The Most Effective Way to Sharpen Images
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- By far the most effective way to sharpen images, certainly that I have found is within Adobe Photoshop and specifically, by using the high pass filter. Whilst I agree you can sharpen images in Lightroom, the level of control is not as effective as it is in Photoshop. And also, with Lightroom, there's always the temptation to sharpen prior to knowing what the output of the image will be. In this video I show an example of sharpening for a specific output and include how to selectively sharpen a specific area, unlike Lightroom, which sharpens globally.
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Please note that this video is just to show how I sharpen my images, which get a lot of positive comments on sharpness. With that in mind, I decided to share my technique but I also appreciate that there are many different and more complex ways of doing this. This works for me and I like to keep things simple.
You can stop watching sharpening videos after this, no doubt this is the best and easiest method out there. Thanks for sharing!
Nice video. Simple to follow. I have use high pass for a long time. We need a day out when uour feeling OK your not far from me.
Thanks Simon, great video as always and I value your time to produce these videos. One tip I’ve been given is to apply a black and white conversion to the masking layer and fine tune the tonal ranges through the colour sliders to create more defined contrasts for the high pass filter. Give it a go and let us know what you think.
I've yet to try this Martin, thanks for the tip
Great video. I have used Photoshop for years and have always sharpened photos globally. Love your technique. Also this would give better contrast between the sharpened image and the leaves.
I'm pleased it''s been useful, thank you for letting me know.
Hi Simon firstly hope your feeling better after your operation and many thanks for the heads up on this Sharpening flow.👍
Thanks Paul 👍
Thanks so much for the tutorial. The print worked out beautifully and now I know why! I only just found a frame shop. It took a while to select the frame, glass, and mattes, but I believe it will do your print justice. I will send you a photo of the finished, framed print on my office wall.
Hi Mary, good to hear from you. I will look forward to seeing the finished product when it's done.
I had my op on the 22nd Feb. Like you I am stuck indoors, rather sore and bruised from 4 incisions for Laparoscopic Cholecystectomy. Cannot lift anything heavy for 2 weeks slowly moving about and not allowed to drive for 48 hours. Its nice to get home though. It takes a lot longer for the healing process as we get older Simon. Thanks for the sharpening video still would like a video on how you do those frames you have around your photos. Take care be safe.
Hope you are recovering Bob and you saw my response video for you on digital mounting.
Subtle and clear technique… beautiful photo, Simon, Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Looking forward to this. Sharpening my wildlife images rarely seems a problem, but I find sharpening landscape images a real challenge.. Either too much, or not enough!
That's interesting Paul. I never really used to think or worry about sharpening when I did wildlife. It seems more critical in landscape photography for some reason.
Thanks Simon - seems like a really useful approach to sharpening. You make a great teacher.
Many thanks Jan. It's good to do these at present until I can get out again.
Thank you Simon, for another great video. I started sharpening using this process for the last year. Haven't looked back.
it really works well doesn't it.
I use this method alot simon, you explained it really well. It's a great woodland image, enjoyed watching 👍
Cheers Chris. Not my comfort zone this so I appreciate the feedback.
Excellent tip for sharpening Simon. Hope the recuperation is going well! All the best!
Thanks Anthony 👍
Glad to see , your recovering, well, Simon. Wow, what a cool tool. I didn't know that existed . There is just too many tools, one gets overwhelmed . I'll start using it, I like that technique . Thank you. KB.
You are welcome Ken.
That’s great advice! I probably over sharpen my images. Thanks Simon. Hope you’re feeling better!
My pleasure Graham. Hope this helped you prevent that in the future.
Excellent video again Commander. Thank you for your efforts and take good care of yourself.
Cheers Jorge
Hi Simon I found that very useful and easy to follow. I generally don't do any sharpening on my Fuji images but will definitely have a go using your method. I hope the recovery post-op is going well. I'm sure you're desperate to get out shooting again especially as the spring flowers are now appearing
Cheers Paul. I'm sure you will have seen me out and about by now. Doing good!
Thank you Simon for sharing this video very well explained and useful to know
Glad it was helpful John
Thanks Simon. I’ve really struggled with this method and your well explained and controlled explanation has been most helpful. Wishing you a full and speedy recovery.
Glad it helped Ian and thank you.
Thanks for sharing! I’ll try it for sure.
Really like the control this approach affords you when it comes to sharpening. Thanks for sharing, will be adding it to my arsenal for sure. Beautiful image you've worked on too, love it 😍. Hope you are well
Glad it was helpful! I'm great thanks 👍
Hi Simon, great video as usual, even though you're not yet out and about. Good to see you're taking it steady this time. I can well imagine your impatience... fingers crossed you get back to full form before all the excitement of spring comes to the woods and meadows. Here in the Italian mountains we're still at the hazel catkins and snowdrop stage, so there's a long way to go. Take care :-).
Thanks Sarah for your good wishes and comment. Spring has certainly sprung now hasn't it.
Great job as per buddy, very easy to follow! Hope your well bud
Cheers Tom, I’m good ta 👍
Excellent tutorial glad you doing some more editing videos very interesting indeed never use the high pass filter going to give it a go thanks for sharing hope you’re out and about again soon all the best Andy
Glad it was helpful Andy, cheers.
Great video Simon, this is exactly the method I have used for years. Very easy to do and really effective.
Enjoyed your video and process of how you go about sharpening photos. I noticed when you resize your image you’ve changed the dimensions with “resample” selected, which throws away pixels from your original image. Instead if you turn off resample and let the PPI goes where it wants to go, you’re not throwing away (or in the case of upsizing - adding pixels).
Thank you. This was a film editing mistake, but well spotted.
Thank you. That was concise and clear. Cheers Simon
Thanks again John
Thank you - very straightforward and effective.
You're welcome!
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this great video.
I hope you will be well enough to go out again very soon.
Thanks Hans
Great info, as usual. I know you don’t like to do a lot of post, and you’ve already done one video of start to finish in post, but would you consider doing another one for an image that took a bit more work than usual? I really like your subtle editing style, and seeing how you go about it is really helpful.
I'll see how these videos perform Elijah. I find them really difficult to do as it's not really my thing. I'm much more comfortable filming the photography than I am filming the editing as I have a tendency to bumble my way through.
Thank you! Very helpful!
Excellent! Thank you
You are welcome!
Thanks Simon. Can you explain what the soft light setting actually does in sharpening and why you use it?
It increases the contrast in the edges, thus making the edges appear sharper. I use it because it seems to do a better job than my older methods of sharpening. Hard light is a stronger version of soft light.
Hey Simon, Always nice to see your vids buddy. Hope the recovery is going well. Quick question - Why would you convert the image to 8 bit, and wondering of you have a trick for overcoming posterisation. I know my hard drives hate my big 16 bit files! LOL Speak soon buddy and keep getting well! Ewan
Cheers Ewan, it was related specifically for this image to show in here exactly as i did it. Does your guy print 16bit.
@@SimonBoothPhotography - ah. I get it. Yes he prints in full 16bit form TIFF format, nothing less. The negative space that i sometimes print can or would be problematic with 8bit format, which creates banding. An issue for prints with a fairly high price point. File sizes are problematic though at sometimes... 2GB each! LOL
Beautiful image Simon. Do you visibly lose image quality when you print an 8 bit color vs. 16 bit?
I believe you do, although some say not. I notice the 8 vs 16 bit difference most at the processing stage.
@@SimonBoothPhotography I believe I heard you say you were converting the image to 8 bit for printing, that's why I asked.
@@steveh1273 It's good timing your question Steve because I watched a video just today by Sean Bagshaw who puts a very convincing argument for there not being any loss of quality by converting to 8bit once the file is finished and ready for it's intended output. Converting to 8bit is something that I've been doing for a while but since this video was made, I was told on good authority that we should save and print in 16bit. I'm going to challenge that now and see what comes back.
That's a lovely scene, Simon. I'm bookmarking this video and will try the process on one of my files in a few days. A question come to mind I wanted to be sure I understood:: do you preserve a master file you've worked on and "finished," perhaps as a mid-sized image that isn't sharpened at all, and then create a duplicate file which you then resize to fill a purchase order or for a display print for an exhibition, and then sharpen that one? Thanks.
Hi Larry, yes I preserve a Master TIFF file but unlike the video I save this at 16bit and unsharpened. I keep this as a full size image as it was extracted from the RAW. Apart from a back up, I don't keep any others sizes. All orders or web uses etc come from this master.
I like the idea of using a layer mask to sharpen parts of your image. I also wait to sharpen an image until I know what the final image size is going to be. Do you know what the difference is between the "Unsharp Mask" filter and the "High Pass" filter?
Unsharp mask gives more control but I find it more difficult to get right. The high pass filter has only one variable, which if my memory serves me right is radius.
Nigel Danson took a photo of this same location!
Recently? I don’t watch him that often.
@@SimonBoothPhotography maybe last year? I just think it’s crazy how many of you walk the same paths out in the UK!
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the video. I noticed that you close each window on the right in Develop Mode when you've finished using it e.g. Basic, Tone Curve etc. Were you aware that if you hover over the header you're in there is an option to turn on "Solo Mode". Thus when moving to the next process LR automatically shuts the previous one for you.
No I didn’t, thank you 🙏
Thanks Simon . I use High Pass quite a lot bit I have found with some images as I flatten it knocks back the shaprpness ? But no idea why.
In the past I have had the same issue Alwyn and even on occasions sharpened them again. I had no idea why either. It doesn't happen any more but I do wonder if it's anything to do with screen resolution rather than it not actually being something that isn't working. Thinking about it, It's never been a problem since I got a better monitor. Perhaps do some comparisons?
@@SimonBoothPhotography Thanks Simon and I'll certainly bare it in mind. Keep up the videos I really enjoy them and has helped me a lot when I get out and about. Cheers!
can anyone recommend a course/tutorial where one can learn the basics of photoshop. Steve Perry has an excellent Lightroom course for the library module which I wish id found years ago, something similar to that would be great. Sorry Simon but I don't even know what a layer is so this got too technical too quickly for me. please don't go straining too quickly mate I really hope this heals better than last time.
I feel your pain Peter. I have been using Photoshop for years and I still struggle with the huge variety of ways of doing a single thing. It's probably why you only find videos like mine that show you a single part of a process without much deviation to explain the other parts of which the likes of me take for granted. I would perhaps get yourself a copy of Photoshop for Dummies (I hate that title ) and dib in and out as you need until you find your feet. I don't spend lots of time at the PC and don't profess to be an expert, but I have a series of steps that work really well for me, which is what I tried to share here. Thanks for you good wishes too Peter
Hi, Simon could you tell us what other edits you did to this image,thanks
Not much Neil, The basic adjustments were black and white point set, two radial filters along the path to emphasise the light falling at that point and a touch of orton effect.
Simon could you explain why you flatten the image and change to 8 bit. I’m a Photoshop novice 😊
Hi Jeff
You don’t have to do either but it reduces the file size. It’s important to work on 16bit files over 8bit because the files have more colours and offers better editing flexibility. 16bit is not really necessary at the printing stage or for social media use.
Double 👍👍
Thanks. So you are not sharpen in the RAW converter? I would recommend to convert the high pass layer to greyscale. Second I would reduce the flow below 100% during masking for better transitions.
No I don't. Thanks for your input as well.
@@SimonBoothPhotography I have the same question regarding the file import process and settings. I assume you use Lightroom for importing. Without giving away all your secrets, what were your sharpening settings during this import? Adobe default is... Amount = 40, Radius = 1.0, Detail = 25, and Masking = 0.
BTW, you're an awesome photographer and tutor. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences with us.
@@jimowens8105 thanks for the kind words Jim. When I export the file out of Lightroom, the sharpening settings in Lightroom are all set to zero. I don’t allow any sharpening at all at that stage. There are people who print through the Lightroom interface who may use Lightroom to sharpen, but I would rather do it in Photoshop and print from there.
@@jimowens8105 I think the defaults you refer to are those given in the standard sharpening option in Photoshop, rather than the High Pass which I demonstrate?
@@SimonBoothPhotography Actually, those are the default settings for importing into Lightroom. The question is do you set sharpening to zero when importing the file into Lightroom in the first place?
Thanks to RUclips compression, I see no difference.
I suspect it’s better tried than viewed.
Do you ever use the sharpening tool within Lightroom whilst holding down the ALT and dragging the mask slider? Controlling the masking like this allows you to isolate the 'crisper' areas of the image so that sharpening is only applied there.
No because it still largely decided where it applies it and it’s globally applied for the most part. In the case of my image, I only wanted the near distance objects sharpening. This created a 3D feel to the image because of the difference front to back.
@@SimonBoothPhotography I totally get that, but in my experience, if you drag the mask out quite a long way to the right (whilst holding down ALT), it generally isolates the 'already sharp' elements anyway, and leaves slightly softer objects (like clouds, or in your case the background leaves) untouched. Of course, your method is going to be very much more specific and tuned to exactly what you want, and for that reason, it will always be superior, but the ALT + masking option can be very quick and pretty well controlled. Your viewers might like to give it a try too.
@@PhutureproofUK Absolutely Richard, I couldn’t agree more.