Great tutorial on both your DPFE diagnostic videos. After the check engine light came on, I did get a P1405 code on my 96 Explorer saying the upper hose was off. I did find it that it had come loose. Placing it back on, warming up the engine, the check engine light did not go off. Upon testing, almost seemed to spec. I did the EGR vacuum regulator test with my finger over the air intake and the engine would almost die. Engine off, the signal wire was at 1.0v. Ground at 0.0v and reference wire at 5.0v. Unplugging the connector, the signal wire was at 5.0v. But still the check engine light stayed on. With engine on, I plugged the EGR vacuum regulator again and voltage would go up but only to 3.6v and not the 4.0v or close to as the engine sputtered. I couldn't tell what my RPM's were since I didn't have an assistant but throttling up at the throttle body, I could only get the mulitmeter to read 4.6v and not 5.0v. Check engine light still on. I'm guessing that even with the increase in voltages, it wasn't enough so I'll order a new DPFE and I expect it to do make the check engine light go off. The other issue, at the same time is the IACV howl. I think that should be fixed now. Electrical specs upon testing were fine as well. I cleaned it and for awhile there it worked fine. This is with cool weather, ie mid 60's. But finally got it to howl again so the new IACV is on. Big mahalo nui loa for your video.
Thanks Joe! Might add on the single canister AFT with Cummins (Hilite) dosing system vs Bosch Denoxtronic that the DEF pump doesn't always run at shutdown. If DPF outlet temp isn't high, it doesn't run and system just naturally bleeds off pressure. If temp is high, pump can run up to ten minutes to circulate DEF to cool DEF doser. Being a two chamber sensor, I've just assumed DPF outlet pressure is referenced to atmospheric pressure and maybe a passage plugs up causing vacuum in sensor chamber as exhaust gas cools or diaphram gets cracked. Its been years, but I remember opening one up and the circuit board was covered in a white semifluid substance that I assumed acted as heat sink or cooling medium that might cause issues with circuit board. The fact that they have increased tube diameter multiple times through the years makes me wonder if they have tried to increase volume in order to combat condensation rates with the temp and pressure changes. Regardless, they live in a harsh environment and failures will happen.
Good vid, but when the dpfe was reading 5v you knew straight away that there was a fault and that it should be 1v with ign or at idle. But HOW do you know what sensors are supposed to be at certain times/ conditions? How did you know that the dpfe sensor doesn't work the other way around: 5v at idle and 1v at other times? You were bang on about "what's the point in testing of you don't know what to expect". That's the problem I have. I dont know what sensors should read at certain times.
Hey Fox Brendon, I'd like to call that experience. Start watching known good PID information. Start datalogging good cars. Start watching for trends. This helps you to establish that. Of course it's impossible to always know everything. But it's good to at least have some idea of what good should look like! Mike Becker, Senior Technical Instructor
Another question my 01 vic surges a little around 40mph could the dpfe be the problem the egr is clean from my past work, were it bolts onto intake the hole was almost stopped up but not now...so could the dpfe be the problem, i drove with the egr vacuum hose unplugged and iy seemed to help a lot...
I have the P01401 code, I have tested the system, I use my finger on the EVR, I got my rough idle,I have 12 V going to my EVR Solenoid and I grounded the EVR and got my rough idleI too, my EGR valve is working properly have no obstruction with my vacuum hoses. I replaced my upstream and downstream vacuum hoses to my DPEF I checked resistance to my DPEF it’s operational I checked my leads to my DPEF I have a good ground I have 5 V---- but on my signal wire I have continuous 5 V with the lead unplugged and plugged in to the DPEF with the ignition on and also the voltage does not change when I bring the engine to higher RPM I went ahead and replaced the DPEF and got no change in condition, engine light is still on and still have a PO1401 code and your video does not describe how to correct or repair the signal wire High voltage problem
Sgt Tech made me click the subscribe video, Capt. Hicks' VVT (Verbal Valve Regulator) is throwing a code with my PCM (Excessive Intermittent Pulsewidth) causing a command signal to hit unsubscribe.
Has anybody had any problems with a dpfe sensor on a early 2000s crown vic 4.6 litre and if so how did the vehicle act while driving it... Mine is an 2001 vic....
@@GoTechTraining No, I am an old man 77 and trying to get through inspection on my old 98 4.6 Triton. I I have no idea what I am doing to analyze this. I am 77 years old and just trying to get this truck to pass emission until June and I will take it off the road. It runs great, it has no stalls, it idles perfectly but it failed emission. I do not have or have access to a handheld vacuum to put on the EGR. And I am getting a codes PO401 AND PO455. I do not have a vaccum pump. Harbor Freight sells a brake bleeder pump but I don't know.
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Great tutorial on both your DPFE diagnostic videos. After the check engine light came on, I did get a P1405 code on my 96 Explorer saying the upper hose was off. I did find it that it had come loose. Placing it back on, warming up the engine, the check engine light did not go off. Upon testing, almost seemed to spec. I did the EGR vacuum regulator test with my finger over the air intake and the engine would almost die. Engine off, the signal wire was at 1.0v. Ground at 0.0v and reference wire at 5.0v. Unplugging the connector, the signal wire was at 5.0v. But still the check engine light stayed on.
With engine on, I plugged the EGR vacuum regulator again and voltage would go up but only to 3.6v and not the 4.0v or close to as the engine sputtered. I couldn't tell what my RPM's were since I didn't have an assistant but throttling up at the throttle body, I could only get the mulitmeter to read 4.6v and not 5.0v. Check engine light still on. I'm guessing that even with the increase in voltages, it wasn't enough so I'll order a new DPFE and I expect it to do make the check engine light go off.
The other issue, at the same time is the IACV howl. I think that should be fixed now. Electrical specs upon testing were fine as well. I cleaned it and for awhile there it worked fine. This is with cool weather, ie mid 60's. But finally got it to howl again so the new IACV is on.
Big mahalo nui loa for your video.
Hi Darryl, thanks for watching!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Thanks Joe! Might add on the single canister AFT with Cummins (Hilite) dosing system vs Bosch Denoxtronic that the DEF pump doesn't always run at shutdown. If DPF outlet temp isn't high, it doesn't run and system just naturally bleeds off pressure. If temp is high, pump can run up to ten minutes to circulate DEF to cool DEF doser. Being a two chamber sensor, I've just assumed DPF outlet pressure is referenced to atmospheric pressure and maybe a passage plugs up causing vacuum in sensor chamber as exhaust gas cools or diaphram gets cracked. Its been years, but I remember opening one up and the circuit board was covered in a white semifluid substance that I assumed acted as heat sink or cooling medium that might cause issues with circuit board. The fact that they have increased tube diameter multiple times through the years makes me wonder if they have tried to increase volume in order to combat condensation rates with the temp and pressure changes. Regardless, they live in a harsh environment and failures will happen.
Excellent teaching and repair session. Most comprehensive Ive seen on p401 EGR dhpe problems.
Thanks for watching!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Good vid, but when the dpfe was reading 5v you knew straight away that there was a fault and that it should be 1v with ign or at idle. But HOW do you know what sensors are supposed to be at certain times/ conditions? How did you know that the dpfe sensor doesn't work the other way around: 5v at idle and 1v at other times?
You were bang on about "what's the point in testing of you don't know what to expect". That's the problem I have. I dont know what sensors should read at certain times.
Hey Fox Brendon, I'd like to call that experience. Start watching known good PID information. Start datalogging good cars. Start watching for trends. This helps you to establish that. Of course it's impossible to always know everything. But it's good to at least have some idea of what good should look like!
Mike Becker, Senior Technical Instructor
Another question my 01 vic surges a little around 40mph could the dpfe be the problem the egr is clean from my past work, were it bolts onto intake the hole was almost stopped up but not now...so could the dpfe be the problem, i drove with the egr vacuum hose unplugged and iy seemed to help a lot...
I have the P01401 code, I have tested the system, I use my finger on the EVR, I got my rough idle,I have 12 V going to my EVR Solenoid and I grounded the EVR and got my rough idleI too, my EGR valve is working properly have no obstruction with my vacuum hoses. I replaced my upstream and downstream vacuum hoses to my DPEF I checked resistance to my DPEF it’s operational I checked my leads to my DPEF I have a good ground I have 5 V---- but on my signal wire I have continuous 5 V with the lead unplugged and plugged in to the DPEF with the ignition on and also the voltage does not change when I bring the engine to higher RPM I went ahead and replaced the DPEF and got no change in condition, engine light is still on and still have a PO1401 code and your video does not describe how to correct or repair the signal wire High voltage problem
Sgt Tech made me click the subscribe video, Capt. Hicks' VVT (Verbal Valve Regulator) is throwing a code with my PCM (Excessive Intermittent Pulsewidth) causing a command signal to hit unsubscribe.
Job well done men job well done indeed!Keep it up.
+Joseph Tucci Thanks Joseph! We will keep it up! Thanks for watching
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
Has anybody had any problems with a dpfe sensor on a early 2000s crown vic 4.6 litre and if so how did the vehicle act while driving it... Mine is an 2001 vic....
I have a ford 3 wire. Replacement plug is black. The ford colors are brown. Yellow. Black. What color is pin one . Color pin 2 and 3.
Hey Marlin, i'm going to need to know what year and what model to get you accurate info.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Drink every time they say 'right'
To much nonsense talk that doesn’t pertain to the video title. T-shirt give away, Wells promotional crap, just a waist of my time!
Boring
Sorry to hear that Ronnie! Did you learn anything?
Mike Becker, Senior Technical Instructor
@@GoTechTraining No, I am an old man 77 and trying to get through inspection on my old 98 4.6 Triton. I I have no idea what I am doing to analyze this. I am 77 years old and just trying to get this truck to pass emission until June and I will take it off the road. It runs great, it has no stalls, it idles perfectly but it failed emission. I do not have or have access to a handheld vacuum to put on the EGR. And I am getting a codes PO401 AND PO455. I do not have a vaccum pump. Harbor Freight sells a brake bleeder pump but I don't know.
@@GoTechTraining Mostly covering your ass with the customer.
Where's the DPFE located on 4.2L 05 Ford freestar? Is it on the side of the EGR valve?