Hey everyone! Something that totally slipped my mind when making this video is the process to de-click the lenses. It varies lens to lens, but is generally very straightforward. Here's how to do it: 1. Find a small screwdriver and remove tiny screws on the back of the lens 2. Lift the back cover 3. Gently lift the aperture ring off of the lens and place it next to it in the same position so you can put it back correctly 4. There’s going to be a tiny silver ball somewhere under where the aperture ring was. Get rid of it 5. Put the ring back on, put the cover back on, put the screws back in Lens de-clicked 👌🏻😌
My guy....big props to you.... seriously.... Thats an amazing amount of work and trial and error and for you not only to put it out for everyone to further their arts on the small budgets MOST amateur and hobbiest are on but to also explain it all out in such detail is a true gift. Even if I dont need these.... Thank you.. truly.
You are a genius, a great presenter, and very generous and thorough sharing your knowledge!!!! And really funny as well…the 3D printing blurb changing voices and editing with jump cuts, cracked me up!!
Cool project. I am building two sets. One Minolta and one Soviet KMZ set of different names, including Orion, Jupiter, Industar, Tair and Helios. Just for fun. KMZ was the plant that originally designed and built them, and lenses with KMZ mark had a better quality control and better initial build. Because of that, they are more difficult to find and put tigether. Not sure if I'll be housing them, but it will be fun, nonetheless, to use them as a Soviet constellation set. They used space related names for their lenses in the former USSR, and I do not know anyone who has built the full KMZ set yet with every usable lens name included: 28, 37, 50, 85, 105 and 133mm, so it is kind of exciting! Good luck with your future projects 👍❤️🙏
I love this so much. Fully acknowledges that a lot of this is unnecessary but he just WANTS to do it. Other people would try convince you that a 40 euro custom lens cap is a must have.
Wow. What a great video! The amount of time you put into this and releasing your work for free is the way I would do it and the reason (sadly) we both will not be rich in money but in inspiring other people. I can only repay you with a big like and by having subscibed before the video even ended. I can not believe the top comment is about destroying the lenses. I admire your work and I‘m sure once your video targets the right people the top comment will be „thank you, this is absolutely amazing“. ❤
Thank you! This is awsome! I had printed other versions of the housings, but never consistent with each other, this will give a much more credible look to my lens kit! Fantastic work, I hope there will be more housing in the future! I'll print some of these soon and come back for feedback!
I bought my Helios 44-2 from eBay already moded with gears and de-clicked for under $100 a few years ago. Love it. Best lens purchase I ever made. I see some sellers on eBay are now including anamorphic adapters built in. I may get one of those soon too? Mine lens is still pretty small and but get compliments on it all the time. I do love the look of your printed ones.
Yeah the entire Helios lineup is all the rage right now Now that I think about it, I totally forgot to mention de-clicking in this video 🫠 I did it for all of the lenses and it’s ezpz, but I completely forgot
How do I de-click the lenses? And what measure was the masking tape? Can I send you a gift card for Starbucks? Where are you based in Europe? This work is amazing. Thank you!@@MaxRovensky
@@Marcus_Schuler it varies very slightly between lenses but overall the process is very simple: 1. Find a small screwdriver and remove tiny screws on the back of the lens 2. Lift the back cover 3. Gently lift the aperture ring off of the lens and place it next to it in the same position so you can put it back correctly 4. There’s going to be a tiny silver ball somewhere under where the aperture ring was. Get rid of it 5. Put the ring back on, put the cover back on, put the screws back in Lens declicked 👌🏻😌
1.) I just subscribed - All your effort more than deserves it. 2.) The PRECIOUS guy is great and their rings and caps are worth every penny. I built my Canon K-35 cine prime set with them. 3.) Your 3D-printed housing is the first one that looks really like I would try it myself 4.) Do you consider offering this to your fellow film maker friends !? :-) Thanks so much for sharing this !!!!!
Ah, this is incredible! Great work! Your commitment to this, and willingness to give them away, is truly admirable. I have a full set of Soviet primes (MIR-10A, MIR-1B, Helios 44-2, Jupiter-9, Tair-11A) on EF mount. Would love to see this range expanded, even if you start charging for all the different arrangements! Thank you!
thanks for showing it can always be done diy and how tenacity and diligence pay off. i've been contemplating about the possibilities with a metal 3d printer when it specifically comes to film gear and rigging but for one reason or another those are still further out of reach. i'm sure that for a crowdfunding campaign there could be a small manufacturer overseas that would accept producing a small tirage for enthusiasts and supporters. that's probably how the rehousing places do it anyway. i'll try to get something going.
Thanks! 🙌🏻 You're probably better off finding a 3d print shop in your town if you don't intend to use it a lot Mine mostly collects dust for months until I need to super use it for a few days, and then back to collecting dust 😁
Great work! I love the look. Does it stand up to the torque of a focus motor? What if the focus marks are designed into the print and fill with some high enamel paint? I might just fall down the rabbit hole.
It does! I had concerns about friction fit on the aperture, but tested with DJI RS2 and Tilta Nucleus Nano (the 1st one) - it holds up No issues with the focus gear since that's secured by screws on all builds Re: markings, someone in the comments suggested a dual extruder, which I think is the best choice. I'll look into it whenever I do a Mark II, lots of great suggestions for it so far
These are the best looking 3d printed housing ive seen yet. I've slme of these and the mir 1b 27mm too. Great project. ❤ I've a helios 442 and it has the same front apature set up as the jupiter 9.
Love that kind of humor. Wasting days, weeks or months instead of getting housings from ebay. Some may know, how the prices come together... Money for time
I could download your 3D print files for free and follow this video to build the lenses, but as a engineer wannabe instead I will spend 3 months of my life and way more money trying to design my own system and inevitably failing! Thanks for the video, good fun and love the effort.
@@MaxRovensky that bit in the video made me laugh so hard because I 100% relate. Too often I look back at the hours, weeks, months of effort I've put into something and think "maybe I should have just bought one"
They're certainly less of a headache to acquire :D But also now that smaller companies make cine lenses left and right, the good ol' market competition is doing it's thing I haven't gotten my hands on NiSi Athena yet, but everyone I know who's used them says they're excellent, and they cost cheaper per piece than most Sony lenses
EPIC!!!!!!!! Dude i am going to build these for my RF mount Canon. I am in no position to pay huge prices for non budget cine lenses and definately not paying all that to have someone else do what I can build myself. Great vid brother!! Subbed!
Wow that is seriously impressive!! I've just bought a Helios and an m42 - EF and m42 - Sony adapter. Think it'd be possible to adjust the rear part of the housing to fit both mounts to make it more future proofed?
Very impressive and inspiring work ! I am french and for your information "precisious" means nothing, it's more likely a name they choosed to sound "english" 😂 I have a SLA printer at home and I've been thinking about doing a similar project with my old Canon FD lenses, you motivated me even more !
There is a video form the media devision. They show how complicated propper rehousing is. The lenses are completely taken apart, cleaned, everything needs to be custom designed and everything is perfectly aligned and measured out. You get a new iris.
You are a gentleman and a scholar!! I discovered your video after I bought a 44M. Will the 44M fit with these prints or should I try and return this lens and get a 44M-4?
Yeah, I looked into those as well, but picked M42 for consistency with the ones I already had The design should be pretty easy to adapt to most vintage lenses tbh
Nice work.Hey there is a Helios lens which has its aperture ring in the front.Which can be easily adapted for PL mount.Can you build a body for that Helios -44-2 lens version too
I plan on adapting this design to an m42-EF adapter. That is a lot more portable than an adapter to any contemporary body. It makes more sense to me to selectively mount either an EF-body adapter or an EF-body speed booster to the camera body and potentially mount the camera body inside a RED style box which accommodates the external hardware for a follow focus rig.
Last I've seen an M42-EF adapter, it was like 1-2mm thin, so the rear element would be eliminated completely and the aperture ring will be directly up against the body 🤔 But I might be misremembering, when I bought the Chinon it had *some* adapter on it, but I'm not sure if it was an EF or not Do let me know how it goes!
@@MaxRovensky You are right. i have an m42 to EF adapter on my helios and its just a very thin ring.. I do have it then mounted on a EF-X mount speedbooster. Hopefully this is will fit somehow. Im printer your print right now!
very good and detailed video. I am glad that there are some people out there like you who take time and effort to make something unique. I have also a Helios 44M-4, and might be experiment with your STL however I am using MFT system not Sony... I also have a very good Soviet Mir-24H 35mm f2... do you think it would be hard to make a design for that? It is a Nikon F mount not M42
Depends on that mount's flange distance. In order for the aperture ring to work and not rub against the camera, there has to be some spacing. I.e. on a Canon EF mount which has a 2mm adapter from M42 it wouldn't work For M42 likely possible, but I don't have an adapter on hand to measure it for the alternate cover
@@MaxRovensky thanks the answer. The Nikon F to MFT adapter is pretty similar in terms of size like the m42 to MFT adapter. Also, MFT has very similar flange distance (maybe 1mm difference) as Sony E mount
I need to figure out how to design for my nikkor af lenses. I figured if I got all the same type of lenses they would be more consistent. Only thing that bothers me really is twisting the focus ring with a matte box. It's a snug fit
Would this work with a helios 44-2? I just bought one in basically prestine condition and this looks like a cool way to protect it and also have a sick looking functional housing.
I can probably adapt the design if I get my hands on one, but if I were to need one - I'd probably get the new one (the Russian company that makes them is still around and kicking), which if I recall correctly has a slightly different body design
Love this so much, I have to let a comment. Oh, and the name of the french company a mix of "precision" and the legendary gollum "my precious", precisious😁
The rings from Precisious have an option for 82mm inner diameter and 95mm outer, so you get the best of both worlds The ones I got are 86mm inner but I got them without thinking too much 🫠
Thank you Max for sharing this project. One question: I did not catch exactly, how to combine step-up / step-down rings in case of Helios, you went very briefly over this part in your video. Can you please tell me how to set-up the rings correctly? Thank you very much.
Oh and as I mentioned in the video, at any point in the stack, add a step down ring and then another step up ring (this would have to be from another set, or a solo ring) so that you get extra horizontal space
and you mentioned in the video: "you will need 2 sets of step down rings..." what is the reason to have them? as I understood, all what is needed is set of step-up rings and one step-down ring and one step-up ring. did I miss something?
Is there a reason relatively expensive step up/down rings have to be used? Would it be possible to design things so the last filter mount ring snaps/screws into the 3D Printed housing?
You can use the cheapest rings (I've seen some on Ali that are ~$5/pack), as long as the dimensions somewhat match I am slowly designing a Mark II version of these lenses that addresses a lot of the issues
@@MaxRovensky Thanks for the response! I'm enjoying the video and channel. I love 3D Printing and RUclips/Video production. So 3D printed cine housings for vintage lenses is right up my alley. I appreciate the time and effort you put into the design and files. I'm currently building a single Chinon 55mm. It's in interesting balance of potential cost savings vs going kinda boutique in certain spots. I'll be interested to see the revisions. If you would consider adding threaded inserts or pockets that you drop a small nut into for the screws I think that could add some repeatability and reliability to assembly and disassembly. Perhaps some TPU inserts between the focus/aperture rings and the camera in place of Some of the masking tape? I'm not sure if you've seen the rehousing video from media division but they show a lot of cool stuff that real rehousing companies do. Like for the text they mill it out then fill it with paint out of a syringe. I've seen that work for 3D Prints
I love this! I just have one question! What matte box was the beginning because im looking for a solution for lenses that are too small for matte boxes
I have a Chinon 35 and 135. How could I use what you’ve created for those lenses. I would like these to be my creative set of lens. I love a good diy and this is right up my alley and style of work.
Not familiar with those two, but if you can measure it’s focus ring, middle section and the aperture ring, it might end up being similar enough to something from this set that can fit well on those
I went back and was reminded both of those lenses are broken. The aperture rings don’t work. Plus the front elements move on both lenses. I still have my Helios so I will do that one for sure. Thanks
The measurements of the lenses are 67mm focus ring, 63mm for the aperture ring and 101mm in length for the 135mm lens. 63mm focus ring and 61mm aperture ring for the 35mm lens. Would these be compatible with what you have created?
Yeah, I totally missed it in the video because I declicked them very early on and the video took so long to make I forgot about it I mentioned it under another comment, but the process is fairly straightforward, I'll make a separate comment and pin it
Amazing work! I am completely new to this but am interested to try this on an olympus zuiko. They have a front apature ring, but it doesnt spin when focussing. One question, shouldnt the adapter cover be screwed to the body, instead of just clicking? Seems like if you grab it from behind it might pop out and send your lens tumbling 🤔
It's very low tolerance with the adapter and on the specific adapter I'm using there's a very "grippy" knurling on the back, so it holds very well. One of the prints needed an extra layer of masking tape, but then it held very nicely as well
Hey everyone!
Something that totally slipped my mind when making this video is the process to de-click the lenses.
It varies lens to lens, but is generally very straightforward. Here's how to do it:
1. Find a small screwdriver and remove tiny screws on the back of the lens
2. Lift the back cover
3. Gently lift the aperture ring off of the lens and place it next to it in the same position so you can put it back correctly
4. There’s going to be a tiny silver ball somewhere under where the aperture ring was. Get rid of it
5. Put the ring back on, put the cover back on, put the screws back in
Lens de-clicked 👌🏻😌
Bro. I can tell you put in so much work, and you're giving the files out for free...!!! Damn.
You got my sub out of sheer respect. Good job.
This is the best 3D printed job I’ve seen so far! 👏👏👏
Saying that, $2900 to rehouse a lens is one of the most affordable options for a true rehousing.
Thanks! Means a lot coming from you 🙏🏻
Classic case of “fine I’ll do it myself!” 😂 You’re doing gods work thank you
Finally someone did a very good 3d rehousing job. Great work.
You're an engineering genius and a legend for giving out the files for free, thank you so much
My guy....big props to you.... seriously.... Thats an amazing amount of work and trial and error and for you not only to put it out for everyone to further their arts on the small budgets MOST amateur and hobbiest are on but to also explain it all out in such detail is a true gift. Even if I dont need these.... Thank you.. truly.
Sad times… no Helios 44-2 :( haha great work mate! So much fun having a cool project that you just make for the hell ofnit.
You are a genius, a great presenter, and very generous and thorough sharing your knowledge!!!! And really funny as well…the 3D printing blurb changing voices and editing with jump cuts, cracked me up!!
Thanks! Appreciate it 🙏🏻😌
A Helios 44-2 and a Mir-1B would be such a nice Addition!
The Jupiter 9 made your inner Michael Reeves come out :D Love it!!!
Great project! Much respect.
Cool project. I am building two sets. One Minolta and one Soviet KMZ set of different names, including Orion, Jupiter, Industar, Tair and Helios. Just for fun. KMZ was the plant that originally designed and built them, and lenses with KMZ mark had a better quality control and better initial build. Because of that, they are more difficult to find and put tigether. Not sure if I'll be housing them, but it will be fun, nonetheless, to use them as a Soviet constellation set. They used space related names for their lenses in the former USSR, and I do not know anyone who has built the full KMZ set yet with every usable lens name included: 28, 37, 50, 85, 105 and 133mm, so it is kind of exciting! Good luck with your future projects 👍❤️🙏
I love this so much. Fully acknowledges that a lot of this is unnecessary but he just WANTS to do it. Other people would try convince you that a 40 euro custom lens cap is a must have.
Most of it can be accomplished with a smallrig rubber band, but the rubber band doesn't bring joy 😅
Wow. What a great video! The amount of time you put into this and releasing your work for free is the way I would do it and the reason (sadly) we both will not be rich in money but in inspiring other people. I can only repay you with a big like and by having subscibed before the video even ended. I can not believe the top comment is about destroying the lenses. I admire your work and I‘m sure once your video targets the right people the top comment will be „thank you, this is absolutely amazing“. ❤
This is unhinged. I love it.
The intro to this video DID NOT have to go this hard
Wow, impressive work on the 85mm man, I love that.
Thank you! This is awsome! I had printed other versions of the housings, but never consistent with each other, this will give a much more credible look to my lens kit! Fantastic work, I hope there will be more housing in the future! I'll print some of these soon and come back for feedback!
Looking forward 🙌🏻
Thanks for doing this!!! Sick looking stuff. Will the 44-4 kit work on a 44-2 by any chance?
Please!! Im looking for a 44-2 kit for years. Since the cinehousing kit is like 400 Bucks
This is awesome! I would actually sand it down with 2000 grit sand paper before painting the lens to make it more smoother.
I tried it very early on, PLA didn't like sanding very much, but maybe I had chonkier sandpaper, I don't remember anymore 🤷🏻♂️
I was thinking if someone already did this then this mysteriously appeared on my feed. Definitely doing this.
Hats off! Genius Project and execution! Fantastically documented :)
Thank you 🙌🏻
Insane. Thanks for showing how much work this is so I never get the hair brained idea that I can do it myself
"They were pretty expensive and absolutely unnecessary so I had to get them" - I feel you😂
I bought my Helios 44-2 from eBay already moded with gears and de-clicked for under $100 a few years ago. Love it. Best lens purchase I ever made. I see some sellers on eBay are now including anamorphic adapters built in. I may get one of those soon too? Mine lens is still pretty small and but get compliments on it all the time. I do love the look of your printed ones.
Yeah the entire Helios lineup is all the rage right now
Now that I think about it, I totally forgot to mention de-clicking in this video 🫠
I did it for all of the lenses and it’s ezpz, but I completely forgot
@@MaxRovensky Your project looks awesome.
How do I de-click the lenses? And what measure was the masking tape? Can I send you a gift card for Starbucks? Where are you based in Europe? This work is amazing. Thank you!@@MaxRovensky
@@Marcus_Schuler it varies very slightly between lenses but overall the process is very simple:
1. Find a small screwdriver and remove tiny screws on the back of the lens
2. Lift the back cover
3. Gently lift the aperture ring off of the lens and place it next to it in the same position so you can put it back correctly
4. There’s going to be a tiny silver ball somewhere under where the aperture ring was. Get rid of it
5. Put the ring back on, put the cover back on, put the screws back in
Lens declicked 👌🏻😌
1.) I just subscribed - All your effort more than deserves it. 2.) The PRECIOUS guy is great and their rings and caps are worth every penny. I built my Canon K-35 cine prime set with them. 3.) Your 3D-printed housing is the first one that looks really like I would try it myself 4.) Do you consider offering this to your fellow film maker friends !? :-) Thanks so much for sharing this !!!!!
The STLs are in the description if you want to make your own 🙂🙌🏻
@@MaxRovensky tempting. I have four Canon fd lenses from the 70s.... Those would look magic like that
Only you would go that hard on markings friend! keen for our next shoot to see how the budget triplers perform
Extreme over-engineering is what I'm all about 😁
They’ll perform like regular lenses because this is just an aesthetic armour, rather than a rehousing.
your passion and approach to business are simply a delight!
So cool! Kudos for designing something so functional.
Ah, this is incredible! Great work! Your commitment to this, and willingness to give them away, is truly admirable. I have a full set of Soviet primes (MIR-10A, MIR-1B, Helios 44-2, Jupiter-9, Tair-11A) on EF mount. Would love to see this range expanded, even if you start charging for all the different arrangements! Thank you!
(Or at the very least, have a donation link so people can buy you a drink!)
I agree and need this to happen as well lol
thanks for showing it can always be done diy and how tenacity and diligence pay off. i've been contemplating about the possibilities with a metal 3d printer when it specifically comes to film gear and rigging but for one reason or another those are still further out of reach. i'm sure that for a crowdfunding campaign there could be a small manufacturer overseas that would accept producing a small tirage for enthusiasts and supporters. that's probably how the rehousing places do it anyway. i'll try to get something going.
I'll probably never make these...but you deserve the sub for spitting so much knowledge.
Fantastic video! And genuinly an outstanding job on this build. Now debating on buying a 3d printer just for this project.
Thanks! 🙌🏻
You're probably better off finding a 3d print shop in your town if you don't intend to use it a lot
Mine mostly collects dust for months until I need to super use it for a few days, and then back to collecting dust 😁
Great work! I love the look. Does it stand up to the torque of a focus motor? What if the focus marks are designed into the print and fill with some high enamel paint? I might just fall down the rabbit hole.
It does! I had concerns about friction fit on the aperture, but tested with DJI RS2 and Tilta Nucleus Nano (the 1st one) - it holds up
No issues with the focus gear since that's secured by screws on all builds
Re: markings, someone in the comments suggested a dual extruder, which I think is the best choice. I'll look into it whenever I do a Mark II, lots of great suggestions for it so far
These are the best looking 3d printed housing ive seen yet. I've slme of these and the mir 1b 27mm too. Great project. ❤
I've a helios 442 and it has the same front apature set up as the jupiter 9.
My Helios 44-2 also has aperture ring in the front and man its a skinny one too! Engineering nightmare!
Brilliant humour and clever designs. Well done. I really enjoyed your video.
Love that kind of humor. Wasting days, weeks or months instead of getting housings from ebay. Some may know, how the prices come together... Money for time
Amazing video! Really creative approach to these prices. One question tho. Do you intend to make more casings for vintage lenses?
I could download your 3D print files for free and follow this video to build the lenses, but as a engineer wannabe instead I will spend 3 months of my life and way more money trying to design my own system and inevitably failing!
Thanks for the video, good fun and love the effort.
That is the way 😁
@@MaxRovensky that bit in the video made me laugh so hard because I 100% relate. Too often I look back at the hours, weeks, months of effort I've put into something and think "maybe I should have just bought one"
honestly after seeing this video, the actual cine lenses now appear so much more affordable
They're certainly less of a headache to acquire :D
But also now that smaller companies make cine lenses left and right, the good ol' market competition is doing it's thing
I haven't gotten my hands on NiSi Athena yet, but everyone I know who's used them says they're excellent, and they cost cheaper per piece than most Sony lenses
EPIC!!!!!!!! Dude i am going to build these for my RF mount Canon. I am in no position to pay huge prices for non budget cine lenses and definately not paying all that to have someone else do what I can build myself. Great vid brother!! Subbed!
Cine lenses or not....this is so cool 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 respect!
You will become prominent for this work soon brother, mark my words. THAT IS INSANEEEE!!!
this is way way smart bro! thank you for providing the 3d ptining assets for people, sharing is caring
Wow that is seriously impressive!! I've just bought a Helios and an m42 - EF and m42 - Sony adapter. Think it'd be possible to adjust the rear part of the housing to fit both mounts to make it more future proofed?
Hats off to you. Do you perhaps have one for the sigma 18-35mm 1.8 ?
Dude your are god. Incredible craftmanship, amazing video edit and you are giving this information for free. You deserve millions!! Subbed 🙌🙌
dude, you made my day!! well done and thanks for sharing
Very impressive and inspiring work ! I am french and for your information "precisious" means nothing, it's more likely a name they choosed to sound "english" 😂
I have a SLA printer at home and I've been thinking about doing a similar project with my old Canon FD lenses, you motivated me even more !
Haha good to know! 🇫🇷
There is a video form the media devision. They show how complicated propper rehousing is. The lenses are completely taken apart, cleaned, everything needs to be custom designed and everything is perfectly aligned and measured out. You get a new iris.
amazing work with the clever passthrough design!
this is great, idk how the hell you managed to do that jupiter with the front aperture thats awesome
Instead of using a rubber ring you chose suffering. I like it.
You are a gentleman and a scholar!! I discovered your video after I bought a 44M. Will the 44M fit with these prints or should I try and return this lens and get a 44M-4?
I honestly don't know, some versions fit, some don't, Soviets weren't super consistent when making these things 😅
@@MaxRovensky Haha copy that!
I feel like I now need to get a 3D printer and start messing with vintage lenses with my M6ii.
Do it 👀
Where’s you I’ll be find 3d projects for printing? Or you can do it? Thank you 🙏🏽
Canon FD primes are very common and popular as well have you thought about doing those?
Yeah, I looked into those as well, but picked M42 for consistency with the ones I already had
The design should be pretty easy to adapt to most vintage lenses tbh
Nice work.Hey there is a Helios lens which has its aperture ring in the front.Which can be easily adapted for PL mount.Can you build a body for that Helios -44-2 lens version too
If I get one at some point - I definitely will 👌🏻😌
@@MaxRovensky ok,once I download your STL I will try designing one. You must also upload Step files
I'll def do the marking now that you said I should not
Amazing video !
I plan on adapting this design to an m42-EF adapter. That is a lot more portable than an adapter to any contemporary body. It makes more sense to me to selectively mount either an EF-body adapter or an EF-body speed booster to the camera body and potentially mount the camera body inside a RED style box which accommodates the external hardware for a follow focus rig.
Last I've seen an M42-EF adapter, it was like 1-2mm thin, so the rear element would be eliminated completely and the aperture ring will be directly up against the body 🤔
But I might be misremembering, when I bought the Chinon it had *some* adapter on it, but I'm not sure if it was an EF or not
Do let me know how it goes!
@@MaxRovensky You are right. i have an m42 to EF adapter on my helios and its just a very thin ring.. I do have it then mounted on a EF-X mount speedbooster. Hopefully this is will fit somehow. Im printer your print right now!
I totally subbed just because. You put a lot of work into this and it is major appreciated. Thanks man.
WHAT THE HELL!!!! your production quality is something else bro!! great story telling too!. subbed!!!
Appreciate it! 🙌🏻 😌
This channel so underrated you got my sub
Man, you have a business here. Just create a website for that service at reasonable price for more lenses and wow!
very good and detailed video. I am glad that there are some people out there like you who take time and effort to make something unique. I have also a Helios 44M-4, and might be experiment with your STL however I am using MFT system not Sony... I also have a very good Soviet Mir-24H 35mm f2... do you think it would be hard to make a design for that? It is a Nikon F mount not M42
Depends on that mount's flange distance. In order for the aperture ring to work and not rub against the camera, there has to be some spacing. I.e. on a Canon EF mount which has a 2mm adapter from M42 it wouldn't work
For M42 likely possible, but I don't have an adapter on hand to measure it for the alternate cover
@@MaxRovensky thanks the answer. The Nikon F to MFT adapter is pretty similar in terms of size like the m42 to MFT adapter. Also, MFT has very similar flange distance (maybe 1mm difference) as Sony E mount
I would love one for the MIR 10-A!!! Appreciate all the work and making all the STL's FREE?!!?!? Thank you
dude you deserve more subscribers.
unique work.
Thanks! 😌🙏🏻
These are awesome mate! Nicely done!
Thank you 🙏🏻😌
I need to figure out how to design for my nikkor af lenses. I figured if I got all the same type of lenses they would be more consistent. Only thing that bothers me really is twisting the focus ring with a matte box. It's a snug fit
Wow.. This is amazing. So all of the lenses have a stationary front barrel? (Meaning, you could easily attach a clip-on matte box?)
The front barrel still moves when focusing, I couldn't solve that (maybe in Mark II 🤔), but I've been using my Tilta Mirage with these with no issues
Would this work with a helios 44-2? I just bought one in basically prestine condition and this looks like a cool way to protect it and also have a sick looking functional housing.
I can probably adapt the design if I get my hands on one, but if I were to need one - I'd probably get the new one (the Russian company that makes them is still around and kicking), which if I recall correctly has a slightly different body design
Would the stl work with the Helios 44-2? I’m not sure what the difference is between the 44-2 and the 44-4
Subbed! Too much value to pass up this creator. Thank you!!
Love this so much, I have to let a comment.
Oh, and the name of the french company a mix of "precision" and the legendary gollum "my precious", precisious😁
Great project, beautifully executed!
STL’s downloaded will get to it. Thanks for the vid, very cool idea
Yay, you finally did it!
Congrats!
Hey looks sooo good! Is there a way I can still use my 82mm ND Filter?
The rings from Precisious have an option for 82mm inner diameter and 95mm outer, so you get the best of both worlds
The ones I got are 86mm inner but I got them without thinking too much 🫠
in love with mod
Probably one of the best videos i`ve ever seen. Congrats, i m going to suscribe and test the helios one :D
Thank you Max for sharing this project. One question: I did not catch exactly, how to combine step-up / step-down rings in case of Helios, you went very briefly over this part in your video. Can you please tell me how to set-up the rings correctly? Thank you very much.
If you're using the specific set I linked - it's just going from the lowest one that fits all the way up to 82mm in that set
Oh and as I mentioned in the video, at any point in the stack, add a step down ring and then another step up ring (this would have to be from another set, or a solo ring) so that you get extra horizontal space
@@MaxRovensky Thanks, I am using the same set. So - I will add only one step-down ring and back step-up ring to the original diameter.
and you mentioned in the video: "you will need 2 sets of step down rings..." what is the reason to have them? as I understood, all what is needed is set of step-up rings and one step-down ring and one step-up ring. did I miss something?
@@hantabal yeah that's right, I just got them in a set just in case
Is there a reason relatively expensive step up/down rings have to be used? Would it be possible to design things so the last filter mount ring snaps/screws into the 3D Printed housing?
You can use the cheapest rings (I've seen some on Ali that are ~$5/pack), as long as the dimensions somewhat match
I am slowly designing a Mark II version of these lenses that addresses a lot of the issues
@@MaxRovensky Thanks for the response! I'm enjoying the video and channel. I love 3D Printing and RUclips/Video production.
So 3D printed cine housings for vintage lenses is right up my alley.
I appreciate the time and effort you put into the design and files. I'm currently building a single Chinon 55mm.
It's in interesting balance of potential cost savings vs going kinda boutique in certain spots.
I'll be interested to see the revisions. If you would consider adding threaded inserts or pockets that you drop a small nut into for the screws I think that could add some repeatability and reliability to assembly and disassembly.
Perhaps some TPU inserts between the focus/aperture rings and the camera in place of Some of the masking tape?
I'm not sure if you've seen the rehousing video from media division but they show a lot of cool stuff that real rehousing companies do. Like for the text they mill it out then fill it with paint out of a syringe. I've seen that work for 3D Prints
Can i use this design with a helios 44-2 ef? Would it fit in?
Love this concept.
Instant sub! Have you thought about adding some vintage wide angles?
Yes, but Mir-20 is hard to find and Zeiss Jena 20mm is expensive :D
I love this! I just have one question! What matte box was the beginning because im looking for a solution for lenses that are too small for matte boxes
Tilta Mirage
It comes with a few step-up rings that go up to 95mm. Also can be mounted on 15mm rails
@@MaxRovensky thanks! I can't find any info on the rails setup but I'll keep looking!
@@shwnmcd it comes with a 15mm mount adapter in the box
I have a Chinon 35 and 135. How could I use what you’ve created for those lenses. I would like these to be my creative set of lens. I love a good diy and this is right up my alley and style of work.
Not familiar with those two, but if you can measure it’s focus ring, middle section and the aperture ring, it might end up being similar enough to something from this set that can fit well on those
I went back and was reminded both of those lenses are broken. The aperture rings don’t work. Plus the front elements move on both lenses. I still have my Helios so I will do that one for sure. Thanks
The measurements of the lenses are 67mm focus ring, 63mm for the aperture ring and 101mm in length for the 135mm lens. 63mm focus ring and 61mm aperture ring for the 35mm lens. Would these be compatible with what you have created?
This is so freaking cool, thanks man!
Inspiring! Your my type of people!
Can you list the names exact step up rings you used? And mms
maybe i missed it, but did you have to "declick" the vintage lens in your selection first so they can focus smoothly?
Yeah, I totally missed it in the video because I declicked them very early on and the video took so long to make I forgot about it
I mentioned it under another comment, but the process is fairly straightforward, I'll make a separate comment and pin it
Awesome thanks for the info, and providing this tutorial @MaxRovensky
Amazing work! I am completely new to this but am interested to try this on an olympus zuiko. They have a front apature ring, but it doesnt spin when focussing. One question, shouldnt the adapter cover be screwed to the body, instead of just clicking? Seems like if you grab it from behind it might pop out and send your lens tumbling 🤔
It's very low tolerance with the adapter and on the specific adapter I'm using there's a very "grippy" knurling on the back, so it holds very well. One of the prints needed an extra layer of masking tape, but then it held very nicely as well
Max, can you clean a vintage 10mm to 100mm ZEIS lens that also needs a focus adjustment?
Nice job. They look great. Would love one or two of these for my lenses. You going to sell any?? You should….
The STL files are free to download if you want to make your own 🙂
You are fraking dope! It is really a fun project!
Hot damn! Love this, definitely will be following.
You could probably send your designs to a CNC company to have your designs manufactured in aluminum.
I actually considered it but it felt like extreme overkill 😅
@@MaxRovenskyfor a DIY yeah but could be neat to have for a set that can take more production abuse
Great work!!
Video was entertaining, time to search the internet for lens.
what printer would you recommend? or lets say the important specification of a printer to look for to be able to design such objects?
I’m using a Creality Ender 3 v3 KE
Anything a tier above the “absolute cheapest you can find” should work tbh, I haven’t had issues with mine