I noted that it can occur when I put a big router bit and the speed is more than 3, the vibration is very high. When I use a little router bit it works very well.
According to Triton's documentation, removing the spring when using the router as an bench router is correct. I have the same problems with my router. If I don't fix the locking lever, the cutter lowers during use. I always need to fix the locking lever. If there is another option I would be interested in.
I made exactly the same observation. I got used to always fix the position with the lever. However, my expectation when l got the router was that it stays in position.
I’m having the same problem, the router drifts away from the depth I’ve set. The problem with using the clamp is that if I have to make a micro adjustment, once unclamped, the router spring jolts the unit to a lower height - ie, the drifting has still occurred by vibrating the spring even while clamped. So therefore trying to dial in the correct setting is a frustrating game of back n forth
I lifted my plate out today and examined how everything is set. It LOOKS like mine is exactly like yours: Plunge Lock Lever (11) hanging loose, Plunge Selection Button (18) OUT, Winder Handle Clutch Ring (17) OUT, Depth Stop (3) locked in retracted position. Since these are the only parts that can control (or fail to control) the position, I'm guessing the problem/difference is with this area. Perhaps try depressing the button (18), move the position then release the button. Then pull in the ring (17), move the position and then release. Make sure that everything "clicks" positively. With the button out and the ring out, it should be impossible to change the position manually by pulling/pushing (except for a small amount of "slop"). If you can move it manually and you're sure everything clicked properly into place then I'd say something is broken or stuck inside that handle. The mechanism feels crude but positive - both parts leave no doubt when they "click" properly into the "locked" position. The only annoyance I have is with the power switched safety feature - the spindle won't automatically lock when you wind the body up to maximum height for a tool change unless the switch has been set to "off" - which means you're always obliged to open the box either to do that or to press the spindle lock manually. Good luck!
Mine doesn't move and I don't use the lever to clamp it. When I get to work on Monday I'll try to figure out how mine is set that may be different on yours. I think it's something to do with the Winder Handle (parts 17, 18 and 19 in the manual).
Thanks for your feedback. The same occurred to me. A couple of people on Instagram said that it seems you have to clamp the lever to fix the router in place.
Use the clamp as that is what holds the router motor in your desired adjustment. That locking lever is to be used no mater what the orientation you want to use the router.
I’m having the same problem, the router drifts away from the depth I’ve set. The problem with using the clamp is that if I have to make a micro adjustment, once unclamped, the router spring jolts the unit to a lower height - ie, the drifting has still occurred by vibrating the spring even while clamped. So therefore trying to dial in the correct setting is a frustrating game of back n forth
I have to lock it every time and it makes perfect sense to me. Weight of router itself is pulling it down and even more, material being routed is pressing top of the blade, pushing it down. If you add vibrations of router while working on top of all that - it all makes perfect sense that router will sink unless locked.
Hello, that's probably not the problem but did you remove the spring?
I did.
I noted that it can occur when I put a big router bit and the speed is more than 3, the vibration is very high. When I use a little router bit it works very well.
According to Triton's documentation, removing the spring when using the router as an bench router is correct. I have the same problems with my router. If I don't fix the locking lever, the cutter lowers during use. I always need to fix the locking lever. If there is another option I would be interested in.
Thanks for the feedback - on Instagram, several people said they have to fix the lever as well. So that’s what we have to do, it seems.
hi there. i did the same, removed the spring and since then never used the clamp again. works very well like that. good luck and have a nice sunday 👋🏻
I made exactly the same observation. I got used to always fix the position with the lever. However, my expectation when l got the router was that it stays in position.
I’m having the same problem, the router drifts away from the depth I’ve set. The problem with using the clamp is that if I have to make a micro adjustment, once unclamped, the router spring jolts the unit to a lower height - ie, the drifting has still occurred by vibrating the spring even while clamped. So therefore trying to dial in the correct setting is a frustrating game of back n forth
I lifted my plate out today and examined how everything is set. It LOOKS like mine is exactly like yours: Plunge Lock Lever (11) hanging loose, Plunge Selection Button (18) OUT, Winder Handle Clutch Ring (17) OUT, Depth Stop (3) locked in retracted position. Since these are the only parts that can control (or fail to control) the position, I'm guessing the problem/difference is with this area. Perhaps try depressing the button (18), move the position then release the button. Then pull in the ring (17), move the position and then release. Make sure that everything "clicks" positively. With the button out and the ring out, it should be impossible to change the position manually by pulling/pushing (except for a small amount of "slop"). If you can move it manually and you're sure everything clicked properly into place then I'd say something is broken or stuck inside that handle. The mechanism feels crude but positive - both parts leave no doubt when they "click" properly into the "locked" position.
The only annoyance I have is with the power switched safety feature - the spindle won't automatically lock when you wind the body up to maximum height for a tool change unless the switch has been set to "off" - which means you're always obliged to open the box either to do that or to press the spindle lock manually.
Good luck!
Thanks for testing and your detailed write-up. I’ll have to wait for the weekend to test it out in my router. Thanks again!
Thank you for the information.
Resolviste el problema, a mí me pasa lo mismo
You solved the problem, the same thing happens to me
Mine doesn't move and I don't use the lever to clamp it. When I get to work on Monday I'll try to figure out how mine is set that may be different on yours. I think it's something to do with the Winder Handle (parts 17, 18 and 19 in the manual).
Thanks for this tip -I’ll check out the manual for those parts.
It's the plastic shaft
It needs to be clamped, however be aware to release before using the handle to adjust from the top
Thanks for your feedback!
I have the same issue I now always lock the router using the locking lever.
Ok. Thanks for the feedback.
I have the same problem.
Actually I became aware of it after some cuts which destroyed some good material.
Thanks for your feedback. The same occurred to me.
A couple of people on Instagram said that it seems you have to clamp the lever to fix the router in place.
Use the clamp as that is what holds the router motor in your desired adjustment. That locking lever is to be used no mater what the orientation you want to use the router.
Thanks for your feedback!
I’m having the same problem, the router drifts away from the depth I’ve set. The problem with using the clamp is that if I have to make a micro adjustment, once unclamped, the router spring jolts the unit to a lower height - ie, the drifting has still occurred by vibrating the spring even while clamped. So therefore trying to dial in the correct setting is a frustrating game of back n forth
Yes, same here, you have to tighten the clamp.
Thanks for your feedback
I have to lock it every time and it makes perfect sense to me. Weight of router itself is pulling it down and even more, material being routed is pressing top of the blade, pushing it down. If you add vibrations of router while working on top of all that - it all makes perfect sense that router will sink unless locked.
Thanks for your feedback. Makes sense.