i've posted the following notes several places over the last couple of months, and thought you could make use of some notes Brian - here we go: I'd shared some notes with another post as of earlier this evening, and I thought I'd share them with you here: I've owned my '01 Superhawk for over 14-years now. Definitely change out the cam chain tensioners for manual ones - if you can, do 'em up with some safety wire. Research the maintenance of them as the miles go by; also note things may be slightly noisier with manual cam chain adjusters - you'll have to live with it. The automated cam chain tensioners springs are prone to failure. This was supposedly to be remedied with the '01 and newer series, but my rear had failed, and I've heard of others of that series ('01-05) failing as well. The rectifier: I've got mine with a CPU heatsink strapped to the aluminum face; with silicone thermal paste in between mating the surfaces - try to get a legitimate thermal paste (the grey/silver stuff), as silicone as the tendency to "weep." I don't have the Honda front fork fluid name/spec off the top of my head, but I believe it has been changed from SS-7 to SS-8 - I upgraded to the SS-8 around the time when I did the fork seals. In addition, keep an eye on the rear exhaust header - mine had been prone to slipping off and causing a real degradation in performance. I've had to DIY stainless steel cable braid around things to keep it in place, and am still "testing it." As my ride is now 20-years old, I am eyeing an upgrade to SS front brake lines. If you're in the market for parts from the Honda shop, note that some of the part numbers have changed/revised - keep an eye on this in the diagrams. I haven't had the best of luck with a K&N high-flow-rate air filter, and others have had difficulty as well. Word of mouth has it that the Factory Pro jet kit supposedly easier to tune in comparison to the DynoJet kit. Also of importance, is the ignition advance (mounted on the side of the carbs); they have been found to be set to be "higher" than the manual specifies (700+ ohms?) - I don't remember what I found mine at, but it was higher than the specified 500ohms (+/-10ohms); have the carbs synced prior to making the adjustment. For my mild riding, I've found the Pirelli Angel GT series (Now, Pirelli Angel GT II), have been outstanding for getting mileage in excess of just above 20k miles. The rear is a dual compound, and the front is a single compound. I don't remember the "high tensile" RK chain I've been going with, but highly recommend it - invest in it - don't get something cheap, or you'll be doing adjustments more than you want. Also, over the last year for the age of the bike, I have found cracks developing in the carb diaphragms. I have seen resellers out of China for new ones, at ~$25 each - I do not know anything about them, but am "looking at them." One of the most important things... ...I would not fiddle with the pilot screws - leave those alone - the end - the end. (Sigh! :\ ) I have upgraded the headlight bulb with a DC-based HID bulb setup, and I like it - but remember that it is not a true HID projector setup, and you may be impeding other's view after dark if not set properly. When it comes to the wheel and steering stem bearings, I've gone with All Balls Racing bearing kits. I also went with their fuel tank petcock kit, instead of the Honda one - the original [Honda] one had developed a tear in the diaphragm. Also as I have chased "glug-glug" sounds of air entering into the fuel tank after riding, I have questioned the carbs not getting the fuel they need during riding and have moved the fuel diaphragm vacuum line to the front cylinder lately - i am monitoring this. I believe I have an air leak that is influencing the throttle response and can see a dissimilarity of vacuum draw when I open the throttle that is considerable when I have the mercury synchronizer hooked up - with more vacuum coming from the front cylinder - which is why I have moved the vacuum line to the front heads intake. Oh, and try not holding in the clutch master cylinder for an extended period of time - this can cause something in the gearbox to lose its place it seems and things sound unsightly when you let it out. Also, be careful when power shifting from 1st to 2nd, as it can slip out at times and permanently screw up the shift-dogs (Do i have the terminology right?). I have found SuperhawkForum.com and VTR1000.org to be go-to resources for my ride. Cheers. :) -Matt
Too bad I saw this too late... you can take the fairing off in one piece. There is several hours of videos on repairing the VTR in depth, unfortunately in German. But I guess you can still learn a lot on the bike just by watching, the guy really shows in detail what he is doing. If it should be necessary, I can translate. I have a 2005 VTR and service it on my own. Love that bike. Have fun!
@@threeboysgarage I remember the first time I pulled my fairing off, too. I was pretty happy when I realized the whole thing including the headlight comes off in one piece.
By my understanding 2001 is when a handful of small revisions came to the bike, and remained until production stopped in '05. However, the '03-'05's have the ignition advanced a couple of degrees - I don't recall how much, but I think it was 4+.
i've posted the following notes several places over the last couple of months, and thought you could make use of some notes Brian - here we go: I'd shared some notes with another post as of earlier this evening, and I thought I'd share them with you here: I've owned my '01 Superhawk for over 14-years now. Definitely change out the cam chain tensioners for manual ones - if you can, do 'em up with some safety wire. Research the maintenance of them as the miles go by; also note things may be slightly noisier with manual cam chain adjusters - you'll have to live with it. The automated cam chain tensioners springs are prone to failure. This was supposedly to be remedied with the '01 and newer series, but my rear had failed, and I've heard of others of that series ('01-05) failing as well. The rectifier: I've got mine with a CPU heatsink strapped to the aluminum face; with silicone thermal paste in between mating the surfaces - try to get a legitimate thermal paste (the grey/silver stuff), as silicone as the tendency to "weep." I don't have the Honda front fork fluid name/spec off the top of my head, but I believe it has been changed from SS-7 to SS-8 - I upgraded to the SS-8 around the time when I did the fork seals. In addition, keep an eye on the rear exhaust header - mine had been prone to slipping off and causing a real degradation in performance. I've had to DIY stainless steel cable braid around things to keep it in place, and am still "testing it." As my ride is now 20-years old, I am eyeing an upgrade to SS front brake lines. If you're in the market for parts from the Honda shop, note that some of the part numbers have changed/revised - keep an eye on this in the diagrams. I haven't had the best of luck with a K&N high-flow-rate air filter, and others have had difficulty as well. Word of mouth has it that the Factory Pro jet kit supposedly easier to tune in comparison to the DynoJet kit. Also of importance, is the ignition advance (mounted on the side of the carbs); they have been found to be set to be "higher" than the manual specifies (700+ ohms?) - I don't remember what I found mine at, but it was higher than the specified 500ohms (+/-10ohms); have the carbs synced prior to making the adjustment. For my mild riding, I've found the Pirelli Angel GT series (Now, Pirelli Angel GT II), have been outstanding for getting mileage in excess of just above 20k miles. The rear is a dual compound, and the front is a single compound. I don't remember the "high tensile" RK chain I've been going with, but highly recommend it - invest in it - don't get something cheap, or you'll be doing adjustments more than you want. Also, over the last year for the age of the bike, I have found cracks developing in the carb diaphragms. I have seen resellers out of China for new ones, at ~$25 each - I do not know anything about them, but am "looking at them." One of the most important things... ...I would not fiddle with the pilot screws - leave those alone - the end - the end. (Sigh! :\ ) I have upgraded the headlight bulb with a DC-based HID bulb setup, and I like it - but remember that it is not a true HID projector setup, and you may be impeding other's view after dark if not set properly. When it comes to the wheel and steering stem bearings, I've gone with All Balls Racing bearing kits. I also went with their fuel tank petcock kit, instead of the Honda one - the original [Honda] one had developed a tear in the diaphragm. Also as I have chased "glug-glug" sounds of air entering into the fuel tank after riding, I have questioned the carbs not getting the fuel they need during riding and have moved the fuel diaphragm vacuum line to the front cylinder lately - i am monitoring this. I believe I have an air leak that is influencing the throttle response and can see a dissimilarity of vacuum draw when I open the throttle that is considerable when I have the mercury synchronizer hooked up - with more vacuum coming from the front cylinder - which is why I have moved the vacuum line to the front heads intake. Oh, and try not holding in the clutch master cylinder for an extended period of time - this can cause something in the gearbox to lose its place it seems and things sound unsightly when you let it out. Also, be careful when power shifting from 1st to 2nd, as it can slip out at times and permanently screw up the shift-dogs (Do i have the terminology right?). I have found SuperhawkForum.com and VTR1000.org to be go-to resources for my ride. Cheers. :) -Matt
Too bad I saw this too late... you can take the fairing off in one piece. There is several hours of videos on repairing the VTR in depth, unfortunately in German. But I guess you can still learn a lot on the bike just by watching, the guy really shows in detail what he is doing. If it should be necessary, I can translate.
I have a 2005 VTR and service it on my own. Love that bike. Have fun!
Thank you! I basically figured it out as I went. My biggest issue, is while I am in there, I want to replace everything which gets expensive quickly.
@@threeboysgarage I remember the first time I pulled my fairing off, too. I was pretty happy when I realized the whole thing including the headlight comes off in one piece.
@@Michael467012 Yes that sounds so much better!
Great video thanks for the help
No problem 👍
I can't get spark out of mine lmk if u had this problem
Is everything pretty much the same on a 2001?
I'm not sure of that. I would guess yes, very close.
By my understanding 2001 is when a handful of small revisions came to the bike, and remained until production stopped in '05. However, the '03-'05's have the ignition advanced a couple of degrees - I don't recall how much, but I think it was 4+.
Here's the link... ruclips.net/video/Xy92y5p4IZI/видео.html
У меня тоже был vtr. Можешь посмотреть мои видео на канале)
Not sure what this says...but cool!