Hi,i won't tell anyone what they should or not do,but metal primers that give the best results are either etch type or 2k(2 pack),i've restored my triumph spitfire twice,once wrong(paint rust issues) and the second time with 2k primer and zinc primers,no rust issues. Aluminium is a tricky metal to paint and i think etch primer will give the best results. I'm looking for the best paint for stomp boxes other than automotive 2k types,out of the automotive paint i would lean towards the commercial paints they seem to be very hard wearing. Powder coat ,i am not a fan,alloy motorbike wheels end up flaking due to the powdery oxides produced when scratched,so powder coat is out as repairs are non existent as a full strip and recoat is needed. Again 2k paint is best for batch painting which suits me,but prototyping is always a one off affair and getting it right first time is either luck or due diligence expediting the info. I have pedals that have been painted and it never bothered me if they chip on corners but now i want to produce high end tube pedals....urgh. Another off shoot from classic cars is a paint used on old matel dash boards and scution plates and that is crinkle paint,it's black and with a tight small crinkle finish ,i've seen pedals done with this and it's a reasonably hard wearing finish,where the switch gear lights etc are finger constantly scratch and rub,just remembered it,not cheap,but a spray can would give tens of enclosures,a spray can of etch primer too. Small sample 1/4ltr of 2k paint can be bought cheap enough with the hardener too a need,a small air brush is also cheap,a compressor can be made from an old refridgeration compressor from a dump or ebay,no need for a tank with an air brush. There is always salt electrolysis,be aware to not use sodium chloride/table salt use potassium hydroxide as the electrolyte as table salt/sea salt/road salt/sodium chloride when used as an electrolyte will produce CHLORINE GAS, as used in the trenches of ww1. You could nickel plate unpainted areas,just as in etching a pcb either positive or negative image and keep or strip the paint,again something from the classic car thing . Just spitballing ideas ,i still have to sus out the cheapest most hard wearing paint,acid etch paint i think is the best way to go as a base layer.
Well, one day I'll get the pedal working (soon, I swear!), but so far it's held up really well with all the opening and closing to work on the insides. ;)
Hi Mathias, I built an overdrive pedal. The instructions on the kit I made were not great (or even good, tbh), and I got it working but it had a few little quirks from mistakes I made along the way. I decided to try fixing it and broke it even more, so I've decided to just rebuild it entirely.
![Etching aluminum surface at home in 9 steps- stompbox enclosure - full tutorial [napisy PL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c1874TiqzLs/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice work! Been looking for some ideas for the guitar pedal I'm building and this definitely helps.
Thanks! Good luck with your pedal!
What a piece of Art!! Really impressive!
Thanks so much!
Great video - thanks very much!
Hi,i won't tell anyone what they should or not do,but metal primers that give the best results are either etch type or 2k(2 pack),i've restored my triumph spitfire twice,once wrong(paint rust issues) and the second time with 2k primer and zinc primers,no rust issues.
Aluminium is a tricky metal to paint and i think etch primer will give the best results.
I'm looking for the best paint for stomp boxes other than automotive 2k types,out of the automotive paint i would lean towards the commercial paints they seem to be very hard wearing.
Powder coat ,i am not a fan,alloy motorbike wheels end up flaking due to the powdery oxides produced when scratched,so powder coat is out as repairs are non existent as a full strip and recoat is needed.
Again 2k paint is best for batch painting which suits me,but prototyping is always a one off affair and getting it right first time is either luck or due diligence expediting the info.
I have pedals that have been painted and it never bothered me if they chip on corners but now i want to produce high end tube pedals....urgh.
Another off shoot from classic cars is a paint used on old matel dash boards and scution plates and that is crinkle paint,it's black and with a tight small crinkle finish ,i've seen pedals done with this and it's a reasonably hard wearing finish,where the switch gear lights etc are finger constantly scratch and rub,just remembered it,not cheap,but a spray can would give tens of enclosures,a spray can of etch primer too.
Small sample 1/4ltr of 2k paint can be bought cheap enough with the hardener too a need,a small air brush is also cheap,a compressor can be made from an old refridgeration compressor from a dump or ebay,no need for a tank with an air brush.
There is always salt electrolysis,be aware to not use sodium chloride/table salt use potassium hydroxide as the electrolyte as table salt/sea salt/road salt/sodium chloride when used as an electrolyte will produce CHLORINE GAS, as used in the trenches of ww1.
You could nickel plate unpainted areas,just as in etching a pcb either positive or negative image and keep or strip the paint,again something from the classic car thing .
Just spitballing ideas ,i still have to sus out the cheapest most hard wearing paint,acid etch paint i think is the best way to go as a base layer.
Very nice job, that's alot of work but I am sure a labor of love ; )
Thanks Steve. :)
How is the paint holding up 10 months later?
Well, one day I'll get the pedal working (soon, I swear!), but so far it's held up really well with all the opening and closing to work on the insides. ;)
Thanks, what effect was the pedal in the end?
Hi Mathias, I built an overdrive pedal. The instructions on the kit I made were not great (or even good, tbh), and I got it working but it had a few little quirks from mistakes I made along the way. I decided to try fixing it and broke it even more, so I've decided to just rebuild it entirely.