There are differences, but they are subtle, by design. For example - Sport modes with get the drivetrain to optimal high performance temperature and keep it in that tight temperature band, even if that costs more energy. Bjorn actually showed that some time ago - turning the sport mode 10-15 minutes before going to a charger will get the battery nice and hot - a useful "hack" for cars that do not have battery preconditioning for charging or for situations when the car does not know that you are going to a high speed charger now (using non-car navigation, charger not in the map, ...). Heating up the battery uses extra energy, so Sports modes *do* consume more energy *in some specific situations* . Eco Pro is more stingy with all kinds of electronics, it is more likely to put modules or parts to sleep faster when unused, it operates the climate control in a different mode that optimized for power consumption with lesser priority on customer comfort and it will also do other hacks, like putting more power into more efficient seat heating rather than more wasteful air heating or doing as much air heating as possible with the heat pump and not use the resistive heating coil at all. The modified throttle response of the Eco Pro mode helps one not to be too aggressive with the acceleration, which naturally reduces consumption. You *can* get a few extra km of range with the Eco Pro mode and loose a few km of range with Sport mode and the GOM does reflect that when you change modes. But it is like single digit km difference over 300 km range. Changes in acceleration behavior and even wind affect the range more than just driving mode. Similar with D and B modes. As general rule they should be equal in efficiency because the BMW has blended brakes - pressing the brake pedal first increases the regen and only when you press the brake pedal hard do the mechanical brakes start to be added in. For that reason (unlike Tesla) the D mode is just as efficient. In addition, in some cases the D mode can be *more* efficient because it enables way easier coasting instead of regen+acceleration, especially with the adaptive regen setting active. So D vs B becomes a matter of taste - how you like to drive and control your car, not a matter of efficiency. Naturally driving in driving assistant professional mode negates almost all of the differences, so if you are cruising, then nothing of that matters at all. If you want extra range, then just drive behind another car, van or a truck - in some cases you can even double your range that way.
Comparing the drive modes on highway driving with ACC enabled is why you're getting the same results across the board. When ACC is enabled, the i4 uses a form of 'Adaptive' regen regardless of what drive mode (D/B) you have selected, coasting when it can and using varying levels of regen as it needs to in order to maintain a constant speed (and/or distance to the car in front). It's a similar story with the difference between Sport/Comfort/Eco Pro. There's not much difference, as cruising at a constant speed, the i4 M50 disengages the front motor as it's not needed. If you were to slow down and rengage, then of course the drive mode will determine how fast you get back up to cruising speed (and the consumption will vary). The drive modes only really count for anything when you're manually controlling the throttle.
...um... that's exactly how you'd drive it with 'one-pedal driving' (ie. B Mode or like the old i3). I don't understand how people think it's either 'all or nothing'. Just lift your foot a little to coast, lift further for a little region... and lift entirely for maximum regeneration. It's not that difficult.
@@nitramluap if basically all B mode implementations the "dead" zone between "accelerating" and "regenerating" is tiny and very hard to hit and it changes each time the speed changes. Coasting is most efficient mode when possible, so making it easier to hit that has important efficiency benefits in the real world.
Hahaha. Nice one. Made this video knowing exactly what would happen in the comments of the 1000km challenge 😁 Constant speeds == makes no difference, like with all other cars tested. The only thing that could have been (but i'm sure is not the case) is that the beaver will be in a different mode concerning the battery temps or cooling in Sport Mode. But i guess even that would not make a big difference when you only drive 1000km with the constant speed. Would be a nice test: Tesla in Track Mode vs Range Mode (loop must be a bit longer than 8.1km). Dal => Espa => Dal maybe.
I don't think B and D modes are supposed to make any software consumption changes to the drive train. They are there to alter driving style over distance. You can hypermile Better in D mode as costing will make best use of momentum covering more KMs. B mode will evoke regen slowing your momentum any time you even lightly lift your foot off the accelerator regenerating energy back to the battery BUT at a loss of some energy. So B and D at the same speed on a stright motorway will produce same results. But in D mode on all different roads and vairous speed limits junctions and roundbouts over a long journey, D mode will absolutely produce more KMs but ONLY IF COASTING is part of our driving style. B mode restricts momentum D mode makes best use of momentum. Conservation of momentum for the win.
Using ACC D/B are not supposed to make any difference as the speed is kept constant anyways. The differences between D/B shows when manually driving and coasting in D instead of regenerating in B. Porsche concluded that coasting was always more efficient (as there is no regeneration losses+re-acceleration losses), hence the more efficient D. If you don't allow for speed changes (cruise control), it won't make a difference.
@@asymmetrx No, common mistake made by 95% of all car reviewers as they are not engineers - Bjorn knows though. All EV's have the ability to regen to a "regen peak" kW and that figure is unchanged whether this is done using the blended brakes (ie using the brake peddle below regen-peak) or using B mode or any other combination. Exceeding regen-peak on the blended brakes will waste energy with the friction brakes of course. B mode is a human convenience mode to allow you to use one peddle. Only Tesla does not have blended brakes which means that you only have max-B mode or friction brakes. This design is so you don't end up with spongy/unpredictable brake peddle but means you have no options on the amount of lift-off regen. Coasting is the most efficient as it is a equivalent of not using regen (or acceleration) therefore resulting in no losses from regen - about 5%-15%. Unfortunately 90% of driving which is done on crazy highways with 100 other people trying to kill you, the likelyhood of coasting without annoying someone is low. Therefore "coasting is efficient" is a moot point.
@@tomooo2637 wow, then I don’t understand how to drive my Ioniq classic efficiently. It has four regen levels (3-2-1-0) and it doesn’t have B mode which means it’s creeping at low speeds and I’m forced to use breaks to stop it. It was different with my ex i3 where regen worked almost at 0 kmh and I almost never used brake pedal. So I thought that this creeping on Ioniq is bad for efficiency when driving in city because I’m losing electricity when braking using brake pedal. That was one of the explanation why my Ioniq is consuming +- 10-11 kwh in city whereas with i3 I could easily go down to 9-9.5 kwh in city
Dear Tesla-Björn, Could you make a short video explaining the reason why free-rolling when possible is more efficient than the regeneration of energy to the battery? It seems that the amount of conversion losses in the regeneration to the battery is not understood: FREE-ROLLING: Direct use of the car's mechanical potential and kinetic energy to drive it forward. No use of battery or motors. No conversion losses. REGENERATION BY BRAKING: Mechanical energy > Electrical AC by the motor running as a generator > Electrical DC conversion to charge the battery. All these steps introduce conversion and resistance losses as well as gearbox and motor mechanical losses.
That's why B mode is less efficient than D(adaptive), especially going downhill. In D-mode the I4 free-rolls and accelerates without using any power. You can apply regen braking by using the pedal at any time if the car runs too fast downhill. The I4 is actually intelligent enough to understand and adapt the regen to your manual speed selection and attempts to keep the preferred speed for the rest of the slope. I use that every day on a steep, narrow gravel road with a nasty bend. I brake to 25 kph and it remains around that the brake pedal. Works brilliantly!
when i tested an i4 for 3 days, i found B mode was best to switch on when needed... so use to slow down or on long downward hills, i got tonnes of regen. also on mixed road and motorway i got 3.7miles per kwH doing 86.8 miles in total
No matter which brand, I usually find B mode (one pedal driving) better when driving in the city where you have to slow down a lot for each intersection or red light. When overland outside towns though (where you drive about 70-100 km/h) and down need to break often D mode is the best. Edit: And if I'm too lazy to press the brake pedal sometimes I enable B mode before roundabouts to slow down with it.
I guess it's impossible to test consistently, but it would be interesting to see how sport mode affects consumption with more traffic. Don't know how it is with BMW, but the Ioniq 5 at least can change acceleration and breaking distance based on the mode
Very interesting test. Thx for doing it. I am disappointed from eco mode. It seems that only difference will be in case of A/C on where it has some limited power. But no drivetrain difference.
You mentioned drafting a few times in this video Bjorn. Is it possible to make a video about this? Is it for example quicker on a long trip to draft a car with 110 then drive alone 120? And within how many seconds do you have to be to notice a effect. What is the best distance and what is the effect of the car size in front.
Those modes are provided for emotional satisfaction more than anything else. Drivers can set it to their aspirational style and it will affect the throttle mapping more than anything else. I think your test just about confirms that. The differences in inherent efficiency will be lower than experimental error when cruising. In stop start city driving you might get more difference but repeating exact test cycle is impossible without artificial standardised tests on a rolling road so then air resistance is not in the test.
How much of your driving is cruising at constant speed? The main innovation of BMW (and MB) is the intelligent adaptive recuperation in D-mode. The driving modes are of less importance if you use the same driving style. I doubt that a sport-mode and an eco-pro mode driver have the same personality and consumption. See my longer comment for details.
@@richardgoldsmith7278 If consumption and range were your priorities, you learned the basics of eco-driving years ago with ICE cars. My last Volvo V70 had a free-rolling feature in "eco-mode". Actually, my Saab 95 1973 had a free-rolling mode, so the concept is old and well known. The default setting in D-mode automates the eco-driving and minimizes consumption. The good thing is that it works in both eco-pro and comfort modes. I have not tested it in the sport- mode that is not interesting for me. I am highly satisfied with my I4 which is a brilliant premium luxury car. We all have individual priorities. The sporty guys should not worry about the consumption and range. They can take the additional running costs (charging and tires). Some of us are instead trying our best to optimize the impact on climate change. The low running cost is a bonus.
Please also try Recuperation mode (R-mode)! But be careful when the battery reach 100% as the car may suddenly stop! I don't think a full 1000 km will be needed...
I have the same Car, If i drive only a short Time fast, the consumption ist very good. I drive my since 15.000 Kilomters under 20 KW. 400 Kilometers i can drive with no Stop. BMW had made a perfect "German Panzer". I am so happy with my car. I hope the new BMW i5 45 would be also good or better. For me is my car a little bit too small!
B mode and eco pro together are best for city driving with stop and go traffic. B mode is for extra regenerative braking and one pedal driving which doesn’t matter when you’re cruising on the freeway of course.
Maybe you would have gotten more variation on consumption if you tried in a road that is more up and down in speed limit, more elevation differences, and maybe more curves that might influence speed.. If you find such a road, then the regen and coasting feature might be more utilized.. and also the way the adaptive cruise controller is accelerating and braking.. that is much more smooth in Eco..
You should do such a test on the roads you are driving on during ''Sunday driving'' where speed changes more often, there are brakes and changes in altitude.
The consumption is less with Eco mode a warm summer day as the air condition use less energy. Your driving in the dark and cold. Obviously the ECO-mode doesn´t save much then. Eco-driving is also a part to take in consideration. B mode in a good option in thaffic to not use the breakes but does not save so much energy.
in ICE BMW that eco pro "smug wanker" mode does make a difference as it changes up gear early, whereas in sport it keeps the RPMs at a rate where the turbo is ready to play. in their EV, tuning air conditioning is probably the main difference in steady state driving. I bet it is on,y in ECO-pro mode where their turbo diesels pass Euro6 tests
So if you choose high u recouping more energy than using low?is there a huge difference in how much energy battery will get between high med and low..excuse my lack of knowledge,due to pick up my i4 next week and 1pedal mode is a first for me.
Hi Uncle Bjorn. Very interesting comparison here and I appreciated all the efforts you put into testing. I have found that with EVs, Ninja mode (Things like Eco Pro) tend to be less dramatic in their effect unless you're in stop start traffic (which you mention). I also have a hybrid BMW (Activehybrid 5) and I have found that Eco Pro does make a difference especially with navigation enabled. So when a car has an ICE and Hybrid i have measured a difference. But for EV? Not so much.
With consistent speed there will be minimal difference between the consumption in different modes. If you test with stop and go driving then should be some difference
Peugeot e208 consumption is lower in B mode for my daily commute (24km, city driving). D mode - 135wh/km B mode - 127wh/km This difference is proably due to mechanical brakes kicking in more frequently in D mode. Note: I don't expect any EV to have different consumption in D and B mode on highway.
Great video mate, I’m having a lot of trouble adapting to the lack of range, was quoted 360 with a car came down to a usable 310 circa, now only getting 230 miles on a full charge not good! Had I’ve known this I’ve not chose this car due to the miles I do each day
I see some people drive with windows down instead of A/C to save fuel/energy. I would be curious if the consumption is not actually higher than A/C at 90-100km/h speeds. Also I am curious what an open sunroof does to the consumption.
Driving with windows or sunroof open will greatly increase wind resistance at high speed and massacre your range. Saw a Model 3 the other day with roof rack bars fitted .... no, no, no - only when you actually have to put something on the roof (and then you’ll need to recharge far more frequently)
OK, one does not need testing to understand the results at a constant speed using cruise control and climate entirely off shall be the same. The motor power used for your tests is low and the same in all modes if other factors are the same. The Eco-pro reduces the peak power of the driveline and climate power use. It is unrealistic to drive with the climate unit off, so what was that idea? You designed the test to show equal results. The differences will show up in urban driving with acceleration somewhat muted in eco-pro (disappointing for a typical BMW or Tesla driver). Most people drive most miles commuting of which some are in congested traffic. The difference between B and D (adaptive recuperation and ) is also most obvious when you go up and downhill or let the car use D-mode recuperation planning in urban driving. D-mode (adaptive) uses as much free-wheeling as possible () during retardation and downhill driving saving typically at least 10-15%.Adaptive recuperation also makes driving more relaxing since you don't have your foot on the accelerator all the time. It breaks automatically and in time to avoid mechanical brakes when you need to slow down or stop for obstructions. I enjoy this very much in my I4. So I think you only partially busted the myth if it was a myth or maybe just ignorance. Why not add a well defined urban driving cycle to your testing? I agree that it is not easy to design and apply a controlled road test. Maybe alternatively there is a dynamometer facility that can be programmed and used in your region.
I guess the biggest difference in eco mode is that it lowers the AC to "tesla levels" so that it actually will never reach 21 degrees in under -10 or over +30. Or at least reach it very slowly. According to winter tests in -12 degrees the max temp in a model Y was +15 degrees as heat is directed to warm the batteries instead. This saves a lot of energy of course and adds range.
Tesla forced Max regen on all customers because they filed law suit stating they could not get claimed(by Tesla) range. In a way you could say Tesla only have one mode (B)(do you get what im saying or am i plain wrong?😅) . It also does most better except comfort. But i guess for that you have air suspension in the higher end cars.
In a Toyota Hybrid, the B mode is for engine braking. So when moving downhill, the car won't accelerate due to gravity. Isn't that what the B mode is in the electric cars also?
The mode allone does nothing for your consumption, especially if you drive long distances at constant speeds or with adaptive cruise control. In order for D mode to have any effect on consumption, you need to drastically change your driving style. Basically you have to drive, like your car had no brakes at all, let off the "gas" very early and let it roll out at traffic lights, exits etc. Since electrc cars have recuperative brakes, the difference is a lot smaller than with combustion cars.
@@konsul2006 That's why B mode is less efficient than D(adaptive). In D-mode you can apply regen braking by using the brake pedal any time if the car runs too fast downhill. The I4 is actually intelligent enough to adapt the regen to your manual speed selection and attempts to keep the preferred speed for the rest of the slope.
What kind of source does your nissecritics use as reference? Maybe they have thoroughly tested and analyzed the differences 😂 Ventilated seats for the win
Oh boy, why so much complication and useless modes just to be in line with the ICE range ! Come on BMW re-think the usage, get ride of all of that myriad of buttons, just let the customer drive and take care for him of the best use of battery !!
All of those range tests are basically drivetrain/aero tests, not car efficiency tests. I‘ve been making a lot of tours with a friend with a Tesla Model 3. While his car is incredibly efficient going fast and straight, my Ioniq 5 is much more efficient going up and down in the mountains. Seems to recover way more energy. I’m talking 14 kWh / 100 km vs 20 kWh / 100 km in the Model 3. So in order to get a better picture, test routes should include elevation and some stop and gos…
@@manuelkong3611 Can't be. You take the foot off the accelerator = full regen. Normally you don't need to touch the brake at all. Only when you have to slow down even more you need to use the brake. No meshing required. I bet your friend did not have Regen set to max and was unnecessarily using the brake and wasting energy.
@@moestrei Can‘t say for sure but I‘d be surprised if he drove without regen set to maximum. What I can say is that on our roads regen isn‘t enough to slow down. So while my car is using maximum regen AND mechanical brake, his is not regeneration while on the brake. Right?
Bojrn do we have this problem with the Tesla? This is a car that advertises 544 hp.. but it doesn't have it all the time due to thermal throttling.. and the same with charging.. the power settings are irrelevant, full power should be available all the time.. eco mode should then limit the vehicle in whatever methods required to give maximum economy in my humble opinion. Other settings for dampers, steering and are great ! If I bought one of these I take it straight back as it doesn't charge at the advertised rate and it doesn't have the advertised power all the time.... The power boost meter should be renamed to the power limiting meter. Bojrn do we have this problem with the Tesla? Maybe as some other say you should try the different modes on a combined cycle.. to see if the BMW miraculously comes up with better economy...but tbh I doubt it would..but I understand why you do this simple test as it is not as time-consuming as a combined test would be.
BMW recalled all iX and i4 cars due to batteries catching fire... The batteries have to be replaced. I wonder if this car has the new battery or the old defective ones.
interesting, they call back all? did not hear or read about it. same with the big tecall for EQE and EQS I uust saw one message about. when one Tesla caught fire it was followed by a shitstorm on social media. yeah well media and legacy car makers. but bad for the owners... always thought the BMW i4 esp edrive40 is a really cool car
Not so hard. Do as you are used to. put it in D and you get adaptive regenerative braking if you don't change the default settings. This is the most effective setting. In addition, use the pedals as in your ICE car, no reason to learn one pedal driving.
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There are differences, but they are subtle, by design. For example - Sport modes with get the drivetrain to optimal high performance temperature and keep it in that tight temperature band, even if that costs more energy. Bjorn actually showed that some time ago - turning the sport mode 10-15 minutes before going to a charger will get the battery nice and hot - a useful "hack" for cars that do not have battery preconditioning for charging or for situations when the car does not know that you are going to a high speed charger now (using non-car navigation, charger not in the map, ...). Heating up the battery uses extra energy, so Sports modes *do* consume more energy *in some specific situations* . Eco Pro is more stingy with all kinds of electronics, it is more likely to put modules or parts to sleep faster when unused, it operates the climate control in a different mode that optimized for power consumption with lesser priority on customer comfort and it will also do other hacks, like putting more power into more efficient seat heating rather than more wasteful air heating or doing as much air heating as possible with the heat pump and not use the resistive heating coil at all. The modified throttle response of the Eco Pro mode helps one not to be too aggressive with the acceleration, which naturally reduces consumption. You *can* get a few extra km of range with the Eco Pro mode and loose a few km of range with Sport mode and the GOM does reflect that when you change modes. But it is like single digit km difference over 300 km range. Changes in acceleration behavior and even wind affect the range more than just driving mode.
Similar with D and B modes. As general rule they should be equal in efficiency because the BMW has blended brakes - pressing the brake pedal first increases the regen and only when you press the brake pedal hard do the mechanical brakes start to be added in. For that reason (unlike Tesla) the D mode is just as efficient. In addition, in some cases the D mode can be *more* efficient because it enables way easier coasting instead of regen+acceleration, especially with the adaptive regen setting active. So D vs B becomes a matter of taste - how you like to drive and control your car, not a matter of efficiency.
Naturally driving in driving assistant professional mode negates almost all of the differences, so if you are cruising, then nothing of that matters at all. If you want extra range, then just drive behind another car, van or a truck - in some cases you can even double your range that way.
buddy, what an enormous time and effort you put into these video's. Much appreciated. Legend!
Comparing the drive modes on highway driving with ACC enabled is why you're getting the same results across the board. When ACC is enabled, the i4 uses a form of 'Adaptive' regen regardless of what drive mode (D/B) you have selected, coasting when it can and using varying levels of regen as it needs to in order to maintain a constant speed (and/or distance to the car in front). It's a similar story with the difference between Sport/Comfort/Eco Pro. There's not much difference, as cruising at a constant speed, the i4 M50 disengages the front motor as it's not needed. If you were to slow down and rengage, then of course the drive mode will determine how fast you get back up to cruising speed (and the consumption will vary).
The drive modes only really count for anything when you're manually controlling the throttle.
The point with this video was 1000 km challenge.
...um... that's exactly how you'd drive it with 'one-pedal driving' (ie. B Mode or like the old i3). I don't understand how people think it's either 'all or nothing'. Just lift your foot a little to coast, lift further for a little region... and lift entirely for maximum regeneration. It's not that difficult.
@@nitramluap if basically all B mode implementations the "dead" zone between "accelerating" and "regenerating" is tiny and very hard to hit and it changes each time the speed changes. Coasting is most efficient mode when possible, so making it easier to hit that has important efficiency benefits in the real world.
Du är bäst Björn , fortsätt med dina underbara tester !!
Hahaha. Nice one. Made this video knowing exactly what would happen in the comments of the 1000km challenge 😁
Constant speeds == makes no difference, like with all other cars tested. The only thing that could have been (but i'm sure is not the case) is that the beaver will be in a different mode concerning the battery temps or cooling in Sport Mode. But i guess even that would not make a big difference when you only drive 1000km with the constant speed. Would be a nice test: Tesla in Track Mode vs Range Mode (loop must be a bit longer than 8.1km). Dal => Espa => Dal maybe.
I'm so glad you still use Samsung, your S9 is beautiful
@ 8:10 what the weck is that?? Is it a blinker on a BMW??? Hããã ??? Bjørn it’s a new feature optional?
How many videos can you make on one car? Bjorn: yes.
JK, love the content dude
The correct answer: nein!
I don't think B and D modes are supposed to make any software consumption changes to the drive train. They are there to alter driving style over distance.
You can hypermile Better in D mode as costing will make best use of momentum covering more KMs.
B mode will evoke regen slowing your momentum any time you even lightly lift your foot off the accelerator regenerating energy back to the battery BUT at a loss of some energy.
So B and D at the same speed on a stright motorway will produce same results.
But in D mode on all different roads and vairous speed limits junctions and roundbouts over a long journey, D mode will absolutely produce more KMs but ONLY IF COASTING is part of our driving style.
B mode restricts momentum
D mode makes best use of momentum.
Conservation of momentum for the win.
Thanks for this test! Highest level of electric ninjaness!
Using ACC D/B are not supposed to make any difference as the speed is kept constant anyways.
The differences between D/B shows when manually driving and coasting in D instead of regenerating in B.
Porsche concluded that coasting was always more efficient (as there is no regeneration losses+re-acceleration losses), hence the more efficient D. If you don't allow for speed changes (cruise control), it won't make a difference.
Exactly. And for 1000 km challenge it doesn't matter.
Wow! I used to think that B mode is always more efficient because it fully uses regeneration. Got to check it out
@@asymmetrx No, common mistake made by 95% of all car reviewers as they are not engineers - Bjorn knows though. All EV's have the ability to regen to a "regen peak" kW and that figure is unchanged whether this is done using the blended brakes (ie using the brake peddle below regen-peak) or using B mode or any other combination. Exceeding regen-peak on the blended brakes will waste energy with the friction brakes of course. B mode is a human convenience mode to allow you to use one peddle.
Only Tesla does not have blended brakes which means that you only have max-B mode or friction brakes. This design is so you don't end up with spongy/unpredictable brake peddle but means you have no options on the amount of lift-off regen.
Coasting is the most efficient as it is a equivalent of not using regen (or acceleration) therefore resulting in no losses from regen - about 5%-15%. Unfortunately 90% of driving which is done on crazy highways with 100 other people trying to kill you, the likelyhood of coasting without annoying someone is low. Therefore "coasting is efficient" is a moot point.
@@tomooo2637 wow, then I don’t understand how to drive my Ioniq classic efficiently. It has four regen levels (3-2-1-0) and it doesn’t have B mode which means it’s creeping at low speeds and I’m forced to use breaks to stop it. It was different with my ex i3 where regen worked almost at 0 kmh and I almost never used brake pedal. So I thought that this creeping on Ioniq is bad for efficiency when driving in city because I’m losing electricity when braking using brake pedal. That was one of the explanation why my Ioniq is consuming +- 10-11 kwh in city whereas with i3 I could easily go down to 9-9.5 kwh in city
@@tomooo2637 btw I drive my Ioniq all the time at max possible regen and almost never coasting
6:50 "But i still have the boost power available in case i need to humiliate some fossil car". I laughed :p
Dear Tesla-Björn, Could you make a short video explaining the reason why free-rolling when possible is more efficient than the regeneration of energy to the battery? It seems that the amount of conversion losses in the regeneration to the battery is not understood:
FREE-ROLLING: Direct use of the car's mechanical potential and kinetic energy to drive it forward. No use of battery or motors. No conversion losses.
REGENERATION BY BRAKING: Mechanical energy > Electrical AC by the motor running as a generator > Electrical DC conversion to charge the battery.
All these steps introduce conversion and resistance losses as well as gearbox and motor mechanical losses.
That's why B mode is less efficient than D(adaptive), especially going downhill. In D-mode the I4 free-rolls and accelerates without using any power. You can apply regen braking by using the pedal at any time if the car runs too fast downhill. The I4 is actually intelligent enough to understand and adapt the regen to your manual speed selection and attempts to keep the preferred speed for the rest of the slope. I use that every day on a steep, narrow gravel road with a nasty bend. I brake to 25 kph and it remains around that the brake pedal. Works brilliantly!
I see that in different cars. I drove my IO5 in different modes, with same result, only marginal differences in consumption.
when i tested an i4 for 3 days, i found B mode was best to switch on when needed... so use to slow down or on long downward hills, i got tonnes of regen. also on mixed road and motorway i got 3.7miles per kwH doing 86.8 miles in total
No matter which brand, I usually find B mode (one pedal driving) better when driving in the city where you have to slow down a lot for each intersection or red light. When overland outside towns though (where you drive about 70-100 km/h) and down need to break often D mode is the best. Edit: And if I'm too lazy to press the brake pedal sometimes I enable B mode before roundabouts to slow down with it.
You mean kWh/h 🙃
I guess it's impossible to test consistently, but it would be interesting to see how sport mode affects consumption with more traffic. Don't know how it is with BMW, but the Ioniq 5 at least can change acceleration and breaking distance based on the mode
Thank You for the entertaining order of publishing :-)
...''in case I need to humiliate a fossil car''! 🤣 You made my day!👍
Excellent work, as expected too if all the wheels driven the same way throughout and the driver is consistent.
Hi Bjørn, can u please test the noob mode? Thanks
Please show how to bring up and pin values since individual screen
Two things affect consumption: HVAC and speed i.e. right foot
Very interesting test. Thx for doing it. I am disappointed from eco mode. It seems that only difference will be in case of A/C on where it has some limited power. But no drivetrain difference.
Should it switch to 1 wheel drive? 😂
What I’ve learnt from this video is how consistently Bjorn can drive. I mean, you got exactly the same result every time - that’s hard ...
You mentioned drafting a few times in this video Bjorn. Is it possible to make a video about this? Is it for example quicker on a long trip to draft a car with 110 then drive alone 120? And within how many seconds do you have to be to notice a effect. What is the best distance and what is the effect of the car size in front.
Those modes are provided for emotional satisfaction more than anything else. Drivers can set it to their aspirational style and it will affect the throttle mapping more than anything else. I think your test just about confirms that. The differences in inherent efficiency will be lower than experimental error when cruising. In stop start city driving you might get more difference but repeating exact test cycle is impossible without artificial standardised tests on a rolling road so then air resistance is not in the test.
How much of your driving is cruising at constant speed? The main innovation of BMW (and MB) is the intelligent adaptive recuperation in D-mode. The driving modes are of less importance if you use the same driving style. I doubt that a sport-mode and an eco-pro mode driver have the same personality and consumption. See my longer comment for details.
@@Ljuddoktorn I’m not sure you were thinking that but I suspect we are in total agreement about the actual differences.
It's not bs. Have you actual experience or just neg.attitude?
@@richardgoldsmith7278 If consumption and range were your priorities, you learned the basics of eco-driving years ago with ICE cars. My last Volvo V70 had a free-rolling feature in "eco-mode". Actually, my Saab 95 1973 had a free-rolling mode, so the concept is old and well known.
The default setting in D-mode automates the eco-driving and minimizes consumption. The good thing is that it works in both eco-pro and comfort modes. I have not tested it in the sport- mode that is not interesting for me. I am highly satisfied with my I4 which is a brilliant premium luxury car.
We all have individual priorities. The sporty guys should not worry about the consumption and range. They can take the additional running costs (charging and tires). Some of us are instead trying our best to optimize the impact on climate change. The low running cost is a bonus.
Can you show the differences in regenerative energy returned to the pack in D and B in Eco, Comfort and Sport as well?
Please also try Recuperation mode (R-mode)! But be careful when the battery reach 100% as the car may suddenly stop! I don't think a full 1000 km will be needed...
😀The R-mode is reverse. Funny.
I have the same Car, If i drive only a short Time fast, the consumption ist very good. I drive my since 15.000 Kilomters under 20 KW. 400 Kilometers i can drive with no Stop.
BMW had made a perfect "German Panzer". I am so happy with my car. I hope the new BMW i5 45 would be also good or better. For me is my car a little bit too small!
B mode and eco pro together are best for city driving with stop and go traffic. B mode is for extra regenerative braking and one pedal driving which doesn’t matter when you’re cruising on the freeway of course.
Incorrect. B mode is very useful on the highway.
If you use the cruise control it will keep constant speed all times. Don't think it will coast?
Maybe you would have gotten more variation on consumption if you tried in a road that is more up and down in speed limit, more elevation differences, and maybe more curves that might influence speed..
If you find such a road, then the regen and coasting feature might be more utilized.. and also the way the adaptive cruise controller is accelerating and braking.. that is much more smooth in Eco..
You should do such a test on the roads you are driving on during ''Sunday driving'' where speed changes more often, there are brakes and changes in altitude.
That's not the point with this video...
The consumption is less with Eco mode a warm summer day as the air condition use less energy. Your driving in the dark and cold. Obviously the ECO-mode doesn´t save much then. Eco-driving is also a part to take in consideration. B mode in a good option in thaffic to not use the breakes but does not save so much energy.
in ICE BMW that eco pro "smug wanker" mode does make a difference as it changes up gear early, whereas in sport it keeps the RPMs at a rate where the turbo is ready to play. in their EV, tuning air conditioning is probably the main difference in steady state driving. I bet it is on,y in ECO-pro mode where their turbo diesels pass Euro6 tests
Should be A, B, and C mode. Those car manufacturers are not classy like Bjørn!
Always be classy!
So if you choose high u recouping more energy than using low?is there a huge difference in how much energy battery will get between high med and low..excuse my lack of knowledge,due to pick up my i4 next week and 1pedal mode is a first for me.
Is it possible they heat the battery in sport boost at lower SoC to maintain consistent acceleration at the lower SoC?
Can you make a pov test drive of the car?
ruclips.net/video/xrYgvkeUR6U/видео.html
"In case I need to humiliate some fossil car'. 🤣
Hi Uncle Bjorn. Very interesting comparison here and I appreciated all the efforts you put into testing. I have found that with EVs, Ninja mode (Things like Eco Pro) tend to be less dramatic in their effect unless you're in stop start traffic (which you mention). I also have a hybrid BMW (Activehybrid 5) and I have found that Eco Pro does make a difference especially with navigation enabled. So when a car has an ICE and Hybrid i have measured a difference. But for EV? Not so much.
With consistent speed there will be minimal difference between the consumption in different modes. If you test with stop and go driving then should be some difference
Peugeot e208 consumption is lower in B mode for my daily commute (24km, city driving).
D mode - 135wh/km
B mode - 127wh/km
This difference is proably due to mechanical brakes kicking in more frequently in D mode.
Note: I don't expect any EV to have different consumption in D and B mode on highway.
Plus minus 8Wh is no difference...
@@sworksm552 Well I think 5% is remarkable diff though...
@@hwanju94 I don't think so. 20% would be remarkable. 5% is probably smaller than the measurement error.
Great video mate, I’m having a lot of trouble adapting to the lack of range, was quoted 360 with a car came down to a usable 310 circa, now only getting 230 miles on a full charge not good! Had I’ve known this I’ve not chose this car due to the miles I do each day
I see some people drive with windows down instead of A/C to save fuel/energy.
I would be curious if the consumption is not actually higher than A/C at 90-100km/h speeds. Also I am curious what an open sunroof does to the consumption.
Driving with windows or sunroof open will greatly increase wind resistance at high speed and massacre your range.
Saw a Model 3 the other day with roof rack bars fitted .... no, no, no - only when you actually have to put something on the roof (and then you’ll need to recharge far more frequently)
OK, one does not need testing to understand the results at a constant speed using cruise control and climate entirely off shall be the same. The motor power used for your tests is low and the same in all modes if other factors are the same. The Eco-pro reduces the peak power of the driveline and climate power use. It is unrealistic to drive with the climate unit off, so what was that idea? You designed the test to show equal results.
The differences will show up in urban driving with acceleration somewhat muted in eco-pro (disappointing for a typical BMW or Tesla driver). Most people drive most miles commuting of which some are in congested traffic.
The difference between B and D (adaptive recuperation and ) is also most obvious when you go up and downhill or let the car use D-mode recuperation planning in urban driving. D-mode (adaptive) uses as much free-wheeling as possible () during retardation and downhill driving saving typically at least 10-15%.Adaptive recuperation also makes driving more relaxing since you don't have your foot on the accelerator all the time. It breaks automatically and in time to avoid mechanical brakes when you need to slow down or stop for obstructions. I enjoy this very much in my I4.
So I think you only partially busted the myth if it was a myth or maybe just ignorance. Why not add a well defined urban driving cycle to your testing? I agree that it is not easy to design and apply a controlled road test. Maybe alternatively there is a dynamometer facility that can be programmed and used in your region.
As long as you drive on the ACC drivemodes doesent matter ;-)
My point exactly... 1000 km challenge
@@bjornnyland 👍😊 sorry, i haven’t watched it yet but it’s on my playlist for the weekend👍😄
There will be a slight difference with A/C on though...I don't suppose you do the test without A/C
If you are running climate control at all, Eco-Pro should give you more range, with negligible notice on AC output.
I guess the biggest difference in eco mode is that it lowers the AC to "tesla levels" so that it actually will never reach 21 degrees in under -10 or over +30. Or at least reach it very slowly. According to winter tests in -12 degrees the max temp in a model Y was +15 degrees as heat is directed to warm the batteries instead. This saves a lot of energy of course and adds range.
It looks the driving modes affect acceleration only. Or, BMW engineers are still figuring out what to add for those modes. ^^
Tesla forced Max regen on all customers because they filed law suit stating they could not get claimed(by Tesla) range. In a way you could say Tesla only have one mode (B)(do you get what im saying or am i plain wrong?😅) . It also does most better except comfort. But i guess for that you have air suspension in the higher end cars.
Why are you testing D and B mode on the highway? B mode is for driving in the city :)
Incorrect
kWh/h.... BMW that is called a kW
bjørn just didn't find the configuration setting that allows you to select the units (or prefers to leave them as something he can complain about)
kWh/h ... 🤦♂
Can you not ask BMW? What is the official numbers for consumption when in D vs B? Surly the German engineers could explain this?
In a Toyota Hybrid, the B mode is for engine braking. So when moving downhill, the car won't accelerate due to gravity. Isn't that what the B mode is in the electric cars also?
The mode allone does nothing for your consumption, especially if you drive long distances at constant speeds or with adaptive cruise control.
In order for D mode to have any effect on consumption, you need to drastically change your driving style. Basically you have to drive, like your car had no brakes at all, let off the "gas" very early and let it roll out at traffic lights, exits etc.
Since electrc cars have recuperative brakes, the difference is a lot smaller than with combustion cars.
And you expect German car engineers to yell you the truth?
@@bjornnyland Expect, Yes. But thanks for doing your independent research 😉
@@konsul2006 That's why B mode is less efficient than D(adaptive). In D-mode you can apply regen braking by using the brake pedal any time if the car runs too fast downhill. The I4 is actually intelligent enough to adapt the regen to your manual speed selection and attempts to keep the preferred speed for the rest of the slope.
same but different :P
What kind of source does your nissecritics use as reference? Maybe they have thoroughly tested and analyzed the differences 😂
Ventilated seats for the win
Oh boy, why so much complication and useless modes just to be in line with the ICE range ! Come on BMW re-think the usage, get ride of all of that myriad of buttons, just let the customer drive and take care for him of the best use of battery !!
All of those range tests are basically drivetrain/aero tests, not car efficiency tests. I‘ve been making a lot of tours with a friend with a Tesla Model 3. While his car is incredibly efficient going fast and straight, my Ioniq 5 is much more efficient going up and down in the mountains. Seems to recover way more energy. I’m talking 14 kWh / 100 km vs 20 kWh / 100 km in the Model 3. So in order to get a better picture, test routes should include elevation and some stop and gos…
OnlyFan run
What was the regen setting on the Tesla?
@@moestrei Don‘t know. I assume Tesla not meshing mechanical brake with regen is the „problem“ driving in narrow and steep roads..
@@manuelkong3611 Can't be. You take the foot off the accelerator = full regen. Normally you don't need to touch the brake at all. Only when you have to slow down even more you need to use the brake. No meshing required. I bet your friend did not have Regen set to max and was unnecessarily using the brake and wasting energy.
@@moestrei Can‘t say for sure but I‘d be surprised if he drove without regen set to maximum. What I can say is that on our roads regen isn‘t enough to slow down. So while my car is using maximum regen AND mechanical brake, his is not regeneration while on the brake. Right?
It is obvious, if you understand Physics.
And yet people keep claiming that D mode and comfort mode is more efficient than B mode and sport mode in 1000 km challenge...
Bojrn do we have this problem with the Tesla? This is a car that advertises 544 hp.. but it doesn't have it all the time due to thermal throttling.. and the same with charging.. the power settings are irrelevant, full power should be available all the time.. eco mode should then limit the vehicle in whatever methods required to give maximum economy in my humble opinion. Other settings for dampers, steering and are great !
If I bought one of these I take it straight back as it doesn't charge at the advertised rate and it doesn't have the advertised power all the time.... The power boost meter should be renamed to the power limiting meter. Bojrn do we have this problem with the Tesla?
Maybe as some other say you should try the different modes on a combined cycle.. to see if the BMW miraculously comes up with better economy...but tbh I doubt it would..but I understand why you do this simple test as it is not as time-consuming as a combined test would be.
no
@@bjornnyland Tesla for the win ..as usual 😂
BMW recalled all iX and i4 cars due to batteries catching fire... The batteries have to be replaced. I wonder if this car has the new battery or the old defective ones.
It was about 80 cars so far. During production time, it were made much more cars.
interesting, they call back all? did not hear or read about it. same with the big tecall for EQE and EQS I uust saw one message about. when one Tesla caught fire it was followed by a shitstorm on social media. yeah well media and legacy car makers.
but bad for the owners... always thought the BMW i4 esp edrive40 is a really cool car
@@TeddyBearGaming999 ahhhh ok :)
KInd of cheesy and needs to be simplified ...too many settings for morons like me. In my fossil i put it in a D and drive it.
Not so hard. Do as you are used to. put it in D and you get adaptive regenerative braking if you don't change the default settings. This is the most effective setting.
In addition, use the pedals as in your ICE car, no reason to learn one pedal driving.