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Thanks for the comment! It could be your frequent oil changes. I can not contest to how frequent the oil was changed before I bought the engine. However it will be changed every 5000 now with a zink additive. Delo and Rotella do not have zink anymore. The new oil like the new diesel with out sulfer is garbage. I hotshots in my fuel and add zink to my oil. Once I get a few thousand miles on this engine I will check the gauling and see how bad it is.

Thanks man! Bummer to hear Cummins put plastic in the valve train. What year is your truck?

2005 I bought it new Oct 2005, 166k on the clock. Been a great truck.

Well, I bought it for her. That pistol was sold to my friends dad a long time ago. Me and my wife shoot glock and HK now. No more xd for us.

@@TheKcdub1000 Congrats on the marriage sir. What made you lose interest in the xd? I almost put some money down on one this past Saturday

@@studio619_ Thank you! well when I bought that pistol I was still figuring out what I liked and what worked for us. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the plat form. Just a few things I personally didn't like. The grip safty The loaded chamber indicator on back of slide. Much more completed trigger mechanism than a glock. Lack of aftermarket parts at the time. I bought the xd and a glock 35 and ended up liking the glock much better and so much easier to work on.

@@TheKcdub1000 The gun clerk recommended the glock 34 since they were out of stock in the xd 9 tactical... I like those too. Thanks for the insight.

Dang. 2019? Did yours have the groves machined in them? I thought they changed the design on the new ones. The oil now a days must be getting bad!

@@TheKcdub1000 They do have one grove machined on each side on the bottom perpendicular to the circumference groove attempting to drive some oil into that pressure point between the lower rocker arm pivot and the trunnion. Apparently that's not enough because most aftermarket trunnions have 3 grooves machined on the bottom....kinda like yours!

@@TheKcdub1000 and I agree on poor oil quality. I've used shell rotella t6 since new but I'm second guessing if it's as good as they claim. I'm gonna switch to Amsoil now. Either way, aftermarket trunnions are in my future.

@@4wdiesels Ok wow. Good to know. I think there are some after market ones with only 1 oil gruve in them. But they are hard coated. And that might be the key. Im not sure. I hope mine will work with just the added oil. I am going to run Delo oil with a zink additive in my new engine and see how it goes. It has 103lb valve springs so it will defintly make that area even worse. And be a good test. You should be good to go with a aftermarket set and ams oil i would think. I just wonder how much of the ware is from shitty new age oil or is it a design flaw. Or a little of both..

Thanks! It dose much better now.

I would have to agree. Not the best design. And you are welcome!

The 99 i am rebuilding has around 150k. That what the rocker arms in the video are from. The one in my truck now has 340k.

Thank you for the recommendation. That may help in removing some of the gauling. If you don't go with the sandpaper method. But what they really need is a surface hardening treatment. They polish up to a mirror finish when in use..

Thank you. However it wasn't really my idea. I saw what the aftermarket world was doing and did my own take on their design.

@@TheKcdub1000 I might spend for the hamilton kit that comes with rocker arms, dlc coated trunnions, pedestals and studs. Also wanted to install some top hat style valve seals while I had things apart.

@@jamesregan6308 can't go wrong there. Just make sure your head is machined for top hat style seals before you buy them. I made that mistake.

Thank you. Its hard to say. I have a ticking noise in my engine around the tappit cover. I can't tell if its the injectors popping or a rod knock. Damn Cummins makes so much noise its hard to tell. Haha. You can use a stethoscope and try and pin point it. When you had the valve springs and push rods out did the rocker arms feel stiff and crusty when rotaing them? Or did they move free?

@@TheKcdub1000 seemed to move decent the times I’ve had them out I paid a guy to do that damn cam to much work and bs lol

@@ajkemer The valve train is fairly noisy in its self with the large valve lash. Makes for a constant ticking noise near the valve cover. I would maybe look at the valve train with the valve cover off when the engine is running and see if you see any thing not rite.

I believe when I did this video I still had a Super B. I now am running a sxe363.

sangat bagus, echo membuat gergaji yang bagus.

Oh. Not impressed huh. Like I really give a shit. Haha. I have other videos of it cutting hard wood. It woops any sthil and husky ass in the same cc and about half the price.. So I'm impressed.

@@TheKcdub1000 im not dogging the saw. I use one for firewood cutting and love it but without some video or picture evidence of a port job and a comparison cut against a stocker it seem to cut the same as any ol Timberwolf i really ment no offense homie.

@@k-techcowboy4260 well when you start off the conversation with not impressed then expect that type of response. If you can't see or hear the differance in my saw vs a stock one in any other video then you don't know saws well enough to tell the differance any how. And no a stock one will not cut that green sappy pine nearly as fast as that saw. Check out how it cuts the oak in my other video if you even care. And I did the port job my self. So if proof is needed, I got it.

Glad it helped you out.

No I have not but that would be a worth while conversion. As I've herd the standard sprocket gets eaten up pretty quick. Mine is doing fine but I don't run the saw much.

But the high compreshion coupled with the safty chain is impressive.Even for a douche bag .

If you are asking will this cut what a 661 will cut, then no. It would not be a good back up. The 661 is 90cc vs the cs590 at 60cc. A better back up would be a cs7310 or cs800p. The 590 is a awesome saw for 60cc though. It would make a great addition to a 661 for the smaller stuff.

I need a cheap saw to replace the husky which is a 60cc , the 661 I'll run a 24" and a 36" when I get it . Just wondering if it was worth getting it to cut with every day is worth it or should I save for the stihl.

@@johnymartin5411 the cs 590, if left stock will out last every tool in your shed. If properly taken care of of corse. They don't have crazy power out of the box but will run forever. Of corse you can port it and make it a beast. But the life of the saw will be shortened. I recomend the cs 620. Its a ripper rite out of the box but its a little more money than the 590.

Thanks , the hope is I only use it a bit on crew make the money for the stihl , then "retire" it to home use.

Honestly I have the 590 and with a simple muffler mod and tossing the limiter caps on the carb, you can open it up and it's perfect for a 24" bar all day. Had mine since 2015 and have ran through 4 bars over the years and hundreds of chains. Probably ran 100 gallons of fuel through and that's just a guess. Beat it death, dropped it out of trees, left it in the rain and snow, left old fuel in one entire winter and it's never failed to start, never failed to cut, and always has the same power without ever needing to tune the carb. I've had husky, stihl, redmax, you name it. In the price range you can't beat this saw and will be impressed for the dollar amount. I do also think the 620 out of the box is a better saw, but not for the extra power alone, the aluminum wrap and full wrap options are awesome. Also the dual felling spikes are a must if you get the 590. Helps a lot with awkward cuts and handling in thick flakey bark. I have a video cutting a huge oak on my RUclips channel and it's a perfect saw for bucking anything a 24 inch bar will cut. Also in addition the 620 does come with a rim sprocket which I like for ease of maintenance. I would consider the 620.

You cut the base off the cylinder. I made a pop up piston so I could drop the jug even further. Problem is when you lower your cylinder you change the port timing. That needs to be adjusted back up.

@@TheKcdub1000 Thank you for the reply I kind of guessed that but i was not sure. I love chainsaws i just wish i had more wood to cut so i could buy bigger ones.

@@viperstrike3827 your welcome. If you want a big saw, buy one. You only live once! They are addicting arnt they?

Acabo de ver tu pregunta,si quieres aumentar compresión,tiene que cortar el cilindro en la parte de abajo donde asienta con el mono lock tal ves 1.5mm es suficiente.y si pules los puertos será suficiente,no aumentes mucho la compresión para no tener problemas de calentamiento,tmbn tienes que modificar o abrir el muffle con eso vas a sentir la diferencia. Claro! Si no la quieres para competencia. Saludos.

Thanks! Yeah I love how it sounds.

I heard somewhere that the cs800p is no longer available. is that true?

@@viperstrike3827If it still is I would imagine it won't be for long now that the 73cc saw is out. That was meant to replace the 800/8000 series.

@@TheKcdub1000 Thank you for the reply

@@viperstrike3827 you are welcome. Check out my cs800 (finished) video. The saw was not done in this video. I bumped compression up even more and it sounds even better.

No problems no complaints. That set up works very well. Fits the slide nicely.

Haha! No its a d handle off a sthil 460. Believe me with all the extra compression its nice to have.

I believe you can take the cylinder and piston from a 800p and put it on. But not just the piston. The piston in the 8002 is a flat top where the 800p is domed. And the 800p cylinder is a quad port and the 8002 is a twin port. If you want more power you are going to have to port it.

Same here

Do it, lots of gains to be had in this saw.

@jon dough a muff modd and a tune will help out alot. But when you add compression and open up the ports to let the engine breathe. It makes a big differance.

I know. Poor log.

It has the 620 unlimited coil on it. Also has a hda 191 main jet in the carb so it has much more total fuel now than the 620 carb has. The 620 carb i think will flow a little more air than mine though.

Run it stock then do a muffler mod and retune and you will be blown away by the gain just from that. The 590 has lots of room for port work gains. The 620 is a ripper stock but you can make your 590 out run a 620 with port work.

happy with the 590 ? .. i have one in box in garage contiplating returning it ND getting 620p

@@demolaj1 yeah, it did not disappoint. An absolute beast compared to my ms250 and leaves my buddy's Farm Boss in the dust. I ordered from sawsuppliers with a 24" bar. Super easy to start and gets put to use for hours at a time with no problems Only thing I've added were the outer dogs. There's been a couple times I wished it had the full wrap handle doing stump work, but it chews through everything I've thrown at it and never once felt underpowered.... but I'm just feeding fireplaces and doing property work with it. If you can swing the 620p wrap, go for it. I don't think you'll regret the Timberwolf after putting it to work though.

@@demolaj1 I should edit to add I've thrown the chain a couple times, something the spur sprocket of the 620p would prevent. If you watch the Chainsaw Shack video named "Echo 620p the good, the bad, and the ugly" at 1:52 there's a very generous discount code that worked on my 590 24", $360 shipped to my door. 620p could be had for a real good price too

@@Jeremy_810 yes but are they rebuilt / refurbs ? how do you know if getting a original ?

Thank you. The 590 ports very well. There are significant gains to be had when done correctly. Check out my 590 video and then go watch a video of a stock one. Big difference. The 590 stock is not bad but there is a lot of room for power gains in the cylinder. Just keep in mind when you increase compression you put more strain on everything. Makes alot of torque but hard on the saw.

Well thank you!

There are a few videos on you tube that can give you tips. But I learned most of it from reading the threads on porting from arborist site forum and the OPE forum.

Hello. I believe what happened with mine is that at my work my truck gets really dusty. I work at a particle board plant. And I used a fire hose to spray my truck off after work that morning. I think I got something wet that should not have gotten wet. The code had not returned since. As far as the 5 volts, yes you should have around 5 volt at the supply. The map essentially has that voltage to use to send the signal through the signal wire. So the more boost the higher the voltage (up to 5 volt) gets sent to the computer for evaluation from the map. I have read to not use after market map sensors and to stick with a cummins one. Try a factory one and if it still dose it I would check all wires. 5volt supply, ground, and signal. Its not to bad you just need a pin out for the ecm.

@@TheKcdub1000 I honestly knew better than to buy aftermarket but it was in stock 5 min from home so I took the gamble. I'm hoping that's my issue. I'm going to check the signal and ground wires tomorrow as well. Thanks for the quick reply!

@@MikeDaley507 hey your welcome. I hope you get it all sorted out!

Mike Daley hey did you ever figure this out I got an aftermarket online and the truck worked for just a little now it’s in limo mode again. No sputtering or anything just absolutely no power

@@snyderkurtis I swapped mine to OEM and all was good since. It was still doing it once in a while at the top of 2nd gear (I just 5 speed swapped my truck) and realized it started doing it once I hooked up the clutch safety switch and removed my temporary grounded neutral safety wire. Once I grounded the wire again, it ran flawlessly. it's doing that because I never swapped out the PCM with one from a factory 5 speed truck

Yeah it sounds flat nasty now. Haha.

Yeah she cuts real good now. Night and day from a stocker. Yes I did all the work myself. I have not had issues with dust getting in the air box and I have my lid drilled wide open. I get dust On top of the filter of course but not in side. Make sure your plug for the carb screws is completly sealed. If not, it will let dust in. Make sure from the inside of the box that that plug is all the way in. That is the only way dust should be able to enter. You can put a thin layer of grease on the rubber around the filter to get that to seal better to. You shouldn't need to but maybe you got a funky filter. Or something.

Thats how she likes it.

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the echo.and there customer support. These arnt to complicated. You can probably fix it your self. You shouldn't have to though I know. Take a look at the cylinder. If it's not all scored up then check for spark. If you got spark then It's probably a carb problem. I'm glad you like the channel. 👍

Sucks to hear that i guess i got lucky too I picked one up for 370$ at the flea market several months ago she's been working great but I still haven't ported it though..Gonna put a 32in bar on it.

Oh no, a chain tension nazi! Haha. JK. That's how she likes her chain. I dont know. I tighten it up and it goes right back like that? She's a rascal. After port and polish and everything else I did to the the saw is night and day difference from what it was stock. If I left it stock i would probably send it down the road and go get a 372 or a 395. The 800 just isnt impressive in stock form. It dose seem to have potential.

TheKcdub1000 not exactly, but I love your humor. I grew up and live in a logging/milling town and that’s what I’m basing my knowledge on. I’ve found that a longer bar is much more likely to throw the chain. All of that being said, I’m going to let my 800p have a couple more tanks of gas before I start messing with it in any way but you bring up some valuable knowledge. Thanks for your time.

@@outdoorfrenzy yeah I'm just messin with ya. I'm setting a bad example running my chain like that. I know. Rite on👍 dig into it. You wont regret it. I'm not sure what your compression is. But mine was a measly 120psi brand new. Bumping that up helped quite a bit.

TheKcdub1000 no worries! I haven’t even done a compression test on any of my Echo power equipment. I have a CS-490 and a PPT-2620 as well. They work well for the basic consumer out of the box but if you need a little more, than I can see where a port and polish, muffler mod and retune would be wonderful. I’ve only got about five acres of mixed hardwood and conifer woods to deal with so I don’t use them every day.

Thanks. She cuts now!

It's a 32 inch bar.

@@TheKcdub1000 nice ! I saw one at the flea market for 450$ but im sure i can convince them to sell it to me for 375$

@@jdp8944 not bad if it's in good condition. If not a new piston and cylinder is around 200.00.

@@TheKcdub1000 ended up getting it for 370 lol been running pretty good ill most likely port it soon...it came with a 24in bar and chain but I'm gonna put a 32 on it as well.

@@TheKcdub1000 I just bought the kit for 146.00 if you use the kit number. 50005321. That was Echo parts online out of Florida. Not bad for a OEM kit. I ran my 8000 a little lean last spring and I'm paying the price. Hopefully everything goes together well as this is my first go at splitting cases and replacing crank bearings. Everything is apart time for assembly to begin. Your saw is definitely pulling wood. That's getting into 660/395 performance levels. Good job!

I have had the saw around a year. I did the engine work a couple months after buying it. I dont have much runtime on the saw as it's so big and needs a big log. But no issues so far. This design is not new its bein around for quite some time. Echos are incredibly reliable. The tend to lean to the side of reliability over performance. And have a great warranty that I voided as soon as I put a grinder to it.

Thank you. I have a 590 that I ported that I love. The 590/600 series is awesome. The 800 is good but needs some work to liven it up.

You can buy cs1201 from ope forum or arboristsite forum

I have the 620 and 2511t as well. Really nice saws, thinking about a 3510. If I was forced to only keep one saw it would be the 620. IMHO that is the best bang for the buck period. I bought a Stihl 462c this fall. It's a nice saw that I'm growing fond of for a variety of reasons. That being said both saws sitting in front of me...I would be happy with either one. The 462 is a little more powerful (13cc's bigger) but it sure doesn't cut twice the cost and then some better. What I really like about the auto tune is I have been cutting at all times of the year lately and at different altitudes + - 1800 feet. The autotune is always crisp without a thought. The reality of that is a tach and screwdriver would have been far cheaper. So many saws so little time! I'm hoping Echo does a fuel injected saw but I don't think that's their target audience. To much cost for to little benifit.

Thank you!

Just picked up the 590 yesterday. Muffler mod is complete - can't wait to get it in some wood!

Are they an other upgrades for this saw like a zip kit other then the muffler mod an carburetor limiter cap removal

Who do you send it to. I dont know anyone in my area that does porting

Ummmmmm there is a video of the saw eating a huge oak log. And since this is a video right AFTER a port and polish and I'm still tuneing/ braking in. But if you want to call it playing. whatever.

@@TheKcdub1000 keep defending it . really could show a better video and not be so sensitive .

@@jakeparker8972 defending what? This was a video for a build thread in a forum. Im not trying to impress any one with this cut video. It was meant to show progress of the saw. The short video I have shows how it cuts when the bar is buried in hard oak. When the saw is done and actually tuned and broke in.

I would be happy to make more videos of the saw.if that's what your trying to say. It's running really well now. She eats.

@@TheKcdub1000 I would like to see a good review of it . at least of it consistently cutting wood. And let us know what type of chain you are running. Thinking about buying one but haven't seen alot of good videos

I quit cutting because there was tension on the log I was cutting. And didn't want to get the bar stuck first thing. Not to mention that was the first real run in a log. On a brand new ported and polished engine. That I had about 18-20 hrs building. I'm not going to hold it pinned on its first cuts. All I was doing was tuning the carb. Not power cutting the log.