If Your Circuit Breaker Makes a Buzzing Sound 🔥 Fix It Quick!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 31 дек 2022
- Circuit breakers don't last forever & sometimes they can die slow and painful deaths. Learn what you need to know to stay safe. If you hear noises like I did don't wait to fix the problem. See what happened to me and why this circuit breaker died very strangely.
If you want to see how I changed a 15amp breaker with nuisance tripping check out my video here: • How To Replace or Chan...
Cheap volt meter: amzn.to/3lIYyQA
Volt detector pen: amzn.to/3ggLOQ8
This is to help you with your problem and point you in the right direction. YOU are responsible for what you do and determining what you are capable and feel safe doing.
I hope this video is helpful and may solve your problem and help you.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Silver Cymbal assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Silver Cymbal recommends safe practices when working on machines and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Silver Cymbal. 
Хобби
Thanks for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE - Be sure to watch the end where I dissect the breaker! - Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/silvercymbal
Out of curiosity, what level of protection do those latex gloves add? Do they insulate your hands?
Good video, I would like to offer some feedback however. I spent an entire career in the electrical/electronic industry manufacturing these same type of products (different brands). Please, please always recommend that the main breaker of the panel be shutoff before replacing a breaker, the slightest contact with live bus bar will lead to disaster. Second, while I appreciate you are taking precaution to wear some type of glove, those are not the gloves to be wearing when working on this equipment. Even a tiny pinhole in the glove can lead to catastrophic results, made even worse by the fact your hands tend to sweat in latex gloves, therefore please use proper electrical gloves that are readily available at Home Depot or any of the big box stores. Third, that breaker clearly saw an overload condition for an extended period, not quite enough to trip the breaker but enough to cause the components to fail over time. It looks like you have a new appliance so I suspect the prior home owner had an old washer/dryer that were not operating properly. Fourth, always install a surge suppression device in your panel to provide whole home protection, the vast majority of surges are generated within the home vs. external sources. Every time an appliance, furnace, A/C unit kicks in they create surges in your system because they all contain electric motors. Electric motors have an initial inrush current of 6-8X their normal running amperage, for example if you have a 3 amp motor it will produce upwards of 24 amps or more during startup for a very brief surge period. Surge suppression on your panel will absorb those surges and extend the life of electronics and even light bulbs.
PS: I really do like your channel and the quality of your videos, you get to the point and avoid gimmicks like AMSR sounds! Nice work
The gloves aren't there for electrical protection, its for visibility on camera. The other feedback is all very good.
As an electrical engineer, I second all your recommendations, particularly the one about turning off the main breaker before touching anything. I felt this point was glossed over too lightly: "If you're really concerned, go ahead and turn off the main circuit breaker" Strongly disagree: There is no circumstance that a homeowner should work on a live panel, and even qualified personnel should only do so only if strictly necessary and wearing proper PPE. Electrical shock isn't a joke, even at 120 volts L-G, and an arc flash can be very dangerous.
That is 100% not what a surge suppressor does. It does not limit inrush, start up, or LR current. For the sake of the industry and science, I really hope you aren't actually a life-long electrical engineer.
@@ewicky That was going to be my comment as well. The typical Type-2 SPD handles transient *voltage* spikes. They are typically just a couple of cheap metal oxide varistors, which function by acting like a voltage-based switch. Connected from hot to ground (for example), it normally sits there with high impedance (off) below the clamping voltage (usually 300V+.) If the voltage exceeds that set value, it 'switches on' and clamps the voltage by shorting it to ground. In doing so, it dissipates current (that's the current rating for the SPD), but it in no way clamps based on the current flowing in your panel or from any of your loads. (it couldn't, because it's not connected in series with any of the loads)
@@edprior2821 'Qualified personnel' work on live panels every day. We can't shut down entire buildings just to work on one branch circuit. And 'the slightest contact with live bus bar will lead to disaster' is not accurate. The current needs a path, and unless another part of your body is grounded you'll feel nothing. I've shown this to folks many times.
I would definitely shut off the entire panel every time
Always a good idea for safety
"And if your really concerned, go ahead turn of your main breaker"
That is a funny sentence. I actually laughed when I heard them say it and immediately when to the comments to see if others did as well.
Good for you
ditto. people don't because they have electric clocks. which kills them.
Real men work with live wires.
Last year it was raining so bad that my basement got flooded. And that wasn't the big deal cus i had a pump and it was keeping up with the inflow. At 4am a lightning hit an antenna that i had installed for internet. It blew basically everything that was connected through wired ethernet. And the lightning was so intense it blew apart the whole house gfci. So at 5am . I was handling live 240v mains 3 phase wire (415 across phases), taking each one of them off and then connecting it to the other side to bypass the gfci.
It was a heck off a job to do with some pliers and screwdriver.
I could not turn the live feed off cus the main braker panel was in the basement and that place was flooded . All in all that lightning had cost me 3000$ worth of equipment and had to replace everything. Now i have fiber optic isolation for the wireless bridge.
Definitely very scary! Glad to see what happened on the inside
Definitely, at least I know my money was well spent on this repair!
Yep, my old 50 year old Square D panel circits started to fail one after another. They never made a noise like this, but they would easily trip all the time on a light load. breakers don't last forever. I ended up doing an entire panel upgrade.
If I’d make a suggestion - the manufacturer lists a specific torque spec for each wire size used on the side of each breaker. Definitely use a torque screwdriver as you’ll be surprised at how tight they need to be. Nice presentation and my favorite part is the dissection of the old part.
Eh just get it tight enough you strip out the screw head or the threads and you'll be fine. The torque specs are really just guidance based on some to satisfy people who have to ask how tight something should be. Most of the torque specs you legit see in the world are actually just made up.
@@nevoyu nice reply :). My only argument to your comment is that you can damage a device of too tight. The notion of torque spec is based on a design point of stress vs. too loose. My goodness, I have some Eaton breakers that will strip below the torque value.
@@nevoyu some people really go too far with the torque specs. If they need to ask for torque specs for something so trivial, I wouldn't even trust them to set and operate such a tool in the first place.
@@nevoyu You legit just made that "fact" up.
@@amg863 But this isn't trivial. The fact you see it is trivial leads me to believe you shouldn't be working with electrical equipment.
Had worked for 23 years as a major appliance tech. Always check the screws to make sure they are tight. Turn off the breaker first. Feeling the breaker to see if it's heating up is also a good way to check it. If it gets hot, replace it. As he said, check the appliance outlet. On a 220 volt dryer or electric stove, pull plug and see if blades on male side of plug are darkened, pitted or burned. If so you must replace the cord and the outlet. Just replacing the cord and not the outlet too will just ruin the new cord. Also make sure the cord connections are tight and not burned on appliance.
Hey bud everytime I flick my breaker switch back on a spark happens can you tell me what's the problem and how to fix it. Please
@@wingallowingallomy3909 Where is the spark coming from. If it comes from the breaker, replace the breaker.
@so I have a question, had a completely burnt out breaker for my A/C.. changed the breaker but I’m noticing it’s getting really hot and tripping out especially on the hot days. 1) can it be because the wattage on the a/c unit is different from the breaker inside? I just changed it to the same ampage as the previous breaker 2) what is causing it to be super hot?
@@ronjon2125 If that's a new breaker and the connection to it is tight, about all that's left is excessive current draw. Is the breaker the proper amperage? You need to find out what the current draw for your AC is to see if the breaker is sufficient. A malfunction in your AC could be causing excessive current draw.
What if it’s the ac?
The only thing i would add is check the load and verify that you're not drawing to much current. Great catch and video!!
That is a great idea and I agree I should have done that. I will double check that with my clamp on meter to make sure the dryer is operating correctly.
I really love your videos. All of them are well thought out and very useful. Many thanks for the channel and a happy and prosperous 2023 to you and your family.
Nice. Should really be using an insulated electrician screwdriver though, or wrap the one you have with electrical tape to prevent any accidental shorting.
Thanks for opening up the old part. The visual was awesome! It drove home the point, and seeing the point visually will be hard to forget :)
Great content as usual👍🏻 I will add my voice to the others that turning off the main shouldn't have been presented as optional. The failing of the wise is that they often forget the foolishness of the inexperienced.
Also one thing I would add is most or all manufacturers have in their specs to replace the breaker if it trips. 😜 I would not necessarily myself but that is what they recommend. You're video was great. One thing to note is to torque your connections to spec too and each breaker has the number of inch pounds. If you have a torque screwdriver 🪛 use it. It is a great tool. I bought a Neiko torque screwdriver off Amazon years ago. I like it. Great video. Happy New Year.
Jeff - Licensed Journeyman Electrician Sunny Central Florida
Partially correct. Many say to replace if subjected to REPEATED short circuit faults or extended overloads. They will be ok with several overload trips over extended time.
The rule of thumb I use is if a breaker is tripped, I will reset it ONCE. If it trips immediately, (and especially if there is a pop or buzzing sound) I will not try it a second time and will consider replacement once the fault is fixed. If it trips on overload (usually will delay before tripping again) I will try removing loads then reset a second time. If it trips a third time after load shedding, will consider replacement if the breaker is old, or gets warm when holding load under 80% of rating.
I like to use a thermal imagery camera to inspect electrical panels to see if there is a temperature differential between the breakers. It’s an easy way to quickly determine if a breaker is failing and needs to be replaced.
A mechanical circuit breaker gets warm through normal functioning. You have to know the specifications to know what temperature would be abnormally warm.
In normal operation a mechanical circuit breaker gets warmer as more current passes through it. In the breaker mechanism, a metallic part changes length with the increase in temperature. Once hot enough the length changes enough to trip the breaker switch off.
A thermal camera will tell you which mechanical breakers are passing more current, versus the ones that have less load. To make the call that one is failing based on temperature would require knowing what temperature is too hot for normal operation.
You videos are really informative, and produced with excellence.
You include many points in a short video, with clear images to exemplify what your are talking about.
Thank you very much!
Thank you very much! I appreciate the nice words
Sometimes the buss bar is arching with the contacts of the breaker. Definitely inspect that as well. Every time I have heard that sound, lights flickering etc, it's been a bad bar. Repairing it is sometimes a double breaker and cancelling the bad spot, but if that's not possible, it means a new panel.
Thank you silver cymbal. I have literally the exact same problem, panel and breaker! Thank you for helping me with this problem!!!
Fantastic explanation. Loved getting into the breaker. Just subbed.
THANK YOU!!! YOU JUST SAVED MY FAMILY'S LIFE AND MY HOUSE!!!
Really good one sir thank you much !
I hear your point about checking the wires are tight, but honestly I wouldn't even consider touching a screwdriver to those terminals while the breaker is attached to the bus. If something is wrong on the inside, (which it is for sure, and the new one could be defective) they could be scraping your body off the opposite wall. I personally recommend removing the breaker first, then using the widest blade slotted screw driver that will fit to loosen the wires, and then using that same driver to torque the screws down tight on the wires before placing the new breaker back in. Use an insulated needle nose on the insulation of the wires to check their snugness. If they are loose, pull the breaker again and re-tighten.
Or use and insulated screwdriver and tighten it in place
I have heard a humming sound out my box for about 3 to 5 seconds and it's 24y/old, I will have to get this checked. 🤜🤛
I own houses that have breakers that are coming up on 60 years old. They still work. Bulldog pushmatic.
There's nothing wrong with square D. I own houses with them as well and that's a fine panel. The only problem with modern breakers is the oil in them sometimes gets hard. It'll trip. Then you won't be able to reset it. You'll have to replace it.
My house's kinda old already, some times I can hear a louder humming sound than normally while walking past the electric board, anyway there are cables in there circled up kinda like reels, my father says it is because of that, he has more knowledge on this than me so I assume it's fine?
How did you trace which one?
Going to be changing my garage breaker for it does the same as you said hums. Thank you for this video
I think there’s a torque specs for the terminals
Great video, thanks for the details.
Interesting. Thanks for info.
Just found a breaker making a similar sound as yours, since I had watched your video when it came out, I was able to remember that this was a problem and switched out the breaker. When I took the old one apart, it had the same discoloration on the wire as yours did.
Man! Great advice. I've got a 240 breaker that feeds a sub panel that makes a strange noise. Definitely going to check that!
QO’s are top of the class out of all the companies and styles I see more QO’s from the 50’s out there still there a robust panel
Thank you for the information
I had the circuit breaker for my dryer failed in 2018. 240 volts going were going into the breaker, but only 75 volts were coming out. The failure of said breaker took out the thermal fuse on dryer which also controls the motor, which i was able to replace myself. That stupid fuse was 18 bucks at my local appliance parts store! I'm glad that my dad showed me how to use a multi meter when I was around 9 - 10 years old. There were no unusual noises being made that I could hear either. This breaker was installed around 2003 during a switch from LP gas to electric
excellent home safety video A++
Invest in insulated screwdrivers. Yes they cost 20$ but you never know when your hand will slip and touch a shaft that may be live.
Wow 😮 very informative video.
Just fixed this exact same issue in my 50 plus year old panel. Issues presented itself as dimming and surging lights on one circuit. Trip to the breaker panel revealed the same noise in the video. Replaced the breaker and issues solved. I also performed a post mortem analysis on the problem breaker and it it looked like maybe there was some corrosion on the contact points inside the breaker.
Very good that you fixed it!. I am surprised how breakers really aren't sealed at all, while not needing to be waterproof if you live near the ocean they must take a beating.
@@SilverCymbal Exactly. Didn’t confirm corrosion was the root cause, but didn’t see much burning similar to what your breaker autopsy looked like. Also thinking maybe the internal contacts points became loose over time. All guesses, but drilled out the rivets on the breaker to get inside just as you did. A voltage test on the circuit reflected a range under increasing loads of about 85 volts to 122 volts. Dimming and surging grew worse under heavier load. Sounded like the breaker was cooking and popping at the panel!
@@SilverCymbal Breakers cannot be fully sealed, as the arc formed at the contacts creates a very intense heat and a brief but very strong pressure spike. A totally sealed breaker could/would explode into shrapnel under a fault condition.
Large power utiltity breakers that were oil filled had pressure vents to help minimize risk of explosions, the newer SF4 breakers are sealed pressurized gas that actually prevents or quenches an arc in milliseconds, so the pressure caused by the arc is reduced/eliminated.
good valuable video, thanks bud
👍👍👍 Wishing a happy healthy and prosperous New Year to you and your family.
Thank you
Our house is 45 years old and only one breaker has ever stopped working and it just wouldn't reset but I've never had any breaker make an asking noise despite most of them being as old as the house which was built in 1978.
Tighten the circuit breaker terminals to the torque specifications, provided by the manufacturer.
I've had exactly a same situation. One of the c. breakers was making buzzing sound when electric stowe was in use.... After cpl of years I've had it enough and replaced it by myself.
At a time of replacement, that c. breaker was 20 yrs old.
Others are still silent and in use ( abt 25 yrs at this moment).
I never even looked at my circus breaker. Sounds fun...I'm going in.
I agree with you. I also would try to not replace things if we can somehow make them work a bit longer but here safety comes first. We should not be taking any chances with circuit breakers!
there is no way to repair a circuit breaker. if it goes bad it goes bad. most people having them go bad are 50-60 years old or older, that's way beyond their service life. the reason people piss and moan about replacing them is each breaker will cost about $60-$100 each, it's a lot of money and people see this little chunk of plastic and can't understand it costs so much.
i get all kinds of used and vintage ones for less than a quarter each at the junk store because I like to collect them and preserve the history, but i'd never in a million years install one in my house.
Hey! this is the exact same failure of a breaker I saw in my own!
First breaker I ever replaced actually. Made that same exact noise too.
It worried me for awhile, but I shrugged it off at first, only for it to completely fail.
I eventually mustered up the courage to learn as much as I could not just about replacing a breaker, but about the electrical system we use in the US too.
But it was kinda cool too see what could've happened on the inside of the breaker. Might have to open mine up too (I kept the broken breaker)
And I'm sure you have already heard from the other 143 commenters that's it's pretty ill-advised to work on a box like that with the main breaker open, one wrong move and it could've been game over! I already know you know this, but it's important to make sure that your viewers understand that fact, since novice me a couple years ago might've stumbled upon this and tried to do a breaker repair with the main breaker closed*.
Also, you'd think they'd break more often being named "breakers", huh?
@@jovetj Oh whoops, I got mixed up there
I meant to say closed there lol
But I'm sure it is if you're comfortable with working with it and have proper safety gear
That's pretty concerning, never seen this issue quite like you describe or show. Do you have a thermal IR gun to take a look for any hot spots elsewhere in the panel?
I have a dimmer in my house that when it's turned on makes the panel buzz, but it's more of a high pitched whine. You can also have a low pitched buzzing noise if you have a lot of current draw through a breaker or panel. Zapping sounds like he had, are not normal though.
Il bet that the contacts were not fully pressed together iside the breaker, a manufacturing defect. This would be the cause of the arcing & overheating. I had the exact same breaker
at my sisters house just drop one leg to the electric dryer. I went & got a new breaker & everything was ok. You were VERY SMART by checking these BUSBAR CONNECTIONS
because on many panels the busbars are made of aluminum. Ive often seen where the connection between the breaker & the busbar is FRIED. This is when you would need
a new panel. I was an electrician for 40 years. I used primarily Square D QO & when money was an issue a Siemens panel with the COPPER BUS OPTION. I ABSOLUTELY
HATE ALUMINUM BUSBARS. Ive had to replace so many burned up panels because of this issue. I was most comfortable installing the two panels I mentioned above.
Its always better to shut off all the breakers first before shutting off the main because every time you open the main under a load you pull an arc on those contacts
which will weaken this master main breaker over time & it will start tripping for no reason at all. I had a customer that if she ran a vacuum cleaner the 100 amp
main breaker would trip thinking it was overloaded. When I took it apart I could see that the CONTACTS were dirty from this breaker being turned off under
a load way too often. This is why I recommend that you turn off all the smaller breakers first then the larger ones for subpanels ect and then last but not
least then you can open the master main without causing harm to the contacts.
That sound terrifies me. I once had a dryer cable burst into flame after making that sound, Luckily it was right next to the main panel and I was able to kill the breaker and stomp out the flame, then tore the whole circuit out. The wire was originally hanging loose way out of the wall and must have gotten damaged at some point. I later talked to the homeowner and he casually said that it's DONE THAT BEFORE!!!
Great to know !
One of my customers said he is going to call the utility company to shut off the entire neighborhood so we can replace some receptacles and breakers in his house 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂I laughed and I said step aside mister mom and get your check book ready 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
I had an electrician ask my power company to shut us off at the pole so he could move the meter a few years ago. They laughed at him, literally. It was an old house with the electric meter in the cellar, real PITA letting them in every month to read it. We had a fuse box replaced with breakers anyway, he figured he'd move the meter. He wound up doing it live but liek he said, he could leave it disconnected at the meter while he swapped out the fuse box for a breaker box and it would be the safest one he'd done then connect the meter when he was done. It worked out.
Hola señor Silver Cymbal I just wanted to say hello 👋 and to let you know that I had enjoyed all your videos last year and this 2023 I will keep supporting your channel watching the videos to the end give like and comment sharing with friends and family and I want to share some with you that already happened in different times of my years working in remodeling and the last time was in my own house… long story short when you issued the noises in the breaker I had the same noises in my kitchen light switch and let me tell you what was causing it and the problem was 🐜 ANTS yep my teens have the problem of leaving cups with juice and you know ants love that well some how they found a way to get in the kitchen from the outside wall and somehow they got inside the switch box so I heard the noise and the lights were flickering and I remember that from the past I was remodeling a house and the kitchen had the same problem so when I removed the switch plate I found a cluster of tiny roaches 🪳 around the electrical conectora of the switch and that was the problem I guess the roaches arch the electricity and causing the lights to flicker and the switch to make those buzzing noises replaced with a new one pest control exterminated all the bugs and problems solved and the problem in my kitchen I removed the switch plate or cover and I found a cluster of black ants all over the switch connectors and I just cleaned it with the vacuum cleaner and let it air for few hours and it’s working properly perfect flickering stopped and the buzzing noise stopped and that’s what happened to me in my own experience I wish I had all that on video so I have proof of the problem so if you think you can give me a scientific answer for that I will love to hear you keep up the great work señor Silver Cymbal 😊
Happy New year :)
For single wire assignment, the wire should always be placed on the left side of the screw. This way it will be pulled in when tightening. On the right side it is rather pressed out.
🎯 I thought the exact same thing...in fact it looked as if they did twist out a bit as they were tightened
This, this and this. Dude is smart but even the smallest mishaps can cause a ton of damage.
He demonstrated placing the wire between the clamping plates, so I don't think that is the case here.
Makes no difference with these clamps. These breakers can have two wires on each terminal.
It isn't pulled or pushed when the screw is tightened. It is secured by a hold down plate.
I had to replace a 30amp for my package AC unit in my square D panel a few months ago for the same reason. It was making similar sizzling noises, but it was also getting hot to the touch. Not hot enough to burn you, but hot enough to make you pull your hand away quick if you touched it while power was going through it. Non of the other breakers were even warm at all. That was the only one. I went and bought a new one, swapped it out. Took a few minutes. The peace of mind knowing that issue is fixed is great. I am fortunate enough to have a service disconnect outside by the meter, so I can shut off all power going into the house which makes it super safe to work in the panel if I need to.
Is it possible that this breaker issue was also consuming more electricity than necessary and inflating the electric bill?
You could definitively hear the arcing inside that breaker and it was about time to change it. This was a good video, but I would recommend to turn off the entire panel before working on it, as other people also have commented (also look out for other sources like solar systems etc and turn them off). Then it is best to make sure there is no voltage anymore using appropriate tools. And most of all: if you are not absolutely sure what you do and how this works, get a certified professional to repair the panel for you. Bad connections for example can cause fire and electricity can be lethal if somethings goes wrong. There are some other comments explaining a little bit more things to consider. Be safe out there!
I had one making that sound when we moved into a new house. Turns out the wires connected to it were loose. Tightened 'em up and the sound went away. 15 years later when we moved out it was still working fine.
Have a Sense Power Monitor installed which uses a set of Clamps to monitor the Wattage used @ the Main Breakers/Main Service Panel.
Been thinking a "Buzz" I've been hearing is from those Clamps but then again they might be masking the fact that it could be that or a combination of various breakers reaching their end of life? Suspect my Water Heater and Dryer Breakers are two of the "Hardest Working" Breakers with almost daily regular heavy use year round...
Even though the Water Heater is on a Time of Use Timer (meaning it is Off for maybe 12 hours a Day) I suspect it and the Dryer would be the ones to show the most damage from actual use. They tend to see heavy use at the same/similar times so because of their age it might not be a bad investment just to swap 'em out (or at least have a spare handy if needed when the day comes)
You should make a video on how to install a sub panel.
What should you do for a manufactured home circuit breaker where the entire panel is fixed and you can't replace individual breakers?
What is the make and model of your panel? Have never heard of this.
When buying a new house? Checking the age of the electrical panel and its breakers by the prospective home owner is a must. It helps if you have an IR camera for your cellphone so you can check the panel out to see if anything is overheating.
Thank you for your video.
Yeah, turn off the mains. Safer.
Most of the time the wire needs to be tighten down. I found a wire that was just sitting on the breaker (like right on top of where its supposed to go in). Because they stripped out the screw
Nice reminder thanks. Have a Buzz that seems related to my Water Heater and/or Dryer Circuits that I should investigate.
On a related note, Recall a while ago after some "minor" Panel work noticing my Water Heater Timer (Time of Use Digital Timer) wasn't working anymore (No manual override). Thought for sure it was horrible timing it chose just that time to die. Apparently my "minor" work did somehow result in one of the Water Heater's wires actually coming loose from the Breaker. (Was likely sitting "loose" inside the breaker for a while, glad it didn't cause a more serious problem/surprise)
Will definitely try and monitor for heat,buzz, and check the torque on any "suspect" breakers and replace accordingly.
Important video for recently or year old EV charging system. Go back in, check QC. Do this routinely.
You said to replace the breakers with the same brand/model. I heard something about challenger breakers which, if I'm not mistaken, need to be replaced with a compatible model of another brand.
That sound from good breaker is the sign of triggered thermal protection on slight overcurrent. Thermal protection allow breaker to pass such current for minute or so, before circuit break.
Outdoor breakers work different in really cold weather. 15 amp breaker supply enough to run a block heater ,battery heaters, interior heater. Plus the extention cord is warm enough to melt the ice and snow. So the cord is trapped in soild ice till spring.
I would put a wattage meter or a amp meter on the dryer circuit. Is it possible your dryer has a issue, which is drawing more current, which in turn is ruining the breaker.
Thank you. I just bought a camper and nothing worked. The main will make a frying sound before tripping.
I LIKE YOUR WASHER TUNING ON
I had a breaker that was playing the exact sound of my washing machine running like a cheap radio speaker. I called an electrician. He barely touched one of my 220s it tripped and would not reset again. He ended up finding a third one that was also very weak. More recently I had other work done and while they were working I had the entire panel replaced. It was original in this house and would be 40 years old now.
I need to check that breaker on the water heater in Ashland City.
Question: Why terminal screws become loose?
Answer: Creep (or cold flow) is the tendency of a solid material to move or deform under the influence of extreme loading or varying temperature conditions.
People please do not loosen the wires on the circuit breaker before removing the breaker from the panel. Unless you are turning off the main power to your home before doing so. If you loosen the wires before removing the breaker, you run the risk of the wires bouncing around in the panel and making contact with the still hot connections on the inside of the panel.
This is why I like fuses.
Question if a circuit breaker is broken NO power will go through wherever those wires are going to or the room itself will it?
What is with the red thinner wire wirenutted to the thicker wire on the left of the breakers
I highly suggest to anyone looking at doing this that they first purchase a non-contact voltage tester. It's a great fail-safe so you can be sure there is no voltage in what you're working on. Just press the button and point it at various places in the panel. its also handy for replacing switches, outlets, etc.
My federal pacific breakers are great, they will last forever and never trip!
I hope they trip if they need to, otherwise why have them?
The man has a qo load center. I trust him.
"you want to get the exact same breaker that is in your panel" ... YES and NO! Sometimes you get a breaker that is the wrong one that someone had previously replaced... Make sure the breaker you buy is the one the *PANEL* requires. They do have cross reference charts for other brands that will work in your panel but I always prefer using the one the manufacturer recommends.
Funny, this happened to me last week. Luckily, Lowes had one that fit my 40 year old box. Hissing sound is quite offputting.
Hey everyone I’m a youngin in my first home, built just over a year ago and I’m hearing buzzing at the breaker, should I check elsewhere as well? Could a loose connection further a way lead to problems at the main panel? All help is greatly appreciated!
If you are hearing a buzzing at the panel, there is most likely a problem in the panel, but there may be issues elsewhere because of or causing some problem within the panel.
heh heh shocked to learn
good old square D these are good but for some reason they like to do this on the 230 240 volt breakers most of the time i have seen you shut them off and they don’t turn back on or they lose one side and you only have half off your voltage i believe you were having this problem but found it before you lost one leg of power any manufacturer can have problems but i see it more on these breakers most of the time it’s a dryer or a/c condenser or air handler almost always a 30 amp breaker it’s strange i wish they would look into why it happens but i will say this it’s always been a safe contained failure within the breaker i have never needed to do anything but replace the breakers so i guess its a good design and it just happens
Use a torque screwdriver at install and recheck torque annually
When my auxiliary heat on my heat pump come on the breaker would trip i didn't think about that so when the tech told me that is what was wrong and i would have to get an electrician to replace it i went to one of the big hardware stores didn't one like it went to the other ones found one replaced it after a few months it tripped again replaced it and this one has been going well since the first replaced must have had a problem in it but the 2nd has done well cut the main breaker off for safety
There should be concern on using the breaker models specified by the manufacturer. The panelboard is tested with this panel/breaker combo to handle a dead fault, (SCCR or withstand). It is also important to reinstall the door/trim as these breakers shown are pushing in style (not much is holding the breaker in place) and the door helps keep the breaker in place when a fault occurs.
Don't you have to use an insulated screw driver even though the breaker is off? It could slide and touch any live wire or bar unless the main breaker is off which most won't do anyway. Also best practices are wearing proper gloves, not latex and keeping one hand behind when working on live breaker panel
I like the gloves. You should probably use a torque driver.
my moms circuit panel is old as heck and only i think it was conneticut electric makes replacement breakers for it the panel is a old ITE pushmatic panel...i know it should probably be replaced but we are to poor for that and as far as we can tell the panel has been working fine
Do new breaker rattle while being shaking?
My mother is hearing a buzzing sound in every room in her home. It is keeping her up at night. This buzzing sound is the same frequency from one end of the house to the other. She has unplugged all her small appliances and the sound is still there. It’s been going on for almost 2 weeks. What could this be?
Mines well over 30, but it doesn't make a noise. It's in a really good environment though. A cool environment and a stable system. It doesn't like really high voltage devices though
I had one doing that in my moms old house.
I also had two control knobs on my stove so this.
Watching this guy with latex gloves in a panel, wow, so much for arc flash protection
Even turning off the main , you need to confirm there is zero voltage
Main breakers fail too. If your replacing your panel Stay away from push on style breakers, always use bolt on
I never said they were electrical gloves, they are for camera visibility. You wont be finding bolt on breakers for residential panels, commercial yes.
All manufacturers make single phase panels that can be used for residential applications
In your video, you missed the most important step confirming zero voltage
Anytime I'm away on vacation, I shut off the water and all the breaker switches except the one to the refrigerator to limit the chances of anything happening
@@jovetj I turn that off too!
I don't mean to bring it up but this is really bothering me. If it helps 1 person, this complaint is worth it. At 2:40 in the video, your showing the "correct" way to place the wire between the plates. The way the plates are sitting with the wire, the wire is not in the hump created for the placement of the wires. The right wire is truly bad. When under load, the hertz vibration and the heating and cooling of the wire at that location will cause that connection to most likely become loose, create arcing and carbon buildup resulting in loss of power. This result often ends up with a melted wire and a damaged breaker (and possibly damaging the bus bar of the panel, including neighboring breakers). Overall, very positive video. Thank you.
If not sure how tight to get the wires, the breaker should have a torque spec printed on it. It will probably be in in/lb. Use a torque screw driver to tighten the screws and you won't go wrong.
Could just make it German tight - Goodentight. Have to use the accent.
@@robertthomas5906 😂 True. My comment was only for anyone worried about making sure it met the spec. This would guarantee them that they had it correct. The rule I usually hear from electricians is to tighten the screw until you hear it squeak on the wire.
The side of the breaker has a inch pound rating that you are supposed to torque your screw terminals down too. Almost no one ever does. But if you finally do break out a proper torque wrench, you would be shocked to see just how tight the specification is. Most are under-torqued.
Thanks.
I want to share my (rarely used) electric dryer outlet with my Tesla mobile charger using this SWITCHED, Y-splitter cable at Home Depot for 'only' $140.
"30 Amp 250-Volt NEMA 10-30 3-Prong Dryer Plug to 2 NEMA 10-30 3-Prong Dryer Connections with Switch"
I know it's not as good as a dedicated 50A outlet (~$3000? pro install for 75' run up, into, and through a very cramped attic), but is it safe enough...?
PS - I don't drive much and can probably live with a 110V, 12A mobile charger (~4 miles/hour) once a week. But every once in a while it might be nice to have a 240V, 24A charger (16 to 20 miles/hour).
No it is not safe at all. You will overload the 30amp circuit and possibly damage your charger or start a fire.
FFS you can afford a Tesla, do it the right way.
@@turbokatzenburg5732 You realize that this is a disconnecting SWITCH... one or the other, never BOTH.
So even if I set the limit on my Tesla to only charge at 24A, it's still bad because it's a long, continuous use at 24A?
Is 20A significantly safer?
Is it okay on my 12A 110V outlet?
Or should I also lower that to... 9A?
Can I simply feel the wire after an hour or two?
And if it's not hot or even warm, then it's okay?
@@Dave--FkTheDeepstate Yes it is still a bad idea because you will be running a continuous load at 80% of the circuit capacity, which is the absolute maximum allowed by the NEC.
Yes, it is allowed, BUT even the slightest issue (loose or corroded connections, marginal circuit breaker, any surges or voltage issues from the utility, etc.) WILL cause overheating or a fire.
And does the charger lock itself to the lower charge rate by an actual mechanical switch or is it by soft buttons, touchscreen or any other software control? What happens if a power glitch, software error, charger fault or error in communication between the car and charger happens? You will at best trip the breaker, most likely overheat the box store china crap cable switch, or damage your charger (which costs a lot more than 3k, right?)
Finally, what will you do when, not if, you find youself in a situation where you need the FULL charging capacity right now? You will be screwed.
Again, with what you already paid for that Tesla, 3k is chump change to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
Electrical safety is nothing to toy with, for the sake of your safety, that of your family, ( and BTW if your idea were to start a fire your homeowners insurance will not cover it) just suck it up, get that charger installed the right way, and be able to safely enjoy the Tesla.
@@turbokatzenburg5732 Thanks.
I would hope that the Tesla Mobile (EVSE) Charger would protect my car in case of mishap.
I don't think that cable switch is UL-Listed. I can see Allstate weaseling out of homeowners fire damage coverage because of that.
Now that you told me all this, I'll be less tempted to push the amps -- even from my 110V outlet. And rely on the nearby Supercharger, if nec.
PS - I live alone... but will at least get a quote from an electrician for a dedicated 14-50 outlet.