My man can you please share the speeds and feeds, and that end mill type? I've tried cutting aluminum on my homebrew machine but get awful chatter and horrible cutting whenever I try.
Make sure you're using 3 flute, or less, endmills when machining softer materials. He mentioned using a single flute finish mill at one point, but I'd opt for 2. Only cut about 10 percent of your endmills diameter to start, and whatever tooling you buy should have surface feet and inches or millimeters per revolution ranges for different materials right on the packaging. Use those values to find your feeds and speeds using the formulas
I love watching how you work around the limitations of what you have available. It's a testament of what you can achieve with what you already have! I love the chamfers on everything!
Yay! New Winston video day! Looks awesome! Love the use of what looks to be the S4/S5 extrusions under the bed. The Hybrid Bed works so great, so I'm glad to see it happening on your machine.
Was it a scrap build from parts you had laying around to bootstrap a CNC? Otherwise I'd have gone for ball screws and linear rails instead of those delrin rollers on V track and belts. With ball screws you'd have plenty of power to use even heavier and stiffer materials like steel tubing. I also dislike the Z axis sticking out so much under the gantry, seems such a waste for Z travel. In my latest build I've made sure the Z axis parts don't stick out under the gantry. There are times I really needed the 200+mm of Z travel to clear some high features under the gantry. Looking forward to the bits and bobs you've added to this build!
wiiiiinnnnnnnsssstoooonnnnn my boy my boy winston, you gotta make more symmetrical stuff, the internet loves that ohhhh god this is gonna be a rabbit hole there goes two hours
Glad to see your making videos again. If your still working at Shapeoko, get rid of the actor presenting equipment and software.. No offense to him. Seriously. You have a genuine charisma , and authenticity that customers highly like and prefer to watch.
I’ll have a shapeoko 3 upgrade kit ready in the next few weeks. Saved the same 3 parts as you. Started with the shapeoko 3 and got the xxl upgrade so the kit was made to bring the original back to life and once done repeatable to work with all 3 sizes of the shapeoko 3. Ball screws and linear rails and a complete z axis with 5” travel are all being added.
I am new to this... but fanuc robots have a "User Frame" feature that orients the X and Y axis. in case an object is facing a funky direction... does cnc software have that feature?
Nice video. Glad to see you posting more again! FYI Adam was Dr. Frankenstein's monster. Ip So Facto you are creating the machine so it would be called the Adam-oko.
3D manual/digital probes or edge finders make finding parts fixtured in a random location and orientation easy. Takes 2 (3, or 4 for sanity checks) points per face then using X,Y coordinates to constrain points in CAD to adjust stock in CAD to match location in reality.
Nice project, I also justify "saving" a day's work to modify or build a new tool (but we all know it's gonna take 10x the time that you are saving) ;) ! I designed and built a larger scale CNC Router and adding weight is indead a commun pratice, I must have 200kg / 440 lbs of sand in my fixed frame, that's why we love old cast iron machine, they are rigid and heavy so result in less vibrations and a nicer cut quality. You might be able to justify that the gantry doesn't need to be full of sand since it's weight might reduce your cut speed, especialy if you are limited in stepper power/size, belt size or that your linear motion system isn't rigid enough (like you said) but there's absolutly no need to reduce the weight of the fixed axis rail in my opinion ! In the end, It would be very interesting do get a side by side "sound" and speed (acceleration) comparaison between a standard machine and one that's been "lighten" !
It made me smile to hear you justify various decisions while ignoring tiny problems yet almost in the same breath you used tiny problems to justify other decisions. Hope you got some stainless shim stock.
Did your 1/4inch end mill leave a corner radius in the bottom of the hex pockets? I think I skimmed those isogrid docs you glossed over and they recommended a corner radius for strength and reducing stress risers.
There's not intentionally a corner radius besides cutter wear, but you're absolutely right. I actually had corner radiused 1/8" endmills on order for my isogrid coaster project, but got too lazy to load them into the Datron. Note to self: Make that change before sending a coaster to space.
..no...tell and show us all the technical details...we're not here for gossip and chat, we want to see and hear a knowledgeable person doing their thing...
Why didn’t the tool break immediately after you said zero margin for error? This video is clearly faked things don’t just work.
So cool. I have been "weighting" for this for a long time. The chamfers made it perfect! #teamchamfer
"my evil plans." 😃
If Euclid was a machinist he'd have positioned the stock by using two precision dowel pins.
My man can you please share the speeds and feeds, and that end mill type? I've tried cutting aluminum on my homebrew machine but get awful chatter and horrible cutting whenever I try.
Make sure you're using 3 flute, or less, endmills when machining softer materials. He mentioned using a single flute finish mill at one point, but I'd opt for 2. Only cut about 10 percent of your endmills diameter to start, and whatever tooling you buy should have surface feet and inches or millimeters per revolution ranges for different materials right on the packaging. Use those values to find your feeds and speeds using the formulas
Timestamp 8:46
So excited for this project! Also, I can't unsee the VORON bottom skirts in that X beam. Hexagons are Bestagons.
the other good part of a skin is not getting chips inside your frame
Yes! Winston! Back to your roots. I'm sure the folks at carbide will understand. Thanks for the efforts
Came out looking super cool. Nice to see you back.
Glad to see you back always enjoy and learn from your videos.
Great to see that after any amount of time, you are still taking things to the next level of detail! Keep it going, brother
I love watching how you work around the limitations of what you have available. It's a testament of what you can achieve with what you already have! I love the chamfers on everything!
Yay! New Winston video day!
Looks awesome! Love the use of what looks to be the S4/S5 extrusions under the bed. The Hybrid Bed works so great, so I'm glad to see it happening on your machine.
Ahhh, like the many others...Its so nice to see you back! We all missed you. Project looks amazing, like always. 😊
The only reason you mentioned for frakenoko is that it will fit in your enclosure. So that is it's entire purpose.
Was it a scrap build from parts you had laying around to bootstrap a CNC? Otherwise I'd have gone for ball screws and linear rails instead of those delrin rollers on V track and belts. With ball screws you'd have plenty of power to use even heavier and stiffer materials like steel tubing.
I also dislike the Z axis sticking out so much under the gantry, seems such a waste for Z travel. In my latest build I've made sure the Z axis parts don't stick out under the gantry. There are times I really needed the 200+mm of Z travel to clear some high features under the gantry.
Looking forward to the bits and bobs you've added to this build!
People like you make my brain hurt. 😂 Just kidding. Great work, awesome detail. Thank you for sharing your genius.
Wow, you do a good job! We can supply the CNC cutter with the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
For a moment there, I thought you were going to make parts to widen your enclosure by two inches.
Nothing's quite that simple, eh?
wiiiiinnnnnnnsssstoooonnnnn my boy
my boy winston, you gotta make more symmetrical stuff, the internet loves that
ohhhh god this is gonna be a rabbit hole there goes two hours
Glad to see your making videos again. If your still working at Shapeoko, get rid of the actor presenting equipment and software.. No offense to him. Seriously. You have a genuine charisma , and authenticity that customers highly like and prefer to watch.
I’ll have a shapeoko 3 upgrade kit ready in the next few weeks. Saved the same 3 parts as you. Started with the shapeoko 3 and got the xxl upgrade so the kit was made to bring the original back to life and once done repeatable to work with all 3 sizes of the shapeoko 3. Ball screws and linear rails and a complete z axis with 5” travel are all being added.
Sounds like a pretty solid upgrade. Are you planning on switching out the controller? Or trying to keep as much original stuff as possible?
hmm any reason im not able to save this video to a playlist?
I am new to this... but fanuc robots have a "User Frame" feature that orients the X and Y axis. in case an object is facing a funky direction... does cnc software have that feature?
Some CNCs can adjust for rotation but most lower end machines cannot.
10:44 I came here to watch the drama! Not. Coming back if you don't show the broken endmills and ruined parts
I will try to make sure something goes wrong in the next video.
Nice video. Glad to see you posting more again!
FYI Adam was Dr. Frankenstein's monster. Ip So Facto you are creating the machine so it would be called the Adam-oko.
Huh, that's a valid point... OR this machine goes on to create even more cursed creations... 🤔
@@WinstonMakes lol thats a great point too!
3D manual/digital probes or edge finders make finding parts fixtured in a random location and orientation easy. Takes 2 (3, or 4 for sanity checks) points per face then using X,Y coordinates to constrain points in CAD to adjust stock in CAD to match location in reality.
Nice project, I also justify "saving" a day's work to modify or build a new tool (but we all know it's gonna take 10x the time that you are saving) ;) ! I designed and built a larger scale CNC Router and adding weight is indead a commun pratice, I must have 200kg / 440 lbs of sand in my fixed frame, that's why we love old cast iron machine, they are rigid and heavy so result in less vibrations and a nicer cut quality. You might be able to justify that the gantry doesn't need to be full of sand since it's weight might reduce your cut speed, especialy if you are limited in stepper power/size, belt size or that your linear motion system isn't rigid enough (like you said) but there's absolutly no need to reduce the weight of the fixed axis rail in my opinion ! In the end, It would be very interesting do get a side by side "sound" and speed (acceleration) comparaison between a standard machine and one that's been "lighten" !
That is so pretty
she's a beaut.
Great to see you working on this project. Some cool tips for folks along the way as well. Looking forward to the next steps!
Looks fantastic Winston!
Outstanding!
It made me smile to hear you justify various decisions while ignoring tiny problems yet almost in the same breath you used tiny problems to justify other decisions. Hope you got some stainless shim stock.
P r o m o s m
Awesome!
So cool, looks amazing, Love the videos man, keep up the great work.
You used to be able to buy the extrusion as an upgrade, is that no longer the case?
Upgrade kits to covert to a larger machine were discontinued last year I believe.
@@WinstonMakes that is a shame, a real shame.
I'm excited about this project!
When is the next exciting episode of CNC desicration ?
Hopefully August. Got a video about my experience touring NASA Ames next week, and then more Frankenoko stuff to follow!
@@WinstonMakes brilliant, I look forward to seeing them !!
👍😎👍
Did your 1/4inch end mill leave a corner radius in the bottom of the hex pockets? I think I skimmed those isogrid docs you glossed over and they recommended a corner radius for strength and reducing stress risers.
There's not intentionally a corner radius besides cutter wear, but you're absolutely right. I actually had corner radiused 1/8" endmills on order for my isogrid coaster project, but got too lazy to load them into the Datron.
Note to self: Make that change before sending a coaster to space.
cool video. thanks Winston!
I love those clamps did you make them?
I didn't. They're the Tiger Claw line by Carbide3D, though they've now been superseded by Crush-It clamps.
@@WinstonMakesThank you!
Looks really cool! ❤
welcome back!!
wizard
..no...tell and show us all the technical details...we're not here for gossip and chat, we want to see and hear a knowledgeable person doing their thing...
0:38 - have you ever tried a CNC which is not shapeoko? this might solve all your shitbrand endorser "problems" )