And the customer will now own and amp better than just about any he could buy elsewhere . So as costly as it might be , it's still worth it for them , hard as it might be to convince them of this fact at the time . Beautiful job as usual .
I rebuilt a SF Bassman for a good friend that looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years. I think the only original parts left when I was done were the iron and the chassis. Couldn't even save the eyelet boards. Replaced them with fiberglass from Hoffman. No profit there but the "customer" is a legend from Detroit. I also did a near complete rebuild of a Marshall Club and Country for the same friend. My ocd feels your ocd...
I know someone will complain about the metal film resistors but I used Dale metal films on plates ofmy 69 drip twin and sometimes I forget its on its so quiet. You did everything right on this. You have to clean those boards. Much respect to your work! The customer will be pleased
Wow, thats some beautiful work, Brad! After explaining how bad all of those molded caps were I feel a lot better after replacing all the ones in this Vox Cambridge. They were even worse that those! I think I need some of that unmeltable cable in my life! Cool stuff!
Pretty sure you’ll remove sockets and such to clean the Shazzy completely. LOL Cause you’re really detail oriented as hell! You’re the Champion! Brad to the Rescue! Yaayyy!!!
I have come across two instances where a capacitor had one of it's solder leads literally come away from it, one was an old 10nF Tropical Fish capacitor, and the other was a brand-new 47nF Orange Drop cap with a solder lead that was loose, I could literally rotate the solder lead.
Beautiful work! Looking forward to Part 4. I expect you are too!! (And while I'm not particularly delicate, I do find your more thoughtful :) vocabulary makes for even more watchable videos. Thank you.)
Really exceptional work on show here Brad. The guitarists and musicians around your way are seriously lucky to have such a talented tech around. I'm sad to say that round these parts the techs would have just bodged it even further from how it was when you first got hold of it. You and Lyle and another chap in the UK (who goes by the name Mend It Mark on RUclips ) should be mandatory viewing for all engineering students.
I've got an old mid-70's non-reverb Fender Super Twin amp, think it's either a 1975 or 1976 model, anyway, I'm doing some servicing work on it to make it as noise-free as possible, I recently had to replace a total of five of the original carbon-comp resistors in it that were associated with the V1 circuitry in the preamp, one of the original resistors was a 47k/1W 10% that actually measured 53k which by my calculations is outside the normal 10% tolerance range, I used some new 1W/5% tolerance carbon film resistors as replacements, I'm also seriously thinking of replacing all the original valve sockets with a full set of ceramic ones, as well as doing a full re-cap job on the power supply board under the doghouse because the amp does have some noticeable residual background hum that the hum-balance control doesn't get rid-of, I'm going to be using the amp as part of a bass rig so i have something to play my Ibanez Soundgear 6-string bass through.
Check the match on your output valves as well as the ripple on the HT nodes. A re-cap is going to solve a lot of problems, despite what the "ain't broke, don't fix" crowd say. They never quote performance measurements. If an amp makes any noise at all, according to them, it "ain't broke". But the customer will be when they bring it back 15 times to get what should have been a whole job done.
Great job Brad. If you calculate the cost of an equivalent new amp that's made like this (if there's even one available), it would be $thousands£ and still wouldn't have a Fender badge or be historically valuable or sound quite the same . While 'this' amp will grow in value to a gigging guitarist, a new one will take many years to turn that corner...
Panasonic poly prop 630 volt caps are really a performance leader very fair price and sound good. If the price is open there are better sounding caps to me but not at their price. Consider it a learning job that you did profit from . Believe the rca 604 where 300 volt diodes . Personal preference is the uf 1007 or HER108 lower RF noise cost about the same.
Can, opened. Worms ... EVERYWHERE! On the bright side, the more stuff that crumbles as you touch it and needs to be replaced, the more bulletproof the end product.
They were the existing 1W carbon films. I reused them because their leads were the correct length and they within tolerance. They look to be Xicon or similar. The ones I used with the darker coating were Vishay. The ones with the lighter coating were Yageo. Both sourced from Digikey.
Makes me ashamed of my own work. Oh well, I don't charge anything, mostly for kids who can barely afford parts, let alone be critical of my soldering. My wife wants me to move them out the door faster! BTW D-Lab did an interesting video on whether LEDs uplighting tubes cause noise. Not sure if I agree with his method, but interesting!
pretty sure those beltons come in internal and external, think your using wrong ones there...I hate them, they burn to easy and pins pop through if you leave iron on them to long....your doing a good job though
I'm imagining what you'd be saying about the quality of the components and fittings if it wasn't Fender "the holy grail" of amps. Not picking on you personally. I just never hear a cross word about Fender. Even Marshall, Hiwatt, Vox, etc... get run down on some of their manufacturing and componentry decisions. It does make you appreciate the likes of Friedman who seems to only do top notch work.
Are you for real? You must be new here. LOL! I frequently express dismay regarding Fender making the same mistakes for decades and having no financial incentive to change. Marshall and their leaky JCM2000 PCB's that should have seen them sued into annihilation. Their new amps that are utter trash for the money they ask. Hiwatt, who are essentially a dead company, but when they make their 2-3 amps a year, they are either the cheapest made hybrid amps available from China or the overpriced "custom" range which have errors in the circuit or during construction. I've been over these issues many many times. It's my job to find problems, report them and fix them. Then people get upset that I find problems and report them.
@@BradsGuitarGarage I said I wasn't singling you out. But all the stuff you said was likely from the factory you mentioned but didn't berate them for it. And I said even those other brands get called out like they build junk, you even just basically said as much, but Fender doesn't get the same level of scorn. Just my observation. And when I mention those other brands I'm talking their vintage stuff. Pretty much all the major brands have cut their quality to the bone today, it seems.
Yeah, just joking around mate. Well, besides the wax thing, and the silly CBS era spaghetti monsters, they were essentially still very well built, and therefore undeserving of scorn, I guess. All amps have their weaknesses. AB763's are generally very resilient though.
@@BradsGuitarGarage My personal take on techs is, because of when and how they see equipment, they have a different outlook than the typical user. Fenders and such are all generally a single "layer" that's easy to work on. Other amps you have to remove boards to get to other boards beneath them etc. And it seems that's where the problems often reside making the repair a PITA. Users just care about sound, features, etc... I think any amp that's 30+ years old, 50 in the case of this amp and it's had some real cowboy repairs/mods, doesn't owe the owner anything if it needs repairs. Especially things like caps, pots, and resistors. They wear out. I mean even the Dielectric on the wiring was shot. And if you can afford something like a Boogie or a German metal amp, fill in the blank for brands, you should be able to afford the repairs. As a tech just charge what the job is worth so you don't mind working on them. I used to work at a place that installed car alarms. This lady came in with a Jag XJR. I told her not to look at the prices on the board for labor. Jags are "special" and I'll have to ask the installer what he'll charge. I went back to him and he asked if I was there about the Jag out front. I said, yes. He said, "Tell her to take that thing and get it the hell out of here." I asked him, How much would it cost for him to not have me tell her that. He quoted me a price that was 2 or 3 times the normal installation price. He said she'll never pay it. I went out and told her. She said, That's great. Every place else told me they didn't want to work on it. Moral of the story, charge what the job is worth. If I brought a Boogie or H&K into a shop I'd expect it to be costly. But I'd also be impressed if you could even work on it.
Yeah, you never know, eh. I get people commenting that the repairs are ridiculous and nobody sane would pay for it, etc etc etc. But amps can have sentimental value, they're attached to memories of great gigs, or perhaps the owner is the new custodian after a family member or mate passed away. You never know. All I can do is tell them the estimate, allow some margin for unknowns, and make them aware of the current market value of the device, and they're free to say yay or nay.
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
I can smell it from here. Oh, wait, that's the '78 Vibrolux Reverb on my own bench. Same issues, same challenges.
Someone is going to have as good a Super Reverb as ever existed. Fantastic series!
Or a Twin?
Your healthy perfectionism could be mistaken as OCD. Thank you for sharing your work and random walkabouts. Your work is a joy to watch.
Well done. I'm also afflicted with OCD when it comes to restoring vintage amps and guitars. Looks stunning and it should outlive us all... Cheers!
And the customer will now own and amp better than just about any he could buy elsewhere . So as costly as it might be , it's still worth it for them , hard as it might be to convince them of this fact at the time . Beautiful job as usual .
Nice work you young guys have way more patience than us old timers.
Gorgeous work. Looks brand new!
That's a really neat job Brad - stunning.
I rebuilt a SF Bassman for a good friend that looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years. I think the only original parts left when I was done were the iron and the chassis. Couldn't even save the eyelet boards. Replaced them with fiberglass from Hoffman. No profit there but the "customer" is a legend from Detroit. I also did a near complete rebuild of a Marshall Club and Country for the same friend. My ocd feels your ocd...
Looks spectacular.
Have a pint after work. You have earned it.
Excellent work! I've done this same job to multiple Black Panel Supers, sans the wax.
I know someone will complain about the metal film resistors but I used Dale metal films on plates ofmy 69 drip twin and sometimes I forget its on its so quiet. You did everything right on this. You have to clean those boards. Much respect to your work! The customer will be pleased
Wow, thats some beautiful work, Brad!
After explaining how bad all of those molded caps were I feel a lot better after replacing all the ones in this Vox Cambridge. They were even worse that those!
I think I need some of that unmeltable cable in my life! Cool stuff!
Brad, that main board is a work of art!
This is up there with the burnt JMP that Lyle fixed up, fantastic transformation.
And yes, I agree, broken solder tags on valve sockets are a royal pain so I don't blame you for swearing about it.
Superb job Brad! your customer really wants this amp to be above par, and he took it to the right place!
Pretty sure you’ll remove sockets and such to clean the Shazzy completely. LOL Cause you’re really detail oriented as hell! You’re the Champion! Brad to the Rescue! Yaayyy!!!
I know that Mojotone has exact 1 inch Fender power tube sockets. Not as nice as Beltons, the solder lugs are pretty thin but they fit perfectly.
I have come across two instances where a capacitor had one of it's solder leads literally come away from it, one was an old 10nF Tropical Fish capacitor, and the other was a brand-new 47nF Orange Drop cap with a solder lead that was loose, I could literally rotate the solder lead.
No fun having to do that much on a single job, but it's nice seeing the quality of work you're doing!
Beautiful work! Looking forward to Part 4. I expect you are too!!
(And while I'm not particularly delicate, I do find your more thoughtful :) vocabulary makes for even more watchable videos. Thank you.)
Gorgeous work. Anyone put off by your vocabulary can just hit the effing trail!
This like watching my life on YT ... great work!
Beautiful job 👏👏
Great series mate! It's more of a BGG than a Fender now!
Brother, that rewire looks freaking amazing! Setting the standard! I'm gonna pants my SF this weekend and check it over. You've inspired me!
Really nice and neat build work there by the way.
ah, a thing of beauty. Looks so much better with the wax off and crap removed. 👍 been interesting listening to the ups and downs of this job.
Beautiful work.
Great work Brad.
Super good work! New amp day!
Really exceptional work on show here Brad. The guitarists and musicians around your way are seriously lucky to have such a talented tech around. I'm sad to say that round these parts the techs would have just bodged it even further from how it was when you first got hold of it. You and Lyle and another chap in the UK (who goes by the name Mend It Mark on RUclips ) should be mandatory viewing for all engineering students.
Beatiful job Brab
I've got an old mid-70's non-reverb Fender Super Twin amp, think it's either a 1975 or 1976 model, anyway, I'm doing some servicing work on it to make it as noise-free as possible, I recently had to replace a total of five of the original carbon-comp resistors in it that were associated with the V1 circuitry in the preamp, one of the original resistors was a 47k/1W 10% that actually measured 53k which by my calculations is outside the normal 10% tolerance range, I used some new 1W/5% tolerance carbon film resistors as replacements, I'm also seriously thinking of replacing all the original valve sockets with a full set of ceramic ones, as well as doing a full re-cap job on the power supply board under the doghouse because the amp does have some noticeable residual background hum that the hum-balance control doesn't get rid-of, I'm going to be using the amp as part of a bass rig so i have something to play my Ibanez Soundgear 6-string bass through.
Check the match on your output valves as well as the ripple on the HT nodes. A re-cap is going to solve a lot of problems, despite what the "ain't broke, don't fix" crowd say. They never quote performance measurements. If an amp makes any noise at all, according to them, it "ain't broke". But the customer will be when they bring it back 15 times to get what should have been a whole job done.
Great job Brad. If you calculate the cost of an equivalent new amp that's made like this (if there's even one available), it would be $thousands£ and still wouldn't have a Fender badge or be historically valuable or sound quite the same . While 'this' amp will grow in value to a gigging guitarist, a new one will take many years to turn that corner...
Panasonic poly prop 630 volt caps are really a performance leader very fair price and sound good. If the price is open there are better sounding caps to me but not at their price. Consider it a learning job that you did profit from . Believe the rca 604 where 300 volt diodes . Personal preference is the uf 1007 or HER108 lower RF noise cost about the same.
Looked up that hook up wire and disappointed to see it's discontinued. Looks like CN679A-25-ND is pretty similar.
killer job!
Can, opened. Worms ... EVERYWHERE!
On the bright side, the more stuff that crumbles as you touch it and needs to be replaced, the more bulletproof the end product.
Anybody care to give details on the changes to the reverb driver? What’s the new resistor‘s value? Thanks and keep it up Brad!
I changed it from 470Ω to 2200Ω.
Thanks for watching, mate!
Very nice. What kind of ceramics did you use there? I ordered some for my fenders and delivery blew out to next year
Vishay if possible. Just be mindful of the temperature coefficient.
Curious about the metal film resistors used. Vishay? Other? 2W in phase inverter circuit? What are those?
They were the existing 1W carbon films.
I reused them because their leads were the correct length and they within tolerance.
They look to be Xicon or similar.
The ones I used with the darker coating were Vishay.
The ones with the lighter coating were Yageo.
Both sourced from Digikey.
@@BradsGuitarGarage yup, I used DIGIKEY and MOUSER both and sometimes Arrow. AND I found the blue Jr tube board standoffs on Arrow 0.06$ USD.
Makes me ashamed of my own work. Oh well, I don't charge anything, mostly for kids who can barely afford parts, let alone be critical of my soldering. My wife wants me to move them out the door faster! BTW D-Lab did an interesting video on whether LEDs uplighting tubes cause noise. Not sure if I agree with his method, but interesting!
We can blame the bean-counters for those cheap and flimsy original octal sockets.
pretty sure those beltons come in internal and external, think your using wrong ones there...I hate them, they burn to easy and pins pop through if you leave iron on them to long....your doing a good job though
I've only ever been able to find this type. All my distributors and vendors worldwide only carry the one type of Belton octal with eyelets.
@@BradsGuitarGarage I've built several audio tube amps for myself,and have only found the ones you have used.
Solid whinge, but it’s looking awesome!
I'm imagining what you'd be saying about the quality of the components and fittings if it wasn't Fender "the holy grail" of amps. Not picking on you personally. I just never hear a cross word about Fender. Even Marshall, Hiwatt, Vox, etc... get run down on some of their manufacturing and componentry decisions. It does make you appreciate the likes of Friedman who seems to only do top notch work.
Are you for real?
You must be new here. LOL!
I frequently express dismay regarding Fender making the same mistakes for decades and having no financial incentive to change. Marshall and their leaky JCM2000 PCB's that should have seen them sued into annihilation. Their new amps that are utter trash for the money they ask. Hiwatt, who are essentially a dead company, but when they make their 2-3 amps a year, they are either the cheapest made hybrid amps available from China or the overpriced "custom" range which have errors in the circuit or during construction. I've been over these issues many many times. It's my job to find problems, report them and fix them. Then people get upset that I find problems and report them.
@@BradsGuitarGarage I said I wasn't singling you out. But all the stuff you said was likely from the factory you mentioned but didn't berate them for it. And I said even those other brands get called out like they build junk, you even just basically said as much, but Fender doesn't get the same level of scorn. Just my observation. And when I mention those other brands I'm talking their vintage stuff. Pretty much all the major brands have cut their quality to the bone today, it seems.
Yeah, just joking around mate.
Well, besides the wax thing, and the silly CBS era spaghetti monsters, they were essentially still very well built, and therefore undeserving of scorn, I guess. All amps have their weaknesses. AB763's are generally very resilient though.
@@BradsGuitarGarage My personal take on techs is, because of when and how they see equipment, they have a different outlook than the typical user. Fenders and such are all generally a single "layer" that's easy to work on. Other amps you have to remove boards to get to other boards beneath them etc. And it seems that's where the problems often reside making the repair a PITA. Users just care about sound, features, etc...
I think any amp that's 30+ years old, 50 in the case of this amp and it's had some real cowboy repairs/mods, doesn't owe the owner anything if it needs repairs. Especially things like caps, pots, and resistors. They wear out. I mean even the Dielectric on the wiring was shot. And if you can afford something like a Boogie or a German metal amp, fill in the blank for brands, you should be able to afford the repairs. As a tech just charge what the job is worth so you don't mind working on them.
I used to work at a place that installed car alarms. This lady came in with a Jag XJR. I told her not to look at the prices on the board for labor. Jags are "special" and I'll have to ask the installer what he'll charge. I went back to him and he asked if I was there about the Jag out front. I said, yes. He said, "Tell her to take that thing and get it the hell out of here." I asked him, How much would it cost for him to not have me tell her that. He quoted me a price that was 2 or 3 times the normal installation price. He said she'll never pay it. I went out and told her. She said, That's great. Every place else told me they didn't want to work on it. Moral of the story, charge what the job is worth. If I brought a Boogie or H&K into a shop I'd expect it to be costly. But I'd also be impressed if you could even work on it.
Yeah, you never know, eh.
I get people commenting that the repairs are ridiculous and nobody sane would pay for it, etc etc etc.
But amps can have sentimental value, they're attached to memories of great gigs, or perhaps the owner is the new custodian after a family member or mate passed away. You never know.
All I can do is tell them the estimate, allow some margin for unknowns, and make them aware of the current market value of the device, and they're free to say yay or nay.
Keep swearing Brad