My Land Cruiser Is A NIGHTMARE To Drive And I'm Fixing It!!
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Today I'm fixing the completely unpredictable driving characteristics of my Land Cruiser 80 Series by welding on suspension brackets that will fix the panhard bar angle and the radium arm mounting location. When I lifted this truck 3.5" it threw off the suspension geometry and these brackets should restore the geometry back to a reasonable point. Additionally, we work on getting the 38 inch tires to fit!!
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Parts/Tools Used In This Video:
Strip Discs: amzn.to/45nME6f
Welder: Harbor Freight Titanium 170
Brackets: @eimkeith brand RAM and PCK mounts
Table Saw Idea: @amcustomfab
#rmgarage #toyota #landcruiser #4wd #4x4 #fzj80 #fj80 #overland
Takeaway from the video………just leave the truck alone and enjoy it. Capable right out of the box so to speak.
Your entire 80 build series has been 10/10 content from the start, loving the content and information!!!
I'm going through a similar build and I've used your videos as reference many times
Thank you!
Casey was laying down more dimes :) He was mostly not just running a straight bead but was massaging the path and tracing a "C" back and forth. That's the way I do it too.
Thanks for making high quality videos for 80s!
Nice build, I took a mig welding class from our local welding supply shop, 1 day course and it was great, bought a bucket of scrap metal and started running beads
Your videos have become the go to reference on 80 series mechanicals and modifications. I am just loving this Sunday morning! Well done!
Thank you!!
Damn ,I'm here complaining about my ABS light.... Following
I’m considering deleting my ABS but it doesn’t give me an issues…mainly to prevent it from giving me issues but I think I’m paranoid.
Great build. Just some thoughts of things I encountered when I lifted my FJ80. I can tell you that the improvement was from the caster correction drop brackets for the front radius arms. Toyota FSM states that 2.0 degrees is the minimum (4.0 degrees is on the higher end though most go for 5-6 degrees when going 3 link) and bone stock is at 3.0 degrees. For me; Slinky 3in lift, Spidertrax wheel spacers (running the FJC 17in trail team wheels), 35in mud terrains, Slee caster correction plates, new front/rear shaft u-joints, adjustable front panhard bar, Delta VS rear panhard bracket, all new Toyota bushings, extended rear LCA, adjustable rear UCA, all new Toyota tie-rods, Dobinson pass-through steering damper, rebuilt the knuckles/wheel bearings, Whiteline rear sway bar, Land Cuiser Phil rear sway bar links, and an alignment set to zero toe-in redeemed that I am at 2.0 degrees of caster. Truck would drive fine over perfect roads but would make you feel uncomfortable when driving through construction and or busy roads. It just always seemed like there was a delay between the steering wheel feedback and me correcting for such behavior that the road was causing so I thought then it must be the steering box that needs a rebuild. Well, one day doing maintenance on my truck I decided to un-bolt the front drive shaft and check the 3rd member flange and see how much play it had and it would turn significantly side-to-side. At this point I knew that I should consider rebuilding the 3rd. However, I tightened the big nut at the 3rd member flange to eliminate that side-to-side movement and went for a drive. Well, that ended up solving my issue and it didn't make sense to me until after I did an adjustment and went for a drive. The bearing inside had effectively a lot of play that was causing a "delayed vagueness" between the road and the steering wheel road feedback. Lol I still plan to rebuild the steering box because it's the last thing I haven't touched but this one was confusing for me.
My rig would get the wobbles on the freeway when driving over beat up pavement. No issues since replacing all of the bushings and tie rods. It's made a huge difference.
I have same problem. Gonna need to do the same on my rig as well
Make me think a built 2nd gen p/u like your old one is a more practical rig. And if you needed more room. Your old 1st runner built the same wouldve been a good choice
Well to be fair I did have to cut off all the suspension on the pickup and SAS it just to make it off-road capable haha. The FZJ is definitely more work but it overall feels more solid. It won't get in the same tight spaces that the pickup got, but it's a better all-around-rig IMO.
I like the table saw hack as a welding table.
Relax on how long things takes. If you are measuring in hours you are way ahead of me. Best case is days and sometimes it expands to weeks!
The spidertrax spacers fit over the hubs? I didn't think they would fit. Did you have to modify?
Yeah, they're designed for it. Fit over with no issues, perfect bore.
Please drop a link to the drop brackets you installed. I am planning a 76 series build and am having trouble sourcing parts since they were never imported to the US. I believe the 80 series drop for the radius arms would be the same as the front and back of the 76 series. If not, they shouldn't be too difficult to modify. Thanks
Check out eimkeith.com
Dude, great stuff. Love your fearless but thoughtful approach. You inspire me to take on more with my 80. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I've learned everything I know about this stuff by just doing it.
What lift would you go with if you just wanted to run 35s?
Honestly, probably none. I'd make them fit on stock height with refreshed stock height springs and upgraded shocks. Cut anything that gets in the way.
If Mr TOYOTA SAN were to have His ever nightmare from HELL, this would be it.
I have no problems with my stock Lanndcruiser.😊
love the video! a quick note - on the PCK, I recommend going as high as possible on the axle side and using whichever hole on the frame side gets you closest to level *without* the axle side being lower than the frame side. ( - you could lift that axle side and improve your rear roll center/handling even a bit more)
Will do! Thanks!!
also, if you haven't rebuilt your front knuckles yet, you might want to look at offset trunnion bearings for that additional caster correction - avoids a lot of potential steering interference and pinion angle issues
@@eimkeiththe chassis mount for the panhard in this video is a V style? Cause this is the same type I have and want to order one. Thanks
@@slzbuildz it's the axle side that is V-shaped or flat; the one in the video is the flat mount (you can see the top edge of the factory mount at 2:23) I have plenty of stock atm, just hit me up when you're ready.
@eimkeith yeah I just ordered a bunch of stuff from you.
Move your axle forward. I used 80 Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit - Red Line Land Cruisers RL1080 (SN2-19)
The radius arm mounts welded on in this video move the axle forward the same amount as the Red Line kit. 🤘
if you plan to continue the 80 series built i guess I'm gonna be right behind you on the build also 😁
One thing with the radius arm setup. Flipped arms are also quite a popular setup, it increases clearance under the diff, the radius arms sit flatter as they are mounted ontop of the diff which increases ride quality, and you can set your own custom castor up the front.
Flipping arms on an 80 is not very popular, especially for the amount of lift most people do (4" or less), it's a considerable amount of work compared to caster plates or just new arms.
@@napir in Australia every second lifted 80 has flipped arms, even if it’s a 3” lift people go flipped as it improves ride quality and flexes better using stock arms
Great series, keep the 80 series alive forever
Thanks!
Drag link needs to match the panhard angle
Awesome work man. I am debating what suspension to go with on my 80. I agree you must do these corrections or it will be scary to drive. That said it has me thinking if I need to weld brackets to fix the radius arm issues, maybe it’s time to just do a 3-link up front and weld a few more brackets.
I'm all for a 3-link. Go for it!
Such a huge difference in how it drives! 😅
They don’t build them like they used to! Great job! Jealous want to start looking for one! To build for my son!
Thanks!
Cut an turn the knuckles to get 6degrees of castor
I absolutely love this idea and it's something I've been considering because it's so easy to do and will also decouple caster from pinion angle.
Love the content and the build so far. Just curious why do people say "rig" all the damn time?
Thanks! Because I try not to repeatedly say “truck” or “cruiser”, so I toss “rig” in there for more variety in vocabulary. That’s my reason at least
Change bushing in those radius arms to offset bushings and that’ll get ya some more caster back
I have some sitting here. I didn’t put them in because they seem so stiff that they’d restrict movement. What’s your experience with them?
any problems with finding brake parts....rotors and calipers ?? I have a 1990 HDJ80 right hand drive
Dude, great video! What's your handle on Mud?
Thanks! Just rmgarage
Well done nice work 🔧
How’s the front driveshaft length? I’m about to start this same lift.
When are you going to take it out on a shake down trail?
I was just telling myself the shakedown has to happen very soon. I need it to flex out so I can figure out where to limit travel, what to cut, etc.
Well I'm the guy who bought the springs from you if you want to try it out we are doing a easy trail run in the desert jest south of you if your interested tomorrow
What are the actual diameter of the new tires on the truck? What psi are you running? I like the look of these tires!
you have to bring those pittsburg gray jacks back for the recall!!
I don’t use them ever to support the weight of a vehicle, there were 12 ton Daytona jacks on the frame. Do I just take them in and they’ll give me new ones? Thanks
@@RM_Garage yes, I showed them the recall notice on google and they gave me a pair of Daytona’s for only the sales tax! So like $10. But that’s cause they didn’t have Pittsburg in stock
If you are not welding for something to hold pressure those welds lookd great.
Inner and outer tie rods also lower and upper ball joints cause that problem
Try to adjust the steering gearbox need to be align.
Great video mate. Love the content.
Thanks!
Just a fyi your shocks are upside down, your boot is the top of your shock not the bottom. Will still work but they won’t work anywhere near as well as they should.
Normally yeah but the dobinsons IMS shocks mount this way. They only mount the way that they’re on. Upper mount different than lower mount. I thought the same thing and googled it because I was confused
Where do you go for your parts? Need the bushings and tie rods for my LC80 as well.
Parts in this video were from Eimkeith. Other places I buy parts are wits end, rockauto, metaltech, ebay, etc.
@@RM_Garage Thank you!!
Great video
say hello to 1MPG
Actually 9-10 lmao but yeah, not built for MPG, built for fun.
Total overkill this setup.
Depends whatcha wanna do with it? I wouldn't say 38's for rock crawling is overkill considering most are on 37s - 40s.
@@RM_Garage The ride is terrible with these huge tires.
@@Coordinator61 Rides pretty good with the dobinsons setup. Tires are pretty soft, feels great.
"Don't put spaces on a Land Cruiser or any car for that matter."
Is there a way to do that?
I do not think you need to fit those giant tires in a car. That is like for a farm truck. The rest are good mods
Looking good brother, when are we gonna get that thing on a trail and see what she does? I’d love to bring Black Betty out there and wheel with you!!!
It’s ready! Had it on a trail last weekend. Bring it up!