I just ordered a set of the updated Cummins Rocker Arm Assemblies with the all metal isolators. I had 2 of the plastic retaining rings that had failed at some point that I discovered while installing new Bosch injectors and adjusting value lash. Really unbelievable that Cummins would engineer those things with plastic. I realize that is not ordinary plastic but some space age version. Great video as I will be assembling the new Rocker & trunions.
Just found this issue on my 2006 3500 common rail cummins. Crappy design. I would expect more from cummins. 168k miles. Doing injectors, head studs and now replacing with Hamilton cams updated OE style rockers and trunions. Thanks for the great explanation 👍
Thanks for the great video! On my 2006, I am in the process of installing new injectors and new valve seals, at 440k miles for the first time. I change oil, rotella T6 every 5k miles. My trunnions and rockers have less galling than yours, probably half or less of what I can see in the video, and mine are not ganging up either in rotation or pulling the trunnion out. I am going to leave them in for another 100k miles, then install new 6.7 rockers. All that to say, I think the oil must have made the difference.
Thanks for the comment! It could be your frequent oil changes. I can not contest to how frequent the oil was changed before I bought the engine. However it will be changed every 5000 now with a zink additive. Delo and Rotella do not have zink anymore. The new oil like the new diesel with out sulfer is garbage. I hotshots in my fuel and add zink to my oil. Once I get a few thousand miles on this engine I will check the gauling and see how bad it is.
@@TheKcdub1000 I might spend for the hamilton kit that comes with rocker arms, dlc coated trunnions, pedestals and studs. Also wanted to install some top hat style valve seals while I had things apart.
@@TheKcdub1000 They do have one grove machined on each side on the bottom perpendicular to the circumference groove attempting to drive some oil into that pressure point between the lower rocker arm pivot and the trunnion. Apparently that's not enough because most aftermarket trunnions have 3 grooves machined on the bottom....kinda like yours!
@@TheKcdub1000 and I agree on poor oil quality. I've used shell rotella t6 since new but I'm second guessing if it's as good as they claim. I'm gonna switch to Amsoil now. Either way, aftermarket trunnions are in my future.
@@4wdiesels Ok wow. Good to know. I think there are some after market ones with only 1 oil gruve in them. But they are hard coated. And that might be the key. Im not sure. I hope mine will work with just the added oil. I am going to run Delo oil with a zink additive in my new engine and see how it goes. It has 103lb valve springs so it will defintly make that area even worse. And be a good test. You should be good to go with a aftermarket set and ams oil i would think. I just wonder how much of the ware is from shitty new age oil or is it a design flaw. Or a little of both..
Thank you for the recommendation. That may help in removing some of the gauling. If you don't go with the sandpaper method. But what they really need is a surface hardening treatment. They polish up to a mirror finish when in use..
Good video mine is making a almost valve tap or lifter type noise do you think wear could cause that? They are pretty worn the rocker arms them selfs look pretty wiped. Just did a cam lifter push rods and valve springs from Hamilton thinking it was the cam but it doesn’t look hateful honestly.
Thank you. Its hard to say. I have a ticking noise in my engine around the tappit cover. I can't tell if its the injectors popping or a rod knock. Damn Cummins makes so much noise its hard to tell. Haha. You can use a stethoscope and try and pin point it. When you had the valve springs and push rods out did the rocker arms feel stiff and crusty when rotaing them? Or did they move free?
@@ajkemer The valve train is fairly noisy in its self with the large valve lash. Makes for a constant ticking noise near the valve cover. I would maybe look at the valve train with the valve cover off when the engine is running and see if you see any thing not rite.
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I just ordered a set of the updated Cummins Rocker Arm Assemblies with the all metal isolators. I had 2 of the plastic retaining rings that had failed at some point that I discovered while installing new Bosch injectors and adjusting value lash. Really unbelievable that Cummins would engineer those things with plastic. I realize that is not ordinary plastic but some space age version. Great video as I will be assembling the new Rocker & trunions.
Thanks man! Bummer to hear Cummins put plastic in the valve train. What year is your truck?
2005 I bought it new Oct 2005, 166k on the clock. Been a great truck.
Just found this issue on my 2006 3500 common rail cummins. Crappy design. I would expect more from cummins. 168k miles. Doing injectors, head studs and now replacing with Hamilton cams updated OE style rockers and trunions. Thanks for the great explanation 👍
I would have to agree. Not the best design. And you are welcome!
Thanks for the great video!
On my 2006, I am in the process of installing new injectors and new valve seals, at 440k miles for the first time. I change oil, rotella T6 every 5k miles. My trunnions and rockers have less galling than yours, probably half or less of what I can see in the video, and mine are not ganging up either in rotation or pulling the trunnion out. I am going to leave them in for another 100k miles, then install new 6.7 rockers. All that to say, I think the oil must have made the difference.
Thanks for the comment! It could be your frequent oil changes. I can not contest to how frequent the oil was changed before I bought the engine. However it will be changed every 5000 now with a zink additive. Delo and Rotella do not have zink anymore. The new oil like the new diesel with out sulfer is garbage. I hotshots in my fuel and add zink to my oil. Once I get a few thousand miles on this engine I will check the gauling and see how bad it is.
Good Idea with maching in the the grooves for more oil
Thank you. However it wasn't really my idea. I saw what the aftermarket world was doing and did my own take on their design.
@@TheKcdub1000 I might spend for the hamilton kit that comes with rocker arms, dlc coated trunnions, pedestals and studs. Also wanted to install some top hat style valve seals while I had things apart.
@@jamesregan6308 can't go wrong there. Just make sure your head is machined for top hat style seals before you buy them. I made that mistake.
I just did head studs on my '19 6.7 with 27k miles and my trunnions already show heavy wear!
Dang. 2019? Did yours have the groves machined in them? I thought they changed the design on the new ones. The oil now a days must be getting bad!
@@TheKcdub1000 They do have one grove machined on each side on the bottom perpendicular to the circumference groove attempting to drive some oil into that pressure point between the lower rocker arm pivot and the trunnion. Apparently that's not enough because most aftermarket trunnions have 3 grooves machined on the bottom....kinda like yours!
@@TheKcdub1000 and I agree on poor oil quality. I've used shell rotella t6 since new but I'm second guessing if it's as good as they claim. I'm gonna switch to Amsoil now. Either way, aftermarket trunnions are in my future.
@@4wdiesels Ok wow. Good to know. I think there are some after market ones with only 1 oil gruve in them. But they are hard coated. And that might be the key. Im not sure. I hope mine will work with just the added oil. I am going to run Delo oil with a zink additive in my new engine and see how it goes. It has 103lb valve springs so it will defintly make that area even worse. And be a good test.
You should be good to go with a aftermarket set and ams oil i would think.
I just wonder how much of the ware is from shitty new age oil or is it a design flaw. Or a little of both..
Maby you could have them micropolished in a tumbler like they do dirtbike transmissions think they call it isotropic finishing
Thank you for the recommendation.
That may help in removing some of the gauling. If you don't go with the sandpaper method. But what they really need is a surface hardening treatment. They polish up to a mirror finish when in use..
Good video mine is making a almost valve tap or lifter type noise do you think wear could cause that? They are pretty worn the rocker arms them selfs look pretty wiped. Just did a cam lifter push rods and valve springs from Hamilton thinking it was the cam but it doesn’t look hateful honestly.
Thank you.
Its hard to say. I have a ticking noise in my engine around the tappit cover. I can't tell if its the injectors popping or a rod knock. Damn Cummins makes so much noise its hard to tell. Haha. You can use a stethoscope and try and pin point it. When you had the valve springs and push rods out did the rocker arms feel stiff and crusty when rotaing them? Or did they move free?
@@TheKcdub1000 seemed to move decent the times I’ve had them out I paid a guy to do that damn cam to much work and bs lol
@@ajkemer The valve train is fairly noisy in its self with the large valve lash. Makes for a constant ticking noise near the valve cover. I would maybe look at the valve train with the valve cover off when the engine is running and see if you see any thing not rite.
How many miles on your truck? I have a 99 too with 195k
The 99 i am rebuilding has around 150k. That what the rocker arms in the video are from.
The one in my truck now has 340k.