Since I don't own a precision machinist's level, I have used the following trick to get precise level on my slates. Once the beeswax process is finished and the table is more or less level, I place a string along the length of the table. I then slowly roll one of the balls along a path parallel to the string. If the ball veers off course, then the slates need adjustment. Repeat this process in all directions until the ball rolls true. A carpenter's level will get you close, but won't show the fine details that a ball will show. If you don't want to use one of your good balls on the bare slate, use a cheap ball that you can buy off an auction site.
Glad the video was helpful for you :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Awesome video! I paid $200 for a guy to level mine incorrectly so now I have to redo it myself. Sagging in the middle like this one. You gave me some confidence to tackle this job the correct way! Lesson learned! Wish I saw this sooner
Really glad that you found the video useful and we were able to help out. Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon links in the Video Description! 2) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 3) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel! 4) Donations both needed and welcome! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips! 5) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you, glad to hear that you found the video entertaining and useful! 🙂 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Yeah, after watching this I'm sad about my installation. No glue, no wax, I can feel the solid line of my slate. I have to give it a try myself, because I'm not having them come back out.
I am so thankful for this video! We inherited a pool table for our basement and I only have it to the point to put the slate on and had no clue how to do it. I know feel extremely confident on assembly and leveling of our slate pieces. Thank you for sharing this!
That's great to hear, and best of luck with your installation! Thank you for your support! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Good tip for stripped out screw holes that I've used for pinball and general repairs. Wood glue and bbq skewers or toothpicks. Fill the hole and snap them off flat then sand if needed once dry. You can use the same hardware when finished.
Yes, good tip! I've seen this also done 'dry' just by inserting a toothpick or similar as packing to fill the hole and get the screw to bite, essentially 'packing out' the hole, but with the wood glue that would be a far better way. Provided you have the time to let the glue dry of course :-)
Bought a table and your videos thank you very informative easy to follow played on TV as I reassembled it and it had markings making it easy to center… my basement slab not so level so spent time leveling framing before slabs then center. Center slab rest was dead simple … had a bit of trouble finding beeswax locally so did the amazon search … recovered and marked using your videos table is level, plumb and square beautiful! Thank you!!!
Excellent stuff! Glad we were able to assist you with your installation, and thank you for your support 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on RUclips! Thank you for your support!
When we first got our snooker table the setup technician used playing cards as shims for the slate leveling, stating that wooden shims were often of a very soft material and thus had a high chance of compression over time. Thanks for this video, looking forward to resetting it again. 8)
Yes, playing cards can be very useful for shimming up small gaps. It's a tried and tested method. It's a common thought that the wood shims can compress over time, and it is possible, which is why you place extra shims to fill gaps just in case it drops at the shim (as in the video). That said, coming back to tables after 2-3 years you'll 90% of the time find that the woods shims have not compressed and the supporting shims will be as easy to remove as they were to put in. Unless you have movement in the frame or floor of course, but that's a whole other issue!! Best of luck with your install, hope it goes well for you! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thanks for this video , i was pretty confident in picking up my first pool table and doing it all myself as i am a millwright but this made it just that much easier ! Stoked to pick up a nice table soon when i have the money
Awesome, glad we could be of help - and best of luck with your installation - hope it goes well! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
He visto miles de videos de como armar las mesas y te puedo asegurar qué este es el mejor sobre todo lo que explicas en el min 22 en adelante nadie lo ha explicado. Te felicito por tus aportes muchas gracias saludos desde Venezuela 🇻🇪
Man I just ran across your video and wow I just got the exact same table and had to level the slates. What great videos gave you a sub keep up the great work so glad I found your channel. Be safe
That's awesome! It's a great table, we hope you enjoy it and that your install went smoothly! 🙂 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad we could help! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you, glad you are enjoying our video's :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad we could help 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on RUclips! Thank you for your support!
Thank you, glad we could help 🙂 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad that the video was helpful for you, and best of luck for the future! 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on RUclips! Thank you for your support!
Very interesting and educational for me as a billiard club owner. Well done and thank you so much. P.S if you come to Cape Town SA then give us a shout at Sessions Billiard Club;)
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video :-) Yes, many of the modern top-branded tables now come with great levelling systems for the slates built into the frame to make the process much quicker and easier, and it's awesome when they do!!! However, for the majority of used tables out there, and also many modern tables at the cheaper end of the spectrum, you have to do it the old fashioned way.
Hi, great video as always. I have a question, if there are no markings on the slates to determine the order they should be assembled together, in your opinion does it matter if they are mixed up. Can you still get a flat smooth surface using wedges to level the slates.
Thank you! Yes, the order of the slates is very important. When they are made it is done as one large piece of slate, which is then cut into three sections. And so it is essential that they be placed in the same order they were made. There should be a large semi-circle drawn on to the slate faces, but assuming yours does not (or has worn off) then if you look carefully at the slate you will see grind marks from where the slate was ground flat. The grind marks should look like VERY large semi-circles and be all over all three slates (look very carefully, think BIG marks!). Once you find those you should hopefully be able to see how the slates are intended to fit together. The grind marks should always run in one direction, so those large semi-circle marks should all 'point' in the same direction. Hope that helps 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on RUclips! Thank you for your support!
Thanks for the advice, unfortunately, there are no semi-circle markings, so I had to put the slates up randomly and hope for the best. I noticed a slight step less than a millimetre between the edges on two of the corners using a straight edge. I couldn't see the grind marks initially so I used a lead pencil to etch the slate which just about revealed the direction of the very faint very large diameter grinding marks which indicated the centre slate was probably sitting the wrong way around. I turned the slate in the centre around and now the joint is perfectly flat across the joints. Thanks again much appreciated.
Yes, playing cards can be great for levelling shims because they are so thin and tough. Old school, love it! 👍 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
This seems great, but why wood shims? There are composite door shims that should work better in theory. You did mention it was hard to find shims in your country though.
Yes, I agree with you 100%!!! Wood is the traditional material that is used during levelling, but agree completely that in this day and age there are better materials available. In fact, at 21:04 in this video onwards you will see that we use plastic window shims (flat) between the slate frame and table frame to help ensure that the wooden shims do not compress over time and throw off the level (as wood is far more malleable than plastic (especially over long period of time). If you have angled shims made of compositie materials absolutely use them in place of wooden shims, a nice and more modern solution - I like it! :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@AverageJoesPool I'm a new pre-owned pool table owner. I've been told that I need a machinist level to level the slates correctly. Your video is in direct contradiction of that claim. Does the carpenter's level work well enough? I really don't want to spend $270 for a tool that I'll use maybe twice. Thanks for your video and hopefully response.
Hey there! This particular video is designed for people who want to set up a cheap used table without having to spend hundreds of dollars paying someone to level it for them, or buying expensive equipment they may never use again. Yes, you are correct - the use of a machinist level is the PERFECT tool for levelling pool table slates (this is mentioned in the video). A machinist level is far, far, FAR more accurate than carpenter levels and will definitely give a better overall result. That said, you can get a decent enough result using carpenters levels provided you use decent levels and spend time checking carefully in all directions. It's a subject you can get lost in because when it's down to machinist levels we're in thousandths on an inch, and you can even level out imperfections in the slate face (low spots) because it's so accurate. We've filmed a full guide one how to level using a Machinist Level and it's awaiting editing currently. It's a BIG video as it's a very complex procedure and so it will likely be a few months before it arrives at least. Hope this is of some help! 👍
So am I correct in assuming that you level the frame on its legs FIRST before putting the slate pieces on ? I will be assembling this antique Brunswick billiard table at my daughters house in the unfinished basement. Therefore the floor will most likely be unlevel. I assumed once the table was fully assembled that I could just lift each corner at the legs to level out the playing surface. However I am beginning to see that this would throw the whole slate surface out of level again. Am I correct on that assumption ? Very good video, thank you. Also I have a question regarding your other video on laying the felt / cloth. Is it better to use staples or just use the tacks that originally were installed ? And can the cloth be re-used ? I removed it carefully 5 years ago when I dismantled the table at my fathers place . Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Hey there! I would suggest starting here: ruclips.net/video/mIem08KAPkI/видео.html - this video shows the full process for installing a pool table, and contains links to branch off into more detail on any section you need more info on. Yes, staples are the usual way to attach cloth to the slate framing. And yes cloth can absolutely be reused. That said, it is generally harder to reinstall a used cloth than install a new one as there is zero give as it is already cut to exact size. Hope this helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
I have a Golden West table I bought from a home I sold last year. I am trying to install in my basement. My slate supports are fixed right to the frame. When I dissassembled the only shims I seen were playing cards under the slate itself and on top of the slate support and carboard under the 4 legs. I leveled the frame and even shimmed the legs to get it spot on level. Again this is a reassemble and I marked everything. Am I missing something? I am about to install the slate and have no idea how I would implement your wood shim method. Thanks again for you videos! Really helpful!
Firstly, yes the playing card as levelling shims is an old-school installation trick and used to be very common. So are you saying that your slates have no framing on the underside, but rather the equivalent of those are part of the base frame? If so, I would imagine that the playing cards you found were between the slate and framing on the frame, rather than between the slate frame and base frame as shown in our video? If so, the same approach should be applicable but the shims would be placed directly under the slate inbetween the slate and frame. Hard to say without seeing it, but that would make the most sense. The shims should go back in to the same place you removed the playing card shims. Hope that helps (and makes sense!), unless I've completely misunderstood, lol. Best of luck! :-)
So my next question is, I am getting ready to level the slates and where the joints are it was previously filled and levelled with body compound. I am intending to use wax instead. I have removed almost all of the compound and my question is, will the wax ahere to the small bits of body filler in small chips and dents ? Or will i have to continue using body filler now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you and have a great day.
Yes, the beeswax should adhere to the bondo pretty much as well as it does to slate. However, if you have sizeable chips along the edges where the bondo was removed it may be a little much for beeswax. Likewsise, some tables have screw holes actually on the playing surface, and these are big and so beeswax is generally not good for things like that. Beeswax is great in thin gaps (like slate gaps) as the balls can't really attack it. Imagine a sizeable screw hole which is filled with wax, and a jump shot has the ball land bang in the middle of it (or worse the jump shot is taken with the cue ball on top of that spot). That may not end well, wax will dent, could be popped out etc. Likewise, if you have large chips they could be problematic for beeswax. Hope that makes sense, and best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Watched this video and all your others in preparation to move and assemble a table i bought. The disassembly and moving went ok. Putting it back together.. i have questions. It's a 'vintage select' table (only name i can find) and 3 piece slate. But the slate frame under it is 2 pieces. They screw down to the main frame that has 2 horizontal and 2 vertical crosses that interlock. My question. After the frame is leveled, and i screw the slate from down, then put the slate on... Where do i shim it? Must be right between the slate frame and the slate? I can't see shimming it under the slate frame as you have here because i have a dozen screws holding that on the frame itself...
Hey there! I'm not familiar with this table, and I'm not sure I understand completely... Does the slate have a backing timber? The shims are usually placed between the frame and backing timber. Does your table also have screws within the playing surface? If so, that's ok, those can be screwed down snug once the shims are in. If I've missed the main point of the question please let me know. 👍 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad we could help out! Hope the installation goes well :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
This should be what you need: ruclips.net/video/7OHW7f9v9cM/видео.html - hope it helps! :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Agreed! If you have a machinist level then you should DEFINITELY use it to level your slates. They are quite expensive though to hard to justify if you don't need it for anything other than your single table installation. You can get good results with box levels provided they are decent quality, you take your time, and check and re-check everything carefully. But if you have a machinist level then it's a no brainer to use it for sure!
In that case the levelling process should be the same but your wedges/shims would simply be directly between the slate and frame, rather than between the slate wood and the frame. So levelling it should be the same process. Not having the timber framing on the slate will likely mean you'll have to do the glue method for the cloth as you won't have the timber for the staple process. Hope it goes well, and best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Looking for some advice before building up a second hand full size snooker table, 1 slate (black ball end) has been sanded to a glass finish and very very smooth, the other 4 slate are rough to the touch and are normal, it looks like the owner has filled in lots of score marks in the 1st slate with Bondo and sanded it, with it like glass will this affect that slate when the balls go over it compared to the other four, after being put together
It being smooth should not really affect anything as the 'texture' comes from the cloth, provided that the polish slate is properly finished and flat of course. It would be quite hard to sand it back and keep it within tolerance, but hopefully he's done a good job for you. Best of luck!
Good video, but not convincing that the table is level. All would be fine if indeed the long level used did qualify as a precision straight edge as implied in the video. My question is how straight is the long level, and how do you know how straight it is? You clearly stated that a high sensitivity machinist level is preferred but didn't use one or demonstrate how you would level the slates with this type level, nor did you demonstrate that the table became level after you finished by taking precision machinist level measurements all around the table and/or by demonstrating no ball roll off from table end to end, side to side, and corner to corner directions. I would greatly appreciate a video that uses a 12 inch high sensitivity machinist level and demonstrates a level condition with it and ball rolls across the table in all general directions.
Thank you! Yes, that is a very good point actually - the levels do need to be actually level. I bought an 8ft level a couple of months back from a decent brand and had to return it as it was not straight. Ideally you should always check your levels when you buy them against something you know is going to be VERY flat, such as a granite worktop or similar. If your levels are not level (or straight!) then the results won't be either. This guide is intended for a basic DIY installation for people who do not want to invest hundreds of dollars into the install. Absolutely, a machinist level is without question the best way to level pretty much anything - but they are costly. You can get decent results with standard levels but it does take time, but it's low cost as many people likely have levels already. If you've gone out and bought a cheap table for $500, many people won't want to spend another $500 to have it professionally installed, nor even an extra $200 for a machinist level they'll use once. That all said, we will soon be doing a slightly more advanced version of this video using, exactly as you mentioned, a machinist level (which just happens to be 12"). So that may be of interest to you when it comes out.
@@AverageJoesPool Thanks very much for your response. I concur and look forward to your more advanced video of leveling the slates with a 12" machinist level. Having a precision straight edge the length of the table to use along with precision feeler gages and the machinist level to level slates would be ideal. I would really like to see that combination for leveling. But the final test of table level is with ball roll with no roll off from side to side, end to end and diagonal corner to corner. I would really like to see that accomplished with ball roll tested on the bare slates and then on the covered slates, all shown in your video.
Hello friend congratulations for this informative video. A question? What is the length x width of the blackboard or playing area? And the wood that forms the railings or bands, what is the length x width? I hope you read my comment greetings from Honduras.
Hey there! It depends on the size of the table. This one is Tournament size (USA) and so is a 9 foot table, which is 9x4.5 feet. 9 feet tables have a playing surface (between the rails) of 100x50 inches. The slate itself it 9 feet by 4.5 feet (actually a little under usually due to grinding/planing/finishing of the slate. But tables also come in other sizes, most commonly (for Pool) are 9, 8 and 7 foot tables (and 6 foot in the UK). Snooker tables are 12 feet by comparison. Hope that's of some help! :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Why aren't pool tables built from a single slate? This seems like a really grueling process for something that could be fixed with a larger slate (FYI I have no background in DIY)
One big slate would be insanely heavy. Almost too heavy to move and not worth the effort for the average person. Although this process is monotonous it’s actually easier than using one big slate
Yes, it's 100% down to weight. Even 1/3 of a slate is VERY heavy. Single piece slates do indeed exist (used fairly commonly by companies such as Diamond) but the weight is ridiculous! So they mine the slate and grind it down to spec, and then towards the end of the process they cut it into three sections to make is easier to move and install. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too! 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our RUclips channel. 3) Please Like our video's on RUclips (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
I absolutely hate my table for releveling. It’s an American heritage table and the mdf it’s laying on it not in 3 pieces to match slate. So I have to stack shims in between the mdf and slate. Which if you know anything about mdf is that that stuff sucks for any rigidity and strength. So when I add shims it just warps the mdf . It truly is the most annoying process
Yes, MDF is not the best choice for a base frame for sure. You may, depending on the design, be able to add additional supports into the inside face of the frame using wood glue and screws with a good thick ply, this would help strengthen the MDF and give a more solid frame. Just a thought, it may not be possible/hard with the frame design, but might be worth some investigation. Best of luck!
Hello brother, is there any chance to make my pool table pockets bigger , like 1 cm bigger , too tight and somtimes rejects the balls out . Please advice, thx alot
Yes, technically it is possible but it may not be easy! You can trim the rail length down on the angled ends (but not where the pocket frames attach, i.e. the flat part) which would make the pocket opening larger, but could affect how the pockets fit against the rails. It's not something to get into lightly and needs some serious consideration beforehand. Many players end up wanting slightly smaller 'pro cut' pockets as they improve their game, so you may want larger pockets currently to make potting easier, but in the future you may regret it. Have a good think, it's probably not worth the hassle or expense TBH!! Best of luck!
The narrow pockets can be challenging but honestly it's better. Work on your aim and hitting them softer. You might also be able to find smaller balls.
I have a 6/8 gap on one side. It's in my garage. Do you recommend I shim the leg at the low point first before going to the slate? My screw won't fasten properly if shimmed from the slate. Garage has 4 slabs of cement the table sits on.
I'm not sure I completely understand your set up, but yes the frame should always be levelled up before fitting the slates. Take a look at our video on how to level the frame: ruclips.net/video/HyXCsk8_n_A/видео.html - hope that helps!
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Since I don't own a precision machinist's level, I have used the following trick to get precise level on my slates. Once the beeswax process is finished and the table is more or less level, I place a string along the length of the table. I then slowly roll one of the balls along a path parallel to the string. If the ball veers off course, then the slates need adjustment. Repeat this process in all directions until the ball rolls true. A carpenter's level will get you close, but won't show the fine details that a ball will show. If you don't want to use one of your good balls on the bare slate, use a cheap ball that you can buy off an auction site.
For sure
You are a gift to humanity. Thank you for this video.
Glad the video was helpful for you :-)
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Awesome video! I paid $200 for a guy to level mine incorrectly so now I have to redo it myself. Sagging in the middle like this one. You gave me some confidence to tackle this job the correct way! Lesson learned! Wish I saw this sooner
Really glad that you found the video useful and we were able to help out. Best of luck!
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Wish I had somebody install my table that cares as much as this guy! A true legend this man. Great video!! Thx mate 👍🏻
Thank you, glad to hear that you found the video entertaining and useful! 🙂
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Yeah, after watching this I'm sad about my installation. No glue, no wax, I can feel the solid line of my slate. I have to give it a try myself, because I'm not having them come back out.
Same. Paid 1,000$ to have it moved. Only to redo it
I am so thankful for this video! We inherited a pool table for our basement and I only have it to the point to put the slate on and had no clue how to do it. I know feel extremely confident on assembly and leveling of our slate pieces. Thank you for sharing this!
That's great to hear, and best of luck with your installation! Thank you for your support!
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Thanks for this series!
I am about to assemble my pool table
Much appreciated!! Hope your install goes well!
Good tip for stripped out screw holes that I've used for pinball and general repairs. Wood glue and bbq skewers or toothpicks. Fill the hole and snap them off flat then sand if needed once dry. You can use the same hardware when finished.
Yes, good tip! I've seen this also done 'dry' just by inserting a toothpick or similar as packing to fill the hole and get the screw to bite, essentially 'packing out' the hole, but with the wood glue that would be a far better way. Provided you have the time to let the glue dry of course :-)
Bought a table and your videos thank you very informative easy to follow played on TV as I reassembled it and it had markings making it easy to center… my basement slab not so level so spent time leveling framing before slabs then center. Center slab rest was dead simple … had a bit of trouble finding beeswax locally so did the amazon search … recovered and marked using your videos table is level, plumb and square beautiful! Thank you!!!
Excellent stuff! Glad we were able to assist you with your installation, and thank you for your support 👍
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When we first got our snooker table the setup technician used playing cards as shims for the slate leveling, stating that wooden shims were often of a very soft material and thus had a high chance of compression over time. Thanks for this video, looking forward to resetting it again. 8)
Yes, playing cards can be very useful for shimming up small gaps. It's a tried and tested method. It's a common thought that the wood shims can compress over time, and it is possible, which is why you place extra shims to fill gaps just in case it drops at the shim (as in the video). That said, coming back to tables after 2-3 years you'll 90% of the time find that the woods shims have not compressed and the supporting shims will be as easy to remove as they were to put in. Unless you have movement in the frame or floor of course, but that's a whole other issue!! Best of luck with your install, hope it goes well for you!
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Thank you for the videos, best ones I’ve seen on the subject!
Thank you for saying so, we appreciae your support :-)
Thanks for this video , i was pretty confident in picking up my first pool table and doing it all myself as i am a millwright but this made it just that much easier ! Stoked to pick up a nice table soon when i have the money
Awesome, glad we could be of help - and best of luck with your installation - hope it goes well!
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A professionals professional thank you for all of the heads up information
Glad we could help, thank you!
This is an excellent instructional video all around. Thanks fellas.
Glad it was helpful!
He visto miles de videos de como armar las mesas y te puedo asegurar qué este es el mejor sobre todo lo que explicas en el min 22 en adelante nadie lo ha explicado. Te felicito por tus aportes muchas gracias saludos desde Venezuela 🇻🇪
Thank you!
Man I just ran across your video and wow I just got the exact same table and had to level the slates. What great videos gave you a sub keep up the great work so glad I found your channel. Be safe
That's awesome! It's a great table, we hope you enjoy it and that your install went smoothly! 🙂
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This is very useful and helpful.
Glad we could help!
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Great information. Thank you sir. :)
Thank you, glad you are enjoying our video's :-)
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Brilliant, informative and helpful. You certainly know your stuff.
Glad we could help 👍
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Love the always remember to brush your teeth tidbit in the disclaimer.
Thank you :-)
awesome video, nice work guys!
Thank you, glad we could help 🙂
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Thank you for the details.. im looking forward to make DIY billiard for may business..
Glad that the video was helpful for you, and best of luck for the future! 👍
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Very interesting and educational for me as a billiard club owner. Well done and thank you so much.
P.S if you come to Cape Town SA then give us a shout at Sessions Billiard Club;)
Glad you like our video's 👍
Great information- thank you!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Wow that's a mess around. That is why most modern tables have leg levellers and slate levelling bolts! Nice vid, thanks.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video :-) Yes, many of the modern top-branded tables now come with great levelling systems for the slates built into the frame to make the process much quicker and easier, and it's awesome when they do!!! However, for the majority of used tables out there, and also many modern tables at the cheaper end of the spectrum, you have to do it the old fashioned way.
Hi, great video as always. I have a question, if there are no markings on the slates to determine the order they should be assembled together, in your opinion does it matter if they are mixed up. Can you still get a flat smooth surface using wedges to level the slates.
Thank you! Yes, the order of the slates is very important. When they are made it is done as one large piece of slate, which is then cut into three sections. And so it is essential that they be placed in the same order they were made. There should be a large semi-circle drawn on to the slate faces, but assuming yours does not (or has worn off) then if you look carefully at the slate you will see grind marks from where the slate was ground flat. The grind marks should look like VERY large semi-circles and be all over all three slates (look very carefully, think BIG marks!). Once you find those you should hopefully be able to see how the slates are intended to fit together. The grind marks should always run in one direction, so those large semi-circle marks should all 'point' in the same direction. Hope that helps 👍
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Thanks for the advice, unfortunately, there are no semi-circle markings, so I had to put the slates up randomly and hope for the best. I noticed a slight step less than a millimetre between the edges on two of the corners using a straight edge. I couldn't see the grind marks initially so I used a lead pencil to etch the slate which just about revealed the direction of the very faint very large diameter grinding marks which indicated the centre slate was probably sitting the wrong way around. I turned the slate in the centre around and now the joint is perfectly flat across the joints. Thanks again much appreciated.
I've always used a deck of cards.
Yes, playing cards can be great for levelling shims because they are so thin and tough. Old school, love it! 👍
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This seems great, but why wood shims? There are composite door shims that should work better in theory. You did mention it was hard to find shims in your country though.
Yes, I agree with you 100%!!! Wood is the traditional material that is used during levelling, but agree completely that in this day and age there are better materials available. In fact, at 21:04 in this video onwards you will see that we use plastic window shims (flat) between the slate frame and table frame to help ensure that the wooden shims do not compress over time and throw off the level (as wood is far more malleable than plastic (especially over long period of time). If you have angled shims made of compositie materials absolutely use them in place of wooden shims, a nice and more modern solution - I like it! :-)
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@AverageJoesPool I'm a new pre-owned pool table owner. I've been told that I need a machinist level to level the slates correctly. Your video is in direct contradiction of that claim. Does the carpenter's level work well enough? I really don't want to spend $270 for a tool that I'll use maybe twice. Thanks for your video and hopefully response.
Hey there! This particular video is designed for people who want to set up a cheap used table without having to spend hundreds of dollars paying someone to level it for them, or buying expensive equipment they may never use again. Yes, you are correct - the use of a machinist level is the PERFECT tool for levelling pool table slates (this is mentioned in the video). A machinist level is far, far, FAR more accurate than carpenter levels and will definitely give a better overall result. That said, you can get a decent enough result using carpenters levels provided you use decent levels and spend time checking carefully in all directions. It's a subject you can get lost in because when it's down to machinist levels we're in thousandths on an inch, and you can even level out imperfections in the slate face (low spots) because it's so accurate. We've filmed a full guide one how to level using a Machinist Level and it's awaiting editing currently. It's a BIG video as it's a very complex procedure and so it will likely be a few months before it arrives at least. Hope this is of some help! 👍
@@AverageJoesPool Wow! I didn't expect a reply so soon. Thank you for the clarification.
I really appreciate your videos!
So am I correct in assuming that you level the frame on its legs FIRST before putting the slate pieces on ? I will be assembling this antique Brunswick billiard table at my daughters house in the unfinished basement. Therefore the floor will most likely be unlevel. I assumed once the table was fully assembled that I could just lift each corner at the legs to level out the playing surface. However I am beginning to see that this would throw the whole slate surface out of level again. Am I correct on that assumption ? Very good video, thank you. Also I have a question regarding your other video on laying the felt / cloth. Is it better to use staples or just use the tacks that originally were installed ? And can the cloth be re-used ? I removed it carefully 5 years ago when I dismantled the table at my fathers place . Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Hey there! I would suggest starting here: ruclips.net/video/mIem08KAPkI/видео.html - this video shows the full process for installing a pool table, and contains links to branch off into more detail on any section you need more info on. Yes, staples are the usual way to attach cloth to the slate framing. And yes cloth can absolutely be reused. That said, it is generally harder to reinstall a used cloth than install a new one as there is zero give as it is already cut to exact size. Hope this helps!
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I have a Golden West table I bought from a home I sold last year. I am trying to install in my basement. My slate supports are fixed right to the frame. When I dissassembled the only shims I seen were playing cards under the slate itself and on top of the slate support and carboard under the 4 legs. I leveled the frame and even shimmed the legs to get it spot on level. Again this is a reassemble and I marked everything. Am I missing something? I am about to install the slate and have no idea how I would implement your wood shim method. Thanks again for you videos! Really helpful!
Firstly, yes the playing card as levelling shims is an old-school installation trick and used to be very common. So are you saying that your slates have no framing on the underside, but rather the equivalent of those are part of the base frame? If so, I would imagine that the playing cards you found were between the slate and framing on the frame, rather than between the slate frame and base frame as shown in our video? If so, the same approach should be applicable but the shims would be placed directly under the slate inbetween the slate and frame. Hard to say without seeing it, but that would make the most sense. The shims should go back in to the same place you removed the playing card shims. Hope that helps (and makes sense!), unless I've completely misunderstood, lol. Best of luck! :-)
So my next question is, I am getting ready to level the slates and where the joints are it was previously filled and levelled with body compound. I am intending to use wax instead. I have removed almost all of the compound and my question is, will the wax ahere to the small bits of body filler in small chips and dents ? Or will i have to continue using body filler now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you and have a great day.
Yes, the beeswax should adhere to the bondo pretty much as well as it does to slate. However, if you have sizeable chips along the edges where the bondo was removed it may be a little much for beeswax. Likewsise, some tables have screw holes actually on the playing surface, and these are big and so beeswax is generally not good for things like that. Beeswax is great in thin gaps (like slate gaps) as the balls can't really attack it. Imagine a sizeable screw hole which is filled with wax, and a jump shot has the ball land bang in the middle of it (or worse the jump shot is taken with the cue ball on top of that spot). That may not end well, wax will dent, could be popped out etc. Likewise, if you have large chips they could be problematic for beeswax. Hope that makes sense, and best of luck!
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Watched this video and all your others in preparation to move and assemble a table i bought. The disassembly and moving went ok. Putting it back together.. i have questions.
It's a 'vintage select' table (only name i can find) and 3 piece slate. But the slate frame under it is 2 pieces. They screw down to the main frame that has 2 horizontal and 2 vertical crosses that interlock.
My question. After the frame is leveled, and i screw the slate from down, then put the slate on... Where do i shim it? Must be right between the slate frame and the slate? I can't see shimming it under the slate frame as you have here because i have a dozen screws holding that on the frame itself...
Hey there! I'm not familiar with this table, and I'm not sure I understand completely... Does the slate have a backing timber? The shims are usually placed between the frame and backing timber. Does your table also have screws within the playing surface? If so, that's ok, those can be screwed down snug once the shims are in. If I've missed the main point of the question please let me know. 👍
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Belo trabalho. Quanto custa um viável desse Grand. Pq eu monto mesa tambem
Thank you!
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Thank you for the incredible insights for leveling a 3 slate table. I'm going to get vex it a shot right now..
Glad we could help out! Hope the installation goes well :-)
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Can you tell me where I can get the protective strip that protects the slate from a rebounding pocketed ball please?
This should be what you need: ruclips.net/video/7OHW7f9v9cM/видео.html - hope it helps! :-)
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@Average Joes Pool perfect, thank you!
Use a machinist leveler far more accurate for the leveling of the Slate also the leveling under the legs of the pool table
Agreed! If you have a machinist level then you should DEFINITELY use it to level your slates. They are quite expensive though to hard to justify if you don't need it for anything other than your single table installation. You can get good results with box levels provided they are decent quality, you take your time, and check and re-check everything carefully. But if you have a machinist level then it's a no brainer to use it for sure!
My table doesn't have the wood underneath the slate. It's making it extra hard to level out. Any advise?
In that case the levelling process should be the same but your wedges/shims would simply be directly between the slate and frame, rather than between the slate wood and the frame. So levelling it should be the same process. Not having the timber framing on the slate will likely mean you'll have to do the glue method for the cloth as you won't have the timber for the staple process. Hope it goes well, and best of luck!
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To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do:
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It doesn't matter if it's wood backing or not leveling the Slate with wood shims in a machinist level before you use glue to put on your felt
Looking for some advice before building up a second hand full size snooker table, 1 slate (black ball end) has been sanded to a glass finish and very very smooth, the other 4 slate are rough to the touch and are normal, it looks like the owner has filled in lots of score marks in the 1st slate with Bondo and sanded it, with it like glass will this affect that slate when the balls go over it compared to the other four, after being put together
It being smooth should not really affect anything as the 'texture' comes from the cloth, provided that the polish slate is properly finished and flat of course. It would be quite hard to sand it back and keep it within tolerance, but hopefully he's done a good job for you. Best of luck!
Good video, but not convincing that the table is level. All would be fine if indeed the long level used did qualify as a precision straight edge as implied in the video. My question is how straight is the long level, and how do you know how straight it is? You clearly stated that a high sensitivity machinist level is preferred but didn't use one or demonstrate how you would level the slates with this type level, nor did you demonstrate that the table became level after you finished by taking precision machinist level measurements all around the table and/or by demonstrating no ball roll off from table end to end, side to side, and corner to corner directions. I would greatly appreciate a video that uses a 12 inch high sensitivity machinist level and demonstrates a level condition with it and ball rolls across the table in all general directions.
Thank you! Yes, that is a very good point actually - the levels do need to be actually level. I bought an 8ft level a couple of months back from a decent brand and had to return it as it was not straight. Ideally you should always check your levels when you buy them against something you know is going to be VERY flat, such as a granite worktop or similar. If your levels are not level (or straight!) then the results won't be either. This guide is intended for a basic DIY installation for people who do not want to invest hundreds of dollars into the install. Absolutely, a machinist level is without question the best way to level pretty much anything - but they are costly. You can get decent results with standard levels but it does take time, but it's low cost as many people likely have levels already. If you've gone out and bought a cheap table for $500, many people won't want to spend another $500 to have it professionally installed, nor even an extra $200 for a machinist level they'll use once. That all said, we will soon be doing a slightly more advanced version of this video using, exactly as you mentioned, a machinist level (which just happens to be 12"). So that may be of interest to you when it comes out.
@@AverageJoesPool Thanks very much for your response. I concur and look forward to your more advanced video of leveling the slates with a 12" machinist level. Having a precision straight edge the length of the table to use along with precision feeler gages and the machinist level to level slates would be ideal. I would really like to see that combination for leveling. But the final test of table level is with ball roll with no roll off from side to side, end to end and diagonal corner to corner. I would really like to see that accomplished with ball roll tested on the bare slates and then on the covered slates, all shown in your video.
Hello friend congratulations for this informative video. A question? What is the length x width of the blackboard or playing area? And the wood that forms the railings or bands, what is the length x width? I hope you read my comment greetings from Honduras.
Hey there! It depends on the size of the table. This one is Tournament size (USA) and so is a 9 foot table, which is 9x4.5 feet. 9 feet tables have a playing surface (between the rails) of 100x50 inches. The slate itself it 9 feet by 4.5 feet (actually a little under usually due to grinding/planing/finishing of the slate. But tables also come in other sizes, most commonly (for Pool) are 9, 8 and 7 foot tables (and 6 foot in the UK). Snooker tables are 12 feet by comparison. Hope that's of some help! :-)
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To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do:
1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Average Joes Pool without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/thanksfixsavers - or alternatively you can click the SUPER THANKS icon under the video on RUclips and donate that way too!
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Why aren't pool tables built from a single slate? This seems like a really grueling process for something that could be fixed with a larger slate (FYI I have no background in DIY)
One big slate would be insanely heavy. Almost too heavy to move and not worth the effort for the average person. Although this process is monotonous it’s actually easier than using one big slate
Yes, it's 100% down to weight. Even 1/3 of a slate is VERY heavy. Single piece slates do indeed exist (used fairly commonly by companies such as Diamond) but the weight is ridiculous! So they mine the slate and grind it down to spec, and then towards the end of the process they cut it into three sections to make is easier to move and install. Hope that helps!
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To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do:
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I absolutely hate my table for releveling. It’s an American heritage table and the mdf it’s laying on it not in 3 pieces to match slate. So I have to stack shims in between the mdf and slate. Which if you know anything about mdf is that that stuff sucks for any rigidity and strength. So when I add shims it just warps the mdf . It truly is the most annoying process
Yes, MDF is not the best choice for a base frame for sure. You may, depending on the design, be able to add additional supports into the inside face of the frame using wood glue and screws with a good thick ply, this would help strengthen the MDF and give a more solid frame. Just a thought, it may not be possible/hard with the frame design, but might be worth some investigation. Best of luck!
Hello brother, is there any chance to make my pool table pockets bigger , like 1 cm bigger , too tight and somtimes rejects the balls out . Please advice, thx alot
Yes, technically it is possible but it may not be easy! You can trim the rail length down on the angled ends (but not where the pocket frames attach, i.e. the flat part) which would make the pocket opening larger, but could affect how the pockets fit against the rails. It's not something to get into lightly and needs some serious consideration beforehand. Many players end up wanting slightly smaller 'pro cut' pockets as they improve their game, so you may want larger pockets currently to make potting easier, but in the future you may regret it. Have a good think, it's probably not worth the hassle or expense TBH!! Best of luck!
The narrow pockets can be challenging but honestly it's better. Work on your aim and hitting them softer. You might also be able to find smaller balls.
I have a 6/8 gap on one side. It's in my garage. Do you recommend I shim the leg at the low point first before going to the slate? My screw won't fasten properly if shimmed from the slate. Garage has 4 slabs of cement the table sits on.
I'm not sure I completely understand your set up, but yes the frame should always be levelled up before fitting the slates. Take a look at our video on how to level the frame: ruclips.net/video/HyXCsk8_n_A/видео.html - hope that helps!
Cloth and a broom