I have a washer that I'm in the process of restoring,Ive had it for 30 something years,something Ive come to realize about these direct drive washers is how easy they are to take apart, literally if you are somewhat mechanically inclined you can have one of these completely apart in 10 minutes,the only problem you can run into is taking the inner tub apart because they became fused to the drive block due to year after year of soap and dirt,all you have to do is rent a 3 or 2 jaw puller from your local auto parts store, dont hit it hard or nothing, the jaw puller will do the work for you. They just about sell every part for these,in the last 40 years they have changed very little,some have more functions than others,maybe a few more dials but inside they are just about the same,the guy that designed these probably spent many afternoons under a palm tree with a umbrella drink,a excellent and simple design for sure.
Thanks, Steve, for such a thorough presentation of how to disassemble and assemble this machine. I need to clean out all the gunk on the inner and outer tubs that is producing a sour smell. Now I can confidently tackle the job. I may go ahead and replace the tub wear pads since I'll have it apart. Your tutorials are incredibly useful.
you should of just use a 2x4'' under the unit to lift it up and pop in the 3 pads so fast and easy to do... i just cannot understand why you would tear it down???
@@joeburttschell1286 The part where he removes the tub with the tub wrench... never goes that easy in real life... that is a PITA. Just get down to the tub, but removing the "white metal covering parts" Then remove the springs, not the way he shows, just unhook them from the bottom, attaching to the base. Then the tub will move out of the way enough for you to change the pads. I use a jack stand that hold each side up one at a time. DONOTREMOVE THE SPRING HOLDER THINGY WHERE HE UNDOES THE TWO SCREWS. Just remove them how I said. But your pads are fine, and you are thinking it will fix you unbalancing issue and changing the pads will not do that... and I can guarantee your pads are fine. Am I right about the issue you are having?
@@ACoustaDC Then what do you recommend ? I replaced both the 3 pads and the 4 springs and it got a bit more stable. The old pads (24yrs) didn't look much different from the new ones.
@@pmarquisYT exactly... replacing pads wont do it. do you know how to balance the machine by lifting the rear of the machine and letting the legs "self balance"? What is the surface your machine is on?
@@pmarquisYTI’ve replaced so many of these without even taking the machine apart. Lean the machine back, let it rest up against a wall. Climb under is, stick a flat head in between the base and the tub, pry up just enough to pop the old pads out, then do the same but installing them. In and out in less than 5 minutes.
Need help... I did the clutch repair on a LSR7010pq1. The center shaft was corroded and would not come out. Took a lot of effort, hammering and time but I got it out. I removed the inner spin basket thinking it would help me get the shaft out. Wrong. The drive block is stuck in the basket and no amount of hammering with a 4lb mallet will set it free. Replaced clutch and reassembled without issue. The drive block was very difficult to tighten and get it to lock on the shaft. But I got it tight. Now when empty, Low spin is fine but in high spin it goes violently out of balance. I checked the suspension components and they are all in tact. The Spin basket remained attached to the shaft after several tests. Not sure what went wrong. I think it is related to the drive block or the basket. What confuses me is that it is fine on low spin. I am going to run it without the Spin basket to see what happens. Any Ideas what my problem is ?
Thanks for this video. I just replaced both types of wear blocks on my washer. The worst part of this was trying to separate the tub from the basket drive shaft. Mine did not just lift out-it took over an hour and a lot of WD-40 for it to finally break free. I also replaced the seal at the bottom of the outer tub while I had it apart. With the cost of both types of wear pads, the basket drive shaft seal, a replacement clamp and the spanner wrench, the total cost was around $60.00. The guys at the appliance parts house (APCO) were a lot of help too. It felt great making the repair myself and best of all, it stopped the violent shaking during the spin cycle. Again Steve, thanks for this video.
Mine took an automotive gear puller to seperate the tub from the basket drive. I swear to god, it's not just a simple nudge nudge, wink wink. It was a NIGHTMARE after 18 years?
I have what looks to be almost the same whirlpool washer that's shaking and vibrating during the spin cycle. The clothes are wetter than they should be at the end of the spin cycle. Would the vibrating cause the clothes to still be wet? And if i order and replace the wear pads, should I replace the suspension spring while I'm at it? Also do you sell the spanner wrench? Model WTW5310VQ0
If the wear pads are worn badly then the suspension springs may need to be replaced as well. Check the clutch operation for poor spin performance as well.
I bought the parts on your website, changing the pads fixed the bad vibrations of my washer. But while the process you describe is very safe, it's much more complex and requires a special tool. So I followed the instructions on this other video, and used a stick to keep the gap open while I changed the pad: ruclips.net/video/Fg8xTKR9qAU/видео.html
I have a washer that Ive had for 30 years that looked about 6 times worse than this one,it finally broke down a week ago and i just got all my parts in,i have access to a sandblaster and paint, its gonna look like a Ferrari when I'm done,i cant stand putting something back together all grimy and dirty but i figured this might have been just a video to show how to do certain things.
I just worked on a 19 year old Kenmore, same setup, same washer , same part numbers. Cheap as these upper and lower wear and friction pads are, and having the washer this far apart why would you not go ahead and replace the upper set of pads as well as the lower ones just because youre there--? I replaced both sets and they cost me all of $15.00 total and I did it without removing the drum, just the pump and motor (easy!). I also removed the suspension springs so I wouldn't have to fight them, I didn't remove the tub brackets where they are attached, just used vise grips to detach the springs from their holes. I also removed the motor and motor plate for more access as I was replacing the motor coupling anyway. Per a Y.T. video I used a 30" 1"x4" board with a 2" notch on the end to lever with the notch end from the lower rear frame with a 2" x 4" block between the front lower frame and 1"x4" to lift up the tub and transmission enough to gain access and allow movement of the metal plate where the wear pads are attached. NOTE: make sure you mark this plates original position and get it back to that same position when done with the pads. Admittedly its a little more tedious to work with the tub on especially on the upper wear pads, but its doable and not removing the tub was less involved and avoids risking a possible leak. I also replaced the back counter balance spring ($5.00) and drilled a new hole where its attached at the bottom, the spring eventually wears out the hole and comes loose. As this washer was almost 20 years old I also replaced the motor coupling ($3.77) while I was there, to my surprise it was the original and had not cracked or come apart yet - the replacement is improved and has metal inserts where the shafts go in. This work gave a definite improvement in the spin cycle, but I may still replace the three suspension springs under the tub to see if theres any more improvement to be gained. I find these washers very easy to work on and parts are fairly cheap, though if you want to remove the tub you will need to buy the special tub nut spanner wrench, might as well buy the universal one that works on different styles of nuts, same price. Any other method risks damage to the inner tub porcelain or the nut itself, even with the wrench be careful with that hammer-! This was easier to work on than my 40 year old GE Filter Flo, but its not near as well built as the old 1977 GE either. My old GE didn't need any real repairs until this year, no way any of todays appliances can match that degree of longevity.
I have a washer that I'm in the process of restoring,Ive had it for 30 something years,something Ive come to realize about these direct drive washers is how easy they are to take apart, literally if you are somewhat mechanically inclined you can have one of these completely apart in 10 minutes,the only problem you can run into is taking the inner tub apart because they became fused to the drive block due to year after year of soap and dirt,all you have to do is rent a 3 or 2 jaw puller from your local auto parts store, dont hit it hard or nothing, the jaw puller will do the work for you.
They just about sell every part for these,in the last 40 years they have changed very little,some have more functions than others,maybe a few more dials but inside they are just about the same,the guy that designed these probably spent many afternoons under a palm tree with a umbrella drink,a excellent and simple design for sure.
Thanks, Steve, for such a thorough presentation of how to disassemble and assemble this machine. I need to clean out all the gunk on the inner and outer tubs that is producing a sour smell. Now I can confidently tackle the job. I may go ahead and replace the tub wear pads since I'll have it apart. Your tutorials are incredibly useful.
you should of just use a 2x4'' under the unit to lift it up and pop in the 3 pads so fast and easy to do... i just cannot understand why you would tear it down???
You just made this so much harder than it needs to be.
How?
@@joeburttschell1286 The part where he removes the tub with the tub wrench... never goes that easy in real life... that is a PITA. Just get down to the tub, but removing the "white metal covering parts" Then remove the springs, not the way he shows, just unhook them from the bottom, attaching to the base. Then the tub will move out of the way enough for you to change the pads. I use a jack stand that hold each side up one at a time. DONOTREMOVE THE SPRING HOLDER THINGY WHERE HE UNDOES THE TWO SCREWS. Just remove them how I said. But your pads are fine, and you are thinking it will fix you unbalancing issue and changing the pads will not do that... and I can guarantee your pads are fine. Am I right about the issue you are having?
@@ACoustaDC Then what do you recommend ? I replaced both the 3 pads and the 4 springs and it got a bit more stable. The old pads (24yrs) didn't look much different from the new ones.
@@pmarquisYT exactly... replacing pads wont do it. do you know how to balance the machine by lifting the rear of the machine and letting the legs "self balance"? What is the surface your machine is on?
@@pmarquisYTI’ve replaced so many of these without even taking the machine apart. Lean the machine back, let it rest up against a wall. Climb under is, stick a flat head in between the base and the tub, pry up just enough to pop the old pads out, then do the same but installing them. In and out in less than 5 minutes.
Not gonna clean the tub while it is out?
Need help... I did the clutch repair on a LSR7010pq1. The center shaft was corroded and would not come out. Took a lot of effort, hammering and time but I got it out. I removed the inner spin basket thinking it would help me get the shaft out. Wrong.
The drive block is stuck in the basket and no amount of hammering with a 4lb mallet will set it free. Replaced clutch and reassembled without issue. The drive block was very difficult to tighten and get it to lock on the shaft. But I got it tight. Now when empty, Low spin is fine but in high spin it goes violently out of balance.
I checked the suspension components and they are all in tact. The Spin basket remained attached to the shaft after several tests.
Not sure what went wrong. I think it is related to the drive block or the basket. What confuses me is that it is fine on low spin.
I am going to run it without the Spin basket to see what happens.
Any Ideas what my problem is ?
Thanks for this video. I just replaced both types of wear blocks on my washer. The worst part of this was trying to separate the tub from the basket drive shaft. Mine did not just lift out-it took over an hour and a lot of WD-40 for it to finally break free. I also replaced the seal at the bottom of the outer tub while I had it apart. With the cost of both types of wear pads, the basket drive shaft seal, a replacement clamp and the spanner wrench, the total cost was around $60.00. The guys at the appliance parts house (APCO) were a lot of help too. It felt great making the repair myself and best of all, it stopped the violent shaking during the spin cycle. Again Steve, thanks for this video.
We also sell parts for your washer.
Mine took an automotive gear puller to seperate the tub from the basket drive. I swear to god, it's not just a simple nudge nudge, wink wink. It was a NIGHTMARE after 18 years?
What if you do t have a spanner wrench??
I have what looks to be almost the same whirlpool washer that's shaking and vibrating during the spin cycle. The clothes are wetter than they should be at the end of the spin cycle. Would the vibrating cause the clothes to still be wet? And if i order and replace the wear pads, should I replace the suspension spring while I'm at it? Also do you sell the spanner wrench? Model WTW5310VQ0
If the wear pads are worn badly then the suspension springs may need to be replaced as well. Check the clutch operation for poor spin performance as well.
I bought the parts on your website, changing the pads fixed the bad vibrations of my washer. But while the process you describe is very safe, it's much more complex and requires a special tool. So I followed the instructions on this other video, and used a stick to keep the gap open while I changed the pad: ruclips.net/video/Fg8xTKR9qAU/видео.html
That looks a LOT more doable. Thanks for suggesting this one.
Yeah no need to take everything apart like he does.
you should of installed a new tub seal,,,, all that work and no new seal just crazy...
I’d clean this before putting it back together. It’s pretty nasty.
I have a washer that Ive had for 30 years that looked about 6 times worse than this one,it finally broke down a week ago and i just got all my parts in,i have access to a sandblaster and paint, its gonna look like a Ferrari when I'm done,i cant stand putting something back together all grimy and dirty but i figured this might have been just a video to show how to do certain things.
My tub basket rusted off at the neck. My fixer said he sees that a lot. Bought a newer machine.
Itsa no for me. No way am I going to strip our washer down to the tub to put some pads in under the tub.
I just worked on a 19 year old Kenmore, same setup, same washer , same part numbers. Cheap as these upper and lower wear and friction pads are, and having the washer this far apart why would you not go ahead and replace the upper set of pads as well as the lower ones just because youre there--? I replaced both sets and they cost me all of $15.00 total and I did it without removing the drum, just the pump and motor (easy!). I also removed the suspension springs so I wouldn't have to fight them, I didn't remove the tub brackets where they are attached, just used vise grips to detach the springs from their holes. I also removed the motor and motor plate for more access as I was replacing the motor coupling anyway. Per a Y.T. video I used a 30" 1"x4" board with a 2" notch on the end to lever with the notch end from the lower rear frame with a 2" x 4" block between the front lower frame and 1"x4" to lift up the tub and transmission enough to gain access and allow movement of the metal plate where the wear pads are attached. NOTE: make sure you mark this plates original position and get it back to that same position when done with the pads. Admittedly its a little more tedious to work with the tub on especially on the upper wear pads, but its doable and not removing the tub was less involved and avoids risking a possible leak. I also replaced the back counter balance spring ($5.00) and drilled a new hole where its attached at the bottom, the spring eventually wears out the hole and comes loose. As this washer was almost 20 years old I also replaced the motor coupling ($3.77) while I was there, to my surprise it was the original and had not cracked or come apart yet - the replacement is improved and has metal inserts where the shafts go in. This work gave a definite improvement in the spin cycle, but I may still replace the three suspension springs under the tub to see if theres any more improvement to be gained. I find these washers very easy to work on and parts are fairly cheap, though if you want to remove the tub you will need to buy the special tub nut spanner wrench, might as well buy the universal one that works on different styles of nuts, same price. Any other method risks damage to the inner tub porcelain or the nut itself, even with the wrench be careful with that hammer-! This was easier to work on than my 40 year old GE Filter Flo, but its not near as well built as the old 1977 GE either. My old GE didn't need any real repairs until this year, no way any of todays appliances can match that degree of longevity.
We agree, that is the perfect opportunity to change both sets..
That was easy
I'd much rather live with a squeak, thank you.
Your camera guy - sucks - 50 % of the time he's 8 feet away !!!!