Small addition to this video, if you lose your components, you can remove the floor/hull and get them back. Better yet, what I often do at stations (singleplayer) is move my entire crew in the station and keep my engineer/mechanic to remove the parts of the ship that hide door components, which allows me to connect/disconnect them for other purposes. This way, you can create a massive water drain system that connects certain doors to a control panel (lever system) from the nav-room which allows you to connect a series of doors to be force opened, including the ballast tanks and use your strongest pumps to drain excess water REALLY quickly. Take the Orca 2 for example. The bottom left and bottom right rooms only have small pumps, which isn't enough. Put a portable pump in each room with the right detector setup, and you've taken care of those. Connect a lever system to open up all doors mid-deck rooms that connect to the ballast tanks so you can force drain the water in your sub the second the ship is fixed. This way your ship won't sink to the Abyss and stay there, you can recover MUCH quicker. Add in a fix foam setup for your other rooms and you can basically take a full beating twice before you are in any real danger.
I knew I needed an AND component but couldn't figure out all the other pre-made conditions from the game. Learning basics of how doors worked and you covering the auto doors with water measure immediately was perfect!
I've actually invented my very own door system that is definitely complicated but extremely useful. The doors will open automatically if water is not at 40% height in the room, and the door will always close after 2 seconds if you are dead, not right next to the door, or staying still. I also combined the 40% part of the wiring so that the duct block in the room will only open if the room is 40% full of water, that way you don't have that really annoying water problem where water literally leaks everywhere all over instantly, which causes salt bulb plants to explode from the smallest holes.
@@cideltacommand7169 I have no idea what you're on about, the water detectors are immune to all damage (by default fyi) and can ONLY be messed with via griefing. And I have no idea how this wasn't clear to you, but ALL the water detectors do for the door is cancel the motion detector's function of opening it when the water is too high, it can still be opened manually... Also for the duct blocks it should be very obvious how that works, the water fills up too fast/too high the duct opens...
if a component is badly placed, you can disconnect it using wrench for chain connecting, you can do it with just one NOT component, connected between OR signals that collect all those from detectors and AND that connects it with final signal from human detector (hopefully it is understandable?) other than that, this video is not bad for newbie engineers who want to be helpful
For anyone who's late to this video learning about doors, I came up with something similar that instead has doors open by default. When there's water AND no person, CLOSE (else, do nothing) When there's no water OR (blank), OPEN (else, do nothing) So. Water detector has output 1, false output 0. Wired to the NOT and AND. Motion sensor has output blank, false output 1. Wired to the AND. NOT is not continuous. Wired to the OR. AND has output 0, false output blank. Wired to the door. OR has output 1, false output blank. Wired to the door.
Do you know how to build a door that you have to open manually but closes automatically after a set time interval (the door needs to stay open after opening manualy and is still able to be closed with the button)?
This is a pretty common circuit found on doors in a lot of the vanilla subs, and is also part of the default assemblies available in the sub editor. However, if you want to build one of these mid-campaign or without the editor, here's how: 1) You'll need a motion sensor, a NOT component, a delay component, an AND component, and 5 wires. 2) Place the components together in close proximity to the door, I usually put them in the top corner. 3) Open the door and place the motion sensor at the top of the door frame, and configure it for humans only. You can also adjust the sensing range as you see fit. 4) Set the delay component to 3 seconds, or whatever you want for a delay between someone leaving the sensing range and the door self-closing. 5) Wire the output of the motion sensor to the input of the NOT component, and wire the "state out" output of the door to the input of the delay component. 6) Wire the outputs of the NOT and delay components to the inputs of the AND component. 7) Wire the output of the AND component to the "toggle state" input of the door, making sure that the "false output" of the AND component is blank. Here's how it works: When you open the door, this starts the timer on the delay component. If the timer runs out and there is nobody in the sensing range of the motion sensor anymore, this triggers the circuit to toggle the door closed. If these conditions are not met (someone is in range, or door is closed), then nothing happens. I hope this helps!
How would you arrange it to take sensor inputs from both sides of the door? I have been trying to get it to work, but as soon as I try to chain the and components together the motion sensing on the door stops working. It will work if I only use one sensor, but if I link two sensors to one not component, the door will open when flooded, and if I include an or component, the whole thing stops working again.
Great video man! One question, How would you go about wiring, if you placed on each side of the door all the mentioned detectors in the video and have all of them operate the same door?
Is there a way to make a hatch act like a duct, so that it opens with a water sensor, but also opens with human input as an override? So far I've only been able to make it open only if there is water present.
An OR component would probably accomplish what you're looking for. Attach the button for the hatch and output of the water sensor to the OR component, then attach that to the input of the hatch. Then if either one is activated the hatch will open. I think that'll work, I haven't tried it though.
I don't know if this'll help or not, but the "and" component is looking for 2 positive inputs, and the "not" component outputs a negative signal, doors open on positive signals and close on negative signals. There's also a setting for the "not" component to make it constantly output a positive signal whenever it isn't getting its own positive signal that it converts into a negative one. The "and" component outputs a positive signal only if both of its inputs receive a positive input from something. You can change what the output signal is on some components, like the "and" component. 1 or higher is a positive output (you won't be needing anything higher than 1 unless you're using something with a specific number requirement, such as a pump's "set target level" input), and 0 is a negative output.
does this still work for you? I can't seem to get it to work. EDIT: So I got it to work but only if I have one sensor for each AND, is there a way to have a water sensor and smoke sensor for both sides? (Note I tried an OR but it didn’t work for some reason even though it shouldn’t have changed the logic at all)
I'm having a problem if someone could help.... I've got it set up to where the door will stay closed if there is water.... but WILL NOT OPEN so if you're stuck in a room with water, you ain't getting out. Is there any solution, by chance?
Sorry for the delayed response! Your AND component probably has a zero in the false-condition output field, it should be empty. Otherwise, you can technically open the door manually, but the and component isn't satisfied and is sending a zero to the door's SET_STATE, which means that its going to shut the door milliseconds after you start to open it. It sounds like you're close, just delete everything from the false output. Let me know if that works!
Isn't it possible to not need the not gates the sensors are connected to if we just reverse the values of the detectors? (Detecting something = 0, Not Detecting = 1).
Yes, if you're using your own sensors. But if you're using the water detectors that are already installed on the ship, that would also screw with the pump and duct controls. Also if you're going back and adding more sensors or rewiring the circuit for some reason, having flipped the output of the sensors makes it much more difficult to troubleshoot visually
I have an issue where I will put down an lever, run it through and AND component, and no matter what I do it 100% overrides the door. If it's on, it's on, the door keeps making shutting sounds and won't. If it's off, the door won't open at all unless you disconnect it. Same thing with my water detectors automatically opening/shutting doors - I want them to OPEN the doors in flooded areas to let the water out, I don't want them to force the door closed so nobody can repair the room. Any idea how to make a lever open a door while pulled, but have no impact when not pulled?
I've been trying out the water detector door circuit you showed off but it doesn't seem to work on the current version of the game. Does anyone know what changed or how to fix it? I wire it the same but a couple of the components have additional functionality built in now and I don't know how this is affecting the circuit.
Nevermind, I had the AND gate of the water detection circuit set to a 0 as a FALSE output instead of leaving it blank. having the AND gates that connect direectly to the door set to blank for a false output (the default config) makes this work as seen in the video.
@@michaelbenson3943 have you tested it with a flooded sub? My friends and I tried a bunch of different combos if output states based off the circuit, and whenever water hit the detector it just freaked out. Either the door would lock open or closed. We could not get the door w/ buttons to open if the water detector was submerged. The AND gate output seemed to override the button. Only an external third button was able to work around this.
@@DragonGamer31 yes, I did this in the humpback, in the sub editor. I would blow a hole in the engine room and it works. You can't have the motion detector directly connected to the door. You need the delay circuit ( just go into the winterhalter in sub editor to see the circuit for the delayed close)
hello ive been trying to do a safety system and stumbled upon your video im having trouble with opening the door when theres water i dont know if the game patched something but pressing the button deosnt do anything ive looked at youre wiring a million times and compared it with mine the vanilla autodor with the NOT and AND from the water detection system all wired as seen on video right??
This video is great! But how do I have a door be open at all time unless there is water or monster but can still be opened manually to fix the situation once fixed the door goes back to the open
Easy! Add a new motion sensor in the door frame, and another pair of NOT and AND blocks, plus a switch and relay. Configure the motion sensor to detect monsters only, and wire it into the NOT block, and replace the motion sensor's connection to the original AND block with the output of the NOT block. Wire the output of this AND block to one input of the new AND block, and wire the output of the relays first channel to the other input. Wire the output of the switch to both the input of that first channel and he relays "set state" input, and wire the output of the new AND block to the doors "set_state" port, making sure that the false output of the AND block is blank. I'm doing this a in my head, but I'll check it as soon as I can get to a keyboard! Let me know if it works!
"spawn mudraptor cursor" into the F3 console should summon a mudraptor to wherever your mouse is when you hit Enter. If you spawn something that turns out to be a little harder to kill than expected, you can use the "killmonsters" command too
Throw a switch on the wall somewhere nearby (don't make it easy for traitors to find), and wire it into a Signal Check (SGN) component's signal_in port. Configure the SGN for a target signal of 1, a false output of 0, and leave the output blank. Then wire the signal_out from SGN block to your door's set_state port. If you did it right, then switch off = locked, switch on = normal operation. If you wire the switch directly to the door, when the switch is off, it sends a constant output of 0 and the door will stay closed. However, when the switch is on it will send a constant output of 1 and door will stay open, which is okay until the proverbial poop hits the fan (you don't want compartments taking on water with doors propped open). Using the signal check block to turn the 1 into a blank (aka "null") output will allow the door to operate normally.
If you want the doors to be impossible to open at all without a plasma cutter, you could use a switch and a wifi component for the controller, and a relay, a not component, and a wifi component for each door. Connect the switch's output to the signal_in of the wifi and make sure the wifi is channel not already being used. Then wire the signal_out of the other wifis to the relay's signal_1_in and the signal_in of the not component, and configure the wifi component to use the same channel as before. Wire the signal_out of the not component to the set_state of the relay, and configure the not component for continuous output. Then wire the signal_1_out of the relay to the door's set_state port,and you can now prevent the door from opening remotely! Here's how it works: first, because switches create a constant output, the switch's current state is broadcast to the wifi channel continuously. Any wifis on the channel will mirror this signal as their output. This signal is inverted by the not component, disabling the relay when the switch is on, and enabling it when the switch is off. When enabled, the same off-signal mirrored from the switch state is passed through the relay to the door's set_state control input. Technically, this circuit doesn't force the doors closed continuously, instead it sends the "close door" (or more accurately the "set door state to off/closed" command) 60 times per second. If someone tries to open it, the "open door" command is accepted, Andrew the door will start to open, but the "close door" will be received within 16 milliseconds and the door will close again.
I'm not sure why, but the door now locks when detecting water but I can't open it manually, it just immediately closes it again. Anyone know how to fix this?
It's hard to say without seeing the circuit... Can you take screenshots of all the connection panels and put them in an imgur album (or something similar)?
@@TheGamingNerd2022 I managed to fix it by using a relay instead of an AND. When I followed you video step by step on the Humpback door from the fabricator to the diving suits it was locking up and not manually allowing me to open door. I fixed this by disconnecting the motion detector from the door, connecting water detector to NOT, NOT to relay set state, motion detector to input_1, and output_1 to the door set state. Not sure why the AND method wasn't working for me. Think maybe it's because those doors don't have the AND NOT delay on them?
@@tonyzambone762 was having same problem but tried relay and still doesn't work. *Fixed. When door received 1 it open and 0 it closes. You want it to receive a null, s that it's not trying to close itself, it's just not automatically opening. By putting a signal component between the 'and' component and the door, and setting false reading to null that way when there is water the door receives no signal to open or close until you press a button to do so.
@The Gaming Nerd Hi I'm Devaudio, the creator of the Electrical Science Bubble. Someone commented on my Steam workshop that you were using my sub. Glad that someone else found it helpful! I did notice you created a derivative, and I'm perfectly happy for you to re-use it, create derivatives, make videos for youtube. Just please don't add a little bit to my creation and refer to it as ''this bubble of mine' without any credit given. So yes, please do use my creation to help people learn the sub editor, but pretty please could you give some sort of nod or attribution for the works of others that you use?
@@andremurillo7356 well catch) Soo do you have discord? And radmin vpn? Sorry this pingperfect.com/index.php/knowledgebase/376/Barotrauma--How-To-Add-Mods.html
bad advice. doors purpose is to keep floods contained. not to spread the flood. tip: if all doors are opened by motion detectors, there will be no safe place in the sub.
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
I made all my doors togglable to automatic, but put zero safety measures. This video made my life easier, thanks!
Small addition to this video, if you lose your components, you can remove the floor/hull and get them back. Better yet, what I often do at stations (singleplayer) is move my entire crew in the station and keep my engineer/mechanic to remove the parts of the ship that hide door components, which allows me to connect/disconnect them for other purposes. This way, you can create a massive water drain system that connects certain doors to a control panel (lever system) from the nav-room which allows you to connect a series of doors to be force opened, including the ballast tanks and use your strongest pumps to drain excess water REALLY quickly. Take the Orca 2 for example. The bottom left and bottom right rooms only have small pumps, which isn't enough. Put a portable pump in each room with the right detector setup, and you've taken care of those. Connect a lever system to open up all doors mid-deck rooms that connect to the ballast tanks so you can force drain the water in your sub the second the ship is fixed. This way your ship won't sink to the Abyss and stay there, you can recover MUCH quicker. Add in a fix foam setup for your other rooms and you can basically take a full beating twice before you are in any real danger.
This looks as much a great safety thing(s) as the thermo reactor controller.
I knew I needed an AND component but couldn't figure out all the other pre-made conditions from the game. Learning basics of how doors worked and you covering the auto doors with water measure immediately was perfect!
well, now I know I didn't need to install a new motion detector and just needed to add a wire to the existing one...
I've actually invented my very own door system that is definitely complicated but extremely useful. The doors will open automatically if water is not at 40% height in the room, and the door will always close after 2 seconds if you are dead, not right next to the door, or staying still. I also combined the 40% part of the wiring so that the duct block in the room will only open if the room is 40% full of water, that way you don't have that really annoying water problem where water literally leaks everywhere all over instantly, which causes salt bulb plants to explode from the smallest holes.
Then realise if your water detectors are screwed your whole submarine is flooded
Convenience comes at a cost of safety
@@cideltacommand7169 I have no idea what you're on about, the water detectors are immune to all damage (by default fyi) and can ONLY be messed with via griefing. And I have no idea how this wasn't clear to you, but ALL the water detectors do for the door is cancel the motion detector's function of opening it when the water is too high, it can still be opened manually...
Also for the duct blocks it should be very obvious how that works, the water fills up too fast/too high the duct opens...
@@lonejohnwolf oh alr I didn't read the comment properly
@@cideltacommand7169 You had me all sorts of confused there. 😂
You can get a component back behind walls; just destroy them, it will make the component accessible again.
Thanks Bro, your video really helped me with wiring and understanding the default delay close door circuit
if a component is badly placed, you can disconnect it using wrench
for chain connecting, you can do it with just one NOT component, connected between OR signals that collect all those from detectors and AND that connects it with final signal from human detector (hopefully it is understandable?)
other than that, this video is not bad for newbie engineers who want to be helpful
For anyone who's late to this video learning about doors, I came up with something similar that instead has doors open by default.
When there's water AND no person, CLOSE (else, do nothing)
When there's no water OR (blank), OPEN (else, do nothing)
So. Water detector has output 1, false output 0. Wired to the NOT and AND.
Motion sensor has output blank, false output 1. Wired to the AND.
NOT is not continuous. Wired to the OR.
AND has output 0, false output blank. Wired to the door.
OR has output 1, false output blank. Wired to the door.
You can actually get misplaced components back. It just requires you plasma your way into the bulkhead to reach them. Sucks, but doable.
Do you know how to build a door that you have to open manually but closes automatically after a set time interval (the door needs to stay open after opening manualy and is still able to be closed with the button)?
This is a pretty common circuit found on doors in a lot of the vanilla subs, and is also part of the default assemblies available in the sub editor. However, if you want to build one of these mid-campaign or without the editor, here's how:
1) You'll need a motion sensor, a NOT component, a delay component, an AND component, and 5 wires.
2) Place the components together in close proximity to the door, I usually put them in the top corner.
3) Open the door and place the motion sensor at the top of the door frame, and configure it for humans only. You can also adjust the sensing range as you see fit.
4) Set the delay component to 3 seconds, or whatever you want for a delay between someone leaving the sensing range and the door self-closing.
5) Wire the output of the motion sensor to the input of the NOT component, and wire the "state out" output of the door to the input of the delay component.
6) Wire the outputs of the NOT and delay components to the inputs of the AND component.
7) Wire the output of the AND component to the "toggle state" input of the door, making sure that the "false output" of the AND component is blank.
Here's how it works: When you open the door, this starts the timer on the delay component. If the timer runs out and there is nobody in the sensing range of the motion sensor anymore, this triggers the circuit to toggle the door closed. If these conditions are not met (someone is in range, or door is closed), then nothing happens.
I hope this helps!
@@TheGamingNerd2022 I will give it a try! Thank you verry much.
@@TheGamingNerd2022 that was material for you to make another video! please teach us more about wiring and components! you are awesome!
More barotrauma!!! Thanks!
Bro you're a genius
Ty so much
Thank you very much for this video! 🙌
How would you arrange it to take sensor inputs from both sides of the door? I have been trying to get it to work, but as soon as I try to chain the and components together the motion sensing on the door stops working. It will work if I only use one sensor, but if I link two sensors to one not component, the door will open when flooded, and if I include an or component, the whole thing stops working again.
Great video man! One question, How would you go about wiring, if you placed on each side of the door all the mentioned detectors in the video and have all of them operate the same door?
Great video!
If Joe Pera was playing Baro
Is there a way to make a hatch act like a duct, so that it opens with a water sensor, but also opens with human input as an override? So far I've only been able to make it open only if there is water present.
An OR component would probably accomplish what you're looking for. Attach the button for the hatch and output of the water sensor to the OR component, then attach that to the input of the hatch. Then if either one is activated the hatch will open. I think that'll work, I haven't tried it though.
Any chance you post a screenshot showing all the connections? It's really hard to follow the logic at the end when you go so quickly!
Just slow the video down to .25
I don't know if this'll help or not, but the "and" component is looking for 2 positive inputs, and the "not" component outputs a negative signal, doors open on positive signals and close on negative signals. There's also a setting for the "not" component to make it constantly output a positive signal whenever it isn't getting its own positive signal that it converts into a negative one. The "and" component outputs a positive signal only if both of its inputs receive a positive input from something. You can change what the output signal is on some components, like the "and" component. 1 or higher is a positive output (you won't be needing anything higher than 1 unless you're using something with a specific number requirement, such as a pump's "set target level" input), and 0 is a negative output.
How do you wire the custom hatch on the bott air lock of the Typhon 2
Thx for the video, it was really informative!
Your feedback is appreciated!
does this still work for you? I can't seem to get it to work.
EDIT: So I got it to work but only if I have one sensor for each AND, is there a way to have a water sensor and smoke sensor for both sides?
(Note I tried an OR but it didn’t work for some reason even though it shouldn’t have changed the logic at all)
I'm having a problem if someone could help.... I've got it set up to where the door will stay closed if there is water.... but WILL NOT OPEN so if you're stuck in a room with water, you ain't getting out. Is there any solution, by chance?
Sorry for the delayed response! Your AND component probably has a zero in the false-condition output field, it should be empty. Otherwise, you can technically open the door manually, but the and component isn't satisfied and is sending a zero to the door's SET_STATE, which means that its going to shut the door milliseconds after you start to open it. It sounds like you're close, just delete everything from the false output. Let me know if that works!
Isn't it possible to not need the not gates the sensors are connected to if we just reverse the values of the detectors? (Detecting something = 0, Not Detecting = 1).
Yes, if you're using your own sensors. But if you're using the water detectors that are already installed on the ship, that would also screw with the pump and duct controls. Also if you're going back and adding more sensors or rewiring the circuit for some reason, having flipped the output of the sensors makes it much more difficult to troubleshoot visually
@@TheGamingNerd2022 Ah got it thanks for the clarification.
I have an issue where I will put down an lever, run it through and AND component, and no matter what I do it 100% overrides the door. If it's on, it's on, the door keeps making shutting sounds and won't. If it's off, the door won't open at all unless you disconnect it. Same thing with my water detectors automatically opening/shutting doors - I want them to OPEN the doors in flooded areas to let the water out, I don't want them to force the door closed so nobody can repair the room. Any idea how to make a lever open a door while pulled, but have no impact when not pulled?
Put a relay in between the door and the switch, wire the switch to both the signal in 1 AND the set_state of the relay.
@@TheGamingNerd2022 Thank you very much! Will give that a shot asap.
I've been trying out the water detector door circuit you showed off but it doesn't seem to work on the current version of the game. Does anyone know what changed or how to fix it?
I wire it the same but a couple of the components have additional functionality built in now and I don't know how this is affecting the circuit.
I'm having this same issue,
It seems like the door with buttons no longer overrides the external water detection logic when you manually press open
Nevermind, I had the AND gate of the water detection circuit set to a 0 as a FALSE output instead of leaving it blank. having the AND gates that connect direectly to the door set to blank for a false output (the default config) makes this work as seen in the video.
@@michaelbenson3943 have you tested it with a flooded sub? My friends and I tried a bunch of different combos if output states based off the circuit, and whenever water hit the detector it just freaked out. Either the door would lock open or closed.
We could not get the door w/ buttons to open if the water detector was submerged. The AND gate output seemed to override the button. Only an external third button was able to work around this.
@@DragonGamer31 yes, I did this in the humpback, in the sub editor. I would blow a hole in the engine room and it works.
You can't have the motion detector directly connected to the door. You need the delay circuit ( just go into the winterhalter in sub editor to see the circuit for the delayed close)
hello ive been trying to do a safety system and stumbled upon your video
im having trouble with opening the door when theres water
i dont know if the game patched something but pressing the button deosnt do anything
ive looked at youre wiring a million times and compared it with mine
the vanilla autodor with the NOT and AND from the water detection system all wired as seen on video right??
Check your AND component for a false output... it should be blank, if it's a 0 then it will hold the door shut when there's water present.
Or you could use doors with windows
This video is great! But how do I have a door be open at all time unless there is water or monster but can still be opened manually to fix the situation once fixed the door goes back to the open
Easy! Add a new motion sensor in the door frame, and another pair of NOT and AND blocks, plus a switch and relay. Configure the motion sensor to detect monsters only, and wire it into the NOT block, and replace the motion sensor's connection to the original AND block with the output of the NOT block. Wire the output of this AND block to one input of the new AND block, and wire the output of the relays first channel to the other input. Wire the output of the switch to both the input of that first channel and he relays "set state" input, and wire the output of the new AND block to the doors "set_state" port, making sure that the false output of the AND block is blank. I'm doing this a in my head, but I'll check it as soon as I can get to a keyboard! Let me know if it works!
@@TheGamingNerd2022 I can still chain right with the water detector I'm not the greatest at spawning monsters so I check with water
"spawn mudraptor cursor" into the F3 console should summon a mudraptor to wherever your mouse is when you hit Enter. If you spawn something that turns out to be a little harder to kill than expected, you can use the "killmonsters" command too
@@TheGamingNerd2022 to be honest I'm pretty confused on it I can't get it to work I'm probably missing something
how do i wire a door to stay shut?
Throw a switch on the wall somewhere nearby (don't make it easy for traitors to find), and wire it into a Signal Check (SGN) component's signal_in port. Configure the SGN for a target signal of 1, a false output of 0, and leave the output blank. Then wire the signal_out from SGN block to your door's set_state port. If you did it right, then switch off = locked, switch on = normal operation.
If you wire the switch directly to the door, when the switch is off, it sends a constant output of 0 and the door will stay closed. However, when the switch is on it will send a constant output of 1 and door will stay open, which is okay until the proverbial poop hits the fan (you don't want compartments taking on water with doors propped open). Using the signal check block to turn the 1 into a blank (aka "null") output will allow the door to operate normally.
Is there a way to lock the doors completely when water/fire/monsters are detected?
A NAND or AND gate would probably do that. So that the sensors need to be detecting nothing for the door to open.
I think the video needs some Time-Stamps
How would I make a lockdown system where none of the doors can be opened?
If you want the doors to be impossible to open at all without a plasma cutter, you could use a switch and a wifi component for the controller, and a relay, a not component, and a wifi component for each door. Connect the switch's output to the signal_in of the wifi and make sure the wifi is channel not already being used. Then wire the signal_out of the other wifis to the relay's signal_1_in and the signal_in of the not component, and configure the wifi component to use the same channel as before. Wire the signal_out of the not component to the set_state of the relay, and configure the not component for continuous output. Then wire the signal_1_out of the relay to the door's set_state port,and you can now prevent the door from opening remotely!
Here's how it works: first, because switches create a constant output, the switch's current state is broadcast to the wifi channel continuously. Any wifis on the channel will mirror this signal as their output. This signal is inverted by the not component, disabling the relay when the switch is on, and enabling it when the switch is off. When enabled, the same off-signal mirrored from the switch state is passed through the relay to the door's set_state control input.
Technically, this circuit doesn't force the doors closed continuously, instead it sends the "close door" (or more accurately the "set door state to off/closed" command) 60 times per second. If someone tries to open it, the "open door" command is accepted, Andrew the door will start to open, but the "close door" will be received within 16 milliseconds and the door will close again.
@@TheGamingNerd2022 Oh thanks!
I'm not sure why, but the door now locks when detecting water but I can't open it manually, it just immediately closes it again. Anyone know how to fix this?
It's hard to say without seeing the circuit... Can you take screenshots of all the connection panels and put them in an imgur album (or something similar)?
@@TheGamingNerd2022 I managed to fix it by using a relay instead of an AND. When I followed you video step by step on the Humpback door from the fabricator to the diving suits it was locking up and not manually allowing me to open door. I fixed this by disconnecting the motion detector from the door, connecting water detector to NOT, NOT to relay set state, motion detector to input_1, and output_1 to the door set state. Not sure why the AND method wasn't working for me.
Think maybe it's because those doors don't have the AND NOT delay on them?
@@tonyzambone762 was having same problem but tried relay and still doesn't work.
*Fixed. When door received 1 it open and 0 it closes. You want it to receive a null, s that it's not trying to close itself, it's just not automatically opening. By putting a signal component between the 'and' component and the door, and setting false reading to null that way when there is water the door receives no signal to open or close until you press a button to do so.
I did eveything in the video and it's not working for some reason idk
I'm in the same boat. *ba-dum-tish*
Actually, I noticed that the AND component needs to have the false output set to 0
electrical science bubble?????????????????????????????????????? Send us the WORKSHOP LINK
tinyurl.com/ydjtmtp9
@The Gaming Nerd Hi I'm Devaudio, the creator of the Electrical Science Bubble. Someone commented on my Steam workshop that you were using my sub. Glad that someone else found it helpful! I did notice you created a derivative, and I'm perfectly happy for you to re-use it, create derivatives, make videos for youtube. Just please don't add a little bit to my creation and refer to it as ''this bubble of mine' without any credit given. So yes, please do use my creation to help people learn the sub editor, but pretty please could you give some sort of nod or attribution for the works of others that you use?
@@devaudio5802 🤡
Can you show me how to put mods ?
Do you mean how to subscribe to a mod, or how to publish a mod?
@@TheGamingNerd2022 I mean how to install mods? I dont have the original game :(
@@andremurillo7356 i think find how do this!
But i know english yet propably))))
If interesting i can show)
@@Hunter22889 yes please
@@andremurillo7356 well catch)
Soo do you have discord? And radmin vpn? Sorry this
pingperfect.com/index.php/knowledgebase/376/Barotrauma--How-To-Add-Mods.html
bad advice. doors purpose is to keep floods contained. not to spread the flood.
tip: if all doors are opened by motion detectors, there will be no safe place in the sub.
Hence the flood detection circuit. It's like you didn't even watch the whole video XD
do these doors stop AI from getting in to repair stuff?