Thanks for the video. You are the only one on youtube to show how to take the governor out with these particular engines. I did it today and if it wasn't for this vid i wouldn't have known how to remove it! ...cheers 👊🏽👊🏽
Hey man, I recently built one of these engines similar to what you did and upgraded the flywheel. You'll notice that when you remove the flywheel, there's a pin on the top right, which is the entire governor. You can punch that pin out from the outside. It's much faster and can be done in seconds. Afterward, you just tap the hole and call it a day.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip. I will try that out on the next one. Was it easy enough to hammer out? Did you have to press it out or was a hammer and punch good enough?
I did love everything till the carb mount … definitely the blue aluminum piece mounted to the carb so u can check for the fit threw that side of the o ring .
I'm looking into sourcing a full Predator build kit. I need to do a bit more research on the piston sizes and such, but I'm hoping to build one this autumn or winter.
I use vice grips on the studs and turn them out that way. You can also use the two nuts and thread them on to the same stud. Tighten them against each other and then use the bottom one to unscrew the stud. Vice grips work better, IMO.
I reconnect the linkages before bolting the carb back on. It allows you more flexibility to get the little rods back in the holes. It is too hard to do after the carb is bolted back on.
Removing the governor can certainly lead to it blowing up. Just gotta be careful to not rev it too high for too long. I find that using a torque convertor helps to keeps the RPMs down.
So are you currently using this engine? If i do this govner delete with a stage one kit like here what rpms should i keep my engine under so it doesn't blow up ?
Yeah, I have this on a bike with a torque convertor. It helps to keep the engine from revving too high for too long. Not too sure what RPM you should be aiming for, but listen to the engine and keep it reasonable. Ha. The stock flywheels have apparently come apart at high RMPs on these types of small engines.
I have been looking at non Hemi Predator 212 kits on Ebay. I think they might work. Definitely something I want to try soon. Going to compare bore and stroke between the Predator and Powerfist engines before buying. Ha.
Yea my searching around found the flywheel should be good. Thats all I can find tho, deos your power fist have the cast cylinder sleeve i got the pro point 212cc for that reason.
I ordered them on Ebay. I searched for 18lb valve springs for a Honda GX200. There were tons of options. I picked the one that offered genuine Honda parts. They fit on the Powerfist perfectly.
Sure thing! I am wrapping up a project on my daily driver right now. I will get back to minibike, lawn tractors and other fun stuff shortly. Stay tuned! I'll try to get to it quickly. Maybe a short?!
Yessir, I am still running this engine. I don't hammer on it too hard - just cruising around the neighbourhood - and it has a torque convertor on it to keep the revs down. Obviously revving it hard for a sustained period of time will cause rapid disassembly, but so far, so good
@RideauValleyMotorsports sounds like a pretty good motor then thanks for the review, Yes just the odd full throttle rip when going down the highway is all I'm thinking. I purchase a CT200U for boming around the crown land next year, the Original Hisun motor is still running good so I may do a few mods on it and see how long it lasts. I will likely install a Tourqe converter as well I just dont want to cut off that rear support that holds the chain tentioner. People say you dont have to cut it if your running the 40T sprocket. Cheers try to stay warm ❄❄❄
I think that a spacer of 1.5 inch square tubing would bump the engine up enough to clear that rear support. My Coleman has an engine with a 5/8 output shaft which is too small for most of the common torque convertors. I bought a sleeve for the output shaft to beef it up to 3/4, but it seemed a bit janky so I never installed it. Good luck!
Not too sure, to be honest. I seem to recall hearing they were like 12 or 14lbs somewhere. Since they are governed from the factory, they don't need to be too stiff.
Great video. I have the same motor with similar setup. Running strong after many hard hours. All my parts were ordered from Amazon Canada - [x] Governor removed - [x] Valve springs - [x] Mikuni knockoff carb and 130 jet - [x] Fuel pump - [x] aluminum flywheel - [x] Header with 3/4” threaded muffler They seem to be pretty solid engines. All stock internals no issues yet
Cast aluminum flywheel? Billet flywheel? I know billet flywheels are expensive that’s why I’m thinking on getting a PVL a tad bit heavier, but does the same thing
There is no easy way. It will take a bit of patience and perseverance. I use flat bladed screw driver and just keep trying to work the tip between the C clip and the post. Eventually you will be able to get the blade in and pry it off. Sometimes I use a second screwdriver to push the other side if the clip tight against the post. Not a whole lot of room in there to maneuver, unfortunately. If you have an old/junk screwdriver, maybe try grinding the tip just a bit to make it easier to get in. I have been told that another way is to drive the post out from the side of the engine and then thread the hole and Loctite a bolt in. Never tried it myself, but I think there are videos out there showing this technique.
First video I've seen with a powerfist. I really like it. Big bore clone block with a straight valve head. And I would bet it's a better quality engine than the Predator. Hopefully that minibike gets a torque converter to limit the RPM. You may end up running too high RPM on stock internals and flywheel otherwise. Not a good idea.
Thanks! I was always curious if the were the same as Predators for after markets parts. I might try one with upgraded internals. See what it can really do!
@@RideauValleyMotorsports Welcome. It would be best if the internals and flywheel are not Predator specific parts. One way to find out prior to ordering anything is to disassemble and measure the rod journal on the crankshaft. If it is close to 1.180" then that's good. You would be able to conclude that it uses common "clone" parts, not Predator specific parts. In other words, if it uses clone parts the rod and flywheel you would need would not only fit the powerfist but they would also fit a 196 like the Hisun. I never liked the Pred 212's because they have a unique crankshaft and you have to get Predator specific rod and flywheel. Last spring I built the new Predator 224. I would have not got it if it used specific Predator parts. It uses a clone rod and flywheel. The rod and flywheel are important if you plan on running higher than 5K RPM. For example, the Hisun will not last as long as you would like if it spent a lot of time running above 5K RPM. And higher RPM with the stock flywheel is a safety concern on any of these engines. All "newer" engines of this type use clone parts. Hopefully the powerfist is the same.
I have not. I want to try out a full build on one of these. They seem to be pretty close to the non-hemi Predator 212s. I am doing some research currently. Hoping to build a high power, high revving version sometime this year. It would be nice on a minibike!
Hey I just bought a 420cc pro point motor for a go kart. I have one problem and the throttle pull thing is the opposite direction of the pedal will this carb sove it? Thanks
My understanding is that they're Honda clones. That said, I think there are only subtle differences between the Predators and the Hondas. My understanding is that the internals of the Predator engines (crankshaft, rods, etc.) are different than Hondas and specific to the Predator. Another viewer commented on this video with the specifics of the differences of the internals. I haven't tried changing out the flywheel or rods and pistons so I don't know first hand. I used a mixture of Honda GX200 and non-hemi Predator parts. All from eBay or Amazon.
I'm new at doing these mods, forgive me if I'm asking a stupid question. I have this exact engine. Can I put the muffler and updated carb on without removing the governor?
Yeah, you absolutely can. You might not get the best performance from them but they will work just fine. There are ways to bypass the governor if you don't want to take it all the way off. I think Rather Be Welding has a video on how to do this trick (pretty easy, as I recall). Good luck and have fun modding your engine.
Also, a torque converter would make a big difference even without the carb and exhaust. They are so much better than the little centrifugal clutches that come stock on most mini bikes and yard carts.
@@RideauValleyMotorsports awesome thank you for that info. Does the torque converter change the position of the chain a fair bit? Chain at Centrifugal is tight to the engine.
@@spekky9012 You will probably need to shroten the chain - the torque convertor I have was pretty long. You might need to add a spacer under the engine or remove parts of the frame, depending on the bike. Nothing too major.
Hey man your a life saver I got a question, if I replace the carb and exhaust do I need to remove the silver throttle thing on top? The thing that spins right under the engine?
If you replaced the stock carb with a Mikuni style carb then you don't need any of the stock throttle bits. When I replace the stock carb with a better version of the stock carb then I use parts of the stock throttle to attach the linkage to the new carb. There is an arm looking thing that pivots on a center stud with a nut on it. I like to use that part to hook up the cable to the new carb. It has the springs and such that makes the throttle return to closed when you let off the gas. I usually remove the governor as a first step so all those bits are gone, though. Best of luck with the build!
I slapped this engine stock on my baja mini bike, the top out at 43km, if i strictly just removed the governor, what kind of speed do you think id gain?
Not too sure, to be honest. Removing the governor allows the engine to rev higher (at the risk of blowing it up, though), so you should see more speed, just not sure how much. I have found that changing out the clutch for a torque convertor gives the best bang for your buck. A stock engine with a torque convertor is probably the safest way (in terms of not blowing up the engine) to get some more top end speed.
@@frankluzzi681 I don't think it would prevent it from over-revving really. Not too sure though, to be honest! I suspect you could still over rev it and blow it up with a torque converter on.
Removing the governor let's you rev the engine higher. All the other mods are meant to either get more air and fuel in or to get the exhaust gasses out quicker. All in all, these mods unlock the potential of this engine. Such a huge difference in performance. I have a fully stock bike with a governed 196cc engine that tops out at about 30 km/h. This engine is on a different bike and I have had it up around 55 km/h. Admittedly, some of that gain is the torque convertor, but the engine itself contributes a lot. Sounds way better too!
Hello, it is a 22mm "Mikuni" (knockoff, likely) from Amazon. If you search 22mm Mikuni you should get all sorts of options. I'd recommend buying a jet kit too as the jets that come with it are pretty small and will probably need to be changed out for it to run right.
If it only runs on choke, that suggests that it is running lean. The carb might need adjusting or cleaning. Sounds like it is not getting enough fuel, in any case.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey.....Great voice Bud...... If this powerfist gig doesn't work out, you have a great future in music. Move over John R Cash.
Thanks for the video. You are the only one on youtube to show how to take the governor out with these particular engines. I did it today and if it wasn't for this vid i wouldn't have known how to remove it! ...cheers 👊🏽👊🏽
Thank you very much! Glad to hear it. What's the engine going in?
@@RideauValleyMotorsports a mini bike lool baja dirt bug 😆
@@jimmiejohnson4856 that's awesome!
Hey man, I recently built one of these engines similar to what you did and upgraded the flywheel. You'll notice that when you remove the flywheel, there's a pin on the top right, which is the entire governor. You can punch that pin out from the outside. It's much faster and can be done in seconds. Afterward, you just tap the hole and call it a day.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip. I will try that out on the next one. Was it easy enough to hammer out? Did you have to press it out or was a hammer and punch good enough?
@@RideauValleyMotorsports It's pretty easy to just hammer it out with a punch
Passing along a tip I found elsewhere but you can stuff some rope into the sparkplug hole to keep the valves from dropping.
Nice. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks for the tip!
I did love everything till the carb mount … definitely the blue aluminum piece mounted to the carb so u can check for the fit threw that side of the o ring .
Seems that you need a gasket between the engine and intake. Good show
What about a billet rod and flywheel ?
I'm looking into sourcing a full Predator build kit. I need to do a bit more research on the piston sizes and such, but I'm hoping to build one this autumn or winter.
Brother how did you remove the big two screws that were holding in the carb?
Also how did you connect all the connections to the new carb?
I use vice grips on the studs and turn them out that way. You can also use the two nuts and thread them on to the same stud. Tighten them against each other and then use the bottom one to unscrew the stud. Vice grips work better, IMO.
I reconnect the linkages before bolting the carb back on. It allows you more flexibility to get the little rods back in the holes. It is too hard to do after the carb is bolted back on.
Will the engine be safe this way without the governor??
Removing the governor can certainly lead to it blowing up. Just gotta be careful to not rev it too high for too long. I find that using a torque convertor helps to keeps the RPMs down.
So are you currently using this engine? If i do this govner delete with a stage one kit like here what rpms should i keep my engine under so it doesn't blow up ?
Yeah, I have this on a bike with a torque convertor. It helps to keep the engine from revving too high for too long. Not too sure what RPM you should be aiming for, but listen to the engine and keep it reasonable. Ha.
The stock flywheels have apparently come apart at high RMPs on these types of small engines.
Have you found a billet flywheel for these engines? and better rods and pistons i cant find any info are they the same at predator 212 or tilitson
I have been looking at non Hemi Predator 212 kits on Ebay. I think they might work. Definitely something I want to try soon. Going to compare bore and stroke between the Predator and Powerfist engines before buying. Ha.
Yea my searching around found the flywheel should be good. Thats all I can find tho, deos your power fist have the cast cylinder sleeve i got the pro point 212cc for that reason.
where did you find those valve springs? i would like to know, i am doing this exact same setup, did they come from a GX200?
I ordered them on Ebay. I searched for 18lb valve springs for a Honda GX200. There were tons of options. I picked the one that offered genuine Honda parts. They fit on the Powerfist perfectly.
can you make a video on how to reset valve leash..or what tool did you use when you put the valve springs back on? Those flate silver tool?
Sure thing! I am wrapping up a project on my daily driver right now. I will get back to minibike, lawn tractors and other fun stuff shortly. Stay tuned! I'll try to get to it quickly. Maybe a short?!
@@RideauValleyMotorsports thanks man! You're awsome
What size bolt did you use to fill the governor
I think it was a 5/16 bolt with coarse thread.
Hey those things run like crap when there is too much air flow from wht I've noticed. Took a while to figure that out and not sure why!
Yeah! I upped it to 125 or so. Way better.
Needs a Gasket between engine and intake!! I liked the video tho
@@blakefrohlick356 There was an o-ring on this one. Seems to keep everything sealed up. I will use an old stock gasket though if it becomes a problem.
Hello goood Canadian Sir, are you still running this engine ? If the mods are done right do they last a while ?
Yessir, I am still running this engine. I don't hammer on it too hard - just cruising around the neighbourhood - and it has a torque convertor on it to keep the revs down. Obviously revving it hard for a sustained period of time will cause rapid disassembly, but so far, so good
@RideauValleyMotorsports sounds like a pretty good motor then thanks for the review, Yes just the odd full throttle rip when going down the highway is all I'm thinking. I purchase a CT200U for boming around the crown land next year, the Original Hisun motor is still running good so I may do a few mods on it and see how long it lasts. I will likely install a Tourqe converter as well I just dont want to cut off that rear support that holds the chain tentioner. People say you dont have to cut it if your running the 40T sprocket. Cheers try to stay warm ❄❄❄
I think that a spacer of 1.5 inch square tubing would bump the engine up enough to clear that rear support. My Coleman has an engine with a 5/8 output shaft which is too small for most of the common torque convertors. I bought a sleeve for the output shaft to beef it up to 3/4, but it seemed a bit janky so I never installed it. Good luck!
Do you by chance know how many pounds the original valve springs are?
Not too sure, to be honest. I seem to recall hearing they were like 12 or 14lbs somewhere. Since they are governed from the factory, they don't need to be too stiff.
Will this work on 6.5 hp 208cc power fist engine
Yes, the exhaust and carb will definitely fit. I don't think the 208cc has a hemi head so the valve stems should work too. Good luck!
Great video. I have the same motor with similar setup. Running strong after many hard hours. All my parts were ordered from Amazon Canada
- [x] Governor removed
- [x] Valve springs
- [x] Mikuni knockoff carb and 130 jet
- [x] Fuel pump
- [x] aluminum flywheel
- [x] Header with 3/4” threaded muffler
They seem to be pretty solid engines. All stock internals no issues yet
Awesome! Glad to hear it's a reliable setup. Mine is going strong too. Haven't put many hours on it yet though. Thanks for the watch!
Cast aluminum flywheel? Billet flywheel? I know billet flywheels are expensive that’s why I’m thinking on getting a PVL a tad bit heavier, but does the same thing
@@CheapMechanics101 running the stocker currently. Not being too rowdy with it so it should be fine for now.
How did you take out that clip holding down the governor gear, im trying to do the same with my engine and im having issues getting it out
There is no easy way. It will take a bit of patience and perseverance. I use flat bladed screw driver and just keep trying to work the tip between the C clip and the post. Eventually you will be able to get the blade in and pry it off. Sometimes I use a second screwdriver to push the other side if the clip tight against the post. Not a whole lot of room in there to maneuver, unfortunately.
If you have an old/junk screwdriver, maybe try grinding the tip just a bit to make it easier to get in.
I have been told that another way is to drive the post out from the side of the engine and then thread the hole and Loctite a bolt in. Never tried it myself, but I think there are videos out there showing this technique.
Thanks for the tips I got it out by just breaking the gear, also what mm is your carburetor that you put on ?
@@orenwright4593 It is a 22mm Mikuni knockoff.
First video I've seen with a powerfist. I really like it. Big bore clone block with a straight valve head. And I would bet it's a better quality engine than the Predator.
Hopefully that minibike gets a torque converter to limit the RPM. You may end up running too high RPM on stock internals and flywheel otherwise. Not a good idea.
Thanks! I was always curious if the were the same as Predators for after markets parts. I might try one with upgraded internals. See what it can really do!
@@RideauValleyMotorsports Welcome.
It would be best if the internals and flywheel are not Predator specific parts. One way to find out prior to ordering anything is to disassemble and measure the rod journal on the crankshaft. If it is close to 1.180" then that's good. You would be able to conclude that it uses common "clone" parts, not Predator specific parts.
In other words, if it uses clone parts the rod and flywheel you would need would not only fit the powerfist but they would also fit a 196 like the Hisun.
I never liked the Pred 212's because they have a unique crankshaft and you have to get Predator specific rod and flywheel. Last spring I built the new Predator 224. I would have not got it if it used specific Predator parts. It uses a clone rod and flywheel.
The rod and flywheel are important if you plan on running higher than 5K RPM. For example, the Hisun will not last as long as you would like if it spent a lot of time running above 5K RPM. And higher RPM with the stock flywheel is a safety concern on any of these engines.
All "newer" engines of this type use clone parts. Hopefully the powerfist is the same.
Wow! Thanks for all the info. I didn't realize that the Predator internals were different. I will have to measure one up and see what's what.
@@RideauValleyMotorsports some are but i have a predator upgraded crankshaft and it won’t fit in the power fist have a few predator parts on it though
Just curious if you have found a billet flywheel that will work with the power fist engine yet?
I have not. I want to try out a full build on one of these. They seem to be pretty close to the non-hemi Predator 212s. I am doing some research currently. Hoping to build a high power, high revving version sometime this year. It would be nice on a minibike!
What is the torque specs? And you uprraded to 140 jet for the carb?
No idea on the torque specs, haha. It pulls though. I think I have the 125 or 135 in there? 140 seemed a bit too rich, if I recall correctly.
Hey I just bought a 420cc pro point motor for a go kart. I have one problem and the throttle pull thing is the opposite direction of the pedal will this carb sove it? Thanks
You run it of throttle arm as well . Should be able to work it both ways
The action on the carb in the video is straight up and down. Should work for most setups.
Where did u get the parts for it
I ordered all of it from Amazon. All the parts were for Honda GX200 engines. I think I had to get the valve springs from eBay?
Question: What did you set the valve lash to? I did 2000ths for intake and 3000ths for exhaust. Is that too close?
Yes, I did. I believe that is what there were set to. The exhaust is always a bit looser as it expands when it gets hot.
Are these engines that same as the predator engines?
My understanding is that they're Honda clones. That said, I think there are only subtle differences between the Predators and the Hondas. My understanding is that the internals of the Predator engines (crankshaft, rods, etc.) are different than Hondas and specific to the Predator.
Another viewer commented on this video with the specifics of the differences of the internals. I haven't tried changing out the flywheel or rods and pistons so I don't know first hand.
I used a mixture of Honda GX200 and non-hemi Predator parts. All from eBay or Amazon.
I'm new at doing these mods, forgive me if I'm asking a stupid question. I have this exact engine. Can I put the muffler and updated carb on without removing the governor?
Yeah, you absolutely can. You might not get the best performance from them but they will work just fine. There are ways to bypass the governor if you don't want to take it all the way off. I think Rather Be Welding has a video on how to do this trick (pretty easy, as I recall). Good luck and have fun modding your engine.
Also, a torque converter would make a big difference even without the carb and exhaust. They are so much better than the little centrifugal clutches that come stock on most mini bikes and yard carts.
@@RideauValleyMotorsports awesome thank you for that info. Does the torque converter change the position of the chain a fair bit? Chain at Centrifugal is tight to the engine.
@@spekky9012 You will probably need to shroten the chain - the torque convertor I have was pretty long. You might need to add a spacer under the engine or remove parts of the frame, depending on the bike. Nothing too major.
Hey man your a life saver I got a question, if I replace the carb and exhaust do I need to remove the silver throttle thing on top? The thing that spins right under the engine?
If you replaced the stock carb with a Mikuni style carb then you don't need any of the stock throttle bits.
When I replace the stock carb with a better version of the stock carb then I use parts of the stock throttle to attach the linkage to the new carb. There is an arm looking thing that pivots on a center stud with a nut on it. I like to use that part to hook up the cable to the new carb. It has the springs and such that makes the throttle return to closed when you let off the gas.
I usually remove the governor as a first step so all those bits are gone, though.
Best of luck with the build!
where did you get your parts from
I got the valve springs on eBay and the carb and exhaust header on Amazon. All the parts were for either a Honda GX200 or a Predator 212 (non-hemi).
That’s a great video pal !!! You make me feel like I can do this !!! Lol
You can do it!
I slapped this engine stock on my baja mini bike, the top out at 43km, if i strictly just removed the governor, what kind of speed do you think id gain?
Not too sure, to be honest. Removing the governor allows the engine to rev higher (at the risk of blowing it up, though), so you should see more speed, just not sure how much. I have found that changing out the clutch for a torque convertor gives the best bang for your buck. A stock engine with a torque convertor is probably the safest way (in terms of not blowing up the engine) to get some more top end speed.
Would installing a torque converter on a governor-removed engine keep it from over-revving?
@@frankluzzi681 I don't think it would prevent it from over-revving really. Not too sure though, to be honest! I suspect you could still over rev it and blow it up with a torque converter on.
are predator 212cc engine non hemi parts compatible with this engine?
I don't think the rotating assembly is compatible, but the valve springs and intake/exhaust parts all seem to work so far.
@@RideauValleyMotorsports thanks
Great job!
Thanks!
What does that do
Removing the governor let's you rev the engine higher. All the other mods are meant to either get more air and fuel in or to get the exhaust gasses out quicker. All in all, these mods unlock the potential of this engine. Such a huge difference in performance.
I have a fully stock bike with a governed 196cc engine that tops out at about 30 km/h. This engine is on a different bike and I have had it up around 55 km/h. Admittedly, some of that gain is the torque convertor, but the engine itself contributes a lot. Sounds way better too!
@@RideauValleyMotorsports oh, do u think I should do this to my engine, I have the same one
Are you planning on a new flywheel?
I'm looking into it. This engine seems pretty good so I think I might.
Hey can you tell me what carb that is ?
Hello, it is a 22mm "Mikuni" (knockoff, likely) from Amazon. If you search 22mm Mikuni you should get all sorts of options. I'd recommend buying a jet kit too as the jets that come with it are pretty small and will probably need to be changed out for it to run right.
Awesome ! Thanks man
I have the same engine, no mods. yet when it runs it’s choppy and dies instantly when the choke is turned off. what is the issue?
If it only runs on choke, that suggests that it is running lean. The carb might need adjusting or cleaning. Sounds like it is not getting enough fuel, in any case.
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Thank you!
10:50 the lady bug lol
They're everywhere around here!