Don't forget that in 1972, the auto manufacturers went from gross horsepower to net horsepower ratings, part of the reason that the 1972 model engines "looked" so down in power
That's right. Same power in '72 as '71. People's perception changed due to the rating change which lowered the hp number in '72, but not the power. Lyle mentions he forgot this fact in a comment below. I appreciate his candor.
I'm glad you broke this generation in the three distinct different generations of this generation. Enjoyed part 1 and 2, looking forward to part 3. I have a 69, owned a 77, two of my favorites of those two generations.
Have owned an 80 and a 74 before. Currently have a 71... So I guess I have to watch all three parts.... As if I needed a reason! Really like your videos...watch them all. My son is searching for his first car and he wants it to be a C4. Makes daddy proud...😂
I had a 69 roadster 427/390 in 69. Bought a 70 350/350 loades in 73. Still have it. Painting it right now. Took all the good stuff off the 69 and put it on the 70 and sold the 69. The 70 is a much better car than the 69. Lots of small improvements. Blueprinted the engine 3 years ago. Dropped the compression ratio from 11:1 down to 10:1 and changed the to more torquie one. Great on the street. My son will be getting it someday😊
Actually the horsepower output of the 71 and 72 were identical but in 72 they changed how the HP was presented. In 72 they changed from rating the HP from Gross HP to Net HP. Gross is what the engine produces at the flywheel, Net is what is produced at the rear wheels. So the rear wheel rating of a 71 and 72 are both the same because of the power train losses of 70 HP. 270 - 70 = 200. This change fron Gross to Net HP rating was across the industry.
You are absolutely correct. I still do not understand why people that are in the car business cannot grasp this difference. SAE gross vs net HP ratings. As you said, 71 and 72 motors were virtually identical, the method of rating HP changed. Modern Corvette HP ratings would be much higher if the 71 and prior gross rating system was used.
I love my 68 coupe. No problems finding parts at all. Some are expensive but it’s a labor of love. Don’t plan on owning a classic if you don’t have the time or coin. I brought mine back from the dead and wouldn’t trade her for anything newer.
i will make a prediction.... 73-77...73 will be best, still has chrome rear bumper. 78-82...80 will be the best (not the 305's), last year with no computer controls btw..i have a 79
I loved that removable rear window on my 72. I hardly ever took the T tops off but the back window spent most of it's time stored in that drop down storage tray.
Great review. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe the engine lineup (except for LS6) for 1971 and 1972 were almost exactly the same but they changed horsepower rating methodology so the base engine, LT1 and LS5 are actually the same power.
I have a '68 that was the personal car of an ASE mechanic. A body off intensive restoration, all original, numbers matching 427/390 4-speed coupe, rear exhaust. The factory build quality was as you say, but he reassembled it the right way. I like the one-year-only features, and that it is the first year of its type. I also like that he walked me through every aspect of the car, and what went into it, on and off a lift. Firsthand knowledge, and the receipts to back it up. Try to get that with the average Ebay Vette, or one from a vintage dealer.
I'm very glad that you got a car that had been given so much effort and care! Any car can be excellent if it has been lucky enough to receive that kind of treatment/refurbishment. Enjoy! Lyle
There is no "best" of 'em all that will be universally accepted as the actual "best" but you do have to like those LT-1 cars. I've always thought the SBC powered Corvettes were better over all cars than the Big Block cars. Great thing about today is found in how you can keep the better balanced car with a small block weight between the front fenders and you no longer have to trade away the BIGGER POWER of an old school Big Block to get it. In 1970 no would have believed it to be possible to get a 500HP SBC that wasn't a full on race engine incapable of street driving......yet here we are today with 383s, 400s and even 427 SBC crate engines that make these numbers easily while remaining perfectly street car friendly. Roller cams and computer cut aluminum heads that easily out flow the best of even ported versions of 1970s best iron heads is the big game changer.
Lyle I like this series talking about C3 corvettes . I am really interested in Rubber bumper cars I would love if you could do a deep dive on those cars.
I still love my 68 Convertible… Parts are not difficult to find, just expensive… Restoring it so it will be a Pro touring . Do you think in the near future they will appreciate? Sold my C8 to focus on this and my 77 GMC short bed. Best decision I’ve made…🏁
I own a 68, I would say it isn't true. Lots of aftermarket parts, there is nothing in quality that can't be addressed. Like any c3 as long as there are no rust issues you are golden.
Isaac, I'm certain that your car is extremely nice. I see far too many new buyers buying other '68's (especially at auction) that are really poorly cobbled together and have later parts slapped into them because the "builder" couldn't find the right stuff. Remember, a lot of the folks buying these cars don't have the skill to fix things themselves like you do. Lyle :)
I find the late model 68s are fine. There are multiple sets of parts within a 68. Take the fender molding, for example. Finding late model parts are easy enough. If you have an early model, good luck. Those early model parts are next to impossible to find and I agree with you. Late model 68s can be just as good as a 69.
1968 was the first year for the new body style, there were several production and engineering issues. Chevrolet made many changes in the course of the production year and had them all resolved by April (Late Model). These cars built after April incorporated and resemble the 1969s.
I ran in to an old buddy of mine one time. Hadn't seen him in years. He was sitting in a 68 Corvette waiting for his girlfriend to finish shopping. We talked for a few minutes and I complemented him on his beautiful car. He got out and told me to get in and check it out. As soon as I got in he said "you've got one don't you?" I asked how he knew that. I hadn't said a word about it. He said "I could tell by the way you got in". Mine was a 72.
As others have mentioned in 72, they went to the SAE standard but a lot of models were already starting to experience different horsepower evaluation even as early as 71. It's often a misnomer that people think horsepower ratings dropped. If you take the net horsepower of a 1970 versus the way the power ratings were done from the flywheel at the time, it's really not that much different to 71 72
Lyle, I am sorry to correct you here on the difference between the 71 and the 72. There are absolutely no difference in power. The only difference between these two year models is the color of the front turn indicators (went from clear to orange) and the way to measure power. There is NO DIFFERENCE IN POWER. The difference is that, till 1971, GM was posting the power measured at the shaft of the engine with no accessories connected (water pump, alternator, etc.). All fluids and other utilities were supplied to the engine externally. 1972 is the first year they posted the SAE power i.e., with all accessories connected. So, the engine had to drive the water pump, the alternator, the fuel pump and the like. The drop in the posted power is only the result of the way they measured it. This put aside, power plants did not change between 71 and 72. It did change though, between 70 and 71. I have a 1971 LS5 and the posted power dropped from 390 hp in 70 to 365 in 765 as result of reducing the compression ratio from 10.25:1 to 8.5:1 or so. Guess what? When my engine was rebuilt, the compression ratio was increased 10.25:1, resulting in dyno measurement of a littel over 400 hp.
Being from Canada , the biggest problem with old Corvettes or any old car is rust. Rusty frames, rusty windshield frames and rusty headlight supports. These are expensive problems to fix. Beyond rust is the age of interior components which after 50 years of wear and tear will need to be replace of they have not been already. Vacuum components will need attention too. Thankfully parts and knowledge technicians and enthusiasts are available to help get these cars back into shape.
I agree.....a way over-engineered attempt at trying to hide that part of the vehicle and is an incredible headache as far as repairs go. I've seen some kits installed to make that electric similar to the electric headlight conversions.
I've been a fan of corvettes for as long as I can remember, particularly the c2's and early c3's. Unfortunately finding them in Europe, let alone "good" ones at somewhat affordable prices is very hard. Lately been looking at several c3s, but most that are available are 72-75. Now as said I prefer them just younger 69-70, due to the chrome bumpers and the power they put down. But these are literally 2x (or more) expensive. What options are there to "convert" the more available model years in appearance and power into that 69-70 sweetspot? Is that a doable adventure or one to steer clear off?
Adding power to a C3 is easy--newer, better engine options abound. Changing the look to the 68-72 style is cost prohibitive in a big way--just the fiberglass and chrome and all of the supports and the paint would cost you more than 2 1977 Corvettes...not a good investment. Lyle
Hello Lyle, new Video Idea: How can i see that i have to change my Leaf Spring? Is there any visual Sign where i can see that the Leaf Spring have to be replaced? Thanks
Karl,I have a 1977 corvette,I had to replace my rear leaf spring,You can tell by looking at the rear of the car,If it is sagging,does not look correct,it needs relaced,You can also do a visual check,See if its cracked.Do not drive it like this for long,If it breaks while you are driving,it will destroy the car for sure,Done professionally will be costly,but that is better than a destroyed vehicle.good luck russ
Oh man thankyou for the info you own a vette when your young or old so old i am I will be getting a c 3 and drive from Toronto to keywest but the suspension needs to change shark bite or nemesis and if you would please help me to find the a good dealership to purchase a sweet vette I am open and I think veete first but I love Florida
My favorite years are 1974-1977. My first was an orange '77, I now have a white '76. I have owned it for almost 30 years. I don't care much about power. And my '76 is an automatic. To me a C3 Corvette, especially the '74-'77, is all about looks. It's a cruiser, not a sports car or muscle car. I do like the '68-'72 steel bumper models, but prefer the urethane bumper models. They are sleeker, and look like they have no bumpers. The '73 is a hatchet job, and the '78 and later were completely ruined by that hideous bubbleback window.
There is a common misconception of the power difference between 71 and 72 The engines are virtually identical with the exception on how power was rated
@@danielpepin6752 You will need locate the three letter suffix code on the block. This is stamped into a pad immediately in front of the passenger's side cylinder head. Possible Codes are: CGT (350CI, 270HP, AT), CGZ (350CI, 330HP, MT LT-1), CJK (350CI, 270HP, AT), CJL (350CI, 270HP, MT). If you have an automatic transmission or A/C, it won't be the LT-1. Hope this helps. Lyle
You mislead viewers about horsepower levels of the 72 corvette. You failed to mention the change from brake to net power ratings. The fact is the 71 LS 5 and the 72 LS 5 are exactly the same engines... And in 71 it was rated at 365 HP!
Pat, I'm doing my best to provide free information in a very compressed format. I recognize the fact you bring to light and I probably should have included it...but I had to cut a lot of specifics to scoot in under the 5 minute mark. Lyle
Nothing concerning power levels in any C3 bumps me at all. This is the easiest "fix" in any old car but in C3 Corvettes it's especially UNIMPORTANT, IMO. I'm not looking for a Collectable car. I want something I can actually drive on sunny Sundays. I'm not looking for a 6 or 7 figure bet on the future value of the car going higher that I need to squirrel away in a climate controlled "safe place". When looking at any of these cars my choice of one over another comes down to paint and body alone. This is where I know I can buy either the best car I could hope for or the biggest mistake I'll come to regret later. No reasonably priced C3 Corvette has the power I'd be looking for anyway. So the engine is coming out. Corvettes are EXPENSIVE to paint properly so when looking I always prioritize that piece of the puzzle. For someone else it might be different but for me I know what I can and can't do. Mechanical stuff "easy/peasy".......body and paint? Not-so-much and I know a good job will have to be handed over to a body shop.
You are completely correct in your choice to prioritize paint/body/Interior over the hard mechanicals...those are the least expensive things to change and you can do many of them yourself. Well said. Lyle
Don't forget that in 1972, the auto manufacturers went from gross horsepower to net horsepower ratings, part of the reason that the 1972 model engines "looked" so down in power
That's right. Same power in '72 as '71. People's perception changed due to the rating change which lowered the hp number in '72, but not the power. Lyle mentions he forgot this fact in a comment below. I appreciate his candor.
I'm glad you broke this generation in the three distinct different generations of this generation. Enjoyed part 1 and 2, looking forward to part 3. I have a 69, owned a 77, two of my favorites of those two generations.
I have a 77 vette,Iam looking forward to part 2 .
Same here
77 is outkast for me
Have owned an 80 and a 74 before. Currently have a 71... So I guess I have to watch all three parts.... As if I needed a reason!
Really like your videos...watch them all.
My son is searching for his first car and he wants it to be a C4. Makes daddy proud...😂
I trully love the c3 videos for sure,PLEASE,more more, more .russ
I had a 69 roadster 427/390 in 69. Bought a 70 350/350 loades in 73. Still have it. Painting it right now. Took all the good stuff off the 69 and put it on the 70 and sold the 69. The 70 is a much better car than the 69. Lots of small improvements. Blueprinted the engine 3 years ago. Dropped the compression ratio from 11:1 down to 10:1 and changed the to more torquie one. Great on the street.
My son will be getting it someday😊
77E owner here. Bring on part 2.
I personally own a 1980 c3 so I am excited for part 3!!!
go and change yours with a bumper car mabey a 1973 ull be more exited for the amount of money ull get back from investing in them
Actually the horsepower output of the 71 and 72 were identical but in 72 they changed how the HP was presented. In 72 they changed from rating the HP from Gross HP to Net HP. Gross is what the engine produces at the flywheel, Net is what is produced at the rear wheels. So the rear wheel rating of a 71 and 72 are both the same because of the power train losses of 70 HP. 270 - 70 = 200. This change fron Gross to Net HP rating was across the industry.
You are absolutely correct. I still do not understand why people that are in the car business cannot grasp this difference. SAE gross vs net HP ratings. As you said, 71 and 72 motors were virtually identical, the method of rating HP changed. Modern Corvette HP ratings would be much higher if the 71 and prior gross rating system was used.
Keep the videos coming. I’ve got a 68 and a 76. Love them both.
I would agree that 1969 is my favourite year for the C3 corvette.
I wish I had a C3 Corvette.
I am looking forward to all the 3 parts of the C3 evolution. Thank you.
I love my 68 coupe. No problems finding parts at all. Some are expensive but it’s a labor of love. Don’t plan on owning a classic if you don’t have the time or coin. I brought mine back from the dead and wouldn’t trade her for anything newer.
i like 1969 because of the gills i the sides...
please keep the videos comming!
i will make a prediction....
73-77...73 will be best, still has chrome rear bumper.
78-82...80 will be the best (not the 305's), last year with no computer controls
btw..i have a 79
I liked the gills of the 70-72 , the chrome external feature i liked, more than the multi slots of the 68/69 or the single like the 73 onwards
I loved that removable rear window on my 72.
I hardly ever took the T tops off but the back window spent most of it's time stored in that drop down storage tray.
I have a 1970. It will stay in the family.
Always liked the 70!
Lyle your video's Rock really enjoyed the C3 & C4 buyers guide...looking forward watching the other classes
72 was the last year not only for the chrome front bumper but also for the removable rear window.
Awesome information and video content. It helps a lot man !!!
Great review. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe the engine lineup (except for LS6) for 1971 and 1972 were almost exactly the same but they changed horsepower rating methodology so the base engine, LT1 and LS5 are actually the same power.
you are correct. I had forgotten the change in methodology. Lyle
I have a '68 that was the personal car of an ASE mechanic. A body off intensive restoration, all original, numbers matching 427/390 4-speed coupe, rear exhaust. The factory build quality
was as you say, but he reassembled it the right way. I like the one-year-only features, and that it is the first year of its type. I also like that he walked me through every aspect of the car, and what went into it, on and off a lift. Firsthand knowledge, and the receipts to back it up. Try to get that with the average Ebay Vette, or one from a vintage dealer.
I'm very glad that you got a car that had been given so much effort and care! Any car can be excellent if it has been lucky enough to receive that kind of treatment/refurbishment. Enjoy! Lyle
You forgot to mention the best of them all. The 1970-1972 LT1's.. .
There is no "best" of 'em all that will be universally accepted as the actual "best" but you do have to like those LT-1 cars. I've always thought the SBC powered Corvettes were better over all cars than the Big Block cars. Great thing about today is found in how you can keep the better balanced car with a small block weight between the front fenders and you no longer have to trade away the BIGGER POWER of an old school Big Block to get it. In 1970 no would have believed it to be possible to get a 500HP SBC that wasn't a full on race engine incapable of street driving......yet here we are today with 383s, 400s and even 427 SBC crate engines that make these numbers easily while remaining perfectly street car friendly. Roller cams and computer cut aluminum heads that easily out flow the best of even ported versions of 1970s best iron heads is the big game changer.
Lyle I like this series talking about C3 corvettes . I am really interested in Rubber bumper cars I would love if you could do a deep dive on those cars.
Thanks for posting
I still love my 68 Convertible…
Parts are not difficult to find, just expensive…
Restoring it so it will be a Pro touring .
Do you think in the near future they will appreciate?
Sold my C8 to focus on this and my 77 GMC short bed.
Best decision I’ve made…🏁
I had a 1972 LT-1
Great video...
I own a 68, I would say it isn't true. Lots of aftermarket parts, there is nothing in quality that can't be addressed. Like any c3 as long as there are no rust issues you are golden.
Isaac, I'm certain that your car is extremely nice. I see far too many new buyers buying other '68's (especially at auction) that are really poorly cobbled together and have later parts slapped into them because the "builder" couldn't find the right stuff. Remember, a lot of the folks buying these cars don't have the skill to fix things themselves like you do. Lyle :)
I find the late model 68s are fine. There are multiple sets of parts within a 68. Take the fender molding, for example. Finding late model parts are easy enough. If you have an early model, good luck. Those early model parts are next to impossible to find and I agree with you. Late model 68s can be just as good as a 69.
I own a 81 and lv it
1968 must have been a weird time at GM. The '68 Nova also had a lot of one-year-only stuff going on, particularly with the dashboard.
1968 was the first year for the new body style, there were several production and engineering issues. Chevrolet made many changes in the course of the production year and had them all resolved by April (Late Model). These cars built after April incorporated and resemble the 1969s.
I think the C3 is the most difficult to into and out of
I ran in to an old buddy of mine one time. Hadn't seen him in years. He was sitting in a 68 Corvette waiting for his girlfriend to finish shopping.
We talked for a few minutes and I complemented him on his beautiful car. He got out and told me to get in and check it out. As soon as I got in he said "you've got one don't you?"
I asked how he knew that. I hadn't said a word about it.
He said "I could tell by the way you got in".
Mine was a 72.
As others have mentioned in 72, they went to the SAE standard but a lot of models were already starting to experience different horsepower evaluation even as early as 71. It's often a misnomer that people think horsepower ratings dropped. If you take the net horsepower of a 1970 versus the way the power ratings were done from the flywheel at the time, it's really not that much different to 71 72
I bought a New 1970 Corvette and the AC worked Great! It had a AC vent under the Steering Column that would freeze Your balls off! LOL
Lyle, I am sorry to correct you here on the difference between the 71 and the 72. There are absolutely no difference in power. The only difference between these two year models is the color of the front turn indicators (went from clear to orange) and the way to measure power. There is NO DIFFERENCE IN POWER. The difference is that, till 1971, GM was posting the power measured at the shaft of the engine with no accessories connected (water pump, alternator, etc.). All fluids and other utilities were supplied to the engine externally. 1972 is the first year they posted the SAE power i.e., with all accessories connected. So, the engine had to drive the water pump, the alternator, the fuel pump and the like. The drop in the posted power is only the result of the way they measured it. This put aside, power plants did not change between 71 and 72.
It did change though, between 70 and 71. I have a 1971 LS5 and the posted power dropped from 390 hp in 70 to 365 in 765 as result of reducing the compression ratio from 10.25:1 to 8.5:1 or so. Guess what? When my engine was rebuilt, the compression ratio was increased 10.25:1, resulting in dyno measurement of a littel over 400 hp.
He admits the error in a comment here. Straight up guy.
Good job man
Being from Canada , the biggest problem with old Corvettes or any old car is rust. Rusty frames, rusty windshield frames and rusty headlight supports. These are expensive problems to fix. Beyond rust is the age of interior components which after 50 years of wear and tear will need to be replace of they have not been already. Vacuum components will need attention too.
Thankfully parts and knowledge technicians and enthusiasts are available to help get these cars back into shape.
Vacuum components are a nightmare. Lots of electric conversion kits though.
Those pop-up windshield wipers were a mess!
I agree.....a way over-engineered attempt at trying to hide that part of the vehicle and is an incredible headache as far as repairs go. I've seen some kits installed to make that electric similar to the electric headlight conversions.
@@TheTaxreliever The best aftermarket item for a 68 without question.
I've been a fan of corvettes for as long as I can remember, particularly the c2's and early c3's.
Unfortunately finding them in Europe, let alone "good" ones at somewhat affordable prices is very hard. Lately been looking at several c3s, but most that are available are 72-75. Now as said I prefer them just younger 69-70, due to the chrome bumpers and the power they put down. But these are literally 2x (or more) expensive.
What options are there to "convert" the more available model years in appearance and power into that 69-70 sweetspot?
Is that a doable adventure or one to steer clear off?
Adding power to a C3 is easy--newer, better engine options abound. Changing the look to the 68-72 style is cost prohibitive in a big way--just the fiberglass and chrome and all of the supports and the paint would cost you more than 2 1977 Corvettes...not a good investment. Lyle
@@csvette Thank you for explaining that! I'll just have to save up some more and get what I really want.
Cheers!
Hello Lyle, new Video Idea:
How can i see that i have to change my Leaf Spring?
Is there any visual Sign where i can see that the Leaf Spring have to be replaced?
Thanks
Karl,I have a 1977 corvette,I had to replace my rear leaf spring,You can tell by looking at the rear of the car,If it is sagging,does not look correct,it needs relaced,You can also do a visual check,See if its cracked.Do not drive it like this for long,If it breaks while you are driving,it will destroy the car for sure,Done professionally will be costly,but that is better than a destroyed vehicle.good luck russ
Oh man thankyou for the info you own a vette when your young or old so old i am I will be getting a c 3 and drive from Toronto to keywest but the suspension needs to change shark bite or nemesis and if you would please help me to find the a good dealership to purchase a sweet vette I am open and I think veete first but I love Florida
My favorite years are 1974-1977. My first was an orange '77, I now have a white '76. I have owned it for almost 30 years. I don't care much about power. And my '76 is an automatic. To me a C3 Corvette, especially the '74-'77, is all about looks. It's a cruiser, not a sports car or muscle car. I do like the '68-'72 steel bumper models, but prefer the urethane bumper models. They are sleeker, and look like they have no bumpers. The '73 is a hatchet job, and the '78 and later were completely ruined by that hideous bubbleback window.
1970 is the best,,, because I own one.
Great information, you did not mention the flaring of the fenders in the early years of the C3. In what year did that happen?? Thx again:)
70
I would hold out for the 1983. How many own the 1983 corvette?
Ha ha....
My favorites, in this order, 69, 77, and 83.
I own an 83....A Chevette
I own 5 83s
There is a common misconception of the power difference between 71 and 72
The engines are virtually identical with the exception on how power was rated
Great Video ✌️
How to tell what code number is my 71 with a 350 Is there an easy way 🤔
Daniel, which code are you trying to ascertain? Lyle
@@lyleaulwurm9486 Lt 1, L46 or other code number, that is what i am trying to determine
Thanks
@@danielpepin6752 You will need locate the three letter suffix code on the block. This is stamped into a pad immediately in front of the passenger's side cylinder head. Possible Codes are: CGT (350CI, 270HP, AT), CGZ (350CI, 330HP, MT LT-1), CJK (350CI, 270HP, AT), CJL (350CI, 270HP, MT). If you have an automatic transmission or A/C, it won't be the LT-1. Hope this helps. Lyle
@@lyleaulwurm9486 thanks you 👍
You mislead viewers about horsepower levels of the 72 corvette. You failed to mention the change from brake to net power ratings. The fact is the 71 LS 5 and the 72 LS 5 are exactly the same engines... And in 71 it was rated at 365 HP!
Pat, I'm doing my best to provide free information in a very compressed format. I recognize the fact you bring to light and I probably should have included it...but I had to cut a lot of specifics to scoot in under the 5 minute mark. Lyle
Thanks.. 👍🇺🇸
@@truebetold65 🇺🇲👎🏻
@@ragnarlothbrok6324 you must be a rainbow
Shoulda put up a pic of each year car
Had a 72 lt1 kick myself for selling it
Beautiful car 🇺🇸👍
C7 pls
The 1975 rear end was the best but the 1980 C3 had the best front end , PERIOD !
👍
+1 on the '68. Never buy the first model year of a next gen car. They're like beta-models
Giggity giggity goo 2:33
Nothing concerning power levels in any C3 bumps me at all. This is the easiest "fix" in any old car but in C3 Corvettes it's especially UNIMPORTANT, IMO. I'm not looking for a Collectable car. I want something I can actually drive on sunny Sundays. I'm not looking for a 6 or 7 figure bet on the future value of the car going higher that I need to squirrel away in a climate controlled "safe place". When looking at any of these cars my choice of one over another comes down to paint and body alone. This is where I know I can buy either the best car I could hope for or the biggest mistake I'll come to regret later. No reasonably priced C3 Corvette has the power I'd be looking for anyway. So the engine is coming out. Corvettes are EXPENSIVE to paint properly so when looking I always prioritize that piece of the puzzle. For someone else it might be different but for me I know what I can and can't do. Mechanical stuff "easy/peasy".......body and paint? Not-so-much and I know a good job will have to be handed over to a body shop.
You are completely correct in your choice to prioritize paint/body/Interior over the hard mechanicals...those are the least expensive things to change and you can do many of them yourself. Well said. Lyle
'68-'72 are OK. otherwise, Junk!
now now