The 1/32 Trumpeter Jug moves into part 2 - with a focus on magnets to solve some of the shoddy or poorly thought-out mounting scenarios this kit throws out there.
If you do a metal hole punch, do this and punch out metal smaller than barrel and then instead of a plate with space between gun receiver and gun barrel will look correct AND give the magnetic positive solution YOU have found to this issues for last 60 plus years. Sweet job.
If you use the open cowl flap provided with the kit, it is noticeable your exhaust /intake tubes will be missing off the R-2800. You do get into your magnets, everything looks good
Doog, love these videos man. They are much appreciated. I have a question regarding your birdcage Corsair build if you’re willing to hear it? I’m building one just like it next up. What did you do in regards to decal surface prep? Did you bomb the whole thing in gloss clear first, or just in little patches where the stenciling was to go?
It's been a while and the build pics aren't conclusive - but I imagine I laid down a gloss or semi-gloss since I used Tamiya paint and then did salt - salt leaves stain rings in Tamiya paint so I'd have taken steps to prevent that.
Doogs' Models thanks for the reply. I just did a salt filter on a 1/48 eduard fw190 d9, not because it needed it, but because I was experimenting, and I found the same thing. Admittedly the surface was a tamiya clear, which I then used a mr color filter over the top with levelling thinner, and it did “melt” in a bit I found. It created interesting textures on the surface which highlighted a little more than I wanted to when I ran the panel wash over it all. Nothing disasterous, but enough to warrant pursuing other options. Might try my MRP clear next time or a gunze or something.
Hello Matt, you mentioned in this video that you were still waiting for a new compressor to arrive. My compressor just died today and I’m curious as to which one you chose to go with? Thanks…and I really like your work!
Couple of (possibly dumb) questions.......1 Why not just use styrene circles instead of magnets and just glue in place? 2 The gun access panel is separate and you can see the magnets / metal plate.....could you not have just joined the wings, cleaned up the panel gaps and then glued them to the gun bodies? I have to say though, magnets are neat and I'm already thinking of uses (change in ordnance, removable wings etc).
For 1) I'm assuming you mean the engine? Cowl fits to it and is going to be bare metal vs olive drab for the fuselage. Being able to drop it all in place at the very end will be nice, and magnets make that totally doable. For the guns - I'm closing all the access doors, do once everything is glued and cleaned up, those four leading edge holes are it.
I'm sorry man, but I just don't understand the whole purpose of doing all that with magnets. I could understand having the wings removable with magnetic mounting for shipping purposes, but the engine and gun barrels? I just don't get it. Seems to me a waste of time and money. The Browning M2 .50 caliber machine gun, and most other machine guns) used in aircraft wings typically had non-vented barrel shrouds (sometimes referred to as "blast tubes", indicating their purpose) that stopped the muzzle blast from damaging (i.e. blowing out/off "skin panels" or even the ribs) the aircrafts wings. The shrouds almost never passed more than an inch passed the gun port, because they were, again "typically", covered with cloth or plastic patches to prevent f.o.d. from entering the barrels or freezing cold humid air causing the guns to jam or freeze up. In the cases where the barrel protruded beyond the gun port due to the mounting location of the gun, there was a fabric or rubber "patch" that sealed the barrel to the shroud then another "patch" over the muzzle. Cannons were treated in the same manner.
It's spelled out in part 1, but with the engine, Trumpeter uses a bullshit rickety mounting system. The magnet is cleaner, simpler, stronger and it makes it easier to mount everything up late in the build. With the blast tubes, Trumpeter's engineering forces you to install them before closing the wing and adding the gun shroud. With the amount of cleanup that area needs, not to mention olive drab/neutral gray vs bare metal for the tubes, being able to drop them in late makes everything else in that area a lot less fussy.
Why not use telescoping tubes? Glue a tube into the shrouds that are cut off. Put them together with the inner shroud pieces, line them up and glue the inner shrouds. Once it's dry pull off the outer shrouds and continue. That way nothing can move when you put it back together. As you've shown, the magnets allow the shrouds to move all over the place. Even if you glue them in place, you still have to align them multiple times. With the inner tubes, once you've aligned and glued the inner shrouds once it's done. When you put the outer shrouds in place it will align back the way you had it.
Building the same kit as Doog, agree with the two "bad" areas (engine mounting and fitting cowl; MG mounting and aligning). His solution is beautiful and allows sub-assembly painting and building. My solution involved a ton of CA glue poured into the area, permanent alignment, and the need for a lot more masking... ;)
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Excellent stuff, Matt. I so love solutions like this.
Really digging this series so far.
Excellent thinking outside of the Box!! Just got a Zoukei Mura F-4C because of your review!
Worth all the extra work. They look awesome 👍
Pretty damn slick Matt.
If you do a metal hole punch, do this and punch out metal smaller than barrel and then instead of a plate with space between gun receiver and gun barrel will look correct AND give the magnetic positive solution YOU have found to this issues for last 60 plus years. Sweet job.
Angle of gun is of course harder to do correct and you're choice is best for non open gun bays, still a brilliant idea thank you
Were the blast tubes hollow?
Nicely done!
I liked the bit where you built the model.
All the 1mm magnet vendors on Amazon are about to say "WTF is going on?"
If you use the open cowl flap provided with the kit, it is noticeable your exhaust /intake tubes will be missing off the R-2800. You do get into your magnets, everything looks good
Keeping them closed since I'm not happy with the interior detail on the flaps anyway.
love the build Doog may I ask where did you get the disc magnets
great ideas.... I've bought some magnets today... and some BAMBOO tweezers (I think for asia cooking, but maybe OK)!!
That was a most satisfying "click"
Agreed!
Doog, love these videos man. They are much appreciated. I have a question regarding your birdcage Corsair build if you’re willing to hear it? I’m building one just like it next up. What did you do in regards to decal surface prep? Did you bomb the whole thing in gloss clear first, or just in little patches where the stenciling was to go?
It's been a while and the build pics aren't conclusive - but I imagine I laid down a gloss or semi-gloss since I used Tamiya paint and then did salt - salt leaves stain rings in Tamiya paint so I'd have taken steps to prevent that.
Doogs' Models thanks for the reply. I just did a salt filter on a 1/48 eduard fw190 d9, not because it needed it, but because I was experimenting, and I found the same thing. Admittedly the surface was a tamiya clear, which I then used a mr color filter over the top with levelling thinner, and it did “melt” in a bit I found. It created interesting textures on the surface which highlighted a little more than I wanted to when I ran the panel wash over it all. Nothing disasterous, but enough to warrant pursuing other options. Might try my MRP clear next time or a gunze or something.
Hah, that's cool ! Good job !
What drill bits do you use/recommend?
Hello Matt, you mentioned in this video that you were still waiting for a new compressor to arrive. My compressor just died today and I’m curious as to which one you chose to go with? Thanks…and I really like your work!
It's a no-name compressor (literally) from Spraygunner
Thanks!
Couple of (possibly dumb) questions.......1 Why not just use styrene circles instead of magnets and just glue in place? 2 The gun access panel is separate and you can see the magnets / metal plate.....could you not have just joined the wings, cleaned up the panel gaps and then glued them to the gun bodies? I have to say though, magnets are neat and I'm already thinking of uses (change in ordnance, removable wings etc).
For 1) I'm assuming you mean the engine? Cowl fits to it and is going to be bare metal vs olive drab for the fuselage. Being able to drop it all in place at the very end will be nice, and magnets make that totally doable.
For the guns - I'm closing all the access doors, do once everything is glued and cleaned up, those four leading edge holes are it.
@@DoogsModels Gotcha.....forgot about the cowl from ep1. Closed access panel makes sense too! Must engage brain next time!
Matt why not simply glue the engine in place?
More flexibility later on
You keep doing a lot of internal engineering with magnets, probably time to invest in some non-magnetic tweezers.
For sure
I'm sorry man, but I just don't understand the whole purpose of doing all that with magnets. I could understand having the wings removable with magnetic mounting for shipping purposes, but the engine and gun barrels? I just don't get it. Seems to me a waste of time and money.
The Browning M2 .50 caliber machine gun, and most other machine guns) used in aircraft wings typically had non-vented barrel shrouds (sometimes referred to as "blast tubes", indicating their purpose) that stopped the muzzle blast from damaging (i.e. blowing out/off "skin panels" or even the ribs) the aircrafts wings. The shrouds almost never passed more than an inch passed the gun port, because they were, again "typically", covered with cloth or plastic patches to prevent f.o.d. from entering the barrels or freezing cold humid air causing the guns to jam or freeze up. In the cases where the barrel protruded beyond the gun port due to the mounting location of the gun, there was a fabric or rubber "patch" that sealed the barrel to the shroud then another "patch" over the muzzle. Cannons were treated in the same manner.
It's spelled out in part 1, but with the engine, Trumpeter uses a bullshit rickety mounting system. The magnet is cleaner, simpler, stronger and it makes it easier to mount everything up late in the build.
With the blast tubes, Trumpeter's engineering forces you to install them before closing the wing and adding the gun shroud. With the amount of cleanup that area needs, not to mention olive drab/neutral gray vs bare metal for the tubes, being able to drop them in late makes everything else in that area a lot less fussy.
Doogs' Models, got ya. Makes sense.
Why not use telescoping tubes? Glue a tube into the shrouds that are cut off. Put them together with the inner shroud pieces, line them up and glue the inner shrouds. Once it's dry pull off the outer shrouds and continue. That way nothing can move when you put it back together. As you've shown, the magnets allow the shrouds to move all over the place. Even if you glue them in place, you still have to align them multiple times. With the inner tubes, once you've aligned and glued the inner shrouds once it's done. When you put the outer shrouds in place it will align back the way you had it.
Building the same kit as Doog, agree with the two "bad" areas (engine mounting and fitting cowl; MG mounting and aligning). His solution is beautiful and allows sub-assembly painting and building. My solution involved a ton of CA glue poured into the area, permanent alignment, and the need for a lot more masking... ;)