The pace of 7S series is tricky, when you don't wear the watch, it's okay to set a desired pace. From my experiences: - 0.0 ms beat error sometime gives a huge position error between best and worst position, a few beat error has a chance to reduce it. - unlike Swiss movement the amplitude is generally low at 180 < x < 260 sounds real healthy. When we wear the watch, the balance wheel is in the dynamic momentum, adding gyro error. These tend to result low amplitude and slow it down. For the general 24/7 wrist setting is about +10 seconds within
I've found a similar thing with my NH36 movement. Took a few adjustments, and some trial and error wearing the watch. Wish I'd seen your comment first lol :-) But now, on my wrist there is almost +/- 0sec/day variation, and
I agree... at first I wanted 0.0ms beat error, but made it more difficult overall... anywhere between 0.5 to 0.3 ms seems to give me best results, so now I target for 0.3ms.
I experienced this with my cocktail time. Adjusted it for 0 and noticed it was losing 10 seconds per day. Changed it to +10 and now it’s almost always at around +-1 sec per day
Thanks for explaining how to regulate my NH35. It was my first build and i was really happy and proud that everything was correctly installed on the movement and i didnt screw up things hahah.Then i noticed that my watch was off like almost 10 minutes in 24 hours. I tried to check the beat error and the rate with an app on my cellphone. i know its not the most accurate. But it it didnt even give me results. The app couldnt handle my rate some how. and if it showed me some results is said 999 S/D. Then i picked my 2th NH35 movement i already had bought for an other build and tried in on the app and it gave me results like 37 and 1,2 beat error. So today i tried to regulate it like in your video and i have just pushed it to minus and now its gave me finaly results, First attempt 309 S/D 0,5ms. Second attempt 39 S/D 0,4 MS, Third attempt i pushed it a bit to far and got -96 S/D 0,6 ms again and now i got a result of -8 S/D and 0,5ms. So thats seems alot of inprovement to me. Will check if my watch isnt going to be like +10 minutes in 24 hours off ;)!
Thank you very much for the instructions. I initially moved the rate in the wrong direction and ended up with -300s/day -- I was not aware how miniscule movements cause such big adjustments to the rate. After a bit of trial and error I ended up with -1s/day, very happy with that.
What an extremely helpful video. Now I need to learn how to remove the old movement and how to put the new one in without damaging the hands . Thanks . May you be well
Thanks for sharing this. It helps. On my side a use a toothpick with small bumps. So I don’t scratch anything and I don’t move the pitch to much. 👌 Based on how I wear and rest stand the watch on a usual day, I will regulate in those positions. Then for my use, I regulate at 12h for when on the watch stand (45° angle). Also 9h up when wearing walking, And finally dial up for when working hands above the keyboard. And final test, would be wearing for a few days to see how it works. According to my habits I may speed up or down so that on a daily use the average is finally the closest to 0. Even if the time Grapher would say more on a one shot one position check. 👌
I really appreciate your effort. To me looks so perfect the image quality. And the teachings are awesome. God bless you. You keep our minds focused and you are so talented.
Thank you for this video. The "macro"was just fine. I recently bought a timegrapher and have been watching videos on how to use it. Till now I had no idea how to tweek the beat error.
First time i tried (way before watching your video), screw driver slipped and I damaged hairspring, so to you all out there, be very careful not to touch hairspring. And yeah, fix beat error first...
I also love your effort. Greetings from Barcelona, Catalonia. I have an FNGeen 12€ automatic watch. I am testing this new watch. After 25 hours got about +5 seconds error. And resting still after 28!hours and still ticking .
@@EscapementWatch I've "tangled" before. It was a great experience in learning. Your dexterity and precision in those adjustments was nasty nice. Good work.
Wow amazing vs once I did a minuscule beat adjustment on a 7S26C and it caused a noisy beat never to be recovered. Problems are you cannot buy genuine balance spring assemblies & escape levers so this watch is scrap and I've learnt to live with how they operate ex 🏭 factory and enjoy as you need way more watch making skills than a hobbyist could ever learn when unexpected things happen. So you that have skills & knowledge 👏 you are all amazing!
@@EscapementWatch would you be able to settle the question of whether its harmful to the movement to set the minute hand backwards 1 minute on a 7s26c?
One week later after adjusting multiple times the speed of the 4R35 in my King Samurai (SRPE35K1), I've finally hit the "sweet spot", and now it runs with only between +-5 to 10 sec. per day! I highly recommend you do it yourself with your own wristwatch tools kit.
Mine is king samurai also, but it is not - 35 to + 40 / perday, not that much, isn't it to risky to open and close the watch oftenly, it will wear the seal on the watch? I dont mind to have time gap, in the end you have to regulate again when it changing again next next years to come
Thanks for posting this! I've always read that Seiko movements usually respond very well to straightforward regulating, glad to see you put it into action. 😃😃😃👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Seems like it's now time for you to invest in some upgraded camera equipment! 😁😁😁
Never had a need for this info until now. Your video is the first on I clicked on and had no problem using your info to fix my home built watch. Awesome video.
No hand winding is not a big deal, but you need to put that watch at different angles and see if it still stays at zero, but I would be happy with what you did you need to learn your watch if your watch is going to be off a minute a week well every week You move your watch a minute slower ,you got to work around things, like the sights on a gun if it shoots low you aim high
The Bergeon screwdriver tips are chipped likely from using it for tasks other than engaging screws. A beech wood dowel is often used when touching metal parts that do not require significant force.
One question. Is it true automatic watches suffer from hot weather.? Here we get around 37 to 40 degrees Celsius. Thanks so much for your tutorials and experiments and testing and prefect adjustments
So now that I know how to regulate the movement, if you change its position (e.g. vertically) and you adjust it, aren't you undoing what you did in the first position?
Yes! you might get lucky like my skx which in 4 positions is basically the same. *NOT COMMON* so you have to take an average of the 3 main positions. Dial up. 12 - Down and crown up is the last and least critical its basically when holding your phone your crown is up. get the average after 30min in each position and then regulate to that. number. So for a customer the other day his nh35 would vary by 7-12s in the main positions. so I did dial up +7s and 12 down -7s. They are reporting about 0s a day on wrist. So this is just a way to dial it in at first and most likely get it way better then it was from factory. make sure you have a steady hand. if you hit the balance spring you may kill the balance and need a replacement.
It's not an accurate way to regulate a non chronometer movement like this because you have only regulated in face up position so the 0.0 seconds a day means nothing to the accuracy. The proper way to regulate a movement like this is wear your watch for a week and measure if it runs fast or slow while wearing, and then measure each position at night (dial up, crow down, ect) then choose one overnight position and adjust as close as you can to that measurement of wearing + one positional change. Doing it your way means the watch could be incredible fast or slow when wearing and then even worse while not wearing. So for a basic example if your watch is running 5 seconds fast a day while wearing, and 10 seconds slow in a crown down position you would regulate only the crown down to -5 seconds (or whatever the average loss or gain is) Therefore achieving as close 0 as possible in the 2 positions the watch will be in mostly throughout the day.
Thanks for your input! I understand i was going to do a positional variance video in the future and how I like to account for it. But just for kicks. my skx mod has an nh36 doing 0, 4, 1, 0 in 4 positions. So sometimes you dont have to think too much about it.
@@EscapementWatch If you want an accurate watch, buy a quartz :P. My Seiko (6R15) is the most accurate, ranging +- 4s, but averaging at about 0 seconds over a month. It truly doesn’t seem to lose or gain time. My Stowa (Unitas 6498) is the most precise ranging between +3.3 and +4.5s, but not the most accurate. I guess the Stowa could be regulated to further it’s accuracy, but considering it’s not hackable, I don’t mind.
It's easier to do a dial down but make sure you calculate the variation between dial down and dial up and then adjust accordingly because you want to adjust for dial up in the end.
I have this movement in a "Rotate North" watch. I've had it for 3 months now, and having timed it every day for 6 weeks, it loses 22 or 23 sec every day, never varies. ( if I leave it face down for 24 hrs, it loses 16 sec ) I wear it all the time, including swimming 3 - 4 miles a week. I don't have a timegrapher, just the app, which doesn't seem to give reliably consistent results. As the watch is so consistent, would you recommend just regulating it, and not touching the beat error? Any comments would be appreciated, thank you
@@EscapementWatch thank you, actually it was 7 secs slow when face down not 16 as I stated, I'll make a soundproof box for my iPhone mic and try the app face down, and try to get it to plus 7. Thanks for your help
I have a Seiko 7s36 watch that is out of synch and gains time too quickly, looks like it needs slowing down. My son dropped it when he was young and I think that's where the problem started
Hi! I have a Spinnaker that runs on an NH35 movement and I'm troubled by an issue. My watch runs wildly. Within 15 minutes, the time fluctuates (if that is the correct term) like it's getting delayed by 5 mins then it's going to advance by 5 mins. This keeps on happening within the span of 15 mins. There is even a time when it stops running while it's powered up and on my wrist.
My invicta is 7 days old today and it runs about 30ish seconds fast each day. Should i send this back for an exchange? I've heard of invicta's having much better accuracy out of the box than 30ish seconds fast each day.
@@alihaydarerdogan8257 now it worked itself out and is running about 3 seconds flat on the wrist. straight up and down it's about 2 seconds slow. So i guess it was just because it was new and all the springs were extra stiff.
After I changed my dial and hands to mod my Seiko, I noticed that the time was way off like 5 minutes slow per 8 hours. I probably messed up the setting while touching the movement. Although I don't have a timegrapher, I was able to tweak it around (observed for 5 minutes after each tweak) after watching your video and now I got to a point where I am seeing no gain or loss after an hour. Probably still not as accurate as 0 beat error but this is fun and great! You saved me $50 😁😁
Bought twin Seiko fives with 36 movements from USA E-retail, one is a beautiful plus one or plus two a day, the other is negative -17 to -15. Is this a big enough concern to be factory? I could even be understating how slow the other one is
Checked my week, it's actually only -11~ but I do have a less active person usually wearing the other one so maybe wind amount. Was dramatic first day I had it back
If my watch is only running a couple seconds low per day on a full charge, can I just speed it up and not worry about the beat error? I don’t have a device to check for accuracy except for comparing it to a known accurate source daily.
@Escapement & Watch if the beat error is high can it damage the watch. I have this movement, and the time keeping is pretty good but the beat rate error is high like 1.2/1.3. Would you just leave it ? I also have a new spb 143 and the beat error fluctuates to nearly 0.5 beat error the positional variance is crazy as well. Think need to get out of seiko asap.
Hi Quick questions. Your NH35A says Seiko underneath, but mine says nothing. The stamping on my rotor also looks thinner. It gains about 13 secs in a day, which is within specs, but enough to be annoying. It’s a cheap Aliexpress homage, but I love everything else about it. Do you think the movement might be a fake? I’ve been looking for a cheap Seiko to swap the movements, but the Seiko 5 uses a VR36 as far as I can tell, with the day complication, so not sure if it would work. Thanks so much for this video.
Hi. I love these kinda things. No worries about the cam angles. You keep it funny. So why do they make that movement with no hand winding? How do people keep it running ?
Hey michael! they keep it running on the wrist and power reserve. SKX007 doesn't hand wind. old school style. its tough to live with sometimes. But a watch winder helps!
Do you perform regulating service? I have a watch with a Seiko NH35A. It's running slow 20 seconds/day. I was thinking of just speeding up the rate my self but I don't know if that's a good idea.
Thank you so much for the video I think it will be helpful I have a question The device seems to move too easily If I put it in a case and assemble it, won't the position be changed by the impact? This may be a very obvious question, I'm a beginner thanks
Awesome video- I’ve got an skx that’s gone way out of whack at + 5 minutes or so I don’t understand why seiko doesn’t regulate their new watches when it’s this easy??
There is also the factor that a watch movement made with moderate tolerances, i.e. relatively cheap has as brand new some "break-in", which means that the regulation drifts for some time after the watch has been taken to use. A high grade movement drifts very little as new, and most likely has also gotten extra care in factory by been let run for some time even prior to casing.
strip the whole movement down and clean it in ultrasonic cleaner. Then follow seiko manual and re-oil in specific spots. there are about 5-6 different oils used in this movement. The oils are expensive.
@@EscapementWatch thanks, so I guess it's a matter of power train effeciency. Minimize any friction between mainspring and escapement to generate a more powerful impulse to set the balance wheel a swinging.
Thank you for the very informative video. Is it possible to regulate the movement when it's still in the watch case? Or does it have to be taken out of the case?
I like your video. Can you give me your opinion? I just bought a new seiko 5 (SNKE49K1, 7S26 movement) on A-zon and I'm finding the power reserve is about 26 hours. The general wisdom is about 40 hours. I start by shaking it for a minute and I wear it all day. I wonder if it's possibly defective? (There was no plastic cover on the display back.) Thank you.
It is possible it is not getting enough motion during the day. Are you active or more? Sedentary? You can try buying a watch winder to fully top it up and test it out that way
you can adjust with real world timing. So time it first for 24 hours while wearing it. Then open it up and adjust very small rate. (Do not touch the beat level as I did in this video.) Then wear the watch 24 more hours and time again. Keep doing one adjustment every day until you dial it in. This is the only way without a machine.
hi, i got a 4r36a with the beat error WAYY of, so much that the phone app cant recocnise it(watch accuracy meter), and it gains 1 hoour a day... will the timegrapher be able to get the timings back, or is it too much of??
The further you move the beat error adjustment the higher the beat error gets. But moving the stud either way TOO FAR WILL INCREASE BEAT ERROR! Its hard to explain. Its the time between the clockwise spin and then the reverse counter clockwise spin of the balance wheel. And your adjusting the banking point of the impulse to be dead center. So you want to be in the center of the swing. So trial and error is used to find which way reduces that error. BUT if you go to far that way it will increase it again. So pulling it left or right increases the beat error. And pulling it left or right decreases the beat error. Depends which side of the swing you are on at the moment. hope that makes sense. TL:DR = trial and error
should be full at about I'd say 30-40 and its full, but no worries you can't over wind this thing. Its very durable and has protection against over winding.
Whilst the 7s is a great work horse, it just bugged me not having something as simple as hacking.. and as stated here, low amps.. had to replace the movement to a nh35 for logical reasons.. best 25 quid i ever spent.
The pace of 7S series is tricky, when you don't wear the watch, it's okay to set a desired pace.
From my experiences:
- 0.0 ms beat error sometime gives a huge position error between best and worst position, a few beat error has a chance to reduce it.
- unlike Swiss movement the amplitude is generally low at 180 < x < 260 sounds real healthy.
When we wear the watch, the balance wheel is in the dynamic momentum, adding gyro error. These tend to result low amplitude and slow it down.
For the general 24/7 wrist setting is about +10 seconds within
I've found a similar thing with my NH36 movement. Took a few adjustments, and some trial and error wearing the watch. Wish I'd seen your comment first lol :-)
But now, on my wrist there is almost +/- 0sec/day variation, and
I agree... at first I wanted 0.0ms beat error, but made it more difficult overall... anywhere between 0.5 to 0.3 ms seems to give me best results, so now I target for 0.3ms.
I experienced this with my cocktail time. Adjusted it for 0 and noticed it was losing 10 seconds per day. Changed it to +10 and now it’s almost always at around +-1 sec per day
I love how real this video is, and your effort to teach and show us how to regulate our watches, hopefully you can get a better camera.
This is an old video. I did upgrade to a nice camera now. Thanks!
Thanks for explaining how to regulate my NH35. It was my first build and i was really happy and proud that everything was correctly installed on the movement and i didnt screw up things hahah.Then i noticed that my watch was off like almost 10 minutes in 24 hours.
I tried to check the beat error and the rate with an app on my cellphone. i know its not the most accurate. But it it didnt even give me results. The app couldnt handle my rate some how. and if it showed me some results is said 999 S/D.
Then i picked my 2th NH35 movement i already had bought for an other build and tried in on the app and it gave me results like 37 and 1,2 beat error.
So today i tried to regulate it like in your video and i have just pushed it to minus and now its gave me finaly results, First attempt 309 S/D 0,5ms.
Second attempt 39 S/D 0,4 MS, Third attempt i pushed it a bit to far and got -96 S/D 0,6 ms again and now i got a result of -8 S/D and 0,5ms.
So thats seems alot of inprovement to me. Will check if my watch isnt going to be like +10 minutes in 24 hours off ;)!
Regardless of the camera angles and other technical issues. This was an excellent video. Outstanding content. Very well done. thanks
thanks for stopping by and enjoying the content!
Thank you very much for the instructions. I initially moved the rate in the wrong direction and ended up with -300s/day -- I was not aware how miniscule movements cause such big adjustments to the rate. After a bit of trial and error I ended up with -1s/day, very happy with that.
great job! and thank you for watching!
What an extremely helpful video. Now I need to learn how to remove the old movement and how to put the new one in without damaging the hands . Thanks . May you be well
Thanks for sharing this. It helps.
On my side a use a toothpick with small bumps. So I don’t scratch anything and I don’t move the pitch to much. 👌
Based on how I wear and rest stand the watch on a usual day, I will regulate in those positions.
Then for my use, I regulate at 12h for when on the watch stand (45° angle).
Also 9h up when wearing walking,
And finally dial up for when working hands above the keyboard.
And final test, would be wearing for a few days to see how it works.
According to my habits I may speed up or down so that on a daily use the average is finally the closest to 0.
Even if the time Grapher would say more on a one shot one position check. 👌
Look, you’re apologizing for the camera angles, but this is a SUPERB tutorial for regulating the movement! Many thanks.
Thanks, this video helped regulate my Invicta 8926OB with the NH35A movement. Got tired of adjusting the watch a few minutes every day.
I really appreciate your effort. To me looks so perfect the image quality. And the teachings are awesome. God bless you. You keep our minds focused and you are so talented.
Thank you for this video. The "macro"was just fine. I recently bought a timegrapher and have been watching videos on how to use it. Till now I had no idea how to tweek the beat error.
Thank you for the great video. I just fixed my Sbdc101 from 1.4be and +37sec to 0.4be and +2🥳
Fantastic!
Very well explained and displayed. Very important how you mentioned that the beat has to be adjusted first and then the rate. Thanks!
4R36 here on a seiko sports automatic; after 1 week lost like half second per day on an average! i love it!
First time i tried (way before watching your video), screw driver slipped and I damaged hairspring, so to you all out there, be very careful not to touch hairspring. And yeah, fix beat error first...
This video is 2 years old but is really amazing! 👍🏼👍🏼
✌🏼😎👍🏼
I also love your effort. Greetings from Barcelona, Catalonia. I have an FNGeen 12€ automatic watch. I am testing this new watch. After 25 hours got about +5 seconds error. And resting still after 28!hours and still ticking .
hello from el coño de la bernarda :)
When a movement "hacks", like this one, it is good practice to stop the machine before regulating, so as to undergo less risks of damaging the spiral.
I think that is a good idea incase you nick the balance it may help out not getting tangled!
@@EscapementWatch I've "tangled" before. It was a great experience in learning. Your dexterity and precision in those adjustments was nasty nice. Good work.
Wow amazing vs once I did a minuscule beat adjustment on a 7S26C and it caused a noisy beat never to be recovered. Problems are you cannot buy genuine balance spring assemblies & escape levers so this watch is scrap and I've learnt to live with how they operate ex 🏭 factory and enjoy as you need way more watch making skills than a hobbyist could ever learn when unexpected things happen. So you that have skills & knowledge 👏 you are all amazing!
That was very, very helpful! I didn’t mind the camera angle at all. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
@@EscapementWatch would you be able to settle the question of whether its harmful to the movement to set the minute hand backwards 1 minute on a 7s26c?
not harmful just go slow and not to far back if your worried. 10min max.
One week later after adjusting multiple times the speed of the 4R35 in my King Samurai (SRPE35K1), I've finally hit the "sweet spot", and now it runs with only between +-5 to 10 sec. per day!
I highly recommend you do it yourself with your own wristwatch tools kit.
Great to hear!
Mine is king samurai also, but it is not - 35 to + 40 / perday, not that much, isn't it to risky to open and close the watch oftenly, it will wear the seal on the watch? I dont mind to have time gap, in the end you have to regulate again when it changing again next next years to come
Thanks for posting this! I've always read that Seiko movements usually respond very well to straightforward regulating, glad to see you put it into action. 😃😃😃👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Seems like it's now time for you to invest in some upgraded camera equipment! 😁😁😁
Everytime I save a couple grand I end up buying watches! Maybe in a year or two hopefully ☺️ thanks for watching
thanks for the video, my 4 year old skx just started rattling (loose rotor) and gain 2 minutes everyday.
Never had a need for this info until now. Your video is the first on I clicked on and had no problem using your info to fix my home built watch. Awesome video.
You are welcome!
No hand winding is not a big deal, but you need to put that watch at different angles and see if it still stays at zero, but I would be happy with what you did you need to learn your watch if your watch is going to be off a minute a week well every week You move your watch a minute slower
,you got to work around things, like the sights on a gun if it shoots low you aim high
I learned a lot from this. Trying to get my own Weishi 1000 soon because I’ve got too many seiko watches lol. Thanks for the help.
Glad to help!
Awesome! Very well done and informative. Now I've learned something. I had no idea where the adjustment was for the beat error. Now I do!
Glad you enjoyed it!
considering your challenges with the camera, you got great footage! thanks for the video
Awesome, thank you!
The Bergeon screwdriver tips are chipped likely from using it for tasks other than engaging screws. A beech wood dowel is often used when touching metal parts that do not require significant force.
disagree tho. a good quality driver will bent a little instead of chipping. showing it has to much hardness.
One question. Is it true automatic watches suffer from hot weather.? Here we get around 37 to 40 degrees Celsius. Thanks so much for your tutorials and experiments and testing and prefect adjustments
Yes all movements are effected by cold or hot extreme temperatures. Hot slows it. Cold speeds it.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for posting.
Not the greatest video, but priceless information. Thank You!
Head band camera mount? Perhaps camera glasses?
Thanks. This is a really old video we have upgraded dramatically since then
So now that I know how to regulate the movement, if you change its position (e.g. vertically) and you adjust it, aren't you undoing what you did in the first position?
Yes! you might get lucky like my skx which in 4 positions is basically the same. *NOT COMMON* so you have to take an average of the 3 main positions. Dial up. 12 - Down and crown up is the last and least critical its basically when holding your phone your crown is up. get the average after 30min in each position and then regulate to that. number. So for a customer the other day his nh35 would vary by 7-12s in the main positions. so I did dial up +7s and 12 down -7s. They are reporting about 0s a day on wrist. So this is just a way to dial it in at first and most likely get it way better then it was from factory. make sure you have a steady hand. if you hit the balance spring you may kill the balance and need a replacement.
It's not an accurate way to regulate a non chronometer movement like this because you have only regulated in face up position so the 0.0 seconds a day means nothing to the accuracy.
The proper way to regulate a movement like this is wear your watch for a week and measure if it runs fast or slow while wearing, and then measure each position at night (dial up, crow down, ect) then choose one overnight position and adjust as close as you can to that measurement of wearing + one positional change. Doing it your way means the watch could be incredible fast or slow when wearing and then even worse while not wearing.
So for a basic example if your watch is running 5 seconds fast a day while wearing, and 10 seconds slow in a crown down position you would regulate only the crown down to -5 seconds (or whatever the average loss or gain is) Therefore achieving as close 0 as possible in the 2 positions the watch will be in mostly throughout the day.
Thanks for your input! I understand i was going to do a positional variance video in the future and how I like to account for it. But just for kicks. my skx mod has an nh36 doing 0, 4, 1, 0 in 4 positions. So sometimes you dont have to think too much about it.
@@EscapementWatch If you want an accurate watch, buy a quartz :P.
My Seiko (6R15) is the most accurate, ranging +- 4s, but averaging at about 0 seconds over a month. It truly doesn’t seem to lose or gain time.
My Stowa (Unitas 6498) is the most precise ranging between +3.3 and +4.5s, but not the most accurate. I guess the Stowa could be regulated to further it’s accuracy, but considering it’s not hackable, I don’t mind.
hi. i see that you adjust the beat error also towards the plus, even if you had to lower it to zero. how come?
Thanks for the helpful video. Is it better adjust with dial up or down?
It's easier to do a dial down but make sure you calculate the variation between dial down and dial up and then adjust accordingly because you want to adjust for dial up in the end.
@@EscapementWatch thanks a lot!!!
Congrats you’ve gained yourself a new subscriber... Amazing content🔥💯
I have this movement in a "Rotate North" watch. I've had it for 3 months now, and having timed it every day for 6 weeks, it loses 22 or 23 sec every day, never varies. ( if I leave it face down for 24 hrs, it loses 16 sec ) I wear it all the time, including swimming 3 - 4 miles a week. I don't have a timegrapher, just the app, which doesn't seem to give reliably consistent results. As the watch is so consistent, would you recommend just regulating it, and not touching the beat error? Any comments would be appreciated, thank you
yes if you have your real life usage an d its -23s a day consistently then just go to the positive side 23s and you will be happy!
@@EscapementWatch thank you, actually it was 7 secs slow when face down not 16 as I stated, I'll make a soundproof box for my iPhone mic and try the app face down, and try to get it to plus 7. Thanks for your help
Very nice video. Thank you so much
Perfect job, congratulations.
And thank you very much for sharing.
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a Seiko 7s36 watch that is out of synch and gains time too quickly, looks like it needs slowing down. My son dropped it when he was young and I think that's where the problem started
Hi! I have a Spinnaker that runs on an NH35 movement and I'm troubled by an issue. My watch runs wildly. Within 15 minutes, the time fluctuates (if that is the correct term) like it's getting delayed by 5 mins then it's going to advance by 5 mins. This keeps on happening within the span of 15 mins. There is even a time when it stops running while it's powered up and on my wrist.
My invicta is 7 days old today and it runs about 30ish seconds fast each day. Should i send this back for an exchange? I've heard of invicta's having much better accuracy out of the box than 30ish seconds fast each day.
Hi, how is your invicta running right now? Fast or slow ?
I bought my invicta last week. It runs 12 seconds slow each day.
@@alihaydarerdogan8257 now it worked itself out and is running about 3 seconds flat on the wrist. straight up and down it's about 2 seconds slow. So i guess it was just because it was new and all the springs were extra stiff.
This is great...!!! Thank you brother!
Welcome!
After I changed my dial and hands to mod my Seiko, I noticed that the time was way off like 5 minutes slow per 8 hours. I probably messed up the setting while touching the movement. Although I don't have a timegrapher, I was able to tweak it around (observed for 5 minutes after each tweak) after watching your video and now I got to a point where I am seeing no gain or loss after an hour. Probably still not as accurate as 0 beat error but this is fun and great! You saved me $50 😁😁
Thank you for the tutorial 🤙
Bought twin Seiko fives with 36 movements from USA E-retail, one is a beautiful plus one or plus two a day, the other is negative -17 to -15. Is this a big enough concern to be factory? I could even be understating how slow the other one is
Checked my week, it's actually only -11~ but I do have a less active person usually wearing the other one so maybe wind amount. Was dramatic first day I had it back
This was gold! Thanks mate🎉
Glad it helped!
I bought Invicta pro diver last week. It has NH35A movement. It runs 12 seconds slow everday. Is it normal?
My Captain Willard is losing about 10s p/d. is it worth me having a go without owning a timegrapher?
You can do this with the crown fully out? So the movement is quiet... And no risk of touching the balance wheel???
Yes you can
If my watch is only running a couple seconds low per day on a full charge, can I just speed it up and not worry about the beat error? I don’t have a device to check for accuracy except for comparing it to a known accurate source daily.
Yes you can just change the rate. No need to touch beat error unless it is crazy of like 0.5ms or higher
@Escapement & Watch if the beat error is high can it damage the watch. I have this movement, and the time keeping is pretty good but the beat rate error is high like 1.2/1.3. Would you just leave it ? I also have a new spb 143 and the beat error fluctuates to nearly 0.5 beat error the positional variance is crazy as well. Think need to get out of seiko asap.
How did it run “Face up” once cased?
I was told on another post NOT to touch the bottom dial at all as this will mess the movement up.
Is this wrong then?
If you don't have a timegrapher then dont touch it. everything I did in the video is correct and perfect.
Can you tell me where to buy movement holder like you have.
Thanks
sure here: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmyQRVh
Hi
Quick questions. Your NH35A says Seiko underneath, but mine says nothing. The stamping on my rotor also looks thinner. It gains about 13 secs in a day, which is within specs, but enough to be annoying. It’s a cheap Aliexpress homage, but I love everything else about it. Do you think the movement might be a fake? I’ve been looking for a cheap Seiko to swap the movements, but the Seiko 5 uses a VR36 as far as I can tell, with the day complication, so not sure if it would work.
Thanks so much for this video.
4R36. I would have to see it to confirm but it might be a clone
Hi. I love these kinda things. No worries about the cam angles. You keep it funny. So why do they make that movement with no hand winding? How do people keep it running ?
Hey michael! they keep it running on the wrist and power reserve. SKX007 doesn't hand wind. old school style. its tough to live with sometimes. But a watch winder helps!
Does this video apply to a 6r35 as well, or if not could you do one for that? Thanks
Yes 6r35 is the same
Thank you so much for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
if you put an angled mirror on top of the watch (like cooking TV shows) you may get the show you want without you being obstructed by the camera
hmm interesting idea! ty
Do you perform regulating service? I have a watch with a Seiko NH35A. It's running slow 20 seconds/day. I was thinking of just speeding up the rate my self but I don't know if that's a good idea.
If you should use a loupe to regulate the watch, which magnification would you choose?
10x
Very insightful, thanx for sharing
My pleasure!
Hi, nice video! Just to confirm, is it 8 full 360° rotations of the ratchet wheel that result in full wind of the mainspring?
Yes correct.
Very helpful thank you! Love the blooper at the end lol
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great vid for people just getting into regulating their seiko watches 👍🇬🇧
thank you. I will talk about positional variance in a later regulator video.
Seiko movement always come with 0.3 beat error but can be regulated to 0 with time grapher.
what’s the part that has the seiko engraving called is it the train bridge
Fantastic video! Very informative! I am new and learned so much. Makes it seem less daunting and more obtainable to learn to do yourself.
Be careful glad I could help
I'm confused. If it's - seconds shouldn't you turn towards the + side?
correct! but the way the circle lever is...if I push away from + the pointer is going towards +
You did a great vid. All good stuff.
Thank you so much for the video I think it will be helpful
I have a question
The device seems to move too easily
If I put it in a case and assemble it, won't the position be changed by the impact?
This may be a very obvious question, I'm a beginner
thanks
Sorry I do not fully understand the question. Which Impact? if you drop the movement you mean?
I like u Content,
Good job bro🙏
Thank you 🙌
Awesome video- I’ve got an skx that’s gone way out of whack at + 5 minutes or so
I don’t understand why seiko doesn’t regulate their new watches when it’s this easy??
they produce thousands and thousands of watches each day would be more expensive to hire more people for this and production would slow dramatically.
There is also the factor that a watch movement made with moderate tolerances, i.e. relatively cheap has as brand new some "break-in", which means that the regulation drifts for some time after the watch has been taken to use.
A high grade movement drifts very little as new, and most likely has also gotten extra care in factory by been let run for some time even prior to casing.
Is there a way the intentionally adjust amplitude? When I adjust beat error my amplitude changes drastically.
Having a watch in perfect Beat gives you the strongest amplitude possible for that movement and condition of movement
I learned set beat error first, then regulate. How would you get the amplitude into the 300 zone?
strip the whole movement down and clean it in ultrasonic cleaner. Then follow seiko manual and re-oil in specific spots. there are about 5-6 different oils used in this movement. The oils are expensive.
@@EscapementWatch thanks, so I guess it's a matter of power train effeciency. Minimize any friction between mainspring and escapement to generate a more powerful impulse to set the balance wheel a swinging.
Well said!!!
@@EscapementWatch thanks, your video and comments sorted things out for me, it's not as voodoo as I once thought.
Great vid thanks.
Very handy info. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank you for the very informative video. Is it possible to regulate the movement when it's still in the watch case? Or does it have to be taken out of the case?
Yes, absolutely
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
I like your video. Can you give me your opinion? I just bought a new seiko 5 (SNKE49K1, 7S26 movement) on A-zon and I'm finding the power reserve is about 26 hours. The general wisdom is about 40 hours. I start by shaking it for a minute and I wear it all day. I wonder if it's possibly defective? (There was no plastic cover on the display back.) Thank you.
It is possible it is not getting enough motion during the day. Are you active or more? Sedentary? You can try buying a watch winder to fully top it up and test it out that way
@@EscapementWatch Well I'm pretty active. I see your suggestion. Thanks.
Hello sir,,just wana ask,,some of the videos on youtube says not to touch the big one on balance wheel?is it okay if i adjust it without time grapher?
you can adjust with real world timing. So time it first for 24 hours while wearing it. Then open it up and adjust very small rate. (Do not touch the beat level as I did in this video.) Then wear the watch 24 more hours and time again. Keep doing one adjustment every day until you dial it in. This is the only way without a machine.
my lever is already at the minimum speed, but my watch still too fast like 2 second per minute. what should i do?
sounds magnetized. Try to demag it. Check out how on my demag video
Regulating such way is not applicable if your watch is already being magnetized and need a overhaul.
hi, i got a 4r36a with the beat error WAYY of, so much that the phone app cant recocnise it(watch accuracy meter), and it gains 1 hoour a day... will the timegrapher be able to get the timings back, or is it too much of??
It can!
excellent video and camera work, PLEASE though don't do this slow zoom as it is nauseating. Thank you!!
How do I know what direction to go with the beat error stud?
The further you move the beat error adjustment the higher the beat error gets. But moving the stud either way TOO FAR WILL INCREASE BEAT ERROR! Its hard to explain. Its the time between the clockwise spin and then the reverse counter clockwise spin of the balance wheel. And your adjusting the banking point of the impulse to be dead center. So you want to be in the center of the swing. So trial and error is used to find which way reduces that error. BUT if you go to far that way it will increase it again. So pulling it left or right increases the beat error. And pulling it left or right decreases the beat error. Depends which side of the swing you are on at the moment. hope that makes sense. TL:DR = trial and error
Thank you for this!
No worries!
Is best to regulate it with a full wound? Or does it needs just a little juice to keep it ticking only?
Always full
how many times do we wind the nh35 for full power reserve? ive heard someone say 8 times, someone said 25 times and even 55! damn..please help thanks
should be full at about I'd say 30-40 and its full, but no worries you can't over wind this thing. Its very durable and has protection against over winding.
thanks..do you have any experience with the miyota 8n21/821a ?
A bit but mostly just the 9000 series.
Here in the Philippines it's cheaper to buy a new NH35 than to have it serviced
No it's not.
Great video.. very much enjoyed it
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the video, very helpful
You're welcome!
Whilst the 7s is a great work horse, it just bugged me not having something as simple as hacking.. and as stated here, low amps.. had to replace the movement to a nh35 for logical reasons.. best 25 quid i ever spent.
Bravo top great!!!!
turning that gear 8 times fully winds the spring ?
yes. It is a screw on the mainspring barrel.
Mind, if you miss the regulators and hit the hairspring you can kill the watch. True story
Does beat error matter as long as your seconds per day are close to zero?
not too much just uneven wear and tear
Thank you ❤
You're welcome 😊
Yes. Great vid
Glad you enjoyed it