I recently picked up 62’ of Teufelberger Kernmantel 9.5 rope. I’ve gotten the Blake’s hitch to hold but it’s inconsistent and wants to slip. This is simple and works just the same. I tied a French prusik and it holds & breaks loose with a lot less pressure than a regular prusik. Thanks Joe! I’m always picking up new ideas from you and Scott.
Joe great advice on an alternative to the standard Blake’s Hitch! I also think it’s a good idea that guys learn more than on knot for climbing purposes.👍
I'm wearing the Aerohunter Merlin in this video , I like its construction but I find the original flex and the Aerohunter evolution significantly more comfortable. The Merlin has thinner webbing and it's not as comfortable for me as the original designs.
I prefer the original flex and I'm currently hunting from the Aerohunter evolution saddle. I'm not as comfortable in the new flex & Merlin designs as I am in the original designs so I'm sticking with them
Awesome video. Does SRT/SRS typically use smaller rope than Samson Predator? Could this system be used with a smaller rope to save weight? Thanks for the video. - Logan
Yes for example the gri gri rope specifications is 9 to 11 mm rope the mad rock is 8.5 to 11 mm rope so generally speaking SRS or SRT climbing they typically use a smaller diameter rope however in the arborist industry there are other devices for SRT climbing that will typically use larger ropes like the petzl zag the rope wrench, rope runner etc.
Hey Joe, what size line is your prusik cord? I've been having trouble with my Blake Hitch over tightening and would like to give that french prusik a try.
I find a French prussic, swabish, mochican all tend to break easier than a regular traditional prussic, but I've been using a regular prussic too it just tightens up more than the others .
I generally use an eye to eye 8mm prusik with a Michoacon hitch. But then on the working end of my line about 18" above my factory sewn eye I attach an 8mm prusik that isn't an eye to eye as my tending hitch. The problems that exist when u use the prusik as your main climbing hitch seem to go away when u do it in that configuration. After u do it enough u will know instinctively when both hitches have the right amount of friction in them to work as a tandem. It's so smooth with little wasted energy or motion which r 2 things u want when u r going up near a bedding area. Efficiency is the way & it boosts your confidence a great deal too for comfort purposes.
Question for the arborists/tree guys: in the one or two favorite hunting trees that I reuse frequently I’d like to keep cumulative damage to the tree to a minimum. Friction saver isn’t always appropriate depending on the spot, so how effective would glue-in bolts be?
Friction saver is the way. Multiple types of friction savers. Typically, you access the tree at a point where the friction saver is easy to install. Then, redirect to another suitable location with the same kit or secondary kit.
The Blake’s hitch tends to slip with my predator rope. I tried it with my Bluewater rope and that rope cinches tightly with the Blake’s hitch. I noticed my Predator rope is a bit slick. If I hold the rope between my index finger and thumb, the rope glides between my fingers as though it’s coated with silicone. Do you suppose we should be selecting a different rope? Thicker ropes would be easier on the hands; and deer probably wouldn’t notice a brightly colored rope.
I just started climbing. My blake's hitch holds fine for the first couple of moves. For the third move I'll move it up, but it slips right back down to where the second move was. Do I just need to work at tying the blake's hitch more? I'll definitely try the prussic until I get the blake's down, but I would love your insight!
Mike , Are you advancing the hitch by hand. If so I can’t emphasize this enough. After you tie the Blake’s, sit back forcibly dropping your body weight into your saddle while pulling up on the tail end of the hitch. This will dress the coils of the hitch tightly enough so it won’t slide . Try it again . It shouldn’t slide on You any more. It’s also a good practice to pull up on the tail end every few feet you advance up your rope. This will keep the coils tight. Stick with it , you’ll get it. After a few climbs you’ll be laughing at how easy this is. The other style is to tie the Blake’s with a longer tail so you can climb with a tending hitch. A lot of guys have trouble with this because if you don’t dress the first hitch tight enough then tie the tending knot . It will slide every time . You can also use a CT Roll n lock as a hitch tender. Works amazingly !!!
I recently picked up 62’ of Teufelberger Kernmantel 9.5 rope.
I’ve gotten the Blake’s hitch to hold but it’s inconsistent and wants to slip.
This is simple and works just the same. I tied a French prusik and it holds & breaks loose with a lot less pressure than a regular prusik.
Thanks Joe!
I’m always picking up new ideas from you and Scott.
Joe great advice on an alternative to the standard Blake’s Hitch! I also think it’s a good idea that guys learn more than on knot for climbing purposes.👍
Great tip!!! Could you show us more of your knots. Thank You
Sure I'll make up a knot / hitch video in about a week or two really busy this week but should have some time next week
Another great tip. Thanks Joe.
Thanks Paul
Good idea. Do you think it would work to add a foot loop to this? Maybe right to the carabiner?
Thanks
Yes you could add a footloop to this . Its pretty much same DRT just substituted the hitchcord instead of a Blake's hitch tied with the climbing line
thanks for another option when climbing. like your saddle, hows it working for you?
I'm wearing the Aerohunter Merlin in this video , I like its construction but I find the original flex and the Aerohunter evolution significantly more comfortable. The Merlin has thinner webbing and it's not as comfortable for me as the original designs.
I noticed you’re in the Aero Hunter Merlin. How do you like it?
I prefer the original flex and I'm currently hunting from the Aerohunter evolution saddle. I'm not as comfortable in the new flex & Merlin designs as I am in the original designs so I'm sticking with them
Awesome video. Does SRT/SRS typically use smaller rope than Samson Predator? Could this system be used with a smaller rope to save weight?
Thanks for the video.
- Logan
Yes for example the gri gri rope specifications is 9 to 11 mm rope the mad rock is 8.5 to 11 mm rope so generally speaking SRS or SRT climbing they typically use a smaller diameter rope however in the arborist industry there are other devices for SRT climbing that will typically use larger ropes like the petzl zag the rope wrench, rope runner etc.
Hey Joe, what size line is your prusik cord? I've been having trouble with my Blake Hitch over tightening and would like to give that french prusik a try.
8mm
I find a French prussic, swabish, mochican all tend to break easier than a regular traditional prussic, but I've been using a regular prussic too it just tightens up more than the others .
I generally use an eye to eye 8mm prusik with a Michoacon hitch. But then on the working end of my line about 18" above my factory sewn eye I attach an 8mm prusik that isn't an eye to eye as my tending hitch. The problems that exist when u use the prusik as your main climbing hitch seem to go away when u do it in that configuration. After u do it enough u will know instinctively when both hitches have the right amount of friction in them to work as a tandem. It's so smooth with little wasted energy or motion which r 2 things u want when u r going up near a bedding area. Efficiency is the way & it boosts your confidence a great deal too for comfort purposes.
Question for the arborists/tree guys: in the one or two favorite hunting trees that I reuse frequently I’d like to keep cumulative damage to the tree to a minimum. Friction saver isn’t always appropriate depending on the spot, so how effective would glue-in bolts be?
Dave , you could install a false crotch ?
You can use cable or even chain ? Or do it this way .
ruclips.net/video/XuWkL3zhvEc/видео.html
Friction saver is the way. Multiple types of friction savers. Typically, you access the tree at a point where the friction saver is easy to install. Then, redirect to another suitable location with the same kit or secondary kit.
The Blake’s hitch tends to slip with my predator rope. I tried it with my Bluewater rope and that rope cinches tightly with the Blake’s hitch. I noticed my Predator rope is a bit slick. If I hold the rope between my index finger and thumb, the rope glides between my fingers as though it’s coated with silicone. Do you suppose we should be selecting a different rope? Thicker ropes would be easier on the hands; and deer probably wouldn’t notice a brightly colored rope.
Nice
I just started climbing. My blake's hitch holds fine for the first couple of moves. For the third move I'll move it up, but it slips right back down to where the second move was. Do I just need to work at tying the blake's hitch more? I'll definitely try the prussic until I get the blake's down, but I would love your insight!
Mike , Are you advancing the hitch by hand. If so I can’t emphasize this enough. After you tie the Blake’s, sit back forcibly dropping your body weight into your saddle while pulling up on the tail end of the hitch. This will dress the coils of the hitch tightly enough so it won’t slide . Try it again . It shouldn’t slide on You any more. It’s also a good practice to pull up on the tail end every few feet you advance up your rope. This will keep the coils tight.
Stick with it , you’ll get it. After a few climbs you’ll be laughing at how easy this is.
The other style is to tie the Blake’s with a longer tail so you can climb with a tending hitch. A lot of guys have trouble with this because if you don’t dress the first hitch tight enough then tie the tending knot . It will slide every time . You can also use a CT Roll n lock as a hitch tender. Works amazingly !!!