Just one more reason why integrated handlerbars don't make much sense for (most) customers. They do however look sexy! I went with my own separate bar/stem combo because I need a lot of reach and narrower bars. Nice build Jourdain!
The sole thought of having to remove olives, cut hydraulic lines, purge again everything just because you put the wrong stem length, or the handlebar flexes too much, or too little, or you don't get used to the shape ... That gives me some cold sweat. Definitely I prefer handlebars with the depressed parts to put the lines there so they are not felt once wrapped with tape, but always external. Unfortunately these are becoming a rarity ...
Having done a few of these bikes now... I can see why normal bars with semi routed cables or external cables are handy in deed. Everythign has it's place but if you can't do the work yourself it's going to get costly with labour just to change a cable 🤔
@@JourdainColeman I know how to do it, but it is very tedious thing to do for just changing the handlebar for one with a different stem length for instance, or different flare. And I see no obvious advantage apart from the fully hidden cables.
I get that the spacers didn’t fit , but why not just slam the stem and run standard spacers on top. Then order some new spacers or modify the ones you have at a later date ? Now getting a proper fit will be much harder .
Shifter housing is always compressionless. Compressionless brake housing is another beast, on top of the longitudinal steel (vs. Spiral on standard brake housing) you have kevlar reinforcement to avoid it "exploding". Therefore compressionless brake housing is very stiff and has a larger diameter. But since you were "only" using shifter housing this is pretty standard... looking forward to Part #2
Perfect time to drop this video, just building my self up for my first frame build. Falath Pro Disc so your video is hugely welcome and confidence building for me. Cheers Jourdain 😁👍👏
So couple of things, I've built 3 Chinese direct bikes. Agree the headset spacers is not ideal. But let's remember these are often supplied by a 3rd party and not the manufacturer (personally I think you've just received a bad batch). Sure people will say QC but that's unreasonable to check every single component fitment. If anything it's their supplier that should be doing that. I also wouldn't of compromised fit 10mm (may not sound alot but in bike fitting it does) or not as that could skew your impressions of its ride! But as always a fair review and perspective.
yeah, I guess I could have filed them down and made them fit. But that's not ideal. The position should be similar to my Elves Falath pro (We compared side by side before cutting)
I would not cut the fork stem until the bike had been completely assembled and the rider was then fitted to the bike. To cut the stem at that level of assembly means there is no going back.
I'd be keen on hearing Johnny's opinion on the mysterious 'air' port on top of the L-Twoo levers. I got a good bleed by inverting and tilting the bike and bleeding as I went. I got a lot of air out of levers and calipers that way, by keeping the bleeding going as I went.
I have same frame, all fit and routing cable took two minutes for a beginner like me ;🙃, and without any cable guides...I just wait for better weather here for some serious testing 😁
@@JourdainColeman well......cables yes....crank no 😂😂 I had some issues installing my SRAM Force crankset, the small innerring touches the frame, I had it on and off 6 or more times, before I found the right spacer but it ended well at last 👌
You cut the steerer tube so short that you can't add the spacer later back in? That makes no sense to me. I would probably have just done some drilling on the spacer so you can align the holes. Or does the bar stem combo prevent having any extra steerer tube?
Agreed, ream out the nub holes on the spacers, it would have been a slightly lose fit until on the stem and tightened down, and at the very least put a spacer on top of the headset in the short term to keep the stem a length that you could later add the new spacers, this was a shortsighted mistake imo to just bail out on the spacers and hack the stem so short.
I've seen so many QC issues personally over ten years of building bikes with ex China frames, forks, wheels and parts. Luckily I have tools and experience to modify and repair faulty goods but not many do. Not acceptable in 2023.
I get that not everyone is mechanically inclined and many want a puzzle piece that all just slot together, and I guess if that’s the case buy from the major manufacturers and you’ll have no issues, and lighter pockets, but there’s a reason that you can build a Chinese setup for a fraction of the price, and for me as someone who builds motorcycles and often fabricated parts from scratch and sounds like for you as well, part of the adventure is tweaking and modifying parts to get that quality build at a bargain price. It’s fun in my eyes.
And there lies the problem. Most people buying China bikes don’t have the tools or experience to get it to work. It’s nice when you have a RUclips channel and get a satisfactory response but I’ve dealt with several people over there and either they don’t understand or even care. The average joe has a much harder time.
How is your rx12 holding up? I was at first a bit disappointed by the shifting performance, but it has significantly improved over time and right now it basically works fine. And the groupset with the 11-34 casette from Ali and the sram eagle chain is among the most silent ones I have ever tested... Also zero rattling so far in the brifters...
Despite the slight issues you had in building I’d still build rather than buy - I see these “ quirks “ as all part it experience and tbh I reckon you may could have filed out the spacer to “ make it fit “ as it wasn’t by much significant of a lip that would affect the structure integrity. Personally I wouldn’t have run it slammed- but to each their own
Great Video! I've actually bought the Airwolf YFR-066 which is said to be this exact frame. Though i was wondering.. how did you guys route the front deraileur cable housing through there? The removable insert seems to be too tight to fit the entire housing through there like shown in the video. Did you have another one supplied with more clearance? Sorry for the stupid question, just wondering.
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
I put my cables through the frame 1st and thought I'd put them through the stem and bars. 2nd!! Nope, the cable wouldn't go around the corner. Do it all came off, and they treaded through the bars from the lever end fairly easily
NOOO! Don't EVER leave a torque wrench at zero for storage! Always leave it at it's lowest setting above zero (so 2NM for most bike torque wrenches). In fact, it's best practice to NEVER wind a torque wrench to zero.
From a Norbar study: Firstly, four wrenches were taken from our production line and our calibration lab took results. Two wrenches were then left wound up to maximum and two wound down to their minimum scale setting. After 24 hours the calibration lab took further results, and again after a week, then again after one month. The most significant result from the test is that all of the wrenches remained within tolerance, regardless of whether they were left at the minimum scale setting or at their maximum. The wrenches left wound to maximum did move more but the change happened quickly, within 24 hours, and then they stabilised.
Weird to see people that think they're informed enough to have a cycling channel but don't know that you're supposed to set a torque wrench at zero when not in use🙃
Can you please recheck the caliper width in the video you said that they are post mount but from what i know they are not (trace velo says it in one of his videos)
Checkout the frame unboxing here - ruclips.net/video/A1WrXTz26ws/видео.html
Just one more reason why integrated handlerbars don't make much sense for (most) customers. They do however look sexy! I went with my own separate bar/stem combo because I need a lot of reach and narrower bars. Nice build Jourdain!
The sole thought of having to remove olives, cut hydraulic lines, purge again everything just because you put the wrong stem length, or the handlebar flexes too much, or too little, or you don't get used to the shape ... That gives me some cold sweat. Definitely I prefer handlebars with the depressed parts to put the lines there so they are not felt once wrapped with tape, but always external. Unfortunately these are becoming a rarity ...
Having done a few of these bikes now... I can see why normal bars with semi routed cables or external cables are handy in deed. Everythign has it's place but if you can't do the work yourself it's going to get costly with labour just to change a cable 🤔
@@JourdainColeman I know how to do it, but it is very tedious thing to do for just changing the handlebar for one with a different stem length for instance, or different flare. And I see no obvious advantage apart from the fully hidden cables.
Hiya J long time great video I saw Johnny last at Sigma I purchased some new carbon wheels 😀🙏🏿… keep up the great work 💪🏿
The saga is not over. Johnny is an ace and crushes it at 34 mph on a flat. Tune in next time for integrated bar stem hell.
That sounds about right 😂
I get that the spacers didn’t fit , but why not just slam the stem and run standard spacers on top. Then order some new spacers or modify the ones you have at a later date ? Now getting a proper fit will be much harder .
Shifter housing is always compressionless. Compressionless brake housing is another beast, on top of the longitudinal steel (vs. Spiral on standard brake housing) you have kevlar reinforcement to avoid it "exploding". Therefore compressionless brake housing is very stiff and has a larger diameter. But since you were "only" using shifter housing this is pretty standard... looking forward to Part #2
Perfect time to drop this video, just building my self up for my first frame build.
Falath Pro Disc so your video is hugely welcome and confidence building for me.
Cheers Jourdain 😁👍👏
Glad I could help!
So couple of things, I've built 3 Chinese direct bikes. Agree the headset spacers is not ideal. But let's remember these are often supplied by a 3rd party and not the manufacturer (personally I think you've just received a bad batch). Sure people will say QC but that's unreasonable to check every single component fitment. If anything it's their supplier that should be doing that. I also wouldn't of compromised fit 10mm (may not sound alot but in bike fitting it does) or not as that could skew your impressions of its ride! But as always a fair review and perspective.
yeah, I guess I could have filed them down and made them fit. But that's not ideal. The position should be similar to my Elves Falath pro (We compared side by side before cutting)
im so looking forward to Jonny doing the handlebars, he doesnt seem like the type to be flustered!
The calmest person... it's very reassuring 👌🏼- The video is coming this Sunday
Again a nice video , looking forward to the next.
Coming soon!
I would not cut the fork stem until the bike had been completely assembled and the rider was then fitted to the bike. To cut the stem at that level of assembly means there is no going back.
Great content & excellently directed 💪🏾
Glad you enjoyed it!
u are the best! big fan
I'd be keen on hearing Johnny's opinion on the mysterious 'air' port on top of the L-Twoo levers. I got a good bleed by inverting and tilting the bike and bleeding as I went. I got a lot of air out of levers and calipers that way, by keeping the bleeding going as I went.
Built up my mountain bikes for the last 20 years. Bought my road bike built but have changed a few things.
I have same frame, all fit and routing cable took two minutes for a beginner like me ;🙃, and without any cable guides...I just wait for better weather here for some serious testing 😁
Thanks for sharing, Good to hear that it worked as expected for you 👌🏼
@@JourdainColeman well......cables yes....crank no 😂😂 I had some issues installing my SRAM Force crankset, the small innerring touches the frame, I had it on and off 6 or more times, before I found the right spacer but it ended well at last 👌
oh one last thing, only criticism, top cap have terrible fit, leave a small gap, even i sanded fork down, it simply have a bad fit.
Good to see Ludacris is cycling now
You cut the steerer tube so short that you can't add the spacer later back in? That makes no sense to me. I would probably have just done some drilling on the spacer so you can align the holes. Or does the bar stem combo prevent having any extra steerer tube?
Agreed, ream out the nub holes on the spacers, it would have been a slightly lose fit until on the stem and tightened down, and at the very least put a spacer on top of the headset in the short term to keep the stem a length that you could later add the new spacers, this was a shortsighted mistake imo to just bail out on the spacers and hack the stem so short.
Enjoying the content. Subbed.
Awesome, thank you!
I've seen so many QC issues personally over ten years of building bikes with ex China frames, forks, wheels and parts. Luckily I have tools and experience to modify and repair faulty goods but not many do. Not acceptable in 2023.
I get that not everyone is mechanically inclined and many want a puzzle piece that all just slot together, and I guess if that’s the case buy from the major manufacturers and you’ll have no issues, and lighter pockets, but there’s a reason that you can build a Chinese setup for a fraction of the price, and for me as someone who builds motorcycles and often fabricated parts from scratch and sounds like for you as well, part of the adventure is tweaking and modifying parts to get that quality build at a bargain price. It’s fun in my eyes.
And there lies the problem. Most people buying China bikes don’t have the tools or experience to get it to work. It’s nice when you have a RUclips channel and get a satisfactory response but I’ve dealt with several people over there and either they don’t understand or even care. The average joe has a much harder time.
Seen plenty of problems with Felts, and Pinarellos. It's not just these Chinese bikes
Looking forward to part II... what could possibly go wrong? 🤫
How is your rx12 holding up? I was at first a bit disappointed by the shifting performance, but it has significantly improved over time and right now it basically works fine. And the groupset with the 11-34 casette from Ali and the sram eagle chain is among the most silent ones I have ever tested... Also zero rattling so far in the brifters...
👀
Despite the slight issues you had in building I’d still build rather than buy - I see these “ quirks “ as all part it experience and tbh I reckon you may could have filed out the spacer to “ make it fit “ as it wasn’t by much significant of a lip that would affect the structure integrity.
Personally I wouldn’t have run it slammed- but to each their own
Great Video! I've actually bought the Airwolf YFR-066 which is said to be this exact frame. Though i was wondering.. how did you guys route the front deraileur cable housing through there? The removable insert seems to be too tight to fit the entire housing through there like shown in the video. Did you have another one supplied with more clearance? Sorry for the stupid question, just wondering.
What's the tune around 13:30 when you're racing in the park? :D
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
Enjoying the content, mate. Keep going!
Glad you enjoy it!
I put my cables through the frame 1st and thought I'd put them through the stem and bars. 2nd!! Nope, the cable wouldn't go around the corner. Do it all came off, and they treaded through the bars from the lever end fairly easily
What T... Is the frame?
I thank Jourdain getting my good side. Also I think my voice has gotten deeper lol. I'm worried for part 2 😅
can you review tfsa road bike frameset :D
How does the crankset spin with the previous video's bb measurement inconsistencies?
Did Johny ever get his hair caught in the bottom bracket ? 😮.
Excellent video, two thumbs up!! Hey!! your mechanic...is that Ludracris from Fast and the Furious 2? 😁
Glad you enjoyed the video! The best mechanic in town 👌🏼
Just a note: those aren't post mount calipers. They're simply a flat mount design that uses adapters.
You can see this especially on the front, if that was a post mount caliper, the bolts wouldn't line up. (70mm spacing vs 74mm)
“Majestically lathered up”
You’ve missed a career in specialist literature creation 😮
What about hyper carbon wheel review? 😬
These are NOT post mount. Check out Trace Velo's video on the matter
NOOO! Don't EVER leave a torque wrench at zero for storage! Always leave it at it's lowest setting above zero (so 2NM for most bike torque wrenches). In fact, it's best practice to NEVER wind a torque wrench to zero.
From a Norbar study:
Firstly, four wrenches were taken from our production line and our calibration lab took results. Two
wrenches were then left wound up to maximum and two wound down to their minimum scale
setting. After 24 hours the calibration lab took further results, and again after a week, then again
after one month.
The most significant result from the test is that all of the wrenches remained within tolerance,
regardless of whether they were left at the minimum scale setting or at their maximum. The
wrenches left wound to maximum did move more but the change happened quickly, within 24
hours, and then they stabilised.
torque wrench is supposed to be left at 2nm not zero when not in use. You can use 3m helicopter tape on seat post for better grip
Weird to see people that think they're informed enough to have a cycling channel but don't know that you're supposed to set a torque wrench at zero when not in use🙃
I hate this internal cable routing! I'm Sorry.
It' is annoying I must admit
first:)
Hello
Can you please recheck the caliper width in the video you said that they are post mount but from what i know they are not (trace velo says it in one of his videos)
Pressing in that bearing had me nervous.
Always the most nerve racking part of a build.
That’s why, it’s made in china..