Couple things….when I stir I cut a popsicle stick flat on the end so it scrapes the bottom. Otherwise you won’t get total mix.. You can store paint mixed with 4050 but once you add reducer it only keeps a few days at the most
Just so everyone knows Createx no longer recommends 4012 reducer to be used with 4030. There has been gelling issues with that combo. 4011 is the suggested thinner now and is what I personally use. Also they intend to keep 4030 in the lineup but have a new clear now 4050. You can use this in the same way but it's clearer and has UV protection in it. And you can use it as a top coat as well. I have both 4030 and 4050, I still like the 4030 for improved flow when mixed into solid colors personally.
You can never go by percentages. Every airbrush is different, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 needle, gravity feed or suction feed. Depending on the person they may be running 18 to over 30 psi.
My question is for anyone reading this. I bought a bunch of various acrylic bottle and spray can paints from Home Depot called Color Shot. They offer a real nice line of Metallics as well as other colors. I am wondering if this reducer would work on other brands of hobby/craft acrylics. I tried a few with blue windshield cleaning fluid as a thinner but it started gumming up in my airbrush. Anyone have experience with doing this ?
You can usually use other reducers for different paints. They're generally %water, %isopropyl alcohol and %retarder. Same recipe across the board. It is recommended to use whatever paint you're using; to use their reducer though. Just give it a try. Just spray on some scrap surface first.
I use Createx paints for painting fishing lures daily. Just a couple of notes. You should never mix more than you can shoot at a time. Once you add the 4020 and especially the 4012 the paint begins to react and the clock starts ticking on shelf life. Also, if you are using the HP-CS, you can very easily shoot the paint without thinning. I do add the 4020 so that it adheres well to plastics, wood, metal...Just don't want you to lose all that extra paint and have problems down the line from mixing it several days previous. Check out some of the videos from Createx about mixing.
You shot the sealer (in white) on first as a base? And then the reduced pearl over that? Looks good, I’m still pretty new to using the airbrush for my models, have gotten some ok results but would be stoked to have a result like yours with the pearl.
Hey whats up. The process i did on this body was. Clean the resin with water and dish soap do a wet sand with 400grit sanding sponge (by godhand) Then i hit it with white tamiya primer (rattle can). Once dry i hit it with the white auto borne sealer. The final spray was white pearl over the white auto borne sealer. Once all that is dry it's ready for clear coat. It's a little bit of a process but it's fun just take your time don't be afraid to experiment. Hit me up on instagram if you have any questions thanks.
What really hurts me when losing a product line like most of testors is their metalizers . I use metalizer aluminum plate for a primer and brush paint it on engine parts trannys and simulate sheet metal in race cars. I heard of alclad but don't anything about it. I know its pricey.
Авто/Мото
Very cool
Couple things….when I stir I cut a popsicle stick flat on the end so it scrapes the bottom. Otherwise you won’t get total mix..
You can store paint mixed with 4050 but once you add reducer it only keeps a few days at the most
Just so everyone knows Createx no longer recommends 4012 reducer to be used with 4030. There has been gelling issues with that combo. 4011 is the suggested thinner now and is what I personally use. Also they intend to keep 4030 in the lineup but have a new clear now 4050. You can use this in the same way but it's clearer and has UV protection in it. And you can use it as a top coat as well. I have both 4030 and 4050, I still like the 4030 for improved flow when mixed into solid colors personally.
You can never go by percentages. Every airbrush is different, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 needle, gravity feed or suction feed. Depending on the person they may be running 18 to over 30 psi.
Coming back to this video to ask exactly what model of iwata you use?
Awesome man, great video tip
Cool video Edgar. That pearlized silver turned out really nice. I want to try that stuff. Thanks for sharing bro
You’re welcome bro
cool vid sir
great I been playing around with this paint to trying to find something that I can use to thin all my paint instead of buying there reduser
Yo sweet bro
My question is for anyone reading this.
I bought a bunch of various acrylic bottle and spray can paints from Home Depot called Color Shot. They offer a real nice line of Metallics as well as other colors. I am wondering if this reducer would work on other brands of hobby/craft acrylics. I tried a few with blue windshield cleaning fluid as a thinner but it started gumming up in my airbrush. Anyone have experience with doing this ?
You can usually use other reducers for different paints. They're generally %water, %isopropyl alcohol and %retarder. Same recipe across the board. It is recommended to use whatever paint you're using; to use their reducer though. Just give it a try. Just spray on some scrap surface first.
I use Createx paints for painting fishing lures daily. Just a couple of notes. You should never mix more than you can shoot at a time. Once you add the 4020 and especially the 4012 the paint begins to react and the clock starts ticking on shelf life. Also, if you are using the HP-CS, you can very easily shoot the paint without thinning. I do add the 4020 so that it adheres well to plastics, wood, metal...Just don't want you to lose all that extra paint and have problems down the line from mixing it several days previous. Check out some of the videos from Createx about mixing.
Daniel Gunter thank you for the info Daniel this helps a lot I’m loving the product.
You shot the sealer (in white) on first as a base? And then the reduced pearl over that? Looks good, I’m still pretty new to using the airbrush for my models, have gotten some ok results but would be stoked to have a result like yours with the pearl.
Hey whats up. The process i did on this body was. Clean the resin with water and dish soap do a wet sand with 400grit sanding sponge (by godhand) Then i hit it with white tamiya primer (rattle can). Once dry i hit it with the white auto borne sealer. The final spray was white pearl over the white auto borne sealer. Once all that is dry it's ready for clear coat. It's a little bit of a process but it's fun just take your time don't be afraid to experiment. Hit me up on instagram if you have any questions thanks.
Nice job first time shooting this. Did you clear it and how did it work out? My first shot with this wasn’t as successful.
yo! yes i did clear it after using house of kolor show clear. It cured fine. Both those products work fine together.
What really hurts me when losing a product line like most of testors is their metalizers . I use metalizer aluminum plate for a primer and brush paint it on engine parts trannys and simulate sheet metal in race cars. I heard of alclad but don't anything about it. I know its pricey.
It drys really fast. You should apply clear right away.
It’s pronounced create -ex …as in you are about to create something …not : cre-ah-tex . That sounds like an automotive undercoat or something lol
YOU SPELLED PEALIZED WRONG LMFAO FOOL ITS PEARLIZED