Set your lazer level and put the unit where its going to be located ( more or less) and wind the legs up to the lazer line. This is much faster then measuring each leg and also works with out of level floors.
I use my systainer dolly to position tall units, place on dolly push in and then wind legs to correct height, remove dolly. I use a cheap IKEA handle jig, costs a few pounds and has all the holes you could need. Just use a sharpie and the jig will almost last forever. I use systainer boxes on the worktop to push wall cupboards into place, adjusting with an air wedge. These tips are great if you are working on your own, but its always best to have another pair of hands, especially with long worktops.
Yes I've fitted few but not for a long time. I bought a load of the old Faktum IKEA units cheaply from their bargain corner as they were about to discontinue them. I had a few promises from the staff there that there would be many more ex-display units coming down to the bargain corner, but they never did. I suspect the staff had first pick of the complete kitchens. So I still have the slightly damp incomplete kitchen in the garage. Missus really mad at me after all this time (can't blame her) and has ordered me to just buy a bloody new complete kitchen or she will get someone in to do it. But suddenly kitchen units cost a fortune. I'm sick of seeing DIY stores advertising a particular run or configuration of units that cost ex amount of money. The one thing I like about IKEA is that they give you prices for individual carcasses for base or wall and then give prices for the doors that fit these carcasses. I don't think their new Metod system is as good as the old Faktum one and they have no service void at the rear. Any ideas my friend.
Instead of using your tape to measure your height of the legs, set your square to your desired height, worked for me for the last 40 years! But good tips your showing.
Me too buddy. Set it and bingo every leg is at the same height before any minor adjustments. Plus the square saves you faffing with a tape measure for loads of marking out. Saves me squinting at the tape measure ever few minutes as well.
What would be the best Dewalt table saw for my lad, as he's just finished his apprenticeship in Kitchen fitting. Out of these 3 choices, which would be the best for him. the 10 inch DWE7492 on the heavy duty roller trolley, the 8inch DWE7485 or the DCS7485T2 54v XR cordless. If the 8inch, would you choose ally trolley or the simple scissor stand. If someone was buying it for you....which would you choose.
@@UbiquitousRomp Depends on where he works. Battery will always be useful in terms of utility if he has the flexvolt batteries to run it. if not, as its for kitchen fitting 8 inch 240v is probably fine to be honest. as a kitchen fitter I would want the battery powered one with a couple Flexvolt 9ah batteries.
@@preddes6522Thanks for replying Predd decided to get him the 240v dw743n flip saw table Tow in one.. He's chuffed. Obviously not a heavy duty as they old elu tables, but they are not to heavy and fairly sturdy without the need of a bulky trolley. I like the look 20v router with the two bases. But am I right in thinking, that's under powered for worktops.? I haven't seen a DW 60w router yet.
It takes 2 minutes to make a new one and you usually have to make a difference jig for every kitchen because different handles have different centres and not all doors have the same width stiles🤷🏻
@@agee7777 I actually use Jigs they are very handy especially on darker doors where you can't see the pencil lines but I'll make a new jig for each kitchen
@@matthewstevenson3002then you use masking tape or get a white/ yellow coloured pencil. Job done. I’ve always used 2 squares for handles and I’ll never change. jigs for that type of stuff are inaccurate after a while.
I'm a kitchen fitter. I bought a jig which you can set to suit any handle on any door. You'll have the handles on by the time you'd have doors marked for boring. Though if I didn't have it I would make a jig all day every day. Super video, well presented and explained👍
@@iaintrim2604 Too true pal. I make my boiler housings super simple to remove for full boiler access but it always seems like too much trouble for the premium trade. 😂
In my case it usually depends on the kitchen designer and client, but I always cut out the parts of the unit to give easier access to the boiler parts for maintenance. If it was up to me I wouldn’t box them at all since the boiler units are normally flimsy as fuck and annoying to install.
I remember one time there was a boiler on a corner cabinet that needed to be replaced and I almost had to dismantle all the top cabinets for the plumber to replace it because some idiot thought it was a good idea to have a boiler in a corner cabinet that wouldnt fit through the cabinet doors 😂
The tips are good, but the video is awful. Most of the tips he mentions the video doesn't even show what he means or how to do it. "put the screws behind the hinges" - video shows a hinge being attached to a door by a grub screw "cut the end panel in half to give you spares" - video shows nothing on how or why this would be a good idea "only need a mallet and glue" - video immediately shows the tradesman using a drill and measuring tape etc
Set your lazer level and put the unit where its going to be located ( more or less) and wind the legs up to the lazer line. This is much faster then measuring each leg and also works with out of level floors.
The jig idea is excellent
Great tips with a few not seen elsewhere. Many thanks
I'm also a kitchen fitter, good stuff
Very generous of you to share these great tips. Especially joining behind the hinges, I’d never have thought of that! Thanks
Great tips and hints.
That jig for handles is ace
Best fitters tricks video so far :)
I like the jig. I usually use two combination squares to mark and hold a block of wood on the back when drilling.
Jigs, laser level, multi tool! Three items that every KF should be shouting from the rooftops when dishing out tips!
I use my systainer dolly to position tall units, place on dolly push in and then wind legs to correct height, remove dolly. I use a cheap IKEA handle jig, costs a few pounds and has all the holes you could need. Just use a sharpie and the jig will almost last forever. I use systainer boxes on the worktop to push wall cupboards into place, adjusting with an air wedge. These tips are great if you are working on your own, but its always best to have another pair of hands, especially with long worktops.
Great video! I enjoy fitting a good kitchen, would like to do more of it tbh. I do a level line on the wall.
Yes I've fitted few but not for a long time. I bought a load of the old Faktum IKEA units cheaply from their bargain corner as they were about to discontinue them. I had a few promises from the staff there that there would be many more ex-display units coming down to the bargain corner, but they never did. I suspect the staff had first pick of the complete kitchens. So I still have the slightly damp incomplete kitchen in the garage. Missus really mad at me after all this time (can't blame her) and has ordered me to just buy a bloody new complete kitchen or she will get someone in to do it. But suddenly kitchen units cost a fortune. I'm sick of seeing DIY stores advertising a particular run or configuration of units that cost ex amount of money. The one thing I like about IKEA is that they give you prices for individual carcasses for base or wall and then give prices for the doors that fit these carcasses. I don't think their new Metod system is as good as the old Faktum one and they have no service void at the rear. Any ideas my friend.
Great vid. Thanks for sharing.
Nice, now come do mine!
For the handle jig put screws instead of holes hit the screws with a hammer to mark the door and your holes won't go bigger on the jig
Instead of using your tape to measure your height of the legs, set your square to your desired height, worked for me for the last 40 years! But good tips your showing.
Me too buddy. Set it and bingo every leg is at the same height before any minor adjustments. Plus the square saves you faffing with a tape measure for loads of marking out. Saves me squinting at the tape measure ever few minutes as well.
If you set your later level you can position the unit upside down were its going and wind the legs up as kitchen floors are rarely level
What would be the best Dewalt table saw for my lad, as he's just finished his apprenticeship in Kitchen fitting. Out of these 3 choices, which would be the best for him. the 10 inch DWE7492 on the heavy duty roller trolley, the 8inch DWE7485 or the DCS7485T2 54v XR cordless. If the 8inch, would you choose ally trolley or the simple scissor stand. If someone was buying it for you....which would you choose.
@@UbiquitousRomp Depends on where he works. Battery will always be useful in terms of utility if he has the flexvolt batteries to run it. if not, as its for kitchen fitting 8 inch 240v is probably fine to be honest. as a kitchen fitter I would want the battery powered one with a couple Flexvolt 9ah batteries.
@@preddes6522Thanks for replying Predd decided to get him the 240v dw743n flip saw table Tow in one.. He's chuffed. Obviously not a heavy duty as they old elu tables, but they are not to heavy and fairly sturdy without the need of a bulky trolley.
I like the look 20v router with the two bases. But am I right in thinking, that's under powered for worktops.? I haven't seen a DW 60w router yet.
Only problem with a jig is that the holes get worn the more you use it and so its not accurate anymore
It takes 2 minutes to make a new one and you usually have to make a difference jig for every kitchen because different handles have different centres and not all doors have the same width stiles🤷🏻
@matthewstevenson3002 exactly! It takes more than two minutes and because all kitchens are different is the reason not to bother with jigs.
@@agee7777 I actually use Jigs they are very handy especially on darker doors where you can't see the pencil lines but I'll make a new jig for each kitchen
@@matthewstevenson3002then you use masking tape or get a white/ yellow coloured pencil. Job done. I’ve always used 2 squares for handles and I’ll never change. jigs for that type of stuff are inaccurate after a while.
I'm a kitchen fitter. I bought a jig which you can set to suit any handle on any door. You'll have the handles on by the time you'd have doors marked for boring. Though if I didn't have it I would make a jig all day every day.
Super video, well presented and explained👍
Top tip for kitchen fitters. Stop fucking boxing in boilers
😄😄get paid again to dismantle and reassemble Top tip for heating engineers learn to take a screw out
@@iaintrim2604 Too true pal. I make my boiler housings super simple to remove for full boiler access but it always seems like too much trouble for the premium trade. 😂
In my case it usually depends on the kitchen designer and client, but I always cut out the parts of the unit to give easier access to the boiler parts for maintenance. If it was up to me I wouldn’t box them at all since the boiler units are normally flimsy as fuck and annoying to install.
I remember one time there was a boiler on a corner cabinet that needed to be replaced and I almost had to dismantle all the top cabinets for the plumber to replace it because some idiot thought it was a good idea to have a boiler in a corner cabinet that wouldnt fit through the cabinet doors 😂
Boo hoo no one cares or sees what you do😢
The tips are good, but the video is awful. Most of the tips he mentions the video doesn't even show what he means or how to do it.
"put the screws behind the hinges" - video shows a hinge being attached to a door by a grub screw
"cut the end panel in half to give you spares" - video shows nothing on how or why this would be a good idea
"only need a mallet and glue" - video immediately shows the tradesman using a drill and measuring tape
etc