I love your videos. But on a side note, you should definitely do a compilation of the "models" standing around as you talk 😂😂😂 for some reason in ALL the photography videos I watch (not just yours) I seem to always look at them, it's like they don't know what to do during that time 😂😂😂
Hey Matt, Love the videos and your work. Question: if I’m just starting out would you recommend getting a 3 or 6 stop filter first? Looked pretty overcast in your video and you were able to pull off with a 6. Is that the best first buy? Thanks!
I would actually get a Polar Pro 2-5 stop variable ND! But if you do decide to go with a fixed I’d get a 3 stop first. You can use it when it’s overcast too and 6 stop only works if it’s really bright outside. Thank you!
Thanks, this is very good instruction on using ND filters. But realistically, in my situation I don’t have time for all the prep that this takes, eg finding the optimal aperture, taking test shots, etc. I shoot the award ceremonies & group pix after track meets (where I also shoot the races), and the runners aren’t gonna wait around - they’re tired & hungry and I gotta act fast. I barely have enough time to switch-out lenses & power-on my strobe (which I have already set-up earlier). Therefore, I use a polarizer to even-out any skin tones from bright sunlight, and the strobe to help with the shadows, and often have to rely on HSS. I edit quickly in Lightroom to get the photos out same-day. But I realize different photographers have different circumstances.
Hi Matthew- I think I’m gonna try the ND filter again. Haven’t used 1 in awhile. Hoya 6-stop is available at BH Photo. Do you know if that’s a good brand? I don’t see your brand available for 67mm gauge. Thanks again for your videos on this subject!
Question. I understand that you expose the background the way you want. Dark. Approx 1 or 2 stops darker. Then you bring in the light. But how are you determining the output of that flash. Its power output to obtain a proper exposure. It looks like you just eyeball it. That is not reliable for me. Ill view it thru my sony electronic viewfinder or the screen but its hard to know for sure. Id like to meter that flash to know for sure but how are you able to determine the flash output?
I never considered that side of HSS. So if I keep flash power the same and am shooting F5.6 1/2000, then change to F/8 1/1000 the HSS will be more efficient and have a higher output at 1/1000?
Question: about the 12 minute mark, you said you chose to shoot the bat swing at 1/1000 because 1/400 with an ND filter would have too much motion blur. But it's my understanding that as long as your subject is at least 2 stops brighter than the background, the flash duration itself will make it sharp, so even though the shot duration is long, the flash duration is much faster. Am I wrong there?
I don’t know the technical numbers of it other than the flash duration gets slower the higher your power, and I was at full power which would have been 1/280 t.01. That’s like shoot at 1/280 s if I’m not mistaken, which isn’t nearly fast enough to freeze action. That’s why you can’t use flash duration when it’s bright outside during the day. I hope that makes sense…thanks for watching!
@@MattHernandez Yeah my ad600s are 1/200 at full power but does get faster as I drop power. I’ve got some alien bees standard studio strobes, and the flash duration decreases as power increases, so it’s the opposite of speed lights. Anyway, thanks for your vids. I’m hoping to try some similar this spring when it warms up.
@@MattHernandez Hi Matt -- The simple answer for if the flash duration would freeze motion would be if you were able to kill all ambient light. The second more variable component is the fash duration speed, as someone said above, the more power the longer the duration (less freezing action). Love your work. thanks!
@@MattHernandez thank you so much for your response! I've used it to take some team and individual photos as a volunteer at the high school. Came out great. I appreciate your videos tremendously!
I'm curious if you can actually freeze action with flash duration instead of HSS. I've heard a flash set to its lowest power is equivalent to a fast shutter. It's something like this possible outdoors?
I had the same thought. can I use a ND to darken a scene to black outdoors and freeze the motion with a flash? The ND is similar to controlling the ambient light when in studio.
@@GregorySeaton if you’re outside you’ll need to use your shutter speed to freeze the action. Either can be used inside. Check out my video above if you want to understand why in more detail.
My camera allows for a variety of sync speeds to set it at. What would be the reason to set your in-camera sync speed to anything lower than 200? If you set it to 200, then you can still shoot a slower shutter speed. So, why would you set it to say, 1/60?
@@MattHernandez Right, i understand the shutter speed. Im just trying to figure out why there are max sync speed settings that are lower than 200. Like, why would you set your max sync speed to 1/60 in the menu. If you wanted to shoot at that speed, you’d just drop your shutter to that speed.
I wouldn’t use an ND filter for action at all. That was kind of the point of this video, so show that while HSS and ND can both help you underexpose with strobes, HSS is what you need for action because you want a high shutter speed to freeze the fast moving subject. ND causes you to lower you shutter speed as it acts as sunglasses for the lens. And the lower the shutter speed, the most chance of blur. Especially when photographing athletes. I don’t have a CPL filter, but it seems like it cut different wavelengths of light, which reduces haze and glare. It doesn’t cause you to lower you shutter speed though. So I’d say the CPL for sure! For action anyway. Thanks for watching and the feedback!
Could you stack an ND when shooting HSS. I was shooting with the shutter at its highest 1/8000 F4.0 and ISO 100 and the sky was still super bright. I didnt want to go higher on my Fstop to avoid sharpening the image. Adding an ND to a bright day like this, would it work?
Technically yes, but you’d have to have a strobe powerful enough to light up your subject. Average strobes wouldn’t be enough with just 1. You have to have more than one strobe or something pretty powerful.
@@jmo4347 I’d try a 6 stop ND and no HSS. That should do it under the brightest daylight. Reason being, you lose power from your strobe when you shoot HSS. As I just found out on my newest video, you lose more than I thought.
Not related to the subject but, I noticed you switched from Nikon to Sony. When and why? Just curious. Now, related to the video, there are ND filters that fit over the sensor that do not affect the cameras ability to focus. Before all of the HSS lights came out, I shot with PCB Einsteins and an ND filter. However, my D810 had a hard time focusing depending on the situation. I haven't tried the over the sensor filter yet but there are a couple of YT vids talking about them. Have you had any experience with those?
The d800 and 810 weren’t exactly strong with AF so I’m not shocked to hear that. I don’t experience any problems now with Sony. When you get darker, like maybe a 6 stop, it might effect it some but not much if you’re in appropriate conditions.
Thanks for the breakdown Matt! Appreciate you detailing the process!
Any time!
Nice. As you know I’ve asked about this ever since that Sports workshop in Denver about 5 years ago! Great video!
Haha yep you sure have. Did it help?
Thanks Matt! I always enjoy your videos.
Glad you like them!
Thank you for all of the videos
You’re welcome!
Awesome video once again Matt!
Thanks brother!
Next time you Shld talk specs and all of that without the subject behind you lol..
I agree, honestly this video could last 4 minutes, he rambles a lot...
I love your videos. But on a side note, you should definitely do a compilation of the "models" standing around as you talk 😂😂😂 for some reason in ALL the photography videos I watch (not just yours) I seem to always look at them, it's like they don't know what to do during that time 😂😂😂
Hahaha yeah I’ve stopped having them stand there while I talk for obvious reasons. That WOULD be funny! I appreciate the support thanks for watching!
Hey Matt, Love the videos and your work. Question: if I’m just starting out would you recommend getting a 3 or 6 stop filter first? Looked pretty overcast in your video and you were able to pull off with a 6. Is that the best first buy? Thanks!
I would actually get a Polar Pro 2-5 stop variable ND! But if you do decide to go with a fixed I’d get a 3 stop first. You can use it when it’s overcast too and 6 stop only works if it’s really bright outside. Thank you!
Thanks, this is very good instruction on using ND filters. But realistically, in my situation I don’t have time for all the prep that this takes, eg finding the optimal aperture, taking test shots, etc. I shoot the award ceremonies & group pix after track meets (where I also shoot the races), and the runners aren’t gonna wait around - they’re tired & hungry and I gotta act fast. I barely have enough time to switch-out lenses & power-on my strobe (which I have already set-up earlier). Therefore, I use a polarizer to even-out any skin tones from bright sunlight, and the strobe to help with the shadows, and often have to rely on HSS. I edit quickly in Lightroom to get the photos out same-day. But I realize different photographers have different circumstances.
Gotta use what works for you!
Hi Matthew- I think I’m gonna try the ND filter again. Haven’t used 1 in awhile. Hoya 6-stop is available at BH Photo. Do you know if that’s a good brand? I don’t see your brand available for 67mm gauge. Thanks again for your videos on this subject!
I have had good results with Hoya brand filters
@@jerrym8140 Thanks Jerry!
Really helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Question.
I understand that you expose the background the way you want. Dark. Approx 1 or 2 stops darker.
Then you bring in the light.
But how are you determining the output of that flash. Its power output to obtain a proper exposure.
It looks like you just eyeball it. That is not reliable for me. Ill view it thru my sony electronic viewfinder or the screen but its hard to know for sure.
Id like to meter that flash to know for sure but how are you able to determine the flash output?
You nailed it. I just eyeball it!
Great Video
Thanks!
I never considered that side of HSS. So if I keep flash power the same and am shooting F5.6 1/2000, then change to F/8 1/1000 the HSS will be more efficient and have a higher output at 1/1000?
Yes it should! If 1000 will get it done and your f stop is ok then I’d say go for that over a higher SS.
You raised the iso on the last shot, this would affect the flash as well as the ambient....
Question: about the 12 minute mark, you said you chose to shoot the bat swing at 1/1000 because 1/400 with an ND filter would have too much motion blur. But it's my understanding that as long as your subject is at least 2 stops brighter than the background, the flash duration itself will make it sharp, so even though the shot duration is long, the flash duration is much faster. Am I wrong there?
I don’t know the technical numbers of it other than the flash duration gets slower the higher your power, and I was at full power which would have been 1/280 t.01. That’s like shoot at 1/280 s if I’m not mistaken, which isn’t nearly fast enough to freeze action. That’s why you can’t use flash duration when it’s bright outside during the day. I hope that makes sense…thanks for watching!
@@MattHernandez Yeah my ad600s are 1/200 at full power but does get faster as I drop power. I’ve got some alien bees standard studio strobes, and the flash duration decreases as power increases, so it’s the opposite of speed lights.
Anyway, thanks for your vids. I’m hoping to try some similar this spring when it warms up.
Youre welcome! Thanks again for watching.
@@MeetTheBushes
@@MattHernandez Hi Matt -- The simple answer for if the flash duration would freeze motion would be if you were able to kill all ambient light. The second more variable component is the fash duration speed, as someone said above, the more power the longer the duration (less freezing action). Love your work. thanks!
great suff!
Thank you!
Hey what light stands do you use!? Thanks!
amzn.to/3Z3APSg
I'm just starting out with the ND filter. Is a 1-5 stop enough for portraits and a strobe? Indoors it seems like it. Thanks for your videos.
Yes, absolutely
@@MattHernandez thank you so much for your response! I've used it to take some team and individual photos as a volunteer at the high school. Came out great. I appreciate your videos tremendously!
looks like the batter is looking at the camera instead of the imiginary ball
In the thumbnail! No, the ball is there and he’s definitely looking at it lol.
I'm curious if you can actually freeze action with flash duration instead of HSS. I've heard a flash set to its lowest power is equivalent to a fast shutter. It's something like this possible outdoors?
I actually have a video dedicated to that very subject!
High Speed Sync vs. Flash Duration to Freeze Action
ruclips.net/video/OjYfKqt_Z0M/видео.html
@@MattHernandez thank you. I'll check it out! I really enjoy your content. It's helped me a lot
I had the same thought. can I use a ND to darken a scene to black outdoors and freeze the motion with a flash? The ND is similar to controlling the ambient light when in studio.
@@GregorySeaton if you’re outside you’ll need to use your shutter speed to freeze the action. Either can be used inside. Check out my video above if you want to understand why in more detail.
My camera allows for a variety of sync speeds to set it at. What would be the reason to set your in-camera sync speed to anything lower than 200? If you set it to 200, then you can still shoot a slower shutter speed. So, why would you set it to say, 1/60?
If you need the ambient brighter? It really depends on the situation. That slow or a shutter won’t freeze action though so keep that in mind.
@@MattHernandez Right, i understand the shutter speed. Im just trying to figure out why there are max sync speed settings that are lower than 200. Like, why would you set your max sync speed to 1/60 in the menu. If you wanted to shoot at that speed, you’d just drop your shutter to that speed.
Oh ok I wasnt sure what you were asking for…I get it. I honestly have no idea why you’d ever change it. @@onlyfacts4me
@@MattHernandez Right on. I was just curious if there was something I was missing out on. You've got some great work! Thanks for the chat
Would you recommend the ND over CPL for sports action photos?
I wouldn’t use an ND filter for action at all. That was kind of the point of this video, so show that while HSS and ND can both help you underexpose with strobes, HSS is what you need for action because you want a high shutter speed to freeze the fast moving subject. ND causes you to lower you shutter speed as it acts as sunglasses for the lens. And the lower the shutter speed, the most chance of blur. Especially when photographing athletes.
I don’t have a CPL filter, but it seems like it cut different wavelengths of light, which reduces haze and glare. It doesn’t cause you to lower you shutter speed though. So I’d say the CPL for sure! For action anyway. Thanks for watching and the feedback!
Could you stack an ND when shooting HSS. I was shooting with the shutter at its highest 1/8000 F4.0 and ISO 100 and the sky was still super bright. I didnt want to go higher on my Fstop to avoid sharpening the image. Adding an ND to a bright day like this, would it work?
Technically yes, but you’d have to have a strobe powerful enough to light up your subject. Average strobes wouldn’t be enough with just 1. You have to have more than one strobe or something pretty powerful.
@@MattHernandez would an FJ400 be enough?
@@jmo4347 probably not just one if you’re shooting at 1/8000, f4 AND an ND. You’d need 2 I would think.
@@jmo4347 I’d try a 6 stop ND and no HSS. That should do it under the brightest daylight. Reason being, you lose power from your strobe when you shoot HSS. As I just found out on my newest video, you lose more than I thought.
@MattHernandez I have to try it out then. Would you go Variable ND or just buy separate level nds?
Goood info !!! Thanks, but your subject looks so bored in the back 😅loll
Don’t worry I’ve stole filming with them in the shot when I’m talking 🤣
Not related to the subject but, I noticed you switched from Nikon to Sony. When and why? Just curious. Now, related to the video, there are ND filters that fit over the sensor that do not affect the cameras ability to focus. Before all of the HSS lights came out, I shot with PCB Einsteins and an ND filter. However, my D810 had a hard time focusing depending on the situation. I haven't tried the over the sensor filter yet but there are a couple of YT vids talking about them. Have you had any experience with those?
I explained it all on my old podcast. Here’s the episode link!
podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/framed-up/id1564018947?i=1000524511694
The d800 and 810 weren’t exactly strong with AF so I’m not shocked to hear that. I don’t experience any problems now with Sony. When you get darker, like maybe a 6 stop, it might effect it some but not much if you’re in appropriate conditions.
@@MattHernandez have you ever tested the over the sensor ND filters? I listened to the podcast but didn’t hear any discussion of them.
What is the camera strap used in this video 0:59
It’s a Rapid Strap!