Nice video. Just a couple of things from my experience. I just did this exact job on my rabbit. IF you can get those 4 bolts of the brake caliper loosened and off, there is no need to remove that control arm. I ended up raising the car a little bit more to get clearance for the breaker bar on those triple square bolts. Those were a pain. Also that cube tool to retract the piston was garbage. None of the sides actually fit the piston well. I had to file down two of the nubs on on side of the cube to make a better contact to the piston. Be careful because the metal is very soft and you risk grinding the nubs down. This step was pretty frustrating. Thanks for the video. It helped me save some cash!
Wow excellent example of how to overly complicate something! On my other rig (break job 06 rabbit I am doing) I can take out one bolt and back off another then just swing caliper away from disk, compress piston r&r pads return caliper grease bolt tighten remove grease return second bolt pump up and done. So glad I saw this video. Now I will set the time for the 600 steps and multi size tools for my car. Now to get a 14mm trisquare bit.
I'm glad you're somebody out there that's doing foreign vehicles just a reminder after you clean out the surface before you put your rotor on but some anti seize or some fluid film so it won't build up rust anymore but thank you for your time
I didn't have to remove the upper control arm . I used 12 inch breaker bar + the original VW lug nut key as an extension. M14 triple square stubby is must for those bracket bolts.
The brake caliper bolts (the ones that attach it to the caliper frame) are a 15 mm collar on the inside, and a 13 mm bolt itself. My Stanley wrenches fit in there just fine. I used a bought a piston tool kit from ECS Tuning that comes with removable plates that you can used on multiple sized brake pistons, so it will work for all different models of VW.
Loosening the wheel lugs would be easier if you did it before you jack the wheel up. Also: the piston would be easier to compress if you remove the cover on master cylinder.
I should have known not to trust your video when you edited out the part on pushing the piston in. I spent a half hour turning the piston with no luck until I watched someone else's video that explains that you have to squeeze the piston with something at the same time that you turn the piston otherwise it doesn't go in.
Nice video. Just a couple of things from my experience. I just did this exact job on my rabbit. IF you can get those 4 bolts of the brake caliper loosened and off, there is no need to remove that control arm. I ended up raising the car a little bit more to get clearance for the breaker bar on those triple square bolts. Those were a pain.
Also that cube tool to retract the piston was garbage. None of the sides actually fit the piston well. I had to file down two of the nubs on on side of the cube to make a better contact to the piston. Be careful because the metal is very soft and you risk grinding the nubs down. This step was pretty frustrating.
Thanks for the video. It helped me save some cash!
I rarely work on VW and they always give me trouble! Thanks for watching!
Wow excellent example of how to overly complicate something!
On my other rig (break job 06 rabbit I am doing) I can take out one bolt and back off another then just swing caliper away from disk, compress piston r&r pads return caliper grease bolt tighten remove grease return second bolt pump up and done.
So glad I saw this video. Now I will set the time for the 600 steps and multi size tools for my car.
Now to get a 14mm trisquare bit.
Yeah taking off the whole caliper to remove the rotor shouldn't be this complicated but that's a VW lol
if you are not doing rotors above is the way to go!
I'm glad you're somebody out there that's doing foreign vehicles just a reminder after you clean out the surface before you put your rotor on but some anti seize or some fluid film so it won't build up rust anymore but thank you for your time
Thanks so much. I neglected it now I have to do this job on the side of the road . Wish me luck!
Make sure you get those 12 point bits!!
I didn't have to remove the upper control arm . I used 12 inch breaker bar + the original VW lug nut key as an extension. M14 triple square stubby is must for those bracket bolts.
Awesome! There's always an easier way! Thanks for the tip 🤘
@@bobaganoosh88 Thanks for the video :)
you can't own a vw and not have a set of stubbies 😅
@@MiltonRoe i work on maybe one a year
dont own one though.
The brake caliper bolts (the ones that attach it to the caliper frame) are a 15 mm collar on the inside, and a 13 mm bolt itself. My Stanley wrenches fit in there just fine. I used a bought a piston tool kit from ECS Tuning that comes with removable plates that you can used on multiple sized brake pistons, so it will work for all different models of VW.
13mm = 1/2inch
I work on 1 VW a year... I'll use my shitty square brake tool lol
if you don't have the special piston tool, a grinder wrench works great.
Freaking great idea!!!
Loosening the wheel lugs would be easier if you did it before you jack the wheel up. Also: the piston would be easier to compress if you remove the cover on master cylinder.
I use an impact so lifting before removing the wheel isn't an issue, and thank you for the tip I'll remember that for next time!
So you don’t have to bleed the brakes?
Not when you're changing pads and rotors. Only if a brake line needs to be removed or a caliper needs to be replaced.
Thanks Brad
What are the triple square bolt sizes that you used for the caliper bolt frame?
14 mm
00:58 why is everyone’s cap having those weird bubbles
probably started corroding on the boat ride over here lol
I was watching this video hopping to see if I could punch my broken wheel sensor in without removing the hub
what did you end up doing?
🙏🏿❤️💪🏿
I should have known not to trust your video when you edited out the part on pushing the piston in. I spent a half hour turning the piston with no luck until I watched someone else's video that explains that you have to squeeze the piston with something at the same time that you turn the piston otherwise it doesn't go in.
At 6:10 I say you have to push it while you're turning it. Quit whining
That's not a T14 I've got to go down to the automotive shop to see what size it is you screwed up there!
It's a 12 point M14 which is what I say in the video TWICE. Next time maybe listen a bit better before trying to correct someone.
14 mm 4 square
lol your stupidity is showing here