Having owned and towed a number of Scamps, here's my take. It's imperative to tow these things level, to much in either direction puts strain on your Axle/Bearings and wears out yours tires much faster and will kill your fridge if running that while towing. Yes, around 18" Ball Height for 13' models and around 20" Ball Height for 16'ers is recommended on NEW Scamps (from ground to top of tow ball). However the lifespan of a typical Scamps Axle is around 15-20 years, and as that Axle starts to age your Scamp will be MUCH lower. Even a year or two old Scamp might require a couple of inches lower than that. I have pulled some mid 70's Scamps on original Axles were the ball was set at around 13" and could have went lower. If you ever see a Scamp passing that looks really low, it needs a new Axle. Best advice, if you own a Scamp, plan on a new Axle every 15 years or so. I'm not a fan of WDH or Anti Sway Hitches with these small lightweight Scamps. The frames on these trailers are not very strong, and they put a bunch of unnecessary stress on the entire trailer. Can lead to increased Spidering in the Gel Coat, have even seen a few with misaligned doors in the shell from extended use. If a trailer sways under normal driving conditions, something is wrong and must be corrected. The most common cause of sway is improper loading. Weight should be low and centered over the axle with enough forward bias to have a tongue weight equal to 10-12% of the total trailer weight. Proper tow vehicle is a must, and only use WDH/AS Hitches for undersized vehicles. I'm a big fan of the Andersen Aluminum Rapid Hitches, with the 2" & 1 7/8" Reversible Greaseless Balls. Even the balls are made of Aluminum and won't rust up here in the Salt Belt. Best $200 a Scamper can spend. Anyway, great vid's, keep them coming!
@Chris: I don't know why Scamp (and Casita) doesn't improve their products, for sure in the two areas you mentioned that SHOULD be made better/heavier-duty -- axles and frames. And those tiny tires! Really...some things are best left to "that's the way we've always done it" -- if they are ALREADY the best way to do it -- if not, doing it "as we always have" is doing it less-than-best all that time. THOSE things need to change, IMO... -- BR
Thank you so much for this informative video. I picked up my 16’ Scamp in May and have already put 5,000 miles on it visiting family in WI. Driving back home to the PNW, I did have some issues with swaying when big semi trucks would pass me. So I will be having a sway bar installed. I have learned a lot from your videos and want to thank you for making them. Hope all is well with you and your family, and you are able to get out in your Scamp often this summer. Wanda
Had to watch! I need "let's talk" in my driveway, lol, because I don't know anything about my equalizer hitch yet! I have remained ignorant of such things, but now I'm going to be taking off on my own. We're getting there! I'll try to think of questions you could maybe answer on a vlog. Thanks, and enjoy your evening!
Hi. You mention to use a 2" receiver. I'm looking into a 16' standard model, and I'm under the impression that fully loaded we'd be well under 3000', so wouldn't a Class II 1.25" receiver with a 3500lb max be acceptable?
Thank you for the towing info. Do you know anyone who can help me with replacing the floor and frame in my 1977 13' scamp ? I'm in Arizona and can travel to the location to have it worked on.
Very nice sharing ❤️💯💞
Having owned and towed a number of Scamps, here's my take. It's imperative to tow these things level, to much in either direction puts strain on your Axle/Bearings and wears out yours tires much faster and will kill your fridge if running that while towing. Yes, around 18" Ball Height for 13' models and around 20" Ball Height for 16'ers is recommended on NEW Scamps (from ground to top of tow ball). However the lifespan of a typical Scamps Axle is around 15-20 years, and as that Axle starts to age your Scamp will be MUCH lower. Even a year or two old Scamp might require a couple of inches lower than that. I have pulled some mid 70's Scamps on original Axles were the ball was set at around 13" and could have went lower. If you ever see a Scamp passing that looks really low, it needs a new Axle. Best advice, if you own a Scamp, plan on a new Axle every 15 years or so. I'm not a fan of WDH or Anti Sway Hitches with these small lightweight Scamps. The frames on these trailers are not very strong, and they put a bunch of unnecessary stress on the entire trailer. Can lead to increased Spidering in the Gel Coat, have even seen a few with misaligned doors in the shell from extended use. If a trailer sways under normal driving conditions, something is wrong and must be corrected. The most common cause of sway is improper loading. Weight should be low and centered over the axle with enough forward bias to have a tongue weight equal to 10-12% of the total trailer weight. Proper tow vehicle is a must, and only use WDH/AS Hitches for undersized vehicles. I'm a big fan of the Andersen Aluminum Rapid Hitches, with the 2" & 1 7/8" Reversible Greaseless Balls. Even the balls are made of Aluminum and won't rust up here in the Salt Belt. Best $200 a Scamper can spend. Anyway, great vid's, keep them coming!
@Chris:
I don't know why Scamp (and Casita) doesn't improve their products, for sure in the two areas you mentioned that SHOULD be made better/heavier-duty -- axles and frames. And those tiny tires! Really...some things are best left to "that's the way we've always done it" -- if they are ALREADY the best way to do it -- if not, doing it "as we always have" is doing it less-than-best all that time. THOSE things need to change, IMO...
-- BR
I really appreciate your videos as they are helping me become familiar with the RVing. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this informative video.
I picked up my 16’ Scamp in May and have already put 5,000 miles on it visiting family in WI. Driving back home to the PNW, I did have some issues with swaying when big semi trucks would pass me. So I will be having a sway bar installed.
I have learned a lot from your videos and want to thank you for making them.
Hope all is well with you and your family, and you are able to get out in your Scamp often this summer.
Wanda
This was very helpful, especially the section on the height at which to tow your camper and the tongue weight. Excellent content and hope for more.
Had to watch! I need "let's talk" in my driveway, lol, because I don't know anything about my equalizer hitch yet! I have remained ignorant of such things, but now I'm going to be taking off on my own. We're getting there! I'll try to think of questions you could maybe answer on a vlog. Thanks, and enjoy your evening!
Thank and happy travels! God Bless
Hi. You mention to use a 2" receiver. I'm looking into a 16' standard model, and I'm under the impression that fully loaded we'd be well under 3000', so wouldn't a Class II 1.25" receiver with a 3500lb max be acceptable?
Good Video! However, I am interested in installing a 2" hitch receiver on the back of my 1991 13' scamp to receive a bike rack. Thoughts??
Thank you for the towing info. Do you know anyone who can help me with replacing the floor and frame in my 1977 13' scamp ? I'm in Arizona and can travel to the location to have it worked on.
I know Scamp will work on them and replace basically anything for a price. Give them a call. they are located here in MN.
Are the Scamp Trailer and the Escape Trailer made by the same company?
Nope Scamp is its own company. Escape campers are made in Canada I believe. Scamps are made in MN
How tall is a scamp trailer from ground to the top of roof?
Its about 9' from ground to the top of the A/C
@@ourscamplife5210 thank you