Hi Chris! New watcher here. I work in the field, and I'm starting to learn how to draft wall sections. Do you think you'd be able to do a video explaining a steel framing wall section? Thanks!
O yes 100% I can. I will do a live stream tomorrow (Sunday Jan 29) and will include a section on that and cut it out after or I'll put a time stamp in the pinned comment for you.
Hey Kronie! Love your videos! I am a new hire estimator and these videos are great for as a visual reference! I was wondering if you have ever worked with FRP and thought id ask that if you do in the near future that i would love to watch a crash course on how the process goes installing FRP and Trim!
Yes I've worked with FRP. It's really simple. It glues right onto the drywall very easily. I just bid another restaurant I can go into detail if I get it. Appreciate the comment!!
I guess we do our steel studs “wrong” in Oregon. Cause every job I’ve been on we’ve used them framing screws with the wafer head. I’ve only been learning how to tape for less than a year, but I’ve never heard the tapers say the rock was out of whack.
Yeah bro💪 I think the old way was to crimp your studs but the codes are more strict now and we just would get away with it. I have seen old framing videos from this British old dude and I think he did that plus he slid the studs into place and drywalled at the same time.
Hey Chris! New watcher and steel stud user. Love your videos, learned a lot already. Questions: Furring a basement and not sure how to secure both sides of your studs to the tracks when the steel wall is against an existing concrete wall? (Similar to your back wall there). Awesome video's.👏
Yes, so we leave 1/2" to 1" space between the concrete and your furring wall. There is a tool called a stud crimper that we use to crimp the backsides and sometimes after the crimp you can get a screw through.
@@ConstructionKronies Stud crimper, great! And do you install a corner stud deep into the basement corner for the floater to grab? We are planning to spray foam when framing is finished. Thanks for your advise and guidance Chris.
@@geraldt3670 If your going for the spray foam I would think about putting hard corners but remember to insulate the gap inside before closing it off. Just have some r12 or semi rigid handy for that.
Loving your content, thank you so much in advance. What is the best method when building a stud wall from one roof eave, across the ridge to the other eave? In other words how do you create a flat top track? Its a long wall of about 15meters. Would appreciate your guidance!
Super man thanks! If I understood you correctly, what you need to do it use flat stock or cut stud with 1-1/2" min flaps to screw or shoot in as clips. Then screw the track to the clips.
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks mate! Do you have a link to a video explaining this in more detail by any chance? I'm a novice to steel framing, and your videos are very helpful :)
Walls that are below tbar have clips that slip over the grid for you to screw the top track into. The drywall will finish 1/4"-3/8" below the grid and finished with tearaway bead. Remember, those clips do not get screwed into the grid. I've had guys say the job specification is to have tbar way above the wall, well some walls have to attach to it or go up to underside of structure. You can't just have a bunch of walls under tbar that don't attach to something, it's absurd. If the client is asking for something like that you have to tell them they have to design and tell you how they want the walls the braced. Remember, tbar is the ceiling and needs to close off the walls.
Yes bro, face the studs in the direction you pull your centers, that tells the drywallers which way to go. We always screw the softside in first then the hard side. Think of the stud like an arrow hard side facing out! Does that make sense?
I’m a wood framer and wanna build some walls and lunch room for a warehouse , but I’m puzzled on the freestanding walls . Should I leave bracing on top of walls to hold walls framing moving . How do the walls not move when these big doors shut when there is a 20x20 room with no ceiling ?
Yeah, you for sure need some sort of bracing. I get it, I came from wood framing, it's weird to have these braces, why not just use wood or throw a ceiling in. You can brace across the corners but the best braces are run back to something structural or the deck.
If you need the top to be level use a line laser to set your elevation. The important thing here is to make sure you have a clean line at the top with your drywall. Also in this situation here the walls are above the ceiling. I am installing tbar at 9' and the wall is 10'-1/2" so it doesn't matter. What matters is that 1/2" space you give it end to end. If it has to be level then take your elevation from the high side.
Yeah I know unfortunately the company didn't make it. I thought it was a great platform but they didn't stick it out long enough. You can email me chris@constructionkronies.com and I can set up a zoom call. It's going to be busy busy until next week.
Yes we always cut the top off in order to keep the knockouts lined up for carrying channel. Sometimes in headers we will measure down from the first knockout then up. In bulkheads we don't use channel so.you can cut from anywhere.
Screwed studs? WRONG, it kicks out the sheet rock, use the crimper. long, two-handled crimper makes the surface flat so the sheet rock is flat, not bulging out at he top and bottom, , , total mess.
Huh? That makes no sense at all. The screws are wafer head and do not bulge out the board whatsoever. Your telling me you crimp everything? Yikes what a mess that would be. Crimps don't hold after all the trades get in there nothing would be on center anymore. We crimp only when an impact can't fit or you can't reach properly.
What country are you from? Just curious, we would never ever ever get away with crimping in commercial here in Canada. Plus I'm not wrong, I tape and drywall everything and I've never had the screws bulge the sheets out in my 26 years of doing it.
@@thomasgronek6469 cool man. You know this whole thing, I would love to talk more about. Do you lay down your sheets or stand them up? Do you screw the end studs in or just crimp? What types of projects do you do? And I know we can only crimp light gauge so how do you feel about 20 gauge and higher? Do you use screws then?
No, never purlins, we will attach track to them but not drywall. We will use stud or furring bar, angle and bracing with wire. Check out my soffits playlist it will show you.
I'm sorry my man, PalTap is no longer available. They launched just as the pandemic hit and didn't make it. I'm trying to clean up the links. Send me an email to chris@constructionkronies.com. and we can set up a zoom call.
Access the latest in construction video right here: goo.gl/wSSry6
More videos like this please! I like watching the work done then a voice over. Very informative!
You got it! We have a whole bunch of new material!!
I wonder what @Bailey Metal Products Limited thinks of the video? #Bailey We totally need a factory tour!!! Great product!
Always informative Thanks!
Welcome bro thanks for dropping a comment!!!
Hi Chris! New watcher here. I work in the field, and I'm starting to learn how to draft wall sections. Do you think you'd be able to do a video explaining a steel framing wall section? Thanks!
O yes 100% I can. I will do a live stream tomorrow (Sunday Jan 29) and will include a section on that and cut it out after or I'll put a time stamp in the pinned comment for you.
Hey Kronie! Love your videos! I am a new hire estimator and these videos are great for as a visual reference! I was wondering if you have ever worked with FRP and thought id ask that if you do in the near future that i would love to watch a crash course on how the process goes installing FRP and Trim!
Yes I've worked with FRP. It's really simple. It glues right onto the drywall very easily. I just bid another restaurant I can go into detail if I get it. Appreciate the comment!!
I guess we do our steel studs “wrong” in Oregon. Cause every job I’ve been on we’ve used them framing screws with the wafer head. I’ve only been learning how to tape for less than a year, but I’ve never heard the tapers say the rock was out of whack.
Yeah bro💪 I think the old way was to crimp your studs but the codes are more strict now and we just would get away with it. I have seen old framing videos from this British old dude and I think he did that plus he slid the studs into place and drywalled at the same time.
Good one as usual👍👍👍
Thanks my good man!!
Do you put anything between the studs to secure it?
We usually install carrying channel every 4 feet through the knockouts. In the corners we use floater studs and tie them into the drywall.
Hey Chris! New watcher and steel stud user. Love your videos, learned a lot already. Questions: Furring a basement and not sure how to secure both sides of your studs to the tracks when the steel wall is against an existing concrete wall? (Similar to your back wall there). Awesome video's.👏
Yes, so we leave 1/2" to 1" space between the concrete and your furring wall. There is a tool called a stud crimper that we use to crimp the backsides and sometimes after the crimp you can get a screw through.
@@ConstructionKronies Stud crimper, great! And do you install a corner stud deep into the basement corner for the floater to grab? We are planning to spray foam when framing is finished. Thanks for your advise and guidance Chris.
@@geraldt3670 If your going for the spray foam I would think about putting hard corners but remember to insulate the gap inside before closing it off. Just have some r12 or semi rigid handy for that.
@@ConstructionKronies 🤜🤛 Thanks Chris!
Kronies 🔥
Sc, sc, scu, scu, Scully!!!! My man!
Loving your content, thank you so much in advance. What is the best method when building a stud wall from one roof eave, across the ridge to the other eave? In other words how do you create a flat top track? Its a long wall of about 15meters. Would appreciate your guidance!
Super man thanks! If I understood you correctly, what you need to do it use flat stock or cut stud with 1-1/2" min flaps to screw or shoot in as clips. Then screw the track to the clips.
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks mate! Do you have a link to a video explaining this in more detail by any chance? I'm a novice to steel framing, and your videos are very helpful :)
This video here I explain the clips ruclips.net/video/Jjt-7oVCqIs/видео.html
How would you brace free-standing wall if you have t-bars installed above?
Walls that are below tbar have clips that slip over the grid for you to screw the top track into. The drywall will finish 1/4"-3/8" below the grid and finished with tearaway bead. Remember, those clips do not get screwed into the grid. I've had guys say the job specification is to have tbar way above the wall, well some walls have to attach to it or go up to underside of structure. You can't just have a bunch of walls under tbar that don't attach to something, it's absurd. If the client is asking for something like that you have to tell them they have to design and tell you how they want the walls the braced. Remember, tbar is the ceiling and needs to close off the walls.
when you are building a wall and filling in your studs which way do the studs face ? thanks
Yes bro, face the studs in the direction you pull your centers, that tells the drywallers which way to go. We always screw the softside in first then the hard side. Think of the stud like an arrow hard side facing out! Does that make sense?
I’m a wood framer and wanna build some walls and lunch room for a warehouse , but I’m puzzled on the freestanding walls . Should I leave bracing on top of walls to hold walls framing moving . How do the walls not move when these big doors shut when there is a 20x20 room with no ceiling ?
Yeah, you for sure need some sort of bracing. I get it, I came from wood framing, it's weird to have these braces, why not just use wood or throw a ceiling in. You can brace across the corners but the best braces are run back to something structural or the deck.
how do you know the top track is level? measuring off the floor can be risky right? highs and lows in the concrete
If you need the top to be level use a line laser to set your elevation. The important thing here is to make sure you have a clean line at the top with your drywall. Also in this situation here the walls are above the ceiling. I am installing tbar at 9' and the wall is 10'-1/2" so it doesn't matter. What matters is that 1/2" space you give it end to end. If it has to be level then take your elevation from the high side.
Can you do acoustical cielings
Yes, those videos are coming soon. I have 4 tbar jobs to do here right away.
Paltap not working bro
Yeah I know unfortunately the company didn't make it. I thought it was a great platform but they didn't stick it out long enough. You can email me chris@constructionkronies.com and I can set up a zoom call. It's going to be busy busy until next week.
Do you measure from the bottom of the vertical stud and cut the top off to keep holes in line for electric or pipes Just starting out with this
Yes we always cut the top off in order to keep the knockouts lined up for carrying channel. Sometimes in headers we will measure down from the first knockout then up. In bulkheads we don't use channel so.you can cut from anywhere.
its hardly free standing its attached to the floor and the side wall (trolled as requested)
Ahhh haha yeah bro!!!!
Screwed studs? WRONG, it kicks out the sheet rock, use the crimper. long, two-handled crimper makes the surface flat so the sheet rock is flat, not bulging out at he top and bottom, , , total mess.
Huh? That makes no sense at all. The screws are wafer head and do not bulge out the board whatsoever. Your telling me you crimp everything? Yikes what a mess that would be. Crimps don't hold after all the trades get in there nothing would be on center anymore. We crimp only when an impact can't fit or you can't reach properly.
@@ConstructionKronies well good for you, it's still wrong
What country are you from? Just curious, we would never ever ever get away with crimping in commercial here in Canada. Plus I'm not wrong, I tape and drywall everything and I've never had the screws bulge the sheets out in my 26 years of doing it.
@@ConstructionKronies I do commercial UNION construction in the U.S.
@@thomasgronek6469 cool man. You know this whole thing, I would love to talk more about. Do you lay down your sheets or stand them up? Do you screw the end studs in or just crimp? What types of projects do you do? And I know we can only crimp light gauge so how do you feel about 20 gauge and higher? Do you use screws then?
Ur a fucking life saver
Awesome man!! Cheers 🍻
When you have 10 foot ceilings, do you use purlins for your sheet rock to hit at 4 foot increments?
No, never purlins, we will attach track to them but not drywall. We will use stud or furring bar, angle and bracing with wire. Check out my soffits playlist it will show you.
Trying to use PalTap, but when I try to click "next" after typing in my problem it won't do anything
I'm sorry my man, PalTap is no longer available. They launched just as the pandemic hit and didn't make it. I'm trying to clean up the links. Send me an email to chris@constructionkronies.com. and we can set up a zoom call.
Best channel ever, thanks for the content
Thanks so much! That's great!
your paltap link does not work
Yeah sorry man PalTap went out of business I need to clean up those links. Send me an email chris.konkle@gmail.com and I can help you