Like you I try to be an accurate builder, so when something’s off I think it’s a good thing to trace your steps. Nobody is immune from making mistakes. So checking your previous steps is a healthy thing in my book. It either confirms that you’re on the right track or it prevents you from bigger issues later in the build. So well done and kudos for sharing.
You’re on the right track with it, and it’ll be better built than any ARF. FWIW, I can never get them perfect to plans. Something is always off. Build to the wood, not the plans.
I think your analysis is spot on and you did it correctly. If you would have tacked the former in you would have had to move it close to where you have it. I would add the 1/4 inch piece below the former and move on. Great job
Like the plans the wood also expands and contracts. You formers are fine. The turtle deck doesn’t give an air frame any structural integrity. You’ll be fine the way it is. The directions also stated you may need to adjust them and you did.
Quite often it's the wood pieces themselves that are bowed and twisted once skinned you won't see any of that personally I would just use a dab of epoxy to bridge the gap on the inside once the skin is on it might well pull the gap in a bit tighter. It's looking good 😉👌
Had you put the turtle deck formers on top of the cross members,you would need to notch them at least 1/8 inch deep I to the turtle Deck formers ..the detent lines on the the plans are a center line of the turtle deck stringer..so a 1/4 wide x I/8 deep notch is required install them ..look at some old rubber band planes builds ..great progress ...
good solution to weirdness in the instructions. it appears that the kit components/formers were sized, to guarantee their aft-ward placement. (in hind sight, alignment could have been achieved if the height of the two formers were increased.) d
My take on it, if you notice the stringers on the main former at the front, they end even with the former. What I do in a situation like this is; I make notches on every former to fit the stringers, probably that way, you would be able to move the former forward to the correct position or closest to it.
I think your build is spot on, maybe the guy who designed the plan was wrong when it come to the positioning of the bottom cross pieces however your videos are great
Bonjour Je vous explique vite fait ce qui m est arrivé.. Sur ma première construction d avion ( que je fais actuellement) j ai reproduit sur du papier calque le pare feu dessiné sur le plan (sans vérifier les côtes) je l'ai ensuite dessiné sur le contreplaqué, découpé, poncé longuement. Et quand j ai fait un essai de montage a blanc ( sans colle ) avec les flancs du fuselage je me suis rendu compte qu'il manquait 1,2 millimètres en haut du pare feu. Un côté du pare feu n était pas tout a fait a 90°. Conclusion, il faut tout vérifier. 😋 J attends avec impatience votre prochaine vidéo 👋
Yes, we have done similar things. Have to check and double check. I always try to cut pieces a little too big, then slowly trim and sand, checking constantly until the fit is good. Great that you are building, learn many things with each build, and that makes the next kit build even better. Thanks
Well, I think since the 2 pieces aren't "Load Carrying", it should be good...Plus, this is no "3D" plane, will prolly be flown mostly 1/2 Throttle, so, I think you should be good...Yeah, the (finger quotes ) "Aesthetics " sux, but it will be covered by Covering, or whatever...Like they used to say back in the day, "Only your Hairdresser knows for sure"...😊😊!!
James, I want to add that your method of building up the turtle deck is better than the BUSA way. For BUSA to say tack the formers on with CA and break them off if you need to move them is, well stupid and bad engineering. This CA will wick the former and stringer solid and when you break it off it won’t be the CA that breaks off it will either be the former or the stringer, regardless, you are taking a chunk of wood with it, probably from the corners of the formers, and that is just going to be a repair that is unnecessary because of the method that you showed us which is how it should be done.
To me it is looking great. There is always some variation from the plan no mater the kit. Your are doing a great job !!!!😊
Thanks!
Like you I try to be an accurate builder, so when something’s off I think it’s a good thing to trace your steps. Nobody is immune from making mistakes. So checking your previous steps is a healthy thing in my book. It either confirms that you’re on the right track or it prevents you from bigger issues later in the build. So well done and kudos for sharing.
Thanks! And I appreciate your insight.
Never never assume that the plans are accurate. Your build is spot on. Move on 😊
Thanks!
You’re on the right track with it, and it’ll be better built than any ARF.
FWIW, I can never get them perfect to plans. Something is always off.
Build to the wood, not the plans.
I think your analysis is spot on and you did it correctly. If you would have tacked the former in you would have had to move it close to where you have it. I would add the 1/4 inch piece below the former and move on. Great job
Thanks!
Like the plans the wood also expands and contracts. You formers are fine. The turtle deck doesn’t give an air frame any structural integrity. You’ll be fine the way it is. The directions also stated you may need to adjust them and you did.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Quite often it's the wood pieces themselves that are bowed and twisted once skinned you won't see any of that personally I would just use a dab of epoxy to bridge the gap on the inside once the skin is on it might well pull the gap in a bit tighter. It's looking good 😉👌
Thanks!
Good building 👍 😅👌
Thanks
I agree, done perfectly, move on.
Had you put the turtle deck formers on top of the cross members,you would need to notch them at least 1/8 inch deep I to the turtle Deck formers ..the detent lines on the the plans are a center line of the turtle deck stringer..so a 1/4 wide x I/8 deep notch is required install them ..look at some old rubber band planes builds ..great progress ...
Thats great insight. I didn’t think of that. That would have been better than moving them. Thanks!
good solution to weirdness in the instructions. it appears that the kit components/formers were sized, to guarantee their aft-ward placement. (in hind sight, alignment could have been achieved if the height of the two formers were increased.) d
Good point.
My take on it, if you notice the stringers on the main former at the front, they end even with the former. What I do in a situation like this is; I make notches on every former to fit the stringers, probably that way, you would be able to move the former forward to the correct position or closest to it.
Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
I think your build is spot on, maybe the guy who designed the plan was wrong when it come to the positioning of the bottom cross pieces however your videos are great
Thanks!
Bonjour
Je vous explique vite fait ce qui m est arrivé..
Sur ma première construction d avion ( que je fais actuellement) j ai reproduit sur du papier calque le pare feu dessiné sur le plan (sans vérifier les côtes) je l'ai ensuite dessiné sur le contreplaqué, découpé, poncé longuement. Et quand j ai fait un essai de montage a blanc ( sans colle ) avec les flancs du fuselage je me suis rendu compte qu'il manquait 1,2 millimètres en haut du pare feu. Un côté du pare feu n était pas tout a fait a 90°.
Conclusion, il faut tout vérifier. 😋
J attends avec impatience votre prochaine vidéo 👋
Yes, we have done similar things. Have to check and double check. I always try to cut pieces a little too big, then slowly trim and sand, checking constantly until the fit is good. Great that you are building, learn many things with each build, and that makes the next kit build even better. Thanks
Merci a vous 😊
Well, I think since the 2 pieces aren't "Load Carrying", it should be good...Plus, this is no "3D" plane, will prolly be flown mostly 1/2 Throttle, so, I think you should be good...Yeah, the (finger quotes ) "Aesthetics " sux, but it will be covered by Covering, or whatever...Like they used to say back in the day, "Only your Hairdresser knows for sure"...😊😊!!
Haha!
@@JamesRCPlaneTech ...😊😊👍👍
Whats the cg on this plane?? I got a used one from a person and it is converted to electric but no battery and it's never flown.
Go to the community tab on my channel, I just put a picture there of the wing side profile showing the CG.
@@JamesRCPlaneTech thank you so much
Bottom line build it how you see fit and ignore people who comment that it deviates from how they think it should be done. Period.
Thanks! the comments were polite, people just curious why it ended up like that. Yep, gotta build how you think it should be.
James,
I want to add that your method of building up the turtle deck is better than the BUSA way.
For BUSA to say tack the formers on with CA and break them off if you need to move them is, well stupid and bad engineering.
This CA will wick the former and stringer solid and when you break it off it won’t be the CA that breaks off it will either be the former or the stringer, regardless, you are taking a chunk of wood with it, probably from the corners of the formers, and that is just going to be a repair that is unnecessary because of the method that you showed us which is how it should be done.
Thanks, I appreciate the insight. Ya, there are a few oddities with the kit. But we work through them. Thanks again!