VIEWERS QUESTIONS ANSWERED | GENERAL STYLE AND OTHER TOPICS
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- Опубликовано: 23 окт 2023
- In this video your host answers viewers questions on gentlemens style of all kinds.
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In regard to dress canes: Yes, a younger gentleman can use one - but only if they have confidence and a strong sense of individuality. Can young men wear Regency-era tailcoats and cravats? Zack Pinsent says yes! I have two dress canes, and I'm a big fan of them. I often use a dress cane in the winter with a fur-collar overcoat, pocket watch, fedora, and vintage suit.
I really like Ash's answer here. If you want to look like someone from the nineteenth or early-twentieth century, go for it! Nothing wrong with doing so. If you want to look current, skip it. I appreciate the acceptance of either option without judgment.
The question to ask is - am I being a characture of a bygone era?
@@wnh79 Personally, I don't see the negative in doing so.
Isn’t a dress cane almost identical to a tightly bundled umbrella? Like overcoats, that era was when men did a little more walking outside. If your 2023 urban mobility is mainly going from your car/taxi to office, restaurants, theater, homes, why would you have a dress cane? When you got there, what would you do with the cane? Hat/coat checks are almost non-existent, at least in the US. It is that change in behavior that makes the canes looked very unusual.
@@michaelblazin4093 That's a fair point. I actually have left my canes in restaurants a couple times! I think it's best to consider what one is doing when taking a cane. For example, I sometimes go to a small urban area in which I'll stroll around for a long while. I'll take a cane there. I think I agree with you in that there needs to be some level of use for the cane, because if you're just taking a taxi to somewhere in which you'll just store it away, it's more cumbersome than stylish. It might see more use in suburban and rural areas than metropolises.
What a beautiful outfit you are wearing today Ash! As incredible as it may seem, I own a very similar one; practically the same shirt and tie, the only difference is that my blazer is double-breasted. Seeing you dress like that makes me feel I am on the right path. Cheers!
Salute to you sir
Hi Ash, --and greetings fellow-Ashlings; dress canes were employed during the Victorian and Edwardian eras for self defense! A shaft of strong-but-light hardwood, topped with a dense brass or silver head would be a formidable weapon for a chap challenged by roughnecks and ruffians (anti-chaps) ;-)
An option for the gentleman that is hoping to add a cane to his wardrobe might be a tightly wound umbrella. I carry one when I want to have something in my hands, and it's very practical.
Great idea sir
Thanks for you answer Chap Gide, I forgot to mention I just turned 40, and see a pattern in the comments and questions, at this age we are all shifting from “youth look” to “mature look” and behavior, me personally, I look 28 (from what people tell me) but know it is time to leave behind the nonsense, so on that note, I will continue learning from channels like yours to reach chap nirvana!
Great answers all. I will add two things. In reference to watches with suits, I think some rules transcend fashion. First, a dive watch is a tool for diving. Just because it looks good, doesn't make it a dress watch. Wearing a dive watch with a suit is done a lot, but mostly by people who are eager for others to see how expensive their watch is. It isn't a dress watch. Keep it for casual outfits and actual occasions where its features benefit you environment.
Unless you're James Bond. If you are James Bond, you may wear a dive watch with a tuxedo. In fact, if you're an actor playing James Bond, you are contractually obligated to wear one.
This doesn't mean a stainless steel watch is off limits. A stainless steel band, if it sleek enough, and if it is holding an appropriate face, it can look nice.
Watches and formal attire do not go together. This is white tie. White tie is reserved for occasions that are more important than anything else you could be doing, so there is no reason to be checking your time. Checking your watch at someone's wedding looks really bad.
And the other is regarding the shift someone might make from slobby, heavy metal T-shirt towards more formal attire. Your suggestion to go gradually is good, but I would also take jumps forward and back. This is wear you go straight from the old look to slacks and a button down shirt (tucked in), and some brown dress shoes or boots (chukka are fine). Do this for single occasions, like a date night, or visiting a museum. Or even running errands, could work.
The idea here is to notice the reaction from others, the way you are treated, how clerks respond, and that sort of thing. What this amounts to is dressing up a little for some things, to get the feel of it.
Sound advice sir
There are plenty of sleek, classic dive watches such as the Lorier Hydra 1, and these look more refined than many non-dive watches such as a day date/date just. There's always some cross-over in the watch world.
I have to admit that if im dressed down, work clothes, i like to test people's prejudice by being a gent and helping with random acts of kindness. They look so surprised after having me pegged as a less mannered type of chap.
I am always impressed by your eloquence. I always strive to improve my English; therefore, I pay much attention to well-educated English public speakers. You combine clear, beautiful pronunciation with a wealth of information delivered in a concise manner; in other words, you are very eloquent. Thank you!
PS: I agree with you regarding the walking stick or cane; I found it outdated and rather pretentious.
Thank you! 😃
I'd like to speak out here in favour of the Cane!😉
Though I have to preface this with the mention that for neorological reasons having to do with a 50odd ton lorry and my head I nered one.
And If In *need* one anyway, why go with the ugly House MD modell If I can instead used this to add a bit of vaguely Edwardian panache to my oufits?
It's not an accessory I'd have chosen without need (it tends to reduce your useable hands to one...😑) but I'll also concede that I utilize it to the maximum for outfits which would otherwise verge on cosplay.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1absolutely right dear Sir Raoul. Haha. Drifting into cosplay shouldn't be seen. But if physically needed then go the elegant way. I like those refined canes some with telescopes or compasses. Especially with an animal head but for now not in my needs.
Thank you very much for answering my question, you are a gent :)
Brilliant video , sir.But just a note , American finest shoes are Alden.As a Spaniard I truly appreciate your content of and superb videos about traditional British style and brings me great memories of living in England when I was a young lad.Thank you !
Thanks for the info!
Awesome tie Ash! Looks great with the navy blue blazer.👍 Is that a pink shirt? Nice!
Scarves 1:00
Gloves 2:59
Shoe maintenance 3:45
Dress canes 6:10
Boots 9:10
Wrist watches 13:20
Heavymetaltshirt 14:40
Cavalrytwilltrouser 17:20
Men40 19:50
Salute to you sir
I remember in the seventies when the pimp cane made a comeback...Elvis, Evil Knieval and loads of others flashed them around. (the cape also) Some of the old photos are just wild!
I'm waiting for capes to come back. I could get behind that trend!
I enjoy your videos as being someone whose career was in banking at a time when removing one’s jacket regardless of the heat (without air conditioning) was “not on”. I might offer a suggestion that you consider Basil Rathbone and Nigel Bruce in their roles as Holmes and Watson as visual examples of how men with more representative body types of the general male population can also better dress themselves without having a James Bond body. They both dress without flash, but always wear their outfits well. The same goes for their film villains.
Are you interested in the concept of what the Italians call ‘Sprezzatura’? Style without any apparent effort.
He did a video on that already (spoiler alert no he doesn’t appeal to it)
I love the German flag-color scheme of your tie. Simply marvelous!
Reminds me of Prince Philip’s German heritage.
Good advice Ash. My wife purchased me a good cashmere scarf at the charity for $3 we looked up the brand and it was a very expensive scarf. This would be a good source for the gentleman wanting to up his game as well. I have found Brooks Brothers shirts that are new for $4 to $10 that would have cost me $100 or more at the store or catalog. Best regards Ron
Excellent advice on that last question!
When you were addressing the question of the Heavy Metal fan and showed the volume dial, I thought for sure you’d say, “This one goes to 11.” (“Spinal Tap”reference there)
Re - Breitling watches, they’re no longer outrageous pieces you seem to remember. Particularly, the Premier line. I’d put several of those models against just about anything south of Rolex.
The style volume theory is a sensible approach. Well said.
Metal dude. Here you go:
Chelsey boots. Work for any occasion from casual to formal, in black or dark brown. Id go with a dark brown as is more versatile, but if you're metal guy, you can be you and stick w black at first. Match the belt in a med width, not too wide, not too skinny that works with jeans or chinos. Keep it plain, no studs and such.
Dark jeans in black or navy, and some dark navy or charcoal chinos. Keep jean fading to a minimum, no distressing. For the most formal occasions, get out the iron and put a crisp crease in the chinos and you're good.
Collared shirts. Solid colors, def white, along with a couple other colors to suit you taste.
Navy blazer in a lightweight wool or cotton blend, not too structured and formal but not a sack either, try to strike a balance of informal/formal in the cut. For winter, just get yourself a wool peacoat or overcoat in black, charcoal, or navy. Overcoats cut a dash but a good old Navy peacoat is more versatile and still looks polished IMO.
Ties: here is where you can express yourself. Everything from skulls to vibrant solid colors to more traditional patterns depending on the occasion.
Hats: Med brim wool fedora or a nice flat cap or newsboy. Or you could even stay more metal w a black leather flat cap or Trilby. In keeping with the Chap esthetic, find a metal inspired lapel pin, and/or pin for you flat cap. For hotter weather you can't beat a med brim Panama fedora, which again works for any occasion from tee shirt to full regalia.
With these items you can cover everything from shooting pool in a dive bar to a funeral. You can pair your black metal graphic tees w an unbuttoned collared shirt or wear them under the blazer, and go full collared shirt, chinos, blazer, and tie for formal occasions.
Once you get comfortable in your darker metal colors like charcoal, navy, & black, you can branch out into browns, tweeds, and lighter colored jackets and trousers. This is when the brown footwear and belt will come in handy.
Another informative video ash keep them coming.
Great video Ash
Ash, excellent information and as usual well presented.
Glad it was helpful!
Lol love the dress cane bit! You have to admit it goes well with a monocle :)
Very good Q&A.
In a future video, would it be possible to do a factory tour of Fox Bros in Wellington, Somerset?
We’ll see if it’s possible
Greetings Ash from Hershey, Pennsylvania! I recently discovered your channel and it's positively a delight. As for the question regarding a dress cane, might I make a suggestion to your fan? Invest in a quality umbrella. I'm not sure if you've ever discussed umbrellas on your channel. I ordered mine from Fox Umbrellas and ensured that my model was a solid staff model. That way I could use it as a walking cane if I wanted to. They have options of adding silver engraved plating to the handle so it's quite decorative. Being an umbrella, it's not off-putting in modern society and it's quite the functional accessory for an everyday chap.
Thank you for the reminder - I am looking into Fox umbrellas for a future video.
Hi Ash, I wonder if the photographs of Cavalry Twill should have come up when talking about dress canes? Great advice though. I love the volume idea. A notch at a time is a good way to go.
Editing issue - the staff have since been sanctioned
Well, good morning in the morning gents! ... or is it 3am?!
Pocket squares - Have you mentioned jackets with upper left pocket sewn shut? While prepping for pocket squares, I discovered half of my pretty upscale sport coats/blazers had the pocket sewn shut. Is that only a US practice?
I found a video that discussed how to check whether a pocket exists. I looked for a single thread sealing the pocket. That was what my coats had. A few snips and my jackets were ready for pocket squares. Maybe only in the US, manufacturers seal the pocket to make the jacket drape better on a hanger in the store. Connected to the stitching that seals the vents on a jacket?
It is common for jackets to have all pockets sewn closed when manufactured. Just carefully cut them open and they are good to go.
I've seen lots of Metal fans wear ties or suits. Some with good taste and fit, and others well I don't know how to criticize nicely so It's better I say nothing. LOL
As to suit waering metalheads, just last month I wore a black (of course, it's metal after all!) Chino-esq Cotton two piece with a newsboy cap (don't warnt to be an a..hole to those in te crowd behind you) a band shirt and a cravat in a black and white houndstooth - only got compliments from the other metalheads - and If that works in a concert why wouldn't a normal suite be fine in everyday war?
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Interesting choice of attire you have there sir. I can relate to that. --- I tend to follow common rules or protocols when it comes to wearing suits or upgraded casual wear. However, there's a part of me that carefully tends to do some tweeking here and there to give my attire a slightly darker mysterious look. Not too much, just a little.
I've definitely noticed that metalheads tend to have an interest in classical culture. Vintage Bursche, a vintage menswear RUclipsr, was formerly a metalhead. I've also noticed this to be the case with classical music. Many metalheads also enjoy classical, and many metal bands take direct inspiration from classical composers.
I like Classical, Modern Classical, New Wave, Metal, and neo-classical (Yngwie). @@themoderndandy713
Hi ash, what advice do you give on how to dress in a way not drawing attention to ones self?
Do you agree, wearing lighter shoes like Tan and dark pants actually attention grabbing?
Do you prefer subtle esthetics like low contrast colors between pants and shoes?
Short answer for me is yes, I do prefer a mild contrast between the footwear and the clothing. Light tan shoes and dark trousers can be distracting and even jarring on the eye and will undoubtedly detract from your other clothing.
Smashing video as always Ash, thank you. A question for a future video if I may: where do you stand on smart watches and do you think they have a place in a gentleman's sartorial collection? Thanks
Thanks for the question
Re dress canes: My local flea markets are full of dress canes and walking sticks. Shouldn't be tricky to find a real vintage beauty for a low price.
Forty is the old age of youth, 50 is the youth of old age.
hey, I'm 57 and I don't feel old!
Sometimes, it feels nice to be 23.
I just turned 40 😩
@@frankv7068 Just a young fella!
I’m about to turn 40, I’ll need to remember that saying 😅
looking forwar to a vid from inside moose lodge
Hi Ash, how should I polish shoes that do not have a cap toe cap? Do I settle for a regular shine or can I polish them to a mirror shine?
I'll step in here. You can polish the toe part to a mirror shine, and leave the vamp a lower shine level. You don't want to mirror shine the vamp, as that much wax will flake off badly when your foot flexes. Just do the toes.
If really needed too, one could use masking tape?
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 I think masking tape would remove polish. But even so, a straight line across would look strange. Like you're trying to make a cap toe. No need for that, if you focus on the toe area, the rest will blend in nicely. You can watch many videos online to get a good picture.
@@janerkenbrack3373 or a piece of sting for a rough guide?
Largely depends on the existence of a toe cap in the shoe itself (mostly tough leather or thermoplastics).
You can easily feel if there's one and if there is it's irrelevant wheather it's optically obvious, just polish the hard tip to a mirror shine.
If it's all soft I'd advice against anything beyond a shiney polish since it will be soft leather and the polish will break.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
I would not label Allen & Edmonds as America's finest - J. Fitzpatrick, just to give one example, is a superior American brand. Similarly, as great as Crockett and Jones are, they are not quite at the standard of other English shoe makers such as Gaziano & Girling or John Lobb.
In Australia (not a style leader), many men wear RM Williams Chelsea boots with suits. It's not a bad look, but it is a bit of a cliche though.
Sadly many of these boots are not maintained at all.
Is the bracelet made of gold or platinum also or steel ?
steel I believe
Unless you have a sword in the Cane .. leave it alone ..
Ash…..quick one for you….Harris tweed cap and jacket? Too much? Or ok? TIA.
Well I'm wearing both, right now, as I type this, so I say it's fine :)
As long as they don't clash, should be fine sir.
Dress canes appear costumish these days.🤔
Dotted handkerchief and striped tie
Aargh, bad taste 😬
Speaking from personal experience, if your going bald just shave it ALL off.