Great video John I've been soldering a long time, but you never stop learning, especially from someone with your experience. Hope that leg of yours is getting better. Keep up the cool videos. 🇺🇸☝️
Well John, I saw this about 6 hours too late.... I'm in the process of converting everything to XT-60s, so I can be one of the cool kids!! 😛 .... I've been Soldering for a long time, and have been replacing Batry Plugs, since getting rid of Tamiya Plugs in the early 90's. Today I learned THAT DOESN'T make me an expert by any means!!! 😱 I DID melt one of the pins on the Plug!! If that was the worst thing to happen, it would have been embarrassing... BUT, in my haste, I reversed the leads to the Plug! I didn't realize that, until I went to plug it into my Rig. INSTANT SMOKE! Fortunately, I didn't ruin one of only 3 of my ESCs... But I destroyed my ONLY 3S Batry!!!! 😫😭😭😔 Yes, no big deal for nearly everyone else, but I can't afford to replace it. 😔 Expensive lesson on being careful and double checking. Now I'm kinda screwed. On a better note, that tip you gave. I didn't know that those posts TWIST. Lining those up would have made it quite a bit easier!! I'll remember that. Carmine 🚂 🚙
i just installed my 1800kv revolver motor in my trx4 after watching this video on how to solder and it is by far my favorite motor i have tired thanks so much!
Thank youuu! I've taught myself how to solder from youtube rc tutorials and I didnt really notice everyone was holding the iron to the wire or object, and not putting the solder on the tip of the iron, my tip is all deformed and chunks taken out of it, it still works but I read itll stop soon because that special material will run out on the tip eventually but it's a 30$ iron, then I'll upgrade to adjustable temp one. Appreciate it and soon going to get the 380 "weevolver" motor for my sons losi mini rock crawler. Nobody Carrie's 18th scale motors...well besides cheap chinese knockoffs. Love the vids brotha! Very inspiring!
I always pre-tin the tip...it really shortens the heat-transfer. I might soder a few dozen times a year and I'll get 5+ years out of a tip. So no concern here about a shorter tip life. Great vid as always. I'm almost out of soder so I'll be by the site in a little while.
I use a TK955 station. I bump it up to 800w with 12 gauge wire and melts the solder in 3 to 4 seconds you don't have to hold it there for long and you won't melt your plugs.👍🏻🔥😎🔥🤙🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you sir! I’m learn to solder to put your 380 revolver on to a Castle sidewinder micro. The bullet connectors on the esc a bigger then I need for the motor.
Great video man. Out of all the R/C channels I subscribe to yours is my favorite because you go into great detail of the topic which is great for me because I'm still an amateur in the R/C world. I recently upgraded both of my TRX4 rigs from the stock motor to your trail master 550 21T motors and plan on later in the season to upgrade one of my rigs to brushless. Love the vids man keep 'em coming.
Yes, number 1 rule when working with batteries, especially LiPO batteries ~ Isolate & Insulate. One polarity at a time. If the 2 polarities connect, within few seconds LiPO will turn into quite a big fireball.
Now i can solder deans to my batteres for my airsoft guns. Of course i dont want to use these connectoes. They"re fine for rc's and drones but not airsoft. I also heard is a good idea to use flux core.
FYI, Solder is the best thing for your iron tip unless you have some real crummy solder. The solder protects your tip from oxidising and here is the key, it gives a larger surface area to TRANSFER HEAT. Your 45 seconds to solder one wire to the plug should of been 5 seconds, all because you think adding solder to your tip is bad. Also touch the pretined solder tip to both wire and plug, wam bam 5 seconds thank you mam. Also, when your soldering, the tip should be smoking, what do I mean, the rosin is what keeps the solder and metal from oxidizing from the heat, this is why you always add solder to the tip right before you solder. Right after soldering, dont be a rookie and wipe that nice extra solder off the tip and put the iron back in the holder, that solder is what is protecting the tip. Then when you need the iron, you wipe the tip clean from the gray oxidized solder and add fresh solder. 63/37 solder is the best solder, it has the lowest melting point, then 60/40, I never use that no lead crap. FYI, I solder professionally, DIP, Flat pack, QFN, BGA, CSA packages.
Solder is fine to add directly to the tip when it isn't flux cored. Flux eats away at the tip though, especially at lead free temps which you evidently dont use. Its a tough line to ride. I have a bag full of pitted ruined tips from before I modified my routine. Once I stopped shoving solder directly on the tip I started getting years out of the tips instead of weeks. you solder "professionally" and use leaded? Do tell what professional outfit does this .
@@HolmesHobbies They dont just pay me to solder, it's just part of the job building prototypes, troubleshooting customer applications that use our IC's, validation and product engineering, I do wear a few hats at my current job. WD, Mitsubishi, Rockwell, Jazz Semi, Conexant, MindSpeed to name a few, we all use leaded solder for any inhouse soldering, why, it performs better (currently working on 400Gbps data rates on PAM4) and it is easier to use. Rosin flux does not eat solder iron tips, it burns away in less than 30 seconds, if anything it protects the tip from oxidizing. I can leave a 3.2mm Hakko tip on 850F for a week without using it, just baking it and wipe it clean on a sponge. If you were damaging Hakko tips in weeks, you were definitely doing something wrong. I still think your doing it wrong if your taking 45 seconds to simply solder a wire to a connector, that should take maximum 5 seconds once both parts are tinned. Have fun.
@@Ozzy3333333 thank you i had to scrolll down so far to see the first comment bringing light to another terrible instructional video teaching people the wrong way to solder when there is plenty of correct videos on RUclips, thank you for speaking up
Thank you for more education on soldering because I solder battery plug every then and then but I use traxxas plugs or EC3 or EC5 because I use traxxas battery or spectrum battery because I have both charger and I use spectrum DX6R to watch me battery as I drive
Great video. Specially because it happened to you the bad that always happen to me. My main problem is that I can not stand the heat on my hand while holding the wire. I cry like a little boy…. Also I know the theory but I always end messing something up!
The heat shrink is best shrunk on by hot air gun not a lighter! And just de-soLLLLLLLder the wires rather than cutting them shorter?? Put a damp rag on the battery to protect the electronics from heat
I have a 350w brushless motor(if that means anything) with a 48v 20ah battery. With a bullet connector. I want to add an extra battery for travel. Not parallel. I want to just cut off the bullet. Add a 2 way xt60 connector. That is safe right ? And do I need to solder from the controller and old battery to the new xt60 connectors ? Can i just shrink wrap or ?
I know this Video has been posted for a long time. So how about and update video including when you should use a xt60 vs a xt90 or ec3 vs ec5. For crawlers I get using a xt60 across but what about vehicles with more amp draw?
Hi, thank you for your wonderful videos. I am new to the hobby and I’d like to know if is possible to convert the traxxas trx4 defender ID connector on the truck to a different connector? Thank you.
@6:40 that Bic lighter is someone's personal lighter, a real smoker. Notice the child safety mechanism is missing on the barrel. I know because it's what I do to Bic's also. That is all, carry on mate.
Sir I love the videos! I hope you can help me with the soldering. I have a good solder gun and I use good tips with it. The problem I'm running into is the heat transfer. Its got to me but I was wondering if flux would help with the issue? I've never used flux but I've seen videos on using it and some people (air quotes) swear by it. Have you used it or is it that you just have better equipment than me or is it I'm just a moron with a nice metal heat stick?
Interesting, I wonder if anyone has had issues with them coming off? I know that I have to fight them to come off if I ever have to redo a connection 🤣
Is it ok to solder an xt60 male to battery instead of female? I’m soldering extra battery to my xiaomi escooter and think I got it mixed up but if can use male instead of female then everything is fine. Brand new to soldering/wires etc lol
@hellsfavoritesaltyberserke4724 I don't remember this but whatever I did worked cuz had extra battery connected for couple years before got new type of scooter
Trying to churn out as much as I can while immobile and cold. I'm actually walking again now, and it's getting warm, so we will return to crawling and outdoor product reviews soon.
Why dont u use a heat gun? U should suggest to people to make sure length of wites should be even before solding begins so that that problem u had wouldn't happen. Imo.
Didn't want to steal it from the shop where it gets used often all day. The leads may want to bend in different directions from each other and make the last plug connection tough, whether they are the same length or not. Watch and learn from each "problem".
I'm glad you had issues transferring heat - I had the same problem, and it was nice to see someone else trying to heat up that massive blob of metal. Mine kept getting so hot the plastic would melt.
Too much heat for too long, those joints are dry (dull), and the wire will have become brittle (copper embrittlement) need to use liquid flux to help get the job done faster. I'm shocked that these connectors use solder buckets and not crimps.
& @9:40 everyone who knows a Bic, knows that the upper yellow portion of the flame produces the dark burn residue when heating items. Therefore, people who do not wish to have that on whatever they're hearing, tend to use the bottom blue portion of the flame in order to avoid this happening. Gd talk!
It’s not like there isn’t any soldering videos on RUclips, there are hundreds and this is the first video where I saw someone only heating up the wire and not the connector, I wouldn’t do any instructional video on something that I couldn’t do properly. I read the comments and see all the thank you’s, all i can say is please find a video that shows soldering correctly. And also soldering over top of a bic lighter, you have kids watching this video learning the wrong techniques please stick with what you know.
Thanks for the video! I’m modifying my first rc car to try and keep up with my newly adopted lil buddy. Just bought a soldering gun and I was struggling to figure it out. Your video made it all make sense.
Holmes, you're using the wrong size tip for this soldering job. A D4 or D52 (Hakko) or equivalent for your soldering iron brand would be much more suitable than the small conical you're using for this job. Faster heat transfer, less total heating of your parts. The rule of thumb for successful soldering... GET IN, GET OUT! Using the right tip for the job makes getting good, professional results MUCH MUCH easier!!! Yes, I realize the video is 4 years old... this comment is more for the people watching the video.
Also ---Grease from your fingers on the soLLLLder wire will add to your issues, buddy. All surfaces to be soLLLLdered must be properly cleaned with wire wool.
Yes definitely insolate. Good video John. Love your channel and love the motors you make amazing torque from my brushed holmes 35t expert in my scx10.2
thank you i thought i was the only one doesnt get solder on the tip for any longer than i have to, and OMG that casio watch, i used to have one of those for phone numbers. I miss the early information age
It is celcius, but silver bearing solder does melt lower than just tin. Also, I don't want to overheat the solder. Cranking up the iron doesn't really help do a good job.
The amount of times I’ve soldered and then realised I forgot to put heat shrink on: 100% of the time. Love this video! It’s going to help me get better at it 👍🏻
One thing that will help a lot when soldering larger gauge wires is to install a soldering tip (flat bald type) with the width of the blade close to the diameter of the wire you are soldering. It aids in heat transfer and actually reduces the amount of time you have to leave the soldering iron in contact with the solder joint.
John, you are a a proper character, REALLY enjoyed watching this!!! 🤙
I just swapped the connector on my first Lipo, didn't short it, didn't burn my eyebrow off either. Thanks so much for a great video John.
Great video John I've been soldering a long time, but you never stop learning, especially from someone with your experience. Hope that leg of yours is getting better. Keep up the cool videos. 🇺🇸☝️
Pretty much walking by now!
Thanks for the tips. I have soldered off & on for several years, but these connectors were kicking my butt.
Well John, I saw this about 6 hours too late....
I'm in the process of converting everything to XT-60s, so I can be one of the cool kids!! 😛 .... I've been Soldering for a long time, and have been replacing Batry Plugs, since getting rid of Tamiya Plugs in the early 90's.
Today I learned THAT DOESN'T make me an expert by any means!!! 😱
I DID melt one of the pins on the Plug!! If that was the worst thing to happen, it would have been embarrassing... BUT, in my haste, I reversed the leads to the Plug! I didn't realize that, until I went to plug it into my Rig. INSTANT SMOKE! Fortunately, I didn't ruin one of only 3 of my ESCs... But I destroyed my ONLY 3S Batry!!!! 😫😭😭😔 Yes, no big deal for nearly everyone else, but I can't afford to replace it. 😔
Expensive lesson on being careful and double checking. Now I'm kinda screwed. On a better note, that tip you gave. I didn't know that those posts TWIST. Lining those up would have made it quite a bit easier!! I'll remember that.
Carmine 🚂 🚙
Mr. Rodgers of RC! Love it! Painting guy also. Love it!
The reason the solder is not flowing is due to a lack of flux as well as heat
i just installed my 1800kv revolver motor in my trx4 after watching this video on how to solder and it is by far my favorite motor i have tired thanks so much!
awesome, glad you like it!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I found it very informative.
Bupane always comes in handy
I love this video so much I always come back to this one
Great presentations. Have just bought your Puller Pro V2 Stubby 1200KV and a Revolver V2 Snubnose 2500KV for my new build Axial Capra. Great job.
Thank youuu! I've taught myself how to solder from youtube rc tutorials and I didnt really notice everyone was holding the iron to the wire or object, and not putting the solder on the tip of the iron, my tip is all deformed and chunks taken out of it, it still works but I read itll stop soon because that special material will run out on the tip eventually but it's a 30$ iron, then I'll upgrade to adjustable temp one. Appreciate it and soon going to get the 380 "weevolver" motor for my sons losi mini rock crawler. Nobody Carrie's 18th scale motors...well besides cheap chinese knockoffs. Love the vids brotha! Very inspiring!
Glad my vid helped! The pitting on your iron tip is from the flux core of your solder.
Nice bud 👍 I like the xt60 with the protection shell so you don't need shrink tubing 💯
Same, that's all I buy if I can help it now.
I only use the ec5 he cut off in this video. Because it's super easy to flame solder them.
Great video, since your last one on soldering I have added safety glasses to my work station.
I always pre-tin the tip...it really shortens the heat-transfer. I might soder a few dozen times a year and I'll get 5+ years out of a tip. So no concern here about a shorter tip life.
Great vid as always.
I'm almost out of soder so I'll be by the site in a little while.
Long John Holmes 💪😁
I use a TK955 station. I bump it up to 800w with 12 gauge wire and melts the solder in 3 to 4 seconds you don't have to hold it there for long and you won't melt your plugs.👍🏻🔥😎🔥🤙🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you sir! I’m learn to solder to put your 380 revolver on to a Castle sidewinder micro. The bullet connectors on the esc a bigger then I need for the motor.
Great video man. Out of all the R/C channels I subscribe to yours is my favorite because you go into great detail of the topic which is great for me because I'm still an amateur in the R/C world. I recently upgraded both of my TRX4 rigs from the stock motor to your trail master 550 21T motors and plan on later in the season to upgrade one of my rigs to brushless. Love the vids man keep 'em coming.
Thank you sir!
Yes, number 1 rule when working with batteries, especially LiPO batteries ~ Isolate & Insulate. One polarity at a time.
If the 2 polarities connect, within few seconds LiPO will turn into quite a big fireball.
Wonderful instructions. Gonna look if you have an EC5 solder instructional video now 🙂
Thank you John, another excellent video!
Great video I was having a hard time soldering the XT60 connectors I was afraid to melting them .
Now i can solder deans to my batteres for my airsoft guns. Of course i dont want to use these connectoes. They"re fine for rc's and drones but not airsoft. I also heard is a good idea to use flux core.
FYI, Solder is the best thing for your iron tip unless you have some real crummy solder. The solder protects your tip from oxidising and here is the key, it gives a larger surface area to TRANSFER HEAT. Your 45 seconds to solder one wire to the plug should of been 5 seconds, all because you think adding solder to your tip is bad. Also touch the pretined solder tip to both wire and plug, wam bam 5 seconds thank you mam. Also, when your soldering, the tip should be smoking, what do I mean, the rosin is what keeps the solder and metal from oxidizing from the heat, this is why you always add solder to the tip right before you solder. Right after soldering, dont be a rookie and wipe that nice extra solder off the tip and put the iron back in the holder, that solder is what is protecting the tip. Then when you need the iron, you wipe the tip clean from the gray oxidized solder and add fresh solder. 63/37 solder is the best solder, it has the lowest melting point, then 60/40, I never use that no lead crap. FYI, I solder professionally, DIP, Flat pack, QFN, BGA, CSA packages.
Solder is fine to add directly to the tip when it isn't flux cored. Flux eats away at the tip though, especially at lead free temps which you evidently dont use. Its a tough line to ride. I have a bag full of pitted ruined tips from before I modified my routine. Once I stopped shoving solder directly on the tip I started getting years out of the tips instead of weeks.
you solder "professionally" and use leaded? Do tell what professional outfit does this .
@@HolmesHobbies They dont just pay me to solder, it's just part of the job building prototypes, troubleshooting customer applications that use our IC's, validation and product engineering, I do wear a few hats at my current job. WD, Mitsubishi, Rockwell, Jazz Semi, Conexant, MindSpeed to name a few, we all use leaded solder for any inhouse soldering, why, it performs better (currently working on 400Gbps data rates on PAM4) and it is easier to use. Rosin flux does not eat solder iron tips, it burns away in less than 30 seconds, if anything it protects the tip from oxidizing. I can leave a 3.2mm Hakko tip on 850F for a week without using it, just baking it and wipe it clean on a sponge. If you were damaging Hakko tips in weeks, you were definitely doing something wrong. I still think your doing it wrong if your taking 45 seconds to simply solder a wire to a connector, that should take maximum 5 seconds once both parts are tinned. Have fun.
@@Ozzy3333333 Thanks for your professional advice
@@Ozzy3333333 thank you i had to scrolll down so far to see the first comment bringing light to another terrible instructional video teaching people the wrong way to solder when there is plenty of correct videos on RUclips, thank you for speaking up
Thank you for more education on soldering because I solder battery plug every then and then but I use traxxas plugs or EC3 or EC5 because I use traxxas battery or spectrum battery because I have both charger and I use spectrum DX6R to watch me battery as I drive
I wish my solder joint looked that good
Great video. Specially because it happened to you the bad that always happen to me. My main problem is that I can not stand the heat on my hand while holding the wire. I cry like a little boy…. Also I know the theory but I always end messing something up!
That was a painful watch, seeing an electronic genius, making soldering look difficult !
I really needed a better tip that day! Only had the smallest spot of good iron to work with.
Thanks so much helps alot.
i could be wrong, but shorely wouldnt it be smarter to leave the battery lead as it is and change the end on the esc?
Yes, I liked the video, it was and is very informative, I also liked the little corky jokes along the way.
what temp do you have your iron at?
The heat shrink is best shrunk on by hot air gun not a lighter! And just de-soLLLLLLLder the wires rather than cutting them shorter?? Put a damp rag on the battery to protect the electronics from heat
I have a 350w brushless motor(if that means anything) with a 48v 20ah battery. With a bullet connector. I want to add an extra battery for travel. Not parallel. I want to just cut off the bullet. Add a 2 way xt60 connector. That is safe right ? And do I need to solder from the controller and old battery to the new xt60 connectors ? Can i just shrink wrap or ?
Hi John, to prevent the nasty stuff on the isolation, shrink it in the blue flame, never in the yellow flame, that always leaves black stuff
great tip!
@@HolmesHobbies you can keep it nasty or clean :-)
I know this Video has been posted for a long time. So how about and update video including when you should use a xt60 vs a xt90 or ec3 vs ec5. For crawlers I get using a xt60 across but what about vehicles with more amp draw?
I have a question Could you not turn your soldering iron down and use it to shrink that insulation?
You had me at stay tuned......
Hi, thank you for your wonderful videos. I am new to the hobby and I’d like to know if is possible to convert the traxxas trx4 defender ID connector on the truck to a different connector? Thank you.
Always enjoy whatever you present. Subd many moons ago. Question: How do you determine the temperature setting? Wire gauge?
I always tin my iron before transferring heat. No sense in trying 1st. Then tinning
Does tinning the iron hurt the iron?
got some tips~
Is there any difference when replacing the female side?
@6:40 that Bic lighter is someone's personal lighter, a real smoker. Notice the child safety mechanism is missing on the barrel. I know because it's what I do to Bic's also.
That is all, carry on mate.
Do you have a facebook group for all this ?
Sir I love the videos! I hope you can help me with the soldering. I have a good solder gun and I use good tips with it. The problem I'm running into is the heat transfer. Its got to me but I was wondering if flux would help with the issue? I've never used flux but I've seen videos on using it and some people (air quotes) swear by it. Have you used it or is it that you just have better equipment than me or is it I'm just a moron with a nice metal heat stick?
Is that a calculator watch?
servo/light Y harnesses.
Ive noticed new lipos having diff balance clips , they seem bigger , am i seeing wrong ,need to buy 3 s lipos ,soon
its been a while since there were thunderpower specific plugs, but new ones are slightly larger
Dude 60/40 lead solder is your friend
No it's not, I handle too much solder to use leaded. A properly tinned tip would be my friend though 😆
We like
If you don’t want to do this yourself, where is a good place to get it done for you??
local hobby shop. Or buy at holmeshobbies.com and we install plugs if you choose.
@@HolmesHobbies thank you very much!
where is the little grey cap provided with the xt60 connectors?
Some come with the "grey piece" so that you don't necessarily HAVE to use heat shrink.
I don't like the capped style. It's kinda risky that the cap will pop off and a short could happen.
Interesting, I wonder if anyone has had issues with them coming off?
I know that I have to fight them to come off if I ever have to redo a connection 🤣
@@puzzleluvr I have had problems in the past, but it also depends on what factory is making the plugs. Certainly, some have to be better than others.
@@HolmesHobbies very true, it's like anything I guess. Quality control is key.
I suck at soldering..... but I can build ya a bad ass coffee table!😂😂😂
i spend *WAY* too much time heating things, all my cheap xt60s hold up well.
Dude, not to sound like a beast of burden here but, is that an aluminum fixture?
I think so
Is it ok to solder an xt60 male to battery instead of female? I’m soldering extra battery to my xiaomi escooter and think I got it mixed up but if can use male instead of female then everything is fine. Brand new to soldering/wires etc lol
@hellsfavoritesaltyberserke4724 I don't remember this but whatever I did worked cuz had extra battery connected for couple years before got new type of scooter
sode-RING vs "SOL-dering "
bic approved.
More soddering ?
Cap park for drag car mamba x
Since your immobile at the moment can we expect an increase in instructional videos?!
Trying to churn out as much as I can while immobile and cold. I'm actually walking again now, and it's getting warm, so we will return to crawling and outdoor product reviews soon.
is it bad to use flux?
rosin flux is fine. acid flux is not.
@@HolmesHobbies thank you
Guess what I forgot twice in a row?
Why dont u use a heat gun? U should suggest to people to make sure length of wites should be even before solding begins so that that problem u had wouldn't happen. Imo.
Didn't want to steal it from the shop where it gets used often all day. The leads may want to bend in different directions from each other and make the last plug connection tough, whether they are the same length or not. Watch and learn from each "problem".
hahah, "not to be confused with a well behaved witch"
your tip is too small...rip that with a larger tip @ 815 and done in 3 secs
This guy has hands like elephants feet.
What a mess !
A heat gun for the heat shrink tubing is much safer. $10.00 on Amazon.
Poor technique.
I'm glad you had issues transferring heat - I had the same problem, and it was nice to see someone else trying to heat up that massive blob of metal. Mine kept getting so hot the plastic would melt.
Too much heat for too long, those joints are dry (dull), and the wire will have become brittle (copper embrittlement) need to use liquid flux to help get the job done faster.
I'm shocked that these connectors use solder buckets and not crimps.
& @9:40 everyone who knows a Bic, knows that the upper yellow portion of the flame produces the dark burn residue when heating items. Therefore, people who do not wish to have that on whatever they're hearing, tend to use the bottom blue portion of the flame in order to avoid this happening.
Gd talk!
Could the heat from the Iron cause the Lipo to react? Like. Go boom?
It’s not like there isn’t any soldering videos on RUclips, there are hundreds and this is the first video where I saw someone only heating up the wire and not the connector, I wouldn’t do any instructional video on something that I couldn’t do properly. I read the comments and see all the thank you’s, all i can say is please find a video that shows soldering correctly. And also soldering over top of a bic lighter, you have kids watching this video learning the wrong techniques please stick with what you know.
Thanks bro
The best way is to just solder connectors with free wires
Is it safe to heat up the wire? I am afraid the heat goes down to the battery and then 💥
Thanks that was really good one for soldering batteries and was something I had wondered about. 👍🙂
Glad it helped
Thanks for the video! I’m modifying my first rc car to try and keep up with my newly adopted lil buddy. Just bought a soldering gun and I was struggling to figure it out. Your video made it all make sense.
Glad I could help!
Holmes, you're using the wrong size tip for this soldering job. A D4 or D52 (Hakko) or equivalent for your soldering iron brand would be much more suitable than the small conical you're using for this job. Faster heat transfer, less total heating of your parts. The rule of thumb for successful soldering... GET IN, GET OUT! Using the right tip for the job makes getting good, professional results MUCH MUCH easier!!! Yes, I realize the video is 4 years old... this comment is more for the people watching the video.
Tip was also needing a replate. In newer vids all I use is fatter chisels! In and out quick as possible is best, for sure
I learned my lesson on this vid, lol
Love it I gotta a few buddies need to watch this fo sho...lmao at the good wicken joke haha
im a good wiccan
Also ---Grease from your fingers on the soLLLLder wire will add to your issues, buddy. All surfaces to be soLLLLdered must be properly cleaned with wire wool.
Nice video. Plug the mating connector into your hot connector to keep the housing from going soft and losing alignment. Especially with Deans.
Hey man great video , im learning how to solder because im buying a hobbywing max10 sct 4000kv combo and im using xt60 connectors.
Yes definitely insolate. Good video John. Love your channel and love the motors you make amazing torque from my brushed holmes 35t expert in my scx10.2
Very informative thanks for posting good advice
thank you i thought i was the only one doesnt get solder on the tip for any longer than i have to, and OMG that casio watch, i used to have one of those for phone numbers. I miss the early information age
Its really the flux core that an issue, it eats the tip coating very fast. I used to have a spool of solid that was mostly just for tinning tips.
Get a chisel tip for your iron. Works much better than that point.
yeah, this old tip needs some work! Its lost it plating too.
Great tutorial John I reckon much appreciate your time 😎👍
What brand lead free solder do you use? I’ve been thinking about going lead free as well but I hear so many horror stories about it.
We have our own specific amalgum and diameter spooled. holmeshobbies.com/holmes-hobbies-4-silver-solder-0-5oz.html
thanks for all the great videos. i really learned alot
Is your temp that low because of the solder type?
It is celcius, but silver bearing solder does melt lower than just tin. Also, I don't want to overheat the solder. Cranking up the iron doesn't really help do a good job.
@@HolmesHobbies o Celsius duhhh. Makes sense now. I was thinking Fahrenheit. Thanks. Love your products and info you share. ✌
The amount of times I’ve soldered and then realised I forgot to put heat shrink on: 100% of the time.
Love this video! It’s going to help me get better at it 👍🏻
One thing that will help a lot when soldering larger gauge wires is to install a soldering tip (flat bald type) with the width of the blade close to the diameter of the wire you are soldering. It aids in heat transfer and actually reduces the amount of time you have to leave the soldering iron in contact with the solder joint.
I liked. :D I did the connector wire combo in different direction. I soldered the red wire, to the pole with "-" sign on it. Maybe I've been wrong?
Red is ALWAYS the positive "+" cable!