How To Rewire A Riding Lawn Mower SUPER EASY..!!
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2020
- #IgnitionSwitch #LawnTractor #RidingMower #JoshBrown
How To Rewire Your Ignition Switch The Easy Way.
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I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Straight to the point. Thank you.
I can never get back the minutes I lost watching this video I know less now than I did before I started watching😂😂 except for the grounds I got that, but I had that before so
If the ignition switch has an "S" terminal (MOST do), you don't connect the solenoid to the "I" terminal (Ignition). VERY messy and incorrect. You can mis-wire, as here in this video, and it will still work, but wiring in a charging wire to the "R" (regulator) terminal, and running an ammeter in that circuit, will assure you are getting the battery charged while the engine runs.
I love this video. Thanks.
You re the man. I’ve looked forever for this simple video
Thank you sir I appreciate this immensely
Thanks this is what I was looking for a simple and clear explanation of every wire I appreciate it
Pretty good video feller🤘🙉🙈🙊🇺🇸
Good job genius
In this wiring sequence, where does the anti backfire solenoid go?
Thanks
We’re do I wire my orange wire to Bc it don’t go anywhere???
A problem I am having and maybe you have the answers to it
My key ignition switch is broken and I would like to know how to use what's all ready there by the factory to install a few toggle switches to the harness were the keyed ignition switch once was don't know how the circuit goes together color codes and all oooppps for got a big peace it is a 7 posted switch were all these wire go to work and it was made by arians maybe not important and it's got a Briggs maybe again not important but it may help
Thank you in advance
I can.t tell which wire going to what all I see is a bunch of mixed up wiring. I'm trying to figure out where the red wire that's coming out of the harness where you turn the key over ...where it runs down and connects to what?
Nice vid bro! Im doing this to my mud mower too!!!
i know I am pretty randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to watch new movies online ?
Netflix?
@Edison Payton i use flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
So I have a 2000’s craftsman lt1000 with a Briggs 18hp ohv. The starter is shot and a lot of ground wires are cut that go to the seat safety feature. I want to just connect the battery to the magneto so I can have spark to pull start it. How can I just wire that up or what do I need to get rid of
To pull start it you don’t need a battery. Think about a simple push mower. Assuming you do not have an electronic ignition (just a simple coil) or an electric fuel pump the mower wiring you need is very simple. You need a kill switch to the coil that grounds the coil when you want the engine to stop and removes the ground to run. The magneto is self exciting and generates electricity without the need for a battery. The only place you should need that output is for the PTO. You probably need to run the magneto output to a switch and then to the PTO so the PTO can be energized. The other PTO wire just gets grounded. This requires doing some rewiring. Some magnetos have two output wires. You need the rectified output which is DC and will be the output with a diode in the wire. The diode will probably look like a little lumpy spot in the wire covered by heat shrink. The other magneto output is AC and is used for headlights which you don’t need. If you a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb you need to remove the plunger from the solenoid and install a manual fuel shutoff in the gas line. Doing all this bypasses all the safety switches but that should be enough to get you mowing. To summarize you need a kill switch and a PTO solution plus potentially a fuel solenoid delete. That is it.
I have meny of those mowers and the same engine
First now if its not got a electrical pto pulley clutch on it and has a none electrical clutch how would you do then
I need your help, I’ve got a bad key switch and replacing it with a universal one. But the original switch is sealed and it’s not just a plug and play. This mower is kicking my but. So I have
white / which is my power and I have it on my B prong
black / which is ground and I have it on my G prong
red /
Yellow /
Blue /
So what’s left is a
S prong
M prong
L prong
And I’m not sure where to put what wire, maybe I’m thinking about it to hard. The colors that I named off are coming off the wire harness, but when they go to the key switch it changes colors.
the white turns into green
The black stays black
The red turns into light blue
The yellow turns into black and white
The blue turns into white.
Can you please give me a hand. This mower is a z beast made by a company called GDX. They make MTD’s and like a Aron’s brand. It’s zero turn to
S for starter solenoid. M for magneto output. L for headlights.
This video explains ground, but nothing else. I have ground, that's the easy part. What do I do with the rest of my nightmare wiring?
Which wires do you need help with?
Plug your coil wire into the run position on the ignition switch and the white wire that leads to the starter solenoid to the start position of the ignition the other wires should all be ground honestly
Post another one with more light and more info
As the title reads Super Easy, you could just wrap some of them around the Leff tie rod and some around the right tie rod and then you could eliminate the steering wheel. and maybe have enough left over for the park brake as well. That is if you can get it to start. Just don't forget to ground it. Seriously the ground is important.
Oh screw the ground wire i broke it off my engine to the coil and just tap it to any metal to shut the mower off works good enough fur me and used premixed chainsaw gas in it and welded some push mowers together to widen the deck and locked the transmission part so both back tires spin the same way now the piece of shit cuts grass fast and digs out the yard with its knobby tires and welded some straight pipes on the muffler runs pretty good
And is this for every mower? Because I have a John deere L108 I'm trying to straight wire and this looks like it's older model of a different brand and seems to have a simpler motor.
I can show you my old john deere L110 i took out all the safety buttons and spliced the main wires I'll show you if your interested in seeing it mower been sitting for a year because the decks missing a pulley and i don't like john deere mowers plus it has a problem Kohler command cv491s i don't like anymore but the wiring is the same
I've noticed john deeres are loaded with relay boxes and your model is to
I just dug into my Troy Bilt Pony and I have cut wires and I thought i was doing ok but I have made a ridiculous mess of this thing can anyone walk me through how to make my own wiring harness? while by passing all the safety switches
How can I help you
Sure but as i said already you guys are doing it all wrong you don't have to do all that what you done
Theres 1 main plug in at the bottom that controls all your safety buttons
Can't you just run a wire from s on the keyswitch to the trigger post on the solenoid, m on the keyswitch to the black coil wire on the engine heading up to the coils and run a ground wire straight from the keyswitch to an good ground point such as on the chassis and that will completely bypass the tractors electrical system and start and stop the tractor no more issues, that simple? Or will that cause something not to work. The battery will still charge right?
No
You like tecumseh engines i have 1 that takes a long ass time to start up the valves are set right everything else is right except i think the guy that put the coil on used a used coil on it thats to small for the engine so i replaced the coil with the same model of coil and the bitch take a long ass time to start up i haven't been able to nail the problem of this tecumseh 17.5 hp but i believe i will
Once it does finally start up it runs great cuts grass good i like the old engine but i might slap a 2005 briggs intek 18 on it
@@Mike-su8si Yea, but I like there horizontal flathead’s better. Those were reliable workhorse engines. I Haven’t had many of those larger Tecumseh engines for Tractors. Those Briggs Inteks they use now aren’t that much better. They have their own laundry list of problems unfortunately.
@@Mike-su8si Yes you can, it’s called hardwiring. Your run wires from M, S, and B, and L if you want, magneto, solenoid, battery and lights if you have them and your in business, you’ve bypassed the rest of the system. The engine will start, run, charge, mow and turn off when you turn the key. If you got a bad relay or a safety switch dead you can’t find or a tractor with a control module no longer available out least you still have the option to bypass it and use the machine, especially if it’s one with a module they don’t make anymore or multiple failed safety’s, you’re either sol or your bypassing them.
@@Mr_Tecumseh i know i just now reread that and see yes that way would work it would pass all the other shit.
I do have one old Kohler pro with a spark advance module on it i don't know if it works or not but i have another extra spark advance module to so i don't know what thats supposed to do for the engine but its one mine the engine still works good i never use it though because
Kohlers carburetor bowl corrodes and then messes up the float doesn't matter if i buy it a new carburetor those bowls corrode in a few months or weeks then start fucking up i know its because of how the carburetor bowls are made they need to be dipped in treatment stuff that keeps them from messing up so soon but thats why i quit using all my old single cylinder Kohlers now its not the gas or none of my Briggs wouldn't work its Kohlers carburetor bowls are a bad problem they have been for years now
What is if it has safety switches? And where do you connect the wires on the ignition key?
Man oh man you guys are doing it all wrong
Nice video
My plugg sparks when i turn the ignition off, but not while the engine turns??
something must be backwards
Can i run my alternator wire right to my battery ??
If you put one way diode in it yes.
Awesome 411
Where does it show how to do away with all the safety switches I by passed mine with a piece of coat hanger to trick it into thinking they are plugged but would like to be able to do away with all those wires completely
We'll get a video to bypass the safety switches uploaded in a few day's
would like to do away with the wires and this video may be showing how to hook the wiring without the switches but I kinda would have to be walked thur cutting them out for now coat hanger on all 3 having issues again with nothing when I crank mine no click no nothing it did that before cause I had a bad switch by passed it and cranked before not now
I'll show you you'll need cutters a lighter or wire strippers and tape you wont have to make no wire mess it all
All the wires can stay right were they are or unless your that picky and wanna pull them out i quit pulling mine out 2 years ago when i see the main plug at the bottom and the trick works on most other mower brands to
On most of the craftsman's and John deeres the wiring hook ups are about the same I'll make you guys a small video of how to or to show you which colors and where their at some time later on its not hard it all but your mower can and will start up in any gear so keep it in N once you update the wires this way
On the L110 it just kept on blowing those fuses no matter what i done and checked for shorts could never find nothing so i had to replace the fuse box and then i shoved a thicker copper wire in it and its been working that way for years it doesn't melt because the wire can handle the current going through it were the thin fuse couldn't they should never put fuses in riding mowers and all those relay boxes it didn't need you'll say ahh about time and feel relieved
HELP Please... I have a 15.5 Techumse engine with all the wiring cut off and left hanging... I figured it should start with my booster pack... pos to the starter, and neg to the frame... But theres No Spark from the coil... It worked fine before the engine was removed and the wiring harness cut off... But it still should start...!?? I even took coil/magneto off and cleaned all surfaces and put bk on... gapped corectly yes... and removed ground wire also and still nothing... Only wires left are the coil wire hanging cut at end... a yellow & black wire coming from inside the engine it looks like, and thats it... But shouldn't there be spark from that coil.? Even tried a diff plug... I figured it would start, and i'd just have to pull the plug wire to shut it down...? Any1 know.?
Well if the coil is good maybe that yellow and black wire goes to a low oil switch?
Got iT... Coil needed gapped properly.........@@thomassciurba5323
I have 1 tecumseh engine i could help you with mine hasn't been cut it all its a 17.5 i think hp shouldn't matter though
Please turn the camera the other way so the picture fills the whole screen. It's super annoying when people shoot stuff vertically like that.
You can't do this with a rectifier on your mower
I did to all 14 teen of my mowers tell me why you think they can't do it with rectifier on it
😂 unhook the kill wire to the coil, put a push button kill switch to ground. Done. Check continuity on ground if you are ground obsessed.😂😂😂
Couldnt follow what the hell your doing with that tangled mess
Neither could i but you'll get to see my simplest way soon i wont be doing the work because its already done but you can see i just disable all the safety buttons and the main one that controls them all there's no tangle wire mess on mine you'll see soon.
It won't start up on just a battery charger doesn't put out enough power without a battery hooked up even a dead battery with the charger hooked on then it'll start up.
You could have touched the red right onto the starter post but it still ain't gonna start up not without a battery
Zip tie the extra wire up no need to cut it shorter you may need it long one day you know or even fold an tape it up use wire to bundle it up
I couldn't watch anymore from all the sniffing
I didn't care about how to do that i already know how to without making a mess like that i watched cause i wanted to see what engine hes got but he never showed the damn thing is it a Briggs Kohler tecumseh or what you know and hp
Broken suiche
Im gonna have to show yall a easier way without all that wire you don't need no wire my way you unplug the seat safety sometimes on different mowers you have to cut and twist both the black wires and the white wires together then on down the mower unplug any other safety button and behind the engine theres a main wire plug in unplug that cut the 2 white wires splice those 2 together
I can make a short video for yall to see some time if your interested in seeing how i done all mine mine been done so I'd just be showing not me doing it
Be better if you showed wires dressed up showing the exact path they go to....
Dude may have had a drink or ten lol !!! Good though