How cars, equipment and training have changed! I love the discipline and precision of your approach. I was an ALS paramedic back in the late 70s/ early 80s in a hospital based service. We were one of very few that did our own extrication ( Fire Dep’t wasn’t interested!). Unibody and air bags weren’t a thing. When Hearst developed the jaws and cutters we ditched that terrifying K-Saw and air chisel. As we were responsible for all the medical care we occasionally did one thing differently in out training: we put one of us or our wives in the car. That took the hahoo factor down a long way, made us real careful. But then, liability wasn’t such a big thing then either! Thanks for a great video, brings back a lot of memories.
Use three chocks instead of 4, its more stabile. The chocks should be setup so a dash lift (one chock under the A pillar) and a dash roll (chock under the B pillar) can be done simultaneously if needed. Prep to put the ram on the non egress side. Turn on the hazard lights, it lets everyone know the car is hot, it also lets you know if taking the battery has been effective. Before taking the battery, manipulate everything that makes sense and is accessible. Seat down and back if appropriate, steering wheel in and up, doors unlocked, hood and trunk popped, windows rolled down, parking brake set, transmission in park, keys off and out... then DC the batt. Both firefighters should start at the front and work in parallel, communication back and forth where hazards are (actually, it works better to communicate what areas are clear, as you can never see everything). No need to duplicate effort on each side, so each firefighter should "leapfrog" each other when it comes to pulling plastic. If you are going to remove the roof, cut the pillars as high as possible, it makes the roof lighter and less jagged material to pass through the PT area. Cutting the crumple zone is a parking lot hack. If the dash is displaced, the crumple zone has already been activated and a hinge zone has been created by the impact. When making the relief cut in the A pillar, watch the steering wheel on the drivers side, the dash on the passenger side... if you see it rise and fall an inch or two, your cut was successful and you can displace the dash, if not, make another deeper cut. Im unclear why all the effort into removing quarter panels, seems like a waste of time. Dont get in the habbit of running one tool at a time. If one FF is spreading a door off, the other should be prepping the roof and cutting hinges. When the spreader passes the C pillar, give a squeeze, so the cutter can get it in one go. When cutting the lower A pillar, position the tool perpendicular to the vehicle, this will reduce the likelyhood of the tool rolling into the seat... the PT will appreciate it. Learn to "see" through all the HVAC garbage in the center console. If you have a basic idea what the anatomy is, you can blow right through it with the spreaders, grab the HVAC subframe, and push all of it to the nose of the vehicle. You only need to displace a dash a few inches, get in the habit of using the spreaders on one side and the ram on the other (non egress side if one PT)... this will double the force going into the dash and help you overcome stronger transverse columns.
@@brycelewis6089 But it's not really reflective of a real time incident. He is just using an undamaged car and we all know when you turn up things are not all nice and easy and straightforward. For a start you dont just go round smashing glass and punching it in with your gloved hand and showering the casualties with glass and there are numerous things missing from what you would normally put in place at a live incident.
Never use your gloved hand to clear the glass, always use the peel and reveal tool. If you use your glove it gets full of glass shards then when use wipe sweat away you end up cutting yourself. You dont need to break all the glass. Any door that can open you can drop the glass down. We actually use Pack ex which is like cling film which is put over all windows so no glass has to be broken unless you need access.
NEVER wipe your face or any skin with gloved hands for many reasons. Chemicals, glass, other contaminants, etc. Even working on my car I use my sleeve or a towel. NEVER gloves.
Great Job. I really enjoyed watching this video. I love efficiency and I feel you have definitely hit the mark. Extrication can be very tricky and not all extrication jobs are the same. I live in South Florida and we perform extrication on a regular basis. I have taken some of this and gone over with my crew. Thank you.
What a great teacher! But why take the fenders of to spread the hinges instead of cutting them with the door open (provided it opens but it seems to be frequent on modern cars, which was your topic)?
1. peel and reveal----you are looking for air bag cylinders, you don't want to cut on and watch it go off or flying, 2. popping tires --once you put your step chocks in place, popping the tires settles the car on to the chocks creating stability.
If you put them in step up, you can only slide them in up to a certain height before the next step is too high. This will probably leave a gap, as opposed to the smooth side up it will always go in and fill the void completely. Additionally, if you're using the step side up and the load shifts, it could drop down to the next step. That's a lot of force moving. It can't drop down to the next step if the steps are facing the ground, it can only slide down the smooth side, which is less likely to happen.
Sorry it took 2 years to have someone answer. You only need to cut the seat belts of the seats with occupants. By cutting the seat belt you don't have to lean over the patient to try to unclip it. Also some vehicles have locking pins that prevent the seat belt from being unclipped like normal in the event of an collision.
@@RAN00777not true. You need to cut the seatbelts if you plan to remove the roof. Regardless of the occupants. This is because the top seat belt anchors to the B and C posts and if you don’t cut them, when you go to remove the roof, the seatbelts will still be attached to the upper posts on the roof and get hung up.
Not to jump in on his answer, however Every A post is reinforced with multiple layers of metal and or solid bars such a boron in the very bottom of it. High on the b post is normally to skip the seat belt attachment, C post last one is normally wider at bottom so more cuts lower you go.
1. Never push the glass in. Bad habit to get into, All your doing to putting glass into the patient compartment or worse into the patient's open wounds. 2. Use a tool to clear the glass not your hand. 3. You don't need to take every window. Take what you need to get the job done and move on. 4. make as little cuts as possible. The more you cut the more time you spend. You have 20 minutes get at it.
In training its better too push in so you have less clean up on your training area like my department does it on grass so less glass in the grass is better I feel that then taking out all the windows in repetitive with everyone of then is good for training getting used too breaking them etc and weve never had an issue with pushing the glass with our hands and some times using the tool during training as much as possible whether its an extra cut etc is once again just becoming familiar with the tool
Great coordinated efforts in extrication. I like the systematic approach to a vehicle. The one suggestion I would make as a Student view, lose the chew. It's distracting when you speak.
I only clicked on the video to comment how the title says 8 minutes, yet the video is over 40 minutes long smh either the title is a lie or there's too much talking and not enough action.
No Forget everything you just watched & heard, When you get hired with a big city fire department especially Philadelphia where I’ve worked for the last 34 years we don’t have time for all this book work! We roll up stab a tire with a knife, start cutting , spreading and ramming! Get the patient to the hospital ASAP. I’ve worked R-1 Squad 72 and Squad 47 I mastered vehicle rescue by the time I was 24 and became a Penn-Dot instructor by 26 when I was promoted. This is a joke, if we took all this time our fatality rate would be 98%!
![Megan Thee Stallion - Otaku Hot Girl [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/USxIYOaIpig/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent!
How cars, equipment and training have changed! I love the discipline and precision of your approach. I was an ALS paramedic back in the late 70s/ early 80s in a hospital based service. We were one of very few that did our own extrication ( Fire Dep’t wasn’t interested!). Unibody and air bags weren’t a thing. When Hearst developed the jaws and cutters we ditched that terrifying K-Saw and air chisel. As we were responsible for all the medical care we occasionally did one thing differently in out training: we put one of us or our wives in the car. That took the hahoo factor down a long way, made us real careful. But then, liability wasn’t such a big thing then either! Thanks for a great video, brings back a lot of memories.
Use three chocks instead of 4, its more stabile. The chocks should be setup so a dash lift (one chock under the A pillar) and a dash roll (chock under the B pillar) can be done simultaneously if needed. Prep to put the ram on the non egress side. Turn on the hazard lights, it lets everyone know the car is hot, it also lets you know if taking the battery has been effective. Before taking the battery, manipulate everything that makes sense and is accessible. Seat down and back if appropriate, steering wheel in and up, doors unlocked, hood and trunk popped, windows rolled down, parking brake set, transmission in park, keys off and out... then DC the batt. Both firefighters should start at the front and work in parallel, communication back and forth where hazards are (actually, it works better to communicate what areas are clear, as you can never see everything). No need to duplicate effort on each side, so each firefighter should "leapfrog" each other when it comes to pulling plastic. If you are going to remove the roof, cut the pillars as high as possible, it makes the roof lighter and less jagged material to pass through the PT area. Cutting the crumple zone is a parking lot hack. If the dash is displaced, the crumple zone has already been activated and a hinge zone has been created by the impact. When making the relief cut in the A pillar, watch the steering wheel on the drivers side, the dash on the passenger side... if you see it rise and fall an inch or two, your cut was successful and you can displace the dash, if not, make another deeper cut. Im unclear why all the effort into removing quarter panels, seems like a waste of time. Dont get in the habbit of running one tool at a time. If one FF is spreading a door off, the other should be prepping the roof and cutting hinges. When the spreader passes the C pillar, give a squeeze, so the cutter can get it in one go. When cutting the lower A pillar, position the tool perpendicular to the vehicle, this will reduce the likelyhood of the tool rolling into the seat... the PT will appreciate it. Learn to "see" through all the HVAC garbage in the center console. If you have a basic idea what the anatomy is, you can blow right through it with the spreaders, grab the HVAC subframe, and push all of it to the nose of the vehicle. You only need to displace a dash a few inches, get in the habit of using the spreaders on one side and the ram on the other (non egress side if one PT)... this will double the force going into the dash and help you overcome stronger transverse columns.
You and I have very different definitions of 8 minutes, but I loved the video.
He explains the entire process step by step, then at the end does it live speed with a partner and completes it all within 8 min.
@@brycelewis6089 But it's not really reflective of a real time incident. He is just using an undamaged car and we all know when you turn up things are not all nice and easy and straightforward. For a start you dont just go round smashing glass and punching it in with your gloved hand and showering the casualties with glass and there are numerous things missing from what you would normally put in place at a live incident.
Great job. Very detailed explanations and showing each step.
Never use your gloved hand to clear the glass, always use the peel and reveal tool. If you use your glove it gets full of glass shards then when use wipe sweat away you end up cutting yourself. You dont need to break all the glass. Any door that can open you can drop the glass down. We actually use Pack ex which is like cling film which is put over all windows so no glass has to be broken unless you need access.
That’s a good point about the glass shards in the gloves…….. Ive learned that the hard way.
NEVER wipe your face or any skin with gloved hands for many reasons. Chemicals, glass, other contaminants, etc. Even working on my car I use my sleeve or a towel. NEVER gloves.
Great Job. I really enjoyed watching this video. I love efficiency and I feel you have definitely hit the mark. Extrication can be very tricky and not all extrication jobs are the same. I live in South Florida and we perform extrication on a regular basis. I have taken some of this and gone over with my crew. Thank you.
Like how you walked through and explained then demonstrated. Great training thanks
I’ll never need to know any of this but it’s fascinating and he’s good at presenting
We are taught not to use our gloves to clear the glass. We use a tool or similar. Trying to eliminate cuts and glass stuck to your gloves.
Awesome video guys!!
Good job.
Awesome vid guys.......am just a rookie trying to lesrn more
thanks really helpfull
What a great teacher!
But why take the fenders of to spread the hinges instead of cutting them with the door open (provided it opens but it seems to be frequent on modern cars, which was your topic)?
So why the high c-post cuts, just curious. Thanks
What is that mini e spreader called? I want one.
civilian here - what's the importance of peel reveal thing and is the reason for popping the tires only to prevent any sort of movement?
1. peel and reveal----you are looking for air bag cylinders, you don't want to cut on and watch it go off or flying, 2. popping tires --once you put your step chocks in place, popping the tires settles the car on to the chocks creating stability.
@@jimpinder6385 thank you!!
Why were the step chocks put in steps down? We always use them step up. I’d love a explanation
If you put them in step up, you can only slide them in up to a certain height before the next step is too high. This will probably leave a gap, as opposed to the smooth side up it will always go in and fill the void completely. Additionally, if you're using the step side up and the load shifts, it could drop down to the next step. That's a lot of force moving. It can't drop down to the next step if the steps are facing the ground, it can only slide down the smooth side, which is less likely to happen.
@@theflyingboxcar4804 thanks. Was wondering as well. So why steps instead of a smooth side in the first place?
For undulating surfaces that might not be as smooth as the asphalt
What kind of marker did you use to make the marks?
Yes I have been wanting to know the same.... DId you ever figure it out?
Liquid chalk markers.
Please use ear protection when popping tires
Is this how I remove the heater core from my car?
Yes, you may also have to roll the car on the top and bore a large hole through the floor in a process called tunneling.
Hi. I’m new this. Just wondering the purpose of cutting the seat belts. Thx
Sorry it took 2 years to have someone answer.
You only need to cut the seat belts of the seats with occupants. By cutting the seat belt you don't have to lean over the patient to try to unclip it.
Also some vehicles have locking pins that prevent the seat belt from being unclipped like normal in the event of an collision.
@@RAN00777not true. You need to cut the seatbelts if you plan to remove the roof. Regardless of the occupants. This is because the top seat belt anchors to the B and C posts and if you don’t cut them, when you go to remove the roof, the seatbelts will still be attached to the upper posts on the roof and get hung up.
Why cut in the middle of the C-post? I've always seen people cut high up on the b-post and as low as possible A and C posts
Not to jump in on his answer, however Every A post is reinforced with multiple layers of metal and or solid bars such a boron in the very bottom of it. High on the b post is normally to skip the seat belt attachment, C post last one is normally wider at bottom so more cuts lower you go.
what is meant by 8 minutes?
The battery terminals should be cut 1st to avoid a fire from starting .you should also stand clear when cutting or spreading.
why take the hood off?
I’m having a hard time understanding why so many moves for such little work that needs to be done
Laddie, that's a wee little thing not half the size of a proper Halligan tool!
Holy hell that o tool is slow.
1. Never push the glass in. Bad habit to get into, All your doing to putting glass into the patient compartment or worse into the patient's open wounds.
2. Use a tool to clear the glass not your hand.
3. You don't need to take every window. Take what you need to get the job done and move on.
4. make as little cuts as possible. The more you cut the more time you spend. You have 20 minutes get at it.
In training its better too push in so you have less clean up on your training area like my department does it on grass so less glass in the grass is better I feel that then taking out all the windows in repetitive with everyone of then is good for training getting used too breaking them etc and weve never had an issue with pushing the glass with our hands and some times using the tool during training as much as possible whether its an extra cut etc is once again just becoming familiar with the tool
@@molassesflash Agree, We do it as well becaue we are on a gravel lot. Still is a bad habit and that should of been mentioned.
whats with all the glas inside the car? Why not use folie and keep the glass out of the car...
What's folie? if the pt is covered properly, glass in the car doesn't matter.
Great coordinated efforts in extrication. I like the systematic approach to a vehicle. The one suggestion I would make as a Student view, lose the chew. It's distracting when you speak.
That cutter needs improvement. Takes way too long to cut this pillars.
This guy should come to Australia to learn some techniques and safety
WTH is that fuzzy patch under your bottom lip?!!
NNO NO NO
I only clicked on the video to comment how the title says 8 minutes, yet the video is over 40 minutes long smh either the title is a lie or there's too much talking and not enough action.
He explains the entire process step by step, then at the end does it live speed with a partner and completes it all within 8 min.
🤣🤣🤣
You should have watched it.
No Forget everything you just watched & heard, When you get hired with a big city fire department especially Philadelphia where I’ve worked for the last 34 years we don’t have time for all this book work! We roll up stab a tire with a knife, start cutting , spreading and ramming! Get the patient to the hospital ASAP. I’ve worked R-1 Squad 72 and Squad 47 I mastered vehicle rescue by the time I was 24 and became a Penn-Dot instructor by 26 when I was promoted. This is a joke, if we took all this time our fatality rate would be 98%!
Jesus, get over yourself