My wife’s 2018 Tahoe has this same exact problem. A family friend looked at it and determined it was the lifters, and so I googled it and landed on your video. Man, thank you! At least I know what they are and where they are located, etc. Very good training video.
Bro bro I really appreciate you putting this video out there one comment I would have liked to see you time the vehicle before you turn the key thank you
Best video ever and Beavis and Butthead impersonator! 😂 My 2013 is just starting to tick, motorhouse fresh oil but I think I'm going to have to treat it and drain the oil and refill again to get rid of the tick. Thanks for showing us how to do it
Thanks for the help my 4 suburban has the same same issue on the passenger side I ordered the parts thanks to you am making it a project on for the next weekend thanks
I don't have the ticking sound yet, in my 2019 Silverado V8 5.3 Liter V8. Will the Range plug in ODP unit help me from getting the damage everyone has been getting?
I thought stuck lifters was caused by bad oil like taking too long between oil changes? I have a gmc 2007 5.3L and my lifter on cylinder 7 got stuck. I have them all out now and will replace all of them. What do you recommend to make sure my afm lifters dont do this again? Im gonna buy a new updated vlom as well. Also do all aftermarket lifters work well? Thank you.
I could not hear what you said about torquing the rockers. The sound went way down. So there is no lash and adjustments on the rockers? Just tighten them down all the way +what torque?
Hello, great video. Do you have to have the engine at a certain rotation to remove or install the lifters? Would you please share what you torqued the lifters down to? Thank you greatly for your time and help. I greatly appreciate it. Have a wonderful day. 👑
@fladave99I’m not a master mechanic and I have veryyyy little experience but a decently priced torque wrench and Online SPECS Forums will help you out a hell of a lot just takes a second of reading and realizing we aren’t computers and the proper tools don’t cost that much when they get the job done Quicker and 100% efficiently. You will be glad you spent $150 on tools that you can keep using 100 times rather than $1000 to fix something you could have prevented in the beginning
Im doing a cam swap and the cam won’t come out. I think it hits a lifter. is it that easy just pop out the lifters. Take the cam out, Put the new cam in, and put the lifters back in?
Yo before you removed your rocker arms did you have too set your pulley or piston at TDC before removal of rockers nobody mentions that part or just remove rocker arms and reinstall them the same way and torque them down 22ftlbs and you'll be fine that way with no damage to push rods ?
great job and explanation. I'm looking at either getting this done on my 2013 Camaro SS (LS99 6.2L V8). I'm on the fence about doing this either by a mechanic or doing it myself as a weekend project. Do you have any special tools you recommend suitable for a do-it-yourselfer?
If you’re there working and it’s open, why would you not? Wouldn’t be fun to do all that work replacing one only to have one right next to it go bad right when you’re done!
Replacement Bolts is recommended because one theyve BEEN torqued theyve BEEN stretched already ,so when u take them out bring them straight to trash bin or ur junk metal bin! Always replace torque to yeild Bolts!
Excellent video. Very informative. I have a 2007 avalanche with 190000 on it. I probably will be doing this job soon. I've worked on classic cars in the past and found that taking off the exhaust manifold is a pain. Is it the same for the 5.3? And if so, any tips?
For the bolts to the head, the bolts that are still intact will be easy enough to just unbolt without any trouble as the aluminum heads don't corrode and weld themselves to the bolts but the 2 bolts near the firewall on both banks will probably have the heads popped off so get another set of manifold bolts ready to go. If you are lucky the studs will still be intact. My go to is a tiny pipe wrench to remove those but a good set (Eagle Grip by Malco) of straight faced vice grips works too. If you are removing the heads then work on the studs on the workbench but if you want to get them right away you can use a pry bar to make some room to get the pipe wrench or vice grip in there and use a socket as a spacer between the manifold and the head so you don't have to hold the pry bar while you work on the stud. If the studs broke off inside the head then you have a bigger problem. Welding a nut to them is a good way to get those off but if that is too much trouble Doorman makes a repair bracket that can seal the manifold to the head without using that bolt. If you want to remove the manifolds completely, for the 3 nuts on the flange attaching the manifold to the cats, a MAP gas torch is a must. Get the torch with the rubber hose so you can get the nozzle where you want it easier. Heat a nut until it glows dull red, it will take a few minutes and then get on there with a breaker bar or an impact quickly. You'll want a 6 sided 15mm deep impact socket, 6 sided so you don't round over the nut. An impact rated universal joint will be necessary as well. You'll also (probably) need an O2 sensor socket as well as the passenger side O2 sensor might be in the way. I chase the threads on the cat side flange with a die before reinstalling, use new stainless nuts and use anti-seize on those threads.
Holy crap. I never thought I'd get that level of information as a reply. I'm sure that everything that you wrote is gleamed from experience. Thank for your reply.
@@michaeltretina I'll give you one more tip. I just clicked on your channel out of curiosity and seen your video on your crazy gauges. If that engine was cold your oil pressure (29 psi) is too low, it should be closer to 50 psi. If it was hot then it's still down about 10 psi. Being a 2007 if you haven't already replaced it then 100% the O-ring on your oil pickup tube has deteriorated and is allowing air in and is aerating your oil. I would replace that first before you pull the heads and replace your lifters as you need to fix the cause of the problem before you replace the symptoms. There is about a 50/50 chance that just replacing the O-ring and getting the air out of your oil will quiet your lifters and this procedure won't be necessary, either way it needs to be done. If you do replace the lifters, get an afm delete kit and get rid of the problem afm lifters permanently. They are nothing but problems when they age.
Again thanks. The crazy gauges were a bad ground. All fixed. I replaced the oil pan gasket via dealer and they said oil pump and pickup is ok. The oil gauge reads about 40 when hot.
Wow bravo. Awesome job. but I followed the same steps and process and when l turned it on , my engine sounds like a helicopter.. lol you know why ? May did something wrong? Can you answer me pls.
You probably didn’t tighten your rocker arms correctly. It’s a certain way you have to do that. Search ROCKER ARM INSTALLATION on RUclips. I’m pretty sure that’s what’s going on. Good luck bro. It’s easy.
Try and FIND. Key word. " TRY" Oem parts,especially lifters , Ac delco and oem LIFTER TRAYS. Those are pretty easy and cheap to find. Oem lifters, not so much
I have a 4.8 I just bought knowing it has a lifter issue I consider it a steal based on the shape the body is in it could sell for 3k on its own around here it has 250k on the dash this is my first time attempting this. I should be fine but if anything does happen to go wrong I have a PRISTINE 5.3 with 180k on it that was resealed less than 2 months ago that I can throw in the truck
Piggyback off of his comment everything you showed seems very cut and dry simple. When you rotate to find TDS ur just manually hand turning the crank shaft until Cyl 1 piston is closest to the top/ head as possible and peak through the spark plug hole for “visible” conformation? Or is there more smaller details I need to learn myself up on?
alldata, if you don't have that google it. please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
I worked my butt off trying to clean the top of the valves because they were heavily caked with carbon and what looked like a off white looking tarter type stuff that was harder than the carbon to get off! My pistons weren’t too bad , they have small amount of carbon build up on them but i was told that they have a coating on top of the pistons and if i cleaned too much and remove or even partially remove that coating the Piston would soon have to be replaced because with that coating gone the engine would END up burning a hole through one or more piston. So i left that little carbon build up, but due to recieving that stimulus check instead of replacing #4 cylinder’s bad hydrolic lifter I replaced all of the lifters on the passenger side of my engine! After cleaned the head and the engine surface real good ( damn near polished both surfaces) I put the new lifters in the guides and put on my new head gasket and then the sparkling clean head , then put in the M11 and M8
New head Bolts and started the first round of my torquing sequence at i think it was 22ft.lbs.and realized i didnt torque down the lifter guides , hell i didnt even remember if i actually tightened them at all!DAMNIT!!!!! So weather permitting this Saturday i Will take the head back off and sense i had only torqued it at 22 ft.lbs. MAYBE I can still use the same New head gasket? I open for anybody else’s OPINION about the gasket situation , please comment back to me on that! I hope this CABINETMAKER gets it running and on the road soon cuz the wifey Aint too HAPPY its taking so long to get fixed , and she want her car back! Lol!
Doesn't that have 5.7 L31 engine? Replace all 16 lifters and do it before they wipe out the cam. On that engine, you don't have to pull the heads. Good luck to you.
cool video = informative , but rushing today , but around 12.50 in the video = you show the bottom roller of a lifter and to me = looks like medal shavings -- wondering if so , or you noticed , is cam = ok ? I will watch rest of vide if the guy owning the truck wants me to do it = i don't want to .....
This video was most helpful. I have a 2014 Chevy Tahoe. I had the ticking noise and changed the lifters on the passenger side and the ticking stopped but now it's saying low oil pressure stop engine now and it's running rough and giving misfire codes. Any thoughts??
Get rid of the oil pressure sensor filter/screen. Its garbage trust me i did it on suburban and my silverado. Take off the sensor and pull the screen inside then put the sensor back. 5min job
Is there anyone in central / Southern California that can help me with my Yukon lifter issue. First it was oil pressure sensor gauge . Now lifter with misfire on 7 now Stabiltrak coming on now too I love this car and it ran so strong .. new wheels and tires… last oil change and I’m looking at in my driveway everyday now. Dealer says 10k for a new motor.
so if number 7 number has a miss fire then start by checking or replacing the ignition coil pack and the spark plug for number 7. Stabiltrak is most likely gonna be a brake issue or abs. if it is a bad lifter it is cheaper to replace the lifter then spending 10k on a motor. THANKS FOR WATCHING !!!! Please like share and subscribe, also check my other channel, Salem Taxi on YOU TUBE . Thanks.
A 2005 Tahoe won't have the variable valve timing that is in this video. However much of this video is very similar to what you would need to do to replace lifters with your application.
I will tell you what this is BS Chevrolet don't know what they are doing now days the old engine all you have to do is take the valve cover off and the rock arm off a them the push rod out then you take along finger devices and grab it and put it out
My wife’s 2018 Tahoe has this same exact problem. A family friend looked at it and determined it was the lifters, and so I googled it and landed on your video. Man, thank you! At least I know what they are and where they are located, etc. Very good training video.
Bro bro I really appreciate you putting this video out there one comment I would have liked to see you time the vehicle before you turn the key thank you
This video save me a fortune. I was able to change out the lifters on my 2009 Silverado.
Best video ever and Beavis and Butthead impersonator! 😂
My 2013 is just starting to tick, motorhouse fresh oil but I think I'm going to have to treat it and drain the oil and refill again to get rid of the tick.
Thanks for showing us how to do it
Thanks for the run through man! I was listening closely the whole time
Thank you so much for this detailed job on lifters ! Thank you !
Happy to help!
Im gonna be doing mine in the next week thank you very informative step by step
Good luck!
Thanks for the help my 4 suburban has the same same issue on the passenger side I ordered the parts thanks to you am making it a project on for the next weekend thanks
Did yours have active fuel management?
You are amazing. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Great job!
Best on yt about these afm lifters. I have a 2015 tahoe with no compression in number 4. Think it is the lifters.
2008 Tahoe balling on a budget bro I am about to do it thanks for ur video
Good job. More involved than I thought but now I know what to expect. 👍
Awesome video, very helpful but damn bro, the gum chewing though 😳
ASMR
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Was that brush on the drill a wire brush? And do you risk damage to the cylinder?
Yes, I would not use a wire brush. Better solution is a Nylon brush called a Roloc disc.
wire is softer then the metal its cleaning
I don't have the ticking sound yet, in my 2019 Silverado V8 5.3 Liter V8. Will the Range plug in ODP unit help me from getting the damage everyone has been getting?
Thanks for this video. So helpful
THANKS FOR WATCHING !!!! Please like share and subscribe, also check my other channel, Salem Taxi on YOU TUBE . Thanks.
Great video, makes me feel as though I could tackle it!!
not what you do its what you know, mess up on one step and you will be buying another engine.
I thought stuck lifters was caused by bad oil like taking too long between oil changes? I have a gmc 2007 5.3L and my lifter on cylinder 7 got stuck. I have them all out now and will replace all of them. What do you recommend to make sure my afm lifters dont do this again? Im gonna buy a new updated vlom as well. Also do all aftermarket lifters work well? Thank you.
use good clean oil and keep it changed also try so lucas oil treatment
Hope you are doing well, how much does it cost to do a job like this?
Amazing video thanks really helpful
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for your time and showing some important info i deffinetly need
I could not hear what you said about torquing the rockers. The sound went way down.
So there is no lash and adjustments on the rockers? Just tighten them down all the way +what torque?
Did you ever get an answer on this ?
google the specs
What year Chevy you working on here?
hello sir...when u take off rocker arms does crank pulley need to be top dead center ?
That was a great video but if you do the left side would you want to do the right side just asking
Where did you order your gaskets from?
I appreciate you for the video my question is if am only replacing the collapse lifers i don’t have to worry about cams etc.
correct, Thanks for watching , please like, share, and subscribe
Melling is a good brand ?
how much dose a job like will charge
SO there is 2 lifters per cylinder? mechanics have been telling me to get the heads redone as well? is that true?
Where r u location? Do you work others trucks? I have this same problem.
Hello, great video. Do you have to have the engine at a certain rotation to remove or install the lifters?
Would you please share what you torqued the lifters down to?
Thank you greatly for your time and help. I greatly appreciate it.
Have a wonderful day. 👑
@fladave99I’m not a master mechanic and I have veryyyy little experience but a decently priced torque wrench and Online SPECS Forums will help you out a hell of a lot just takes a second of reading and realizing we aren’t computers and the proper tools don’t cost that much when they get the job done Quicker and 100% efficiently. You will be glad you spent $150 on tools that you can keep using 100 times rather than $1000 to fix something you could have prevented in the beginning
Would it be the same for 2003 tahoe 4.8
What kinda marker do you mark them with???
Sponsored by Wrigley Extra Smacking
😂
Also replace the lifter trays too. In the video, his are very worn out. Make sure they are GM genuine though, if they aren't they will break!
Where could I get the torque specifications paperwork on a 09 chevy tahoe flex fule???
Im doing a cam swap and the cam won’t come out. I think it hits a lifter. is it that easy just pop out the lifters. Take the cam out, Put the new cam in, and put the lifters back in?
remove the lifters first
Thanks for watching , please like, share, and subscribe
Yo before you removed your rocker arms did you have too set your pulley or piston at TDC before removal of rockers nobody mentions that part or just remove rocker arms and reinstall them the same way and torque them down 22ftlbs and you'll be fine that way with no damage to push rods ?
install is a different procedure
Do you have a parts list of all the parts you replaced in this video? Asking for a friend.
watch the video
Thank you, please like, share, and subscribe, also check out my other channel Salem Taxi on RUclips
great job and explanation. I'm looking at either getting this done on my 2013 Camaro SS (LS99 6.2L V8). I'm on the fence about doing this either by a mechanic or doing it myself as a weekend project. Do you have any special tools you recommend suitable for a do-it-yourselfer?
alway buy tools
Where can I get the part from?
Good video thank you
Did you take off the timing belt?
When replacing a lifer should i replace them all
If you’re there working and it’s open, why would you not? Wouldn’t be fun to do all that work replacing one only to have one right next to it go bad right when you’re done!
Nice video man!
Does check recommend replacing the head bolt or are you doing it just as a precautionary measure?
Anytime you pull head, it’s best to replace all head bolts..
Replacement Bolts is recommended because one theyve BEEN torqued theyve BEEN stretched already ,so when u take them out bring them straight to trash bin or ur junk metal bin! Always replace torque to yeild Bolts!
Thanks for the visit please subscribe
Thanks for the visit please subscribe
Excellent video. Very informative. I have a 2007 avalanche with 190000 on it. I probably will be doing this job soon. I've worked on classic cars in the past and found that taking off the exhaust manifold is a pain. Is it the same for the 5.3? And if so, any tips?
For the bolts to the head, the bolts that are still intact will be easy enough to just unbolt without any trouble as the aluminum heads don't corrode and weld themselves to the bolts but the 2 bolts near the firewall on both banks will probably have the heads popped off so get another set of manifold bolts ready to go. If you are lucky the studs will still be intact. My go to is a tiny pipe wrench to remove those but a good set (Eagle Grip by Malco) of straight faced vice grips works too. If you are removing the heads then work on the studs on the workbench but if you want to get them right away you can use a pry bar to make some room to get the pipe wrench or vice grip in there and use a socket as a spacer between the manifold and the head so you don't have to hold the pry bar while you work on the stud. If the studs broke off inside the head then you have a bigger problem. Welding a nut to them is a good way to get those off but if that is too much trouble Doorman makes a repair bracket that can seal the manifold to the head without using that bolt.
If you want to remove the manifolds completely, for the 3 nuts on the flange attaching the manifold to the cats, a MAP gas torch is a must. Get the torch with the rubber hose so you can get the nozzle where you want it easier. Heat a nut until it glows dull red, it will take a few minutes and then get on there with a breaker bar or an impact quickly. You'll want a 6 sided 15mm deep impact socket, 6 sided so you don't round over the nut. An impact rated universal joint will be necessary as well. You'll also (probably) need an O2 sensor socket as well as the passenger side O2 sensor might be in the way. I chase the threads on the cat side flange with a die before reinstalling, use new stainless nuts and use anti-seize on those threads.
Holy crap. I never thought I'd get that level of information as a reply. I'm sure that everything that you wrote is gleamed from experience. Thank for your reply.
@@michaeltretina I'll give you one more tip. I just clicked on your channel out of curiosity and seen your video on your crazy gauges. If that engine was cold your oil pressure (29 psi) is too low, it should be closer to 50 psi. If it was hot then it's still down about 10 psi. Being a 2007 if you haven't already replaced it then 100% the O-ring on your oil pickup tube has deteriorated and is allowing air in and is aerating your oil. I would replace that first before you pull the heads and replace your lifters as you need to fix the cause of the problem before you replace the symptoms. There is about a 50/50 chance that just replacing the O-ring and getting the air out of your oil will quiet your lifters and this procedure won't be necessary, either way it needs to be done. If you do replace the lifters, get an afm delete kit and get rid of the problem afm lifters permanently. They are nothing but problems when they age.
Again thanks. The crazy gauges were a bad ground. All fixed. I replaced the oil pan gasket via dealer and they said oil pump and pickup is ok. The oil gauge reads about 40 when hot.
@@wally7856first thing remove oil pressure sensor and screen screen under sensor get plugged stopping oil flow to vlom solenoids..
Thanks man! Helped me out a ton!!!
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
That was a great video, thanks
Wow bravo. Awesome job. but I followed the same steps and process and when l turned it on , my engine sounds like a helicopter.. lol you know why ? May did something wrong? Can you answer me pls.
You probably didn’t tighten your rocker arms correctly. It’s a certain way you have to do that. Search ROCKER ARM INSTALLATION on RUclips. I’m pretty sure that’s what’s going on. Good luck bro. It’s easy.
the oil need to buildup in the lifters,
Thanks for watching , please like, share, and subscribe
good video... Thanks for the help
Thank you
Hey, great job on that !!! But I have a question. Do you trust the lifters that's purchased anywhere other than from the dealer?
Try and FIND.
Key word. " TRY" Oem parts,especially lifters , Ac delco and oem LIFTER TRAYS. Those are pretty easy and cheap to find. Oem lifters, not so much
@@vperkv6554ok gotcha
Change the oil pressure switch while you are in there!
Thank you, please like, share, and subscribe, also check out my other channel Salem Taxi on RUclips
Great video!
Good job
Did you put it in top dead center before removal of rocker arms?
I have a 4.8 I just bought knowing it has a lifter issue I consider it a steal based on the shape the body is in it could sell for 3k on its own around here it has 250k on the dash this is my first time attempting this. I should be fine but if anything does happen to go wrong I have a PRISTINE 5.3 with 180k on it that was resealed less than 2 months ago that I can throw in the truck
Piggyback off of his comment everything you showed seems very cut and dry simple. When you rotate to find TDS ur just manually hand turning the crank shaft until Cyl 1 piston is closest to the top/ head as possible and peak through the spark plug hole for “visible” conformation? Or is there more smaller details I need to learn myself up on?
Amazing my man👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿
thanks PLEASE SUBSCRIBE
Does timing need to be reset after doing this
Very good video
Making me want some gum but good tutorial 😅
Great job
Thank you very much for this video
Thank you for now
Great vid! Really helped out.
Thanks for watching , please like, share, and subscribe
What did that brake cleaner do to the chrome and rubber parts on the front of the Tahoe
nnothing
what website you use to get the specs?
alldata, if you don't have that google it.
please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Any issues after you did the one side?
That wire brush WONT damage the aluminum Face of the head where the gasket seals head to the engine?
no the wire is softer then the deck head
I worked my butt off trying to clean the top of the valves because they were heavily caked with carbon and what looked like a off white looking tarter type stuff that was harder than the carbon to get off! My pistons weren’t too bad , they have small amount of carbon build up on them but i was told that they have a coating on top of the pistons and if i cleaned too much and remove or even partially remove that coating the Piston would soon have to be replaced because with that coating gone the engine would END up burning a hole through one or more piston. So i left that little carbon build up, but due to recieving that stimulus check instead of replacing #4 cylinder’s bad hydrolic lifter I replaced all of the lifters on the passenger side of my engine! After cleaned the head and the engine surface real good ( damn near polished both surfaces) I put the new lifters in the guides and put on my new head gasket and then the sparkling clean head , then put in the M11 and M8
New head Bolts and started the first round of my torquing sequence at i think it was 22ft.lbs.and realized i didnt torque down the lifter guides , hell i didnt even remember if i actually tightened them at all!DAMNIT!!!!!
So weather permitting this Saturday i Will take the head back off and sense i had only torqued it at 22 ft.lbs. MAYBE I can still use the same New head gasket? I open for anybody else’s OPINION about the gasket situation , please comment back to me on that!
I hope this CABINETMAKER gets it running and on the road soon cuz the wifey Aint too HAPPY its taking so long to get fixed , and she want her car back! Lol!
I took my head off after installing and just reused the new head gasket again.
@@artslade125 I’m invested, what did you decide?
Do u not worry about the brake cleaner working too good on the Piston area and removing carbon around the Piston causing the motor to burn more oil ?
Not at all
You need some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean all that up...
Hi, I have a 96 tahoe, and the lifters need to be replaced. How many are required & how long can one drive around before replacement? Thanks
Doesn't that have 5.7 L31 engine? Replace all 16 lifters and do it before they wipe out the cam. On that engine, you don't have to pull the heads. Good luck to you.
Thanks for watching , please like, share, and subscribe
Is it necessary to replace the other lifters the non-active lifters?
If your in there, you might as well so your not redoing the job sooner.
But only the AFM lifter really go bad because the lifter collapse.
Good video the gum chewing made me hit the volume button but good information
cool video = informative , but rushing today , but around 12.50 in the video = you show the bottom roller of a lifter and to me = looks like medal shavings -- wondering if so , or you noticed , is cam = ok ? I will watch rest of vide if the guy owning the truck wants me to do it = i don't want to .....
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Why does the title of video says Chevy Tahoe when you are replacing the lifters on a Silverado? aren't the engine different on a Silverado vs Tahoe?
lol, no they are the same and same maker.
Thank you bro.
At what torque you torque the rocker arms
Are you near Augusta ga?
This video was most helpful. I have a 2014 Chevy Tahoe. I had the ticking noise and changed the lifters on the passenger side and the ticking stopped but now it's saying low oil pressure stop engine now and it's running rough and giving misfire codes. Any thoughts??
did you plug up the coil wires correctly? and are the plugs good? and coil packs?
Get new heads!
Get rid of the oil pressure sensor filter/screen. Its garbage trust me i did it on suburban and my silverado. Take off the sensor and pull the screen inside then put the sensor back. 5min job
How much????
I have the same issue with my 2016 Silverado and y mechanic wants to change the engine
Is there anyone in central / Southern California that can help me with my Yukon lifter issue. First it was oil pressure sensor gauge . Now lifter with misfire on 7 now Stabiltrak coming on now too I love this car and it ran so strong .. new wheels and tires… last oil change and I’m looking at in my driveway everyday now. Dealer says 10k for a new motor.
so if number 7 number has a miss fire then start by checking or replacing the ignition coil pack and the spark plug for number 7.
Stabiltrak is most likely gonna be a brake issue or abs.
if it is a bad lifter it is cheaper to replace the lifter then spending 10k on a motor.
THANKS FOR WATCHING !!!! Please like share and subscribe, also check my other channel, Salem Taxi on YOU TUBE . Thanks.
You definitely did a great job, I have a 2005 Tahoe that need the same thing. If you don’t mind asking, where are you located?
A 2005 Tahoe won't have the variable valve timing that is in this video. However much of this video is very similar to what you would need to do to replace lifters with your application.
nc
correct
What was the torque lbs for the rocker screws?
Será q solo le dio el llegue de la racha de pila ??🤣😂🤣😂
At what torque you did the rocker arms.?
22 Foot pounds
I need this on my 07 Tahoe the afm lifter is collapsed
Where are you located
nc
Do it really soft and easy.
What about zero valve lash?
Best thing to do is tune the ecm and turn off the afm!
The wire brush on the drill risky
20 ft-lbs for rocker arm
Might be a dumb question, but is the active lifter only on the left side. Wasn't sure if the right side also have it or not.
Thank you
Good video helpful but damn spit that gum out
Swear!..lol
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
So where does the banana peel go?
Does act work
Don’t fall for the banana in the tail pipe trick.
@@andyhamilton8940better play it safe and wear your anti banana disguise..
DO YOU HAVE TO USE NEW HEAD BOLTS ?
yes
My 2008 Tahoe did the same thing for 2 days. Then a took it on the freeway to work and it stopped
Have this ever happen to you
I have a 5.3 but all my lifters the same size
don't slip on that Banana
I will tell you what this is BS Chevrolet don't know what they are doing now days the old engine all you have to do is take the valve cover off and the rock arm off a them the push rod out then you take along finger devices and grab it and put it out