Front Load Washer Won't Drain - How to Test the Drain Pump
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- In this video I show you how to test the drain pump on a front load washer that is not draining out the water. At the end of the cycle if your tub is still full of water you may have a bad drain pump.
This how to video will show you how to test the resistance of the motor and check it for power.
Here is a longer video that shows you how to access the pump and clear any obstructions.
• Front Load Washer Repa...
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Хобби
New homeowner. Thanks a ton bill. RIP, you’ve left a great legacy behind.
Loved the video. Right to the point. Didn't spend 20 minutes talking trying to let you know how smart he is. He just jumped right in! Thank you.
so true, agree with what you are saying here. most of the other videos are all about the poster, not the problem. :)
You save my day. Many people show how to test if a drain pump is faulty or not, but did not show how the steps like you did. In your video you showed some simple steps that helped me confirm when I don't know how to use the multimeter. I am sure there are people like me out there who knows nothing about using the multimeter because of the selections that one needs to know how to turn the knob to the correct band. I appreciate your honesty and your knowledge. Thanks again.
thank you so much this video just saved me a huge headache
The other videos I've looked at didn't go any further than testing the resistance of the pump. Mine was OK, so thank you for taking me to the next steps to investigate what the cause of the problem was. You might say I've been left "high and dry" by the previous videos!
Thank You for this vid, Bill, Really helped this ol'' 56 year old out.
I thought my washer pump was bad, had done the resistance test before watching, but u confirmed; I had 14.6 ohms. I couldn't get the on machine spin test because damn cover is full front, unlike video, multi PC. cover. Instead made up my own two prong test plug from an old broken SandCat hand power sander from the 70's. Well, I.D. my connections well with another resistance test, so as not to light a&$ up and trip gfi outlet. I plugged in mocked power cord and SOB if the pump didn't start spinning/vibrating like in your video. U can feel the torque just from holding in place on floor with your shoe. Cleaned hoses putting back together and hoping it'll work. Thanks again, Bill, really did well for us out here.
Best testing for the drain problem that I've found. Good job
You explain things very well and you do not miss important points . Thanks
Thanks for your clear explanation. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Bill!
Your videos are amazing! Pleasee, Pleassseee keep going with them!
Concise and informative. Thanks!
WOW. I LOVE YOU PEOPLE WHO SHARE YOUR AMAZING INSTRUCTIONS TO WOMEN WHO NEED HELP.
Sandra Woodworth Thanks for Watching!
@@BillNewberry Would a reading of 11.2 an indicator that the pump is going/ gone bad?
@@papii706 did you figure it out?
Thanks Bill for your video. It helped fix my washer with drain issue. I followed your instructions to ensure if the problem with my drain issue was a broken drain pump using a multimeter. It turned out that the pump was fine. Then I looked inside the pump and found a debris inside the pump. After I took the debris out, I put back the drain pump to the washing machine. The pump then functioned properly. I spent $0 to fix my washing machine. Kudos to you Bill!
Reading through the comments, I realized that my experience may be of help.
On the spin (drain) cycle, my drain pump would not kick on and I could not hear the water flowing out. I took the pump out, checked the hoses for clogs, checked the pump for clogs (none), checked the electrical resistance (fine), spun the impeller with my fingers (fine).
Next, I set my multimeter to Volts AC and attached them to the wire leads that normally plug into the pump. Here's where things were wacky - it started at ~25V and quickly decreased to about 10V. Now I'm figuring there's something wrong with the wires. I tested the continuity on the wires all the way from the control board down to the leads. One wire was fine, the other was not. I kept decreasing the distance until I narrowed down the problem to where the wire connected into the actual lead. I took it apart and examined it and found that the wire had frayed.
Interestingly, the drain pump would work sometimes, and I could not figure that out until the machine was open and I could see how much jostling happened in there when it was on. So at times, the wire would get mashed into the lead enough to give it a decent connection and full voltage; other times not.
Good luck!
This is the most helpful bit of information I’ve found after hours of searching. I just wish it had pics lol
Original pump in my LG washer stopped working. No obstructions noted and there was power at proper sequence from board connectors. I removed old pump to physically check continuity and rotational smoothness then I bench ran the pump (operated normally) with 120v applied. I then reset pump harness connections and reinstalled old pump, Old pump worked through one wash then quit again. I removed old and installed a new pump, which to date has worked fine through 7 laundry loads. It would seem my old pump (7 years) had a problem I couldn’t detect with meter or by operational smoothness.
Thank you for the info. This is exactly my problem on my Samsung washer. Again, thanks
I also had a pump that passed the ohms test and spun with 110v. After finally getting a new pump I bench tested and with a wooden dowel I was able to find that the impeller on the old pump was able to be stopped on the shaft though the motor spun. I didn't try to stop the new one very much, but it was clearly a stronger impeller-to-shaft connection. Thanks for the video!
Excellent video, concise well spoken
Thankyou for the video , just diagnosed faulty drain pump with your help 👍
Fantastic!! Great video!!
Thanks Bill, you really saved the day. I was able to determine if I had a faulty pump or not. In my case it was doing I humming sound, like it was stuck. I took it off and connected it back just like you did and started working again. Now I now if I get the same problem in the future, I know what is causing it.😀
Thank you Mr. Newberry. I enjoyed both your videos and you made it possible for me to repair my front load washer.
Denis faubert
Thanks Bill. Really helpful.
Bill thank you! I found out my 1-2 yr old pump wasn’t bad. I you didn’t show how to check the voltage, I wouldn’t have found the broken wire! Back in business!
Thank you for sharing. Very important info. Safe me some greens.
Thank you! This solved our problem.
Very useful video. Thank you bro.
Real good videos, keep going.
Nice video, I learn so much from watching your video.Thank you bro
Great work! Keep up the good job, Bill!
onecrazywheel Thanks!
Thank you sir valuable information
AWESOMENESS!! This is exactly what I wanted to know!! And I just saved over $150!! Thank you for your video & time!! Laurie from Michigan
+1craftaholic Nice!
@@BillNewberry So 16 ahms 120 volts is supposed to be good? If the pump runs that means there is no issue with the pump?
What could be a possibility if the pump runs but when it starts pumping water it is too weak to get the job done? Will the amps be less or higher? Or will the voltage be less than 120 volts?
@@Movie2Documentary
Should draw about 1.2A when running with water, and less when just spinning in air. Voltage should be about 120V when operating
Excellent vidéo, Thanks a lot !
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber here from Philadelphia PA USA
Super very nice video,thanks.
thanks, for sharing !
Great help thankyou
Great video & instructions... very helpful!! Truly appreciate it!! :-)
Good explanation boos keep it up
thank you i aprecciate the information
Great video! It was very helpful for me to troubleshoot my issue. I actually checked my trap, came out clean. Then I checked the drain pump, it tested fine around 160 ohms and was able to run when connected. So I checked the boot and found a little bit of hair/lint caught up near the ball. Nothing seem to fix the issue. In a last ditch effort, I purchased a new drain pump from Amazon for $25, and it works!!!
Jeremy Harris WOW! Have prices really changed that much? I recently went to Amazon, Ebay, and more to look for a drain pump and none with my part # was less than $65-75 and more. And that was before shipping. I just can't see paying that for one since my set is fairly old. I know they say not to buy used parts because you don't know what you're getting or you just get someone else's problems, but right now, that may be my only option! I wish I could find one as reasonable as you got yours!
Hi Bill,
I have watched sooo many diy vids on front load washer repair that my eyeballs can't take any more! Fortunately, I ran across yours a while back and saved a couple to my playlist. Your vids are some of few that actually break things down to my level(average consumer) so that I can understand and follow directions. You are very thorough, clear, and precise. I have taken my electrolux front load apart, well the top off, etc. to get to my drain pump. I've cleaned the filter, which wasn't bad, and have removed the pump, tested the impellar, which seems to be good. Then I did the multimeter test and it showed 0.00 on the readings. However, my "ol man" rigged a power cord up and connected it to see if it would do anything and it actually ran! I don't see how since the prongs did not register on the meter?? But the impeller spun, and the motor hummed! So, now it's still broken down because I don't know what to do next! I am at a stand still! Help!! Do I order a new drain pump or see if this one will still work? I think before putting it all back together, I will do the test where you plugged it back in and turned on the machine to see if it would drain. Yes, well I answered my own question!!! Ha! Oh, and one more thing, is there another brand that may be compatible with the electrolux that I can take one out of to use in mine?? As long as I know for sure it works? Thank You in advance!! And please read this book and give me a tip or two!
Bill has passed away. We help each other on this forum when we can. He still has people discovering his legacy. He was fantastic.
THANK YOU SIR
great video! my one i found the drain motor faulty by searching where the tak tak tak sound came from :-)
Thanks a lot!
good vid, bill...
I removed and rinsed my GE washer water pump few times, put it back on, and is working now just fine (it was not spinning nor draining), so I saved some money
EXCELENTE, DIOS BENDIGA A TU FAMILIA . GRACIAS POR EL APORTE
THX U!, Question though: may I reduce the pump voltage so I can control the outgoing flow to the drain pipe?
Thank you so much, that's the filter pump, my washing machine has two pumps, I suppose the second it's the drain pump. Should I test the secondary the same way?
Keep on the good work
Thanks
Hello...nice work on the vid. I've got a top loading Maytag that will now only pump in. No other cycles seem to work. Sometimes I can here a faint humm after it fills up. Any ideas what to check? Lid sensor and capacitor have tested good. Thanks
Thanks for the videos! I have an Armana washer thats not draining. I tested the pump as you instructed in this video and that read around 14 Ohms, so I assume the pump is fine. I then tested the plug that goes to the drain pump and its reading around 12 volts, so this must be where my problem arises. During the cycle before the code "ND" comes up, I hear the sound of 2 clicks. I'm thinking maybe its a problem with the motherboard? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!
Thanks for this post but have question: my frigidaire front load washer does not fast spin and does not drain the water. I have checked the trap and cleaned it and my washer worked for couple weeks then stoped. I have checked the water pump using this information all is good except in first test my ohms only 14 but other test are perfect. Do think could be pump or I was thinking the door latch.
Mine had good resistance and the motor had a proper ratchet type spin. I ordered a new pump and then decided to tear the old one apart. If you pry up the fan blade part with a tiny screw driver, it will just pop out...it's magnetically held in place. Mine was filled with gunk. If I had known you can just pop the blades out and clean it, it would have saved me 50 bucks.
Awesome
Thanks, Bill! I will check that. I have a board that quit and need to see if that was the culprit before putting a new board in my Kenmore elite (LG). The main resistor next to the board fuse fried and one of the IC's exploded. I replaced the IC (ordering the zener diode and resistor for that now) and then found the bad resistor. I can't read the bands because it's so charred. The closest board I have found is a LG Washer Control Board EAX61336625 |BK99. Any idea which resistor this one takes? it's in a heat shield tube next to the fuse.120V up here.
Bill, Thanks a lot for the video. AC Voltage to the (new) pump is 13v during agitation then only jumps to 24v on what I think is drain cycle. Is the timer the problem? Not worth the fix? TYVM if you can respond.
I'm only getting 26-32vAC. What would I look at replacing, the controller? Or is there another part that I can test first?
Bill Ihave a question about this video. Is the Impeller supposed to spin freely on this drain pump motor or does It have some resistance. I checked the one on my Amana and It has some resistance and wasn't sure.
Bill, can you advise how I might run a diagnostic mode on my Amana front load washer? My machine is not draining during a cycle. I know the pump works as it has run inconsistently on a spin only cycle. It will not turn on and after the initial wash cycle.
my pump 120v 70a test out at 15 ohms, is that close enough or does it have to be 16, is there a range of goodness ? thanks
Hi Bill when my machine goes to pump out there is an electrical flash from the area of the pump and the RCD trips out. There is obviously something wrong. Any tips?
Hi, Bill what if there is no power going to the pump? Is it on the Controller problem or Lid Switch?
Hi Bill when you connected the drain pump did you shut off the water supply?
Hello, my front door washing machine drain pump run without laod (makes griding noise) however, when i want to drain water through it, it won't run at all. Do you think the pump is faulty ?
Thanks. 120 to plug and motor good. Impellers...not so much :)
Would it hurt motor if it was hooked directly to household current. I do not have the option to turn machine directly to drain spin mode.
Great video. Trouble shot the machine. All it took was my wife's Bobby pin to be hitting the impeller of the drain pump and it was down. Removed it, all is well
I have a whirlpool cabrio platinum washer W2W8240YW0. It does not fill water or work when start. It stops in automatic diagnostics and gives F32 error but works in manual diagnostic till C8 and hang until there until you move dialer to some other setting. I cheked the inlet pump it is clean and in continuity test with multimeter gives around 1360 ohms. I also checked with drainage pump aa it is giving F32 error, mechanical it looks great and no debris was found in site pump or drain pipe but gives only 16 ohms when check with multimeter while in this videos it is shows the same as your some other videos shows as 160 ohms for correct one. Is my drainage pump bad as this is not showing the reading as per the other video? what are the other things that I can check to diagnose? Your response will be highly appreciated.
How do you know what the ohms reading is supposed to be?
Nice investigation!
Only suggestion that you would have moved or held the drain pump while it was operating to see what it sounds like without the extra vibrations.
Hi Bill
Something weird is happening with my Kenmore 706 front loader. Initially it stopped with an Error code of OE. I cleaned the drain filter , which had some gunk on it, cleaned the housing and put things back together. the washer seemed to work. On the next cycle the control timer was stopped at 17 minutes just as the spin cycle was suppose to start. I reset back to spin and it started.
I originally thought it was the drain pump but it seems to work ok, then I thought it may be the drum motor but the works ok. I wonder if the drain motor is the culprit and is inter mitten.
Can the problem also be the water sensor switch, or a faulty controller.. What would you suggest I do to narrow down the problem.
Great vid Bill. I ran the first two tests and found the motor tested good but it is not getting any volts when I turn it to spin. What should I check next to isolate problem?
ty
What did you do @ryanwarren88 ???
Does the washer have to be fully assembled to check for 120 at the connector? I have mine taken apart so it throws a door lock error when I start a cycle and the meter reads 1.5 volts.
Mine is getting 150v at the pump does that mean my control board is bad... can I splice in something to lower it or regulate it back down to 120v...
Working on my washer and I have 120v on the pump plug, while it's unplugged from the pump (no matter the position of the washing machine dial) and 19ohms on the pump it's self. When I plug the wire back into the pump the 120v stops. And when I put the washer in spin there is still no voltage on the plug. The plug only has voltage unplugged and has the 120v no matter what the washer dial is on...
I want to warn people. I have two identical pumps. Both have a reading of about 15 ohms. The bad one is 15.6 and the good one is 15.5. They both turn on, but the bad one shakes back and forth while the good one spins as it should. I highly recommend giving it power and seeing how it performs.
On mine the drain pump got locked up by some kind of gravel substance so it would just hum when it was supposed to drain. Since I was able to verify the 120 volt both with a meter after disconnecting the harness connector and with a NCV tester I just pulled the pump off and rotated the impeller enough to clear it and tapped it on a towel so all the bits dropped out while it was spinning. Put it all back and it's all working fine again with no parts replacements.
Thanks. I have tried the resistance test, but every time my meter gives a different Ohms reading, each one very different from the last. Does that mean my pump is broken?
Did u figure it out? I know it has been 5 yrs but the pumps havent changed! Care to share?
The Maytag Neptune MAH6700 washer I have doesn't show the 120 volt at the drain pump plug when I start the washer in SPIN cycle; however, I can get into service mode and activate drain pump and see the 120 volt. Any idea where the problem might be? Obvious drain pump itself is out of scope (I have replaced it anyway - wish I see your vid first!)
Thanks for the video. I just found it, Very clear and to the point. I have a Maytag for an F21 code...drain issue. sigh. Checked the pump. It's resistance isn't stable. Swings all over the place then goes OL or settles at about 12 ohm. Is 16 the magic number?
I would also like to know this.
Been testing mine, doesn’t drain, took it apart and I see the propeller want to spin but doesn’t unless I give it a kickstart. Any way to save them? Tried cleaning it but still only nudges.
will it spin if the door switch is bad? mine spins, but for only for a second or 2 the way you did it.
If I am not getting power to the pump, does that indicate that I need to replace the circuit board? Thank you for a great video.
michael Ryan
hi there. Did you get right with your machine. I'm also having the same problem
What if it doesn’t get the 120volts?
I have a Samsung VTR Front loader wash machine. When I run the rinse cycle, I can see some of the water drain out, but not all. So the drain motor seems to work. Also in the spin cycle it's a crap shot as to the water drain pump activating. I checked for any clogs and there are none. When I run the Test Mode (Spin/Silercare/Power) and hit for the drain pump test, it fails.
But the pump works. is it the controller board? any ideas?
Thank in advance
BTW - great video, great explanation and great information and instructions.
Shai Levit this is my exact scenario. Did you ever find a remedy?
I just got 13 ohms is that good or bad how much resistance should I have?
What are you testing on the motor and what’s it called I got 15 is that good?
Bill, experts... any idea how to make this puppy go thru the drain-spin cycle? I have door latch sensor disconnected, water shut off, pump motor connected, and played around but do not know how to make it power the drain motor...probably some sort of a safety lock out that sees door is not shut and no water? thks (help anyone....)
Great video. My pump is receiving 105V. It runs intermittently. Is 105V within range? Its rated for 120V. Thank you. When it doesn't run, it just sputters and barely spins. I haven't been able to check the voltage while its not working; been waiting for it to stop working again.
I want to fit New Pump but forget about connections basically only 2 thimble wires to plug in pump motor connections , but which one to on what side forget.
Not sure if you'll answer but worth a shot. I pulled my pump out and it spins when I turned it on to test it but it won't pump water after I put it back together. I can hear ot running. Could the impeller be bad? Suggestions! Thanks.
Late reply, but Check the pump if it displaces water externally from the machine
Hey bill so I have a washing machine and only getting 118v to the drain pump. Tried replacing with new pump but still won’t turn on. Does it have to have over 120v? To kick on? That 2 volts Lower will cause it to not turn on? If so what could be the cause of that voltage not going to 120? I saw on ur video soon as u turn yours on you get 117-118v also then hear a click then goes to 120v.
115-125 V at full load is all well within the range for a typical 120V American voltage supply. The pump won't notice the difference at all.
So what if you only have 60 volts at the pump connectors?
Would it mean that the pump is bad when you tested the pump by starting the machine in the pump only spend a couple seconds stops spend a couple seconds stops yours consistently spun
Mine checks out, just makes a loud noise... They don't make them anymore. Any fixes?
So I have to ask is the appliance "plugged in" when you run the tests? For ex when testing the pump to watch it spin, you said plug it in and start.
Janine Mello Yeah, it is plugged in when I do that. Don't hand on to the pump with wet hands, be careful and you'll be fine.
Thanks for Watching!
Hello Bill, I have a samsung front loader washer. Replaced the pump but still not working. There is power to the pump could this mean my control board is bad. How can I test before buying the board? Thanks
Hi Etran did you resolve tge issue and change the controller?
Question: i did the first two tests in this video and everything tested fine. Then I did the last test and watched the impeller spin. It spins but there is quite amount of clicking noise that appears to come from behind the impeller. Could this indicate that it is a bad pump or a pump that is not operating at its highest potential? Even though electronically it tested fine? TIA
Exact same question here. Too bad someone hasn't posted you an answer. I'm buying a new pump and hope that fixes the issue.
Andrea Clark I ran the same test. However, on the last test my drain pump propeller spins for 5 seconds then stops. It is not a continuous spin, does the mean my pump is bad? Please advice. TIA
Yes, my experience was the old pump ran out of the machine but not as fast or smooth as the new pump. The new pump drained the water and the old pump didn't.
My Electrolux / Frigidaire had this behaviour too. Old pump measured about 9.5 Ohms resistance and turned, but sounded loud and grinding. New pump was 17 Ohms, much quieter and pumps properly. Recommend some household hydrogen peroxide solution to help clean out the black gunk in the boot and drain hose wile you've got everything apart. This is the stuff that always appears in my bathroom drains. I think it's a fungal mat.
I'm getting a reading of 14.0 when I check for continuity. Would that alone mean my pump is bad, considering you had 16.0? (LG Direct )
probably not, connect the motor to 120 from the wall, out of the machine. if works, then measure voltage from washer pump wires, when on the spin/drain cycle.....
Bill, Have a Kenmore (796.40272900 model) front load, found clothes wet after wash. Got to the pump, showed zero resistance so ordered a new motor. New motor showed zero resistance also, so I first plugged the old motor back to 110 V and it appears to run ok. Checked the new motor and it also runs fine. I thought zero resistance means internal short and it should not run...what gives? going to check the voltage coming into motor, not sure how to get to drain-spin cycle, will have to see if user manual shows how. Thks
can a drain pump pass the resistance test but still get stuck?..mine was humming but not working,I tapped it with a mallet and it started working
take it apart, clean the filter, and those crappy plastic ridged hoses.....