I think it's important to put some epoxy or at least hot glue in the end where the wires go into the plug to help with two things. One it keeps grime and excess moisture from getting in there, and two it helps hold the wires in the plugs so if they get pulled on you're not pulling on the joints as much.
Few things wrong with this solder job. One you should have a set of helping hands with two alligator clips, this way you're not holding any of the wires and they won't move while cooling. Two, you should plug a female connector into the male connector for better heat dissipation, and to prevent the gold contacts from moving out of place if over heated. Three, when soldering the wire to the gold connectors, the wire should be sitting in the cup of the gold connector (after pre-tinning both wire and cup). The soldering iron should be touching the gold connector which will melt the solder in the cup, which will melt the solder on the wire, and everything melt and cool at the same temp.
Question, you mentioned that your high powered 6s boats should be running 10 gage for the power and negative leads how come they come stock with 12 gage? The reason why I am asking is because my sonicwake v2 just melted the solder on the negative side of the plug in on my esc and left me dead in the middle of the lake. How do you go abouts on changing them bigger if you can't access the wires on the esc because of the way the esc is built?
Nice work 👍🏻. The only thing I would do to help is use flux. Just helps the solder bite better. Ensures against dry joints. & you don’t need as much heat 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
Happy New Years, thanks for the information. Quick question I just ordered two of the Spektrum Avian 80amp Smart ESC for my 1.2m T-28 Trojan, P-47 Razor Back and was wondering would I have to do any soldering to connect any of the lead or connectors to my batteries, receivers or motor or would everything connect with any soldering?
May I ask, if my BLX100 ESC has ic5 connection, but both my Spektrum packs and smart charger have ic3, can I just swap my BLX100 connection for an ic3? Is that safe? Or do I now need to upgrade my packs to ic5, THEN manufacture this dongle or order a pre made adapter for charging?
Horizon Hobby yep thank you very much I picked one up locally at Hobby Quarters in Foxboro Mass. Easier than soldering on a new device connector. Which I still might do. But thank you for clearing that up.
Here is an idea sell that so people don't get stuck with a new Spektrum charger that takes ic3 and a new Spektrum battery that is ic5. Spectrum drop the ball here and Horizon should have picked it up so people didn't get left without a easier option.
XT90...XT60...XT30...one plug to rule them all nope just one standard 😂 there the industry standard for every aftermarket battery in 2019! But that's just my opinion, because I like to save money and open my horizons pun intended... 🥃cheers🍻
@@wackpackxj are you stupid? The + and - markings are very tiny and unless you see the + marking your just gonna think the - mark is a casting/mold mark as it runs the lenth of the section it on from base to tip. ALWAYS use red for positive and black for negative
I think it's important to put some epoxy or at least hot glue in the end where the wires go into the plug to help with two things.
One it keeps grime and excess moisture from getting in there, and two it helps hold the wires in the plugs so if they get pulled on you're not pulling on the joints as much.
Few things wrong with this solder job.
One you should have a set of helping hands with two alligator clips, this way you're not holding any of the wires and they won't move while cooling.
Two, you should plug a female connector into the male connector for better heat dissipation, and to prevent the gold contacts from moving out of place if over heated.
Three, when soldering the wire to the gold connectors, the wire should be sitting in the cup of the gold connector (after pre-tinning both wire and cup). The soldering iron should be touching the gold connector which will melt the solder in the cup, which will melt the solder on the wire, and everything melt and cool at the same temp.
Question, you mentioned that your high powered 6s boats should be running 10 gage for the power and negative leads how come they come stock with 12 gage? The reason why I am asking is because my sonicwake v2 just melted the solder on the negative side of the plug in on my esc and left me dead in the middle of the lake. How do you go abouts on changing them bigger if you can't access the wires on the esc because of the way the esc is built?
When you solder, remember to twist the small wires in the same direction that they are already twisted before giving it tin.
What temp are you using?
Excelent, how do you easily remove the grep cap of IC5?
I watched this video hoping he would do exactly that.
Nice work 👍🏻. The only thing I would do to help is use flux. Just helps the solder bite better. Ensures against dry joints. & you don’t need as much heat 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
Use solder with flux in it. Easy!
If you have helping hands clamps use them on the connector and on the wire, pre position and hold your wires firm then add the heat and solder
When are you going to have IC2 connectors in stock ?
How come when I try this the orange plastic melts before the solder?
What is the amp rating for the ic5?
I never had problems with deans connectors even with 6s batteries.Guess I’m old school but it feels like deans give a good tight connection.
What parts would I need for an Ic2 and Ic3 adapter? I'm trying to recreate: Adapter, 6": IC3 Battery/IC2 Device
I'm putting a deans plug on the esc side do I have to use that middle wire
Nope, just cut it short and confirm that it won't short out on anything.
Is that little wire in the middle for anti spark aswell?
Nice video...have you heard about XT150 connectors? They are smart as you can split them and easily put batteries in series :-)
Whats the amp spec for the IC3 and IC5 connectors?
Happy New Years, thanks for the information. Quick question I just ordered two of the Spektrum Avian 80amp Smart ESC for my 1.2m T-28 Trojan, P-47 Razor Back and was wondering would I have to do any soldering to connect any of the lead or connectors to my batteries, receivers or motor or would everything connect with any soldering?
Just bought a pre made ic5 which came with 10 gauge wire.
May I ask, if my BLX100 ESC has ic5 connection, but both my Spektrum packs and smart charger have ic3, can I just swap my BLX100 connection for an ic3? Is that safe?
Or do I now need to upgrade my packs to ic5, THEN manufacture this dongle or order a pre made adapter for charging?
You can swap connectors anytime; that's not a problem. We do make adapters for both charging and/or for use in a vehicle.
Horizon Hobby yep thank you very much I picked one up locally at Hobby Quarters in Foxboro Mass. Easier than soldering on a new device connector. Which I still might do. But thank you for clearing that up.
where do i buy this adapter?
Swap to XT60i and you can use an ISDT charger instead!
Horizon bought the BattGo license and killed it. :(
If your didn’t overheat the connector I dont know who could
If/when you guys add a antispark variant then I’d consider switching. Looks like a good connector.
Here is an idea sell that so people don't get stuck with a new Spektrum charger that takes ic3 and a new Spektrum battery that is ic5. Spectrum drop the ball here and Horizon should have picked it up so people didn't get left without a easier option.
They do sell them. Tune in at 10:02 in the video.
XT90...XT60...XT30...one plug to rule them all nope just one standard 😂 there the industry standard for every aftermarket battery in 2019! But that's just my opinion, because I like to save money and open my horizons pun intended...
🥃cheers🍻
XT60i is where it’s at now.
Nicely said, 2021 here we are!
Can I convert my existing non smart batteries to ic5 with the third wire? Is there instructions on how to do that?
noob mistake by not using red color wire for the positive end.
Their products don’t have color coded insulation on the wire. They have labels on the terminal ends.
@@wackpackxj are you stupid? The + and - markings are very tiny and unless you see the + marking your just gonna think the - mark is a casting/mold mark as it runs the lenth of the section it on from base to tip. ALWAYS use red for positive and black for negative