How to make a carbon fibre seat pan // Paul Brodie's Shop
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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Re your mudguard (fender) disaster, I did something similar years ago when attempting to take a fibreglass mold off a plaster wall light fitting. My wife was away on holiday, so I had two days to recreate the fitting out of timber, get multiple coats of shellac on it and then lots of wax. The end story: the (3 piece) mould came out fine and I ended up making 22 lights for our new house.
The moral of the story is to not give up, but take time to regroup, learn from the mistake and move forward.
David, I think you are correct!
That looks so smooth that if a fly tried to land it would slide off and break a leg
You might be right!
In the immortal words of Mr. Miyagi: "wax on, wax off"
That buck looks fantastic, It's great to see you sharing these skills learned from experiences
Thank you.
Paul, my motorcycle paint is not as smooth and shiny as your mould….. amazing Sir….. truly amazing !
I was lucky to have someone show me how to polish paint. Until that point, I just never knew.
@@paulbrodie what were we saying about ocd? 😂
@@philipspencer1834 I don't know. I can't remember.
Having worked making molds, plugs, ect.
Mainly for museum
You are inspiring so many people!!! Bravo A+++
Thank you very much.
In '94 (I think) I ordered a 19" Expresso painted harvest gold like an old fridge. I think Chris welded it (Chris later turned into a step-brother-in-law for a while). It took me months to save and get all the parts for the build -- and I used to pick it up and marvel at it -- and dream of the feel of it under power; I used to take it into the bathroom instead of a bike magazine when nobody was around. Man, I loved that bike. Over the years as my musical instrument making career developed, I would sometimes think of "Paul Brodie" and that bike as a model for my own craft. You were a mythical figure; I had no idea what you looked like even. You're even cooler than I imagined. Man, I love this channel.
Addendum: I just found the '94 Brodie catalog in a box marked "Sentimental". Four pages! It's worn from dreaming. First year of the new dropouts.
Well, that's a very nice email, thank you. When I first started building frames, so many times I would ask myself, "How would Tom do it?" Ritchey was a huge influence in my life, even if we lived 1100 miles away. So I do know what you are referring to. Hope your musical instrument career is going well :)
Great, I had to laugh when you segued to your earlier attempt at separating the seat from the mould. The crow bar in view was hilarious. 😁
Glad you enjoyed it. That was a lot of work to fix!
Great tip on using the roller on the fiberglass. Thank you very much, my seat pan came out great.
Good news! Thanks for watching.
If I was 'doing-up' a motorcycle , it would be Las Vegas: what happens in the workshop, stays in the workshop. That is why I am so keen on the life-vicarious.
release film and a vacuum system would make life easier and give you a better product
You might be right but I do so little of it....
This series of three video is really going to help me with making custom tail panels on my 1989 FZR 600. Really appreciate the video info!
Thanks for watching. We appreciate it!
I love watching you working. So interesting. Respect from France 🇫🇷
Hello France! Thanks for watching :)
love these so much
Thanks!
I see I'm not the only one with fuzzy hands laying CSM, Chop Strand Matt. If you don't like getting your hands messed up, this isn't for you. Gloves are an absolute must! But the end results are your reward too! Thumbs Up, even if they are fuzzy... lol!
I've never heard of "fuzzy hands" before, but it make perfect sense. Thanks for watching.
Barrier cream, for when your manual dexterity is poor to begin with and gloves make it worse!
Better you then me getting that resin stuck to everything. I sanded a whole Corvette with roofing insulation, it was I was told volcanic, took all the paint off, conformed to all curves, but didn't scratch the gelcoat, except it smelled like an unattended PortaSan, sometime you have to take the bad with the good.
"If you don't do it properly a lot can go wrong" that definitely applies to so many things, but especially composites. It's nice to see a simple process for carbon fiber. I'm used to seeing it done with the vacuum bagging and infusion or the prepreg and autoclave and being so expensive. I still have a lot to learn about all the finishing and composite processes, since I mostly come from machining, welding, and working on engines.
In a sense I am "cheating" with the carbon fibre, but I was just after the look, so this way is easier for me. Thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie You could cheat a littler bit more - just get a pack of Cloth Bags for the vacuum cleaner & peel ply.
These bags a dirt cheap and the heavist part is the resin with that method you can get theparts lighter and nicer & without air bubbles its stronger as well.
Paul
Is there nothing you can’t do another cracking video please keep them coming.
Rgds
Jon
Thanks Jon. We haven't run out of video ideas... yet!
I've always maintained that it doesn't matter if no one else sees it, i know it's there, thanks Paul
My philosophy too. Thanks for watching.
Spot on for the explanation. Between Crownline boat factory and Bombardier/Sea doo I spent 7 years doing fiberglass repair,mold maintenance and running their fiberglass chopper guns. Acetone is definitely your friend when working with composites,although it’s extremely flammable. Definitely need to work in a well ventilated area when working with resin and acetone,been in two chopper gun booths that went up in a fireball. Apparently static electricity builds up in your body when you run the chopper gun or when you knock down the glass with a roller. We had 3 gallon acetone buckets to wash our hands and chopper guns in. The first time I went up in flames my buddy had just lifted the lid on his acetone bucket. The second time it was me getting the chopper gun close enough to the acetone for a spark to jump,we constantly scrubbed our guns with acetone and paint brushes to keep them in operation. Just a little fyi there,I always keep a door open with a box fan in the opening to circulate fresh air when doing glass work now. Great work on the mold and your video. Keep up the excellent work. 👍
Lewis, good comments! Yes, I do need to be more aware that acetone burns very well. You definitely have some stories about your work with fibreglass.. Thanks for watching!
Glad to see your content regularly on here. Still in the process of finishing up my knucklehead engine,just waiting on shims to arrive for my rocker shafts. After that’s done the Aermacchi is back in the works here after finding a useable cylinder. I don’t miss the fiberglass work occasionally but if I had to build boats as a source of I’d be looking for a nice cushy cardboard box to live in,lol. Can’t wait to see what’s coming down the pike on your next bike project or installment.
@@lewismocaby3646 Thank you Lewis :)
Good to see how this should be done. I once built a kayak using molds for top and bottom. It went well until it came to joining the top to the bottom with 4" wide fiber-glass tape on the inside seam, it worked OK but looked pretty bad and I got a lot of resin in my hair. Happy days.
Getting resin in your hair does not sound like a good thing! Fibreglassing is not always easy, and you really do have to think on your feet sometimes.
Haha me too!
Great vid Pal your almost ready to get the silver plaque! I just made a 12kg silicone mold and the paint and release inhibited cure on plug. I cut out space and floated the part to re mold. Not as easy as some vid how to's. Cheers hope your well from Evan. march 4
Thanks Evan. My shop is pretty crowded but I do like the sound of a silver plaque! It sounds like you are having fun and games with molds and release agents. Hope it all works out for you.... March 5
Hey Paul, they make a product (many brands produce it) called "peel-ply" that you can put on top of your layup, it's a permeable membrane that then lets you squeegee out the excess resin from you layup, and then after the resin cures, it peels away. This lets you get almost as much out as vacuum bagging, and allows for much stronger and lighter parts than you can get with just traditional layup and rolling, but you don't need to bag and vacuum it. I think you would enjoy using it in your shop. It's also useful in reducing the sanding needed afterwards if you intend to paint.
Thanks. I will keep that in mind. I only do this sort of thing maybe once a year...
@@paulbrodie Yeah, it can be a bit of a niche application. If you find yourself doing more composite work, take a look at Mike Patey's build of "Scrapy" on youtube, his composite work on his airplanes is a wealth of knowledge.
Peel-ply closing the gap between traditional layup and vacuum bagging is just handy to have in the quiver though for infrequent composite work, since it reduces the overhead of equipment so much.
Another nice technique for one-off parts is using pink foam insulation boards to sculpt a model out of, then do your layup around it, before soaking the part in a acetone bath to melt away the foam, if you leave a couple drain holes you can even do thinks like composite tanks this way. This saves a lot of the mold prep work, at the cost of it being single use.
Thanks again for your videos, I really love the techniques I learn from them!
@@MatthewMenze Thanks Matthew. I printed out your comment for future reference.
You are the Bob Ross of motorcycles
Thank you. I did watch Bob paint a landscape :)
Patience..Persistence..Perfectionist..key qualities when working with Carbon fiber/Glass fiber. Thoughts of ‘ah,that’ll do’ have to be put aside! Do a few Carbon Bike frame repairs and there is always a moment when one is faced with the choice of patiently pushing on.....abandoning the project or going with the ‘that’ll do’ narrative ! Thank you for expanding my understanding of application of wax. As always a pleasure to watch.
Felix, thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video as usual! Let see Mitches finished bike!
Thanks. Fingers crossed!
Nice job, thanks for the roller and acetone tips. Thanks guys.
Our pleasure!
I'm working on a kit car and went through a similar learning curve on the fiberglass body. One other thing the roller does is soak up excess resin. Dunking the roller in acetone was a trick I hadn't heard before. Nice to know that now.
Yes, putting the brush or roller into acetone is good to know. I struggled so much before I knew that.
That was excellent, I went through the same learning process.
I learnt I could make race seat mounts on motorcycle frames by covering the frame with cling film and using the tubes as the buck.
Thank you Geoff.
From what I remember from about 40 years ago, chopped strand mat has a binder that dissolves when using styrene based resin but not epoxy based ?
Woven roving doesn't have any binders added AFAIK?
I was taught 5 layers wax at minimum and re-wax after 'first pull'. I bought 'special' release wax but pretty much any hard wax works.
I guess things have changed rather a lot though?
Acetone will also 'revive' styrene based fiberglass allowing extra layers or repairs to be made easier and stronger, particularly if you have a gel coat.(Although really old stuff would require quite a long time to soften properly)
Can't really answer your questions, sorry. I have a little knowledge, but am not a true expert.
Sharing mistakes… best lessons, Thankyou!
Roman, thanks for watching!
Hi Paul, next time try a 3k twill pattern (45 deg woven) carbon fibre matt. It is designed for this application because it can mould complex shapes without needing to be cut. You were using a 3k plain weave (90deg) pattern best suited to flat and cylinder shapes. Have a great day!
Great suggestion! I know there are many choices for the carbon weave.
@@paulbrodie there are a few choices but for your purpose, unless you are looking for a particular pattern, the 3k twill is really your only choice. Any thicker and you run into the same problems and any thinner you loose some structural strength. 3k (that’s what we call it in the U.K.) is a construction grade, perfect for what you are doing. You got half right 👍🤣
Learn something every time. Been fiberglassing for years, never thought of dipping the roller in acetone (or laquer thinner) while rolling.
No, I don't suggest lacquer thinner, just acetone. Works on the brush and the roller.
Thumbs up, re: acetone Versus Laquer thinner. Still learning :-)
Thx PB & M, rollers are indeed good here. I have a Norton and the seat pan is fiberglass but old and broken will be using some of your techniques when I replace or repair it.... Sort of heavy so will probably build a new one. Watched you Vincent vid recently, There is a fella I know of out your way who has a couple of Vincents, one is a custom with Terry Prince everything and Glen Buit a beautiful frame and bike around his 1360 engine, perhaps you know him, anyway the triumph will look super with that seat.
Hope your seat pan goes according to plan. I am out of the Vincent Loop after all these years. Do not know those fellas you mentioned..
Again very interesting, You have explained how important it is to make everything really smooth. Oh: never think you are being to fussy, as
what is wrong with trying to get it PERFECT,- ? Yes really enjoyed the seat base.
Thanks. It's just part of my Fussy Framebuilder thing: trying to make things as perfect as possible.
I have never attempted fibreglass, good lesson today 👍👏👌
Cheers Chris
Thanks Chris.
Hi Paul & Mitch, Well, this was fun, too! Never tried making a mold, so I don't have my own library of mold goofs LOL! Your explanations and lessons are so easy to understand. I'd do well to watch this series again before taking on the mold process... Thanks again!
Thank you Tom. Making stuff out of fibreglass can be very satisfying if all goes according to plan!
I had a friend who is a German certified composite aircraft repair matiance technician . I had the massive advantage of his supervision when I needed a small part made. I have seen him use the wing of a fully functional aircraft as a plug to make a new wing skin mold to use repairing a second aircraft of the same type and model. You could say he is very confident in his abilities for good reason. That plug was worth $150,000 .
It sounds like your friend has some very good skills!
You can make smaller specialized rollers out of threaded rod. Having a lathe around to center drill some holes in each end of the rod section is handy but I drilled some by hand way back when I started glassing small part runs. A handle bent out of some coat hanger wire and Bob is yer uncle. Yeah cleaning the roller in your acetone bucket is the ticket. These threaded rod rollers allow you to pull the matt sideways into corners and such as well as roll out tight inside radii.
That's a good idea using redi-rod to make very small rollers. I haven't needed anything that small yet, but you never know. Thanks :)
For larger rollers, use fender washers with smaller washers as spacers between them, it's quick on larger surfaces
@@1crazypj They sell rollers in all shapes and sizes. But yes, you could make one.
I went through the same tribulations on the first parts I tried to make too. It only takes one time to wisen up though. With wax and then PVA, you don't have to be so fussy. Once a mold is broken in, the pieces almost come out on their own. Usually a dark tooling gel coat is used so that you can see the air bubbles, as compared to a white or light color. I usually use the orange.
I heard about PVA many years ago but still haven't tried it. I'm aware you can get brush on and spray on versions and also 'universal' but don't know what the differences (if any) really are?
@@1crazypj The spray on will be thinner I imagine, just like the spray on gel coats are. I have always used the brush on versions of both, mainly because of very low volume parts. The handiest thing I ever did was bring home a bunch of brochures from the supplier years ago, when they had them in their showroom. The info in them really helped me out on many aspects of working with the products, from mold making to parts production.
If you put a flange around the bottom of the mould you can easily vac bag it. Using a slow cure epoxy will give you plenty of time. The part will be much stronger and lighter. Sac cloth and bleeder material will get all that excess resin and bubbles out. You would love the results being a fussy old frame builder. 😎
Thanks for filling in my holes in my understanding of Fiberglassing. I didn’t know a lot of this stuff, so I learned other methods, e.g. using toilet bowl wax or beeswax, building up a few thousandths, layup, then heating things when done and the part comes off “dead easy.”
Yes, there are several ways that can work. Thanks for watching.
I learn something every time. Thank you! Got me wondering if that gallon of Imron is still good.....
Some my Imron stock must be 30 years old!
Hello Paul! I could not find a continuation of this work.
Hello! Well, after the seat pan got made, I took it to the upholstery shop, and they finished the seat. You can see the finished seat in later videos. Thanks for watching!
Спасибо! @@paulbrodie
Great do's and don'ts Paul, thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Thanks Rick 👍
Thanks Paul
Thanks Don.
Hi, I heve been looking forward to the next installment on the seat pan
And here it is!
I'm so glad to see this. I am going to attempt a seat pan soon. Thanks for sharing (especially the mistakes) Paul!
Thanks for watching. I hope your seat pan goes according to plan :)
Good sanding tips, Paul. Once I learned how to sand properly, my panel repairs improved massively in time and effort taken and finish quality. I don't have to use huge amounts of spray putty anymore!
Thanks Simon.
great job as always Paul, I used to use Imron back in the 80's also, and that was the best paint you could get back in the days yeah...we are ageless my friend haha!
Thank you zen pro. Yes, Imron has an amazing shelf life. It just never gets old. Are we really ageless?
Hi Paul and Mitch, Great videos! I wanted to point out two things that could make your life easier when working with fabric reinforcements. The fabric you are using is plain fabric, which is stiffer than twill fabric. Twill fabric can bend around curves easier. Another point is fibre orientation, a +-45 deg orientation is better for small radius, as the "local" radius that the fibre sees increase. I believe you could have laid your carbon sheet in one piece with those tricks. As long as you are not looking for the lowest weight possible it does not make much of a difference other than optics, but I believe those tricks might come in hand for the aeromacchi ;)
Javier, thanks for watching and commenting. Someone else suggested twill fabric. I'm still learning, and don't do much fibreglass at all. But I do enjoy it.
Really enjoy everything you do Paul. Very creative and a perfectionist. Great channel.
Thank you George. Nice compliment!
Hello Paul, I really enjoyed the video today. Sunshine really does help, in every way. ( minds included.)
The methodical way you went through what is a sticky tricky operation was very informative. Great to see your old pictures of what not to do! We have all been there and of course if you don’t try you will never learn. The real question I have for you is…….
How on earth did you stay so clean? I only have to walk past something to be covered in it!
Thank you again Kevin.
Thank you Kevin. How did I stay so clean? I guess I was being careful :)
Interesting video, very different to the way I do it. To aid release I spray PVA at high pressure low volume to give a very fine coat and it pops off a treat. Your carbon seemed very stiff Paul. The stuff I use drapes beautifully 200gm 3k. I mostly vacuum infuse and it's much cleaner if wasteful of 'consumables' . Anyway nice to follow the builds you are doing.
Thanks Chris. Yes, there are many ways to do this process. I'm still learning.
Perfect timing. I want to make a shorter than stock beak for my R1100GS because I snapped the original one off. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge and experience. You've boosted my confidence that I can get it done.
That's great the timing was perfect. Thanks for watching!
As always, thank you, Paul & Mitch. I've done a bit of fiberglass, mostly when I was racing, and I found repair & reinforcement to be rewarding, but building new parts from scratch doesn't really play to my strong suite. I'd lose enthusiasm for the project about the time I needed to polish the mold.
I've often wondered if you could get many of the benefits of a vacuum bag by putting the part inside a cardboard or plywood box, then filling a garbage bag with water on top of it. I've never tried it, so it might be a terrible idea.
Thanks Alan. I've never done vacuum bagging, so can't say if your idea with a garbage bag and water has any merit..
Hey Paul! Thanks so much for a very informative video!
I've been doing glass for years , never heard of the acetone dunk before , no one tells you and there's no mention of it in the various handbooks I've read over the years, also other subtle differences not clearly explained in handbooks.
One thing I do slightly differently is , I put a layer of matt down over my last layup and roll the blazes out of it , what it does is , it picks up the excess resin until you have a "dry" but fully incorporated layer and you achieve a factor closer to the 60/40 , 70/30 ratio that builds strength.
Hamish, thanks for watching and commenting :)
you can make one for first aid :), it's possible to make roller with washers, but it's better to buy a new one, but if you can't buy it, you can make a washer roller, any way fantastic tuttorial
Thank you.
@@paulbrodie no,, thank you, for your tutorial
Looks like a hedgehog around the edges. You can get a wipe on release agent (not pva) instead of polishing. 3-5 coats job done.
Thanks Paul and Mitch for the fiberglassing and carbon fiber lessons and learning faults.
Could you provide a reference for the carbon fiber material?
Thank you for your time.
Ebay
I bought the carbon fibre from George at Ultralux Plastics in Richmond, BC, Canada. I'm not sure what you mean by a "reference"...
@@paulbrodie
What I mean to find it here in the States what kind of carbon fiber material to order?
@@mongomay1 I have no idea. I went and saw George, we went to the back of his shop, he pulled out some carbon fibre on a roll, nothing was marked, I said I would take 3 yards, he measured and cut it off the roll, I paid him some money and that was it. Sorry I do not know more.
Hi Paul and Mitch. Thank you so much for all of this. But mostly for your belief in safety third.. Personal responsibility, common sense, with the ability to be flexile ,upgradable and courageous is a real counter measure to the nanny culture and health and safety paranoia that our young people in the UK have been indoctrinated with.
Thanks Glenn. I do try and practice Safety Third, but have been called out, usually for wearing gloves. I don't want to get hurt, and I don't want others to get hurt either.
Good job, What is the blue resin and catalyst use for this project?
Thanks Michel. I was just using polyester resin with regular catalyst, nothing fancy.
Also I discovered a while ago that if you cover your part with plastic like the 2 mil stuff from the home improvement store. You can squeegee the extra resin out and it will lock your carbon down to the form. It acts like a vaccine bag without the vacuum. Give it a shot sometime and let me know how it worked. Also if you have areas where there is to much plastic you can shrink it with a heat gun. Just be careful of the weave so it doesn't get wrinkly.
Thanks Dan. I have no idea when I will have another project using these materials...
In bees wax modelling to get the item out of the mould you have to submerge it in distilled water and put it in a fridge until the item comes away from the mould. When you were young and inexperienced maybe of you puit the mud guards in water and putting them in a cool place might have separated them. One will never know.
My fender molds were truly stuck. I don't believe water and a cool place would have helped.
@@paulbrodie We use to sand plugs with 150 grit, several times wax and PVA. Water dissolves PVA. Easy release. Coolest Cub running some day. Thank you, both.
@@4486igi Thanks for watching!
Nice job Paul😎 can we get a video on your yellow VTR? I guess it's your daily rider. I have a red one in various states of disrepair lol
Thank you Matthew. A video on my VTR? I only ride it in the summer. Not sure if that would make an interesting video...
@@paulbrodie please do, mine is an old nail. 2001 and only 47,000 odd miles. I have rebuilt the forks that had water instead of oil. Carbs were bodged badly. Put a cheap YSS shock on the back which is actually really good. Whole new exhaust system as that was basically gone. It was used as a commuter and they salt the roads here. Would love a video on the yellow peril 💪
If you use a 2x2 twill carbon fiber it will conform to tighter bends and corners
Yes, there are different weaves available. George didn't have a great selection, but this carbon weave suited me so I bought a few yards.
Paul you could have easily vacuum bagged that work with house hold products you have to hand and a sheet of peel ply.
You make it sound really easy!
@@paulbrodie Sorry I did not mean to criticize It will be fine as is ,made plenty of stuff the same way still going strong 50 years later. Vacuum bagging does have several benefits and once you have got your mind round it it really is a bit of a doddle..
@@davidprocter3578 No worries, I did not take it as a criticism.. I'm just not setup for vacuum bagging and pre-preg. I would have to get a freezer for the pre-peg and where would that fit into my small shop?
Great work Mr. Brodie, I assume the upholsterer will just glue the cover to the seat base? or do you plan to make some sort of hold down system?
Thanks Rick. Not sure yet. Myself and the upholsterer will have to come up with a plan.
@@paulbrodie What I do is , cut a thin strip of Galvanised sheet material , 0.8mm or so thick by about 15 to 20mm wide , depending on how much space I have available , I then use a punch that has been ground to the shape of an arrow head , pointy side first to pierce through and create a "Tag" that the seat material can be pushed over to hold it in place , which is lightly hammered down to lock it all.
Stick it down with some Bodyfiller {Bondo) and just a thin layer of glass to lock it all together. Better though if you plan ahead and make it an early part of the layup. Fiddly but works well once it's all done!
Ps - Your arbor press would make light work of the piercing process - wear stout gloves!
@@hamishanderson8619 Yes, that would work.
And the question is: …… is it going to come apart ?? -drum roll-
Bets are open ! 😉
We will have to wait for the next video to find out...
That bottle that you're messing with at the end of the video - sometimes I think they make the bottle caps to be not just childproof, I think they make them to be humanproof so nobody can open them unless they really, really want to.
That bottle cap is a pain in the ass! You have to squeeze the tang, AND also press the cap down. The catalyst is a little like glue and you need extra torque to break the cap lose if it hasn't been opened for several moths. Good rant, eh?
Paul can an additional layer of carbon fiber be laminated between the fiberglass matting to create a stronger pan?
In fibreglassing you can do pretty much whatever you want. To make it stronger it is cheaper to use more layers of Fibreglass matt or cloth.
Why arent you using wooven fibreglas fabric? It is much stronger and looks better, too.
You will only see the carbon fibre when the seat is taken off. The fibreglass matt is hidden under the seat foam. I had the matt on hand, I was out of fibreglass cloth...
Amazing video as always Paul! Actually if you want to dive a little bit more into carbon fiber, molds, etc. I just discovered a channel that has very informative contents. I found out that there are a lot of ways to do that as a lot of different composites. It's called "Easy Composites ltd" if you want to take a look. They have also an online shop (europe and uk) and there's a lot of stuff 😁. Thank you
Thank you. Yes, there seems to be a lot going on with composites now. I heard there is hemp cloth available too. I don't have any more fibreglassing projects on the horizon, but I will keep all of this in mind.
Why use carbon fibre to face the mould?
Does it replace tooling gel ?
I used carbon fibre because when I take off the seat it will be right there! I could have used a gel coat. I think tooling gel is used for making molds, not usually parts..
I see a broken body hammer in the picture! Must have been pretty frustrating!
You are correct! Those were cheap body hammers. I now have a better set. Thanks for watching.
so when do we get to see, man behind the scenes? A.K.A. Mitch
Mitch is a great guy, but apparently he suffers from a condition commonly known as "shyness". That's how Mitch came to be known as the Man of Mystery.
I'm wondering why the first layer applied was carbon fiber? Does the seat flip up where that would be visible?
The top will be covered with foam and a seat cover.... only the bottom will ever be seen... as to who sees it..... well, who knows?
strength and weight. To get a seat pan made solely of fiberglass, it would have to be like 10x thicker to be as strong. Carbon fiber isnt always about being exposed. CF is stronger, lighter, and more rigid.
@@minnionator You're right,… but in this case the weak point is the resin. Polyester resin isn't the best to use with Carbon fiber, as it doesn't maximize the potential of your composite. To achieve the measures you give, you have to use epoxy resin.
The seat does not flip up, but when you do take it off, there is the carbon fibre!
Use pva and you mold will pop right out .
maybe some day you'll try making a fake vr-052, it'd be a big draw.
Maybe I will. First I would have to figure out what a vr-052 is...
@@paulbrodie primarily a perfectly reasonable looking motorcycle, military, lots of bits that could be faked of glass. the fake would be easy. the 'real' thing is pulled apart and attached to a riding suit, to make powered body armour.
When making small(er) parts, I found that 1) one wants the thinnest fiberglass cloth available, and 2) the pieces need to be really small.
Yes, if you making the same part over and over, you figure out the best process. You have experience!
Are you using traditional polyester resin?
It would have to be polyester to break down the bonds in the fiberglass and at 12:06 he pours in the mek.
Yes I am.
I jokingly call it "crabon fubar" from time to time, but if you see what the bicycle industry is up to at the moment it's no surprise that it's earned the fubar in its name.
The bicycle industry is really into carbon at the moment. Bike frames don't last forever, and I don't think they have figured out the re-cycling yet, unfortunately.
@@paulbrodie Recycling of carbon fibre isn't exactly recycling. It's just a creative way to dispose of it, such as blending it into concrete and burying it inside the structure of a skyscraper or something. My understanding is that you can only recycle it into something worse than it was originally made for. That said, a guy in my city famous for making bamboo handlebars (Passchier) was chatting to me recently about biodegradeable resins made from hemp and his interest in them. For frame materials, I've got no complaints about steel or aluminium.
@@Metal-Possum Yes, I was reading about how they "re-cycle" the carbon fibre blades from wind turbines. They dug a huge long trench with an excavator and buried them. Then they ran out of land and room...
@@paulbrodie That's disappointing.
I thought there's a release agent for doing this
Yes, Carnuba wax...
Belay that, I just realised it is the part not the mould, underside being the finished side, sorry must have fallen asleep.🤪
Sanding isn't the issue. You waxed it, with what? Use 4 coats of mold release wax. Then most importantly spray on a thick coat. (Usually 3 building up then one heavy) of PVA. Poly vinyl alcohol will give you a smooth surface that will stay on your mold but was of with water.
Thanks Dan.
Ohhh I love fantastic plastic ,,
I was looking closely to see if the mold was smooth enough to show the reflection of Mitch the Mighty. .... alas not on this occasion ...
I’m always on the lookout for reflections in the shop. #vampire
Sure is hard to catch a glimpse of Mitch!
No PVA? i found it vitale.
No, I did not use PVA. I think when I did use it it was brushed on, and you can see those marks when you pop the mold. I wanted a very smooth finish, so just wax.
@@paulbrodie I know those marks. Keep up the good work. Looks like I need to work on my spelling....
No finished product?
Yes, the little Tiger Cub is assembled. Watch the startup video....
excellent vid lots of useful information, very well explained. you communicate very well, especially your early experience with moulds and fibre glass. right at end though back to thumping brainless background noise, probably not you but dumbed down mitch. take a look at doubleboost mitch and learn how to do close ups. don't dance the camera hold it still for long periods see doubleboost.
Thank you. Mitch is a little younger than myself, and we don't always agree on the background music.
@@paulbrodie yes that's what I thought. that's why I'm so tough on him. platos said melody and harmony are the supreme accomplishement of civilisation. not repetitive brain dead feeling music but music for the head. list to white rabbit by jef airplane to perhaps??? get my point. no bongos OK. on another topic, I noticed you were using a synthetic bristle brush. now these are new to me, I bought a tin of paint, the directions specifically stated to use a synthetic brush. I've yet to understand why perhaps you could talk in your vid about these brushes and why you use them, not in Yr reply to me but In a vid.
@@hrxy1 I have no idea when I might do more fibreglassing, so I will reply to you now. I use those brushes because they are cheap. George sells them for $2 each, or less.
That's ironic, I almost commented on how I enjoyed the music during the sped-up portions.
@@Alanbataar just goes to show how successful the dumbing down programme has worked
Paul Brodie your sense of aesthetics has greatly improved, your Vincent was awful.
That sounds like a compliment, I think.
F-up.
Plz. Ware a particulate mask and provide yourself with proper air flow.
Sighned;
( Having been sensitized to such chemicals )
Grumpy old Punkrocker
Tucson USA.
Love the vids.
Cheers.
He’s lying, im not behind the camera…
Please use a mask when handling the carbon fiber sheets, especially if you cut it. The fine particles can cause lung cancer!
Take care :)
I will be careful.
Are you sure you’re Paul Brodie?
Could have just used the head of a larger alligator!
I do not have a larger alligator.