Question based on my own uncertainty: I have heard some people say the correct measurement won’t work if you are not turning the table saw blade back and remeasuring the same spot after spun. Further, when you measure the front of the table saw blade, marking where you measure, spinning the blade with same spot now spun to the backside is this method I’ve heard. Have you heard of this? Your video is the first I’ve seen that doesn’t suggest this and am wondering what’s going on mathematically if this is or isn’t the case. No clue, just a curious wood worker. Thanks ! Love your vids
@@BlueBomber628 I feel like that’s overkill. Some woodworkers try to hit machinist levels of precision and that is just not necessary with wood. The sawstop manual actually recommends a .002 differential is within tolerance. Marking the blade and measuring from the same spot would probably be useful if I thought the trunnion was messed up, or needed new bearings, but that’s not a concern I had with my saw. I’ll be honest, I had this saw for 5 years before ever going through this calibration.
@@catspawcustoms greatly appreciate this response, whenever I use my SST Calibrator I’m always spending an extra amount of time marking, making sure it’s on the exact spot and then going back and forth x amount of times when re calibrating to make it exact. Knowing that there is a tolerance variable and opposing opinion to this spun method helps relieve some stress when it doesn’t seem to come out perfect! Thank you very much
On my SawStop the fence has adjustment knobs to square it, not necessary to move the actual rail attached to the saw. I like how easy it is to adjust the miter to the blade though, great design IMHO. I’ve had mine for 4 years and it’s still perfect.
This was an excellent and informative video. Thank you so much! It most definitely helped us to check the angle of the blade and square-up the table.
Excellent work, dude! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great job brotha. Great video.
Question based on my own uncertainty:
I have heard some people say the correct measurement won’t work if you are not turning the table saw blade back and remeasuring the same spot after spun.
Further, when you measure the front of the table saw blade, marking where you measure, spinning the blade with same spot now spun to the backside is this method I’ve heard.
Have you heard of this?
Your video is the first I’ve seen that doesn’t suggest this and am wondering what’s going on mathematically if this is or isn’t the case.
No clue, just a curious wood worker. Thanks ! Love your vids
@@BlueBomber628 I feel like that’s overkill. Some woodworkers try to hit machinist levels of precision and that is just not necessary with wood. The sawstop manual actually recommends a .002 differential is within tolerance. Marking the blade and measuring from the same spot would probably be useful if I thought the trunnion was messed up, or needed new bearings, but that’s not a concern I had with my saw. I’ll be honest, I had this saw for 5 years before ever going through this calibration.
@@catspawcustoms greatly appreciate this response, whenever I use my SST Calibrator I’m always spending an extra amount of time marking, making sure it’s on the exact spot and then going back and forth x amount of times when re calibrating to make it exact.
Knowing that there is a tolerance variable and opposing opinion to this spun method helps relieve some stress when it doesn’t seem to come out perfect!
Thank you very much
The original biesmeyer of which that fence is a copy, has adjustment screws for the fence squareness.
It’s weird that sawstop didn’t include that feature. I was actually pretty shocked when I started this and realized the fence was one piece.
On my SawStop the fence has adjustment knobs to square it, not necessary to move the actual rail attached to the saw. I like how easy it is to adjust the miter to the blade though, great design IMHO. I’ve had mine for 4 years and it’s still perfect.