Okay a funny story. I was once hired to set up a digital room correction system for a person who reported the balance was always to one side. After getting the system channel matched across the whole frequency range I was later informed he was unhappy. I had not met the customer in person before this, just bought in to do the job. I sat next to him and explained how I had matched the channels from the listening position. After that he said "I'm sorry can you speak to my other side, I'm slightly deaf in this ear." :O True story! We all sometimes dont accept reality!
Sometimes i sit and notice a difference in pan and ithen, i have a test: i move my fingers near my ear. Sometimes the auditive channel need some cleaning, this is a task easily accomplished with a BIC pen cap...
This is what I like and need. Audio geeks talking geeky audio tech stuff that nobody wants to explore in depth. Make more videos about electronics, I think there are many people who likes this stuff.
one of the best videos you've made. understanding electrical engineering and what the components are doing to your signal is important IMO. thanks for the lesson. Cheers from LA
Just an engineer's plug here. These days we have powerful, buffered line outputs in audio interfaces, coupled with active studio monitors that have input amplification (and these days we get megaohms of input impedance in $1 opamps), meaning there's virtually no possibility you'll have problems due to impedance. DC blocking capacitors have to be in line with the signal, not put across input and ground like you have shown. A resistor and capacitor in series (which is what actually ends up happening) does not change the frequency response. Also, tbqh for better (and more consistent) stereo imaging I'd go for hooking up the pot to V+, having it supply a DC offset voltage that controls a stereo VCA that actually processes the signal. Lots of quality off-the-shelf VCA chips with way better parameters than a potentiometer.
Been using the Mackie Passive Big Knob for well over a year with no complaints. Honestly, at the price if it dies I’ll probably just get another one. Recommended. 👍
Can you guys tell me where I have to put the monitor controller in between? My set up is connected from 1. laptop to 2. Audio interface to 3. krk subwoofer with Exchange to 4. adam A7x to use the foot Pedal for muting the sub. Do I have to put it between the audio Interface and the sub connection?
I've got the same Mackie Big Knob. Great device, allows me to A/B the DAW interface output between small 5" reference monitors, and 8" inch monitors with a sub.
@@Gualaguala659 I haven't noticed anything. I'm using a MOTU 828 as my interface, with 2 different reference monitors. Neither of the monitors is extreme high-end, but I don't notice any sound degradation being caused by the Mackie.
Really great Video! I picked one of these up so I can A/B speaker sets coming from my symphony desktop, I planned to leave the max so I didn't think I would have any issue with L R difference . I don't hear any coloration in sound and think it does a great job for the price, but I noticed it introduced high frequency noise in my speakers. I opened it up to see the cheap circuitry and It got really annoying so I returned it and got the Heritage Audio Baby RAM. More then double the price but not worth putting the big knob it in the chain when I spent so much on Focal twins and mogami studio cables.
You are very accurate on the projected life of passive monitor switches. My first SM pro M patch 2 lasted 2 years and then became scratchy on the volume knob. When I used electronics cleaner to fix it. The stereo balance was slightly off. I replaced it with a Mackie passive Big Knob and hopefully I will get another two years of service. I might just build a 50 position 2 channel variable resistor board when the Mackie is end of life.
I have an RME 800 sound card that is my monitor controller. Main outs 1&2 go directly to the inputs of my main amp (Crown DC150 with inputs at wide open) and I control my monitoring levels via the RME interface software. It has 8 places to store your levels setup and I generally use 3, one for low level listening, one for mid level and one for loud monitoring all set precisely in steps of 6dB. This helps with getting consistent levels mix to mix. Even a slight difference in monitoring of as much as 1dB can make a significant difference to your perceived brightness or dullness of a track as with the low end. I recommend this if your sound card interface software can do it. Most importantly!!, my RME main out 7&8 go to my VU meters as well (1k@-12FS = 0VU)
I got a behringer control 2 too. Wanted to upgrade it since I’ve had it 3yrs. Looking at this, I became intrigued. Everything mentioned in this video is exactly what I needed to hear.
I have exactly the same big knob model showed on video. IMHO The sound is clear than like use a direct connection. Your point of view is correct about the interation betwhen the capacitor and resistor chain, but on my experience on work the mackie big knob dosen't change the sound. Cheers from Brazil
I considered monitor controllers from Mackie, Behringer, and Presonus. Honestly, I was not very impressed because I thought they were overly expensive for what they did. It was difficult for me to find only what I needed, without extra features that in my opinion didn't really belong in a monitor controller. Fortunately, I stumbled across the JBL M-Patch Active-1. For about the same price as the Makie Big Knob passive, I got an active controller that does cut and gain, has four inputs and two monitor outputs. It has a stereo pair USB I/O which is all I need, and enables me to hear my computer audio on my monitors. It has two independent headphone amplifier, plus talk back into the headphones. One thing that I found really useful is that input A is RCA jacks so I can use that for my drum machine, making it very easy to do drum programming tasks without having to run it through a console. Inputs B & C cover my two consoles. Input D is the USB. To be honest, this JBL unit it has exceeded my expectations and I can't believe how convenient it's made my life.
Interesting - as always! I've been using a Presonus Central Station for years - I've recently suspected there's something awry with it. BTW I am a recovered electronics engineer (sound only now!) , I found that the trim pots (which don't belong in pro equipment IMO) were affecting the volume of other channels, which shouldn't happen... for example. Anyway, after chatting with a friend I decided to take it out of my system. I use 2 sets of speakers. I use Studio One - it has a listen bus; I can use that to control the level and change the outputs, so it covers the basic requirements for a monitor controller, I added DIM and MONO and a VU meter to the channel strip, I was shocked, and pleased, how better my sound was and how tight my stereo image had become. It's now digital at the way from the (Focusrite) D to A to the speakers. It's not a perfect solution, like the bass bin has become a problem, although I don't use it much, stuff like that. I like Presonus gear and software and have to point out that my Central station is old and, probably, overused.
Congratulations for making an interesting cool show out of a volume knob ! I had one, it is from SPL ! SPL is a great company and very underrated I think !
Excellent video, thanks. I wish I had viewed this video before I purchased the Mackie controller! With my gear, the Mackie is not only attenuating the output signal from my interface to my speakers but is also noticeably degrading the overall sound quality.
I have two of these; in a commercial and home studio. The "cheap" price isn't cheap enough when the potentiometers break down after about 12 months. I'm here because I'm looking for a replacement.
Update 2023: I'm done with non-VCA controllers. My JBL M-patch and Mackie Studio wore out. I'm using the Behringer Studio XL and the stereo field stays consistent throughout the throw of the volume control. I verified the drift with white noise/cancellation testing with all the other units. The Behringer is absolutely silent. My mixes reflect a solid L/R balance as a result. Personally I am sensitive to balance to the degree of less than 1/3 dB (tested). None of the other monitor controllers are worth the money.
Excellent points! Don't most interfaces have volume control? Mine does (Scarlett 2i2) and it works well. Best place would be VCAs right at the output of the DAC. The Scarlett's is probably not there--good VCAs aren't cheap. I would lean toward having VCAs controlled by a single pot. VCA IC technology was pretty good in the 90s and has improved since then. Otherwise have a multiple stack of $30 pots on a single shaft and go passive. Switched resistors have their own set of problems; relay contacts get dirty and wear out; as do switch contacts--especially if signal is present during switching. Solid state relays introduce distortion. Etc. You do get what you pay for. Bottom line, your little box will probably last long enough to pay for itself and a new one, when that becomes necessary. Good video!
VCA with high dynamic range can be tricky to implement on ICs. CMOS switching can cause distortion and are impedance sensitive. 16bit for a high end ossilloscope may not be that tricky but 20bit+ become more of a challenge. The are ICs that do it in the limited audio bandwidth though such as PGA2320. I'm not sure if they use some kind of hybrid sillicon. www.ti.com/product/PGA2320/technicaldocuments
@@Audio_Simon I built a replacement for a DBX VCA back in early 90s. Console was a MCI JH600 series. I used an Analog Devices VCA chip that predated the SSM2018 (which is all I can find now in their obsolete products). The thing that blew my mind was how much I had to reduce the gain of my circuit in order to match the other faders. The thing preformed beautifully--you could not detect a difference. If anything, it was cleaner than the DBX faders. I have not tried TI's units. If I was to use anything now it would be THAT' 2181A as my first choice.
I just want to throw it out there than even if there is a small variance in the stereo field, the benefits of having a dedicated analog pot to control output volume really outweigh any minute signal degredation like this. IMO There is a huge value in having easy/ergonomic access to set the volume in your studio in a *repeatable* way. (ie. having a knob where you know that certain positions on the knob correspond to specific SPL levels in your listening position.) So if anyone is worried about not spending enough money to get a resistor-relay based monitor control... don't worry! Just get the one you can afford because any volume control is better than none. The 120$ little volume knob I bought years ago was one of the best investments i made in my studio space after monitors and soundcard.
Hallo from Utrecht Wytse! I'm at the point to need a volume knob, but also a headphone out. What do you suggest for such case? I'm now using a soundcraft K1 as monitor controller/preamp, but I want to move it next to the drums, hence I need a monitor controller!
I have the same Mackie Passive Monitor Controller but there was a hum/buzz when switching between my Yamaha HS5 to Avantone Mixcube (powered). So I assume there's some current/loop? I spent days trying to figure it out troubleshooting everything but it was still there, the hum bouncing over to the "silent" speaker when switched. I bought a Furman Power Conditioner and plugged everything into it but no difference. Finally, I was due for a new interface so got one that had a desktop/monitor controller built in. It's active so I guess that took care of the problem, but it still makes me wonder what the issue was with the Mackie.
I'm using a MOTU stage b-16. I didn't want to use any kind of analog volume controller so I used the Lemur app on an old old ipad and control the motu avb mixer directly over OSC. no more scratchyness, no more right vs. left level inconsistencies. the hard part was getting lemur to do the linear->log value conversion :P
Just wondering if 1 dB difference between left/right is really noticeable. How much difference do you get when you sit a bit off center between your monitors?
I actually think it matters quite a bit. Because you could feel the sound shifting a little bit towards the side that has the +1dB so your stereo image would be slightly shifted towards that side. But this is just my opinion :)
More problems occur in your perception of mono/mid information. Imagine you have speakers that can present mono/mid 99% accurately. In other words, what is in center stays in center, there are no drifts. Swiss company PSI have those speakers. Now imagine you hook that thing. 😁
Thanks for the nice demonstration. I wanted to get this 2X2 passive monitor controller. I have a question, Can I connect a pair of monitors and a subwoofer in 'A' output and a pair of monitors in 'B' output? Output 'A' = mon out- sub in- sub out -speakers in. Output 'B' = mon out- speakers in Please guide me regarding this method I have Adam audio t5v monitors and Adam audio T10S subwoofer
Can I use this between my amplifier and my passive monitors? if not, is there a kind of big knob device that can attach to my amplifier directly? thing is my amp doesn't have a volume knob... just 2 buttons - and + which is annoying!
I just use a mixer I've had lying around for years to control monitors, provide a phone input for music listening, etc. I wonder how much the deviation in the stereo image you showed really affects the sound in the room. I know, depends on speakers, depends on room, depends on ears. I would not agonize over the "tone" of buffers. It's pretty easy to design a transparent buffer. Keep in mind, there's no perfect room, and all the monitor controller affects is the room sound. Your ears already have to compensate for room imperfections. Good point about pot wear though. That could become an issue in the long term.
isn't then more accurate to just use some midi controller to handle software output volume? I'm using old Faderport (with help of BOME MIDI) to control output volume of RME HDSPe AIO and it works well
With this methode you actually lower your but depth because if you do it like this all the lowerd volume or "unused volume" is also using your bit depth don't know if it's clear what i said, i see i have to work on my english expression....
Fascinating behind the circuits info! The Big Knob is a great switcher. However, ours only lasted a couple years before dimming the left side gain. Would recommend it for $50, but it will need replaced within a couple years.
I have the original big knob. its a 4 x 3 . lots of ins and outs. Its pretty much indispensable. Only b/c I work with many speaker sets , and multiple input mixers. My big knob is one hole away from being completely stuffed.. jk .. but 4 real .. I ended up taking the power supply out of it and racking it. For 2 reasons. One is that it was humming way too close to signals and buggin the crap out of me(yea i can hear that shit), and two; the supply gets hot and changes things in the mixer. Things=noise floor. Crosstalk. crackly buttons etc ... Ever since then its been a perfect unit. When you take it apart you will find just how fkin close they put the PS next to the signal boards and opamps ,, its crazy how they jammed all that in there.... In my studio I pretty much take all the 60hz old skool regulated supplyz and put them in metal boxes so they don't get noise in any wires or cables. just run the clean DC wires in their own loom . Not having to worry about 'don't put that wire there' makes sessions a lot more fun
Would the Heritage Audio Baby Ram have these issues as well? The knob clicks, but I'm not sure whether or not that is just a design thing to match the feel of higher end ones. I had a JBL MSC-1 for years and now it won't turn on, so looking for something to replace it.
Hello there nice job as always! I wanted to be able to A/B/C my main outs into 3 different speaker sets.I couldnt care less about a trimmer for the reasons you mention as i have really good D/A but i couldnt find any on the market so i had to DiY one that takes 2 (stereo) balanced lines and splits them in 6 (3xStereo) balanced outs.job done(not as easy as it sounds).Idk why there isnt anything like this for sale anywhere. Am i missing something?Is there a reason to always have a pot in line?
Thanks for you good video I do enjoy watching your channel :) What I did is made my own buffer / impedence controller which consisted of 10 outputs with knobs basically cost around 80euros but was high end circuits which you would of paid around 2.5k euros for. No need to spend that stupid amount and ran it through a passive box. What you are spending a lot of money on is the box and assembly etc the refinement for want of a better word, but this is not necessary. For an extra 30eu I have fixed in a metal box housed with silicon = job done :) Inputs from source and monitors went directly to buffer control and buffer control mirrored to passive box.
I bought this so I could connect my mix cube. I like the functionality, and indeed if you upgrade ur speakers and interface etc this might be last thing you need to invest in...
Mismatching impedances can be a real struggle with those cheap ones. I've used a Big Knob Passive with my old cheap ass ESI nEar speakers, worked perfectly fine. Upgraded to a newer pair of cheap ass Kali LP6 and I was getting massive distortion when attenuating the signal. So everyone thinking to get such a passive one, try it beforehand, to see if it works with your speakers!
Good informative video. I've owned 3 different price point monitor controllers. My first was a JBL with room correcting software too, was ok, not great though. Could hear the difference after setting it up. Next was a Dangerous Music Monitor with the fancy remote, very nice, relay, great clear sound, expensive. My current one which sounds great and was affordable is a Presonus Monitor Station V2. I would recommend it to anyone, and it's low mid level I would say.
I've been using the tc electronic BMC-2, what a sweet piece of gear, too. The D/A is really transparent, the 'jet clock' works like a charm and not to mention MS monitoring, calib features, alt and multiple digital inputs. A 'little gem' as I read in a review. In time, loved the time I worked with the Dangerous, too.
Since when do you use the volume on a monitor controller all the time anyway? It’s primary use is for switching monitors. Once you’ve set up the volume you’re good to go.
Thank you! After watching, I know you referenced the different "classes" of monitor controllers and potentiometers. Are all the $0-200 passive controllers internally the same and going to have the same problems? I ask because there's the Big Knob and then there's the RCF MC-1. $100 price difference.
Just fyi, I manage the studios at a university. This big knob has been in one of the studio for years now and we have no issues with it so far. And this is in a university setting where the gear sees a lot of abuse of the kids
I have an interface with one set of outputs, so I need a controller of some kind in order to add a second set of monitors. Was thinking Passive because of the price, now...not quite so sure. Thank you for the detailed info.
There is another simple-ish solution. A servo controlled, active buffered potentiometer. It sound complex but basically you have a motor controlled volume knob, like so many 90's amps, then a microcontroller 'seeks' a specific resistance, rather than just going to a certain position. If the left and right potentiometer are different it doesn't matter, one could be 100k one 50k - the servo will seek until they match, at any level setting. My Cyrus 'Pre' works this way and at 22 years old it stil works with original potentiometers. No crackles because they have been enclosed their whole life. (Just as well, Alps don't make them anymore!)
This whole thing seem silly. My daw has a volume slider that works well for me. Besides, like he said, room treatment followed by better monitors followed by better converters is a better place to put your money for almost everyone who watches this.
What do you think about Beringer's control2 usb monitor controller? They claim its a VCA design, so no crackling is possible. Its also a talkback box and probably a "streamer". It serves same fuctions as middle class big knob. Before I've used old dj mixer as monitor controller - BIG mistake. It had balance and phase issues. I couldn't believe I had such crisp sound after I took it out of the system.
Really cool info brother thanks, I just got a Audient Nero and did not know much about this, seems quite nice though still monitor controllers are a new thing to me! :)
I almost went for the Avocet once, or the Dangerous Monitor... but anytime I considered it, reality kicked in. I have the original Big Knob from when they first came out, and back then anyway, they were made fine, and I really don't hear a difference directly out from my interface which has analog attenuator (Lynx) vs. the Big Knob. I also use JBL M-Patch for a more compact active controller... makes some pops when clicking some of the buttons but overall, seems fine. (also has USB input, although I've gotten noise on that so I don't use it, but handy in a pinch) Maybe if I mixed and mastered all day for a living, sure, I'd want the stepped control and to REALLY know I am at the same dB potential at each step on the dial. :) Totally agree with you BTW that the "active is sacrilege" is ridiculous. It's like saying, you don't need hydraulic brakes for your car - just use an anchor that you drop through the floor when you need to stop. Or the emergency brake. ;-0
I own one of these, honestly never noticed any coloration, since passive, or level issues like you pointed out. Would a passive monitor controller like this only cause the up to 1db difference in volume from L to R, or does this cause phase issues too? 1db isn't great, but fairly minor in the real world over that spectrum in imperfect rooms, but phase issues can be devastating for mixing and mastering.
very good content, between Big Knob passive from mackie and big knob studio plus that is the same, do you think that worth it the difrence of price, or they have the same performance and I will only notice difrence in quality sound if i buy an expensive controller?
Just an idea: couldn’t this monitor controller be done digitally through the DAW/audio interface and only have the Pot as an control input for that system? The pot value would just be read by an ADC and the DAW would interpret that as a controller input. I know it’s not analog anymore but a computer could make this easy.
No way I ever trust any fly-by-wire system for volume control (i.e., a remote control for digital volume in software or in interface, or even in the speakers the way some do it like Genelec). Always the chance of distortion/feedback/system meltdown at full monitor volume (110+ dB). Maybe if you add attenuators in the lines going to the monitors, but really, do you want to be dependent on the software to control volume? Maybe so, if you never have ANY need of using any outboard inputs. I don't even trust the Babyface Pro since it's also a digital volume control (although since it's all built-in, I trust it a bit more than controlling the volume elsewhere remotely).
Yes it can be done. Provided the DAC system has a good enough dynamic range (say -120dB signal to noise) and bit depth feeding it is 24bit or 32bit it's a great solution. Most DAC chips output about 2v RMS full scale which means the analog stage can be unity gain (gain of 1) and this is the lowest noise an analog amp will ever achieve.. So it's a really good solution. But you need to be sure ther volume attenuation is being done at a high bit-depth and stays that way to the DAC. FYI most analog volume controls struggle to beat -90dB signal to noise.
I can see the SONARWORKS REFERENCE BOX. Can you please make one update video on this ? Provided if you are using it in a day to day basis for your work. I really want to know your opinion after using it for a long period of time. Please :)
In such a simple monitor controller, the potentiometer can be easily replaced with a better one when it wears out. Sometimes simple is better. Thanks for this review. I've read some reviews from people claiming it filters your top end but seriously if you, and I consider you an audio freak, and I mean that positively, could not make it go filtery, then it should be good. I'm gonna get this one.
This was the missing info that I needed now - to know that I need a 3-4 thousand € knob to control my monitors' volume. I was happy choosing that very same Mackie Big Knob and I wanted to see a few videos about it before buying. Now ... . At least I found out why my monitors didn't started reproduce sound at the same time while turning up the volume knob on my previous Focusrite Scarlett 2i2b 3rd gen. Thanks for the info, but I hate you :))) I believe I heard something about digitally controlling volume knobs (which have a perfect balance between the L & R channels). Are those part of the 3rd category (the super expensive ones), or there is yet another category? Without those "knobs" being separate sound interfaces on their own (with ADCs and DACs inside), I do not see how they could digitally control the volume. I believe the Mackie Big Knob will do the job and there is no need for something expensive. It is good to know that the little difference in panning comes from that potentiometer and not from faulty DACs. A little knob twisting at the back of one of the monitors wouldn't harm and would remember us that life is "analog" :))) (referring to its imperfections).
Did not get one cuz the comments on thomann on changing the sound, dont want that then you get expensive speakers... so I got an AUDIENT soundcard with the volume knob on top ! Perfect ! But now 2 years later i find myself using the software for the card onscreen ( have it up on all times om my top screen ) to change volume, dont even have to let go of the mouse. even more Perfect !
I just want a monitor controller to adjust the volume and a button to mute the speakers when I want to use my headphones without the controller affecting the sound quality. Any recommendations?
I like these videos! Even in expensive consoles there can be a drift between left and right. If I run our Harrison console on reaaaally low volume I hear more of one side than the other. I've experienced the same thing in other studios too where the master monitor is a knob instead of a fader.
I wish I could have seen this video before buying Big Knob Passive. For me the biggest problem is that there is a signal loss of around 6db. Even with the knob fully turned up my unit loses 6db. What about this unit? Heritage Audio Baby RAM
Good potentiometers these days use conductive plastic versus carbon for the resistive element. Sure they are more expensive, but well within the price you paid for that box - at least I hope the control you have uses conductive plastic potentiometers. You are correct with regards to ganging these devices - even conductive plastic will have variations between potentiometers in a gang. Usually devices of this type try not to use reactive components (capacitors or inductors) due to phase variations across the audio spectrum, but instead use some kind of resistive pad network. Sure these pad networks are not perfect, but electronic engineering is a game of compromise wherein the shift in resistance throughout the range of the control knob will have negligible impact on the signal levels - in fact it can be designed as part of the gain reduction of the control. Good discussion, thanks for the video :-)
@ListenAndLearned If I'm catching your drift correctly I doubt that conductive plastic potentiometers can handle the power to be used directly connected to speakers for a volume control. They sell 1 to 2 watt varieties that run around 6-10 USD, but the highest I've ever seen is 7 W and they are in the 100's USD. Most passive speaker volume controls that I am aware of use wire wound potentiometers because they can dissipate the power.
I mean, I love the Big Knob Studio plus, but they keep breaking. My home one has broken once and my friends has broken two times. But they are very good. They do have a strange thing though. When at minimal volume it is true it has a difference in volume between the stereo.
I had the Big Knob Studio+, at lower volumes the headphones jack had serious left/right balance issues, much more than just one dB difference. Also grounding issues when USB was connected. Not impressed at all.
I mean.. my interface has nice knobs on the front for monitors, headphones, etc.. they can be assigned a little also. Definitely recommend the focusrite 18i20 3rd gen. I only would not buy it if I knew I needed more than 18 inputs over time. It can expand to 18 but not more unfortunately.
The Big Knob looks good. I went with a "Douk Audio Fully Balanced Passive Preamp Pre-Amplifier XLR/RCA Volume Controller" from eBay that cost roughly $30 that I'm just using as an extra master volume for my DJ mixer. It has been OK, but when you turn it to zero, one speaker will get sound before the other, so I'm not sure the balance is correct.
Okay a funny story. I was once hired to set up a digital room correction system for a person who reported the balance was always to one side. After getting the system channel matched across the whole frequency range I was later informed he was unhappy. I had not met the customer in person before this, just bought in to do the job. I sat next to him and explained how I had matched the channels from the listening position. After that he said "I'm sorry can you speak to my other side, I'm slightly deaf in this ear." :O
True story! We all sometimes dont accept reality!
Same story with me - my right ear has hearing loss (heartbreaking) it's something that must be considered in the studio :( OH WELL! such is life
Sometimes i sit and notice a difference in pan and ithen, i have a test: i move my fingers near my ear.
Sometimes the auditive channel need some cleaning, this is a task easily accomplished with a BIC pen cap...
😂😂😂
This is what I like and need. Audio geeks talking geeky audio tech stuff that nobody wants to explore in depth. Make more videos about electronics, I think there are many people who likes this stuff.
Audio and electronics are inextricably linked. The danger is you get branded a 'naysayer' who ot believes what measurements can back up. ;)
Yes!
one of the best videos you've made. understanding electrical engineering and what the components are doing to your signal is important IMO. thanks for the lesson. Cheers from LA
Yes, OK. But I'll never buy any piece of gear from him. 6:04 6:39 6:51 7:53 8:25 0:17 1:37 3:15
Just an engineer's plug here. These days we have powerful, buffered line outputs in audio interfaces, coupled with active studio monitors that have input amplification (and these days we get megaohms of input impedance in $1 opamps), meaning there's virtually no possibility you'll have problems due to impedance. DC blocking capacitors have to be in line with the signal, not put across input and ground like you have shown. A resistor and capacitor in series (which is what actually ends up happening) does not change the frequency response. Also, tbqh for better (and more consistent) stereo imaging I'd go for hooking up the pot to V+, having it supply a DC offset voltage that controls a stereo VCA that actually processes the signal. Lots of quality off-the-shelf VCA chips with way better parameters than a potentiometer.
Been using the Mackie Passive Big Knob for well over a year with no complaints. Honestly, at the price if it dies I’ll probably just get another one. Recommended. 👍
Same here I’m happy and satisfied with my mackie big knob passive😊
Can you guys tell me where I have to put the monitor controller in between? My set up is connected from 1. laptop to 2. Audio interface to 3. krk subwoofer with Exchange to 4. adam A7x to use the foot Pedal for muting the sub. Do I have to put it between the audio Interface and the sub connection?
I knew I wasn’t crazy when i hear more out of right channel than left
SORRY WHAT DID YOU SAY?!
@@Audio_Simon You could only read this out of your left channel?
Same with me.
@@Audio_Simon COULD YOU TYPE A BIT HARDER PLEASE?
Bro did u eventually upgraded?
I have one of these - and I like it a lot. Had many passive volume controllers and this build and functionality feels quality to be honest!
I've got the same Mackie Big Knob. Great device, allows me to A/B the DAW interface output between small 5" reference monitors, and 8" inch monitors with a sub.
Does it affect on sound quality? For example I have a very good audio interface and I'm afraid that this will afeect that sount quality) Thanks!
@@Gualaguala659 I haven't noticed anything. I'm using a MOTU 828 as my interface, with 2 different reference monitors. Neither of the monitors is extreme high-end, but I don't notice any sound degradation being caused by the Mackie.
Been using SPL MTC for about 10 years.. love it
I've had my Palmer Monicon for years and it works really great !
Damnnn I have this Big Knob Passive and I had to turn the volume of my right speaker up by alot to match them... Thanks for the in depth explanation
I have the Big Knob and I am very satisfied with it, works great in my setup :)
Creating a sub buss in your DAW to output to alternate monitors works too. Sounds great as well.
This video was so geeky I loved it. This is valuable content 🤘🏼
Really great Video! I picked one of these up so I can A/B speaker sets coming from my symphony desktop, I planned to leave the max so I didn't think I would have any issue with L R difference . I don't hear any coloration in sound and think it does a great job for the price, but I noticed it introduced high frequency noise in my speakers. I opened it up to see the cheap circuitry and It got really annoying so I returned it and got the Heritage Audio Baby RAM. More then double the price but not worth putting the big knob it in the chain when I spent so much on Focal twins and mogami studio cables.
will the baby RAM do 2 sets of speakers and a sub?
Waar zet je die big knob nou? Tussen je output en je speaker?? Hij gaat toch tussen je master out en je eindversterker? Tenminste dat zoek ik😁
You are very accurate on the projected life of passive monitor switches. My first SM pro M patch 2 lasted 2 years and then became scratchy on the volume knob. When I used electronics cleaner to fix it. The stereo balance was slightly off. I replaced it with a Mackie passive Big Knob and hopefully I will get another two years of service. I might just build a 50 position 2 channel variable resistor board when the Mackie is end of life.
I have an RME 800 sound card that is my monitor controller. Main outs 1&2 go directly to the inputs of my main amp (Crown DC150 with inputs at wide open) and I control my monitoring levels via the RME interface software. It has 8 places to store your levels setup and I generally use 3, one for low level listening, one for mid level and one for loud monitoring all set precisely in steps of 6dB. This helps with getting consistent levels mix to mix. Even a slight difference in monitoring of as much as 1dB can make a significant difference to your perceived brightness or dullness of a track as with the low end. I recommend this if your sound card interface software can do it. Most importantly!!, my RME main out 7&8 go to my VU meters as well (1k@-12FS = 0VU)
Great video. I use a Behringer control 2 (active/middle class) to control two pairs of speakers. It does its job and it's built like a tank!
I got a behringer control 2 too. Wanted to upgrade it since I’ve had it 3yrs. Looking at this, I became intrigued. Everything mentioned in this video is exactly what I needed to hear.
Great share on RUclips! Waiting for this video time ago. Thank you Wytse!
I have exactly the same big knob model showed on video. IMHO The sound is clear than like use a direct connection. Your point of view is correct about the interation betwhen the capacitor and resistor chain, but on my experience on work the mackie big knob dosen't change the sound. Cheers from Brazil
Very balanced explanation! I have panned toward the passive one.. central station from presonus.
I considered monitor controllers from Mackie, Behringer, and Presonus. Honestly, I was not very impressed because I thought they were overly expensive for what they did. It was difficult for me to find only what I needed, without extra features that in my opinion didn't really belong in a monitor controller. Fortunately, I stumbled across the JBL M-Patch Active-1. For about the same price as the Makie Big Knob passive, I got an active controller that does cut and gain, has four inputs and two monitor outputs. It has a stereo pair USB I/O which is all I need, and enables me to hear my computer audio on my monitors. It has two independent headphone amplifier, plus talk back into the headphones. One thing that I found really useful is that input A is RCA jacks so I can use that for my drum machine, making it very easy to do drum programming tasks without having to run it through a console. Inputs B & C cover my two consoles. Input D is the USB. To be honest, this JBL unit it has exceeded my expectations and I can't believe how convenient it's made my life.
This product is extremely handy to switch between two monitor pairs (on the fly ) ! Great while mixing and mastering.
Nicholas Noah I’m wondering if there’s an A/B switch without the volume knob
SO DOES IT COLOUR THE SOUND OR NOT?? I have a pair of Genelec 8030 and was thinking getting one of those..
Right?
Interesting - as always! I've been using a Presonus Central Station for years - I've recently suspected there's something awry with it. BTW I am a recovered electronics engineer (sound only now!) , I found that the trim pots (which don't belong in pro equipment IMO) were affecting the volume of other channels, which shouldn't happen... for example.
Anyway, after chatting with a friend I decided to take it out of my system. I use 2 sets of speakers. I use Studio One - it has a listen bus; I can use that to control the level and change the outputs, so it covers the basic requirements for a monitor controller, I added DIM and MONO and a VU meter to the channel strip,
I was shocked, and pleased, how better my sound was and how tight my stereo image had become. It's now digital at the way from the (Focusrite) D to A to the speakers.
It's not a perfect solution, like the bass bin has become a problem, although I don't use it much, stuff like that.
I like Presonus gear and software and have to point out that my Central station is old and, probably, overused.
Congratulations for making an interesting cool show out of a volume knob !
I had one, it is from SPL !
SPL is a great company and very underrated I think !
Excellent video, thanks.
I wish I had viewed this video before I purchased the Mackie controller!
With my gear, the Mackie is not only attenuating the output signal from my interface to my speakers but is also noticeably degrading the overall sound quality.
I have two of these; in a commercial and home studio. The "cheap" price isn't cheap enough when the potentiometers break down after about 12 months.
I'm here because I'm looking for a replacement.
I use the mackie big knob in my studio and now I know why I hear more from the right speaker than from the left speaker.
Ahhh I love this channel!
Update 2023: I'm done with non-VCA controllers. My JBL M-patch and Mackie Studio wore out. I'm using the Behringer Studio XL and the stereo field stays consistent throughout the throw of the volume control. I verified the drift with white noise/cancellation testing with all the other units. The Behringer is absolutely silent. My mixes reflect a solid L/R balance as a result. Personally I am sensitive to balance to the degree of less than 1/3 dB (tested). None of the other monitor controllers are worth the money.
Thank you, great explanation!!!!
You answered all the questions about monitor controllers that worried me. Thanks.
Excellent points! Don't most interfaces have volume control? Mine does (Scarlett 2i2) and it works well. Best place would be VCAs right at the output of the DAC. The Scarlett's is probably not there--good VCAs aren't cheap. I would lean toward having VCAs controlled by a single pot. VCA IC technology was pretty good in the 90s and has improved since then. Otherwise have a multiple stack of $30 pots on a single shaft and go passive. Switched resistors have their own set of problems; relay contacts get dirty and wear out; as do switch contacts--especially if signal is present during switching. Solid state relays introduce distortion. Etc. You do get what you pay for. Bottom line, your little box will probably last long enough to pay for itself and a new one, when that becomes necessary. Good video!
VCA with high dynamic range can be tricky to implement on ICs. CMOS switching can cause distortion and are impedance sensitive. 16bit for a high end ossilloscope may not be that tricky but 20bit+ become more of a challenge. The are ICs that do it in the limited audio bandwidth though such as PGA2320. I'm not sure if they use some kind of hybrid sillicon. www.ti.com/product/PGA2320/technicaldocuments
Just read the datasheet it uses something they call BiCMOS process.
@@Audio_Simon I built a replacement for a DBX VCA back in early 90s. Console was a MCI JH600 series. I used an Analog Devices VCA chip that predated the SSM2018 (which is all I can find now in their obsolete products). The thing that blew my mind was how much I had to reduce the gain of my circuit in order to match the other faders. The thing preformed beautifully--you could not detect a difference. If anything, it was cleaner than the DBX faders.
I have not tried TI's units. If I was to use anything now it would be THAT' 2181A as my first choice.
I just want to throw it out there than even if there is a small variance in the stereo field, the benefits of having a dedicated analog pot to control output volume really outweigh any minute signal degredation like this. IMO There is a huge value in having easy/ergonomic access to set the volume in your studio in a *repeatable* way. (ie. having a knob where you know that certain positions on the knob correspond to specific SPL levels in your listening position.) So if anyone is worried about not spending enough money to get a resistor-relay based monitor control... don't worry! Just get the one you can afford because any volume control is better than none. The 120$ little volume knob I bought years ago was one of the best investments i made in my studio space after monitors and soundcard.
Hallo from Utrecht Wytse! I'm at the point to need a volume knob, but also a headphone out. What do you suggest for such case? I'm now using a soundcraft K1 as monitor controller/preamp, but I want to move it next to the drums, hence I need a monitor controller!
I'm thinking of getting the ART SCC instead but this was the first one I considered
I have the same Mackie Passive Monitor Controller but there was a hum/buzz when switching between my Yamaha HS5 to Avantone Mixcube (powered). So I assume there's some current/loop? I spent days trying to figure it out troubleshooting everything but it was still there, the hum bouncing over to the "silent" speaker when switched. I bought a Furman Power Conditioner and plugged everything into it but no difference. Finally, I was due for a new interface so got one that had a desktop/monitor controller built in. It's active so I guess that took care of the problem, but it still makes me wonder what the issue was with the Mackie.
I'm using a MOTU stage b-16. I didn't want to use any kind of analog volume controller so I used the Lemur app on an old old ipad and control the motu avb mixer directly over OSC. no more scratchyness, no more right vs. left level inconsistencies. the hard part was getting lemur to do the linear->log value conversion :P
Just wondering if 1 dB difference between left/right is really noticeable. How much difference do you get when you sit a bit off center between your monitors?
1dB difference is noticeable. Check it for yourself www.audiocheck.net/blindtests_level.php?lvl=1
I actually think it matters quite a bit. Because you could feel the sound shifting a little bit towards the side that has the +1dB so your stereo image would be slightly shifted towards that side. But this is just my opinion :)
1 dB is noticeable. Monitors should be/are matched by 0.1dB if I remember.
@@lilDaveist Yeah, 1dB is a huge difference and is noticeable even if you do not have a reference.
More problems occur in your perception of mono/mid information. Imagine you have speakers that can present mono/mid 99% accurately. In other words, what is in center stays in center, there are no drifts. Swiss company PSI have those speakers. Now imagine you hook that thing. 😁
Thanks for the nice demonstration. I wanted to get this 2X2 passive monitor controller. I have a question,
Can I connect a pair of monitors and a subwoofer in 'A' output and a pair of monitors in 'B' output?
Output 'A' = mon out- sub in- sub out -speakers in.
Output 'B' = mon out- speakers in
Please guide me regarding this method
I have Adam audio t5v monitors and Adam audio T10S subwoofer
You got a new subscriber man...! Tysm ❤❤
some audio interfaces/converters have this sort of channel variance on their outputs and can reach a 1dB range
Do you have any idea of the quality and features of this Coleman audio products for monitor controlling ?
Can I use this between my amplifier and my passive monitors?
if not, is there a kind of big knob device that can attach to my amplifier directly? thing is my amp doesn't have a volume knob... just 2 buttons - and + which is annoying!
I use a passive attenuator made by a Polish company called Khozmo, 48 steps from Minus 60 db to 0 db the channel matching is to +/- 0.1 db.
What do you think about the Audiolinear Axis?
I just use a mixer I've had lying around for years to control monitors, provide a phone input for music listening, etc. I wonder how much the deviation in the stereo image you showed really affects the sound in the room. I know, depends on speakers, depends on room, depends on ears. I would not agonize over the "tone" of buffers. It's pretty easy to design a transparent buffer. Keep in mind, there's no perfect room, and all the monitor controller affects is the room sound. Your ears already have to compensate for room imperfections. Good point about pot wear though. That could become an issue in the long term.
isn't then more accurate to just use some midi controller to handle software output volume?
I'm using old Faderport (with help of BOME MIDI) to control output volume of RME HDSPe AIO and it works well
With this methode you actually lower your but depth because if you do it like this all the lowerd volume or "unused volume" is also using your bit depth
don't know if it's clear what i said, i see i have to work on my english expression....
Fascinating behind the circuits info! The Big Knob is a great switcher. However, ours only lasted a couple years before dimming the left side gain. Would recommend it for $50, but it will need replaced within a couple years.
I have the original big knob. its a 4 x 3 . lots of ins and outs. Its pretty much indispensable. Only b/c I work with many speaker sets , and multiple input mixers. My big knob is one hole away from being completely stuffed.. jk .. but 4 real .. I ended up taking the power supply out of it and racking it. For 2 reasons. One is that it was humming way too close to signals and buggin the crap out of me(yea i can hear that shit), and two; the supply gets hot and changes things in the mixer. Things=noise floor. Crosstalk. crackly buttons etc ... Ever since then its been a perfect unit. When you take it apart you will find just how fkin close they put the PS next to the signal boards and opamps ,, its crazy how they jammed all that in there.... In my studio I pretty much take all the 60hz old skool regulated supplyz and put them in metal boxes so they don't get noise in any wires or cables. just run the clean DC wires in their own loom . Not having to worry about 'don't put that wire there' makes sessions a lot more fun
Thanks for clearing this up for me. Good job.
Would the Heritage Audio Baby Ram have these issues as well? The knob clicks, but I'm not sure whether or not that is just a design thing to match the feel of higher end ones. I had a JBL MSC-1 for years and now it won't turn on, so looking for something to replace it.
Hello there nice job as always! I wanted to be able to A/B/C my main outs into 3 different speaker sets.I couldnt care less about a trimmer for the reasons you mention as i have really good D/A but i couldnt find any on the market so i had to DiY one that takes 2 (stereo) balanced lines and splits them in 6 (3xStereo) balanced outs.job done(not as easy as it sounds).Idk why there isnt anything like this for sale anywhere. Am i missing something?Is there a reason to always have a pot in line?
Thanks for you good video I do enjoy watching your channel :)
What I did is made my own buffer / impedence controller which consisted of 10 outputs with knobs basically cost around 80euros but was high end circuits which you would of paid around 2.5k euros for. No need to spend that stupid amount and ran it through a passive box. What you are spending a lot of money on is the box and assembly etc the refinement for want of a better word, but this is not necessary. For an extra 30eu I have fixed in a metal box housed with silicon = job done :)
Inputs from source and monitors went directly to buffer control and buffer control mirrored to passive box.
I have the Behringer Monitor 1 , really simple but for me it's an upgrade in my workflow. Once again as always a very good informative video! :-D
I bought this so I could connect my mix cube. I like the functionality, and indeed if you upgrade ur speakers and interface etc this might be last thing you need to invest in...
One of the best videos on youtube🙏🏼💯
Mismatching impedances can be a real struggle with those cheap ones. I've used a Big Knob Passive with my old cheap ass ESI nEar speakers, worked perfectly fine. Upgraded to a newer pair of cheap ass Kali LP6 and I was getting massive distortion when attenuating the signal. So everyone thinking to get such a passive one, try it beforehand, to see if it works with your speakers!
I have a Gracedesign m905. the one in the screen shot.. Its the best monitor controller i have listened thru.
so presonus central station (I think not in production anymore) has trim for each channel per each speaker. What about that?
Hi..
Does it matter how hot I go from my interface to the big.knob passive controler ?
what do you think about digital controlers like RME ARC USB (for RME stuff)
Good informative video. I've owned 3 different price point monitor controllers. My first was a JBL with room correcting software too, was ok, not great though. Could hear the difference after setting it up. Next was a Dangerous Music Monitor with the fancy remote, very nice, relay, great clear sound, expensive. My current one which sounds great and was affordable is a Presonus Monitor Station V2. I would recommend it to anyone, and it's low mid level I would say.
I've been using the tc electronic BMC-2, what a sweet piece of gear, too. The D/A is really transparent, the 'jet clock' works like a charm and not to mention MS monitoring, calib features, alt and multiple digital inputs. A 'little gem' as I read in a review.
In time, loved the time I worked with the Dangerous, too.
Since when do you use the volume on a monitor controller all the time anyway? It’s primary use is for switching monitors. Once you’ve set up the volume you’re good to go.
Really like to try Imperium from 2400 Audio or Nero from Audient. Presonus Central Station is a nice option too.
I use the big knob as a switch only and never use the volume knob. For that purpose its perfect.....
what do you think about the spl volume 2?
What about dynamics changing when lowering the volume digitally?
Thank you! After watching, I know you referenced the different "classes" of monitor controllers and potentiometers. Are all the $0-200 passive controllers internally the same and going to have the same problems? I ask because there's the Big Knob and then there's the RCF MC-1. $100 price difference.
Just fyi, I manage the studios at a university. This big knob has been in one of the studio for years now and we have no issues with it so far. And this is in a university setting where the gear sees a lot of abuse of the kids
I have an interface with one set of outputs, so I need a controller of some kind in order to add a second set of monitors. Was thinking Passive because of the price, now...not quite so sure. Thank you for the detailed info.
There is another simple-ish solution. A servo controlled, active buffered potentiometer. It sound complex but basically you have a motor controlled volume knob, like so many 90's amps, then a microcontroller 'seeks' a specific resistance, rather than just going to a certain position. If the left and right potentiometer are different it doesn't matter, one could be 100k one 50k - the servo will seek until they match, at any level setting. My Cyrus 'Pre' works this way and at 22 years old it stil works with original potentiometers. No crackles because they have been enclosed their whole life. (Just as well, Alps don't make them anymore!)
This whole thing seem silly. My daw has a volume slider that works well for me. Besides, like he said, room treatment followed by better monitors followed by better converters is a better place to put your money for almost everyone who watches this.
how about presonus monitor station v2 and the stereo shift thing you described?
Great video. You’ve helped me in my decision making more than any other gear review
What do you think about Beringer's control2 usb monitor controller? They claim its a VCA design, so no crackling is possible. Its also a talkback box and probably a "streamer". It serves same fuctions as middle class big knob.
Before I've used old dj mixer as monitor controller - BIG mistake. It had balance and phase issues. I couldn't believe I had such crisp sound after I took it out of the system.
Really cool info brother thanks, I just got a Audient Nero and did not know much about this, seems quite nice though still monitor controllers are a new thing to me! :)
I almost went for the Avocet once, or the Dangerous Monitor... but anytime I considered it, reality kicked in. I have the original Big Knob from when they first came out, and back then anyway, they were made fine, and I really don't hear a difference directly out from my interface which has analog attenuator (Lynx) vs. the Big Knob. I also use JBL M-Patch for a more compact active controller... makes some pops when clicking some of the buttons but overall, seems fine. (also has USB input, although I've gotten noise on that so I don't use it, but handy in a pinch) Maybe if I mixed and mastered all day for a living, sure, I'd want the stepped control and to REALLY know I am at the same dB potential at each step on the dial. :) Totally agree with you BTW that the "active is sacrilege" is ridiculous. It's like saying, you don't need hydraulic brakes for your car - just use an anchor that you drop through the floor when you need to stop. Or the emergency brake. ;-0
I went from Central Station to the Avocet, and there is more of a difference than just the left right balance, it's sounds way better overall
I use Rme, I'm thinking about the Arc controller to bypass all the external monitor controller "problem" and route everything through Totalmix
thats what i do works great !
I own one of these, honestly never noticed any coloration, since passive, or level issues like you pointed out. Would a passive monitor controller like this only cause the up to 1db difference in volume from L to R, or does this cause phase issues too? 1db isn't great, but fairly minor in the real world over that spectrum in imperfect rooms, but phase issues can be devastating for mixing and mastering.
very good content, between Big Knob passive from mackie and big knob studio plus that is the same, do you think that worth it the difrence of price, or they have the same performance and I will only notice difrence in quality sound if i buy an expensive controller?
Just an idea: couldn’t this monitor controller be done digitally through the DAW/audio interface and only have the Pot as an control input for that system? The pot value would just be read by an ADC and the DAW would interpret that as a controller input. I know it’s not analog anymore but a computer could make this easy.
No way I ever trust any fly-by-wire system for volume control (i.e., a remote control for digital volume in software or in interface, or even in the speakers the way some do it like Genelec). Always the chance of distortion/feedback/system meltdown at full monitor volume (110+ dB). Maybe if you add attenuators in the lines going to the monitors, but really, do you want to be dependent on the software to control volume? Maybe so, if you never have ANY need of using any outboard inputs. I don't even trust the Babyface Pro since it's also a digital volume control (although since it's all built-in, I trust it a bit more than controlling the volume elsewhere remotely).
Yes it can be done. Provided the DAC system has a good enough dynamic range (say -120dB signal to noise) and bit depth feeding it is 24bit or 32bit it's a great solution. Most DAC chips output about 2v RMS full scale which means the analog stage can be unity gain (gain of 1) and this is the lowest noise an analog amp will ever achieve.. So it's a really good solution. But you need to be sure ther volume attenuation is being done at a high bit-depth and stays that way to the DAC. FYI most analog volume controls struggle to beat -90dB signal to noise.
problem with doing it digitally is you're losing bits
Thanks man! Trying to find a video like this for days!!!
Interesting topic. I use Apogee Element interface/converter, the control is all digital, no physical volume path. I'd recommend it.
I can see the SONARWORKS REFERENCE BOX.
Can you please make one update video on this ? Provided if you are using it in a day to day basis for your work.
I really want to know your opinion after using it for a long period of time.
Please :)
In such a simple monitor controller, the potentiometer can be easily replaced with a better one when it wears out. Sometimes simple is better. Thanks for this review. I've read some reviews from people claiming it filters your top end but seriously if you, and I consider you an audio freak, and I mean that positively, could not make it go filtery, then it should be good. I'm gonna get this one.
This was the missing info that I needed now - to know that I need a 3-4 thousand € knob to control my monitors' volume.
I was happy choosing that very same Mackie Big Knob and I wanted to see a few videos about it before buying. Now ... .
At least I found out why my monitors didn't started reproduce sound at the same time while turning up the volume knob on my previous Focusrite Scarlett 2i2b 3rd gen. Thanks for the info, but I hate you :)))
I believe I heard something about digitally controlling volume knobs (which have a perfect balance between the L & R channels). Are those part of the 3rd category (the super expensive ones), or there is yet another category? Without those "knobs" being separate sound interfaces on their own (with ADCs and DACs inside), I do not see how they could digitally control the volume.
I believe the Mackie Big Knob will do the job and there is no need for something expensive. It is good to know that the little difference in panning comes from that potentiometer and not from faulty DACs. A little knob twisting at the back of one of the monitors wouldn't harm and would remember us that life is "analog" :))) (referring to its imperfections).
Hi, what about DA Converters that have built in Potentiometers like Komplete Audio Interfaces?
Did not get one cuz the comments on thomann on changing the sound, dont want that then you get expensive speakers... so I got an AUDIENT soundcard with the volume knob on top ! Perfect !
But now 2 years later i find myself using the software for the card onscreen ( have it up on all times om my top screen ) to change volume, dont even have to let go of the mouse. even more Perfect !
I just want a monitor controller to adjust the volume and a button to mute the speakers when I want to use my headphones without the controller affecting the sound quality.
Any recommendations?
i notice when i turn my volume knob at my focusrite scarlette interface very low then the right monitor gets quiter than the left one
+1, same goes for headphones potentiometer on my E-MU 1616m
this video is from 2019 and we are in 2022 now....IS IT BROKEN NOW? Because a lot of people saying it wont last more than a few months or a year....
I like these videos! Even in expensive consoles there can be a drift between left and right. If I run our Harrison console on reaaaally low volume I hear more of one side than the other. I've experienced the same thing in other studios too where the master monitor is a knob instead of a fader.
I wish I could have seen this video before buying Big Knob Passive. For me the biggest problem is that there is a signal loss of around 6db. Even with the knob fully turned up my unit loses 6db. What about this unit? Heritage Audio Baby RAM
Baby ram has .2 db insertion loss.
Good potentiometers these days use conductive plastic versus carbon for the resistive element. Sure they are more expensive, but well within the price you paid for that box - at least I hope the control you have uses conductive plastic potentiometers. You are correct with regards to ganging these devices - even conductive plastic will have variations between potentiometers in a gang. Usually devices of this type try not to use reactive components (capacitors or inductors) due to phase variations across the audio spectrum, but instead use some kind of resistive pad network. Sure these pad networks are not perfect, but electronic engineering is a game of compromise wherein the shift in resistance throughout the range of the control knob will have negligible impact on the signal levels - in fact it can be designed as part of the gain reduction of the control. Good discussion, thanks for the video :-)
@ListenAndLearned If I'm catching your drift correctly I doubt that conductive plastic potentiometers can handle the power to be used directly connected to speakers for a volume control. They sell 1 to 2 watt varieties that run around 6-10 USD, but the highest I've ever seen is 7 W and they are in the 100's USD. Most passive speaker volume controls that I am aware of use wire wound potentiometers because they can dissipate the power.
I mean, I love the Big Knob Studio plus, but they keep breaking. My home one has broken once and my friends has broken two times. But they are very good.
They do have a strange thing though. When at minimal volume it is true it has a difference in volume between the stereo.
I had the Big Knob Studio+, at lower volumes the headphones jack had serious left/right balance issues, much more than just one dB difference. Also grounding issues when USB was connected. Not impressed at all.
i use the MPC1000 Volume knob as monitor controllers. could that cause L/R problems too then i guess ?
So which do you suggest at the $1k and $2k budget?
I mean.. my interface has nice knobs on the front for monitors, headphones, etc.. they can be assigned a little also. Definitely recommend the focusrite 18i20 3rd gen. I only would not buy it if I knew I needed more than 18 inputs over time. It can expand to 18 but not more unfortunately.
The Big Knob looks good. I went with a "Douk Audio Fully Balanced Passive Preamp Pre-Amplifier XLR/RCA Volume Controller" from eBay that cost roughly $30 that I'm just using as an extra master volume for my DJ mixer. It has been OK, but when you turn it to zero, one speaker will get sound before the other, so I'm not sure the balance is correct.