I had an idea: 12:05 Since you are gluing your minis to the bases, you could print two wings for your dragon and attach them to its back at an angle. It'd look more 3d that way. You could do similar things to tails and tentacles. Cut them off and re-attach them at an angle.
I know I'm late but as a completely new dm trying to set up a campaign for a party of new players this is not only really damn cost efficient but they look great. Thanks for this because I wouldn't have thought of this on my own.
This isn't even a photoshop tutorial and yet I've learned more about how to use photoshop than any tutorial has taught me before, thanks! Also, this is going to be a huge boost for my game
Wow. As a wargamer for many moons, this has got to be the BEST card stock army I've come across. Great tutorial. Excellent work and final results are brilliant. Thanks so much for sharing
This is incredible! I run 3 dnd games and I’ve been getting into warhammer with some friends. This method will save me a ton of money as none of us really have the funds for a ton of minis. Thank you!
For anybody struggling to do the border with gimp, this is the easiest way I've found: 1. Get your mini properly scaled, transparent, colour adjusted, etc. 2. Copy and paste that layer so you've got an exact copy in the same position 3. Right click on that new layer and click "alpha to selection" to select everything that isn't transparent on that layer 4. While it is all selected, go to the Select menu at the top, click Grow, and grow selection by 10px 5. Click your fill tool, then hold shift and click inside your new selection to fill it all 6. Make sure your layers are in the right order so your original image is on top of your new solid background and merge them together
I'm stuck between steps 3 & 4. I've clicked "alpha to selection" but nothing happens and I don't see the word "grow" anywhere as an option. I've also tried simply scaling it 10% bigger and using the fill bucket but it just fills the whole rectangle rather than the orc.
@@Thomas-np3gi "Alpha to selection" should select everything on the layer that isn't transparent. Then you can either right click your image and go to "Select" in that dropdown, or through the Select menu at the top and hopefully Grow will be in there. Sorry, it did not cross my mind at the time that Select is pretty ambiguous there
Really needed this, I tried buying minis and I ended up having them stolen from me. Heartbroken from not only spending a lot of money on them but how someone would simply steal them from me.
I've watched many of your videos and I still think this one is the most useful. Time spent, minimal. Cost, low. Immersion at the table, more than adequate. Reusability, immense. I have a 3d printer and I still find myself doing this over printing many of the mobs for my games. Thank you.
I have zero experience with Photoshop. I watched this video about a dozen times and baby stepped through the process hand in hand with this video. It was fun, it worked great and it was an awesome intro for me to Photoshop, thanks!!
Alternatively, if you need to use facing rules on your game, you could desaturate one of the sides of the figure to represent its back side. OR... Instead of using illustrations, you could try and find photos of miniatures, both front and back. It's a bit hard to find high resolution ones, though. But I don't think it matters that much.
For the step about coloring The edge I'd recommend setting the paper miniature down and drawing around the white outline. I just got a few (literally thousands) minis done and saved me a bit of time
This tutorial is amazing. Great to see a well explained step by step all the way through the process. As a suggestion. I saw an awesome video somewhere that does it similarly. But instead of gluing them to bases you can use binder clips (with the silver bits removed) to hold them up. That way you can store the printouts in stacks or in clear plastic sleeves in a binder. Makes storage easier. Also for those people that have them. Pathfinder pawn stands work great for these as well, just glue the printouts onto chipboard instead of card stock. I keep the white halo around them though, so that they are easier to cut, and so that they match the other pathfinder pawns.
+Dustin Gonzales Forgot to mention. If you want to use the pathfinder stands... In the stage where you mirror the figure, instead of adding a 1 pixel line, add another bar, (the same thickness of your chipboard), that way you can fold it over the top in the same manner as the tutorial.
Excellent tutorial, this will really help me out a ton, especially the bit with photoshop and using high res images to make your own template. I had already been using foamcore as a base like you did, but I never thought about just gluing it to the washer. I think I should also mention that there are various companies that create printable sheets of minis that feature both front and back views of a creature, so you know which way it is facing. I happen to use a lot of the free stuff from Onemonk miniatures, as it IS free, though you have to rescale some of it before printing. I hope to see more videos from you in the future.
This guide was fantastic! I don't have photoshop but I downloaded GIMP for free, did the same thing but the shortcuts weren't valid. This is going to be a fantastic tool for me moving forward, thanks for making this.
You will need to google the equivalent shortcuts to the narration. Sorry, the answer to the question is basically another five minute video. On my list, but not high priority right now.
Hey Wyloch thanks again for this guide. I've now made about 25 of these, and I'm wondering... How do you move them around? They look great but don't stand up to be jostled around in a box, the glue seems to separate and then I have to re-glue them to the base. Do you put them in some kind of rack or frame?
Hmmm, no just toss em in a box, never had any issues with either base method. Ensure you act very quickly when using hot glue, as in two seconds from drawing the bead to attaching. Also see episodes 040 and 053 for more basing ideas.
00:00 "If you have ale, then you have a friend in Grog Strongjaw" Great video! Such a simple process. The only problem I have is that I'm so flat out for content prep that I'll never have the time to actually make minatures for my players. I'm currently planning on using Lego for that.
This video has served me well and also been a gate way drug into creating more things. I've used the knowledge you imparted in this video to design my own Pathfinder item cards from scratch front and back. I've printed them with this method and glued them to normal playing cards with great success. They are designed so vital details like name weight and value are at the top so you can stack them ontop each other and create an on the fly item list to quickly figure up your weight and the value of your inventory while being able to pick out the cards and read roles specific to the item
Totally works a charm! I found packs of 3/4" thick black plastic tap washers, 3 for 75p, topped with budgie sand and fish tank pebbles, makes awesome cheap figures! Thanks so much for the tutorial!
This is just brilliant! Fantastic video providing a cost saving idea, while the crafting side is a fun buy inn to share with the family as well. D&d / Basic Fantasy is approved in our house. Thank you!
As someone who does a lot of 2d digital work, this is an awesome way for me to really add a personal touch to the miniature aspect of table top gaming.
Late to the mini party, but still wanted to offer a belated thank you! Your video was very helpful (especially since our group is just starting out!) It will be fun to see something other than dice for enemies.
Not to seem like I'm just coming on here to harp, I actually enjoy your clear and concise tutorials, and have watched the majority of your videos, they are a very nice compliment to DM Scotty's stuff.
this is VERY professional. The same method can be applied to a much shoddier but equally effective outcome at 1/100 the time. You can even make blank ones to write on them whatever you need on the fly....
Such a neat idea, i am just now starting to DM alot of games and wanted to upgrade my player's experiance with mini's. This is 100% affortible for me and looks absolutely great.
Great stuff. Exactly what I've been doing but I don't glue my miniatures to bases since it makes storing them harder. I just use printable paper bases.
First of all, very nice Vid, thanks for that! A tip how i do the shadows (probably easier?) if you do not need to fill up more black afterwards: Right click on the layer of the figure -> Filling properties -> Contour -> Make it 10px wide an black -> finished. (Don't know if the menus are 100% correct, just translated it straight from my german version)
Thanks so much for sharing, I love the video, but I cant get the right size on paper, it keeps coming out very small. I'm doing something wrong, but don't know what. Any help? Thanks
Any luck? Is it weird printer settings? Like fitting to wide margins or something? I fixed some scale issues on our work printer by printing to PDF "at 100%" and then printing the pdf.
These look great! I've noticed that Paizo is selling Pathfinder printable paper minis, but they look so cartoony, so this is a much better way to do it! By the way, I'm not sure if it works this was in Photoshop (can't really afford Photoshop right now), but in Gimp you can just create a new layer with the defined sizes and filled with color in one step.
I had a small question if anyone can answer it. If you were to scale for something larger than a medium/small sized creature, what would the scaling be in photoshop/photo editing software and the washer/base scale
Found it! Had the same question. What I do is measuring 5 feet as 1 inch and dividing or multiplying as needed. The D&D 5e Monster Manual helps with the sizes and how many feet the encounters are. You just measure and make accordingly!
Wyloch, I really enjoyed your tutorial. The use of washers and the clear packing tape are awesome. I have enjoyed watching your videos, because you find creative ways to make things that you might have to pay an arm and a leg for else where. Plus nothing beats using something that you have created. I am right now working on building several 40k armies with a similar process, mainly because my brother and I play over Skype and sometimes the units that I would like to use I can't, because I have to use them to proxy what he is using.
I really like this. A few thing I do differently. To each his own: 1. Try uline polyester mailing labels. They are expensive (about 90 cents a sheet) but at 28mm scale, you can get a good 12-14 figures, about 1/3 cavalry and 2/3 infantry (most of my stuff is for wargames rather than rpgs) from a sheet, and the things are all but invulnerable, 2: I don't do permanent bases. I think it works out much better if I can store about 2500-3000 figures in a tackle box. The minus to this is that set up time takes longer. Anyway, I make my bases out of 1" square transparencies, the thicker stuff. You can get the sheets from FedEx Office by specifically requesting "report covers", rather than, "transparencies" which are flimsier. Then get a big bag of clear, transparent pony beads. If you have a teenage daughter, she'll know what these are. Use a decent clear plastic glue to stick two pony beads to the square base (but not to each other), flat sides down, touching side to side (again, NOT glued together), and you are done. To mount the miniatures, simply flex the base apart slightly, so a gap is formed between the two beads, set the figure inside, and place it flat on the table. The base will hold the figure in place nice ly, and you can remove them when not needed. As a moderately large scale miniatures gamer (I average around three hundred figures per battle) I can make a relatively small number of these and yet re-use them again and again. They also have the advantage that you need no flock. Being transparent, the base largely vanishes into the battlefiled, especially if you play on a battle mat. Good gaming.
very nice! I was trying to figure out how I could make matching paper pawns that'd match my pathfinder pawns. it's hard finding resources for near future settings
I do not attach a base. I buy binder clips and keep the paper minis unattached. That way it is easy to move and carry the minis without risking any damage. You just stakc them inside of a tubberware container and then put the binder clip on the bottom. In the end it is a lot cheaper, 92 cents gets you a dozen.
@@WylochsArmory I am more concerned with functionality, cost, time, and transportation. With of course cost being the driving factor. I was just suggesting that for people who have less funds available to do such than buy glue, hot glue gun, and the other miscellany you add to the printouts that end up costing about 80 to 85 cents a mini as opposed to the 13 cents for my suggestion. And that is not factoring in the extra cost one is going to incur in regards to transportation or the time cost incured by extra decoration on the base. Instead of just buying a dollar tupperware container to store the couple hundred paper minis and the clips, you have to spend a buck fifty or so for a larger container and about 25 bucks on foam to keep the minis safe and secured from getting cruched or moving.
So I just thought of this while looking around for things to use for D&D crafting, i was trying to figure out how I was going to make paper minis without a printer, then I turn and see my entire collection of Magic The Gathering cards. Boxes upon boxes of commons and uncommon worth literally pennies, I start going through and wuickly find quite a few that have full beautiful artwork of cool creatures, I just grab my exact blade, cut out the monster from the image, then cut a square from the remaining text box and glue it to that as a base! Its not all that flashy, but it works and all you need is a magic card with a nice image, glue, and a knife! So far they look really good other than the card back, but it will do in a pinch and you can spend like $10 to get 1,000+ throw away cards at a game store. Might be worth looking into :)
Hi there and thanks for sharing your passion with us. I couldn't match your skill and dedication but I would like to contribute with some details I personally like about paper minis. It is of course my opinion and not mandatory by any extend: First I think that a white background brightens up the figure, so the black line should be still be there for contrast purposes but very thin, over a white aura background. This suits better at least, or even if, you are portraying a full white figure such as Yeti or classic ghost. The base of figures should be always dark or directly black. Its work should not be to drag attention from the figure above it, keeping in mind exceptions such as the mentioned in-game item and such especial cases. Its shape round or elliptical and not too thick above "ground". Keeping a rectangular frame with somehow rounded superior corners around your figure instead of trimming around the figures' details make also excellent minis as long as all of them look similar. This makes the figure actually look better when you're not looking the figure directly in front of it. A paper figure melting too much with the rest of the diorama isn't actually a great achievement, since they are the story characters. Thank you.
When it started and he was drinking from that big glasses I half expected him to do an Archer and hold his finger up signaling us to wait while he drank some more. :)
Thank you so much! I know you made this a few years ago but this will be a great to make into set of stocking stuffers for my boys who are just getting into D&D!
Maybe it's that I'm tired today. Whatever the reason, I am 🤣 at "Poorhammer". Pretty sure GW won't be endorsing that one any time … ever. Love the tutorial on these!
Solid video. I'm surprised I haven't seen this content online before. Guess it's the tree in the forest (for me). Now I've got to learn how to use my computer and printer ?! The craft part is the easy part for me. LOL ! Really like the color coding and simple base construction. Thank you.
jesternario I am a paper crafter, and do a lot of detail cutting. Skip bulky scissors and just use a cheap pair of curved manicure scissors. Turn the image, not the scissors. Also- crease the top well before pulling the label off. If you don't have a bone folder, fold and use your fingernail for a sharp crease. If you do have one, also use it once the image is down on the CS to make it look prefect and also once the tape is down. HTH.
Ok I have started to make a few of these for our games .. I have made mostly elves and humand ()and a young dragon .. when you are making dwarves, halflings or goblins what size do you use for the guide ? obviously the smaller races will not be the size of humans .. or would you simply go with 60 - 75%
I just go with whatever feels right. I have a standard human fighter that I treat as my "standard". I copy it next to whatever I'm working on, and scale it appropriately relative to that standard human.
This was sooo cool! Im gonna buy photoshop and try it myself! Though, I think Im going to do mine with a white edge around them, I think the black edge makes the picture harder to see.
ninjabunny A white paint pen should do it. Also, buy cheap curved manicure scissors for the detail cutting. Turn the image, not your scissors. I would also get a bone folder with a half off coupon from retail me not at any major craft store to make sure everything is flush.
Quick question. How would you go about scaling it up? You showed, mostly, the medium height creature. How would you go about making a Large or gargantuan creature? Or smaller creatures?
+Happy's Nightcore Hello - the paint scheme is at 10:07. The gray is Slate Gray. The base sizes depend on the game you're playing. For D&D, Large would be 2 inches, Huge is 3 inches, etc. I believe colossal would be 6 inches.
I love this tutorial! Its perfect! 😁👌 However I might just have to draw my own characters because my friends prefer my designs for their characters. I will be printing the dragons and beasts though. 😁👍
I can't seem to get the white glue to adhere to the washers in order to flock it. The mini stuck well with the gluegun but trialing a hot glue coat to the base wasn't effective, it became too tall and lumpy. Would you have any tips?
sorry one more question do all the images (mainly humanoids) have to be face on? it's just some of the images I like that look more realistic and less cartoony but have an awkward diagonal pose where one leg is much further back than the Orc your showing is there a way for the awkward poses look better or should I just go with another image
Use Fuzzy Tool (aka Wand), select white space around figure, then Select -> Invert. Sad thing is, when you duplicate and expand the image for the outline step in GIMP, the program seems to offset it. The outline is not directly behind (expanded by 10 pixels) like in PS.
I do a lot of fine detail cutting, they make swivel exacto's, but honestly when cutting cardstock the best way to do tiny work like between the Orc's legs is a pair of curved manicure scissors. Can even be a $1 pair. Turn the cardstock not your scissors. Much more precise.
I don't know if I've missed it in the video, but I'm not sure if you mention the dimensions you use for the gauge and tab layers when printing out large or huge creatures? I'm trying to make some giants but I don't know what measurements to use, any help would be appreciated
Just paste the image next to a finished human fighter, and scale it until it "feels right." Huge creatures are not nearly as consistent...young dragon, ogre, gel cube, all of them very different heights. So I did not provide a gauge for Large (or other sizes) because there is no useful standard. I just scale it next to a standard human until it "feels right" to me. And obviously, the Tab for a Large creature would be 2".
So I live up in the mountains and we don't have craft stores or much card stock besides flashcard material, but I had an idea. Could you do a tutorialm on turning aluminum cans or foil into bases?
how do you store them? They look like they would take up a lot of space sadly. I liked the little details you added to make each one unique. I'm definitely going to use your printing method. Thankyou
I had an idea:
12:05 Since you are gluing your minis to the bases, you could print two wings for your dragon and attach them to its back at an angle. It'd look more 3d that way. You could do similar things to tails and tentacles. Cut them off and re-attach them at an angle.
Would give this 100 likes if I could.
+Wyloch's Crafting Vids It deserves a video, doesn't it?
+allluckyseven You know what....yep, added to the To-Do list.
+Wyloch's Crafting Vids Please do that video
+Wyloch's Crafting Vids Any update on this addition? I believe we are all eagerly awaiting this one
For the people looking for the measurements:
Gauge .25in wide 1.375in high
Tab 1in wide .125in high
Base Layer 8in wide 11in high
@Hazeofflames check out the description for that. As far as tabs, 2in should do the trick, but eyeballing it usually gets as good as a result.
This is the measurements for Human sized minis right?
@@manimprettyhorny7291 Based on what I saw in the video, since he used an Orc as the example, I'd say yea, human sized.
I know I'm late but as a completely new dm trying to set up a campaign for a party of new players this is not only really damn cost efficient but they look great. Thanks for this because I wouldn't have thought of this on my own.
This isn't even a photoshop tutorial and yet I've learned more about how to use photoshop than any tutorial has taught me before, thanks! Also, this is going to be a huge boost for my game
Low maintenance and quality design. Love it.
Wow. As a wargamer for many moons, this has got to be the BEST card stock army I've come across. Great tutorial. Excellent work and final results are brilliant. Thanks so much for sharing
This is incredible! I run 3 dnd games and I’ve been getting into warhammer with some friends. This method will save me a ton of money as none of us really have the funds for a ton of minis. Thank you!
For anybody struggling to do the border with gimp, this is the easiest way I've found:
1. Get your mini properly scaled, transparent, colour adjusted, etc.
2. Copy and paste that layer so you've got an exact copy in the same position
3. Right click on that new layer and click "alpha to selection" to select everything that isn't transparent on that layer
4. While it is all selected, go to the Select menu at the top, click Grow, and grow selection by 10px
5. Click your fill tool, then hold shift and click inside your new selection to fill it all
6. Make sure your layers are in the right order so your original image is on top of your new solid background and merge them together
I'm stuck between steps 3 & 4. I've clicked "alpha to selection" but nothing happens and I don't see the word "grow" anywhere as an option. I've also tried simply scaling it 10% bigger and using the fill bucket but it just fills the whole rectangle rather than the orc.
@@Thomas-np3gi "Alpha to selection" should select everything on the layer that isn't transparent. Then you can either right click your image and go to "Select" in that dropdown, or through the Select menu at the top and hopefully Grow will be in there. Sorry, it did not cross my mind at the time that Select is pretty ambiguous there
@@keanewa7847 Ahhhh thank you for the clarification, found it and it works!
Really needed this, I tried buying minis and I ended up having them stolen from me. Heartbroken from not only spending a lot of money on them but how someone would simply steal them from me.
Same. I'm starting DND cuz im bored, but i have got SO MANY stolen hotwheels. Can relate.
Nice. In Canada, washers are now cheaper than pennies so it is good to see that the hot glue bead method works.
I've watched many of your videos and I still think this one is the most useful. Time spent, minimal. Cost, low. Immersion at the table, more than adequate. Reusability, immense. I have a 3d printer and I still find myself doing this over printing many of the mobs for my games.
Thank you.
Awesome! I love the Idea of color coding the players too.
Dig it
I have zero experience with Photoshop. I watched this video about a dozen times and baby stepped through the process hand in hand with this video. It was fun, it worked great and it was an awesome intro for me to Photoshop, thanks!!
Good for you! Once you get in a rhythm it becomes second nature really quickly.
This. Is. GENIUS. Thanks for making this.
np
After all this time I still forgotten to like the video that helped me with so many of my campaigns, thank you
Still my favorite method I've seen. The dark outline makes the colors pop and look so professional.
Alternatively, if you need to use facing rules on your game, you could desaturate one of the sides of the figure to represent its back side.
OR... Instead of using illustrations, you could try and find photos of miniatures, both front and back. It's a bit hard to find high resolution ones, though. But I don't think it matters that much.
For the step about coloring The edge I'd recommend setting the paper miniature down and drawing around the white outline.
I just got a few (literally thousands) minis done and saved me a bit of time
Dude, this is awesome! Way more fun and affordable than buying minis. I was blown away by all of the ground decorations you made. Very well done! :D
This tutorial is amazing. Great to see a well explained step by step all the way through the process.
As a suggestion. I saw an awesome video somewhere that does it similarly. But instead of gluing them to bases you can use binder clips (with the silver bits removed) to hold them up. That way you can store the printouts in stacks or in clear plastic sleeves in a binder. Makes storage easier.
Also for those people that have them. Pathfinder pawn stands work great for these as well, just glue the printouts onto chipboard instead of card stock. I keep the white halo around them though, so that they are easier to cut, and so that they match the other pathfinder pawns.
Thanks!
+Dustin Gonzales Forgot to mention. If you want to use the pathfinder stands... In the stage where you mirror the figure, instead of adding a 1 pixel line, add another bar, (the same thickness of your chipboard), that way you can fold it over the top in the same manner as the tutorial.
Excellent tutorial, this will really help me out a ton, especially the bit with photoshop and using high res images to make your own template. I had already been using foamcore as a base like you did, but I never thought about just gluing it to the washer. I think I should also mention that there are various companies that create printable sheets of minis that feature both front and back views of a creature, so you know which way it is facing. I happen to use a lot of the free stuff from Onemonk miniatures, as it IS free, though you have to rescale some of it before printing. I hope to see more videos from you in the future.
This guide was fantastic! I don't have photoshop but I downloaded GIMP for free, did the same thing but the shortcuts weren't valid. This is going to be a fantastic tool for me moving forward, thanks for making this.
what is the process with gimp, i also have gimpshop.....not sure how to do it without being able to follow along
You will need to google the equivalent shortcuts to the narration. Sorry, the answer to the question is basically another five minute video. On my list, but not high priority right now.
Plz wyloch can you give me a template with already made paper minis
Hey Wyloch thanks again for this guide. I've now made about 25 of these, and I'm wondering... How do you move them around? They look great but don't stand up to be jostled around in a box, the glue seems to separate and then I have to re-glue them to the base. Do you put them in some kind of rack or frame?
Hmmm, no just toss em in a box, never had any issues with either base method. Ensure you act very quickly when using hot glue, as in two seconds from drawing the bead to attaching. Also see episodes 040 and 053 for more basing ideas.
00:00 "If you have ale, then you have a friend in Grog Strongjaw"
Great video! Such a simple process. The only problem I have is that I'm so flat out for content prep that I'll never have the time to actually make minatures for my players. I'm currently planning on using Lego for that.
I was wondering where I recognized the music from.
Wow. Good idea, well executed. Dude, you put so much effort into your games. Making us other DM's look bad.
This is one of the videos that got me started. I went crazy nuts with these. Have close to 200 with more to make. Love your videos Wyloch.
Thanks very much!
Any chance you still have the files? I'm trying to learn gimp while doing this and I'm incredibly clumsy...
This video has served me well and also been a gate way drug into creating more things. I've used the knowledge you imparted in this video to design my own Pathfinder item cards from scratch front and back. I've printed them with this method and glued them to normal playing cards with great success. They are designed so vital details like name weight and value are at the top so you can stack them ontop each other and create an on the fly item list to quickly figure up your weight and the value of your inventory while being able to pick out the cards and read roles specific to the item
Rockin!
Totally works a charm! I found packs of 3/4" thick black plastic tap washers, 3 for 75p, topped with budgie sand and fish tank pebbles, makes awesome cheap figures! Thanks so much for the tutorial!
+Thomas Boynton Thanks for watching!
This is just brilliant! Fantastic video providing a cost saving idea, while the crafting side is a fun buy inn to share with the family as well. D&d / Basic Fantasy is approved in our house. Thank you!
Thx!
As someone who does a lot of 2d digital work, this is an awesome way for me to really add a personal touch to the miniature aspect of table top gaming.
+Cyclops Dig it.
If someone has a link to a document with a whole bunch of card stock mini's that would be very helpful.
a bit late but look up printable heroes
There a bit small
i want em to
Late to the mini party, but still wanted to offer a belated thank you! Your video was very helpful (especially since our group is just starting out!) It will be fun to see something other than dice for enemies.
Rockin!
Cool, this is defiantly in my opinion the best way to make a mini
Not to seem like I'm just coming on here to harp, I actually enjoy your clear and concise tutorials, and have watched the majority of your videos, they are a very nice compliment to DM Scotty's stuff.
this is VERY professional. The same method can be applied to a much shoddier but equally effective outcome at 1/100 the time. You can even make blank ones to write on them whatever you need on the fly....
Such a neat idea, i am just now starting to DM alot of games and wanted to upgrade my player's experiance with mini's. This is 100% affortible for me and looks absolutely great.
Rockin
So very cool and concise! I need some wolves and other minis for which this perfect. Thanks for sharing!
You could also print them on Card stock and use wooden 1 inch squares or Circles. You can buy them in bulk on Amazon. Great tutorial by the way.
Excellent video. Adding decor/texturing/color to the base is a great idea.
Thx, be sure and watch my two follow ups (040 and 053 I think)
Great stuff. Exactly what I've been doing but I don't glue my miniatures to bases since it makes storing them harder. I just use printable paper bases.
what kind of bases do you use?
Ones you can print. Like these onemonk.com/bases
There are other styles and ways to base them but those work for me.
Binder clips work great for me
First of all, very nice Vid, thanks for that!
A tip how i do the shadows (probably easier?) if you do not need to fill up more black afterwards: Right click on the layer of the figure -> Filling properties -> Contour -> Make it 10px wide an black -> finished.
(Don't know if the menus are 100% correct, just translated it straight from my german version)
Heed this tip!
Thank you for this great tutorial! I'm glad you posted it sooner than episode 10 or 11 :)
Thanks so much for sharing, I love the video, but I cant get the right size on paper, it keeps coming out very small. I'm doing something wrong, but don't know what. Any help? Thanks
What application are you printing from? Word?
@@WylochsArmory hi, I'm using PhotoShop 2020
Any luck? Is it weird printer settings? Like fitting to wide margins or something?
I fixed some scale issues on our work printer by printing to PDF "at 100%" and then printing the pdf.
@@abmackay yes, I did that and now is fixed, thanks
I want to thank you so much for this tutorial Wylock, these minis came out awesome and save so much money! Much thanks!
Sure thing
These look great! I've noticed that Paizo is selling Pathfinder printable paper minis, but they look so cartoony, so this is a much better way to do it! By the way, I'm not sure if it works this was in Photoshop (can't really afford Photoshop right now), but in Gimp you can just create a new layer with the defined sizes and filled with color in one step.
Joseph Holliday how do you do that in gimp? I've just started using it and I'd like to know how
William Cox When you go to "add layer", the height, width, and fill type are in the dialogue box.
I had a small question if anyone can answer it. If you were to scale for something larger than a medium/small sized creature, what would the scaling be in photoshop/photo editing software and the washer/base scale
and if possible, what would make the best source of artwork for miniatures
Found it! Had the same question. What I do is measuring 5 feet as 1 inch and dividing or multiplying as needed. The D&D 5e Monster Manual helps with the sizes and how many feet the encounters are. You just measure and make accordingly!
Great video dude! I'm a budding DnD player and I'm definitely gonna make some of these for me and my group's first outing!
+Shane Byrne Glad to hear it!
Wyloch, I really enjoyed your tutorial. The use of washers and the clear packing tape are awesome. I have enjoyed watching your videos, because you find creative ways to make things that you might have to pay an arm and a leg for else where. Plus nothing beats using something that you have created. I am right now working on building several 40k armies with a similar process, mainly because my brother and I play over Skype and sometimes the units that I would like to use I can't, because I have to use them to proxy what he is using.
Thx!!
Looks brilliant, managed to follow the tutorial and get the same results with GIMP :) (off to print me off an orc troop)
@@teamdoubleR sorry buddy it's been 5 years since I did this I cannot remember what I did! Wish you best of luck.
I really like this. A few thing I do differently. To each his own:
1. Try uline polyester mailing labels. They are expensive (about 90 cents a sheet) but at 28mm scale, you can get a good 12-14 figures, about 1/3 cavalry and 2/3 infantry (most of my stuff is for wargames rather than rpgs) from a sheet, and the things are all but invulnerable,
2: I don't do permanent bases. I think it works out much better if I can store about 2500-3000 figures in a tackle box. The minus to this is that set up time takes longer. Anyway, I make my bases out of 1" square transparencies, the thicker stuff. You can get the sheets from FedEx Office by specifically requesting "report covers", rather than, "transparencies" which are flimsier. Then get a big bag of clear, transparent pony beads. If you have a teenage daughter, she'll know what these are. Use a decent clear plastic glue to stick two pony beads to the square base (but not to each other), flat sides down, touching side to side (again, NOT glued together), and you are done. To mount the miniatures, simply flex the base apart slightly, so a gap is formed between the two beads, set the figure inside, and place it flat on the table. The base will hold the figure in place nice ly, and you can remove them when not needed.
As a moderately large scale miniatures gamer (I average around three hundred figures per battle) I can make a relatively small number of these and yet re-use them again and again. They also have the advantage that you need no flock. Being transparent, the base largely vanishes into the battlefiled, especially if you play on a battle mat.
Good gaming.
very nice! I was trying to figure out how I could make matching paper pawns that'd match my pathfinder pawns. it's hard finding resources for near future settings
I do not attach a base. I buy binder clips and keep the paper minis unattached. That way it is easy to move and carry the minis without risking any damage. You just stakc them inside of a tubberware container and then put the binder clip on the bottom. In the end it is a lot cheaper, 92 cents gets you a dozen.
Sure, thats functional. Ugly, but certainly functional. But there are other ways to do non permanent bases, such as episode 053.
@@WylochsArmory I am more concerned with functionality, cost, time, and transportation. With of course cost being the driving factor.
I was just suggesting that for people who have less funds available to do such than buy glue, hot glue gun, and the other miscellany you add to the printouts that end up costing about 80 to 85 cents a mini as opposed to the 13 cents for my suggestion.
And that is not factoring in the extra cost one is going to incur in regards to transportation or the time cost incured by extra decoration on the base.
Instead of just buying a dollar tupperware container to store the couple hundred paper minis and the clips, you have to spend a buck fifty or so for a larger container and about 25 bucks on foam to keep the minis safe and secured from getting cruched or moving.
Spectacular! This just opened up a whole new way to produce minis for me. Thank you.
Cool! You could use that technic for fourniture, doors all of orther stuff you need. Thanks for sharing!
So I just thought of this while looking around for things to use for D&D crafting, i was trying to figure out how I was going to make paper minis without a printer, then I turn and see my entire collection of Magic The Gathering cards. Boxes upon boxes of commons and uncommon worth literally pennies, I start going through and wuickly find quite a few that have full beautiful artwork of cool creatures, I just grab my exact blade, cut out the monster from the image, then cut a square from the remaining text box and glue it to that as a base! Its not all that flashy, but it works and all you need is a magic card with a nice image, glue, and a knife! So far they look really good other than the card back, but it will do in a pinch and you can spend like $10 to get 1,000+ throw away cards at a game store. Might be worth looking into :)
You should start collecting creature tokens... those are worthless... Lol.
These are really stylish, I want to use this for non dnd crafts like just propping character art up and what not.
You are a true wizard; will definitelt be implementing this in my games :)
Hi there and thanks for sharing your passion with us. I couldn't match your skill and dedication but I would like to contribute with some details I personally like about paper minis. It is of course my opinion and not mandatory by any extend: First I think that a white background brightens up the figure, so the black line should be still be there for contrast purposes but very thin, over a white aura background. This suits better at least, or even if, you are portraying a full white figure such as Yeti or classic ghost. The base of figures should be always dark or directly black. Its work should not be to drag attention from the figure above it, keeping in mind exceptions such as the mentioned in-game item and such especial cases. Its shape round or elliptical and not too thick above "ground". Keeping a rectangular frame with somehow rounded superior corners around your figure instead of trimming around the figures' details make also excellent minis as long as all of them look similar. This makes the figure actually look better when you're not looking the figure directly in front of it. A paper figure melting too much with the rest of the diorama isn't actually a great achievement, since they are the story characters. Thank you.
This video helped me so much, I was trying to find out a way to play dnd cheaper and you gave me that option, thank you
When it started and he was drinking from that big glasses I half expected him to do an Archer and hold his finger up signaling us to wait while he drank some more. :)
This is fantastic!
Thank you so much! I know you made this a few years ago but this will be a great to make into set of stocking stuffers for my boys who are just getting into D&D!
as someone looking to start DM play and needing a bunch of minis, these are inspiring. lovely, too.
Thanks!
Maybe it's that I'm tired today. Whatever the reason, I am 🤣 at "Poorhammer". Pretty sure GW won't be endorsing that one any time … ever. Love the tutorial on these!
Solid video. I'm surprised I haven't seen this content online before. Guess it's the tree in the forest (for me). Now I've got to learn how to use my computer and printer ?! The craft part is the easy part for me. LOL ! Really like the color coding and simple base construction. Thank you.
Thank you very much for this video. I'm terrible with painting minis (lazy too) and don't like the expense involved.
Broke down and got Photoshop elements 15 just for this. Also got me some label paper because that's a lot easier than gluing.
jesternario I am a paper crafter, and do a lot of detail cutting. Skip bulky scissors and just use a cheap pair of curved manicure scissors. Turn the image, not the scissors. Also- crease the top well before pulling the label off. If you don't have a bone folder, fold and use your fingernail for a sharp crease. If you do have one, also use it once the image is down on the CS to make it look prefect and also once the tape is down. HTH.
Thank you! You're awesome! Keep up the good work. Definitely going to be watching all your similar vids.
Oh boy, this video has got me thinking. I’ll have to make some and think of my some improvements with my engineering experience.
When putting the white glue on the bottom of the washer can you substitute it for clear pva or does it have to be white glue?
I'm sure clear is fine
@@WylochsArmory Oh my- I wasn't actually expecting a response but hell yeah thank you!
man, I wasn't going to do this, but it looks like so much fun!
Thanks, great idea.
Super Awesome. I just found you through facebook and Im definitely going to be making use of this method. Thank you so much.
Looks gorgeous! I'm gonna do it in a few days hopefully!
This actually looks really really cool! I'm going to try this!
Ok I have started to make a few of these for our games .. I have made mostly elves and humand ()and a young dragon .. when you are making dwarves, halflings or goblins what size do you use for the guide ? obviously the smaller races will not be the size of humans .. or would you simply go with 60 - 75%
I just go with whatever feels right. I have a standard human fighter that I treat as my "standard". I copy it next to whatever I'm working on, and scale it appropriately relative to that standard human.
This was sooo cool! Im gonna buy photoshop and try it myself! Though, I think Im going to do mine with a white edge around them, I think the black edge makes the picture harder to see.
ninjabunny A white paint pen should do it. Also, buy cheap curved manicure scissors for the detail cutting. Turn the image, not your scissors. I would also get a bone folder with a half off coupon from retail me not at any major craft store to make sure everything is flush.
Wow, that dragon is amazing!
Great tip, great ideia!
Thanks!
You could partner with some artists and make your own line of paper miniatures with this technique. You have a lot of talent man. I am very impressed!
Greatly impressed here. Greetings from Perú.
Tabletop Gaming with Juce My BFF is an artist, I am a crafter. That sounds like a good idea!
Julie Kent let me know how that goes. I'm very interested.
Thank you so much this helped out immensely, you made a great video! Congratulations on making such a well crafted instruction video!
Incredibly helpful! thank you very much my friend! Do you have a video on making mini dungeons as well? from cardstock?
I have many, many, many of those sir. Check my "All Crafting Tutorials" playlist.
This is very cool. I have been looking for miniatures for Rangers of The Shadowdeep. I think I'll give this a try! Thanks.
How do you use the packing tape on gargantuan minis?
I love all of your videos.
Multiple strips, with about a 1/8" overlap.
They're gorgeous! thank you for sharing!
is it possible to use cardstock or card board and make half circles with slits at the top to fit together?
Quick question. How would you go about scaling it up?
You showed, mostly, the medium height creature. How would you go about making a Large or gargantuan creature? Or smaller creatures?
Hey I was just wondering what kind of colors do you use for coloring the sand of the miniatures and what sizes do I have to use for small- colosall ?
+Happy's Nightcore Hello - the paint scheme is at 10:07. The gray is Slate Gray. The base sizes depend on the game you're playing. For D&D, Large would be 2 inches, Huge is 3 inches, etc. I believe colossal would be 6 inches.
I love this tutorial! Its perfect! 😁👌 However I might just have to draw my own characters because my friends prefer my designs for their characters. I will be printing the dragons and beasts though. 😁👍
Fantastic instructions and video example. Thank you!
If you get black foam core you can avoid the need to paint the edges, you can also print "ground" on gloss photo paper and glue to the black foam core
CK VonPickles how would you cut the foamcore for all the fine detail portions, such as around a sword, or it is a very dynamic pose?
Wyloch's Crafting Vids sorry meant black core for the base, though you could try black card stock as the "stiffener"
CK VonPickles ah yes, I discuss that in a later episode.
Do you happen to have a tutorial for printing larger minis? Like, ones for bases 4x as large?
What weight cardstock do you use?
I can't seem to get the white glue to adhere to the washers in order to flock it.
The mini stuck well with the gluegun but trialing a hot glue coat to the base wasn't effective, it became too tall and lumpy.
Would you have any tips?
sorry one more question
do all the images (mainly humanoids) have to be face on?
it's just some of the images I like that look more realistic and less cartoony but have an awkward diagonal pose where one leg is much further back than the Orc your showing
is there a way for the awkward poses look better or should I just go with another image
oh!! those are really cool!! definitely gonna try making these
How do you just select the figure like in 3:37 in GIMP? I can only select the white space.
Use Fuzzy Tool (aka Wand), select white space around figure, then Select -> Invert.
Sad thing is, when you duplicate and expand the image for the outline step in GIMP, the program seems to offset it. The outline is not directly behind (expanded by 10 pixels) like in PS.
I do a lot of fine detail cutting, they make swivel exacto's, but honestly when cutting cardstock the best way to do tiny work like between the Orc's legs is a pair of curved manicure scissors. Can even be a $1 pair. Turn the cardstock not your scissors. Much more precise.
I don't know if I've missed it in the video, but I'm not sure if you mention the dimensions you use for the gauge and tab layers when printing out large or huge creatures? I'm trying to make some giants but I don't know what measurements to use, any help would be appreciated
Just paste the image next to a finished human fighter, and scale it until it "feels right." Huge creatures are not nearly as consistent...young dragon, ogre, gel cube, all of them very different heights. So I did not provide a gauge for Large (or other sizes) because there is no useful standard. I just scale it next to a standard human until it "feels right" to me. And obviously, the Tab for a Large creature would be 2".
What i really wanna know is how to print like this. It looks great!
So I live up in the mountains and we don't have craft stores or much card stock besides flashcard material, but I had an idea. Could you do a tutorialm on turning aluminum cans or foil into bases?
how do you store them? They look like they would take up a lot of space sadly. I liked the little details you added to make each one unique. I'm definitely going to use your printing method. Thankyou
Check my follow up videos on this....one is called Cardstock Armies and the other is More Cardstock Armies