Real Artisans Behind Haute Couture | Behind the Seams ★ Glam.com
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
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For most designers it's in the details, but just how do those intricate embellishments come to be? Here is a rare glimpse inside Paris' iconic Maison Hurel, which has been creating embroideries for haute couture clients like Chanel and Valentino since 1870. Legendary design houses, including Saint Laurent, J. Mendel, Jason Wu, Gucci, Tom Ford, and Roberto Cavalli have been calling on Hurel to enhance their collections with unique fabrics, exquisite stitching, and dazzling beadwork.
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People wonder why some of these designers sell their clothing at outrageous prices.
Eg. "Why is that dress so expensive? It's not even that pretty"
Sometimes, it may not be that "pretty" but it's a lot of work. Haute couture takes a lot of time. You have to get the right fabrics, some fabrics are extremely expensive, and when you can get certain fabrics, you make them, When you can't get certain fabrics with certain designs on them, you have people like them, paying close attention to every detail of their work and that my dear, takes a lot of time and effort to master that art!
Ummm, people usually complain about the prices of the ready to wear collections, as the haute couture pieces don't get listed or priced unless you personally ask. Most high fashion brands care to use good quality materials + a lot of them get their garments made in Europe and not in Asia/Africa, which makes it much more expensive. However, we must not forget all the big names have a name in the industry and just by having a brand slapped onto the garment the price is marked up much higher than it should be.
It's much better to pay for a jacket with an interesting cut and design than, for example, a blank t-shirt by a big brand, because at certain point the quality can't increase anymore whatever the price rises.
Venasa Tho
If you go to India you will find exquisite hand embroidery for very low prices even in retail shops. Of course you will say that people there exploit human labour and maybe you will be right. BUT once I was visiting an embroidery workshop and when they heard my nationality, they showed me the work they were doing for a very famous Italian designer house. That's how I learned that some of them outsource the embroidery to Indian workshops. But they charge their clients the same as if they were paying Italian embroiderers who would cost ten times as much, with social security and all.
The problem is that in Western countries not many people take the trouble to learn this sort of artistic manual arts, and this gives the freedom to clever sellers to sell such items at overblown prices. I remember Rosetta Getty's "Mixed Media Granny Square Cardigan". Any beginner crocheter can make it, yet it was sold for €2.598. But if I made it and sold it, nobody would give me more than 100 plus materials, say 200 euros.
irmar you are so right in this.
Did you know that there are approximately only 2000 people in the world that can afford to buy haute couture (regularly)?
THIS is why haute couture costs real money. Real talent. Real art. Real craftsmanship.
They should get paid as much as the models.
They should get paid more than the models.
Catherine Anne I'm in agreement.
+evimlck Actually most models don't get paid for gigs, so that wouldn't be a good comparison. Also models can only work for so long. The apparel techs and stitchers in these studios/ateliers make more money per year than most folks with college degrees and corporate field jobs. They are not working for minimum wage. They also have job security as most work in the Ateliers until or well past retirement age (as long as their eyes hold out). You can't compare modeling to this...
RunWayUnderground thank you. That was informative. By the way, my hobby is collecting fashion dolls, from Silkstone Barbie to 16" fashion dolls & i have a drawer full of sequins & beads. I design evening gowns & cocktail dresses for them.
WELL SAID THANK YOU
I can't wait to be a fashion designer.
jiminspark I wish you the best!
blossominnie Armyyy 😂💖 also wishing you the best as a fashion designer 🙂
@hanlei Neither can I. We could work together someday lol😂😁
11zedtuuKnitedq
@SassyBug fashion designing takes 4 years ,so may b a year after would do
"House of Lesage" is a small book on the icon of French embroidery. After looking at the photos I remember thinking I could not believe human hands made something that exquisite.
Do you know the thread brand catalog and threads boxed that were being used?
lol are you seriously trying to learn trade secrets from a random comment on RUclips @@EbonyEnnis-ck9sd
The attention to detail is beyond belief. I would like to see some of these videos with someone explaining the process. Just wonderful.
This is so amazing. I have major respect for people who do this for a living.
Follow your heart, your dreams and your passion.
These artisans deserve a ton of appreciation and high pay. They are amazing behind the scenes! 🥰
My eyes and heart are happy seeing this video..
I totally understand your comment! It was wonderful to watch and I liked the ladies to magic fairies with incredible amazing artistic gifts. Their precise stichwork is truly amazing.
100% right
The embroidery and bead work is absolutely amazing to me!
NOTHING beats hand embroidery, those are some epic people.
My grand grand father was an embroider in france 😊
I'm in love with details, this video was like a breath of fresh air. The work is incredible!
*****
This is really awesome! I am trying not to be like VINoone, in the same clothes from a popular store. But I can only sew sequins using needle. So thats why I would like to ask U a question- do U know what is the name of this tool they use to make an ornament on tulle by using sequins? It would really help me to create something unique :) I am so into it I can look at their job all day long :) Thank YOU GLAM for helping me :)
What is that tool they are using to stitch from only one side of the fabric?!?!?!
Details! Details! Details! I wonder what you have to do to get a job like this!
Anyone know where to begin?
lesage school in paris
+Zaira Jimenez First you have to know how to do the embroidery and work with a tambour needle which is not as easy as they make it look. You can take classes at Atelier Lasage's school in Paris or find programs/studios in the states that do decorative hand work or apprentice with an artisan or designer. We teach in our Boot Camp program in Austin then select those with an eye/hand for the work to train further.
You can go to Lesage in Paris or Hand & Lock in London, also Hand & Lock comes to the U.S. to teach once a year, they were just in Williamsburg, VA and San Francisco, CA.
Details.... And teamwork
@@ivyalston7277 Thank you so much
Artisans are the heart of most industries to be admired . Admirable insight into their atelier
So beautiful! They are true artists!
Mary Morandin
thank you !
Lo único que puedo decir Bravo 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍bellísimo trabajo es una obra de arte , felicidades y mi admiración , 🤗🇲🇽💐
wow!! now I understand why the prices! they are artists!
keep in mind the brand name. that rise the price higher than what it's supposed to cost
+dajapa that's true! didn't think about it
+Vic Rod yep :) btw i love your pic, those colours... bliss
dajapa .
The details of lacemaking are a creative work of engineering. It entails a specific plan that results in a work of unmatchable artistry. I appreciate this video.
The video has hit my heart as I look forward to seeing more thanks❤😍👌
how can i learn to do this beautiful art
learn the tools they use , and research for articles tutorials youtubers =)
I saw a step by step tutorial on RUclips once it seems simple enough.
rell whye I know this art.its call hand embroidery 9833453340 my mob number Mr nayab
You can take classes and buy kits and tools from Lacis in San Francisco and Lesage in Paris.
@@OnDasherOnDancer thank you very much
This is really educative to people who are interested in knowing more about fashion.... Soo inspirational
Trabalho perfeito!
Mãos tão talentosas e criativas... amei. Parabéns à todas!
Good work because I am designer
Mis felicitaciones es organizada y con un talento extraordinario , gracias por mostrarnos su arte porque eso es , que Dios la Bendiga siempre, saludos desde Cd. de México 🇲🇽 👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏🤗
It is a true art. I am a dress designer and most of the work is done by hand. Then people wonder why it takes so long.
Really amazing beauty and culture we have in this world..beautiful
I want to know which designer/label requested all this! These are the details I love to see when the couture show images get online. My favorite couture looks are those that appear run-of-the-mill, simple, or diminutive from a distance but show the artistry in the close-up.
Dear Designers...you would be severely limited without the artisans of the ateliers! Such painstaking work is absolutely amazing. An art in and of itself. The design comes to life through the artisans hands! Thank you Mode for bringing such magnificence into public view.
I would like to know what the name of the machine is that they are using at 1:10 of the video.
sorry if I reply pretty late, it's a "piqueuse" there is no translation at all, I am sorry, it's like the tip of a needle, wich jabs very fast, usually on 2 layers of paper. Then we use loose pigments with a kind of a brush to introduce the pigments into the tiny holes the machine made. And ... that's it the pattern of the embroidery is printed on your fabric.
@@marinelevaillant49 Do you know what type of needle they are using at 1:32?
Darien Schell yes of course (it’s my job) it’s actually a hook (a very thin one) it’s called “crochet de luneville” in french it’s a very old french method for embroidery. It’s approximately the same technique as an Indian hook called “haari” there is a very few schools in France that teaches you this technique but you can buy one very easily. If you want to start I would recommend you using a thick hook then after few month of practice switch with a thinner one 😊
@@marinelevaillant49 Thank you so much!
Darien Schell you’re welcome 😊
I’d love to see a long documentary on these artists and even a tutorial
Research Tambour Embroidery
Tambour Embroidery is tremendous and much of the talent and work is produced in India, China, Turkey, Eastern regions of Europe... these Couture Houses are Amazing! But so are the artisans that labor in foreign countries without recognition.
es hermoso y verdaderamente arte lo que hacen con la tela me encanta
I would have liked a longer viewing and someone explaining what all the techniques were. But absolutely fabulous work
I respect their hard work which is hidden from ppl eyes still coz they purchase cloths to see how glam its looking but forgot to think how much hardwork an artist did on that.
I respect all artist patients coz I know we need to keep our patients in such beautiful works.
BRAVO ❤️🌞🥰🌷✨🧚🌷✨🧚🌷✨🧚🌷✨🧚🌷✨🧚🌷✨🧚
What needle do they use?
Love this, the work behind the beauty. This video will be interesting in the future as well. We can see fashion plates of historical clothing, but not actually see how certain things were made, only infer. Here we see the how, but also the great divide show up as the women making the designer details are wearing t-shirts and jeans. Love these videos, please keep them coming.
Wow nenga yellorum yavalavu talent annavanga.onga talent kku nan adimai super 💖💟💖💟💖💟💖💟
Thank you so much for showing us this very small insight to talented artisans.
que lindo gostaria de aprender
can someone please tell me the name of the tool on 1:08? i know its a pricking tool but i cannot find a name for it anywhere on the web, let alone find somewhere that sells them. Please help!
Aari embroidery needle , Indian origin..
It's actually a tambour needle. It consists of the holder which is the wooden part and a special needle. Hope that helps
In India its called Kasab
Hey Mel even I am looking for the same tool can't find anything about it on the internet it appears only the ateliers have these kinda pricking instrument for transferring the designs onto fabric
sumayya shaikh the word in French is piquoir électrique ... but they are very expensive unless you plan on doing extensive embroidery you better off using a hand needle, a dressmaker pin or even your sewing machine (hope i could help)
If they work for "Brands" like dior or chanel, are they getting enough money for the actual work?
Unortunately no.
+Katy Mason Actually yes they absolutely are! Hurel and Lesage and the techs who work in the Chanel and Dior onsite ateliers make very good money. They have to in order to keep them and because there are so few in the world (especially Europe and the states) who can actually do this work so well and efficiently. Only the apprentice stitchers make lower wages because they're still in training. They still make better money than an office and retail jobs. The up side is that you love coming to work every day.
Do you know what kind of netting/mesh is used to make these pieces? I can't find anything non stretch. Just wondering if there is a special name for this material? Tulle doesn't seem right.. thanks in advance!
@@RunWayUnderground Thank you for this information
Looking mighty cute
now i get why those designer pieces cost a fortune
❤🦋❤
這個打樣 的色料..自行 打樣 配色調色..小行量產..這個機械是可以自己作的
可以作到蒸汽/液體染色...大概是類似 飯店用的大型咖啡..就可以拿來改樣
因為 咖啡機..它有蒸汽/製冰/熱水/打奶泡 的功能..但是調色區和入料口 不夠..
還要有..量的計算與記錄 並可以用電腦顯色..約是在哪個區塊的色澤
it’s my dream..love the clip🥰
Porfavor tem como eu trabalhar com vocês por um período? Eu tenho passaporte europeu e moro na Itália há 10 anos. Obrigada
it would be wonderful to learn all their techniques
Curious: I know that A Lot of these designs are hand sewn, but, do they ever do this hand sewing to make samples which are then turned to machine make-able designs? Yes, there is a lot of intricate detail, and some of it must be hand sewn, but yes, there were some things I saw that had the potential to be machine fabricated.
My grandma is seamstress, koruompelija, this supped to be her job but she was cleaner woman at high schools. After wars was deep poverty 20 years or something, no this kind jobs at Finland. In France what i have read is hierarchic thing still in, in, can it be more worse if you has to be cleaner and this making jewel-dresses your real interest and profession. God's order or what they call their horrific thinking pattern, what goes on and on no one stops their
orders : )
Hello,
Would anyone happen to know the name of the hand-held electric/mechanical device that is used to perforate the transparent paper. You can see the lady using it at 1:07 of this video's timeline. I have been searching extensively but did not get any results, and would really love to know what is is called or where one could acquire it.
Normally when we follow the same step of perforating along the lines of the design on transparent paper so that we can then transfer the design on the fabric with powder. However, we perforate manually with a pin or thin needle or with a sewing machine, but it is still not as practical or quick enough as using that mechanical perforator.
Any clues would be helpful and highly appreciated.
Thank you
hola.. donde puedo conseguir esa aguja... soy de México..
someone knows the name of this machine that they use make the designer of the embroided, pls?
+H.Sttann Sttann Yes it's a motorized embroidery paper punch tool.
It is a variation of a tambour hook. Basically a glorified crochet hook. In India they embroider with a normal steel crochet hook, 0,5 mm
Wonderful 🎉🎉 beautiful 🎉🎉🎉 thank you 🎉🎉🎉
Kudos man. You kept it very simple and helped make the first steps in soft soft. Very Helpfull! Thanks!
Interesting though how Hurel who emplys many asian , black and arab women in their ateliers, believe that they are not good enough to be shown on that video, where they used only white girls as if it would make their products look cheaper if it was not made by a blond chick .
Congratulation on your racism Hurel, well i know where NOT to get any clothes from , and don't forget that your most important clients are from the Middle East and Asia . I am going to send that video to a few friends of mine who work for some newspaper in Chna and the Emirates see what happens to your orders .
My mother worked at Phelps fabric in Jacksonville, Florida i was very young and sit under her machine and collect all that fell they would pay me a Dime for every Crystal so i know that this can be and is $$$$$$$$$$
It was the 70’s
😂
What is she applying on the embellishment at 1.58???
Which fabric do they use to sew??
+Teacher Clau More than likely for this level of hand work and their clients it's silk organzas.
+RunWayUnderground thanks! :)
Alguien sabe cómo se llama la aguja para perforar el papel y poder calcarlo??
Amazing
whats the name of this song, pleas?
Which machine use to design treacing plz tell me name or power name plz
أحب هذا العمل كثيرا. .... منذ كنت صغيرة
Wow its design.. God bless
Exquisite!
Que alguien me diga cómo consigo una trabajó así...
Es mi sueño.
C'est beau ce métier comme il nous manque les genies de la Couture..Monsieur Saint Laurent Mr Le sage.Anne - Marie Gournay ...Tous ces faiseurs de Miracle...
We know that is so hard but that doesn't mean to sale a dress with thousands dollars 🤷🏻♀️
Anyone know the name of the machine that makes the holes in the paper
I really want to know too
Tambour Embroidery is tremendous and much of the talent and work is produced in India, China, Turkey, Eastern regions of Europe... these Couture Houses are Amazing! But so are the artisans that labor and produce vast quantities unrecognized.
“Notions “department is the place my mother work ! She would get buttons galore from a Dime up to $$$ in the 70’s
Hello, how do you call the little electric tool used to transfer the design on the fabric?
Hi mam I'm hand embroidery worker labour my from Indian
My god this must take years to complete
.. very much patient job.
You know as a person that does detailed jewlery and embroidery xD i can say one thing yeah it does but its kinda satisfying at the the same time. Because once in awhile you can stop to admire your work =D
The lady artisans who work on these haute couture pieces wear blue jeans themselves... BRAVE!!!
So engrossing to watch... seemed like it was over before it really began..🧡
I really want to know what kind kind of tools that they use. Please someone help me
All of them have gorgeous clean delicate hands
Hola, disculpa una pregunta ¿que es lo se ponen en las manos y se aplican por detrás del bordado??
Чем смазывают изнанку готовой работы???
Who knew that you could make a living at embroidery?!? 30 years ago I would have made my way to France with my bag of needles and yarn, ready to learn....
Can you give me one chance to show you my embroidery
Hi mam ,I'm selvin from India I like to your work
Whats that powder and glue ? Anyone? Why do they do that
This video answers why designers products are outrageous.
And the stuffs are handmade!
what's that poking machine called, anyone knows? and how to buy?
Can you tell me what is the name of tool that they are using..in time line1.14
Can you imagine - Marie Antoinette would have seen this? I think she wanted to live forever...
Terrible edit, terrible music, but thank you nonetheless.
What was that tool she was using? Spring loaded to make holes at around 1 min 10 seconds. I have staff that can do all these things but that tool looks very useful. They do it free hand with a sour type rotary wheel
Bellísimo..el colmo de la paciencia..
So beautiful awesomist :)
Can i work for you ?i want to be member of ur team bcz i have difrent art of hand Embroidery haute couture i can show you my art dreses via just one time see my art hope so you will like my art :)
Incredible precision to detail!
How do they learn to embroider like this?
This thing you adore is one of Indonesian art called "kebaya brokat"
As if they get paid to do such a pleasant task
Muy bonito. Quisiera saber que tecnica utiliza?
What is this pen like thing with a needle? And how does it work?