Bocchi switches! They're supposed to a cheaper Zaku color swap from Tecsee. I thought this was a PP (Polypropylene) plate (not PolyCarbonate) like the Hi75. I'm glad they added an extra Electrostatic protection film (looks like it's PET on the back of the case foam)... my Hi75 did not have a film so you HAVE to use the case foam to prevent shorting since the board is SOO flexy and the depth/space in the case is not huge. Is the typing angle similar to the Hi75? The big rubber feet on the back of the Hi75 really helped to increase the typing angle and make it toward my preference of ~7 degrees.
i'm on the "most people" category, never bought any mechanical keyboard, and yes i can say this is exactly what i want from my budget china board. i use akko cream black + XDA keycaps, i don't even know what's great or not. But for me this feels & sounds great.
Hi, do you think the plate is the same with hi75? I'm really digging this but might change the plate for hi75 fr4 plates. Let know of you have the time.
deos the gmmk keycaps come in black too? alos is there an interference with the boards pcb due the switch configuration and the profile of the keycaps? im new, sorry for the question
Is it safe to remove the clear film? I remember watching a vid that said it's for protecting the board from shorting with the metal case. I don't know if true tho.
Yeah it's advisable to not remove the plastic; Though it's unlikely for the board to short circ since manufactured boards these days are very good quality but the plastic films are there to offer just a lil' extra protection if ever any static like incident happens
Hi merk, I am interested in buying the tx stab plate mount, unfortunately in your video I can't see if you needed to tune the wires, I would like to know if it was necessary. thank you for your videos they have helped me a lot
Hello! Thanks for watching the videos, means alot. Ah yes, I did cut the part where I checked the wires from this VOD but I recall the wires not needing any tweaks and being pretty straight out of the box, no need for any tweaking. Just straight lubing and that's it. TX Stabilizers have been (at least for me) super solid and haven't failed me yet. Hope that helps!
For ease of building and ease of modding, the M1W is definitely better for tearing down since it uses simple JST cables for the battery and daughterboard. Whereas this Hi8 is a bit more complex to open up because of the risk of snapping ribbon cables for the daughterboard and rotary encoder. Looks wise I personally prefer the simpler and more minimal look of the Hi8 because I'm not a huge fan of the gold side accent pieces of the M1W. Sound wise, of course personal preference, but I really like the thockiness that you can get out of the Hi8, though it can sound kinda thin because of all the flex cuts. For a fuller sound though the M1W doesn't have any flex cuts so that'll be the way to go if you do want that fuller sound. Overall though, minus the slight headache it is to open this thing up to do some mods (not like it needs it anyways), I'd pick the Hi8 because it feels more like a complete product Cuz the wireless functionality of the M1W just feels more like an afterthought because of the switch being hidden under a keycap. This Hi8 has reliable external physical switches you can toggle for the wireless on/off. Hope this helps!
did you sell this barebone leobog hi8 to me? because in Indonesia is also out of srock everywhere, and i want to buy this barebone, anyone if have this barebone leobog hi8 black or white colour please reply this comment
I would say that would have to depend. Sound wise you can achieve pretty much the same sound between the both of them. As for ease of building, I'd definitely give it to the Hi75 over this Hi8 because of less things plugged into back of the PCB. Looks wise though, I personally prefer this Hi8 over the Hi75. Looks way cleaner and more minimalist. It all comes down to personal preference at the end of the day after all :)
sir, if you don't mind, i want that keyboard ( if you want to give it away that keyboard 'to me' ) I will be veeery very thankful by the way I am from Indonesia. I need the keyboard that you build because my membrane keyboard M-Tech with price only 3 usd is broken, with problem: disconnects connect, and very hard to press. I ask about this " with your permission" of course. That's all sir. Thank you. Have a good carrier on RUclips! I subscribe and always likes your video. Thank you
5:32 stock
19:35 "modded"
Bocchi switches! They're supposed to a cheaper Zaku color swap from Tecsee.
I thought this was a PP (Polypropylene) plate (not PolyCarbonate) like the Hi75.
I'm glad they added an extra Electrostatic protection film (looks like it's PET on the back of the case foam)... my Hi75 did not have a film so you HAVE to use the case foam to prevent shorting since the board is SOO flexy and the depth/space in the case is not huge.
Is the typing angle similar to the Hi75? The big rubber feet on the back of the Hi75 really helped to increase the typing angle and make it toward my preference of ~7 degrees.
i'm on the "most people" category, never bought any mechanical keyboard, and yes i can say this is exactly what i want from my budget china board. i use akko cream black + XDA keycaps, i don't even know what's great or not. But for me this feels & sounds great.
The Bocchi switches give a more clacky sound. Surprised you didnt go for more thock sounding switch?
The AI-generated face is so flawless, that they included a generic RUclipsr's long-sleeved jacket.
Agreed, also the AI generated voice is almost unnoticable
😂😂😂
Wtf fr??? I thought this vid was real af xD
The difference in sound is very minimal.. What if you also put the stock IXPE foam back on top of your own PE foam? What would that do ?
this is the coolest keyboard I've ever seen
im contemplatin between getting this hi8 or just straight up going for Neo65
Hi, do you think the plate is the same with hi75? I'm really digging this but might change the plate for hi75 fr4 plates. Let know of you have the time.
Hi, is the software for this keyboard safe to use? Does anyone have a safe link for it?
What switch?? Name please.. where did you buy it?
Nice vid, what was the total cost of the board?
deos the gmmk keycaps come in black too? alos is there an interference with the boards pcb due the switch configuration and the profile of the keycaps? im new, sorry for the question
Hi, can you tell me about the keycaps used in this review?
Where to buy here in the Philippines the shopee link in the description is sold out.
Hi I was just wondering where you purchased this and if so can u please send me the link
How to remove the ribbon cable?
where did you get those switches?
brother can you share the link for your type c cable
Hi, Markeebs! How does this keyboard compare to the VGE VXE75? Which one do you think is better overall?
May I know what is this keycap name please?
What is the angle of this keyboard, i always used only adjustable feet boards so i’m scared to buy hi8 because if angle
which sounds better to you? this keyboard or yunzii al66?
i ve got the sk71 and looking for an alternative to have the extra function keys, how comparable is this ?
Hello! tell pls what mouse a y using? thx!!
Whenever I pull a keycap out from this keyboard, the switches seems to be pulled off together with it, is this normal? It’s my first diy keyboard
Is it safe to remove the clear film? I remember watching a vid that said it's for protecting the board from shorting with the metal case. I don't know if true tho.
Yeah it's advisable to not remove the plastic;
Though it's unlikely for the board to short circ since manufactured boards these days are very good quality but the plastic films are there to offer just a lil' extra protection if ever any static like incident happens
can you compare HI8 with HI75 please
Does anyone have a link for the keycaps?
Hello, I am planning to install a similar keyboard.
I have a question about PE foam - what thickness of foam is best for a keyboard? Regards
For hotswap keyboards, 0.5mm PE Foam is good
1mm could be too thick and would make switches not sit properly.
Hi merk, I am interested in buying the tx stab plate mount, unfortunately in your video I can't see if you needed to tune the wires, I would like to know if it was necessary.
thank you for your videos they have helped me a lot
Hello! Thanks for watching the videos, means alot.
Ah yes, I did cut the part where I checked the wires from this VOD but I recall the wires not needing any tweaks and being pretty straight out of the box, no need for any tweaking. Just straight lubing and that's it. TX Stabilizers have been (at least for me) super solid and haven't failed me yet.
Hope that helps!
Too bad no PC mount stabilizer holes!
great video you remove pet film under pcb or not ?
No. Unless you wanna short your pcb
@@mikediezel0923 you don't remove pet film under case foam and under pe foam mod ?
@@NpNp24165 just the one under the case foam/ under the pcb
@@mikediezel0923 Thanks bro.
Is this basically an Aluminum Aula F75?
Seems like it! I was thinking the same thing...
The TX stabs you used, are they the 1.6mm? Thanks!
They’re TX plate mount stabilizers, not PCB mounted, so they’ll work on any board that takes plate mounted stabs :)
What keyboard is at the top of the screen?
it looks like a yunzii al66 to me
This vs M1W, what are your thoughts?
For ease of building and ease of modding, the M1W is definitely better for tearing down since it uses simple JST cables for the battery and daughterboard.
Whereas this Hi8 is a bit more complex to open up because of the risk of snapping ribbon cables for the daughterboard and rotary encoder.
Looks wise I personally prefer the simpler and more minimal look of the Hi8 because I'm not a huge fan of the gold side accent pieces of the M1W.
Sound wise, of course personal preference, but I really like the thockiness that you can get out of the Hi8, though it can sound kinda thin because of all the flex cuts.
For a fuller sound though the M1W doesn't have any flex cuts so that'll be the way to go if you do want that fuller sound.
Overall though, minus the slight headache it is to open this thing up to do some mods (not like it needs it anyways), I'd pick the Hi8 because it feels more like a complete product
Cuz the wireless functionality of the M1W just feels more like an afterthought because of the switch being hidden under a keycap. This Hi8 has reliable external physical switches you can toggle for the wireless on/off.
Hope this helps!
@@Merkeebs Thank yor answering, I was thinking about getting a Hi8 because of how It looks and to try out the flex-cut pcb on a alu board.
Can’t find the hi8 in stock anywhere
Whatgeek have them in stock
@@cormacc7 yeah snagged one a week ago 🙌🏻
Nice vid mate
The HI-75 is Cast Aluminium, whereas the HI-8 is CNC
did you sell this barebone leobog hi8 to me? because in Indonesia is also out of srock everywhere, and i want to buy this barebone, anyone if have this barebone leobog hi8 black or white colour please reply this comment
merkeebs, is this better than hi75
I would say that would have to depend. Sound wise you can achieve pretty much the same sound between the both of them.
As for ease of building, I'd definitely give it to the Hi75 over this Hi8 because of less things plugged into back of the PCB.
Looks wise though, I personally prefer this Hi8 over the Hi75. Looks way cleaner and more minimalist.
It all comes down to personal preference at the end of the day after all :)
@@Merkeebs thanks 🙏
5:31 19:34
How much is this in dollar lol
sir, if you don't mind, i want that keyboard ( if you want to give it away that keyboard 'to me' ) I will be veeery very thankful by the way I am from Indonesia. I need the keyboard that you build because my membrane keyboard M-Tech with price only 3 usd is broken, with problem: disconnects connect, and very hard to press. I ask about this " with your permission" of course. That's all sir. Thank you. Have a good carrier on RUclips! I subscribe and always likes your video. Thank you