If carlsberg made metrology benches :) awesome 👌 how to tell me you do best fit without telling me you do best fit alignment. Ps hambini my fellow 5 year old. Chuck us a bb shell over so I can do some cylindricity roundness runout parallelism thickness deviation and profile measurement. Ideally with a correctly toleranced drawing. I could do a real world comparison of competition vs hambini if you have a good example of a bad bb
The Faro arm is proof that you can always go deeper. Have all the commercial bike tools? Welcome to the industrial priced stuff. I googled it and it looks like they start at $20,000.
A DAG (derailleur alignment gauge) should definitely be in the first category. No amount of gear adjustment is effective until the hanger is straight. Sure you can live without it, if you don't mind your expensive bike shifting like a cheap big box bike.
That Faro arm is a nifty piece of kit. Hadn't seen one of them before. An ultrasonic cleaner, even a chintzy import one, wouldn't be a bad addition. The bike's frame can be dirty, the drivechain cannot! It works much better, and possibly even easier, than those plastic chain-scrubber enclosures too.
It’s remarkable even with custom internals that you have success with that lathe, Bravo! The CMM is very handy, been using them for decades on motorcycle chassis. Great utilization of space and nice assortment of tools!
Excellent! Getting quality tools (e.g. Mitutoyu calipers) is excellent advice. Your set of gauges is fantastic, and that Faro arm is something I didn't even know existed, including that SKF tool. After using a lot of hand tools, I'd recommend few upgrades: Wera Hex Keys. They lock in better, have tighter tolerances, don't round off the bolt sockets. Color coded, too. NFS/Silca Race Grease NFS/Silca chain lube -- Squirt will gum up your derailleur pulleys unless you clean them each time you lube the chain. Efficient Velo Tools nylon hammer -- the dead blow is good for knocking out bearings, but EVT is best for delicate work. Abbey Tools hanger alignment tool -- beautifully made and compact P&K Lie truing stand -- crazy expensive but super-precise, super-rigid, and self-centers the wheel w/o dishing tool BTW, Efficient Velo Tools makes the best bike tools, but are very expensive. The upside is they are precise, tough, and designed by people who use them to be, well, efficient.
Thanks for the comment Eric. I like the idea of that truing stand. If I don't make one I might go after that. A few people have asked me if I can make them a truing stand, I might actually design one.
Not into Wera Allen L keys, they are overpriced and there are few scenarios when an Allen head socket on a ratchet or a p-handle wrench wasn’t more useful/faster in a given situation. L-keys give poor control and grip leading to stripped bolt heads.
As someone who worked hard to get to a level were I was happy myself an engineer, its sad that the term has lost all its standing. The people that masquerade as engineer do the real ones a great disservice. I'm sure Hambini would have better words to use. The other delusions of grandeur that annoy are A) "project manager". Squillions have them on the business card but wouldn't know project from projectile. B) Executive - especially sales executive. They are a bloody shop assistant. I think its a side effect of the nanny state/political correctness and the desire that we shouldn't ever hurt anyone's feelings. bollox.
@@BooklessT My brother works in Silicon Valley since 1998. He showed me his business card that read "Vice-President" in sales, and I was super impressed, like he was the number two guy. Almost PRESIDENT. He said there were like 20 vice-presidents. Every salesman was a vice-president. Titles are worth very little, if you are accomplished and skilled at your job, you don't need a title. However, Engineer to me, isn't a title, but a term for person who went to college and got a specific degree in engineering. Like a lawyer who got a J.D. and took the bar, or doctor who went through all that schooling. My sister has a PHD in Political Science. So she too is a doctor. She would never use the term.
@@tranzco1173 It's funny. I've been in some tech companies that really are on the cutting edge with some of the brightest minds in their field and a common approach is that engineers just picked their own job titles. Most would pick something utterly silly, so if someone handed you a business card reading "Samurai Pizza Cat" you'd probably look at a double PhD changing the world with a new algorithm he worked on for the last 10 years. And if you wanted something cool sounding you better had the chops to back it up. Andy Hertzfeld famously had the title "Software Wizard" - which he got away with by virtue of being the mastermind behind the original Macintosh's operating system.
Dear Hambini, I came across your channel the other day and I am now happily working my way through all of your videos and whilst I may not be the sharpest tool in the box, I have at least learned to hit my mute button prior to one of your videos starting. Watching this video about all the different tools that you use for your work on bikes, both astounded and dismayed me. At this point, I should mention that I'm 65 years of age and stopped riding my last bike (Raleigh 10 speed!) on my 16th birthday when I purchased a moped (thank you Barbara bloody Castle) which of course I traded in for a 250cc motorbike as soon as I became 17. Returning to your tool video, would it surprise you to know that when 'I were a lad', a newly purchased bike came with a tool-kit. This tool-kit consisted of two flat, hand-sized pieces of mild steel with various cut-outs that matched every nut and bolt on the bike, including the 'notched rings' that retained the bearings in what you would call 'the bottom bracket'? Other than a hammer to get the cotter-pins on the cranks out, you could dismantle the entire bike using these two simple tools. Life was less complicated back then... mind you, the (steel) bikes were bloody heavy and alloy frames, whilst not unknown were too expensive for most folk. Here's a question for you (or your viewers) - what happened to centre-pull brakes? Half a century ago any half-decent bike was fitted with centre-pull brakes but I never see them now, even on top of the range bikes. Why did they go out of favour? Anyway, thank you for your videos. It's always a pleasure to watch a good man (or in your case a good engineer) doing a grand job of work!
Enjoyed the vid. and wishing I had more time and $$ for such nice tooling you have. I appreciate a tool is only good when in the hands of a knowledgeable user....as yourself. Cheers from down under Australia 😎
I true my wheels in situ on the bike. That way they are tried against how they fit in the frame. Observe distances between each chainstay but hold felt tip against seatstay while spinning wheel to find points that need adjusting. I have not needed to replace my bike every couple of years. This is a '74 Raleigh Grand Prix made in Canada. I am also an Engineer ( electronics, not a mechy) but my course way back then encompassed other disciplines. Your vibration analyser was the only tool that I would lust after.
Most useful too to a pro mechanic that no-one sells is a piece of a spoke 6" long with a hook bent on each end. Use it to hold the ends of the chain together while inserting the pin/masterlink.
It takes more time to put that on then just connecting the chain with the tension taken out. I’ve put literally hundreds of chains on without needing to do that. To each his own.
yes you forgot this one: they admit that they don´t need torque wrenches and measure by feel. because they are that good after all the years of experience. BUT they get nervous if you come along with a carbon frame wanting them to tight the seat post nut. they are like: "nah, better go to your manufacturer"
@@RevoltingRudi Yeah, there isn't one person on this planet capable of properly torquing a bolt by feel, this is bullshit. If you go to a bike shop and the mechanic doesn't use a torque wrench for everything, just flee.
People who question the radar plots or measured tolerances Hambini mentions in his videos should watch this video. Suffice it to say, he's not just guessing. He has also occasionally mentioned bringing frames into work to measure with industrial-grade equipment. I've never seen a bike shop with a micrometer, most bike shop staff these days barely know how to adjust a derailleur. This is a different level.
Wow, jealous you have your own FARO. Have you considered a laser head for scanning? I’d have thought a point cloud scan would be easier for parts such as the crank set - I only have basic experience with them though, I’m interested to know why your preference is such. Just discovered your channel, it’s great. Keep it up 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment. The laser scan would be faster but the head costs a lot more than the pointer. At the end of the day you still have to put the geometry in as it doesn't have that level of AI. I guess it depends on whether you use it enough to warrant the expenditure. I'm not a metrology expert, I only use it practically and more in my spare time than for work.
Bore mics, comparators and micrometers brigs back many memories… still have my first micrometer from 40 Years ago. Also used to work a production ward 7 lathe in my youth …. You know your xhit 👍👍👍👍👍
You forgot the threadcutter ;) I have the same issue with the Park Tool wheeltruing stand although i got the better version at home (TS 2.2 the metal is thicker, its a lot better compared to the TS 2.1 which i use in my shop), i think it disarranges itself depending how hard you close it on the axle, you can see the rim moving to the left when tightening the stand. It is still the best wheeltruing stand for that price, if you are good you can true a wheel to up to 0.1mm accuracy with it. You are one of the few people on the internet i can learn something from, i just watched the videos about the open bicycle frame. I have encountered similar problems on bicycle frames from look, especially on the lower class and i had two issues with the ax lightness vial evo ultra and the AX Meilenstein wheelset. Around 30% of look frames i sold came back after a few weeks all with the same problem, noise coming from the bb when pedaling. The bearings didnt fit anymore. the solution was a bb with a thread on the shell so you tighten both bearing shells within the bb. The AX vial evo did break twice on the chain stay (drive side) right behind the bb housing. The company said its the riders fault because his weight was over 85kg, but it was actually 75kg, they wouldn´t believe me so i had to pay the customer. Also the Meilenstein wheel set was not really true. They sent it back with the words that it still fulfills the tolerance, which is 0.69mm(!!!) so when i meassured it, it was 0.67mm off the center on on spot. That is ridiculous, i can build much better wheels for a 10th of the price.
Have the cheaper Park wheel truing stand and it is pretty average as well (end up having to use dishing guage a lot) - def not as good as most of their stuff. Crown race remover and star nut installer (obs not in the age of carbon steerers) make life so much quicker/ simpler/ mildly satisfying. Love your vids- there's such a chasm between proper engineering (tolerances, materials science, fatigue, boundary layers etc) and the bullshit in the marketing and media. Have been watching the docs on the SR spyplane tech especially re the titanium and it makes the bike industry look like a bunch of amateurs.
I'm a professional bicycle mechanic and I DO actually have most of these tools, mostly similar if not better quality ones. :) I take wrenching very seriously. All about precision and consistency, especially when removing and installing cartridge bearings. Rare of me to ever use a punch.
Park bearing and race install tool is pretty cool.I like that very much.Its the only thing limits most regular bikers because without it becomes pretty hard to install.Sure you can make PVC DIY but its not accurate... Anyway good for you to have most tools!
I've never used a park tool truing stand and seen it in perfect alignment and I swear to god they revert to being crooked soon after every time you adjust them
Nice rundown, but I'd put cone wrenches in the primary kit. I still use my bike frame as a truing stand - amateur hour, but it works. Canadian Tire vernier. At least I have one
May I suggest adding or getting the latest Park Tool disc brake caliper mount facing tool? It would be great if you could start roasting frame builders on how bad their caliper mounts are. They are turning into the next big thing thats out of epic on high end bikes after bottom brackets.
A good set of SAE & Metric Tap & Die tools. It's allot cheaper in the long wrong to buy one to then having to replace things like axles with beat-up threads if your going to get any where close to that far into working on bikes, I've been repairing and upgrading since the early 80's.
Among all your basic stuff, I didn't see any bits for routing cables through frames. Nothing wastes more time without appropriate tools/techniques for this. I also have a micro camera with usb connection to smart phone for looking inside frames.
Funny how you mentioned how the Allen keys round out when they're cheaper quality. All the park tools Allen keys round off after a long time of use but i blame it on the shyte hardware that comes on the stock bikes. Its mind blowing loosely the Allen wrenches fit on stock parts.
Chain whip but no cassette tool? I'd also put some kind of Torx T25 tool, tyre levers (too obvious?) and cable cutters in category 1 and repair stand before derailleur hanger aligment tool. Oh, and you need some kind of screwdriver for most derailleurs... But you should have those anyway.
Shimano use JIS on their cross heads using standard Philips heads will ruin your Shimano derailleurs I'd put a JIS crosshead screw driver in that first cat too.
pierrot867 you’re killing me dude, there is not much torque being delivered to those Phillips heads and you are doing something wrong if you are stripping them out with the “wrong screwdriver.”
40 years ago you would have a full or partial Campagnolo tool kit. The micrometers were always a good option. But you could level your seat with the Campy kit.
great stuff.I absolutely agree with you, great advice, I like to research every tool individually, and get the best one, but some times I just have to get something. my preferred chain cleaning device is Finish Line Grunge Brush, due to how easy & fast it's to use. Most tools I got are from park tools, but I needed tools fast they were the easiest to get, but I got some bike specific tools that are not park tool too, like abbey tools cassette removal tool, great. but I got some old tools I got from my dad, got old Hazet pliers, perfect for wire ends, much better than using all in one tool & clamping wire end with cable cutters inside wire end clamping tool, silly. bad access inconvenient and easy to hurt yourself or impossible in some cases to do. my experience with park tool torque wrenches is they have quite noticeable play in the head, but better than supermarket cheap tools. 4:43 I sadly had to use this more than most, cus of my horrible 2014 Trek fuel ex, after every long mtb ride I had to use it, hope for replacement frame, bad engineering imo, cus it was drive train abuser, I have only used it once on my other bikes, with new hanger, but the tool worked for me, no major complaints, but there is a more expensive option abbey tools make a nice one, I haven't tried it.
Good info. I've never tried the abbey tools, they are not so easy to get in the UK/Germany so I tend to have to go for park or tacx tools. But I agree, get the best tools for the job. Every one has it's benefits.
the hanger alignment can be done using the cheapest 10mm rear axle, a long piece of metal with a 10mm hole and some nuts. does the job, even if not as precise.
Great video, amazing measuring tools. I have one question with regards to hanger alignment tool. I think it is poor design and has to be perfectly manufactured in order to achieve good results. The head of the tool rotates freely so any misalignment in head in relation to axis of the tool will be massively amplified. If my math is correct, 0,5 degree of misalignment is going to result in 6mm offset on the rim. In my opinion this is too much, for such a little misalignment in the axis of the tool. Furthermore the head has to be very stiff, so it won´t move in the process of alignment. I do not own the measuring tools in order to proof my point, but maybe you can do it? (if you want, it would be interesting video :D ). I just have enough of people saying that almost all derailleur hangers are completely off from factory.... Well maybe your park tool Dag is complete rubbish. I think too many people just believe, that those tools are 100% perfect, reliable and aligned from factory... Of course derailleur will work in the some range, that is why it does not have to be perfectly aligned, but i think that tool is doing more damage than good. Maybe eyeballing is more precise than using this tool. Marian
That Faro arm is a lick piece of kit, I can now understand why something that you describe as "miles out" is probably 0.5mm. I think I'll stick to the basics with the odd bit of the next level up and get my nerd fix from this channel.
I avoid Squirt Lube. It lubes nicely, but tends to form thick plugs that will jam a rear derailleur unless one is religious about cleaning the pulleys.
You should’ve pointed out your bike pump has the meter where you can read it. I have 2 pumps with different heads. I use a Lezyne head so I can use a std 60mm stem on a 55mm deep wheel without using valve extensions. I use a std clamp type pump head for fast inflation on shallow climbing wheels.
Don’t want to go too off topic but I saw you like the squirt lube, I can’t get on with the stuff, after 40 or so miles my chain sounds dry and raspy, I was told that I hadn’t put enough on but even after multiple applications it was the same, switched back to Muc off dry ceramic lube which seems much quieter, can’t stand a noisy chain!
I've had this problem before and I persevered, eventually I traced it down to the degreaser I was using. I switched to virosol and then the squirt has stuck. From a silence point of view, I would swear by Squirt but I guess everyone is going to have their own view.
Hambini, I see one piece of equipment that would really suit what you do! An XRF gun. Now that LIBS has somewhat taken over when it comes to handheld material identification, maybe you could pick up a used XRF gun for your shop? :-)
Great stuff. For your dropout centering tool, I just used a properly dished rear wheel. How did I dish it? By removing the chain from the derailleur (using a “good frame”, and flipping the wheel and adjusting the spokes until the wheel was centered at the Bottom Bracket. I built quite a few good wheels that way, using brake blocks as a trueing guide. . . Now, the cost of spokes and rim is more than a complete wheel. . . so I no longer bother. At least, I’ve got all the stuff on the first table, plus some English Threaded bottom bracket thread chasing tools, picked up when a local bike shop went out of business 35 years ago. . .
@RollinRat Yep I started building my own wheels because I lost trust in off the shelf - In near 40yrs of cycling I have had only a couple of spokes break - A wheel takes me hours but is very satisfying to do
Hi Hambini, I saw you on the GCN video. At the end of it you mention common mistakes during installation and I was wondering if how I press bearings in a track bike hub by using previous bearings as bushings is incorrect or not (video is on my channel). If I got you well, I guess not but I'd like to be sure. Thanks a lot
Appreciate the honesty and hands-on presentation. Yet, for someone who care so much about precision and tight tolerances you are sometimes pretty sloppy with your wording. An example is that sand-filled mallet. The sand dampens the blow, so the mallet does not rebound*, not "rebound back". The prefix "re" already means "back", so "rebound back" is redundant, or to be more precise: tautological.
Mighty useful presentation for someone wanting to know what's out there and what's worth having (regardless of level of expertise - bar seasoned experts of course). Some gratuitous drivel: 0:05: "I'm gonna talk to you about my tools" - no comment 3:47 : "Dead-blow hammer"? I didn't even know these existed. On the "to buy" list. I just gotta have one now. I need something to bash my head with that won't rebound. 4:05: LOL even though all these Facom tools are probably worth much more than the best bike I've ever owned, I'm now convinced I need to invest on a proper set of allen keys. 4:45: "rear derailleur alignment tool" Yet another I didn't know existed! I reckon it's easy to make some contraption to the same effect. I always wondered why all my old bikes have bent/skewed derailleurs! I always thought they were made that way and that I was just too ham-fisted to align them. 5:25 : "this is a press that I've made" I was wondering what the make was and then immediately thinking that this can be made very easily by nearly anyone. 6:42 : " ... a cheap vernier, it usually reads low" So if you're on a budget, get a cheap one and grind the jaws sharp as a knife? It's only 10 quid - i'd say nothing to lose trying if you have a steady hand and a good eye. But how would I know the result is actually more accurate? Hmm.... 7:42 : "if you know the right kind of bike shop, you can do that" LOL No comment. 7:58: "I'm not sure the Park tool is as good as it's cut out to be" Crikey! And it is a tool that costs a grand? 15:19: "vibration stick or vibration pen" LOL imagine guys on the shop floor saying "pass me the vibration stick" all the time! Yet another tool I didn't know existed and now I want it. Make that 3 of them, one for each axis? Hmmm... how much is a cheap one?
@RollinRat Cheers for that. I didn't find a special tool on RJ's channel, only saw him use a rear wheel as a truing indicator. I saw a video on a homemade tool on OZ cycle's channel. TBH I wasn't impressed: rather a lot of trouble with questionable effect. The rear wheel trick seemed quite clever. If you haven't got one though, an adjustable spanner will achieve 80% of the effect. Bent rear derailleurs annoy me a great deal but nothing annoys me more than bent brake levers, handlebars and front derailleurs, in that order. In fact, I've never managed to perfectly straighten a front derailleur but I can live them being misaligned as long as there's no chain rub.
@RollinRat Cheers for that! This makes much more sense and seems rather handy to have in the toolbox. He also stresses the important points to pay attention to when constructing it. I don't own a modern bicycle so 11 gear drivetrain considerations are not an issue for me. I still want my bike parts to be properly aligned of course to minimize chain, cogs etc. wear and prolong component longevity.
@RollinRat Thanks for the tip. Personally,, I don't like Sram. My own preferences are Shimano and Campagnolo on racers and Shimano on mountain bikes. I don't own a Cyclocross bicycle but if I did, ideally, I'd want it kitted out with Campagnolo. But for robustness and value for money, it's always Shimano for me. When 10 speed cassettes came out I thought it was interesting but 11 speed cassettes are crazy. I'm not keen on replacing drivetrains all the time. Frankly, unless you're an athlete, I see no reason why you shouldn't have three rings at the front. It doesn't look as neat as a two disk bike but it is more robust. 3x7=21. 3x8=24!!! Now, how often will that need replacing? Plus you can lower your lowest gear this way without compromising gear range. One thing I saw in RJ the bike guy''s channel that I thought was really interesting was a video on an automatic rear shifter. I was amazed to see that it worked. I've never seen one of those before. I'd sure like to try one if I ever came across it.
I know you are a busy guy and maybe wont see this question but as a new subscriber I have been bing watching and learning things I never knew . I was wondering your thoughts on threaded bottom brackets , I was hoping to find a vid you may have done but have not . I see you focus on pressed fit type BB mostly but was wondering your thoughts on the threaded design . I know they are on the low end of the scale I guess but I need your wisdom on the topic ..
A threaded BB forces manufacturers to get the thread interface correctly so they cannot skirt around the issue. It also requires a machining operation to cut the threads so it is by default a time consuming process. With pressfit, they can skip a few steps to make the frame manufacturer faster and therefore it becomes less accurate - i think this is where the problem arises from primarily. Hope that helps Hambini
Thank you very much for the education . Seems odd if I understand you correctly that threaded BB are superior in some ways yet are only used on cheaper bikes for the most part . Seems like there is a lot of funny business in the cycling industry . Love the fact you set them straight . Have a nice day buddy..
Watch out, most those torque tools don't have a removable and flippable head, and only torque controllably in one direction (for you Brits: clockwise). Instead of buying two, I'd recommend considering one for “insert tools” in the 5-45 or 4-40 Nm range or thereabouts (Hazet makes those, but so do other manufacturers). Then get a ratchet head or two in your favorite size from Chinesia or Czechgermania - with that low torques on bikes they won't go kaputt right away, or practically never.
hey! how are the 9100 c60 wheels treating you? the 9100 series wheels look very very nice, i'm considering getting one. i feel like it's hard to get a wheel with better precision manufacturing than that wheel
Space constraints aside, shouldn't your truing stand be the other way around so the tolerance gauge is toward you? Disclaimer: I don't work for any non tooling industries nor do I work in a bike shop.
5:44 I drop tools a lot so I managed to bend a threaded rod for truing stand, I can still use it, but annoying, only enough for the treads to the knob to come loose, no clue where to get replacement, but maybe need new tool then, unless they would warranty it I don't know. no matter how careful I am I will eventually drop almost all the tools. I also see a lot of the Park tools tools are just rebranded tools with their colors and branding on, I don't see a reason to pay extra, they use Bondhus Allen keys for example one tool I need now is small socket with high engagement, so far the most recommended is Snap on, but I haven't decided yet, do you have any experience or advice? I see you got Facom, any gripes about it? since you got it you probably like it, I already got several sockets, only need small socket wrench, I haven't looked much into Facom yet.
My facom stuff is quite old... Now they are owned by stanley black and decker and the quality has probably gone down hill. But I have no problems with it. All of my stuff is made in France but the newer stuff is rebranded from worldwide. The other brands that are good are Gedore and if you are on a budget TENG.
thx, I did not know that. I haven't heard of Gedore, I don't care about budget, I want best tool I can get & buy once. I see Stanley assortment boxes are popular, but I got SOrtimo T-Boxx which have worked well for me. I haven't tried any Stanley stuff. Only Teng I got is a bits adapter.
@@Hambini I went for teng ratchet, bits, perfekt fit in bolts, and between the ratchet head, almost zero play, it looks promising, it the easiest and fastest solution, as there is a shop selling teng in my area. Teng has more accurate size on the bits, problem with parktool is their torque wrenches have alot of play, not as much as the cheap department store garbage, but enough to be very notisable.
@@Hambini one of the the next things to do with my toolbox is to get more tools, but I got most fo the needed tools, and get Kaizen foam, to get everything I got all neatly placed, cus now I got a lot of wasted space.
I notice on multiple videos you mention that ZIPP has crap bearings. How do you score or rate DT Swiss bearings particularly on DT 240 hubs and your thoughts on ENVE wheels? Nice videos by the way!
Interested in the Press, been thinking of turning something up for a while now (usually borrow one) I notice some on general sale use bearings inbetween the actual cup inserts, do these make any significant difference when using it? Thanks G.
@@Hambini cool, i found some used ones but wow, a bit too expensive for something im not sure how often i would use. thanks for the response, excellent spot on gcntech! hope we see u on there more :D
Just love the way you install equipment costing tens of thousands of dollars on a piece of chipboard mounted on sawhorses. So down to earth lol.
how expensive is all his gear?
If carlsberg made metrology benches :) awesome 👌 how to tell me you do best fit without telling me you do best fit alignment.
Ps hambini my fellow 5 year old. Chuck us a bb shell over so I can do some cylindricity roundness runout parallelism thickness deviation and profile measurement. Ideally with a correctly toleranced drawing. I could do a real world comparison of competition vs hambini if you have a good example of a bad bb
Jesus. And here I thought my little allen key set and home made chain whip were the shit. That faro arm does look impressive.
Thanks for the feedback!
It looks impressive even when you're 3D scaning job shop ;)
The Faro arm is proof that you can always go deeper. Have all the commercial bike tools? Welcome to the industrial priced stuff. I googled it and it looks like they start at $20,000.
A DAG (derailleur alignment gauge) should definitely be in the first category. No amount of gear adjustment is effective until the hanger is straight. Sure you can live without it, if you don't mind your expensive bike shifting like a cheap big box bike.
A fascinating insight into the bike workshop of a talented engineer! Thanks for doing this - a very enjoyable watch.
Thanks for the feedback. It is always welcomed.
DITTO! ..Nigel.
Thank you for taking the time to do these videos mate. I'm really enjoying them.👍
That Faro arm is a nifty piece of kit. Hadn't seen one of them before.
An ultrasonic cleaner, even a chintzy import one, wouldn't be a bad addition. The bike's frame can be dirty, the drivechain cannot! It works much better, and possibly even easier, than those plastic chain-scrubber enclosures too.
Cool, I have a set of Allen keys too
It’s remarkable even with custom internals that you have success with that lathe, Bravo!
The CMM is very handy, been using them for decades on motorcycle chassis.
Great utilization of space and nice assortment of tools!
Since I bought a rear mech alignment tool, I'd put it in the "should have" category, I find it very useful to have
That skf tool is pretty cool/nerdy and that faro arm!
Dropout hanger alignment tool totally essential if you like playing with old bikes- gears run soo much sweeter
Nerd vs God of bike knowledge.......you decide :-) you are doing wonders for the amateur cyclist.
You da man ! The entire kit for any would-be tech cyclist! But I must say that the onesie outfit makes it all flow together. Thumbs up
Excellent! Getting quality tools (e.g. Mitutoyu calipers) is excellent advice. Your set of gauges is fantastic, and that Faro arm is something I didn't even know existed, including that SKF tool. After using a lot of hand tools, I'd recommend few upgrades:
Wera Hex Keys. They lock in better, have tighter tolerances, don't round off the bolt sockets. Color coded, too.
NFS/Silca Race Grease
NFS/Silca chain lube -- Squirt will gum up your derailleur pulleys unless you clean them each time you lube the chain.
Efficient Velo Tools nylon hammer -- the dead blow is good for knocking out bearings, but EVT is best for delicate work.
Abbey Tools hanger alignment tool -- beautifully made and compact
P&K Lie truing stand -- crazy expensive but super-precise, super-rigid, and self-centers the wheel w/o dishing tool
BTW, Efficient Velo Tools makes the best bike tools, but are very expensive. The upside is they are precise, tough, and designed by people who use them to be, well, efficient.
Thanks for the comment Eric. I like the idea of that truing stand. If I don't make one I might go after that. A few people have asked me if I can make them a truing stand, I might actually design one.
Not into Wera Allen L keys, they are overpriced and there are few scenarios when an Allen head socket on a ratchet or a p-handle wrench wasn’t more useful/faster in a given situation. L-keys give poor control and grip leading to stripped bolt heads.
You are next level brother! Must be so satisfying to build or fix stuff in your man cave.
A man and his tools. Great show.
"An engineer" in the UK can be the bloke that designs a nuclear power station or the bloke that fixes your boiler.
Or a garbage man, a sanitation engineer.
As someone who worked hard to get to a level were I was happy myself an engineer, its sad that the term has lost all its standing. The people that masquerade as engineer do the real ones a great disservice. I'm sure Hambini would have better words to use. The other delusions of grandeur that annoy are A) "project manager". Squillions have them on the business card but wouldn't know project from projectile. B) Executive - especially sales executive. They are a bloody shop assistant. I think its a side effect of the nanny state/political correctness and the desire that we shouldn't ever hurt anyone's feelings. bollox.
@@BooklessT My brother works in Silicon Valley since 1998. He showed me his business card that read "Vice-President" in sales, and I was super impressed, like he was the number two guy. Almost PRESIDENT. He said there were like 20 vice-presidents. Every salesman was a vice-president. Titles are worth very little, if you are accomplished and skilled at your job, you don't need a title. However, Engineer to me, isn't a title, but a term for person who went to college and got a specific degree in engineering. Like a lawyer who got a J.D. and took the bar, or doctor who went through all that schooling. My sister has a PHD in Political Science. So she too is a doctor. She would never use the term.
@@BooklessT ok boomer
@@tranzco1173 It's funny. I've been in some tech companies that really are on the cutting edge with some of the brightest minds in their field and a common approach is that engineers just picked their own job titles. Most would pick something utterly silly, so if someone handed you a business card reading "Samurai Pizza Cat" you'd probably look at a double PhD changing the world with a new algorithm he worked on for the last 10 years. And if you wanted something cool sounding you better had the chops to back it up. Andy Hertzfeld famously had the title "Software Wizard" - which he got away with by virtue of being the mastermind behind the original Macintosh's operating system.
Dear Hambini,
I came across your channel the other day and I am now happily working my way through all of your videos and whilst I may not be the sharpest tool in the box, I have at least learned to hit my mute button prior to one of your videos starting.
Watching this video about all the different tools that you use for your work on bikes, both astounded and dismayed me. At this point, I should mention that I'm 65 years of age and stopped riding my last bike (Raleigh 10 speed!) on my 16th birthday when I purchased a moped (thank you Barbara bloody Castle) which of course I traded in for a 250cc motorbike as soon as I became 17.
Returning to your tool video, would it surprise you to know that when 'I were a lad', a newly purchased bike came with a tool-kit. This tool-kit consisted of two flat, hand-sized pieces of mild steel with various cut-outs that matched every nut and bolt on the bike, including the 'notched rings' that retained the bearings in what you would call 'the bottom bracket'? Other than a hammer to get the cotter-pins on the cranks out, you could dismantle the entire bike using these two simple tools. Life was less complicated back then... mind you, the (steel) bikes were bloody heavy and alloy frames, whilst not unknown were too expensive for most folk.
Here's a question for you (or your viewers) - what happened to centre-pull brakes? Half a century ago any half-decent bike was fitted with centre-pull brakes but I never see them now, even on top of the range bikes. Why did they go out of favour?
Anyway, thank you for your videos. It's always a pleasure to watch a good man (or in your case a good engineer) doing a grand job of work!
Enjoyed the vid. and wishing I had more time and $$ for such nice tooling you have. I appreciate a tool is only good when in the hands of a knowledgeable user....as yourself. Cheers from down under Australia 😎
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a regular viewer of yours!
I true my wheels in situ on the bike. That way they are tried against how they fit in the frame. Observe distances between each chainstay but hold felt tip against seatstay while spinning wheel to find points that need adjusting. I have not needed to replace my bike every couple of years. This is a '74 Raleigh Grand Prix made in Canada. I am also an Engineer ( electronics, not a mechy) but my course way back then encompassed other disciplines. Your vibration analyser was the only tool that I would lust after.
I haven't got a torque wrench but I'm good at making the clicking sound !!
Brilliant. Those tools!!!!!
The FARO arm is the lick.
Jon Cannings Hambini’s torque wrench is choice. I’m excited for your team up feature.
Fascinating. I particularly like the lathe but I would love it more if it had made me a BB90 Hambini bearing 👍🏻.
I can wait !
Most useful too to a pro mechanic that no-one sells is a piece of a spoke 6" long with a hook bent on each end. Use it to hold the ends of the chain together while inserting the pin/masterlink.
Most chain breakers come with a tool that does just that.
RJ the bike guy taught me this
It takes more time to put that on then just connecting the chain with the tension taken out. I’ve put literally hundreds of chains on without needing to do that. To each his own.
Most local bike shops I know measure by eye and ear :D Hilarious.
yes you forgot this one: they admit that they don´t need torque wrenches and measure by feel. because they are that good after all the years of experience. BUT they get nervous if you come along with a carbon frame wanting them to tight the seat post nut. they are like: "nah, better go to your manufacturer"
@@RevoltingRudi Yeah, there isn't one person on this planet capable of properly torquing a bolt by feel, this is bullshit. If you go to a bike shop and the mechanic doesn't use a torque wrench for everything, just flee.
Nice tool collection. I need to up my game...
People who question the radar plots or measured tolerances Hambini mentions in his videos should watch this video. Suffice it to say, he's not just guessing. He has also occasionally mentioned bringing frames into work to measure with industrial-grade equipment. I've never seen a bike shop with a micrometer, most bike shop staff these days barely know how to adjust a derailleur. This is a different level.
Wow, jealous you have your own FARO. Have you considered a laser head for scanning? I’d have thought a point cloud scan would be easier for parts such as the crank set - I only have basic experience with them though, I’m interested to know why your preference is such.
Just discovered your channel, it’s great. Keep it up 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment. The laser scan would be faster but the head costs a lot more than the pointer. At the end of the day you still have to put the geometry in as it doesn't have that level of AI. I guess it depends on whether you use it enough to warrant the expenditure.
I'm not a metrology expert, I only use it practically and more in my spare time than for work.
Bore mics, comparators and micrometers brigs back many memories… still have my first micrometer from 40 Years ago. Also used to work a production ward 7 lathe in my youth …. You know your xhit 👍👍👍👍👍
You forgot the threadcutter ;) I have the same issue with the Park Tool wheeltruing stand although i got the better version at home (TS 2.2 the metal is thicker, its a lot better compared to the TS 2.1 which i use in my shop), i think it disarranges itself depending how hard you close it on the axle, you can see the rim moving to the left when tightening the stand. It is still the best wheeltruing stand for that price, if you are good you can true a wheel to up to 0.1mm accuracy with it.
You are one of the few people on the internet i can learn something from, i just watched the videos about the open bicycle frame. I have encountered similar problems on bicycle frames from look, especially on the lower class and i had two issues with the ax lightness vial evo ultra and the AX Meilenstein wheelset. Around 30% of look frames i sold came back after a few weeks all with the same problem, noise coming from the bb when pedaling. The bearings didnt fit anymore. the solution was a bb with a thread on the shell so you tighten both bearing shells within the bb. The AX vial evo did break twice on the chain stay (drive side) right behind the bb housing. The company said its the riders fault because his weight was over 85kg, but it was actually 75kg, they wouldn´t believe me so i had to pay the customer. Also the Meilenstein wheel set was not really true. They sent it back with the words that it still fulfills the tolerance, which is 0.69mm(!!!) so when i meassured it, it was 0.67mm off the center on on spot. That is ridiculous, i can build much better wheels for a 10th of the price.
Have the cheaper Park wheel truing stand and it is pretty average as well (end up having to use dishing guage a lot) - def not as good as most of their stuff. Crown race remover and star nut installer (obs not in the age of carbon steerers) make life so much quicker/ simpler/ mildly satisfying. Love your vids- there's such a chasm between proper engineering (tolerances, materials science, fatigue, boundary layers etc) and the bullshit in the marketing and media. Have been watching the docs on the SR spyplane tech especially re the titanium and it makes the bike industry look like a bunch of amateurs.
I'm a professional bicycle mechanic and I DO actually have most of these tools, mostly similar if not better quality ones. :) I take wrenching very seriously. All about precision and consistency, especially when removing and installing cartridge bearings. Rare of me to ever use a punch.
Post a pic of your bench lathe.
Park bearing and race install tool is pretty cool.I like that very much.Its the only thing limits most regular bikers because without it becomes pretty hard to install.Sure you can make PVC DIY but its not accurate...
Anyway good for you to have most tools!
Show what you got . Little dreamer :))))
I've never used a park tool truing stand and seen it in perfect alignment and I swear to god they revert to being crooked soon after every time you adjust them
yeah i only use it with one caliper ....
@@ahenryrose the only way you can be garuanteed a dished wheel... Separate dishing gauge and one side of the true stand
Nice rundown, but I'd put cone wrenches in the primary kit. I still use my bike frame as a truing stand - amateur hour, but it works. Canadian Tire vernier. At least I have one
Very cool. We love tools!
May I suggest adding or getting the latest Park Tool disc brake caliper mount facing tool? It would be great if you could start roasting frame builders on how bad their caliper mounts are. They are turning into the next big thing thats out of epic on high end bikes after bottom brackets.
I have a Sieg SC4 lathe too. Good lathe but crazy noisy! Completely understand why you changed the gearset!
A good set of SAE & Metric Tap & Die tools. It's allot cheaper in the long wrong to buy one to then having to replace things like axles with beat-up threads if your going to get any where close to that far into working on bikes, I've been repairing and upgrading since the early 80's.
Nice measuring tools Hambini, thanks for showing them. Have you thought about a DRO for the lathe?
It's normally got a mitutoyo one on it. I removed it for the video.
Great insight to your collection of tech and tools, some great knowledge thanks for sharing interesting stuff. All the best
Among all your basic stuff, I didn't see any bits for routing cables through frames.
Nothing wastes more time without appropriate tools/techniques for this.
I also have a micro camera with usb connection to smart phone for looking inside frames.
Funny how you mentioned how the Allen keys round out when they're cheaper quality. All the park tools Allen keys round off after a long time of use but i blame it on the shyte hardware that comes on the stock bikes. Its mind blowing loosely the Allen wrenches fit on stock parts.
Missed the princesses blanket
Chain whip but no cassette tool? I'd also put some kind of Torx T25 tool, tyre levers (too obvious?) and cable cutters in category 1 and repair stand before derailleur hanger aligment tool. Oh, and you need some kind of screwdriver for most derailleurs... But you should have those anyway.
Shimano use JIS on their cross heads using standard Philips heads will ruin your Shimano derailleurs I'd put a JIS crosshead screw driver in that first cat too.
pierrot867 you’re killing me dude, there is not much torque being delivered to those Phillips heads and you are doing something wrong if you are stripping them out with the “wrong screwdriver.”
Hambini do you do a lot of yardwork? You've got quite the shovel collection.
40 years ago you would have a full or partial Campagnolo tool kit. The micrometers were always a good option. But you could level your seat with the Campy kit.
8:52 "Collected all of this stuffs for many many years."
13:55 definitely an engineer.
great stuff.I absolutely agree with you, great advice, I like to research every tool individually, and get the best one, but some times I just have to get something.
my preferred chain cleaning device is Finish Line Grunge Brush, due to how easy & fast it's to use.
Most tools I got are from park tools, but I needed tools fast they were the easiest to get, but I got some bike specific tools that are not park tool too, like abbey tools cassette removal tool, great.
but I got some old tools I got from my dad, got old Hazet pliers, perfect for wire ends, much better than using all in one tool & clamping wire end with cable cutters inside wire end clamping tool, silly. bad access inconvenient and easy to hurt yourself or impossible in some cases to do.
my experience with park tool torque wrenches is they have quite noticeable play in the head, but better than supermarket cheap tools.
4:43 I sadly had to use this more than most, cus of my horrible 2014 Trek fuel ex, after every long mtb ride I had to use it, hope for replacement frame, bad engineering imo, cus it was drive train abuser, I have only used it once on my other bikes, with new hanger, but the tool worked for me, no major complaints, but there is a more expensive option abbey tools make a nice one, I haven't tried it.
Good info. I've never tried the abbey tools, they are not so easy to get in the UK/Germany so I tend to have to go for park or tacx tools. But I agree, get the best tools for the job. Every one has it's benefits.
the hanger alignment can be done using the cheapest 10mm rear axle, a long piece of metal with a 10mm hole and some nuts. does the job, even if not as precise.
I’d hardly call the park tool precise, it’s really more convenient than anything else.
@@aygwm Given the shoddy welds on that alignement tool (4:42), I can imagine where that lack of precision comes from.
Great video, amazing measuring tools.
I have one question with regards to hanger alignment tool. I think it is poor design and has to be perfectly manufactured in order to achieve good results. The head of the tool rotates freely so any misalignment in head in relation to axis of the tool will be massively amplified. If my math is correct, 0,5 degree of misalignment is going to result in 6mm offset on the rim. In my opinion this is too much, for such a little misalignment in the axis of the tool. Furthermore the head has to be very stiff, so it won´t move in the process of alignment.
I do not own the measuring tools in order to proof my point, but maybe you can do it? (if you want, it would be interesting video :D ). I just have enough of people saying that almost all derailleur hangers are completely off from factory.... Well maybe your park tool Dag is complete rubbish. I think too many people just believe, that those tools are 100% perfect, reliable and aligned from factory... Of course derailleur will work in the some range, that is why it does not have to be perfectly aligned, but i think that tool is doing more damage than good. Maybe eyeballing is more precise than using this tool.
Marian
Just watched this. Very good and interesting video.
The SKF tool is the non plus ultra for any bike mechanic. Keep it up Mr Hambini.
Thankyou
I think a tap and die set should also be included somewhere on this list. Especially a set of taps for where pedals thread into crank arms
That Faro arm is a lick piece of kit, I can now understand why something that you describe as "miles out" is probably 0.5mm. I think I'll stick to the basics with the odd bit of the next level up and get my nerd fix from this channel.
Impressive! I can not even imagine about all that equipment!
Binging on Hambini, love this. Fun.
For the win!
For the win!
I avoid Squirt Lube. It lubes nicely, but tends to form thick plugs that will jam a rear derailleur unless one is religious about cleaning the pulleys.
For a moment there I thought you said, “Tool!” But it was okay, you said “Tools”. Lol
LOL. Freudian slip.
You should’ve pointed out your bike pump has the meter where you can read it. I have 2 pumps with different heads. I use a Lezyne head so I can use a std 60mm stem on a 55mm deep wheel without using valve extensions. I use a std clamp type pump head for fast inflation on shallow climbing wheels.
Keep up the good work. I really like your honest opinion
Yes! more regular Hambini content!
I try my best!
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Me: Hey Hambini, Do you have a 52cm Road bike I could ride?
Hambini: Hang on i'll get my Faro Arm....
....my Fucking Faro arm, actually.
That faro arm was awesome. I want one, guess they cost as much as a small cobot?
How many point measurements did you need for the crank drawing?
mmm... Good question. at a guess about 150.
Brilliant stuff, well impressed.
There I was thinking my crank extractor was pretty tech :D
Wow that faro arm is awesome!
Don’t want to go too off topic but I saw you like the squirt lube, I can’t get on with the stuff, after 40 or so miles my chain sounds dry and raspy, I was told that I hadn’t put enough on but even after multiple applications it was the same, switched back to Muc off dry ceramic lube which seems much quieter, can’t stand a noisy chain!
I've had this problem before and I persevered, eventually I traced it down to the degreaser I was using. I switched to virosol and then the squirt has stuck. From a silence point of view, I would swear by Squirt but I guess everyone is going to have their own view.
Make sure you clean off the Muc off ceramic regularly, it dries like concrete and kills your whole drive train!
Hambini, I see one piece of equipment that would really suit what you do! An XRF gun. Now that LIBS has somewhat taken over when it comes to handheld material identification, maybe you could pick up a used XRF gun for your shop? :-)
Bicycle " professional" mechanics can make measurements with accuracy of a few mm , more often they look for brand info on item and believe it
Nice tools Hambini😊
Would like to know how you got the Faro arm...those cost as much as a car if I'm not mistaken!
Great stuff. For your dropout centering tool, I just used a properly dished rear wheel. How did I dish it? By removing the chain from the derailleur (using a “good frame”, and flipping the wheel and adjusting the spokes until the wheel was centered at the Bottom Bracket. I built quite a few good wheels that way, using brake blocks as a trueing guide. . . Now, the cost of spokes and rim is more than a complete wheel. . . so I no longer bother.
At least, I’ve got all the stuff on the first table, plus some English Threaded bottom bracket thread chasing tools, picked up when a local bike shop went out of business 35 years ago. . .
@RollinRat Yep I started building my own wheels because I lost trust in off the shelf - In near 40yrs of cycling I have had only a couple of spokes break - A wheel takes me hours but is very satisfying to do
8:31 for me the truing stand did not have this issue, but the plastic covers were inaccurate, so one always had play.
Hi Hambini, I saw you on the GCN video. At the end of it you mention common mistakes during installation and I was wondering if how I press bearings in a track bike hub by using previous bearings as bushings is incorrect or not (video is on my channel). If I got you well, I guess not but I'd like to be sure. Thanks a lot
Hi Benjamin, I commented on your video. It looks fine to me. Thanks Hambini
Hambini is a cool human being.
Damn a faro arm in a bike shop! Nice setup
Appreciate the honesty and hands-on presentation. Yet, for someone who care so much about precision and tight tolerances you are sometimes pretty sloppy with your wording. An example is that sand-filled mallet. The sand dampens the blow, so the mallet does not rebound*, not "rebound back". The prefix "re" already means "back", so "rebound back" is redundant, or to be more precise: tautological.
Great advices
Spax screws and fischer plugs ! just to emphasise my respect for your knowledge.
Mighty useful presentation for someone wanting to know what's out there and what's worth having (regardless of level of expertise - bar seasoned experts of course).
Some gratuitous drivel:
0:05: "I'm gonna talk to you about my tools" - no comment
3:47 : "Dead-blow hammer"? I didn't even know these existed. On the "to buy" list. I just gotta have one now. I need something to bash my head with that won't rebound.
4:05: LOL even though all these Facom tools are probably worth much more than the best bike I've ever owned, I'm now convinced I need to invest on a proper set of allen keys.
4:45: "rear derailleur alignment tool" Yet another I didn't know existed! I reckon it's easy to make some contraption to the same effect. I always wondered why all my old bikes have bent/skewed derailleurs! I always thought they were made that way and that I was just too ham-fisted to align them.
5:25 : "this is a press that I've made" I was wondering what the make was and then immediately thinking that this can be made very easily by nearly anyone.
6:42 : " ... a cheap vernier, it usually reads low" So if you're on a budget, get a cheap one and grind the jaws sharp as a knife? It's only 10 quid - i'd say nothing to lose trying if you have a steady hand and a good eye. But how would I know the result is actually more accurate? Hmm....
7:42 : "if you know the right kind of bike shop, you can do that" LOL No comment.
7:58: "I'm not sure the Park tool is as good as it's cut out to be" Crikey! And it is a tool that costs a grand?
15:19: "vibration stick or vibration pen" LOL imagine guys on the shop floor saying "pass me the vibration stick" all the time!
Yet another tool I didn't know existed and now I want it. Make that 3 of them, one for each axis? Hmmm... how much is a cheap one?
@RollinRat Cheers for that. I didn't find a special tool on RJ's channel, only saw him use a rear wheel as a truing indicator. I saw a video on a homemade tool on OZ cycle's channel. TBH I wasn't impressed: rather a lot of trouble with questionable effect. The rear wheel trick seemed quite clever. If you haven't got one though, an adjustable spanner will achieve 80% of the effect.
Bent rear derailleurs annoy me a great deal but nothing annoys me more than bent brake levers, handlebars and front derailleurs, in that order. In fact, I've never managed to perfectly straighten a front derailleur but I can live them being misaligned as long as there's no chain rub.
@RollinRat Cheers for that! This makes much more sense and seems rather handy to have in the toolbox. He also stresses the important points to pay attention to when constructing it.
I don't own a modern bicycle so 11 gear drivetrain considerations are not an issue for me. I still want my bike parts to be properly aligned of course to minimize chain, cogs etc. wear and prolong component longevity.
@RollinRat Thanks for the tip. Personally,, I don't like Sram. My own preferences are Shimano and Campagnolo on racers and Shimano on mountain bikes. I don't own a Cyclocross bicycle but if I did, ideally, I'd want it kitted out with Campagnolo. But for robustness and value for money, it's always Shimano for me.
When 10 speed cassettes came out I thought it was interesting but 11 speed cassettes are crazy. I'm not keen on replacing drivetrains all the time. Frankly, unless you're an athlete, I see no reason why you shouldn't have three rings at the front. It doesn't look as neat as a two disk bike but it is more robust. 3x7=21. 3x8=24!!! Now, how often will that need replacing?
Plus you can lower your lowest gear this way without compromising gear range.
One thing I saw in RJ the bike guy''s channel that I thought was really interesting was a video on an automatic rear shifter. I was amazed to see that it worked. I've never seen one of those before. I'd sure like to try one if I ever came across it.
I have never seen faro Arm before, very interesting. What do you use vibration instrument for? Diagnose if bearings are shot?
Whether it's an expensive Faro Arm or a pink Disney Princess blanket, if it works it works.
that's one cool robot arm (want one) //[+nice language throughout-welcome change:)]
Wonderful video, thank you!
I covet your shop-built centering gauge for your TS 2.2
I know you are a busy guy and maybe wont see this question but as a new subscriber I have been bing watching and learning things I never knew . I was wondering your thoughts on threaded bottom brackets , I was hoping to find a vid you may have done but have not . I see you focus on pressed fit type BB mostly but was wondering your thoughts on the threaded design . I know they are on the low end of the scale I guess but I need your wisdom on the topic ..
A threaded BB forces manufacturers to get the thread interface correctly so they cannot skirt around the issue. It also requires a machining operation to cut the threads so it is by default a time consuming process. With pressfit, they can skip a few steps to make the frame manufacturer faster and therefore it becomes less accurate - i think this is where the problem arises from primarily. Hope that helps Hambini
Thank you very much for the education . Seems odd if I understand you correctly that threaded BB are superior in some ways yet are only used on cheaper bikes for the most part . Seems like there is a lot of funny business in the cycling industry . Love the fact you set them straight . Have a nice day buddy..
You forget the autoperts ball joint splitter for removing your cotter pins 🤣🤦♂️😂😂👍✌️
That Faro arm is pretty nifty. But should it not be mounted on a more stable and flat surface than a piece of chipwood?
Pretty sure that Hambini is my fave RUclips. Knows his shit and funny as fuck.
Watch out, most those torque tools don't have a removable and flippable head, and only torque controllably in one direction (for you Brits: clockwise). Instead of buying two, I'd recommend considering one for “insert tools” in the 5-45 or 4-40 Nm range or thereabouts (Hazet makes those, but so do other manufacturers). Then get a ratchet head or two in your favorite size from Chinesia or Czechgermania - with that low torques on bikes they won't go kaputt right away, or practically never.
hey! how are the 9100 c60 wheels treating you? the 9100 series wheels look very very nice, i'm considering getting one. i feel like it's hard to get a wheel with better precision manufacturing than that wheel
I would say they are fine. no better or worse than the C35's I had. Just a bit heavier and slightly more susceptible to crosswinds.
Space constraints aside, shouldn't your truing stand be the other way around so the tolerance gauge is toward you? Disclaimer: I don't work for any non tooling industries nor do I work in a bike shop.
Loving your vlogs Hambiniwan Do you manufacture your bottom brackets yourself or is lathe just for prototyping?
All made by myself.
5:44 I drop tools a lot so I managed to bend a threaded rod for truing stand, I can still use it, but annoying, only enough for the treads to the knob to come loose, no clue where to get replacement, but maybe need new tool then, unless they would warranty it I don't know. no matter how careful I am I will eventually drop almost all the tools. I also see a lot of the Park tools tools are just rebranded tools with their colors and branding on, I don't see a reason to pay extra, they use Bondhus Allen keys for example
one tool I need now is small socket with high engagement, so far the most recommended is Snap on, but I haven't decided yet, do you have any experience or advice? I see you got Facom, any gripes about it? since you got it you probably like it, I already got several sockets, only need small socket wrench, I haven't looked much into Facom yet.
My facom stuff is quite old... Now they are owned by stanley black and decker and the quality has probably gone down hill. But I have no problems with it. All of my stuff is made in France but the newer stuff is rebranded from worldwide.
The other brands that are good are Gedore and if you are on a budget TENG.
thx, I did not know that. I haven't heard of Gedore, I don't care about budget, I want best tool I can get & buy once.
I see Stanley assortment boxes are popular, but I got SOrtimo T-Boxx which have worked well for me.
I haven't tried any Stanley stuff.
Only Teng I got is a bits adapter.
@@Hambini I went for teng ratchet, bits, perfekt fit in bolts, and between the ratchet head, almost zero play, it looks promising, it the easiest and fastest solution, as there is a shop selling teng in my area. Teng has more accurate size on the bits, problem with parktool is their torque wrenches have alot of play, not as much as the cheap department store garbage, but enough to be very notisable.
@@mtbboy1993 good choice!
@@Hambini one of the the next things to do with my toolbox is to get more tools, but I got most fo the needed tools, and get Kaizen foam, to get everything I got all neatly placed, cus now I got a lot of wasted space.
I would also include threat keys and a spoke tensiometer.
I notice on multiple videos you mention that ZIPP has crap bearings. How do you score or rate DT Swiss bearings particularly on DT 240 hubs and your thoughts on ENVE wheels? Nice videos by the way!
DT makes some killer stuff and it is pricey to follow that
RollinRat I have CK on all my bikes but it’s mainly because they are made in USA and I dig that
Yea but do you have Timmy's Mallet ?
Interested in the Press, been thinking of turning something up for a while now (usually borrow one) I notice some on general sale use bearings inbetween the actual cup inserts, do these make any significant difference when using it?
Thanks
G.
What model faro arm is that? Also what software are you using to scan? Do you need to purchase an expensive license for it? great vid!
You can use Geomagic or directly into solidworks, depends on what you are using it for.
@@Hambini cool, i found some used ones but wow, a bit too expensive for something im not sure how often i would use. thanks for the response, excellent spot on gcntech! hope we see u on there more :D