This is excellent for beginners and exactly what I needed as introduction to the types of paints available and basics of uses.I myself am coming back to model making after decades off.(Things seemed simpler then but far less exciting!)
Welcome back to the greatest hobby in the world! You are exactly right. It’s a very exciting period for our hobby. A little confusing for the beginner and a lot of misinformation out there…so my advice would be to ‘limit’ where you get your information from and your re entry will be far more enjoyable. Thanks for connecting 🍺👍🙏
I’m 75 years old, haven’t built a model since I was 7 or 8. I built over 40 aircraft and never painted one. I been following many of the vlogs and I think they are great. I want to build again but I’m very hesitant about painting. I’m trying to overcome my doubts and try again. Any advice viewers. This was a very good video. Thank you
Hello John. Thanks for joining in. I’d encourage you to be brave and have a go. What’s the worst that can happen? It doesn’t have to be perfect, just work on learning something new each time. acrylic paints will be your friend (assuming you will be brush painting rather than airbrush?)
I built my first plastic model airplane 63 years ago, and built more until my early 20s. I picked it up again in my 40s and built until my 50s. I've been on a bit of a hiatus for the past ten years or so, and now, I can't find the enamel paints locally (or even online) that I am accustomed to. I am going to try building a simple kit and paint with acrylics soon. Thanks for a very informative video!
Thanks so much for joining in and welcome back to the greatest hobby in the world! And yes, the hobby has evolved greatly over the past decade. Good luck with your build 🍺💪🙏
Great informative insides and tips for the confusing model paint systems . Coming from the inexpensive Humbrol 14ml turps based enamel paint offerings of mat, semi and gloss tin days. Is all we needed . Never used water , no special thinners, no special cleaners , just plain old cheap turps a quick stir and all good. The Humbrol paint would last for decades in that little tin and it achieved amazing results , that's lasted for decades . Even used this Humbrol as a realistic weathering medium by utilising dry brushing techniques . No need for the plethora of weathering on offer today. All achieved by manipulating the paint consistencies ,opacities , mixed with just simple turps and using various brushing methods . Paint choice can be a nightmare today and equally is amazing with the many offerings today . I think what is a bit confusing is the naming , the double naming on bottles.EG: 100% Acrylic water based, Acrylic lacquer , Mr Hobby Aqueous and has a picture of flame on back of bottle or the great Tamiya Acrylic XF range but also has flame picture on label that indicates flammable solvent not water based , but confusingly you can add water as you say . It's also probably got a lot to do with the companies attempt for translations into the English language. In Australia , we just say turps and the word Lacquer is a general term that's minimally used when describing the word varnish, but in Australia Both words Varnish and Lacquer are understood to be a clear coat, either mat, satin, or gloss turps based coating and what you buy at Bunnings and paint your natural wooden coffee table with. In USA and UK they say in the model world , " white spirit" frequently. The other word we hear a lot on Tube tutorials the use of the word, "isopropyl alcohol ". Isn't that just a term of a solvent , a flammable base thinner or cleaner and is just much cheaper than buying the big brand name thinner /cleaners. Do we need a universal vernacular information sheet or chart from the model paint brands for paint chemistry descriptors of their paint systems to stop confusion when you go and buy? EG: "Isopropyl alcohol" should = the Mr hobby range " Mr. Color Leveling thinner 400 " . On the Mr bottle notice the word " color " . UK and AUS English word is Colour. Tamiya has five seperate thinners including two retarders all different , X-20 for enamels , X-20A for acrylics and "Lacquer Thinner" for Tamiya LP range . It's confusing , You have be very carful and remember what you are using , like you say you can't mix them up and can be tricky .
Comprehensive comments. Thank you ! I just can’t work out if you liked or hated the video 😂 And isopropyl alcohol or IPA is its own animal. Not a generic term. It’s great to thin and clean Tamiya acrylic lacquers and ak real colour. It carries the paint in a particular way and dries quickly once on the surface which allows for fine, translucent finishes. Perfect to use as a thinning agent if you are post-shading Tamiya paints (in particular) Thanks again for joining in 🍻🍀💪
And completely agree re the confusing naming conventions. Acrylic vs acrylic lacquers etc. it was my hope the video may shine some light on the subject
No worries , I really liked it, your explanation was excellent and clear and I was just giving a snap shot of my own personal experiences with the latest learnings and purchases regarding paint /thinners as It was a steep leaning curve coming from Humbrol enamel tins . @@workbenchhobbies4316
Thank you for explaining so well the difference and how they all work . I'm mainly researching for airbrushing Gunpla models and, as you said, there's a lot of conflicting information out there. Would love to see a video from you on the best way to stay safe when painting with lacquers as that's the part I'm researching now. Especially for me as I live in an apartment and won't have a dedicated paint area.
Hey 👋 thanks for you kind words and suggestion. Best tip when using lacquers would be to make sure the room is at least ventilated but more than that, keep your air pressure no more than 12-15psi. Spraying at high pressures will tend to blast the paint and cause a lot more overspray and vapour. Control you application and you will help reduce the smell…But lacquers are lacquers…so there will always be some smell. Hope that helps 🙏💪🍺🥂
Glad it helped! The paint manufacturers dont make it easy...and unfortunately when you ask for help on a platform like Facebook the answers that come back can make it even worse! Once you get your head around the basics everything will start to fall in place. 💪
I started this hobby recently and I painted a model with acrylics via an airbrush and I encountered so many issues it was frustrating. But as soon as I just used an MRP lacquer today ... It was effortless! I'm relegating my acrylics for detail painting now, gonna spray main coats with lacquer from now on xD
Hey there. Thanks for sharing your experiences. No doubting whatsoever lacquers are easier to spray and far more forgiving. Downside is the health implications of the solvents and obviously the smell. Good luck with the modelling 🍺🙏😎💪
A well rounded starter video Clayton with the three basic rules covered in an easy to understand manner. One very important thing to note though, is that some paints do not play well with others and I am not referring to mixing paint types to achieve different colour tones more laying paint types, but that topic is beyond the scope of this video. Maybe another video about the layering of different types and the potentially disastrous effects that CAN happen. And it was nice to see the Toecutter put in an appearance.
@@workbenchhobbies4316 It has never been an issue I have suffered, I know how paint works and interacts with other paint types. I have received photos from other modellers with a Pauline Hanson remark of "Please, explain". Paint like metal suffers from something similar to a galvanic reaction. This is in part due to both the carrier of the pigment and the pigment itself and to how the paint (as a whole) itself when acting as a single layer entity behaves. Lacquer, enamels and oil paints never truly set. Meaning even long after drying the surface structure of the paint shifts, and to quote the Toecutter, "we have a problem here, she, is not what she seems". So. if you have a microscopically shifting base as the primer base, and then you add a resin vinyl paint (acrylic) over the top, you can possibly end up with fissures in the vinyl paint layer. This is because the vinyl (after the resin carrier has evaporated) forms a stable, single cohesive surface. The substrate however, is still moving. And well, when one surface moves and the surface above it doesn't because it a chemically plasticized bond, the possible outcome? Not good. It is a very long subject so this is my attempt at a nutshell explanation.
Hmmm… I’m no chemist, so I can make no qualified case… and I’ve never had any issues in my time, but Im guessing most issues occur if 1. Base layer hasn’t cured properly and 2. Applying too much paint to the surface. I was asking you because, like I said I’ve never had any issues, so was curious of your experience.
I work with acrilics a lot. With proper thinning and air pressure I can obtain really nice job done. The only serious problem is imho poor acrilic's adhesion, so from time to time I switch to Mr Color C paints. They are really durable, but as you mentioned, smelly and toxic, giving a bit headache after long day of modeling. As begginer I have tested many diffetent paints and brands finally to understand which one work for me best and I like (or hate). Excelent tutorial! Regards, Greg
Thanks Greg. Glad you enjoyed it. I used to use acrylics almost exclusively. You can absolutely get good results with them but you’re right…the durability the lacquers give you is unparalleled. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate it. ☝️🙏🏆🍺
Please consider to make a specific tutorial about varnishes. Maybe it is only my problem, but I still struggling to obtain stable, repeatable, nice result with varnish. I have bought mamy brands and tested them but I am not happy with the results. I dont know why there is no problem with paint, but when varnish is sprayed it is different story. I have mrcolor gx, ammo lucky, humbrol clear as my standard products now. I am always afraid to ruin my models by varnishing or by weathering. Varnish is often uneven, thick or not strong enough to withstand weathering process. I hope you could help. Regards, Greg
Hey Greg. I hear you and have had a few issues in the past myself. Best matte and satin varnish I have used that is just about impossible to get wrong is the VMS brand. They will change your modelling life. Tamiya semi-gloss thinned with retarder thinner works a treat too. The best high gloss I have used (although I don’t use gloss very often) is the SMS high gloss varnish. When spraying your varnish try to keep your pressure around 12-15psi. If too high the paint will dry before hitting the model and give you an uneven finish. Will add your suggestion to the list though. Appreciate the idea 🙏💪🏆🍻
@@workbenchhobbies4316 Thank you very much. I really apreciate you help me sharing your experience. I will try those products. I have never worked with them, although I have heared good things about VMS brand. Watching your movies I have recently realized my mistake with air pressure. As you mentioned was too high. This is why I like your movies, cos every time I find something to improve on my hobby. Regards, Greg
Thanks for joining in. Like I said in the video, there’s nothing wrong with acrylics, but I think you’ll find your painting will go next level if you can get your head around the lacquers. 🍀
Hi Clayton! This was a great guide on the different paints we use, and as a somewhat nervous airbrush user, it is very useful when deciding which type of paint suits my skill level. After your last video about painting camo and weathering the Meng Leopard, I asked you about the use of lacquer paint in the comments section, and your answer motivated me to try them out. I have to say that I have found them to be a joy to airbrush, even though they do have a strong odour that takes getting used to, even with a lot of ventilation. And yes I wear a mask when using them. So thanks again for the advice mate. Another guide on thinning the different paint types correctly, and best air pressures, etc., would be very welcome I’m sure. Love the channel mate, so keep the content coming! Cheers for now!
Love reading your comments Gary. They bring me so much joy. Congratulations on trying something new, and that’s fantastic news that you had a positive experience. The smell of the lacquer thinner has never bothered me. I did used to work it the screen print industry though, so maybe I’ve become desensitised 🤷🏻 Thanks again for your support 🙏☝️🤙🏼😎
@@TheM2gerr - Thanks man, that is very helpful. I have been experimenting, but have not tried the 1:1 ratio. I was having a few issues with the mix, and air pressure, so I will try your suggestion and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again mate. Cheers!
Thanks, Clay, that is really well explained. I was so confused until I came across your video, which was explained in plain English. Love it. Just subscribed. Thanks for all the great work. Cheers
That is such great news - understanding the fundamentals and basic rules of paint is such an important part of the puzzle. Thank you for your kind words and for the subscribe and connection!
Great video Clay. Very informative for us newbies and easy to follow. Loved the smooth jazz too. Looking forward to the vid on airbrush techniques. Seeing those little tins of Humbrol takes me back to sitting in the kitchen working on (perish the thought) lead figures. 😱! Gotta love the early 80s. Keep up the great work and the passion. 👊
Thanks mate. Your calls for helping the beginner modeller did sit with me, so I’m trying to produce more of this style of video for people new to the hobby, as well as others trying to fine tune their skills. Thanks for connecting mate 🙏☝️
I learned these same basics years ago and now I'm pulling out my hair trying to deal with all these "Acrylic Enamels", "Acrylic Lacquers", "Enamel Lacquer" etc.... Now I see all these paints listed as essentially two of the main three types in one paint. What is up with that??
Yeah, the paint companies really don't make it easy for us! 😂 Essentially though... if you see 'Acrylic Lacquer'..treat it like a lacquer and you can't go wrong. Not sure about the Enamel Lacquer ? You sure that is thing ? Hopefully that video was helpful... 🎨
Definetly a useful guide.I’ve used Ammo acrylics and Vallejo acrylics for most of the time and thinned with Tamiya X-20a.I will definetly think about your tips when painting in the future! :)
Hey. Great video really liked it. Can I ask what your opinion is of Diggers White Spirit (the stuff you get at Bunnings) as an Enamel thinner for air brushing?
Hi Lachlan. Diggers ‘white spirit’ I’m unfamiliar with, but I use the Diggers Lacquer thinner to flush my airbrush. Are you painting with enamels? You’d only use a white spirit if that was the case? However…generally speaking, whilst you can use those bulk buy liquids from the hardware and they will work, you often find the ones designed for hobby work are more refined and will give you a better result. Hope that helps?
Hi 👋 There are plenty of great channels. If you are just starting out just be careful not to try the advanced stuff straight off. Channels like Night Shift are incredible but for the beginner can be overload. Maybe try Panzermeister 36 or Plasmo. They have great, accessible content. Hope that helps
The wargamming miniatures community really needs to see this. I came from a scale model background, so had already learned a lot of this.. and I've been trying to explain it to them. Like the concept of a primer vs base paint, and how a primer kind of needs to be a lacquer or other 'hot' paint, and even the most well known artists just give me blank looks. And then they go paint normal acrylics on metal and resin and wonder why it flakes off. They said 'I used a primer! I don't know why it didn't work!', but they use the acrylic 'primers', which have no solvents, so can't bite into the material.
Interesting. Maybe someone in that world could share the video in the hope that it may help? But yes…the fundamentals of paint are so important and once you get your head around it the skys the limit! Thanks for joining in. 😎👍🥂
@@workbenchhobbies4316 I plan to share it on the forums I'm on, but I'm just one voice. More cross pollination between the two modeling communities could only be a good thing.
I don't have any experience with models or painting but I recently got my hands on a resin 3D printer. I've been designing earrings and I'm trying to figure out whether a lacquer or an enamel paint would lend earrings a more metallic or, I guess, just a professional look?
Hey - great question. Its probably important to know how you were intending to apply the paint ? If you were brush painting them I would first prime them using a WHITE - lacquer based primer straight from the rattle can and then brush paint with acrylics. If you were looking to just spray them to give the impression of a metallic finish they you can't go past lacquers. You would just need to airbrush them or find the colour in a rattle can and apply the paint that way. Hope that helps
Useful vid. My thoughts. KISS for beginners. TAMIYA acrylics. Start here. Can't go wrong. So affordable now, the bulk of adult re-beginners today will be doing so equipped with an airbrush/compressor, so Tamiya acrylics are the no brainer go to for a multitude of reasons. Most importantly, they spray beautifully, adhere without primer are hardy, long lasting, AVAILABLE and well supported everywhere. Tamiya acrylics are a solvent based hybrid. They are NOT water based. Isopropyl alcohol or Tamiya's own proprietary X20A thinners should be used, not water. In fact in the distant past, I've used everything from hardware store turpentine through GP thinners and they work with, but Tamiya thinners (all types) definitely work best. Pros. No set marketing gimmicks. Widely distributed and available, particularly important in Australia. Inexpensive (relatively). Decent range of colours, albeit not as exhaustive as GSI Creos and many of the water based acrylic manufacturers. Supported by several specific compatible types of thinners. Tamiya X20A & Lacquer Thinners available with or without retarder -the equivalent of GSI Creos leveling thinners when used with this paint. Can be mixed with Tamiya Acrylic Retarder for brush friendly painting and friendlier spraying in hot humid climates. Toxicity and vapour stench level is far lesser than genuine lacquer paints made by both GSI Creos and now Tamiya. Con. Now that Tamiya Acrylic Retarder is available to facilitate brush painting, the singular con I can think is limited range of military specific label shades of colours as their primary competitor GSI CREOS -comparatively. This requires mixing of Tamiya colours to achieve 100% historically accurate shades in many instances. The beginner or average modeler won't generally be concerned with this however as the available shades will be close enough. e.g. XF-11 J.N. Green & XF-70 Dark Green 2 (IJN) will be close enough to WWII IJN aircraft external Nakajima or Mitsubishi green for total suspense of disbelief pragmatic purposes finish 90% of modellers will be happy with. Knowledgeable obsessives can tint shades to as close as possible to accurately replicate in miniature. This has to be done generally with the other brands too, as seldom are the actual label claimed colours 100% accurate shades. As a bonus, Tamiya is increasingly albeit slowly expanding its range to include more authentic colours of popular subject shades straight out of the bottle. e.g. XF-92 & XF-93 DAK '41 & '42 colours. Started with a hairy stick and Humbrol enamels like most of us in the British Commonwealth when that was all that was available, accessible and affordable. Discovered Tamiya acrylics when I returned after a decade's hiatus in 1983 and have never lost the love. Also have a large range of Vallejo Model Air and Model Color dropper bottle acrylics acquired after another interim hiatus and subsequent return in 2013 when water based were all the rage, -with some MIG and AK in that range mix -all inter-compatible. Not really a water based acrylics fan. Won't be restocking when they are exhausted. Love GSI Creos solvent acrylics too, but distro & price in AU is an issue for me, so erstwhile Tamiya acrylics it is. I am currently gradually re-standardising on Tamiya, as with everything they do par state of the art excellence, their paints are no exception AFAIC. As you say, each to their own. That's my preference.
Hey James. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts. Deep and insightful. And completely agree with you about Tamiya. Very hard to go past! Thanks again for joining in 🙏🇦🇺
Thanks Clayton awsome work, I learned the hard way that tamyia lacquer acrylic is more lacquer than acrylic, and if mixed with a vallejo acrylic thinned with lacquer retarder, you really mess up an air brush. Interesting point with air brushing acrylics not being the easiest, as a beginner I thought acrylics being water based would be the easiest to use. Have been unhappy with my attempts at fine shading at edges ect.
Hey Kane! Great to hear from you! And yes, you wouldn’t be the first to make that mistake. Lacquers just flow through the air brush better and are far more forgiving with thinning ratios and application volume than acrylics. Stick with your Tamiya and thin with lacquer retarder and you are in the right track. Hope you are enjoying the channel 🍀🍻
Great video! Thanks for keeping it simple. When are you going to be on On The Bench again? I cant count the number of times if made a little mistake from listening to them then burst out laughing. Once again i love your videos.
Hey David. I always love me time on the show. Let the OTB boys know you do too and you never know 🤷🏻 So much confusion around paint, so I’m pleased to hear you found the info helpful. Thanks for connecting. It’s appreciated 🙏
Where would Mr. Aqueous paints fit in? Some say they are acrylics, but can't be thinned with water, some say they are more like the Tamiya 'acrylics' and sort of a hybrid etc. I'm quite lost on them.
Hey 👋 I’ve never used Mr Aqueous, but they are a water based acrylic that can definitely be thinned with water. The MR COLOR line is their solvent based paint so that would be more towards a lacquer style. The whole naming of these paints is confusing, so I understand why people struggle. Tamiya is an ‘acrylic lacquer’ and is quite unique in the fact you can thin with water, ipa or lacquer thinner. That means it can work with a few other paints. So where does mr aqueous sit? It’s a basic water based acrylic from what I can tell. Pretty sure you’d be able to mix it with Tamiya xf paints as long as you were only thinning with water…but test it before trying it. Best policy if you are learning though is to stick to the one brand / style of paint until you get the basics down and then try expand from there. Hope that helps 🙏🍻
@nchhobbies4316Thanks a lot mate! That really helped me. I guess I'll go with either Tamiya X paints or Mr Aqueous. Can't use lacquer where I paint and couldn't get on with the Ammo Mig Acrylics.
Great question! It’s just a more aggressive style of lacquer. I’d liken it to the SMS style. I think Tamiya market their xf paints as ‘acrylics’, but because of the way it’s make we are able to make the choice of if you take that down the lacquer path or if we choose to just thin with water. It’s a real hybrid style of paint which is why I like it so much. I guess Tamiya just wanted to have a dedicated lacquer range and dedicated acrylic line. Hope that helps 🍀
Was a big question I had from watching the video myself (also first time caller on your show 😁). Fair to say that the LP line is more conducive to the Lacquer carriers and the XF line the water carriers? Realistically it's a different way to get the pigments on to the models and how they bind to each other.
@@crazylocha2515 LP is a lacquer. No two ways about it. It’s a full on lacquer acrylic paint. XF is an alcohol acrylic. There’s no water involved. Its carrier is alcohol, and it’s one of two paints made that way - the other is Mr. Hobby Aqueous, which is named incorrectly (most likely to get past import restrictions). There’s nothing “hybrid” about X/XF. It’s still an acrylic. Just the carrier is different, and actually historically acrylics have had lacquer carriers far longer than they’ve had water carriers. The big difference between a water acrylic and a lacquer acrylic is lacquers don’t cure - they don’t need to. Water acrylics cure via first drying then crosslinking happens in the binder to form a hard shell. Alcohol acrylics lie somewhere in between, and have the added benefit of being able to be thinned with lacquer thinner (or MLT) essentially turning them into lacquers.
@@CFster Thank you for the X/XF clarification being alcohol based. I thought so, and wasn't sure. Wanted to pose that part as question specifically. Makes a bunch of things click even firmer now 👍🏆👍. Totally get the crosslinking, especially the X/XF, and how much some of the other water based acrylics vex me when they up and decided to turn into goop when mixing with the Tamiya. Big reason I treated myself to a decent spray booth to be able to branch into more lacquer based, especially the new Outlaw range (lacquer based liquid acrylic pigments) and dealing with the eventual NMF aircraft finishes, usually better in lacquer. Eventually I will get better at clear coats, and now I have better tools and knowledge (best tool😁). MCLT-- unicorn 🦄 tears 600%. Didn't take long to figure that one out, LoL 🤣☕🐢
I'd really recommend using retarder with vallejo paints, or perhaps with any true acrylic? I had real trouble with vallejo before adding "flow improver" (their retarder).
The video was just about the basics, hence I was suggesting to thin it with water until people at least understood the basics of paint types. I was trying not to complicate the equation for the beginner. Not that I use acrylics anymore, but I would have never sprayed them direct without thinning them with something. Appreciate you joining in the conversation :)
Enamels thin and spray just fine using hardware store lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner also helps enamels dry quicker--even faster when a enamel hardener is used.
Hey. Thanks for your comments. When you say ‘enamels’ can you tell me a specific brand you are referring to? And tell me more about the enamel ‘hardener’?
@@workbenchhobbies4316 The Testors (and any other enamel for that matter) enamels in the small glass bottles will work fine sprayed and thinned about 50/50 with hardware store lacquer thinner. A few drops of enamel hardener added to your paint mixture helps speed up the drying process with enamels--particularly gloss enamels. MCW Finishes makes the clear hardener---1003E Enamel Hardener. MCW Finishes has both enamels and air brush ready lacquers. They are at mcwfinishes. Very nice paints.
it is a good guide for beginners , but you forged to point out that Acrylics are not as healthy as you might think, because while most Acrylics water based and have no or very little smell doesn't‘ mean there are non toxic. If I have to choose wich type of paint I want inhale( of course you shouldn't do it) than it is Laquer and Enamel paints rather than Acrylics , even they are more toxic , at least I can get them out of my lungs, where as Acrylics stay in your lungs forever by clogging your lungs , simply or better sadly they will dry in your lungs and never come out so the use of a FFP 3 Mask or respirator is advised for all type of paint.especially while Sprayig them,
Hey. Thanks for joining in. I certainly never suggest acrylics were healthy, just the lesser of the evils. A spraying all paints comes with its risks and we need to consider appropriate PPE. Appreciate your comments and the reminder that we need to be vigilant ✊🏼🍻🙏
@@workbenchhobbies4316 Sorry , i meant with my post not you suggest the Acrylics where healthy. It was more like most People think no smell no harm , most times the opposite is true no smell more harm, most Acrylics have an Epoxid binder alone this is more harmful than thinner for Laquer paint, even there are Epoxid types out who are less harmful doesn't make it much better . Btw I watched your builds and paint jobs . It is awesome and I learned a lot. have a good time.
How much of the problem arises by the initial question not being reasonably researched by the initiator to begin with? Seems that research - and genuine learning - are all too hard and unnecessary in the age of instant gratification.
@@workbenchhobbies4316 certainly am, you have provided some excellent advice in a very easy to digest and personable manner. Keep up the great work, you’re hitting sixes.
Depends upon the age and casual or not nature of the modeller. When you were a kid, did you care if the model was even painted at all prior to playing with it? Even as you got older, and painted them, most likely didn't have access to an airbrush or information. Today casual modellers and those starting back in the hobby aren't necessarily obsessives. They just want to KISS with an acceptable to them standoff believable finished result without having to research a library. The obsession with accuracy and needing to having all the tools to achieve it only comes with time if it's in one's nature exacerbated by exposure to internet comparative competitiveness which isn't actually a good thing in my book, even if in eternal internal dialogue I find myself undesirably afflicted as conflicted with it. There's a lot to be said for KISS and focus upon enjoyment, whatever that is for the individual. It's a HOBBY. I think we all go through stages and phases. Personally, I'm over my Dragon detail phase. Although I love the detail I'm tired to the nth degree requiring endless PE, modelling Zimmerit from epoxy or putty and assembly of individual Magic Track individual link tracks in armour. My compromise preference now is their Smart Kit approach with as much detail and accuracy as slide moulding can provide including pre-moulded Zimmerit where necessary, with Dragon DS tracks for the win. Same with model aircraft. I used to love 1/48 Eduard Profipacks, and to some extent still do. Their revised more inclusive Weekend Kit approach of now multiple schemes with stencils suits me better. I can cut my own masks. But armour or air, although I have the dedicated tools, bending seemingly endless minuscule PE parts can take a hike. That just instills dread and incites procrastination rather than enjoyment for me, so why do it? Give me Hasegawa 1/32 detail and fit these days, e.g. Mitsubishi J2M3 Model 21 Raiden, and I'm happy enough with the included level of detail finished result.
@@jamescreswell9037 a great perspective. My comment is a tad off path with your excellent viewpoint, though you do reference the core issue. One can quickly and easily learn by clicking on a myriad of ‘scale model basics’ videos on YT. My comment stands, from repeated observation in my two hobbies. Some people are too lazy in thought and action to even try and learn themselves - even at the most cursory level. I’m not advocating a deep theoretical knowledge before commencing, but as you grow in confidence and realise more, it’s so easy now to fill in your knowledge gaps in a matter of 10 minutes. It’s not a competitive issue, in my view. Though you rightly point out it can be for some. So be it.
@@Beniah107 You're absolutely right re desire for or level of knowledge disparity. One supposes it depends upon an individual's motivation for modelling. Mine came about as a consequence of the historical and subsequent technical interest even as a child, so the horse was before the cart from the outset with modelling a way to enhance and express my interest. As I'm older, I think I tend to be less critical of others' lack of erudition, perhaps because I have had a lifetime to accrue mine and my perspective may be biased by that. And not everyone is left brain orientated, so perhaps the creative artistic aspect of assembly and painting is what appeals? Ultimately, as long as they gain pleasure from the hobby.
This is excellent for beginners and exactly what I needed as introduction to the types of paints available and basics of uses.I myself am coming back to model making after decades off.(Things seemed simpler then but far less exciting!)
Welcome back to the greatest hobby in the world! You are exactly right. It’s a very exciting period for our hobby. A little confusing for the beginner and a lot of misinformation out there…so my advice would be to ‘limit’ where you get your information from and your re entry will be far more enjoyable.
Thanks for connecting 🍺👍🙏
I’m 75 years old, haven’t built a model since I was 7 or 8. I built over 40 aircraft and never painted one. I been following many of the vlogs and I think they are great. I want to build again but I’m very hesitant about painting. I’m trying to overcome my doubts and try again. Any advice viewers. This was a very good video. Thank you
Hello John. Thanks for joining in. I’d encourage you to be brave and have a go. What’s the worst that can happen? It doesn’t have to be perfect, just work on learning something new each time. acrylic paints will be your friend (assuming you will be brush painting rather than airbrush?)
I built my first plastic model airplane 63 years ago, and built more until my early 20s. I picked it up again in my 40s and built until my 50s. I've been on a bit of a hiatus for the past ten years or so, and now, I can't find the enamel paints locally (or even online) that I am accustomed to. I am going to try building a simple kit and paint with acrylics soon. Thanks for a very informative video!
Thanks so much for joining in and welcome back to the greatest hobby in the world! And yes, the hobby has evolved greatly over the past decade. Good luck with your build 🍺💪🙏
how did it go?
Great informative insides and tips for the confusing model paint systems . Coming from the inexpensive Humbrol 14ml turps based enamel paint offerings of mat, semi and gloss tin days. Is all we needed . Never used water , no special thinners, no special cleaners , just plain old cheap turps a quick stir and all good. The Humbrol paint would last for decades in that little tin and it achieved amazing results , that's lasted for decades . Even used this Humbrol as a realistic weathering medium by utilising dry brushing techniques . No need for the plethora of weathering on offer today. All achieved by manipulating the paint consistencies ,opacities , mixed with just simple turps and using various brushing methods .
Paint choice can be a nightmare today and equally is amazing with the many offerings today . I think what is a bit confusing is the naming , the double naming on bottles.EG: 100% Acrylic water based, Acrylic lacquer , Mr Hobby Aqueous and has a picture of flame on back of bottle or the great Tamiya Acrylic XF range but also has flame picture on label that indicates flammable solvent not water based , but confusingly you can add water as you say . It's also probably got a lot to do with the companies attempt for translations into the English language. In Australia , we just say turps and the word Lacquer is a general term that's minimally used when describing the word varnish, but in Australia Both words Varnish and Lacquer are understood to be a clear coat, either mat, satin, or gloss turps based coating and what you buy at Bunnings and paint your natural wooden coffee table with. In USA and UK they say in the model world , " white spirit" frequently. The other word we hear a lot on Tube tutorials the use of the word, "isopropyl alcohol ". Isn't that just a term of a solvent , a flammable base thinner or cleaner and is just much cheaper than buying the big brand name thinner /cleaners. Do we need a universal vernacular information sheet or chart from the model paint brands for paint chemistry descriptors of their paint systems to stop confusion when you go and buy?
EG: "Isopropyl alcohol" should = the Mr hobby range " Mr. Color Leveling thinner 400 " . On the Mr bottle notice the word " color " . UK and AUS English word is Colour.
Tamiya has five seperate thinners including two retarders all different , X-20 for enamels , X-20A for acrylics and "Lacquer Thinner" for Tamiya LP range . It's confusing , You have be very carful and remember what you are using , like you say you can't mix them up and can be tricky .
Comprehensive comments. Thank you ! I just can’t work out if you liked or hated the video 😂
And isopropyl alcohol or IPA is its own animal. Not a generic term. It’s great to thin and clean Tamiya acrylic lacquers and ak real colour. It carries the paint in a particular way and dries quickly once on the surface which allows for fine, translucent finishes. Perfect to use as a thinning agent if you are post-shading Tamiya paints (in particular)
Thanks again for joining in 🍻🍀💪
And completely agree re the confusing naming conventions. Acrylic vs acrylic lacquers etc. it was my hope the video may shine some light on the subject
No worries , I really liked it, your explanation was excellent and clear and I was just giving a snap shot of my own personal experiences with the latest learnings and purchases regarding paint /thinners as It was a steep leaning curve coming from Humbrol enamel tins . @@workbenchhobbies4316
Thanks for the great video. It is very easy to listen to and understand.
Appreciate it! Glad you found it helpful 🍺
Very helpful, thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to comment 🍺
Okay, this one got not just the 👍 but the 🔔 too. Great explanation for the basics. Looking forward to more videos for sure. ☕🐢
That’s awesome 🤩 appreciate you joining in and welcome to the community 🙏☝️💪
Clayton great video thanks for what you bring to the hobby . Maybe one day I will get to shake your hand .
Thanks Frank. I like the sound of that. 👍💪🙏
Thank you for explaining so well the difference and how they all work . I'm mainly researching for airbrushing Gunpla models and, as you said, there's a lot of conflicting information out there.
Would love to see a video from you on the best way to stay safe when painting with lacquers as that's the part I'm researching now. Especially for me as I live in an apartment and won't have a dedicated paint area.
Hey 👋 thanks for you kind words and suggestion. Best tip when using lacquers would be to make sure the room is at least ventilated but more than that, keep your air pressure no more than 12-15psi. Spraying at high pressures will tend to blast the paint and cause a lot more overspray and vapour. Control you application and you will help reduce the smell…But lacquers are lacquers…so there will always be some smell.
Hope that helps 🙏💪🍺🥂
I've been getting confused with the paint side of things, but this video just made it all a bit clearer. Thank you
Glad it helped! The paint manufacturers dont make it easy...and unfortunately when you ask for help on a platform like Facebook the answers that come back can make it even worse! Once you get your head around the basics everything will start to fall in place. 💪
I started this hobby recently and I painted a model with acrylics via an airbrush and I encountered so many issues it was frustrating. But as soon as I just used an MRP lacquer today ... It was effortless! I'm relegating my acrylics for detail painting now, gonna spray main coats with lacquer from now on xD
Hey there. Thanks for sharing your experiences. No doubting whatsoever lacquers are easier to spray and far more forgiving. Downside is the health implications of the solvents and obviously the smell.
Good luck with the modelling 🍺🙏😎💪
A well rounded starter video Clayton with the three basic rules covered in an easy to understand manner. One very important thing to note though, is that some paints do not play well with others and I am not referring to mixing paint types to achieve different colour tones more laying paint types, but that topic is beyond the scope of this video. Maybe another video about the layering of different types and the potentially disastrous effects that CAN happen. And it was nice to see the Toecutter put in an appearance.
😂 glad someone got the movie. Tell me more about the issues you’ve had layering paint 🤔
@@workbenchhobbies4316 It has never been an issue I have suffered, I know how paint works and interacts with other paint types. I have received photos from other modellers with a Pauline Hanson remark of "Please, explain". Paint like metal suffers from something similar to a galvanic reaction. This is in part due to both the carrier of the pigment and the pigment itself and to how the paint (as a whole) itself when acting as a single layer entity behaves. Lacquer, enamels and oil paints never truly set. Meaning even long after drying the surface structure of the paint shifts, and to quote the Toecutter, "we have a problem here, she, is not what she seems". So. if you have a microscopically shifting base as the primer base, and then you add a resin vinyl paint (acrylic) over the top, you can possibly end up with fissures in the vinyl paint layer. This is because the vinyl (after the resin carrier has evaporated) forms a stable, single cohesive surface. The substrate however, is still moving. And well, when one surface moves and the surface above it doesn't because it a chemically plasticized bond, the possible outcome? Not good. It is a very long subject so this is my attempt at a nutshell explanation.
Hmmm… I’m no chemist, so I can make no qualified case… and I’ve never had any issues in my time, but Im guessing most issues occur if 1. Base layer hasn’t cured properly and 2. Applying too much paint to the surface.
I was asking you because, like I said I’ve never had any issues, so was curious of your experience.
Any type of paint can be applied over any other type of paint provided the base is fully cured.
@@CFster - That was my understanding also... but I try not to work in absolutes just in case ;)
I work with acrilics a lot. With proper thinning and air pressure I can obtain really nice job done. The only serious problem is imho poor acrilic's adhesion, so from time to time I switch to Mr Color C paints. They are really durable, but as you mentioned, smelly and toxic, giving a bit headache after long day of modeling. As begginer I have tested many diffetent paints and brands finally to understand which one work for me best and I like (or hate). Excelent tutorial! Regards, Greg
Thanks Greg. Glad you enjoyed it. I used to use acrylics almost exclusively. You can absolutely get good results with them but you’re right…the durability the lacquers give you is unparalleled.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate it. ☝️🙏🏆🍺
Please consider to make a specific tutorial about varnishes. Maybe it is only my problem, but I still struggling to obtain stable, repeatable, nice result with varnish. I have bought mamy brands and tested them but I am not happy with the results. I dont know why there is no problem with paint, but when varnish is sprayed it is different story. I have mrcolor gx, ammo lucky, humbrol clear as my standard products now. I am always afraid to ruin my models by varnishing or by weathering. Varnish is often uneven, thick or not strong enough to withstand weathering process. I hope you could help. Regards, Greg
Hey Greg. I hear you and have had a few issues in the past myself. Best matte and satin varnish I have used that is just about impossible to get wrong is the VMS brand. They will change your modelling life. Tamiya semi-gloss thinned with retarder thinner works a treat too. The best high gloss I have used (although I don’t use gloss very often) is the SMS high gloss varnish.
When spraying your varnish try to keep your pressure around 12-15psi. If too high the paint will dry before hitting the model and give you an uneven finish.
Will add your suggestion to the list though. Appreciate the idea 🙏💪🏆🍻
@@workbenchhobbies4316 Thank you very much. I really apreciate you help me sharing your experience. I will try those products. I have never worked with them, although I have heared good things about VMS brand. Watching your movies I have recently realized my mistake with air pressure. As you mentioned was too high. This is why I like your movies, cos every time I find something to improve on my hobby. Regards, Greg
Thanks for that Clayton, very useful and informative. Have only used acrylics so far but I think I will laquers a try.
Thanks for joining in. Like I said in the video, there’s nothing wrong with acrylics, but I think you’ll find your painting will go next level if you can get your head around the lacquers. 🍀
Top advice and information for many starting out in the hobby. 😄👍
Glad you enjoyed it 🙏🍻🍀
Hi Clayton! This was a great guide on the different paints we use, and as a somewhat nervous airbrush user, it is very useful when deciding which type of paint suits my skill level. After your last video about painting camo and weathering the Meng Leopard, I asked you about the use of lacquer paint in the comments section, and your answer motivated me to try them out. I have to say that I have found them to be a joy to airbrush, even though they do have a strong odour that takes getting used to, even with a lot of ventilation. And yes I wear a mask when using them. So thanks again for the advice mate.
Another guide on thinning the different paint types correctly, and best air pressures, etc., would be very welcome I’m sure.
Love the channel mate, so keep the content coming! Cheers for now!
Love reading your comments Gary. They bring me so much joy.
Congratulations on trying something new, and that’s fantastic news that you had a positive experience.
The smell of the lacquer thinner has never bothered me. I did used to work it the screen print industry though, so maybe I’ve become desensitised 🤷🏻
Thanks again for your support 🙏☝️🤙🏼😎
For Laquers try 1:1 paint to thinner, about 15-18 psi. And as mentioned in video for paint thinning use the expensive stuff.
@@TheM2gerr -
Thanks man, that is very helpful. I have been experimenting, but have not tried the 1:1 ratio. I was having a few issues with the mix, and air pressure, so I will try your suggestion and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again mate. Cheers!
Thanks, Clay, that is really well explained. I was so confused until I came across your video, which was explained in plain English. Love it. Just subscribed. Thanks for all the great work. Cheers
That is such great news - understanding the fundamentals and basic rules of paint is such an important part of the puzzle. Thank you for your kind words and for the subscribe and connection!
Very helpful breakdown!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to comment 🙏🍺👍
Great video Clay. Very informative for us newbies and easy to follow. Loved the smooth jazz too. Looking forward to the vid on airbrush techniques. Seeing those little tins of Humbrol takes me back to sitting in the kitchen working on (perish the thought) lead figures. 😱! Gotta love the early 80s. Keep up the great work and the passion. 👊
Thanks mate. Your calls for helping the beginner modeller did sit with me, so I’m trying to produce more of this style of video for people new to the hobby, as well as others trying to fine tune their skills.
Thanks for connecting mate
🙏☝️
I learned these same basics years ago and now I'm pulling out my hair trying to deal with all these "Acrylic Enamels", "Acrylic Lacquers", "Enamel Lacquer" etc.... Now I see all these paints listed as essentially two of the main three types in one paint. What is up with that??
Yeah, the paint companies really don't make it easy for us! 😂 Essentially though... if you see 'Acrylic Lacquer'..treat it like a lacquer and you can't go wrong. Not sure about the Enamel Lacquer ? You sure that is thing ? Hopefully that video was helpful... 🎨
Definetly a useful guide.I’ve used Ammo acrylics and Vallejo acrylics for most of the time and thinned with Tamiya X-20a.I will definetly think about your tips when painting in the future! :)
That’s great news…and if something is working for you and you are happy with it then keep it up 👍 Appreciate you connecting here on the channel
Hey. Great video really liked it. Can I ask what your opinion is of Diggers White Spirit (the stuff you get at Bunnings) as an Enamel thinner for air brushing?
Hi Lachlan. Diggers ‘white spirit’ I’m unfamiliar with, but I use the Diggers Lacquer thinner to flush my airbrush. Are you painting with enamels? You’d only use a white spirit if that was the case?
However…generally speaking, whilst you can use those bulk buy liquids from the hardware and they will work, you often find the ones designed for hobby work are more refined and will give you a better result.
Hope that helps?
do you have any other channels you would recomend to learn from for military kits? love the content and great information.
Hi 👋 There are plenty of great channels. If you are just starting out just be careful not to try the advanced stuff straight off. Channels like Night Shift are incredible but for the beginner can be overload. Maybe try Panzermeister 36 or Plasmo. They have great, accessible content.
Hope that helps
The wargamming miniatures community really needs to see this. I came from a scale model background, so had already learned a lot of this.. and I've been trying to explain it to them. Like the concept of a primer vs base paint, and how a primer kind of needs to be a lacquer or other 'hot' paint, and even the most well known artists just give me blank looks. And then they go paint normal acrylics on metal and resin and wonder why it flakes off. They said 'I used a primer! I don't know why it didn't work!', but they use the acrylic 'primers', which have no solvents, so can't bite into the material.
Interesting. Maybe someone in that world could share the video in the hope that it may help?
But yes…the fundamentals of paint are so important and once you get your head around it the skys the limit!
Thanks for joining in. 😎👍🥂
@@workbenchhobbies4316 I plan to share it on the forums I'm on, but I'm just one voice. More cross pollination between the two modeling communities could only be a good thing.
Never underestimate the power of one. Appreciate your support 🙏
Great Video and very informative and really well presented!
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment 🙏
Great tutorial. Thanks. 🏁
My pleasure Nicholas - Glad it was helpful. 👍🏼🕺🏼
Thanks mate, well explained and helpful for an ameture like me. Cheers.
Glad it helped
I don't have any experience with models or painting but I recently got my hands on a resin 3D printer. I've been designing earrings and I'm trying to figure out whether a lacquer or an enamel paint would lend earrings a more metallic or, I guess, just a professional look?
Hey - great question. Its probably important to know how you were intending to apply the paint ? If you were brush painting them I would first prime them using a WHITE - lacquer based primer straight from the rattle can and then brush paint with acrylics. If you were looking to just spray them to give the impression of a metallic finish they you can't go past lacquers. You would just need to airbrush them or find the colour in a rattle can and apply the paint that way. Hope that helps
Useful vid. My thoughts. KISS for beginners. TAMIYA acrylics. Start here. Can't go wrong.
So affordable now, the bulk of adult re-beginners today will be doing so equipped with an airbrush/compressor, so Tamiya acrylics are the no brainer go to for a multitude of reasons. Most importantly, they spray beautifully, adhere without primer are hardy, long lasting, AVAILABLE and well supported everywhere.
Tamiya acrylics are a solvent based hybrid. They are NOT water based. Isopropyl alcohol or Tamiya's own proprietary X20A thinners should be used, not water. In fact in the distant past, I've used everything from hardware store turpentine through GP thinners and they work with, but Tamiya thinners (all types) definitely work best.
Pros. No set marketing gimmicks. Widely distributed and available, particularly important in Australia. Inexpensive (relatively). Decent range of colours, albeit not as exhaustive as GSI Creos and many of the water based acrylic manufacturers. Supported by several specific compatible types of thinners. Tamiya X20A & Lacquer Thinners available with or without retarder -the equivalent of GSI Creos leveling thinners when used with this paint. Can be mixed with Tamiya Acrylic Retarder for brush friendly painting and friendlier spraying in hot humid climates. Toxicity and vapour stench level is far lesser than genuine lacquer paints made by both GSI Creos and now Tamiya.
Con. Now that Tamiya Acrylic Retarder is available to facilitate brush painting, the singular con I can think is limited range of military specific label shades of colours as their primary competitor GSI CREOS -comparatively. This requires mixing of Tamiya colours to achieve 100% historically accurate shades in many instances. The beginner or average modeler won't generally be concerned with this however as the available shades will be close enough. e.g. XF-11 J.N. Green & XF-70 Dark Green 2 (IJN) will be close enough to WWII IJN aircraft external Nakajima or Mitsubishi green for total suspense of disbelief pragmatic purposes finish 90% of modellers will be happy with. Knowledgeable obsessives can tint shades to as close as possible to accurately replicate in miniature. This has to be done generally with the other brands too, as seldom are the actual label claimed colours 100% accurate shades. As a bonus, Tamiya is increasingly albeit slowly expanding its range to include more authentic colours of popular subject shades straight out of the bottle. e.g. XF-92 & XF-93 DAK '41 & '42 colours.
Started with a hairy stick and Humbrol enamels like most of us in the British Commonwealth when that was all that was available, accessible and affordable. Discovered Tamiya acrylics when I returned after a decade's hiatus in 1983 and have never lost the love. Also have a large range of Vallejo Model Air and Model Color dropper bottle acrylics acquired after another interim hiatus and subsequent return in 2013 when water based were all the rage, -with some MIG and AK in that range mix -all inter-compatible. Not really a water based acrylics fan. Won't be restocking when they are exhausted. Love GSI Creos solvent acrylics too, but distro & price in AU is an issue for me, so erstwhile Tamiya acrylics it is.
I am currently gradually re-standardising on Tamiya, as with everything they do par state of the art excellence, their paints are no exception AFAIC. As you say, each to their own. That's my preference.
Hey James. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts. Deep and insightful. And completely agree with you about Tamiya. Very hard to go past!
Thanks again for joining in 🙏🇦🇺
Thanks Clayton awsome work, I learned the hard way that tamyia lacquer acrylic is more lacquer than acrylic, and if mixed with a vallejo acrylic thinned with lacquer retarder, you really mess up an air brush.
Interesting point with air brushing acrylics not being the easiest, as a beginner I thought acrylics being water based would be the easiest to use. Have been unhappy with my attempts at fine shading at edges ect.
Hey Kane! Great to hear from you! And yes, you wouldn’t be the first to make that mistake. Lacquers just flow through the air brush better and are far more forgiving with thinning ratios and application volume than acrylics. Stick with your Tamiya and thin with lacquer retarder and you are in the right track.
Hope you are enjoying the channel 🍀🍻
Great video! Thanks for keeping it simple. When are you going to be on On The Bench again? I cant count the number of times if made a little mistake from listening to them then burst out laughing. Once again i love your videos.
Hey David. I always love me time on the show. Let the OTB boys know you do too and you never know 🤷🏻
So much confusion around paint, so I’m pleased to hear you found the info helpful.
Thanks for connecting. It’s appreciated 🙏
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Where would Mr. Aqueous paints fit in? Some say they are acrylics, but can't be thinned with water, some say they are more like the Tamiya 'acrylics' and sort of a hybrid etc. I'm quite lost on them.
Hey 👋 I’ve never used Mr Aqueous, but they are a water based acrylic that can definitely be thinned with water.
The MR COLOR line is their solvent based paint so that would be more towards a lacquer style.
The whole naming of these paints is confusing, so I understand why people struggle. Tamiya is an ‘acrylic lacquer’ and is quite unique in the fact you can thin with water, ipa or lacquer thinner. That means it can work with a few other paints.
So where does mr aqueous sit? It’s a basic water based acrylic from what I can tell. Pretty sure you’d be able to mix it with Tamiya xf paints as long as you were only thinning with water…but test it before trying it.
Best policy if you are learning though is to stick to the one brand / style of paint until you get the basics down and then try expand from there.
Hope that helps 🙏🍻
@nchhobbies4316Thanks a lot mate! That really helped me.
I guess I'll go with either Tamiya X paints or Mr Aqueous.
Can't use lacquer where I paint and couldn't get on with the Ammo Mig Acrylics.
You wouldn’t be the first to have issues with those first gen ammo paints. The new atom range are a lot better
Great tips THANKYOU. I've like and subscribed
Brilliant. Thank you so much 🙌🏼✊🏼💪🙏☝️
Hi Clayton long time watcher first time caller😂 where do you see the the Tamiya LP range coming in to play compared to their normal range
I’m not him but Tamiya LP is a full blown lacquer, like Mr. Color, AK Real Color, SMS or MRP. It’s an exquisite paint.
Great question! It’s just a more aggressive style of lacquer. I’d liken it to the SMS style. I think Tamiya market their xf paints as ‘acrylics’, but because of the way it’s make we are able to make the choice of if you take that down the lacquer path or if we choose to just thin with water. It’s a real hybrid style of paint which is why I like it so much. I guess Tamiya just wanted to have a dedicated lacquer range and dedicated acrylic line. Hope that helps 🍀
Was a big question I had from watching the video myself (also first time caller on your show 😁). Fair to say that the LP line is more conducive to the Lacquer carriers and the XF line the water carriers? Realistically it's a different way to get the pigments on to the models and how they bind to each other.
@@crazylocha2515 LP is a lacquer. No two ways about it. It’s a full on lacquer acrylic paint. XF is an alcohol acrylic. There’s no water involved. Its carrier is alcohol, and it’s one of two paints made that way - the other is Mr. Hobby Aqueous, which is named incorrectly (most likely to get past import restrictions).
There’s nothing “hybrid” about X/XF. It’s still an acrylic. Just the carrier is different, and actually historically acrylics have had lacquer carriers far longer than they’ve had water carriers. The big difference between a water acrylic and a lacquer acrylic is lacquers don’t cure - they don’t need to. Water acrylics cure via first drying then crosslinking happens in the binder to form a hard shell. Alcohol acrylics lie somewhere in between, and have the added benefit of being able to be thinned with lacquer thinner (or MLT) essentially turning them into lacquers.
@@CFster Thank you for the X/XF clarification being alcohol based. I thought so, and wasn't sure. Wanted to pose that part as question specifically. Makes a bunch of things click even firmer now 👍🏆👍. Totally get the crosslinking, especially the X/XF, and how much some of the other water based acrylics vex me when they up and decided to turn into goop when mixing with the Tamiya. Big reason I treated myself to a decent spray booth to be able to branch into more lacquer based, especially the new Outlaw range (lacquer based liquid acrylic pigments) and dealing with the eventual NMF aircraft finishes, usually better in lacquer. Eventually I will get better at clear coats, and now I have better tools and knowledge (best tool😁).
MCLT-- unicorn 🦄 tears 600%. Didn't take long to figure that one out, LoL 🤣☕🐢
I'd really recommend using retarder with vallejo paints, or perhaps with any true acrylic? I had real trouble with vallejo before adding "flow improver" (their retarder).
The video was just about the basics, hence I was suggesting to thin it with water until people at least understood the basics of paint types. I was trying not to complicate the equation for the beginner. Not that I use acrylics anymore, but I would have never sprayed them direct without thinning them with something.
Appreciate you joining in the conversation :)
Can you use acrylic paint over a lacquer primer?
Hey Jason. Absolutely. 👍
Enamels thin and spray just fine using hardware store lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner also helps enamels dry quicker--even faster when a enamel hardener is used.
Hey. Thanks for your comments. When you say ‘enamels’ can you tell me a specific brand you are referring to? And tell me more about the enamel ‘hardener’?
@@workbenchhobbies4316 The Testors (and any other enamel for that matter) enamels in the small glass bottles will work fine sprayed and thinned about 50/50 with hardware store lacquer thinner. A few drops of enamel hardener added to your paint mixture helps speed up the drying process with enamels--particularly gloss enamels. MCW Finishes makes the clear hardener---1003E Enamel Hardener. MCW Finishes has both enamels and air brush ready lacquers. They are at mcwfinishes. Very nice paints.
Thanks for the info. I’m intrigued about thinning enamels with lacquer thinner…I’ll have to give it a try
7:14 that brought back memories!
😂
😆 appreciate you joining in the conversation 🙏
it is a good guide for beginners , but you forged to point out that Acrylics are not as healthy as you might think, because while most Acrylics water based and have no or very little smell doesn't‘ mean there are non toxic. If I have to choose wich type of paint I want inhale( of course you shouldn't do it) than it is Laquer and Enamel paints rather than Acrylics , even they are more toxic , at least I can get them out of my lungs, where as Acrylics stay in your lungs forever by clogging your lungs , simply or better sadly they will dry in your lungs and never come out so the use of a FFP 3 Mask or respirator is advised for all type of paint.especially while Sprayig them,
Hey. Thanks for joining in. I certainly never suggest acrylics were healthy, just the lesser of the evils. A spraying all paints comes with its risks and we need to consider appropriate PPE.
Appreciate your comments and the reminder that we need to be vigilant ✊🏼🍻🙏
@@workbenchhobbies4316 Sorry , i meant with my post not you suggest the Acrylics where healthy. It was more like most People think no smell no harm , most times the opposite is true no smell more harm, most Acrylics have an Epoxid binder alone this is more harmful than thinner for Laquer paint, even there are Epoxid types out who are less harmful doesn't make it much better . Btw I watched your builds and paint jobs . It is awesome and I learned a lot. have a good time.
@@powertothebauer296 So great to have you as part of the community here at the channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge - its appreciated
How much of the problem arises by the initial question not being reasonably researched by the initiator to begin with? Seems that research - and genuine learning - are all too hard and unnecessary in the age of instant gratification.
Thanks for joining in and sharing your thoughts. Hope you are enjoying the channel 🙏☝️💪
@@workbenchhobbies4316 certainly am, you have provided some excellent advice in a very easy to digest and personable manner. Keep up the great work, you’re hitting sixes.
Depends upon the age and casual or not nature of the modeller. When you were a kid, did you care if the model was even painted at all prior to playing with it? Even as you got older, and painted them, most likely didn't have access to an airbrush or information. Today casual modellers and those starting back in the hobby aren't necessarily obsessives. They just want to KISS with an acceptable to them standoff believable finished result without having to research a library. The obsession with accuracy and needing to having all the tools to achieve it only comes with time if it's in one's nature exacerbated by exposure to internet comparative competitiveness which isn't actually a good thing in my book, even if in eternal internal dialogue I find myself undesirably afflicted as conflicted with it. There's a lot to be said for KISS and focus upon enjoyment, whatever that is for the individual. It's a HOBBY.
I think we all go through stages and phases. Personally, I'm over my Dragon detail phase. Although I love the detail I'm tired to the nth degree requiring endless PE, modelling Zimmerit from epoxy or putty and assembly of individual Magic Track individual link tracks in armour. My compromise preference now is their Smart Kit approach with as much detail and accuracy as slide moulding can provide including pre-moulded Zimmerit where necessary, with Dragon DS tracks for the win. Same with model aircraft. I used to love 1/48 Eduard Profipacks, and to some extent still do. Their revised more inclusive Weekend Kit approach of now multiple schemes with stencils suits me better. I can cut my own masks. But armour or air, although I have the dedicated tools, bending seemingly endless minuscule PE parts can take a hike. That just instills dread and incites procrastination rather than enjoyment for me, so why do it? Give me Hasegawa 1/32 detail and fit these days, e.g. Mitsubishi J2M3 Model 21 Raiden, and I'm happy enough with the included level of detail finished result.
@@jamescreswell9037 a great perspective. My comment is a tad off path with your excellent viewpoint, though you do reference the core issue.
One can quickly and easily learn by clicking on a myriad of ‘scale model basics’ videos on YT. My comment stands, from repeated observation in my two hobbies. Some people are too lazy in thought and action to even try and learn themselves - even at the most cursory level. I’m not advocating a deep theoretical knowledge before commencing, but as you grow in confidence and realise more, it’s so easy now to fill in your knowledge gaps in a matter of 10 minutes.
It’s not a competitive issue, in my view. Though you rightly point out it can be for some. So be it.
@@Beniah107 You're absolutely right re desire for or level of knowledge disparity.
One supposes it depends upon an individual's motivation for modelling. Mine came about as a consequence of the historical and subsequent technical interest even as a child, so the horse was before the cart from the outset with modelling a way to enhance and express my interest.
As I'm older, I think I tend to be less critical of others' lack of erudition, perhaps because I have had a lifetime to accrue mine and my perspective may be biased by that.
And not everyone is left brain orientated, so perhaps the creative artistic aspect of assembly and painting is what appeals? Ultimately, as long as they gain pleasure from the hobby.