Just a few tips for those interested in thinning knives on a budget. 3M purple sand paper performs significantly better than 3M yellow. Start with 80 to 120 Grit. Lay the sand paper on something flat at the edge of a surface so the knife handed does not present problems. Use a small block of wood 3/4" x 2 to 4" to press the portion of the blade into the abrasive. This eliminates the need to sharpen & flatten your stones. Hope this helps, it is a simple but very time consuming process. The results will surprise you.
@@Crazyknives I do not have a video, but you can watch videos of people thin knives on a bench stone. The big difference is you will not need to flatten & sharpen your stones. For thin knives use a block of wood to keep the blade flat & more evenly spread the down-pressure. Not sure why this has not been mentioned in the videos I watched.
I like the daovua line @ CKTG... I have 2 of the classic V2 line and 1 of the leaf spring line. I sand paper the Kurouchi off, and try too set the finish with a Shapton 120, then smooth it out with a Shapton 320 and really set the finish with a 2x42 belt sander with a 600 belt.... As far as the grind, I even them out with a 120 ceramic belt then back too the Shapton 320... I then soak in apple cider vinegar for 2 rounds, 30 min each. I then wash and scrub the knife with a sponge (green side) I then polish the grind with a progression of stones. 1k, 3k, 5k and 8k. I've found that it gives it a very unique look and great feel. I thin mine too straight up laser beam status.... They perform for basic carbon knives ! Be weary of the belt grinder... Those ceramic belts chew through steel.. you'll start with a 165mm santoku and end up with a ~150mm bunka
I have the daovua 360mm slicer, amazing knife for the price. im still looking for a real sharpener down here in south florida, might resort to mail-in sharpening
@B Watt l would recommend Ryan Swanson with District Cutlery if you want the ultimate spa treatment for your slicer. But l would be happy to assist you if you want to keep your baby closer to home. Ryan is without a doubt the best choice in the Eastern US for this type of work, and he will finish your edge by hand on whetstones. I would do the entire job by hand on stones but would have to charge more than he does because l do not have the tools and expertise to do the bulk of the work with power tools. So l would absolutely recommend Ryan, but if l can ever be of service, please feel free to hit me up.
What's your target for behind the edge thickness? - For my personal knives I like 0.005 to 0.006" but this may be too thin for harder culinary knife blades.
I've never actually measured this with calipers, but for my knives which will mostly be cutting meat and veggies, l like to get them to where it's basically a zero grind with a tiny microbevel. If I'm going after squashes or working around bones, l like it a little thicker, where the secondary bevel is distinctly visible. I'm pretty careful about avoiding potential chipping situations with my thinnest blades.
They get less reactive over time as they develop a solid patina, but yes, quite reactive. In the case of my knife, l didn't find the clean steel overly reactive but the areas above the bevel where the kurouchi finish was partially abraded away due to thinning are now extremely reactive. If l can't get it to settle down in time, l might just polish all that away.
Гарно готуєте🤩🤩🤩🤩
Just a few tips for those interested in thinning knives on a budget. 3M purple sand paper performs significantly better than 3M yellow. Start with 80 to 120 Grit. Lay the sand paper on something flat at the edge of a surface so the knife handed does not present problems. Use a small block of wood 3/4" x 2 to 4" to press the portion of the blade into the abrasive. This eliminates the need to sharpen & flatten your stones. Hope this helps, it is a simple but very time consuming process. The results will surprise you.
Do you have a video on how to do it?
@@Crazyknives I do not have a video, but you can watch videos of people thin knives on a bench stone. The big difference is you will not need to flatten & sharpen your stones. For thin knives use a block of wood to keep the blade flat & more evenly spread the down-pressure. Not sure why this has not been mentioned in the videos I watched.
I like the daovua line @ CKTG... I have 2 of the classic V2 line and 1 of the leaf spring line.
I sand paper the Kurouchi off, and try too set the finish with a Shapton 120, then smooth it out with a Shapton 320 and really set the finish with a 2x42 belt sander with a 600 belt.... As far as the grind, I even them out with a 120 ceramic belt then back too the Shapton 320... I then soak in apple cider vinegar for 2 rounds, 30 min each. I then wash and scrub the knife with a sponge (green side) I then polish the grind with a progression of stones. 1k, 3k, 5k and 8k.
I've found that it gives it a very unique look and great feel.
I thin mine too straight up laser beam status.... They perform for basic carbon knives !
Be weary of the belt grinder... Those ceramic belts chew through steel.. you'll start with a 165mm santoku and end up with a ~150mm bunka
I have the daovua 360mm slicer, amazing knife for the price. im still looking for a real sharpener down here in south florida, might resort to mail-in sharpening
@B Watt l would recommend Ryan Swanson with District Cutlery if you want the ultimate spa treatment for your slicer. But l would be happy to assist you if you want to keep your baby closer to home. Ryan is without a doubt the best choice in the Eastern US for this type of work, and he will finish your edge by hand on whetstones. I would do the entire job by hand on stones but would have to charge more than he does because l do not have the tools and expertise to do the bulk of the work with power tools. So l would absolutely recommend Ryan, but if l can ever be of service, please feel free to hit me up.
What's your target for behind the edge thickness?
- For my personal knives I like 0.005 to 0.006" but this may be too thin for harder culinary knife blades.
I've never actually measured this with calipers, but for my knives which will mostly be cutting meat and veggies, l like to get them to where it's basically a zero grind with a tiny microbevel. If I'm going after squashes or working around bones, l like it a little thicker, where the secondary bevel is distinctly visible. I'm pretty careful about avoiding potential chipping situations with my thinnest blades.
I had one, but they are really reactive!! Any idea on how to make it less reactive?
They get less reactive over time as they develop a solid patina, but yes, quite reactive. In the case of my knife, l didn't find the clean steel overly reactive but the areas above the bevel where the kurouchi finish was partially abraded away due to thinning are now extremely reactive. If l can't get it to settle down in time, l might just polish all that away.