Thank you for investing time to make videos like this, and especially for being direct and honest about the details like the old school inline dual print head.
@@andymccleary5635 What about the contamination that Anghus mentioned? I really like the specs of this machine, but dont like the cross contamination especially when I want to combine this with dissolvable filaments. I'm stuck between an affordable machine and the Ultimaker 3 for its perceved plug and print reputation.
Angus, I know you were not too fond of the BEETHEFIRST, but I absolutely love mine. I got it recently and was up in running with it quickly. Super user friendly and reliable. Worth every penny in my opinion!
We do trust your reviews. Our group is getting ready to purchase hundreds of 3D printers and have been doing our research based on what you think. That's how much we believe in you. We will wish you well my friend.
I have great respect for your honest reviews. I am looking for a replacement for my A Type Machine. While I have had nothing but great success with my current machine, it is older now and technology has improved. I want the most accurate PLA capability machine. This review has my attention, thank you for your honestly and this review. Cheers!
I am watching this and thinking why? I will never get a 3-d printer or use them. Somehow I just enjoy watching your videos. Looking forward to your next one, regardless of what it is about.
Technical stuff is almost always interesting, I watch lots of AvE videos yet don't have any plans to get a lathe or a milling machine (but I would like one).
Oiling my filament was the only thing that fixed both my printers the other week. I literally tried everything else. It took 8 days to finally fix them. I was desperate at 2am and ended up putting canola oil in the extruder as a last resort. Not only did it fix the printers (skipping/under-extrusion issues), it made them better than they came out of the box. I don't even use the sponge / oiler. I just put some on my fingers and run it up and down the filament feeding into the machines once or twice a day. Clear and pure peanut oil seems to work really well, and not discolour the prints if you happen to apply too much
Bought this as it is the only really state of the art competitor to prusa that doesn't have a big lead time to get. Thanks for the intro to it, I will update!
A M thank you! Mike just shipped out today so should be a good couple days before it gets here to the states. Very excited. Out of curiosity, what did you use for oil for the oiler?
I have been looking for a kit to start messing around in 3D printing, and these guys are from right around the corner from me! Perfect! Great work as always!
Whoa, taking shots at the A8. I like the A8. Its a great start and a good platform to build a really high quality DIY printer. I’ve had mine for almost a year now, and the printer has undergone several “surgeries” for improvements. I would definitely recommend the A8 to anyone who likes to tinker and wants to get their feet wet while having a great learning experience.
As someone who's first 3D printer is a Anet A8 that I had to assemble, troubleshoot, and tinker on largely on my own, this printer looks pretty appealing, until I have more room for 3D printers though I'll stick with my little cheapo printer, it's a trooper and it's fun to tinker on
One of my thoughts for your colour bleed might be more perimeter walls with inside out printing. Might solve some of the problems. But thanks for a great detailed review. Will have to look at this printer.
Great review as always Angus. Agreed, kudos to BVC for having the balls to reach out to you again. I do kind of like it, but having to use an oiler feels like a bit of a bodge, even though it clearly worked very well. Not liking the dual hotend implementation either. On the plus side, I love the TMC 2130 implementation with sensorless homing, I plan to do the same to the Borg at some point.
Great review. Try reprinting your dual color models with the ooze shield. I ran into the same problems with my Anet A8-M dual extruder printer. The ooze shield makes a big difference. And yes.. the inline extruders are a real pain to get aligned/leveled.
Much as I would like to get this printer, it seems at the moment Beeverycreative don't ship to Australia, and the 650 EUR unit price is only the first spear in the kangaroo. As others outside the EU have pointed out, Unit Price: 650 EUR Shipping: 150 EUR Line total: 800 EUR (1280 DIdgeridollars) Import Duty: 52 DID Import GST: 135 DID Processing fee: 50 DID Delivered total: 1517 DID Considering a FlashForge Adventurer 4 is ~1200 DID (just example of non-kit printer) and this has no local support/suppliers for spares if something goes bang (as opposed to Prusa) I don't see the value proposition, which I would think is part of the point of any kit printer as opposed to pre-built
Interesting printer! You mention that dual color printing isn't for you, I agree, but have you considered dual material printing? I have with good success printed PLA and Filaflex in the same print. As an example I have made vibration dampeners and hinges. To avoid ousing I set the retract distance to 4mm. You should test this, that's when dual nozzles come in handy. Btw, I use a Malyan 180.
The early Apple computer homed it's floppy drive by stepping toward home by 40ish steps and then was Home. No track zero positioning home switches. It was designed to be as cheap as possible. It produced a racket but it worked.
I think the Commodore 1541 drives must have done something similar, you could hear it colliding all the time, it sounded like it was pounding nails into your floppy disks, but really it was probably just bumping the head against the end of its rail.
Early PC's also did this. Then pre-formatted floppy disks had one home track somewhere and normally unaccessible service tracks on both extremes. The read head could then put a very short signal to the hardware driver in order to stop the stepper motor. That was the moment when drives became human ear friendly, too 😊
Good review. I own a previous version of this printer, and have the same issues. It is good, when you eventually tweek it to be good, but from the box, with assembly and all, not for beginners definitely. All in all, if I would compare it to my wanhao i3, I would say that the prusa is not reliable.
Wow! I'd really like to have to have the money to get and test this beast (and to use it for some bigger projects)! And I really love the way it is made. Maybe get some nice yellow spraypaint to get it even nicer colours and make it really stunning and standing out. Love your honest review
I love the color of that aqua filament. And if you want small spools, I got a 200g spool of Amolen glow in the dark blue PLA. It's the cutest thing ever (and a pretty good filament to boot, even if it needs UV light to really shine). There's a part of me that really wants a dual extruder, or at least a multi material printer, but man, that dual inline hot end just looks janky.
Good Review. I remember those CTC machines MakerBot clones with dual nozzles, which came out of alignment so it would properly print with just one. LOL This kit looks good though. Love the TM2130s!
Thanks for posting this Angus. I have been looking for a printer with these qualities for quite some time that was a bit cheaper than a Prusa. I will be looking into getting one of these. I still dont understand though why nore printers dont have touchscreen interfaces. I have a Wanhao i3+ and whilat its is basic, its overall design is really good and should be held up as an example of how a 3D printer can be built. If my i3+ had all the features of this printer or a prusa Mk3, it would be the best i3 style printer on the market.
I think touchscreens are something you don't really need (or want) in a device like this, especially since it would be a pretty crappy resistive one.. I'm much rather have a nice pushable rotary encoder knob, and fast navigation.
Looks good. Maybe a one-nozzle variant could be sold for slightly less money? Are you listening, Bee Company? The second hot end just seems to add complexity, weight, and for many users, unnecessary expense. It's nice to see a straightforward 3D printer review on a 3D printing RUclips channel these days.
Like a mix of wow and how odd/old is that. Definitely needs a spool holder setup. Maybe something of a gantry hanging overhead or off a shelf above it. They cheaped out on the LCD and controls and why, why do manufacturers put them way up on top of the machine?! Not for me, with my disability these DIY kits are impossible. Should suggest to the seller they include a small jar or can of paint to cover those raw edges. Good review, Angus.
Whoaah.. this machine is costy! I've expected something around 300-400$ But for this amount of money is better to build something like Uni printer and make it with a direct extruder
I mean, it is open source, (poor) dual extrusion, good manuals, seemingly good support, advanced motherboard/steppers and a very stiff frame, I don't think it's a bad price. It's just not a price I'm willing to lay down.
For a non-chinese, open source printer of that size, I don't think it's a bad price. They are running a special right now... 584.91€. That makes it even more reasonable.
Its a weekend to stay in doors and print or watch you great reviews ,Raining cats and dogs and horse down here at JB, the gong has probably washed down to Kembla and the sea.
can you make a video on how the printer use sensorless homing using the tmc2130 based on the firmware installed on the printer and how we can use it our printers. great review as always!!!
Connect the diag1 pin of the driver to the signal-input of the corresponding endstop, then activate sensorless homing in your firmware (reflash) and done :)
@@tiagogala I simply gave the answer how to use sensorless homing on other printers than the B2X300 using TMC2130 which was also part of andrew c's question. (at least i understood it that way)
That's awesome, I have been looking to add another 3d printer to my space. This one would be an awesome candidate if I could afford it. Still, it's nice to see that there are still decent 3d printers being made.
Well that's a big 3D printer :O Nice work Angus, keep up the good work! I would have loved to use this one for my latest project where i needed a build plate of over 250mm :D No 3D model cuts => better quality
lol just seen your video with the head unit. I happen to have the same car as yours. I'll make it :)) . Thanks Angus for making me see new makers around the world.
Ok so a few comments on the "collision sensing" Driver doesn't sense actual collision. Driver reads voltage spikes when it meets resistance along an axis. Sound familiar? The Cetus mkII had the SAME HOMING SYSTEM and it was obnoxious. It's a bad and noisy homing system that makes you want to go back to limit switches asap. Sure, few wires but a separate headache altogether. Rest of the review was good though!
Interesting. The idea of sealing up of the porous metals to get plastics to sail over such now flatter surfaces. This is worth trying to condition with, and may solve issues with less easier to work with filaments! I'll try some synthetic bike oil, maybe coconut oil, or by using a plastic card scraping to collect the ample supply of oils from my sebacious nose pores in a pinch.
Holy carp, is that 5mm thick steel plate. Must be heavy, even with all the cutouts. You can put an upside dial guage on the bed to level the tips perfectly, that's how we do multi cutter wheels on a large mills - I used to machine a lot of cylinder heads -.
Angus thank you for this review.. it's very interesting. In your opinion which has the best printing quality (smooth details) between the B2X300, iPRUSA MK3s and Ultimaker 3 Extended?
fanboyism is such a pain to deal with... Yes the ender is good for less then 180€ at 230 it would only be okay and above 300 its just incredibly unreasonable. For someone looking at 700+ € machines the comparison is just absurd. Prusia mk3 vs this is a really interesting comparison. The CR10S pro in comparison would also be really interesting for me.
Hi, Im now a subscriber keep up the good work...I have a cocoon create which I love, but I would like much bigger...would you recommend this or another machine for larger builds?
Holy crap, €584 euro?! For 300x200x300? I paid $389 us for the FLSUN on amazon and it's a kit as well with a 300x300x420 boils size. Comes with a single, a chimera and a Cyclops print head and all the hardware to use them. Plus all but the carriage head mount parts are metal. And it had auto bed leveling and a heated bed and the color touchscreen is icing on the cake.
good luck reaching 300 degree with that :) There is more to printers then just size. a 300+ size that takes days cause the hotend is too slow due to weight doesnt help you at all. also quality and material choice matter to may
Prusa has a cool looking multi extruder, think you could review it? I know it is expensive so if not, that’s fine, Great review by the way, fantastic seeing new machines on the market
Given your results adding an oiler to this bot, I'd be interested to see how it changes (or doesn't) the print quality on some of your other printers with or without all-metal hotends. Specifically the ones you're already happy with. It's something I considered a bit after hearing rumblings about it, but never got around to trying.
That's what happens in technology, my 4 year old Intel CPUs are now 5 "generations" behind the current ones, with even newer ones coming out this year. Quad Core with hyperthreading were the best you could get without spending crazy sums to money to get 2 more cores, and now quad cores are quickly becoming a thing of the past, even in phones!
Angus, why are you using a purge tower on a dual head printer? Purge tower is for multi extruder single nozzle machines. Use an ooze shield for dual heads.
Now...all I need is the lovechild of this, the prusa mk3 mmu and the palette... Angus - more information on the bed/mesh levelling system would've been nice :)
The levelling of the bed is done automatically via a microswitch + servo system. I haven't had any trouble with this and it has very good repeatability. According to the website (www.b2x300.com), the 15 probed points are internally interpolated to 45 points for mesh bed levelling. I guess a Pallette would work pretty much out of the box with this :)
In my experience, filament oiling is usually a band-aid to make up for slightly rough machining in the nozzle or heat break. It seems to bring results here so I don't know.
There is a local 3d printer filament company that suggested that for their filament. did not help. they couldnt understand switching to different brands of filament fixed the issues. The filiament printed fine for the first 100g or so then went to crap. direct drive and oilers did not help. They started blaming my machines saying none of their other customers have that issue. again, different filaments worked just fine. Even sent some off to a friend to try and he had the same issues. Pretty much my take on oilers at this point.
Hi! There's a thing called "Compliant mechanisms". It's kind of interesting 3d printable mechanic thing that's consist usually from single part tough capable of really complex movements and can be used even for animatronic purposes. Would be nice to see your take on that idea.
It would be great if you could focus more on using dual extrusion for support material. I use my 3D printers for functional prints and I've always wondered if I would benefit by using dissolvable supports. As it is now, I design my parts to avoid supports as much as possible.
I thought the idea of a 3D printer was to build something that could print the majority of parts it uses? I GET that I could probably use a laser to cut steel to produce printer parts. But then I have to have access to a laser cutter, right? Also, yes you have two extruders, but you can’t use two different materials. An MK3S with the multi filament system seems to work with multiple materials.
It's currently at 660 USD and for the size and parts it comes with I'm really thinking about it, BUT! it bothers me that i won't be able to print flexible filament. I get the idea of a bowden extruder but this machine seems to be built strong and stiff enough to have a direct drive extruder and two filaments heads will always cause issues sooner or later. I completely agree with the conclusion of the video. I much rather they offer a single extruder version with direct drive and an add on like Prusa has for multi filament. I think it has advantages over the i3 but then shoots itself in the foot.
I'd mount the extruders on each end of the x gantry. That should allow you to shorten the lengths of the Bowden Tubes. You might need to get a stronger set of motors for the Z Axis though if the ones on it are not up to par for the extra weight.
stronger motors alone dont compensate for more weight. the more weight you move the higher the inertia created creating either vibration or forcing you to use lower speed. The print quality we saw is the result of this if they can get it tuned just right... which im kinda skeptical about >.>
haha, i'm religiously using an oiler when ever i print PLA, and have gotten plenty of shit in forums and disgussion groups for recommending it to newbies. even with direct extruders it works wonders, particularly for stupporn kinds like opaque grey and white, and some metallic colors. other plastics suffer decresed layer adhesion, though, and there the effect isnt nearly as noticable.
at first i used a printed holder with a split sponge, but eventually settled for just piercing the filament through a little piece of sponge, after massaging 2-3 drops of olive, sunflower or rapeseed oil into it. you only want a miniscule amount on the filament, comparable to a smudge on a phone screen. too much or synthetic oils will adversely effect layer adhesion.
Great indepth review, Angus! I still get color bleed contamination on my Flashforge Creator Pro when printing dual (even with ooze shield via Simplify3D). I'm curious what the fix is as it used to be pretty spot on in color printing separation.
Sorry for the unrelated questions. Is there any programs that can auto cut a large model in pieces that fit your print area? I'm still fairly new, can you use a custom model to subtract from another model? For example design a mask then use a 3d scan of a face to subtract from the backside to make it form fitting.
Since this printer supports two filaments, do you think it would be fairly easy to modify the carriage to hold an E3D Cyclops+ hotend? That would mean one nozzle, so most of the dual filament issues mentioned wouldn't exist.
Dang. Looks like a really good printer. But, I was hoping for a much better price right up to the very end. Oh well. I still have and love my Anet A8...
I have one. Very difficult to get it work properly. It has a poorly designed heatbed cable, needs to be rebuild. The printer has huge problems with layer shifting, (the Y-axis). The fan duct on the mother board was faulty mounted from facroty, took a few days to figure out what the error was. It has no place to mount the fillament spools, so it is not fully complete, so you need to design this yourself.
@@geniumme2502 My impression is that the printer needs more development. The faulty mounted fan duct was probably a monday product error, but some other issues is not, it is just that simple that the product was not finnished when they puted it for sale.
@@SuperAnatolli thanks for the reply... hm yea QC isnt gonna be amazing - but unless i go prusa its not gonna get better^^ creality isnt quite known for good QC either haha
I..... didn't actually know stepper drivers could do sensorless homing. That was one thing I didn't like about going from my MOD-t to the CR-10s. Those little contact switches seemed so janky and low-tech compared to the sensing the servo motors homed on the MOD-t. It works, but just a little scary and seems less accurate. Now I'm wondering if I could upgrade the CR-10s to use sensorless homing. Also... I really love the industrial look to this printer!
Shame about the double extruder. I've been wanting to break into that stuff as well as increase print size, so this kit looked ideal. Wonder if they'll make version with a single extruder.
256 microsteps, and... that's not true, because either Prusa and B2X300 don't have it because of one reason - that would be impossible to run at acceptable print speeds with atmega2560 onboard. Prusas for example use 16 real microsteps, but they are interpolated to 256 microsteps to make stepper motors work less noisy, but firmware is not able to use those 256 microsteps
They use the same interpolation as the Prusa (16 interpolated to 256), besides being more silent, the movements are also smoother. Although it's using 16 micro steps nothing stops you from using 256 real microsteps (but you'll have to print slower).
![Wiz Khalifa - Khalifa's Home [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnrLCTe0Nz4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for showing my sticker Angus!😁
Facinating printer, some really creative ideas and beautiful documentation...
Thank you for investing time to make videos like this, and especially for being direct and honest about the details like the old school inline dual print head.
The dual inline is definitely fiddly but not impossible. I have it running just fine.
@@andymccleary5635 What about the contamination that Anghus mentioned? I really like the specs of this machine, but dont like the cross contamination especially when I want to combine this with dissolvable filaments. I'm stuck between an affordable machine and the Ultimaker 3 for its perceved plug and print reputation.
Angus, I know you were not too fond of the BEETHEFIRST, but I absolutely love mine. I got it recently and was up in running with it quickly. Super user friendly and reliable. Worth every penny in my opinion!
Oh my god I want this printer so much.
We've got a lost RUclips comment here. Can anyone point him in the right direction?
@@adamh2077 why is that? you have a different, better suggestion?
@@geniumme2502 oh no don't worry, there was a reply here that was on about the mysteries of the universe or whatever. He's deleted his comment now
Haha love your robotic arm! Trying to get my Tronxy x5s accurate enough to print it
Amazingl, oiling does work on all metal hotends when printing PLA. Nice review.
I've never had to do it, but it MIGHT explain why the first gen cetus had issues with some brands of PLA.
We do trust your reviews. Our group is getting ready to purchase hundreds of 3D printers and have been doing our research based on what you think. That's how much we believe in you. We will wish you well my friend.
You could always do a pilot with a few-less-than-100s of printers to see for yourself
love the frame build with the rods. hate the nozzle solution
I have great respect for your honest reviews. I am looking for a replacement for my A Type Machine. While I have had nothing but great success with my current machine, it is older now and technology has improved. I want the most accurate PLA capability machine. This review has my attention, thank you for your honestly and this review. Cheers!
I am watching this and thinking why? I will never get a 3-d printer or use them. Somehow I just enjoy watching your videos. Looking forward to your next one, regardless of what it is about.
Technical stuff is almost always interesting, I watch lots of AvE videos yet don't have any plans to get a lathe or a milling machine (but I would like one).
Oiling my filament was the only thing that fixed both my printers the other week. I literally tried everything else. It took 8 days to finally fix them.
I was desperate at 2am and ended up putting canola oil in the extruder as a last resort.
Not only did it fix the printers (skipping/under-extrusion issues), it made them better than they came out of the box.
I don't even use the sponge / oiler. I just put some on my fingers and run it up and down the filament feeding into the machines once or twice a day.
Clear and pure peanut oil seems to work really well, and not discolour the prints if you happen to apply too much
Bought this as it is the only really state of the art competitor to prusa that doesn't have a big lead time to get. Thanks for the intro to it, I will update!
A M same here. I’ve read mixed things on the mk3
This thing is amazing. The kit was extremely well done, and the prints are just as good as Angus says. Buy one, thank me later.
A M thank you! Mike just shipped out today so should be a good couple days before it gets here to the states. Very excited. Out of curiosity, what did you use for oil for the oiler?
@@tjlqk3 I used grapeseed oil from the kitchen. It's high temp and doesn't smell. My prints are crisp and look like angus'
A M sweet. I’ll probably use WD40 or canola myself lol. Glad your having a good experience with it. Definitely makes me happy to hear!
I have been looking for a kit to start messing around in 3D printing, and these guys are from right around the corner from me! Perfect! Great work as always!
Whoa, taking shots at the A8. I like the A8. Its a great start and a good platform to build a really high quality DIY printer. I’ve had mine for almost a year now, and the printer has undergone several “surgeries” for improvements. I would definitely recommend the A8 to anyone who likes to tinker and wants to get their feet wet while having a great learning experience.
You are excellent at explaining 3D printers.
As someone who's first 3D printer is a Anet A8 that I had to assemble, troubleshoot, and tinker on largely on my own, this printer looks pretty appealing, until I have more room for 3D printers though I'll stick with my little cheapo printer, it's a trooper and it's fun to tinker on
One of my thoughts for your colour bleed might be more perimeter walls with inside out printing. Might solve some of the problems. But thanks for a great detailed review. Will have to look at this printer.
A bit of fingernail polish on those exposed raw metal bits would also work.
Probably a bit more durable too.
Might even be able to find some automotive touch up paint in a tube that would more closely match the powder coating.
@@javabeanz8549 definitely. I think that nail polish would be faster but that would probably be more durable after a touch of clear coat.
@@terryrhuebottom I'd use Hammerite, no need for primer, and it'really strong
Absolutely - and in yellow (hammerite also comes in yellow) too xD
Great review as always Angus. Agreed, kudos to BVC for having the balls to reach out to you again. I do kind of like it, but having to use an oiler feels like a bit of a bodge, even though it clearly worked very well. Not liking the dual hotend implementation either.
On the plus side, I love the TMC 2130 implementation with sensorless homing, I plan to do the same to the Borg at some point.
Great review. Try reprinting your dual color models with the ooze shield. I ran into the same problems with my Anet A8-M dual extruder printer. The ooze shield makes a big difference. And yes.. the inline extruders are a real pain to get aligned/leveled.
Much as I would like to get this printer, it seems at the moment Beeverycreative don't ship to Australia, and the 650 EUR unit price is only the first spear in the kangaroo. As others outside the EU have pointed out,
Unit Price: 650 EUR
Shipping: 150 EUR
Line total: 800 EUR (1280 DIdgeridollars)
Import Duty: 52 DID
Import GST: 135 DID
Processing fee: 50 DID
Delivered total: 1517 DID
Considering a FlashForge Adventurer 4 is ~1200 DID (just example of non-kit printer) and this has no local support/suppliers for spares if something goes bang (as opposed to Prusa) I don't see the value proposition, which I would think is part of the point of any kit printer as opposed to pre-built
Interesting printer! You mention that dual color printing isn't for you, I agree, but have you considered dual material printing? I have with good success printed PLA and Filaflex in the same print. As an example I have made vibration dampeners and hinges. To avoid ousing I set the retract distance to 4mm. You should test this, that's when dual nozzles come in handy. Btw, I use a Malyan 180.
There is a reason why they send you one again, you make honest and good reviews. Nice video
The early Apple computer homed it's floppy drive by stepping toward home by 40ish steps and then was Home. No track zero positioning home switches. It was designed to be as cheap as possible. It produced a racket but it worked.
I think the Commodore 1541 drives must have done something similar, you could hear it colliding all the time, it sounded like it was pounding nails into your floppy disks, but really it was probably just bumping the head against the end of its rail.
They do the same thing with idle valves on cars.
@@BrainSlugs83 I think both did It.
Early PC's also did this. Then pre-formatted floppy disks had one home track somewhere and normally unaccessible service tracks on both extremes. The read head could then put a very short signal to the hardware driver in order to stop the stepper motor. That was the moment when drives became human ear friendly, too 😊
Good review. I own a previous version of this printer, and have the same issues. It is good, when you eventually tweek it to be good, but from the box, with assembly and all, not for beginners definitely. All in all, if I would compare it to my wanhao i3, I would say that the prusa is not reliable.
Excellent review Angus, thanks for sharing your honest opinion about the B2X300 and all of its features, pro and cons and your recommendation.
You are SO right about fixed dual nozzles.
Any long term follow up video review planned for this machine?
Great stuff Angus. Certainly not at the budget end but looks solid. Will be interesting seeing extra info appear over time. Cheers, JAYTEE
Wow!
I'd really like to have to have the money to get and test this beast (and to use it for some bigger projects)!
And I really love the way it is made. Maybe get some nice yellow spraypaint to get it even nicer colours and make it really stunning and standing out.
Love your honest review
Angus, which one do you like better, Creality or this? I currently have a prusa mk3 (S parts on the way) and I’d like a bigger print bed.
Looks like an amazing design, really well built and for what you get the price is decent.
I love the color of that aqua filament. And if you want small spools, I got a 200g spool of Amolen glow in the dark blue PLA. It's the cutest thing ever (and a pretty good filament to boot, even if it needs UV light to really shine). There's a part of me that really wants a dual extruder, or at least a multi material printer, but man, that dual inline hot end just looks janky.
Good Review. I remember those CTC machines MakerBot clones with dual nozzles, which came out of alignment so it would properly print with just one. LOL
This kit looks good though. Love the TM2130s!
Thanks for posting this Angus.
I have been looking for a printer with these qualities for quite some time that was a bit cheaper than a Prusa.
I will be looking into getting one of these.
I still dont understand though why nore printers dont have touchscreen interfaces.
I have a Wanhao i3+ and whilat its is basic, its overall design is really good and should be held up as an example of how a 3D printer can be built. If my i3+ had all the features of this printer or a prusa Mk3, it would be the best i3 style printer on the market.
I think touchscreens are something you don't really need (or want) in a device like this, especially since it would be a pretty crappy resistive one.. I'm much rather have a nice pushable rotary encoder knob, and fast navigation.
Looks good. Maybe a one-nozzle variant could be sold for slightly less money? Are you listening, Bee Company? The second hot end just seems to add complexity, weight, and for many users, unnecessary expense.
It's nice to see a straightforward 3D printer review on a 3D printing RUclips channel these days.
If this thing had a single direct drive ... And was about 150-200$ cheaper...I'd be all in.
Like a mix of wow and how odd/old is that. Definitely needs a spool holder setup. Maybe something of a gantry hanging overhead or off a shelf above it. They cheaped out on the LCD and controls and why, why do manufacturers put them way up on top of the machine?! Not for me, with my disability these DIY kits are impossible. Should suggest to the seller they include a small jar or can of paint to cover those raw edges.
Good review, Angus.
Whoaah.. this machine is costy! I've expected something around 300-400$ But for this amount of money is better to build something like Uni printer and make it with a direct extruder
I mean, it is open source, (poor) dual extrusion, good manuals, seemingly good support, advanced motherboard/steppers and a very stiff frame, I don't think it's a bad price. It's just not a price I'm willing to lay down.
For a non-chinese, open source printer of that size, I don't think it's a bad price. They are running a special right now... 584.91€. That makes it even more reasonable.
Its a weekend to stay in doors and print or watch you great reviews ,Raining cats and dogs and horse down here at JB, the gong has probably washed down to Kembla and the sea.
Love that clean dual colour thingy beside a spaghetti monster purge tower.
can you make a video on how the printer use sensorless homing using the tmc2130 based on the firmware installed on the printer and how we can use it our printers.
great review as always!!!
Connect the diag1 pin of the driver to the signal-input of the corresponding endstop, then activate sensorless homing in your firmware (reflash) and done :)
@@th33xitus You 'd need those Trinamic drivers though, if you're not using the B2X300
@@th33xitus B2X300 Trinamic drivers don't use the interrupt pins, all communication is done via SPI and the sensorless homing is done via polling
@@tiagogala I simply gave the answer how to use sensorless homing on other printers than the B2X300 using TMC2130 which was also part of andrew c's question. (at least i understood it that way)
Excellent review - as always Angus. Thanks!
That Prusa i3 in the background looks TINY!!!
Small or far away?
/Father Ted
That's awesome, I have been looking to add another 3d printer to my space. This one would be an awesome candidate if I could afford it. Still, it's nice to see that there are still decent 3d printers being made.
Well that's a big 3D printer :O Nice work Angus, keep up the good work! I would have loved to use this one for my latest project where i needed a build plate of over 250mm :D No 3D model cuts => better quality
lol just seen your video with the head unit. I happen to have the same car as yours. I'll make it :)) . Thanks Angus for making me see new makers around the world.
Thanks mate! All the files are open-source. You can find them on thingiverse. Glad to hear you are making it :)
Ok so a few comments on the "collision sensing"
Driver doesn't sense actual collision. Driver reads voltage spikes when it meets resistance along an axis. Sound familiar?
The Cetus mkII had the SAME HOMING SYSTEM and it was obnoxious. It's a bad and noisy homing system that makes you want to go back to limit switches asap.
Sure, few wires but a separate headache altogether. Rest of the review was good though!
we have seen plenty of printing by now - it didnt seem noisy, could you explain what you mean? what sound should i be looking for?
I'm not sure why, but "triangulated to within an inch of it's life" is one of the best lines I've ever heard.
Interesting. The idea of sealing up of the porous metals to get plastics to sail over such now flatter surfaces.
This is worth trying to condition with, and may solve issues with less easier to work with filaments!
I'll try some synthetic bike oil, maybe coconut oil, or by using a plastic card scraping to collect the ample supply of oils from my sebacious nose pores in a pinch.
from the side of physics, such long bowden lines are a time delay and result in awful settings of retraction to be setup individually for each model
Holy carp, is that 5mm thick steel plate. Must be heavy, even with all the cutouts.
You can put an upside dial guage on the bed to level the tips perfectly, that's how we do multi cutter wheels on a large mills - I used to machine a lot of cylinder heads -.
Angus thank you for this review.. it's very interesting. In your opinion which has the best printing quality (smooth details) between the B2X300, iPRUSA MK3s and Ultimaker 3 Extended?
Looks like a fun build! Thanks for the fair review!
Looking for a new printer, might try out this one!
ender 3 if you don't own it already
@npgoalkeeper _ you're right, an ender 3 prints better.
Get an Original Prusa if you don’t have one yet.
fanboyism is such a pain to deal with... Yes the ender is good for less then 180€ at 230 it would only be okay and above 300 its just incredibly unreasonable. For someone looking at 700+ € machines the comparison is just absurd.
Prusia mk3 vs this is a really interesting comparison. The CR10S pro in comparison would also be really interesting for me.
Hi, Im now a subscriber keep up the good work...I have a cocoon create which I love, but I would like much bigger...would you recommend this or another machine for larger builds?
Priming tower is optimal for a multi-mixer; ooze shield is for dual nozzles.
Holy crap, €584 euro?! For 300x200x300? I paid $389 us for the FLSUN on amazon and it's a kit as well with a 300x300x420 boils size. Comes with a single, a chimera and a Cyclops print head and all the hardware to use them. Plus all but the carriage head mount parts are metal. And it had auto bed leveling and a heated bed and the color touchscreen is icing on the cake.
good luck reaching 300 degree with that :) There is more to printers then just size. a 300+ size that takes days cause the hotend is too slow due to weight doesnt help you at all. also quality and material choice matter to may
Prusa has a cool looking multi extruder, think you could review it? I know it is expensive so if not, that’s fine, Great review by the way, fantastic seeing new machines on the market
Given your results adding an oiler to this bot, I'd be interested to see how it changes (or doesn't) the print quality on some of your other printers with or without all-metal hotends. Specifically the ones you're already happy with. It's something I considered a bit after hearing rumblings about it, but never got around to trying.
I'm always amused when people say "way back" and literally mean 3-4 years ago ;)
omg you caught a bot
That's what happens in technology, my 4 year old Intel CPUs are now 5 "generations" behind the current ones, with even newer ones coming out this year. Quad Core with hyperthreading were the best you could get without spending crazy sums to money to get 2 more cores, and now quad cores are quickly becoming a thing of the past, even in phones!
3-4 years ago _is_ way back when we're talking about 3d printer tech.
@@drhender6943 and 5-6 years ago is nearly the 3D printing *Stone Age*
Great review - awesomely genuine!!! thanks for posting.
Angus, why are you using a purge tower on a dual head printer? Purge tower is for multi extruder single nozzle machines. Use an ooze shield for dual heads.
Now...all I need is the lovechild of this, the prusa mk3 mmu and the palette...
Angus - more information on the bed/mesh levelling system would've been nice :)
The levelling of the bed is done automatically via a microswitch + servo system. I haven't had any trouble with this and it has very good repeatability. According to the website (www.b2x300.com), the 15 probed points are internally interpolated to 45 points for mesh bed levelling.
I guess a Pallette would work pretty much out of the box with this :)
In my experience, filament oiling is usually a band-aid to make up for slightly rough machining in the nozzle or heat break.
It seems to bring results here so I don't know.
There is a local 3d printer filament company that suggested that for their filament. did not help. they couldnt understand switching to different brands of filament fixed the issues. The filiament printed fine for the first 100g or so then went to crap. direct drive and oilers did not help. They started blaming my machines saying none of their other customers have that issue. again, different filaments worked just fine. Even sent some off to a friend to try and he had the same issues. Pretty much my take on oilers at this point.
As Soon as I can fix my Y axis layer shift issue on my new Geeetech A10M, I will plan on getting my 5th printer.
This is not open source printer. Source for lasercut fram is not relased. So you may correct statement in video.
Hi! There's a thing called "Compliant mechanisms". It's kind of interesting 3d printable mechanic thing that's consist usually from single part tough capable of really complex movements and can be used even for animatronic purposes. Would be nice to see your take on that idea.
It would be great if you could focus more on using dual extrusion for support material. I use my 3D printers for functional prints and I've always wondered if I would benefit by using dissolvable supports. As it is now, I design my parts to avoid supports as much as possible.
that 300grams of filament on the dinky spool is what Prusa provide you if you go for the 3s MK3S print it yourself upgrade kit.
I wonder if after using this machine for some time, have you been able to work out the kinks with dual color/nozzle printing?
I thought the idea of a 3D printer was to build something that could print the majority of parts it uses? I GET that I could probably use a laser to cut steel to produce printer parts. But then I have to have access to a laser cutter, right? Also, yes you have two extruders, but you can’t use two different materials. An MK3S with the multi filament system seems to work with multiple materials.
I think they should drop the dual nozzle and go for single nozzle and put the extruders on the x axis
Personally I'd swap it with a nice E3D direct feed hotend and call it a day
It's currently at 660 USD and for the size and parts it comes with I'm really thinking about it, BUT! it bothers me that i won't be able to print flexible filament. I get the idea of a bowden extruder but this machine seems to be built strong and stiff enough to have a direct drive extruder and two filaments heads will always cause issues sooner or later.
I completely agree with the conclusion of the video. I much rather they offer a single extruder version with direct drive and an add on like Prusa has for multi filament.
I think it has advantages over the i3 but then shoots itself in the foot.
I'd mount the extruders on each end of the x gantry. That should allow you to shorten the lengths of the Bowden Tubes. You might need to get a stronger set of motors for the Z Axis though if the ones on it are not up to par for the extra weight.
stronger motors alone dont compensate for more weight. the more weight you move the higher the inertia created creating either vibration or forcing you to use lower speed. The print quality we saw is the result of this if they can get it tuned just right... which im kinda skeptical about >.>
you either love it or hate it, I quite like it... Maker's Muse 2019
Charley Wright you were on the trend before it existed
Yaaaas you finally reviewed it!
Wow. A review of a portuguese 3D Printer. Feeling at home now xD
That was fantastic, extremely helpful and seemed very fair. Thanks!
What are you checking for on the clearance and tolerance gauge you showed? Additionally, is there a model of it you have published?
haha, i'm religiously using an oiler when ever i print PLA, and have gotten plenty of shit in forums and disgussion groups for recommending it to newbies.
even with direct extruders it works wonders, particularly for stupporn kinds like opaque grey and white, and some metallic colors. other plastics suffer decresed layer adhesion, though, and there the effect isnt nearly as noticable.
How are you oiling your filament? What oil do you use?
at first i used a printed holder with a split sponge, but eventually settled for just piercing the filament through a little piece of sponge, after massaging 2-3 drops of olive, sunflower or rapeseed oil into it. you only want a miniscule amount on the filament, comparable to a smudge on a phone screen. too much or synthetic oils will adversely effect layer adhesion.
Great indepth review, Angus! I still get color bleed contamination on my Flashforge Creator Pro when printing dual (even with ooze shield via Simplify3D). I'm curious what the fix is as it used to be pretty spot on in color printing separation.
Bloody hell I'm early fantastic video as always!!!!!!!!
I want that frame to be open source. That looks slick.
it is on github
BeeVeryCreative is running a special on this printer right now... 584.91€. For this size printer, I think that's a pretty reasonable price.
before tax and shipping :P I just bought one yesterday looking forward to it :)
POR-15 on the break points. Protected for life.
Sorry for the unrelated questions. Is there any programs that can auto cut a large model in pieces that fit your print area? I'm still fairly new, can you use a custom model to subtract from another model? For example design a mask then use a 3d scan of a face to subtract from the backside to make it form fitting.
Since this printer supports two filaments, do you think it would be fairly easy to modify the carriage to hold an E3D Cyclops+ hotend? That would mean one nozzle, so most of the dual filament issues mentioned wouldn't exist.
Dang. Looks like a really good printer. But, I was hoping for a much better price right up to the very end. Oh well. I still have and love my Anet A8...
Colours spreading maybe retractions not enough with those Bowdens
That’s not bad.
How do you feel about the railcore II?
Hi, Great video
If possible, could you do a video oiling the print nozzle? This is the first time I've seen or heard of this.
I'm wondering if this would help a cheap bowden style printer I was given.
Hey Angus, If possible would you please do a review of the Creality 3D CR-10S Pro?
That wave looks like an audio sample that was splined into a straight line.
I have one. Very difficult to get it work properly. It has a poorly designed heatbed cable, needs to be rebuild. The printer has huge problems with layer shifting, (the Y-axis). The fan duct on the mother board was faulty mounted from facroty, took a few days to figure out what the error was. It has no place to mount the fillament spools, so it is not fully complete, so you need to design this yourself.
Hey, were those monday product errors or do you feel like its a deal breaker?
@@geniumme2502 My impression is that the printer needs more development. The faulty mounted fan duct was probably a monday product error, but some other issues is not, it is just that simple that the product was not finnished when they puted it for sale.
@@SuperAnatolli thanks for the reply... hm yea QC isnt gonna be amazing - but unless i go prusa its not gonna get better^^ creality isnt quite known for good QC either haha
Please make a video of PETG settings for simplify 3D. Great videos btw!
I..... didn't actually know stepper drivers could do sensorless homing. That was one thing I didn't like about going from my MOD-t to the CR-10s. Those little contact switches seemed so janky and low-tech compared to the sensing the servo motors homed on the MOD-t. It works, but just a little scary and seems less accurate.
Now I'm wondering if I could upgrade the CR-10s to use sensorless homing.
Also... I really love the industrial look to this printer!
You 'd have to get a better controllerboard than that old Melzi board
Why not test with some PVA or HIPS? That second nozzle seems much more useful for dissolvable support material than a second color.
Shame about the double extruder. I've been wanting to break into that stuff as well as increase print size, so this kit looked ideal. Wonder if they'll make version with a single extruder.
Thank you Angus for oiling all of us. I feel fried like in KFC. LOL
256 microsteps, and... that's not true, because either Prusa and B2X300 don't have it because of one reason - that would be impossible to run at acceptable print speeds with atmega2560 onboard. Prusas for example use 16 real microsteps, but they are interpolated to 256 microsteps to make stepper motors work less noisy, but firmware is not able to use those 256 microsteps
They use the same interpolation as the Prusa (16 interpolated to 256), besides being more silent, the movements are also smoother. Although it's using 16 micro steps nothing stops you from using 256 real microsteps (but you'll have to print slower).
Probably can replace the hotend with a trianglelab hotend with a better dual design
Does the oil help by reducing friction in the Bowden tube? I would imagine a tube that long would have a bunch of friction.