for at least 50 years I have been trying to talk my customers out of leading everything to the cockpit. Thank You. NOT turning the screw: this is where most people make their mistake. If you turn the screw, you are creating a path for water. Turning it a Little Bit is ok- it distributes the sealant more evenly. We just try to never do a full turn or more. You did not mention how critical it is to have the screw cut exactly to length when using Acorn nuts, but the screw end should not bottom out in the domed nut before it is snug enough. If it isn't, adding more washers works too. "Don't they need backup plates? Don't they need fender washers?" Not really, their deck is plywood. Backup plates are fine, just ensure they don't have any hard spots or sharp corners. With all due respect to my hero Nigel Calder, I have found that King StarBoard actually is the Best material for backup plates (he doesn't agree). What do you call the "chamfering" process? I call it 'relieving' the edges of the holes. I have never drilled any hole in any deck (regardless of the deck material) without relieving both ends of the hole, practically since I started boatwork. In addition to the "hourglass", doing this will help prevent Gelcoat Crazing. Another way to prevent leaks is to try the fitting without sealant first, and ensure that all the bolts or machine screws will DROP THROUGH the holes. Any through bolt which has to be screwed into its hole, will probably leak. "Don't the holes need to be exactly the right diameter of the bolt?" NO, this is Boatbuilding, not the space station. The holes should allow all the bolts to slip right through, and no larger. They will all find their happy place and be fine. Drilling punky holes out 2x size, filling w epoxy, and re-drilling is a step that too many people skip. It is absolutely the best thing to do. Obviously, I am not talking about wood - or sheet metal screws when I say the holes should be oversize, but pilots for those should Never make the screw very difficult to drive. Relieve those holes a bit as well. Driving wood or sheet metal screws with a power tool is an understandable rookie mistake.The result is an overtightened (compromised) screw, with the head chingered up so it will cut the shit out of anyone within striking distance. SAFE boats don't have chingered screw heads everywhere (easy to sand and fix if U do). If a screw is difficult to drive, use a brace. There are times when you can power drive a screw, if Lou at Totalboat is doing it, you can too. Notice those professionals use bits that fit their screws. Forgive me, but I Strongly believe that mounting something, then coming back later to re-tighten the nuts, is simply an old wive's tale. I used to do it, because I was told to do it, by someone else who was told to do it, etc, but when I stopped doing it, I stopped creating leaks. Do all the tightening in the first go, then leave it. I just as strongly believe that using Butyl Tape is 100% legitimate. I happen to prefer conventional caulk over Butyl Tape. My first choice is Always Boatlife LifeCaulk. Sometimes this particular polysulfide is incompatible with certain plastics (esp vinyls), but not always. I don't really care if some people can't make it work, but I have bedded lots of King StarBoard in Lifecaulk, with zero problems. Mounting to Aluminum, LifeCaulk is the BEST insulator I have ever found, Bar None. I never use "gaskets" under hardware on aluminum to insulate, most gaskets provided by the manufacturers are thrown in the rubbish. If I am screwing or bolting something to wood (even plywood), LifeCaulk, is the closest thing I've found to being "oil base" (it's not), which is best for hard- or softwoods. If I have to do any gap-filling, I usually use Sudbury (Rule) Elastomeric Sealant. This stuff is so mondo after curing that it will actually create a shim to make everything look and fit great. Black is always going to last longer out in the sun than white or clear. I never use 52million, I just don't believe anything is really "permanent". *** Running before the wind, putting in a reef, I have always just swung the nose up and hove-to. There is no law that says you cannot heave-to with the jib on the pole. It is much easier on the battens that are bending around the aft lower shroud. All you would have had to do in this case is turn left. Reefed. And turned right. Easy. Thank You for letting me comment. I happen to think you are very sensible.
All lines led aft. A trend created by other trends. When cruising boats mimic racing boats with extremely asymmetrical shape, narrow fore decks, everything bubble shaped. But now the house is bigger and side decks are narrower, and there is an anchor on a bow roller with a 100 meters of chain rode below it in the forepeak. Now she's running down wind overpowered. The bow wants to plunge. The rear wants to surf. Big following seas are trying to push her around and yaw the ruder out. Oddly, no one wants to go forward.
Agree completely, it's critical to have the confidence to deal with things on deck when they need to be dealt with. When things get tough (which they will) is not the time to feel forced beyond the comfort of the cockpit.
Having stubbornly retained the "reef at the mast" system on the '66 Alberg 35 I've called home for 31 years, I am greatly appreciative of your solid seamanship points about being comfortable going forward. I would add that only by moving about in all conditions are you likely to catch a small problem before it becomes a large problem. Mine is an old fashioned worm gear "patent roller reefing" round boom. With the help of a great sail maker, I learned to create a lace-on luff main sail with a foam foot pocket that keeps sail shape at any depth reef. With my low aspect sloop rig this has been instrumental in using the wind vane to steer a well balanced sail plan in any wind. The scoffing of the Wednesday night race crowd is further affirmation of the simple beauty of this setup. As I age, the only muck up I allow myself to dream of might be a cordless drill chuck to drive the boom worm gear. As a commercial vessel naval architect and marine engineer I am really enjoying your solid practical advice and no nonsense approach. Half a world away, the fix- everything, solid old boat philosophy resonates clearly and is antivenom to the "fixit with the phone or throw it away" modern world. Our common gift from the work boat world is an immunity to the whims of fashion that commonly over rule seamanship judgement in the yacht industry.
I skippered a 30 meter classic ketch. It took an effort of willpower to leave (or get crew to leave) the comfort of the pilot house in nasty weather. But on my own boat (a 1981 First 42) I have the same problem you had; one person at the mast and one in the cockpit to manage the halyard. Most of the boats that I teach on have lazy packs, single line reefing lines to the cockpit and it makes life much easier. (Psychology is not my strong suite). Thanks for the butyl tape demo. I'll use it! I'm 77 YO now and am thinking about getting a smaller boat, but not giving up on sailing. Appreciate your YT work. Keep it up and keep us informed.
I agree wholeheartedly but one time for me I was taking off the whisker pole and we didn't have it on there right and we were in pretty rough sees and that had me scared in the back of my mind all the time about leaving the cockpit but after that I got very comfortable with leaving the cockpit cuz I knew I could do the job
Fascinating, so glad you made that video. 1. A mate Rob gave me my long roll of butyl tape and it just works superbly and the vessel is much drier for it. 2. I've been secretly wanting to change my reefing systems back to the cockpit for safety when solo on my Lotus 9.2, how to do that has kept me awake, so many complications involved, but you have successfully changed my mind on the absolute necessity of that. So Cheers!
Dear both, wife and myself really enjoy you two lovebirds. We have a larger boat and reefing is done from the cockpit, this is important for us not because we are afraid of going up there, but because the sails are so much more difficult to handle. Hence we tend to reef sooner... We are not always crewed more than the two of us. I do agree with your ideas on the psychology of it all. Fear can be a problem in itself. Much love, Bi&Mike
Thank you for the kind words. Every sailor should do as suits themself is our message. We never say this or that way is the correct way because we know how different each person is and each ocean provides its own challenges. Good luck and happy sailing.
I agree on the working oneself up needlessly about going forward. The other negative of that mindset is getting complacent, by thinking "the safety of the cockpit" is inviolate, and not clipping in as you come up the companionway in adverse conditions
I moved all of my reefing lines to the mast for the same reason of one stop shopping. I single hand on a beneteau first 45.6 it has made my life easier.
Troy, you talked about not having a balsa cored deck so just drilling holes and using Butyl tape is enough but if you had a balsa cored deck, I would have drilled the holes oversized, filled it with epoxy in an hourglass shape like you did and then come back and drilled into the centre of the now solid epoxy so if any water did get by the Butyl tape, it won't soak your balsa core. As you said, any small leak can be disastrous to the balsa core which can result in delaminating the deck and a major repair effort. On my old 29' boat (since sold) I had a bit of this and was able to repair the balsa core by putting a 90 degree bent Allen key into my drill and using it between the layers to get at all the old rotten balsa and then filled it under pressure with epoxy and filler. Those repairs lasted for the near 20 years I had the boat without another drop of water coming through. Great episode as always.
Opinion well said. I remember reading about a couple so frightened to leave the cockpit during an Atlantic crossing they let the CQR swing on it's chain for days ultimately holing the boat ,not going forward until they were in coastal waters. People should watch footage of Bernard Moitessier during the first single handed round the world race to see what a real offshore sailor is all about.
Troy just has a way of instructing things that makes seance and the hints to assure the job is done right the first time are fantastic. Paccar uses butel tape to seal the windshields in Peterbuilt trucks because it doesn't attract moisture like silicone does. Good job Troy and Pascal.
Thank you, I also own an approximately 50 year old 30 ft sailboat (1973 Alberg 30) which I sail singlehandedly and do all my reefing at the mast. I did ditch the rams horn and replaced it with a snap shackle which works much better for me. As a stoicist I belive the longest and the shortest life will end the same way and will be finished for the same eternity.
Really good advice well put across as always. It doesn’t matter what you two are doing, sailing, fishing, diving or just basic maintenance you always make it interesting. Oh, mustn’t forget Pascale’s cooking, that’s always fantastic.
I am so sad. I finished binge watching your channel so I have to wait a whole week for another video. As always, you give great demonstrations on your DIY projects. Just one small comment, when you show a new knot could you do it a bit slower. Keep up the great work.
Do you realise there's a control at the bottom of the youTube window which lets you slow down (or speed up) a video? It's a cinch for temporary slomo on demand.
I like the way you think. You always are thinking about making the boat the best it can be. Just like a land based home if you don't keep up with maintenance & improvements it will fall apart around you. Good video.
I've said this before, but I'll say it again - Troy, you are so lucky to have Pascal as a partner! Not only is she a beautiful person, who loves cooking AND sailing, she can also help with boat maintenance! (Has she got any sisters who are looking for an LTR ?? ;)
Totally agree with the you on the cockpit issue . My Alberg 30 is rigged as such , just clip on when required and carry on with the task at hand. Keep a weather eye and reef prior to the foul weather when ever possible.Great work you two
Great video, especially helpful as I am about to re-bed all my deck fittings. On the subject of bringing lines back to the cockpit. I have in-mast roller reefing and all lines come back to the cockpit. Last summer I was putting the boat name on my dinghy and stood up awkwardly which was the last straw for my knee which hadn’t been right since a long haul flight. That meant I could not walk. Not one step, it was just too painful. But I was able to sail the boat 25 miles home without getting up from a sitting position in the cockpit.
Free Range Sailing yes I am quite happy with my in-mast reefing even though it must be at least 30 years old. Many people hate it because the sail has to be cut flatter but I still beat 20 other boats of the same make and type in a race last year. Most of those had traditional mainsails.
@@Sailing_Antrice Who wants to race. I was wary of in mast furling, but got a boom furler just because it was on the boat already. Same thing, I can furl 100% in the cockpit, but when I stuff it up I can still drop the sail on deck then tie it up. I used to go forward on my previous boat and didn't mind, but one day Mr Ray Marine's friend Otto pilot tried to punt me overboard. Seeing Troy on deck though makes me feel just a bit envious of the experience he is having though.
I haven`t tried Butyl yet, still playing with Sikkaflex. It is messy, but if you let it set, then cut around the hardware and take off the excess with a sharp scraper it is much neater. I still have a roll of a rubber like compound we used to use in the gas distribution industry to seal temporary patches on steel mains, like Butyl it could be moulded to go around different shapes, and I did a temporary fill on some holes for an anchor bracket. It could still be easily removed and could have been used again after about 4 years. Enjoy Tassie, and stay warm.
www.blackwoods.com.au/gasket-material-packing-seals/bandages-anti-corrosive-pipe-repair/butyl-mastic-petrocote-pcs/c/302024384/202003636/variants Maybe you were using butylene rubber. Next time you need to re-bed something, consider butyl. I had 20 years in fishing so you know I was a fan of the black glue!
I agree with your comments. If you sail a boat you should be confident to move round the deck in any weather. I'm building a 40 foot cat and all halyards and reefing lines will be at the mast. The upside of that is your cockpit is less cluttered.
Good INFO I have used butyl tape and it's a great way to seal out water. Thanks you the reasons for moving the winches forward makes a lot of sense since you still need to go forward to tie off the sail.
thanks for that. Well timed for me, I'm re bedding some hatches with the help of butyl tape this weekend. And no, it wasn't obvious: I would've used the screw head to tighten the nut, trashing the butyl slug. So you've saved me from having to do it all again! Cheers guys.
Lots of good waterproofing tips Troy,obvious to me not turning the screws after applying the tape,but I can understand someone not being as"hands on"as you and I not realising.Nice modification with all the gear,looks perfect,and most convenient 👍🙂
I really like how you teach the reasons why you do something, such as seal the outside and not the inside! It did seem strange to hear traffic noise in your video. Keep up the great work!
Can't agree with that. As a solo sailor my life became a lot safer when I brought everything back to the cockpit on my Top Hat SEAKA. The thing that makes that possible is a sail bag and lazy jacks which you don't have and I've always wondered why not?
Another great diy/refit Troy, your tips for bedding, reefing and out of cockpit concerns are always spot-on and thought provoking. Great ratchet work Pasky...🤭 Legends!!
With reference to the spontaneous kiss, I am so glad you love Pascal, sometimes captains can be a little tough on their other half and have a working relationship without romance and love!
I do miss the refitting and modifications to the boat , it's informative education for me for my future plans. And it's a joy coming from your experience, I thank you.cheers
Yep I agree also . It’s a totally different scenario working on a sailboat at sea in comparison to working at heights. Failure in both scenarios can result in loss of life . In the sailing scenario, most of the time MOB would be mostly due to fatigue of sailor , fatigue of the Safety gear . And also not assessing the situation properly. Cockpits can be just as unsafe as the rest of the deck in certain situations, just because you out of the wind doesn’t mean you won’t cop a rogue wave over the stern . Anyways great vid as usual.
I've got less sea time, but we are on the *exact*same*page* about the adverse psychology of running lines aft to the cockpit. Always great stuff. Keep up the good work.
Agree completely. When it all goes to hell, as it invariably will at some point, it is really important to feel confident anywhere on the boat, in any conditions. Now I'm off to study Tugboat Hitches. Thanks for the home work.👍
Seems every time you fix something my shopping list shrinks. There goes a bit of deck hardware. Probably still keep a couple cleets in the oh shit bucket though. Your the second one to convince me butyl tape is worth looking into, in fact you've convinced me. Back in the 60s the move to cockpit controls became a big deal. I believe it was because some west coast California builders started building cabin tops and foredecks to look sleek and be heavily canted to drain. Yeah they she'd water well but damned near she'd sailors as well. One popular design scared the hell out of me on the Newport/Ensenada race even clipped in and that wasn't a heavy sea.
All my winches are on the mast and it works well for all the same reasons. Jammers would be better than the cleats but like I just said it works fine. A bit different on a 40ft steel Roberts, I would like a "bum" rail for three points of contact like your sitting down.
Wow, Ok. I will most likely be working my 30' sloop alone, and I really like the idea of all lines in 1 place. Refit in progress.. (winter here in Great Lakes US) Thanks for the epoxy & hardware install..Excellent. Will be looking for butyl tape as well. Fair winds.
Leaving the cockpit should be practiced, as everything which you wanna be able to pull without a hitch while being in the dark, exhausted, hung over and/or fed up with sailing in general. So yeah, I totally agree. When single handing, I sort of heave-to for reefing (tack, leave the jib backed, lash tiller to leeward). Preferably on a starboard tack for right of way and to have the halyard winch on the upside. With your hard dodger I'd consider running a jackline / lifeline (whichever is which in australia) from the center of the dodger just to the mastbase. Clip in while in the cockpit and keep it short enough to stay onboard (I guess regardless of opinions on tethers, everybody agrees that being dragged by the boat is generally a bad thing). Pointing the boat into the wind is (at least for smallish boats without furling mainsails and in my opinion) stupid. Everything is flapping like crazy, you get beaten by the jib sheets, you have to start the engine, ... I prefer to just point very high for setting/reefing/dropping the main. With decent track/cars a small sail can be set/dropped at any point of sail in light to normal conditions. And thanks for the knots, already learned the alpine butterfly and the tugboat seems superior to the clove hitch on a winch (which was taught to me for this purpose but is easily done the wrong way on a winch)
I love all the DIY explanations as they are always clear, precise and easy to understand. Not to mention very interesting, especially the introduction, use of, and reasons behind the use of the Butyl tape (spelling ?) which would have many household uses as well as waterproofing things on a boat. just wondering if the butyl tape is resistant to erosive substances such as fuels and oil ? thanks for your vids which I greatly enjoy.
Another idea is to tie small halyard at gooseneck, then pass up to reefing point on sail then back down again. This gives you 2/1 leverage to help reef main when sailing downwind.
I would have to agree with you about the psychological disadvantage. It seems in the world today there is an obsession with being safe, people seem to be obsessed about living in a risk-free world and they are uncomfortable at anything that appears unsafe. Well there is no such thing as a risk-free world if you are alive that's risky. I work in the construction industry and you should see the ridiculous rules that we have to try to accomplish our work under. They made it to the point where you almost can't do your work and it certainly has slowed us down in the production Department. What is it has actually done is create an unsafe condition where you're trying to work so fast just to keep up on production and you're worried about the safety inspector coming around that it's unsafe. I mean they're still expect you to get the same amount of work done even though you have to take 5 6 7 sometimes 8 extra steps just to guarantee that nobody will get hurt.. it's ridiculous.
Some obsessing about safety in sailing is marketing driven. Products can be used in a strategy to enable you to do things safely but they don't automatically make you safe. Nothing can be made idiot proof against a sufficiently talented idiot.
Yep, less wear and tear on systems = less maintenance/cost. Have taken others' to task on harness safety (solo), put foulies on, then harness and then jump over board (calm waters),vessel moving and try too re-board....never received a reply.... Unable to link this YW article but interesting all the same. "On too long a lead: how your lifejacket harness could kill you" and the 98 S to H had its share of fatalities, harness orientated. NOT advocating, but good seamanship is definitely the key and know your boats' idiosyncrasies in a range of conditions.
I agree with you troy, and for the same reason, I believe a Sailor should be able and WILLING to go to any part of the boat IF IT'S NEEDED.....and, in my Humble Opinion, those who don't, (or Can't), will eventually have VERY serious problems that they're not going to be able, (or willing), to handle....and that leads to the question, what happens then? do they lose the boat?.... not a good scenario.....OnWard
Only comment is that in a larger boat which is only crewed by, say, a couple such as yourselves. there may be safety issues which in the smaller boat can be managed much easier. I've crewed on boats the size of yours and on larger yachts. Not saying you're wrong, but if you're on watch on a larger yacht, not leaving the cockpit may be a major safety issue in rough seas. Agree with you completely on the subject of waterproof fastenings!
Our choice of a smaller yacht was part of the initial risk assessment for the reasons you stated. A lot of safety planning is invisible to the casual observer.
It seemed that you were mounting those wenches in locations where you had applied a rough surface material for grip. Did you sand that roughness down a bit before attaching the wench? And wouldn't it be beneficial, especially if you left the surface a little rough, to seal all the way around the fitting and not just at the screws?
On my little boat (22') iv'e gone in the opposite direction because it's very difficult to work on the cabin roof and also quite difficult to move forward on the narrow side decks. Iv'e had to develop entirely different reefing systems as well because my boat is a little cat-ketch with it's main mast right forward and sprit-booms. To pull the tack down i have a line leading forward and goes up and down through the reef tack, also when i reef , my clew lines are accessible from my hatch and i pull the reef in from there. The other way i really differ is that i have evolved a system of anchoring and de-anchoring all from the cockpit....i also stow my main anchor in the cockpit. I get your principle though of doing everything in one place and not being scared of the foredeck....i guess i was 'born' as a sailor on the narrow foredeck of an old IOR one tonner so iv'e never had that fear. One thing to really be able to do and is a genuinely good feature of some boats is the ability to heave-to. I generally reef once i have hove-to under the mizzen and that makes things so easy but there again my little cat-ketch will heave to, no problems just by leaving the helm and sheeting-in the mizzen.
Funny how many people still use Sikaflex, They think if it cost a fortune then it must be good! Butyl tape is about the cheapest you can get and outlast all the others!
At some point during sailing you will have to leave the cockpit, you're absolutely right, its having confidence and more importantly, experience in going up on deck in all conditions so you can put that fear to one side and concentrate on the task in hand. if you spend your life in the cockpit fearing going on deck it will make the situation far more stressful and ironically more dangerous when its necessary to go on deck. As long as you're capable and clipped in on deck there shouldn't be an issue, that's my 2 cents.
I think that many may say "the safety of the cockpity" when in reality they mean "the comfort of the cockpit" - but I agree that it is not the best mindset when on a boat.
Indeed. It's pretty hard to keep an eye on potentially troublesome deck and rig hardware if one is loath to leave the cockpit, regardless of what that reluctance stems from.
Nice work. I might just cover the bottom of the penetrating screws with a piece of something to protect your head from it in rough up and down seas! Just an idea!
I'm glad you spoke up about cockpit paranoia The first time I heard of people refusing to go out on the deck because of safety ,I nearly flipped my lid ! I did my first 5 years sailing my 23 foot daysailer in the 3rd most dangerous water in the world behind the Tasman Sea and Cape Horn. Yes the dreaded Lake Superior that has sunk hundreds of ships of all sizes. Being out on deck was where I had my most fun and the bigger the waves and harder the wind , the more fun it was. Back then I never socialized with other sailors and out of juvenile ignorance, I learned everything the hard way. I've since then , I've toned down a bit. but I still like your attitude about being safe and comfortable on deck in any conditions night or day. Trust your safety gear and use it. Cheers Great video.
Good vid. Sika is the seals the deal in my trade but you should stick to that tape on a boat. I am hopefully taking the wife and kids to Tassie this year to celebrate 20 years since the honeymoon there.
It surprises me that babies smell so good when reduced to a powdered form. They're not famous for being easy on the nose in the ordinary course of events ;-)
Hi Troy. When working through the best options for your main reefing system, did you consider and then discount a single line reefing arrangment? Or was it simply a case of using what you have more effectively? I've only ever used the single line system once (on a Hanse 40ish) and was quite surprised how effective, and quick, it was. Though, I'll admit, once I studied how it was set up, I wasn't too keen on the added complexity it brought with additional hardware inside the boom leading to a difficult repair should anything gave way while underway.
I just like simple systems. They suit my temperament better. It's a hangover from being ships engineer too long! Single line works well, just requires a bit more complexity and you will have plenty of space to stow all that line in your cockpit when fully reefed!
They're not very popular with sailors in Australia and more particularly in the windy parts of NZ. Like the little girl with the curl in the middle of her forehead, "When they're good, they're very very good, But when they are bad, they are horrid!"
www.blackwoods.com.au/gasket-material-packing-seals/bandages-anti-corrosive-pipe-repair/butyl-mastic-petrocote-pcs/c/302024384/202003636/variants Bunnings also has some in their roof flashing section ( try aisle 7) 😉
for at least 50 years I have been trying to talk my customers out of leading everything to the cockpit. Thank You.
NOT turning the screw: this is where most people make their mistake. If you turn the screw, you are creating a path for water. Turning it a Little Bit is ok- it distributes the sealant more evenly. We just try to never do a full turn or more. You did not mention how critical it is to have the screw cut exactly to length when using Acorn nuts, but the screw end should not bottom out in the domed nut before it is snug enough. If it isn't, adding more washers works too.
"Don't they need backup plates? Don't they need fender washers?" Not really, their deck is plywood. Backup plates are fine, just ensure they don't have any hard spots or sharp corners. With all due respect to my hero Nigel Calder, I have found that King StarBoard actually is the Best material for backup plates (he doesn't agree).
What do you call the "chamfering" process? I call it 'relieving' the edges of the holes. I have never drilled any hole in any deck (regardless of the deck material) without relieving both ends of the hole, practically since I started boatwork. In addition to the "hourglass", doing this will help prevent Gelcoat Crazing. Another way to prevent leaks is to try the fitting without sealant first, and ensure that all the bolts or machine screws will DROP THROUGH the holes. Any through bolt which has to be screwed into its hole, will probably leak. "Don't the holes need to be exactly the right diameter of the bolt?" NO, this is Boatbuilding, not the space station. The holes should allow all the bolts to slip right through, and no larger. They will all find their happy place and be fine. Drilling punky holes out 2x size, filling w epoxy, and re-drilling is a step that too many people skip. It is absolutely the best thing to do.
Obviously, I am not talking about wood - or sheet metal screws when I say the holes should be oversize, but pilots for those should Never make the screw very difficult to drive. Relieve those holes a bit as well. Driving wood or sheet metal screws with a power tool is an understandable rookie mistake.The result is an overtightened (compromised) screw, with the head chingered up so it will cut the shit out of anyone within striking distance. SAFE boats don't have chingered screw heads everywhere (easy to sand and fix if U do). If a screw is difficult to drive, use a brace. There are times when you can power drive a screw, if Lou at Totalboat is doing it, you can too. Notice those professionals use bits that fit their screws.
Forgive me, but I Strongly believe that mounting something, then coming back later to re-tighten the nuts, is simply an old wive's tale. I used to do it, because I was told to do it, by someone else who was told to do it, etc, but when I stopped doing it, I stopped creating leaks. Do all the tightening in the first go, then leave it. I just as strongly believe that using Butyl Tape is 100% legitimate.
I happen to prefer conventional caulk over Butyl Tape. My first choice is Always Boatlife LifeCaulk. Sometimes this particular polysulfide is incompatible with certain plastics (esp vinyls), but not always. I don't really care if some people can't make it work, but I have bedded lots of King StarBoard in Lifecaulk, with zero problems. Mounting to Aluminum, LifeCaulk is the BEST insulator I have ever found, Bar None. I never use "gaskets" under hardware on aluminum to insulate, most gaskets provided by the manufacturers are thrown in the rubbish. If I am screwing or bolting something to wood (even plywood), LifeCaulk, is the closest thing I've found to being "oil base" (it's not), which is best for hard- or softwoods. If I have to do any gap-filling, I usually use Sudbury (Rule) Elastomeric Sealant. This stuff is so mondo after curing that it will actually create a shim to make everything look and fit great. Black is always going to last longer out in the sun than white or clear. I never use 52million, I just don't believe anything is really "permanent".
***
Running before the wind, putting in a reef, I have always just swung the nose up and hove-to. There is no law that says you cannot heave-to with the jib on the pole. It is much easier on the battens that are bending around the aft lower shroud. All you would have had to do in this case is turn left. Reefed. And turned right. Easy.
Thank You for letting me comment. I happen to think you are very sensible.
Oops, I guess that I actually Do use 52million, where chainplates penetrate decks. Doesn't pay to be so damn dogmatic now, does it?
Well, there's so much great info there, we better pin your comment so others can benefit too. Thanks for such a valuable contribution.
Have you considered writing a book? Please do!
All lines led aft. A trend created by other trends. When cruising boats mimic racing boats with extremely asymmetrical shape, narrow fore decks, everything bubble shaped. But now the house is bigger and side decks are narrower, and there is an anchor on a bow roller with a 100 meters of chain rode below it in the forepeak. Now she's running down wind overpowered. The bow wants to plunge. The rear wants to surf. Big following seas are trying to push her around and yaw the ruder out. Oddly, no one wants to go forward.
@@parkerfilms1 A cookbook!
Agree completely, it's critical to have the confidence to deal with things on deck when they need to be dealt with. When things get tough (which they will) is not the time to feel forced beyond the comfort of the cockpit.
Having stubbornly retained the "reef at the mast" system on the '66 Alberg 35 I've called home for 31 years, I am greatly appreciative of your solid seamanship points about being comfortable going forward. I would add that only by moving about in all conditions are you likely to catch a small problem before it becomes a large problem.
Mine is an old fashioned worm gear "patent roller reefing" round boom. With the help of a great sail maker, I learned to create a lace-on luff main sail with a foam foot pocket that keeps sail shape at any depth reef. With my low aspect sloop rig this has been instrumental in using the wind vane to steer a well balanced sail plan in any wind. The scoffing of the Wednesday night race crowd is further affirmation of the simple beauty of this setup. As I age, the only muck up I allow myself to dream of might be a cordless drill chuck to drive the boom worm gear.
As a commercial vessel naval architect and marine engineer I am really enjoying your solid practical advice and no nonsense approach. Half a world away, the fix- everything, solid old boat philosophy resonates clearly and is antivenom to the "fixit with the phone or throw it away" modern world. Our common gift from the work boat world is an immunity to the whims of fashion that commonly over rule seamanship judgement in the yacht industry.
I skippered a 30 meter classic ketch. It took an effort of willpower to leave (or get crew to leave) the comfort of the pilot house in nasty weather. But on my own boat (a 1981 First 42) I have the same problem you had; one person at the mast and one in the cockpit to manage the halyard. Most of the boats that I teach on have lazy packs, single line reefing lines to the cockpit and it makes life much easier. (Psychology is not my strong suite). Thanks for the butyl tape demo. I'll use it! I'm 77 YO now and am thinking about getting a smaller boat, but not giving up on sailing. Appreciate your YT work. Keep it up and keep us informed.
@Tony F There are non-maddening cities?
I like the “hourglass” idea. Kinda like a rivet. I’ll put that in the memory.
Definitely, a channel that teaches about all aspects of sailing. Nicely done. Thank you.
I agree completely if you dont ever want to leave the cockpit then stay on your couch. Cheers love your channel hello from Canada.
I was on warships. There were times when on deck meant dead. True I wished I was on a couch.
@@philgray1023 you are comparing warships to sailboats really!!
I agree wholeheartedly but one time for me I was taking off the whisker pole and we didn't have it on there right and we were in pretty rough sees and that had me scared in the back of my mind all the time about leaving the cockpit but after that I got very comfortable with leaving the cockpit cuz I knew I could do the job
Fascinating, so glad you made that video. 1. A mate Rob gave me my long roll of butyl tape and it just works superbly and the vessel is much drier for it. 2. I've been secretly wanting to change my reefing systems back to the cockpit for safety when solo on my Lotus 9.2, how to do that has kept me awake, so many complications involved, but you have successfully changed my mind on the absolute necessity of that. So Cheers!
one thing I could say about that boat its sure does have one hell of an owner and take damn good care of it
Dear both, wife and myself really enjoy you two lovebirds. We have a larger boat and reefing is done from the cockpit, this is important for us not because we are afraid of going up there, but because the sails are so much more difficult to handle. Hence we tend to reef sooner... We are not always crewed more than the two of us. I do agree with your ideas on the psychology of it all. Fear can be a problem in itself. Much love, Bi&Mike
Thank you for the kind words. Every sailor should do as suits themself is our message. We never say this or that way is the correct way because we know how different each person is and each ocean provides its own challenges. Good luck and happy sailing.
I agree on the working oneself up needlessly about going forward. The other negative of that mindset is getting complacent, by thinking "the safety of the cockpit" is inviolate, and not clipping in as you come up the companionway in adverse conditions
I moved all of my reefing lines to the mast for the same reason of one stop shopping. I single hand on a beneteau first 45.6 it has made my life easier.
I reef 100% from the cockpit. Literally in seconds, just push the button and the rollers do the rest. The same for raising the main.
Thanks Troy for the plug glad I could help
Troy, you talked about not having a balsa cored deck so just drilling holes and using Butyl tape is enough but if you had a balsa cored deck, I would have drilled the holes oversized, filled it with epoxy in an hourglass shape like you did and then come back and drilled into the centre of the now solid epoxy so if any water did get by the Butyl tape, it won't soak your balsa core. As you said, any small leak can be disastrous to the balsa core which can result in delaminating the deck and a major repair effort. On my old 29' boat (since sold) I had a bit of this and was able to repair the balsa core by putting a 90 degree bent Allen key into my drill and using it between the layers to get at all the old rotten balsa and then filled it under pressure with epoxy and filler. Those repairs lasted for the near 20 years I had the boat without another drop of water coming through. Great episode as always.
Good thinking about having the winches closer to the mast, makes a lot of sense. 🏴👍
Opinion well said. I remember reading about a couple so frightened to leave the cockpit during an Atlantic crossing they let the CQR swing on it's chain for days ultimately holing the boat ,not going forward until they were in coastal waters. People should watch footage of Bernard Moitessier during the first single handed round the world race to see what a real offshore sailor is all about.
I can't imagine the mental state induced by what sounds like a lunatic with an axe at the bow!
Troy just has a way of instructing things that makes seance and the hints to assure the job is done right the first time are fantastic. Paccar uses butel tape to seal the windshields in Peterbuilt trucks because it doesn't attract moisture like silicone does. Good job Troy and Pascal.
Interesting info about the use in windscreens and moisture attraction of silicone. Another thing learned.
@@FreeRangeLiving Yes auto's use urethane to seal for that same reason. It's harder to use but much better.
Lots of good info there Troy, and a timely reminder of things to be aware of before I get stuck into our refit before summer.
Thank you, I also own an approximately 50 year old 30 ft sailboat (1973 Alberg 30) which I sail singlehandedly and do all my reefing at the mast. I did ditch the rams horn and replaced it with a snap shackle which works much better for me. As a stoicist I belive the longest and the shortest life will end the same way and will be finished for the same eternity.
After 20 years of fishing and commercial diving, not to mention demolition and tree work, I figure every year I still have is a bonus!
That's a very pretty old boat you own Daniel. Alberts 30s are great.
Really good advice well put across as always. It doesn’t matter what you two are doing, sailing, fishing, diving or just basic maintenance you always make it interesting. Oh, mustn’t forget Pascale’s cooking, that’s always fantastic.
Truly enjoy the technical/educational videos. I know more about marine engines, sailing techniques and kimchi preparation than I EVER did! 😁👍
Lol
I am so sad. I finished binge watching your channel so I have to wait a whole week for another video. As always, you give great demonstrations on your DIY projects. Just one small comment, when you show a new knot could you do it a bit slower.
Keep up the great work.
Do you realise there's a control at the bottom of the youTube window which lets you slow down (or speed up) a video? It's a cinch for temporary slomo on demand.
@@Gottenhimfella thanks
Love it when repairs, or improvements, are getting done. In fact, l love the whole adventure. Thank you.
I like the way you think. You always are thinking about making the boat the best it can be. Just like a land based home if you don't keep up with maintenance & improvements it will fall apart around you. Good video.
I've said this before, but I'll say it again - Troy, you are so lucky to have Pascal as a partner! Not only is she a beautiful person, who loves cooking AND sailing, she can also help with boat maintenance! (Has she got any sisters who are looking for an LTR ?? ;)
Totally agree with the you on the cockpit issue . My Alberg 30 is rigged as such , just clip on when required and carry on with the task at hand. Keep a weather eye and reef prior to the foul weather when ever possible.Great work you two
Great video, especially helpful as I am about to re-bed all my deck fittings. On the subject of bringing lines back to the cockpit. I have in-mast roller reefing and all lines come back to the cockpit. Last summer I was putting the boat name on my dinghy and stood up awkwardly which was the last straw for my knee which hadn’t been right since a long haul flight. That meant I could not walk. Not one step, it was just too painful. But I was able to sail the boat 25 miles home without getting up from a sitting position in the cockpit.
That's a nice argument for your reefing system. I've heard junk rigs also are very manageable without too much running around.
Free Range Sailing yes I am quite happy with my in-mast reefing even though it must be at least 30 years old. Many people hate it because the sail has to be cut flatter but I still beat 20 other boats of the same make and type in a race last year. Most of those had traditional mainsails.
@@Sailing_Antrice Who wants to race. I was wary of in mast furling, but got a boom furler just because it was on the boat already. Same thing, I can furl 100% in the cockpit, but when I stuff it up I can still drop the sail on deck then tie it up. I used to go forward on my previous boat and didn't mind, but one day Mr Ray Marine's friend Otto pilot tried to punt me overboard. Seeing Troy on deck though makes me feel just a bit envious of the experience he is having though.
I haven`t tried Butyl yet, still playing with Sikkaflex. It is messy, but if you let it set, then cut around the hardware and take off the excess with a sharp scraper it is much neater. I still have a roll of a rubber like compound we used to use in the gas distribution industry to seal temporary patches on steel mains, like Butyl it could be moulded to go around different shapes, and I did a temporary fill on some holes for an anchor bracket. It could still be easily removed and could have been used again after about 4 years. Enjoy Tassie, and stay warm.
www.blackwoods.com.au/gasket-material-packing-seals/bandages-anti-corrosive-pipe-repair/butyl-mastic-petrocote-pcs/c/302024384/202003636/variants
Maybe you were using butylene rubber. Next time you need to re-bed something, consider butyl. I had 20 years in fishing so you know I was a fan of the black glue!
Great practical How-to on bedding deck fittings! Even I could follow it.
I agree with your comments. If you sail a boat you should be confident to move round the deck in any weather. I'm building a 40 foot cat and all halyards and reefing lines will be at the mast. The upside of that is your cockpit is less cluttered.
An uncluttered cockpit is a delight not to be underestimated!
Good INFO I have used butyl tape and it's a great way to seal out water. Thanks you the reasons for moving the winches forward makes a lot of sense since you still need to go forward to tie off the sail.
I like it. The mentality in my opinion is correct. Creating more fear is a hindrance to the accomplishment of any goal.
thanks for that. Well timed for me, I'm re bedding some hatches with the help of butyl tape this weekend. And no, it wasn't obvious: I would've used the screw head to tighten the nut, trashing the butyl slug. So you've saved me from having to do it all again! Cheers guys.
Music to our ears. Good luck!
Lots of good waterproofing tips Troy,obvious to me not turning the screws after applying the tape,but I can understand someone not being as"hands on"as you and I not realising.Nice modification with all the gear,looks perfect,and most convenient 👍🙂
I really like how you teach the reasons why you do something, such as seal the outside and not the inside! It did seem strange to hear traffic noise in your video. Keep up the great work!
Can't agree with that. As a solo sailor my life became a lot safer when I brought everything back to the cockpit on my Top Hat SEAKA. The thing that makes that possible is a sail bag and lazy jacks which you don't have and I've always wondered why not?
We had lazy jacks but removed them. Disagreeing is fine, everyone needs to think things through and do what suits them.
Another great diy/refit Troy, your tips for bedding, reefing and out of cockpit concerns are always spot-on and thought provoking. Great ratchet work Pasky...🤭 Legends!!
With reference to the spontaneous kiss, I am so glad you love Pascal, sometimes captains can be a little tough on their other half and have a working relationship without romance and love!
I agree completely-My boat was the same-drove me crazy-moved everything back to the mast.
I do miss the refitting and modifications to the boat , it's informative education for me for my future plans. And it's a joy coming from your experience, I thank you.cheers
Great episode- the another advantage of the dumbbell penetration is the shape gives a greater adhesion surface.
Yep I agree also . It’s a totally different scenario working on a sailboat at sea in comparison to working at heights.
Failure in both scenarios can result in loss of life .
In the sailing scenario, most of the time MOB would be mostly due to fatigue of sailor , fatigue of the Safety gear . And also not assessing the situation properly.
Cockpits can be just as unsafe as the rest of the deck in certain situations, just because you out of the wind doesn’t mean you won’t cop a rogue wave over the stern . Anyways great vid as usual.
Totally agree with your two cents worth! Great channel cheers from the UK
Troy, +1 on feeling comfortable on the deck!
Great video and spot on.
Thank you for such clear explanations.love it!
Great video! Very informative and detailed. Looking forward to more refit videos like this! Cheers
Completely agree. The more fear one breeds on their boat, the less one will be able to deal with extraordinary hardship when it comes.
I've got less sea time, but we are on the *exact*same*page* about the adverse psychology of running lines aft to the cockpit. Always great stuff. Keep up the good work.
There's a lot of little things that go into sea safety. Most of it isn't visible and we think it takes a fairly holistic approach.
Agree completely. When it all goes to hell, as it invariably will at some point, it is really important to feel confident anywhere on the boat, in any conditions. Now I'm off to study Tugboat Hitches. Thanks for the home work.👍
Great vid, great tips & am also a fan of the miracle butyl tape..👍
Seems every time you fix something my shopping list shrinks. There goes a bit of deck hardware. Probably still keep a couple cleets in the oh shit bucket though. Your the second one to convince me butyl tape is worth looking into, in fact you've convinced me. Back in the 60s the move to cockpit controls became a big deal. I believe it was because some west coast California builders started building cabin tops and foredecks to look sleek and be heavily canted to drain. Yeah they she'd water well but damned near she'd sailors as well. One popular design scared the hell out of me on the Newport/Ensenada race even clipped in and that wasn't a heavy sea.
All my winches are on the mast and it works well for all the same reasons. Jammers would be better than the cleats but like I just said it works fine. A bit different on a 40ft steel Roberts, I would like a "bum" rail for three points of contact like your sitting down.
Aye m8's, great subject! Good to hear your opinion on this and to see the result. 👍
Good to hear your advice on butyl tape. I scored a roll for $2 at Reverse Garbage, but wasn't sure on the application.
Very beautiful 😍👍
Wow, Ok. I will most likely be working my 30' sloop alone, and I really like the idea of all lines in 1 place. Refit in progress.. (winter here in Great Lakes US) Thanks for the epoxy & hardware install..Excellent. Will be looking for butyl tape as well. Fair winds.
Butyl tape is available from Amazon, it is popular with RVers also.
If you've got cash single line reefing is pretty cool.
Great informative video again as usual. Love watching your videos and can't wait for each new episode.
Leaving the cockpit should be practiced, as everything which you wanna be able to pull without a hitch while being in the dark, exhausted, hung over and/or fed up with sailing in general. So yeah, I totally agree.
When single handing, I sort of heave-to for reefing (tack, leave the jib backed, lash tiller to leeward). Preferably on a starboard tack for right of way and to have the halyard winch on the upside. With your hard dodger I'd consider running a jackline / lifeline (whichever is which in australia) from the center of the dodger just to the mastbase. Clip in while in the cockpit and keep it short enough to stay onboard (I guess regardless of opinions on tethers, everybody agrees that being dragged by the boat is generally a bad thing).
Pointing the boat into the wind is (at least for smallish boats without furling mainsails and in my opinion) stupid. Everything is flapping like crazy, you get beaten by the jib sheets, you have to start the engine, ... I prefer to just point very high for setting/reefing/dropping the main. With decent track/cars a small sail can be set/dropped at any point of sail in light to normal conditions.
And thanks for the knots, already learned the alpine butterfly and the tugboat seems superior to the clove hitch on a winch (which was taught to me for this purpose but is easily done the wrong way on a winch)
Nice comment about reefing on a starboard tack to have right of way. Never thought of that.
@@FreeRangeLiving yeah, me neither. got good mentors though :-)
I love all the DIY explanations as they are always clear, precise and easy to understand. Not to mention very interesting, especially the introduction, use of, and reasons behind the use of the Butyl tape (spelling ?) which would have many household uses as well as waterproofing things on a boat. just wondering if the butyl tape is resistant to erosive substances such as fuels and oil ? thanks for your vids which I greatly enjoy.
Not for use in fuel systems. Can handle quite a few substances though:
mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart
Another idea is to tie small halyard at gooseneck, then pass up to reefing point on sail then back down again. This gives you 2/1 leverage to help reef main when sailing downwind.
Our friend reefs using a modified Cunningham. Very efficient.
Sage advice as ever! Thanks guys 👍
I would have to agree with you about the psychological disadvantage. It seems in the world today there is an obsession with being safe, people seem to be obsessed about living in a risk-free world and they are uncomfortable at anything that appears unsafe. Well there is no such thing as a risk-free world if you are alive that's risky. I work in the construction industry and you should see the ridiculous rules that we have to try to accomplish our work under. They made it to the point where you almost can't do your work and it certainly has slowed us down in the production Department. What is it has actually done is create an unsafe condition where you're trying to work so fast just to keep up on production and you're worried about the safety inspector coming around that it's unsafe. I mean they're still expect you to get the same amount of work done even though you have to take 5 6 7 sometimes 8 extra steps just to guarantee that nobody will get hurt.. it's ridiculous.
And don't forget the risk assessment before you even start the job!
Some obsessing about safety in sailing is marketing driven. Products can be used in a strategy to enable you to do things safely but they don't automatically make you safe. Nothing can be made idiot proof against a sufficiently talented idiot.
@@victormorris3680 right! Every step and documented. Lol.
@@FreeRangeLiving I believe it. I think most of ours is insurance driven.
That boom repair is still holding up well. Maybe you don't need to replace it!
Haha. It gets a few odd looks..
Yep, less wear and tear on systems = less maintenance/cost.
Have taken others' to task on harness safety (solo), put foulies on, then harness and then jump over board (calm waters),vessel moving and try too re-board....never received a reply....
Unable to link this YW article but interesting all the same.
"On too long a lead: how your lifejacket harness could kill you"
and the 98 S to H had its share of fatalities, harness orientated.
NOT advocating, but good seamanship is definitely the key and know your boats' idiosyncrasies in a range of conditions.
Hour-glass epoxy plug 👍 Nice work!
I agree with you troy, and for the same reason, I believe a Sailor should be able and WILLING to go to any part of the boat IF IT'S NEEDED.....and, in my Humble Opinion, those who don't, (or Can't), will eventually have VERY serious problems that they're not going to be able, (or willing), to handle....and that leads to the question, what happens then? do they lose the boat?.... not a good scenario.....OnWard
You know I finished your sentence “what the” great tip, thanks
Great informative content as always guys...keep up the great videos.
More great information, well delivered!! Thanks!
Hope it's useful and 2020 is on the up for you mate.
Love your work guys
Good tips there Troy. Fair winds & regards from the UK.
That channel you reported is a bot. Don't click it on it to look at the channel if you like your computer.
Great job as always. It seems a Sailor's work is never done. ⛵
Another great video, thank u both. Cheers n beers.
I really learn a lot from you guy's. Thank you.
Only comment is that in a larger boat which is only crewed by, say, a couple such as yourselves. there may be safety issues which in the smaller boat can be managed much easier. I've crewed on boats the size of yours and on larger yachts. Not saying you're wrong, but if you're on watch on a larger yacht, not leaving the cockpit may be a major safety issue in rough seas. Agree with you completely on the subject of waterproof fastenings!
Our choice of a smaller yacht was part of the initial risk assessment for the reasons you stated. A lot of safety planning is invisible to the casual observer.
Excellent as usual!!!
Nice one Troy.
It seemed that you were mounting those wenches in locations where you had applied a rough surface material for grip. Did you sand that roughness down a bit before attaching the wench? And wouldn't it be beneficial, especially if you left the surface a little rough, to seal all the way around the fitting and not just at the screws?
Interresting to watch. Thank you!
On my little boat (22') iv'e gone in the opposite direction because it's very difficult to work on the cabin roof and also quite difficult to move forward on the narrow side decks. Iv'e had to develop entirely different reefing systems as well because my boat is a little cat-ketch with it's main mast right forward and sprit-booms. To pull the tack down i have a line leading forward and goes up and down through the reef tack, also when i reef , my clew lines are accessible from my hatch and i pull the reef in from there. The other way i really differ is that i have evolved a system of anchoring and de-anchoring all from the cockpit....i also stow my main anchor in the cockpit. I get your principle though of doing everything in one place and not being scared of the foredeck....i guess i was 'born' as a sailor on the narrow foredeck of an old IOR one tonner so iv'e never had that fear. One thing to really be able to do and is a genuinely good feature of some boats is the ability to heave-to. I generally reef once i have hove-to under the mizzen and that makes things so easy but there again my little cat-ketch will heave to, no problems just by leaving the helm and sheeting-in the mizzen.
A god example of thinking out your own solutions that suit you, your boat and the dangers that might arise.
Funny how many people still use Sikaflex, They think if it cost a fortune then it must be good! Butyl tape is about the cheapest you can get and outlast all the others!
At some point during sailing you will have to leave the cockpit, you're absolutely right, its having confidence and more importantly, experience in going up on deck in all conditions so you can put that fear to one side and concentrate on the task in hand. if you spend your life in the cockpit fearing going on deck it will make the situation far more stressful and ironically more dangerous when its necessary to go on deck.
As long as you're capable and clipped in on deck there shouldn't be an issue, that's my 2 cents.
nice video thanks
I think that many may say "the safety of the cockpity" when in reality they mean "the comfort of the cockpit" - but I agree that it is not the best mindset when on a boat.
Indeed. It's pretty hard to keep an eye on potentially troublesome deck and rig hardware if one is loath to leave the cockpit, regardless of what that reluctance stems from.
Looking at 2 clansman I love the boat. Let me know when you are in Sydney, would love to meet up
The old saying :- "Cleanliness is next to Godliness" holds true when working on redoing sealing deck fittings.
Well said dude, err I mean "good on ya mate" you said it!
Nice work. I might just cover the bottom of the penetrating screws with a piece of something to protect your head from it in rough up and down seas! Just an idea!
The acorn nuts do a god job
I'm glad you spoke up about cockpit paranoia The first time I heard of people refusing to go out on the deck because of safety ,I nearly flipped my lid ! I did my first 5 years sailing my 23 foot daysailer in the 3rd most dangerous water in the world behind the Tasman Sea and Cape Horn. Yes the dreaded Lake Superior that has sunk hundreds of ships of all sizes. Being out on deck was where I had my most fun and the bigger the waves and harder the wind , the more fun it was. Back then I never socialized with other sailors and out of juvenile ignorance, I learned everything the hard way. I've since then , I've toned down a bit. but I still like your attitude about being safe and comfortable on deck in any conditions night or day. Trust your safety gear and use it. Cheers Great video.
Love ya work!
Good vid. Sika is the seals the deal in my trade but you should stick to that tape on a boat. I am hopefully taking the wife and kids to Tassie this year to celebrate 20 years since the honeymoon there.
Yep, sika is here to stay but that tape is very good on a boat and quick! Congratulations on 20 years legend.
Another great lesson from the Master. Love your work mate, looking forward to the next one. Cheers for now... ;-}
My oversight. Sorry. I dud not pick that up! Keep well!
hmmmm, i really like your DIY projects and the videos abouth your work = thumbsUP
my best regards
Troy, hi, maybe it d been good to use a hardwood base to tighten winch nuts ...?..nice tugboat hitch love it...saludos suerte
They are installed the same way as has worked for the last 50 years!
@@FreeRangeLiving just saying ..saludos Buena suerte.!
Looks like you used baby powder for thickening the epoxy. I like baby powder, if you have to sand the epoxy later it always smells good : )
It surprises me that babies smell so good when reduced to a powdered form.
They're not famous for being easy on the nose in the ordinary course of events ;-)
Hi Troy. When working through the best options for your main reefing system, did you consider and then discount a single line reefing arrangment? Or was it simply a case of using what you have more effectively?
I've only ever used the single line system once (on a Hanse 40ish) and was quite surprised how effective, and quick, it was. Though, I'll admit, once I studied how it was set up, I wasn't too keen on the added complexity it brought with additional hardware inside the boom leading to a difficult repair should anything gave way while underway.
I just like simple systems. They suit my temperament better. It's a hangover from being ships engineer too long! Single line works well, just requires a bit more complexity and you will have plenty of space to stow all that line in your cockpit when fully reefed!
They're not very popular with sailors in Australia and more particularly in the windy parts of NZ. Like the little girl with the curl in the middle of her forehead,
"When they're good, they're very very good,
But when they are bad, they are horrid!"
I've been looking for beutal tape in Aus for a while ,couple of years. And know one knows of it
www.blackwoods.com.au/gasket-material-packing-seals/bandages-anti-corrosive-pipe-repair/butyl-mastic-petrocote-pcs/c/302024384/202003636/variants
Bunnings also has some in their roof flashing section ( try aisle 7) 😉