if you do not mine me give my opinion..... i was a starter and alternator rebuilder in 80. did it for 6 years .and i have notice that there was lot of bad solenoid after market out there..... that fail by cause water and dirt getting inside. the best one were the oem they were better seal and new.i think the best would be a heat shield of metal thine between the starter and catalyzer it would cut the heat a lot.
Did this resolve the hot start issue? I did a starter wrap after headers and thought I had it fixed. We was at a state park and between the slow driving and stop and go. The car got hot and the slow crank showed up. It’s seriously annoying. I found pooping the hood to let heat out helped tremendously on the cool down time. This year I’m gonna come up with a metal deflector, add hood vents, and see how that goes. If it doesn’t cure it. Might drive it into a lake.
Owens Racing mine has a brand new one, I’m heads cammed arh headers... overheated on a 50min drive🤦♂️ but I’m gonna wrap it with this same wrap/blanket but I think the solution to this is using the wrap alongside a shield sTainless steel
Froggy, you're a legend. We had C5's and C6 Z06's at the same time. So, regarding the starter, what has been the verdict on your end? I got a 2012 that starts fine cold but the usual, when hot it does not like to crank. Wondering if my best first step is to wrap one of these shields.
I would first verify that the lugs are sound on the starter, then ALL elec. connections are correct/clean/tight. Then wrap everything near by. Let m know how it goes, mine is fine since I did all.
It "stands off" a little from the starter so that some air can circulate, works decently so far. If GM were smarter rather than cheaper a high torque starter would have worked fine. Froggy
@@1947froggy I have to remove the catalytic converters on my 88 Thunderbird with a 347 Stroker. I have to tap the starter when it is hot to make it turn over. It started doing that after I installed a 8.8 rear end with a 373:1 gear ratio. It had the factory 7.5 in it before with 245:1. The higher gear ratio produces more heat.
@@1947froggy Heat Soak actually occurs after about 10 minutes when the engine is shut off. Especially after driving in 90* heat, in traffic, with temp gauge at 215-220. You pull up to a store, park on hot pavement, shut the engine off, the engine temp goes up a few more degrees. Heat permeates under the car from cats, mufflers, pipes, plus the engine temp, and takes out the starter. You come out 20 minutes later and you get nothing from the starter.
Hello Froggy, I have been reading your forum post regarding starter heat shield. I just recently purchased a 2013 60th Anniversary LS7 Corvette with just 6,400 miles. I have noticed that it starts well when cold but when it warms up after driving it for awhile and after turning it off, I noticed the starter has difficulty on starting back on. I just ordered the heat shield from Design Engineering to installed it. My question is, will this resolve the hot starting issue? Also I've read post on the starter positive cable that bolts onto the starter being loose from factory. is this true? Other than that, this car runs awesome. Do you have a telephone number I can call you if you don't mind?
I did the heat shield and new starter (the starter lug was loose as it stuck out of the starter so no way to fix that, so far as I know, also always ensure your battery cables are 100% on/clean/tight & battery is GOOD. That should fix it. Don't take calls, sorry. Busy life. Really GM needed to put a better/proper starter in this ls7 pkg, but what do I know? I only use it every day. Maybe would have cost $10 a starter to go better.
Have you ever removed a starter on a car with long tubes? My LS3 is dead and I’m wondering how tough this is going to be with long tubes. Car will be getting towed here in the morning.
I loosened the header and attached pipe including the cat. If the LT's do not have a cat you could have an easier time than me, otherwise you need to loosen and/or remove the LT's.
Hey froggy, got here from the forums. Do you know what size shield you used? They have a 5” and a 7”. Thanks!
Not 100% sure but it really looks more like 7 than 5. You could fold it if too long.
@@1947froggy thanks for the quick reply! I’ll get it ordere
@@AsinineAlecwas it too long? I’m having the same issue
@@SelimxBradley mine was too long and I ended up trimming it back
@@AsinineAlec I think I will opt for the 5” version then. Thank you for the quick reply!
if you do not mine me give my opinion..... i was a starter and alternator rebuilder in 80. did it for 6 years .and i have notice that there was lot of bad solenoid after market out there..... that fail by cause water and dirt getting inside. the best one were the oem they were better seal and new.i think the best would be a heat shield of metal thine between the starter and catalyzer it would cut the heat a lot.
Thanks Dan.
:)
Did this resolve the hot start issue?
I did a starter wrap after headers and thought I had it fixed. We was at a state park and between the slow driving and stop and go. The car got hot and the slow crank showed up.
It’s seriously annoying. I found pooping the hood to let heat out helped tremendously on the cool down time.
This year I’m gonna come up with a metal deflector, add hood vents, and see how that goes. If it doesn’t cure it. Might drive it into a lake.
So far it's working.
froggy fingers crossed for you man.
Owens Racing mine has a brand new one, I’m heads cammed arh headers... overheated on a 50min drive🤦♂️ but I’m gonna wrap it with this same wrap/blanket but I think the solution to this is using the wrap alongside a shield sTainless steel
Froggy, you're a legend. We had C5's and C6 Z06's at the same time. So, regarding the starter, what has been the verdict on your end? I got a 2012 that starts fine cold but the usual, when hot it does not like to crank. Wondering if my best first step is to wrap one of these shields.
I would first verify that the lugs are sound on the starter, then ALL elec. connections are correct/clean/tight. Then wrap everything near by. Let m know how it goes, mine is fine since I did all.
Sometimes it works, but that wrap can keep heat in the starter.
It "stands off" a little from the starter so that some air can circulate, works decently so far. If GM were smarter rather than cheaper a high torque starter would have worked fine. Froggy
@@1947froggy I have to remove the catalytic converters on my 88 Thunderbird with a 347 Stroker. I have to tap the starter when it is hot to make it turn over. It started doing that after I installed a 8.8 rear end with a 373:1 gear ratio. It had the factory 7.5 in it before with 245:1. The higher gear ratio produces more heat.
@@Celticman197 Sounds sweet!
@@1947froggy Heat Soak actually occurs after about 10 minutes when the engine is shut off. Especially after driving in 90* heat, in traffic, with temp gauge at 215-220. You pull up to a store, park on hot pavement, shut the engine off, the engine temp goes up a few more degrees. Heat permeates under the car from cats, mufflers, pipes, plus the engine temp, and takes out the starter. You come out 20 minutes later and you get nothing from the starter.
@@Celticman197 Yep, that's about right. Mine better since I wrapped/insulated everything, but still it's slower turn over, but still starts, just.
Hello Froggy, I have been reading your forum post regarding starter heat shield. I just recently purchased a 2013 60th Anniversary LS7 Corvette with just 6,400 miles. I have noticed that it starts well when cold but when it warms up after driving it for awhile and after turning it off, I noticed the starter has difficulty on starting back on. I just ordered the heat shield from Design Engineering to installed it. My question is, will this resolve the hot starting issue? Also I've read post on the starter positive cable that bolts onto the starter being loose from factory. is this true? Other than that, this car runs awesome.
Do you have a telephone number I can call you if you don't mind?
I did the heat shield and new starter (the starter lug was loose as it stuck out of the starter so no way to fix that, so far as I know, also always ensure your battery cables are 100% on/clean/tight & battery is GOOD. That should fix it. Don't take calls, sorry. Busy life. Really GM needed to put a better/proper starter in this ls7 pkg, but what do I know? I only use it every day. Maybe would have cost $10 a starter to go better.
Have you ever removed a starter on a car with long tubes? My LS3 is dead and I’m wondering how tough this is going to be with long tubes. Car will be getting towed here in the morning.
I loosened the header and attached pipe including the cat. If the LT's do not have a cat you could have an easier time than me, otherwise you need to loosen and/or remove the LT's.
Not all long tubes are the same. ARH 1.875” didn’t require loosening or removal to swap starters.
Owens Racing stainless works long tubes did require head removal.
Leif Hurst I’m confused as to why you would need to remove the head? I’m betting that I’m not understanding what you’re saying.