My house was built in 1991. It still has the original Zoeller N53. The switch has started sticking occasionally. Obviously I'm getting another Zoeller. My house in on hill and generally pretty dry, but 31 years on a sump pump is incredible.
This video is from 2017, since then Zoeller has made upgraded version of the M53 pump and its the M63 pump, upgraded switch with higher cycle rating, better switch boot cover, and lighted led plug. Worth the extra 50 bucks.
2022: Great USA made pumps and I have 5. But I just bought a Liberty. Lots of water intrusion issues into the float/switch housing, and the 9.3 amp draw is just absurd, it should be 4 or 5 amp max. They scrimp on the windings and thus it uses more power. When I learn of improvements in the switch box, I will buy again. Unfortunately, they have been bought out by a mega company and now some box store branded crap from China is appearing. So the jury is out.
The switch on this pump will be the first thing to go. Next time I will buy a zoeller pump with no switch. I plan on using a piggy back cord and a easily replaceable vertical switch. Still have my zoeller as a backup after replacing the switch.
The trouble with Zoeller pumps is that one, they draw a lot of amps, pump like crazy though. The other is that they turn on at a low level, and the float is not adjustable. There is not much "travel" in their float. Better off getting a non-automatic Zoeller and using a Levelguard solid state switch or such a switch with the stock float tied in the on position
The ABZ’s of pumps - Always Buy Zoeller Which by the way rhymes with/ Dollar, I just learned that watching their webinars 😃 Mine short cycles & we either need a bigger dia. sump crock, a longer range teether type switch like you mentioned, or both. Something adjustable for a larger range than the style all 3 of my Zoeller sump pumps have, they’re just like yours. Turns out there are lots of new, high quality solid state switching options available. In fact, Zoeller even offers their own version. Now how do I best bypass & block off / plug the current switch to run a piggyback float switch in its place? I got ideas😎
I feel you a 100% last year this time of the year the water table was 4 ft down and we have a 8 ft deep basement and our pump was going crazy . But somehow this year it's not running at all no water coming in
A few years back when I was shopping for a new pump, I did a lot of research and the most common complaint about Zoeller pumps was that the switch failed after only 18-24 months. Since I wanted a Zoeller pump, I did a lot of research on switches. There was no real consensuses on who made a reliable switch so I didn't buy a Zoeller pump.
Pro1er my switch just went bad on my Wayne sump pump after only 2 1/2 years 6 inches of water in the basement. So who knows? Luck of the draw I guess. Luckily no damage. The only thing in the basement are the mechanicals which are a foot off of the floor. But definitely getting a primary pump, back up pump with battery. I just don’t wanna worry about it.
Pro1er so I found some Zoeller videos from them on RUclips.. As of about a year ago they upgraded their switches and have tested them up to 3 million times with no failure. I’m assuming the switch issue has been resolved. Wayne only tests up to 1 million. They also extended their warranty by two years because of it. So now has a five year warranty. Hopefully it’s been resolved? I appreciate the advice. Thank you.
In any main sump location using an external switch (like the levelguard or HydroCheck) with a Zoeller or Liberty non-automatic cast iron pump (no switch) is the best setup IMO. The electronic switches last many cycles and can operate in a dual pump system in a very tight space. The HydroCheck dual sensor switches are infinitely adjustable allowing you to handle many different water level scenarios. I would never trust a "float" switch for a main sump location.
I would cut my floor and install 1-2 more sump baskets next to the existing and hook them all together in series. That will cut the cycle rate to 50% or 33% respectively.
I have seen many houses with improper slope toward the foundation resulting in caving failed basement walls. A berm or retaining wall is a necessity not an option.
I had a Zoeller M53 with a Zoeller Basement Sentry back-up installed in Aug 2019. It's May 2024 and I'm replacing the whole works. The Primary pump does not always come on, I suspect a switch problem. And the check valve in the Sentry back-up completely broke off - so two problems at once! Also, I've never liked that the M53 pumped so often because the float is not adjustable. My old sump did not cycle so often. I'm not installing a Zoeller again. Has anyone heard of the Pro Series combo pumps? I'm considering one of those on recommendation, but will have to do more homework.
I went with the Ridgid 1000RSDS it was the biggest best and most expensive pump at HD. Now I don’t know if I needed that pump but as you said in your video. I NEVER want to deal with this issue EVER AGAIN. Once the water is gone I’m going to clear out and clean everything out.
I have 0 5 hp zoeller sump pump for over 2 years. It cycles a lot and doing ok but I feel its gph capacity is low. I see a ridgid smart dual suction sump pump with an air switch and smart tracking. Any reviews or details on how good and reliable the pump is and when is an air switch preferred pros and cons?
Plumbers are reporting that there are a lot of bad Zoeller pumps of late. Switches are going bad within a year and then the pump won't shut off. Possibly it's water getting into the switch. Do some research first before purchasing.
I have a 1/2hp $49. Harbor Freight sump pump that I bought 5 years ago... and it works a LOT (currently cycling every 1 to 1.5 minutes with all the rain and a High water table with poor drainage due to near solid clay about 10 feet below ground level... anyway, it has performed flawlessly now for 5 years.. has a totally enclosed Magnetic switch on a verticle float shaft with a separate power cord from the pump motor.... and I bought an identical pump as a replacement. The only difference (hopefully!!) is that the new pump has a green motor casing which says "Drummond" on it and the price has nearly doubled to $84.99!!..... but is still a great deal compared to the "name brands" at other locations, especially if the new one works as great, and for as long and hard as the "harbor freight" model that I've had for the last 5+ years and still going strong!!
The switch issue was an old issue that they have resolved - BUT- many vendors including Zoeller are offering electronic switches as an upgrade choice - or even dual floats - as all single floats from any vendor are failure points more than the pump itself. Zoeller, Liberty, and Ion Industries all make great sump pumps - and USA made.
@William K - If the pump won't shut off, it's most likely due to switch contacts welding, which is due to improperly specified switches or Zoeller's switch vendor pulling a switcheroo on them, substituting inferior material. My preference would be to avoid pumps with built-in switches altogether. If the switch is an external accessory, it is easier and cheaper to replace as a separate unit.
@@toms3502 "... in the last year and a half" is the issue. The switch will go in a couple of years, which means the pump is useless at that point anyway. If you MUST use a Zoeller, always use a separate switch.
I dont agree with the premise "that houses shouldnt be in certain areas". I am in civil engineering and you could have water table/ underground water courses different from one lot to another. Thats how my own house is. Every house should have a Nat Gas generator when built. Its a nothing cost in the grand scheme of costs. Battery backups are crap. Had one. Just installed a Liberty water pump as a backup. Buy a Red Lion as your main pump.
"Every house should have a Nat Gas generator when built" - except in places with dope-smoking city councils that vote to ban natural gas hookups, e.g., Berkeley, California and Morgan Hill, California. They think they're "saving the planet", or some such nonsense.
Like my friend in Vancouver...against a Nat. Gas pipeline, but didn't know what it or LNG was. (Liquified Natural Gas). The cleanest fuel to heat your home next to electric. And used to generate electricity as well. Stupid millenials and old brain washed hippies....
My house was built in 1991. It still has the original Zoeller N53. The switch has started sticking occasionally. Obviously I'm getting another Zoeller. My house in on hill and generally pretty dry, but 31 years on a sump pump is incredible.
This video is from 2017, since then Zoeller has made upgraded version of the M53 pump and its the M63 pump, upgraded switch with higher cycle rating, better switch boot cover, and lighted led plug. Worth the extra 50 bucks.
2022: Great USA made pumps and I have 5. But I just bought a Liberty. Lots of water intrusion issues into the float/switch housing, and the 9.3 amp draw is just absurd, it should be 4 or 5 amp max. They scrimp on the windings and thus it uses more power. When I learn of improvements in the switch box, I will buy again. Unfortunately, they have been bought out by a mega company and now some box store branded crap from China is appearing. So the jury is out.
I've used Zoeller n53 and levelguard switch. Both have worked flawlessly over 8 years.
My go to combo...
I had similar sentiments but felt my fears were caused by my ignorance. It is nice to get advice from an expert.
The switch on this pump will be the first thing to go. Next time I will buy a zoeller pump with no switch. I plan on using a piggy back cord and a easily replaceable vertical switch. Still have my zoeller as a backup after replacing the switch.
Hello this video really needs an update on how this unit has lasted. 6 years is a long time could you address this in comments or in another video?
The trouble with Zoeller pumps is that one, they draw a lot of amps, pump like crazy though. The other is that they turn on at a low level, and the float is not adjustable. There is not much "travel" in their float. Better off getting a non-automatic Zoeller and using a Levelguard solid state switch or such a switch with the stock float tied in the on position
The ABZ’s of pumps - Always Buy Zoeller
Which by the way rhymes with/ Dollar, I just learned that watching their webinars 😃
Mine short cycles & we either need a bigger dia. sump crock, a longer range teether type switch like you mentioned, or both. Something adjustable for a larger range than the style all 3 of my Zoeller sump pumps have, they’re just like yours.
Turns out there are lots of new, high quality solid state switching options available. In fact, Zoeller even offers their own version.
Now how do I best bypass & block off / plug the current switch to run a piggyback float switch in its place? I got ideas😎
I feel you a 100% last year this time of the year the water table was 4 ft down and we have a 8 ft deep basement and our pump was going crazy .
But somehow this year it's not running at all no water coming in
I bought that Zoeller pump on your recommendation and now it's constantly on and never goes off after less than 2 years.
You might need a check valve. It could be the pump is experiencing backflow from the line and that is flowing back into your well.
It looks like there are not enough good videos in youtube, so it recommends this "empty" video.
Great informative video that no one talks about on utube🎯✅
A few years back when I was shopping for a new pump, I did a lot of research and the most common complaint about Zoeller pumps was that the switch failed after only 18-24 months. Since I wanted a Zoeller pump, I did a lot of research on switches. There was no real consensuses on who made a reliable switch so I didn't buy a Zoeller pump.
Pro1er my switch just went bad on my Wayne sump pump after only 2 1/2 years 6 inches of water in the basement. So who knows? Luck of the draw I guess. Luckily no damage. The only thing in the basement are the mechanicals which are a foot off of the floor. But definitely getting a primary pump, back up pump with battery. I just don’t wanna worry about it.
@@Maynardd You might want to look into a water alarm. I have one that calls my cell phone.
Pro1er so I found some Zoeller videos from them on RUclips.. As of about a year ago they upgraded their switches and have tested them up to 3 million times with no failure. I’m assuming the switch issue has been resolved. Wayne only tests up to 1 million. They also extended their warranty by two years because of it. So now has a five year warranty. Hopefully it’s been resolved? I appreciate the advice. Thank you.
Myers and liberty are great pumps. My septic system effluent pump is 20 yrs old and still runs great.
Yeah, my Zoeller is stuck on after only a couple years. What pump should I get?
In any main sump location using an external switch (like the levelguard or HydroCheck) with a Zoeller or Liberty non-automatic cast iron pump (no switch) is the best setup IMO.
The electronic switches last many cycles and can operate in a dual pump system in a very tight space.
The HydroCheck dual sensor switches are infinitely adjustable allowing you to handle many different water level scenarios.
I would never trust a "float" switch for a main sump location.
I would cut my floor and install 1-2 more sump baskets next to the existing and hook them all together in series. That will cut the cycle rate to 50% or 33% respectively.
I have seen many houses with improper slope toward the foundation resulting in caving failed basement walls. A berm or retaining wall is a necessity not an option.
the switch on my m53 zoeller only lasted 4 years! going to n53 with float switch , still like zoeller
I had a Zoeller M53 with a Zoeller Basement Sentry back-up installed in Aug 2019. It's May 2024 and I'm replacing the whole works. The Primary pump does not always come on, I suspect a switch problem. And the check valve in the Sentry back-up completely broke off - so two problems at once! Also, I've never liked that the M53 pumped so often because the float is not adjustable. My old sump did not cycle so often. I'm not installing a Zoeller again. Has anyone heard of the Pro Series combo pumps? I'm considering one of those on recommendation, but will have to do more homework.
I haven't had good experiences with 3 zoelers ? I have a wayno 1/2 hp battery backup and have been great and super quite
I went with the Ridgid 1000RSDS it was the biggest best and most expensive pump at HD. Now I don’t know if I needed that pump but as you said in your video. I NEVER want to deal with this issue EVER AGAIN. Once the water is gone I’m going to clear out and clean everything out.
Your link does not work. Get a page not found message.
Are you still happy with the pumps?
I have the same thing you have but I didn’t know how to hook it .
How much did you pay for the sub pump can you put the link for it for exactly the same one you had
All that i need is the type or model of that pump?? please????
Could you please link the pump and back up pump you had in the video. The link you have just goes to Zoeller website
New subscriber from Davenport Iowa
I have 0 5 hp zoeller sump pump for over 2 years. It cycles a lot and doing ok but I feel its gph capacity is low. I see a ridgid smart dual suction sump pump with an air switch and smart tracking. Any reviews or details on how good and reliable the pump is and when is an air switch preferred pros and cons?
we have two of the above pumps that are 18 months old. Both have stopped work..
Can you write the pump info in the information area for your video?
+Jaime Alvaro Burbano Cuellar www.zoellerpumps.com/en-na/products/sump-and-effluent-pumps#residential-use
Plumbers are reporting that there are a lot of bad Zoeller pumps of late. Switches are going bad within a year and then the pump won't shut off. Possibly it's water getting into the switch. Do some research first before purchasing.
William K which pump would you recommend??
It may have just been a bad batch of switches... I don't know. Might take a look at the Liberty pumps.
I have a 1/2hp $49. Harbor Freight sump pump that I bought 5 years ago... and it works a LOT (currently cycling every 1 to 1.5 minutes with all the rain and a High water table with poor drainage due to near solid clay about 10 feet below ground level... anyway, it has performed flawlessly now for 5 years.. has a totally enclosed Magnetic switch on a verticle float shaft with a separate power cord from the pump motor.... and I bought an identical pump as a replacement.
The only difference (hopefully!!) is that the new pump has a green motor casing which says "Drummond" on it and the price has nearly doubled to $84.99!!..... but is still a great deal compared to the "name brands" at other locations, especially if the new one works as great, and for as long and hard as the "harbor freight" model that I've had for the last 5+ years and still going strong!!
The switch issue was an old issue that they have resolved - BUT- many vendors including Zoeller are offering electronic switches as an upgrade choice - or even dual floats - as all single floats from any vendor are failure points more than the pump itself. Zoeller, Liberty, and Ion Industries all make great sump pumps - and USA made.
@William K - If the pump won't shut off, it's most likely due to switch contacts welding, which is due to improperly specified switches or Zoeller's switch vendor pulling a switcheroo on them, substituting inferior material. My preference would be to avoid pumps with built-in switches altogether. If the switch is an external accessory, it is easier and cheaper to replace as a separate unit.
I thought Wayne combo was the best?
BlackDevill9 so did I? I guess it just depends who you talk too.
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing for some people. Liberty pumps with levelguard switches, the top professionals choice.
Zoellers fitting between the two pumps sucks and is a pain to work with. The Wayne fitting or Y is a much better design.
I've had three Zoeller pumps fail over the last five years. Never buying one again...
Probably the switch
Doesn't matter what causes it.
I have installed over 30 in the last year and a half. Not one failure, so this surprises me.
@@toms3502 "... in the last year and a half" is the issue. The switch will go in a couple of years, which means the pump is useless at that point anyway. If you MUST use a Zoeller, always use a separate switch.
10:10 if you’re here to see the pump.
Right on😀
Hydrostatic pressure not hydrologic pressure fyi
I dont agree with the premise "that houses shouldnt be in certain areas".
I am in civil engineering and you could have water table/ underground water courses different from one lot to another.
Thats how my own house is.
Every house should have a Nat Gas generator when built. Its a nothing cost in the grand scheme of costs.
Battery backups are crap. Had one.
Just installed a Liberty water pump as a backup.
Buy a Red Lion as your main pump.
"Every house should have a Nat Gas generator when built" - except in places with dope-smoking city councils that vote to ban natural gas hookups, e.g., Berkeley, California and Morgan Hill, California. They think they're "saving the planet", or some such nonsense.
@@Milosz_Ostrow Great comment. Lefty liberal crack pots. They more than likely dont know what Nat Gas is.
Like my friend in Vancouver...against a Nat. Gas pipeline, but didn't know what it or LNG was. (Liquified Natural Gas).
The cleanest fuel to heat your home next to electric. And used to generate electricity as well.
Stupid millenials and old brain washed hippies....
I have a propane generator because we don't have natural gas here but it's been great. I have two basement doctor pumps.
subjective to your level of knowledge.....