That is absolutely the advice I give to others. We as people need to try things, make mistakes, but it helps to learn from others, and plan ahead to limit those losses. All too often, with social media, we have a lot of fake friends telling us 'you can do it', but we are headed toward disaster because they have no concept about what we are doing or where we are going. (this is also true with business). Wise people surround themselves with knowledgeable people who have walked many different roads.
I agree. When on level ground a bottle jack is so much more stable. I keep the OEM jack and chuck a 4000Kg in the tool draw. Just because 2 jacks, come in handy.
Dan, I am always fascinated with your analysis. So many people have the vision of what their vehicle should be and not what the ultimate goal is. You have a great “begin with the end in mind” mentality.
Dan, as usual, great content. I love your pragmatic approach. So glad you talked about shifting suspension thinking to the end of the build process. I watched another video by an "expert" on how to build an overland vehicle and the first thing recommended was suspension (facepalm). ...another so called expert bluring the lines between offroading and overlanding to the detrement of the novices. Keep up the fantatic work.
Yes, keep the current system and make some mounting points on each of the long sides, then get a tarp with grommets corresponding to the mounting points and attach the tarp on the side the wind or rain or sun is coming from and extend to the ground where you stake it in.
I think the below links are a great solution. It might not be as convenient in some ways as a permanently mounted awning but then again you don't always need to use a tarp every day. This can be stored inside your vehicle so one less thing to be hanging off your roof and placing more weight up high. I really like mine. They even have a screened in version. Reasonably priced solution also. slumberjack.com/roadhouse-tarp/ slumberjack.com/roadhouse-screen-tarp/
Weight IS everything. Explored all over Australia and learned this the hard way too. If you have a light vehicle, so long as to have AT tyres, you don't even need 4wd. I have a briend who did London to Sydney in a 1966 VW Beetle with just slightly bigger tyres. Weight prevents you floating on sand and sinks you deeper in the mud. What would I buy next time. An earlier VW transporter bus with the rear motor.
I couldn't agree more on weight! I need to try to reduce the weight of my van before I restart my trip post COVID. I was shocked to learn I was running close to 12K lbs when I was weighed before going on a ferry. I can't imagine where I'm going to find 1000 lbs to lose. I brought enough tools to rebuild the entire van I think so that is probably the best place to start. Thanks for the video! (I also agree on hi-lift jacks! I never carry one and have never missed not having one.)
Love your videos, I enyoy overloading and I thought I needed something really complicated and expensive to go the next step. but now I see how it could be cheaper and easier following your advice. Weight and aerodinamics are important to me due to fuel economy. now you show me that it is importan for drivability. -Some one mentioned the aluminum bumpers, witch is a great idea, you mentioned the lighter solar cells too, the wheels are steel, I know there are more reliable, but can they be changed to the allow ones? I have never bend any of my allow wheels, but I do not do any extreme. and that is rotation weight that impact much more on gas. Smaller tires? -A more efficient car, like the new jeep with 8 speed or the 2.0 lt turbo engine, will reduce the amount of gas needed for the same range. -Can you swap the 2 batteries for a more efficient battery? - an extra layer of insulation on the fridge, so it will consume less electricity... (but I do not know if you could then use a smaller battery) -How many times did you used the shovel? can you get away with a lighter one? -My Boss took out the air-conditioning unit from his jeep.... :O (he wanted an original jeep experience).... I know that is a bad idea. -A less capable 4x4 should be a little lighter. right? So if you reduce the weight, it would be for the handling of the vehicle, or/and to add more things? keep those videos coming!!!!
Definitely on the fence about hi-lift jacks. On one hand they can be problematic and heavy....but on the other....mine has saved my bacon a few times. If weight wasn't such a consideration I'd have one with me every time....but sometimes you need to make sacrifices.
That's exactly the thing. If weight was no concern I'd have a front and rear winch and a land anchor. I'd have a much bigger fridge, and a freezer. I'd have way more battery capacity, I'd have all kinds of luxuries.... buuuut that's not how this works.
I have a friend who knows how to stick metal together make me a bottle jack adapter kit. Simply a bit of tubing that fits over the top of the piston and attached to that are various saddles, pads, etc. So one wraps around my trailer frame, another cradles my vehicle axles, the last simply has pads that go under the factory lift points on the unibody. Marginal weight/complexity with loads of ease of use and safety. You want to massively upgrade your standard equipment factory jack? Get to a GM dealer and order up a Hummer jack. Not a hi-lift but sure behaves as one!
Awning suggestion: Hi Dan, I know you're probably on your new adventure now in your new rig and your poor JKU is sitting neglected at home but I wanted to take a moment to toss out a suggestion about that little 1250 ARB awning that you haven't been happy with coverage wise. I have a 2500 and will likely add the 1250 on the new Ursa Minor I have on order because while I was in the garage the other day I noticed that the arb side windbreak I purchased for my 2500 is actually also listed as compatible for the 1250. It never seems to be advertised on any sites and I only noticed because right there in bold print on the stuff it comes in it lists "Windbreak Side 2500, 2000, 1250". ARB also makes a front windbreak for the 1250. After reading this the obvious dawned on me that of course the single side wind breaks would be compatible with all widths of their awnings ....they all extend to the same length! 🤦🏻♂️ Anyway, figured I would mention it so your viewers know there are some options other than a (awesome) batwing configuration. There are times where a smaller footprint for an awning is desirable. Here's the ARB part numbers: 813403 - Windbreak SIDE 2500, 2000 1250 813301 - Windbreak FRONT 1250 Maybe this will help you fall back in love with that little ARB awning. Hope you are enjoying your new adventure! Safe travels! 😎
Now we're in complete agreement! My overlanding buddies mess with me cause I don't have steel bumpers, steel rims, winch, highlift jack, I use aluminum skids and so on. They say I'm cheap sometimes. No, not at all. I go very minimalist and very very light! And when I float over sand and soft ground and they're using their winch and jacks and all that cause they sank, they can't figure out why! Hahahaha. (I do carry recovery boards and a small shovel cause they're not very heavy)
totally agree, keep the weight low. I myself have a toyota hzj 78 with only an upgraded suspension, pop up roof, 50 liter water tank and 180 amp extra batteries, simple interior with, very important, a good fridge. But no winch, hi Jack etc. We have already driven more than 50000 km in Africa and never had any problems. No punctures, no broken suspension and no overheated engine Because of your videos I can't wait to go back to Africa.
Good idea to lose the Hi-Lift jack, especially since you have a winch. I got rid of mine a few months ago. I carry a bottle jack and a few blocks of wood, good to go. I'm still trying to figure out other ways to lighten the load.
Ronny Dahl has a good video on the different jacks you can get. And yes he scrapped the hi lift and just Carry’s 2 bottle jacks. Made me just get a good bottle jack as I also have a winch.
Hi Dan, great videos! Here's another awning idea for you... Shadyboy. A local Canadian company in the lower mainland. 49" aluminum housing, but fabric opens up to 10'x6'. Light weight and reasonably priced too. Cheers!
I believe that ARB have a hydraulic jack that is lighter and safer than the hilift. The main use I have for a hilift is to lift the wheel (using the lift mate) when bogged - lift the wheel, pack underneath it, put a maxtrax down, and lower the wheel back down onto the maxtrax. Repeat that on each corner. It beats lying in the mud with a trolly or bottle jack (although you'll want to carry one of those anyway....)
Have fabricator duplicate your front and rear bumpers out of aluminum (including winch mount and rear spare mount) as well as all your skid plates. I don't know if Jeep has already done this, but an aluminum or carbon fiber hood would save lots of weight as well. Anti-lock brakes (?), gut the whole system! You don't need anti-lock brakes off-road. Glass is heavy. No one will know if you replace all your glass other than the windshield with plexiglass.
For shelter, Slumberjack makes a tarp, the Roadhouse, that I have heard good things about. Stores inside the vehicle, takes longer to set up (especially solo), and not as cool as having one permanently on the vehicle; but only weighs 5kgs, is much larger, has many different configurations, and it isn't gonna get stolen off the vehicle. Also super inexpensive. Love the videos Dan!
Valuable advice, as always. Center of weight is key (beside weight itsself). Currently, I am in the process of building an underpowered overland vehicle, hence looking for light materials and chose 9mm casemaker sandwich panels for building the interior. Very light, very durable. Hope to meet you one day on the Old Silk Roads because this is your natural next step to take ;-)
Hi Dan. Suspension and weight is fairly easy to work around. I have a Nissan Patrol Ute and did a GVM upgrade. She is now rated at 3900kgs Max GVM. With a bit of fine tuning I have got a really comfortable ride. Yet with all my gear on the back ( my set up is very similar to yours ) and even when I hook up my caravan ( I live in this full time ) and have the additional 300kgs of tow ball weight ( caravan weighs in at 3000kgs ), I am well within GVM. BTW. My ute is set up this way so I can leave the caravan behind and head off out back for weeks or months on end. 😁
I wanted to make a comment about your awning. I went on a week-long trip along the MABDR in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Granted the rear end is different as I have a hatch and you have a swinging door, but what I did was draped a tarp over the hatch while it was open and had some pre tied paracord at the different corners and a couple tent stakes to anchor it down. It gave me nice wrap around coverage at the back. It wasn't the quickest to set up or disassemble but it was extremely light and it did really well at keeping the weather out and maintaining privacy.
Definitely agree about the high lift jack! If you didn't have a winch it would be a different story, but with the winch, the jack is more liability than asset! Although the 2 items are indivisible, I'd put the third point ahead of the first one. Build the vehicle first, and build the suspension to match. There are replacement axle upgrades for Wrangler, using a Dana 60 rear and full floating Dana 44 up front, so it's possible to go even heavier than you already have...which will use more fuel...
Thank you so much for sharing. I just purchased a low mileage 2001 Toyota Landcruiser Cygnus which is a right hand drive LX470. I am in the planning stages of an overland build for use in here in Canada and the US. I have a 97Landcruiser built for serious offroad use, so I have much to learn about building a overland vehicle. I plan on using an aluminum front bumper and skids to try to save on weight. Thanks for all of the great content.
Another great video. We had our flexible panels fail on our expedition to AK and are now converting to solid panels. I will also be installing a 270 awning on our Gladiator build. If you find a suspension manufacturer that has heavier (not necessarily taller) springs please let us know..
Great video - I’m reconsidering taking a hi-lift jack, winch, fitting diff-guards on my Land Rover re-build as a result of your helpful video - building-out the interior with light-weight aluminium/composite shelving to carry wolf-packs is the way I’m going, really thinking about the weight of everything. Looking forward to see your choice of vehicle for your next trip - looks like the vaccines are on their way, so hopefully, 2021 will allow everyone to get outside and travel a bit more
Excellent, Dan. It's refreshing to hear such a focus on weight, which has been the enemy in our vehicles when off-roading, in our flying, and in our sailing. Weight is often misconstrued as adding 'strength' when in fact its efficient engineering design and materials science that brings optimum strength while minimizing weight. Re: your 'next vehicle', how can you possibly say much about that without nailing down the conditions it must cope with? Waiting makes total sense. (Do we see an on-line auction coming some day...?)
I whole heartedly agree with the principal of weight management and being cognizant of GVWR, however I think the issues you were having have more to do with springs/shocks vs. vehicle weight. I don't really think that being slightly over (especially due to consumables such as food, water, fuel etc.) is a huge concern or means you have to give up handling , especially if you have to make compromises that impact your long term comfort, recoverability and peace of mind. I also subscribe to not building monster trucks for overlanding, and for my truck I upgraded to heavier springs which made the vehicle ride 2.5 - 3 inches total lift and I added racing shocks (King 2.0 in my case but any of the major brands will do) and it improves handling tremendously. I don't have the really expensive options such as clickers on the shocks, or bigger diameters etc., just the basic mid-travel shocks and the reservoir and increased shock oil volume help keep the oil cooler so you don't loose dampening and premature failure due to overheated shocks. For corrugations and general comfort, I let the tire do more of the work and I found with stiffer shocks, the tire pressure needs to come down. I have 34x10.5 tires on 17 in rims BFG KO2 and they do well for me. The truck rides firmer but with properly dialed in shocks it's still quite comfortable. I would think that would greatly reduce the poor handling and wallowing side to side feeling for your Jeep. I don't have a Jeep but if I did I would look at a coilover setup. With regard to the hi-lift, I agree with your decision to ditch it if that's your choice, but I don't think safety is an issue if you are properly trained. It's such a versatile recovery tool, and I have been stuck in sand and water (river) where getting under the vehicle with a bottle jack would have been impossible. Again, I'm not criticizing your decision if you go that route, just saying the safety issues are predictable and I think the tool is safe in the proper hands. Also, I tried the exhaust air lift bag, and I found they are hard to position precisely and they tend to move as they inflate. On one occasion the air jack shifted from under the frame and ended up bending some of the quarter panels which was expensive to repair. Also they get quite dirty and you have to bring that in to your vehicle taking up space and adding dirt. I prefer the exterior mounted jack. The jeep can handle a reasonable amount of weight aft rear axle since the axles are so far back and there is little overhang/weight to begin with. With the ARB awning, I have the longer one and it's side mounted on the vehicle. It's bolted to the truck and has held up well for me even hitting brush and light tree branches. I like the ARB for its lightness and I have the tent/room accessory that is bulky but comes in handy in insect infested areas or rain. For you it might be too bulky, but they also make a sheet than can block the side or multiple sides. I don't have one but I imagine they can be folded flat and stowed away for those times when you have wind, rain or sun coming from the side. Regarding the solar panels, I see nothing wrong with trying other panels if you choose, however for your existing panels I would not think that small of additional profile would effect wind resistance or fuel economy unless you are at HWY speeds for extended periods. Also the frames are aluminum, so not much weight there either. I admire your current build and it seems like one of the best in terms of well thought out choices, comfort, reliability etc. Thank you for the excellent content.
As always great and honest video, thanks for that! Please keep us updated on your weight reduction approach as this would be very interesting and challenging for all of us. Thanks mate
Old man emu makes some great springs for over landing. They only offer about two inches of lift but they have multiple options of springs for a given setup. I’ve used them on two builds and have yet to get a wow that’s awesome from anybody but it works well for carrying weight.
Corrugation? Great word. We use the term "washboard". I heard Canadians can now get into the States by using a loophole in the law. How? Have your Jeep shipped and then fly. Apparently there are companies that handle these details for people with motorhomes and flying into the States is not prohibited, just driving across the border. Anything to escape the snow.
Consider narrow tires with forged wheels, 255/80/R17 (33 inches diameter) tires and 17 inches Method Race 703 trail series wheels, is very tough, lightweight and designed for the tire deflates down to 10psi without fear of tire "de-bead" (yes I know some people don't like forged/aluminum wheels for overlanding) Edit: also consider full floating axle mod for the solid axle
Very informative and helpful . Thanks for sharing this great video . Hope to meet you out on some dirt track or road sometime . Cheers from Steve Stott in Sutherlin Oregon U.S.A.
Chris Shontz of venture4wd overlands all over north America and has a VERY similar setup to yours. I recommend comparing notes with him on future setup ideas.
Dan - check out solar panels made by Lightleafsolar.com here in Saskatoon. Tough, light...2 kg for a 100 watt panel. I have a couple that I use with my fiberglass egg type trailer. He is supplying panels for Escapod and other teardrop manufacturers and recently made some extremely large 1000 watt panels for Solarolla to use on an electric powered RV.
When I drove around Australia and North America in a 1972 VW camper, camping for free, off-grid for 55-60% of the nights, and driving every other day, we never used a leisure battery. Our laptop, camera batteries and interior lighting ran from the vehicle battery. Never had an issue. Are leisure batteries essential?
I love your logic and insight to this hobby/lifestyle. You're unique in that your vehicle isn't loaded w 150k worth of sponsor crap. I love it. I do wonder why w all the talk of weight savings...why do you run steel wheels? Surely an alloy would be far lighter not only the ones rolling but also your spare.
In West Africa I wanted them to be indestructible, because replacements for a Jeep would be very hard to find. Elsewhere in the world I wouldn't run them.
What about adding side covers in the event of rain or other elements to your awning....it will take more time to set it up more than 270 awning,but its way lighter option...but you might have the same problem with 270 too...you have a great video on the topic from Andrew St.Pierre white...sun shifting during the day for instance...and its a way more expensive investment and its gunna add up your fuel consumption....just a thought to consider...
If you are going to do the helium balloon thing, you might also consider letting some air out of your tires. Not sure how many square inches are in your tire, but multiply that times say 10psi lower tire inflation, and you may be talking about a substantial weight savings of unsprung weight. lol
@@TheRoadChoseMe It's also cheaper than helium... At my work (meteorology) we are running into issues with cost when launching weather balloons, and have looked into a few different hydrogen generators. IF we find one good/safe enough for dragging around in the field with the artillery I'll let you know lol.
Interesting analysis. For me Money would be high on the list. Any alteration to the vehicle or extra gadgets would chew up too much of my budget. The more things you have, the more things you have to keep an eye on and they can break down. Charles Lindbergh chose a light single engined aircraft as an engine failure wouldn´t be possible to survive anyway even if it had two or three engines. They were not reliable or powerful enough at the time to do anything positive for him. A second or even a third engine would multiply the risk of having a failure so it wasn´t worth it. Also you must be able to use the things you have (safely). A vehicle that have all things can´t do all things as it would be too heavy so weight and volume will always be a consideration. I rather take less recovery gear and omit a few adventures than have it all and just use it once. A simple matrix for positive and negative sides of every piece of gear can help out with the calculations: is this piece really necessary and what value does it give me? My outdoor activities have taught me to try have three different usages for each item. Things can be combined to achieve the same purpose. Thanks for a very informative and interesting channel!
Thanks for sharing your well-reasoned thoughts on this important topic. You have previously said saving time is not a high priority for making equipment selections -- so it's a little surprising you don't give more consideration to using a tarp instead of an awning. I'm incorporating 1 inch thick-walled aluminum tubing into my roof rack so that up to two pairs of 1/2 x 36 inch rod can be extended out from the sides and back of my SUV for just that purpose. When rain is not a concern but sun and wind are, custom-fit shade cloth will do the job. For your setup similar materials could be devised, and save significant weight.
The high lift jack and bottle jack aren't really interchangeble. The bottle jack pretty much only works under the axle and it's often near impossible to deploy it when off road. If the ground is at all soft you will need a base for it, further reducing the height available under the axle. Their travel is limited so best to go for a telescopic design. It will need to be a low height design to fit under the axle with a flat tyre. I have a 4 tonne, low height, telescopic bottle jack but have never managed to use it off road. The biggest failing of the high lift jack is the tendency to slip off which is incredibly dangerous. Make sure you carry the right adapter to use the official jacking points. I also have welded lugs at strategic points around the vehicle so the jack cannot slip sideways. If you need to jack the vehicle off road it's the only viable option in practice.
What do you think about just getting a lightweight UTV winch....2-3k pounds....maybe one that mounts to a hitch. It's not like we need to drive up a vertical well. A small tug, along with the wheel torque, should get you out of most situations, and it'd be nice to be able to put it out back for self recovery. Use a snatch block if you need more force.
I use a small 3000 pound chain hand winch. It is all we have ever needed. Almost every time I have been stuck, a front winch would have been totally useless anyway. Who wants to get more stuck? LOL
Thanks Dan. It is very helpful to hear what worked, what didn’t, and what you would do differently. I have heard before that the Jeep payload is a serious setback for it’s suitability as a global overlander. Maybe you will need to move to a vehicle with a higher payload?
In theory yes, but it's a pain in the backside to have to do that at a shipping port, and then figure out where in the container you'll put the rack so it won't move around and damage the vehicle. I've seen people do it.
If you buy a bottle jack, generally they will only work vertically, so look for one that will also operate horizontally, just in case. One concern I have with a bottle jack; it gets stored and ignored for long periods, so will its seal have aged and cause the jack to not be useable when I finally go to use it?
Great content and insight as usual. Just curious, why not a Toyota? Unrivaled reliability and sold/serviced around the world. I have a 94 land cruiser since new and by far the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. Granted, a new one is ridiculously expensive but they’re 30 year vehicles at the minimum. Also, the 4Runner is another great option.
They work, though for where I was going in Africa there aren't really models sold in North America that transfer over there well. Also not the same amount of aftermarket support, popup roof, etc. etc. As you said on the price too - I spent less on my Jeep PLUS all expenses all around Africa for three years than the price of a new land cruiser.
Bottle jack is good idea, I share your experience with high lift jacks. My solution to that recovery&weight problem was to have Exhaust Jack Lifting Air Bag Kit. It could lift 5000 kg (11000 pounds) and was much lighter and safer than high lift jack. Just google it and you can find it anywhere. It packs small, light and can help overturning vehicles who can be found on their side at random places. Also when I had winch, I mounted it on bracket that I would connect with profile in profile connection and plug for electricity. I always had it inside the car, and I could mount it both in front and in back of the vehicle. There it was dry and clean and in perfect spot for weight. Also I could access it from all sides of the car and mount it where it was needed.
One thing I've often wondered is how people travel the world on motorbikes yet nearly everyone travelling by car tends to hit or exceed the manufacturer payload. I suppose a lot has to do with comfort and convenience but I don't see many people driving with minimal gear.
When I drove AK-Argentina I met people on motorbikes that had more stuff than I had in my little 2-door Jeep! (I had my backpacking setup, and not much else!)
Thanks for the video Dan. About the awning... Here is an idea I like as an alternative to the expensive 270 degree awnings: ruclips.net/video/92S4Mh9z0xo/видео.html&ab_channel=BREAKFREE4X4 I think the original idea may have come from Australia. I think it's called a "Fred's arm". Not sure how the weight of the swingarm apparatus compares to the weight of a 270. Also not sure about the cost to fab one vs just buying a 270. But, I think it's a cool idea that I'm going to look at more myself. To me, it seems that if the awning ever got damaged on a trip, it would be easier (and cheaper) to replace a small ARB 2500-type awning than a full 270. Anyway, just sharing ideas.
I love your vehicle and your videos. Do you think you can make this crossing in the Democratic Republic of Congo as we did between Lubumbashi and Kinshasa? and in how long? thank you again for your videos
I would love to attempt that route, but I really have no idea how long it would take, how safe it is these days. etc. A lot of research would be required I think!
@@TheRoadChoseMe Sorry for the fat finger syndrom reply loll I hade an othe lift kit. I just swap the control arm (not an obligation) and the coil spring. The spring are around 600$ installed. If you have a warm place to do it, it would be cheaper.
Great videos as usual!!!! Could you please tell me what are the electrical and mechanical components that you had most issues with? How easy was to find spare parts for your Jeep model in Africa and South America? Cheers!
Dude ( I don't know your name ) you have a great channel. Keep it up. And, Merry Christmas from Nebraska, spoken by a Utahan. (I'm attending law school at Creighton).
@@TheRoadChoseMe Dan. It's good to "meet" you. When I get done with law school, pay down the massive debt, I'm going to put together an old truck, and finally be cool like you Overlanders. Before school I worked in a bike shoppe for 15 years, raced professionally on the road, and was able to travel around the USA in pursuit of cycling goals. Traveling for bike racing has given me a taste of travel/exploration that I want to fulfill with a vehicle. Currently I am putting my nose to the grind in an attempt to build a foundation for my family. I'll eventually be able to explore with the advice from folks like you, and I'll do it near my fifties with my teenage children and wife. So far my kids are seven months, and four years. Thanks for the reply by the way, you have a gift of communication, and your channel is very good. I stumbled across it last night, and have watch several of them. Take care!
Have you tested to see how much electricity/energy the panels are producing on a daily/weekly/monthly basis? I have no clue, but with my limited knowledge of that technology, I have wondered does the electrical output outweigh with the added weight and "worry" of one more piece of equipment to maintain/manage over the duration of an extended trip. What is the calculated benefit of a solar system compared to say an extra deep cell battery and say upgraded, aftermarket, performance out put, alternator?
The charge controller gives me all those stats, so yes I know exactly how much it makes. For me, I will *always* have solar. I go into details here ruclips.net/video/L4_QWFYtTNs/видео.html
Your info is amazing!! Thank you so much! Forgive me if I’ve missed the video...but what headlight upgrade did you use? Btw, really excited about your next expedition,,
@@TheRoadChoseMe How did you find LED's in African dust? I've currently got 7" sealed beams (did have Cibie halogens but they filled with water in Africa) and they're not great. I'm glad I've got my Lightforce Striker LED spot lights to back them up, but they cause so much glare if there's the slightest bit of dust.
I drove to Argentina without one, and I never wanted one. But for West Africa I'm really happy I had it, and now I enjoy getting more and more remote likely I'll have one in the future
I was going to ask that as well. I've watched most of Dan's informative and entertaining vids but can't remember if he's using synth rope. I think I almost halved the weight of my winch by changing to synthetic rope and an alloy fairlead. If you keep it covered from the sun you won't get uv degredation and synth is very much safer, easy to splice if you do damage. I have a little (decent) 4500lb towball mounted winch and an adapter for the front of my Defender. This means I can pull myself back the few feet from when I had grip or pull forward if required. It isn't a huge winch but has been able to pull me out a couple of times (using snatch block if required). I teach 4x4 driving here in the UK but have yet to go anywhere exciting!
... I have not made a hard decision on that yet, but IF I do, I'll post on my website, IG and FB and probably here too. Really unsure about that right now.
Regardless if you have a high lift or not you still have to have a jack and the factory ones are so cheesy and undependable and such a small footprint that they push right into any soft ground
@@TheRoadChoseMe bonus feature of the high lift Jack is its excellent in deep mud it would suck to have to lay on your belly to put the Jack underneath the axle in a foot of mud
@Derrick's Adventures - No doubt the hi-lift has a ton of benefits and we can make a list as long as our arms.... but for me... from experience, I don't think it's worth the weight and hassle.
Always shocking when I find out I'm doing my planning correctly....... thanks for the info!
Best overland advice on youtube. So many channels completely miss the mark and don't give a single thought to weight, air resistance, and CG height.
Cheers!
Aluminum skids and bumpers would save you quite a bit of weight and still maintain the protection and winch capabilities.
Very true, and I'll be looking at that for the next vehicle for sure.
@@TheRoadChoseMe What might the next vehicle be mate?
Better than learning from mistakes, is learning from others' mistakes. Thank you very much for sharing this information.
That is absolutely the advice I give to others. We as people need to try things, make mistakes, but it helps to learn from others, and plan ahead to limit those losses. All too often, with social media, we have a lot of fake friends telling us 'you can do it', but we are headed toward disaster because they have no concept about what we are doing or where we are going. (this is also true with business). Wise people surround themselves with knowledgeable people who have walked many different roads.
They make extensions for bottle jacks for lifted vehicles, way safer than a hi-lift.
I agree. When on level ground a bottle jack is so much more stable.
I keep the OEM jack and chuck a 4000Kg in the tool draw. Just because 2 jacks, come in handy.
Dan, I am always fascinated with your analysis. So many people have the vision of what their vehicle should be and not what the ultimate goal is. You have a great “begin with the end in mind” mentality.
Cheers Steven, I hope it helps you figure out what you need!
I totally agree with your remarks re hi-lift jack. I leave it behind now. Well said
You have the most interesting videos for over landing on the web. I learn a lot. You make me look at things I never considered. Thanks
Dan, as usual, great content. I love your pragmatic approach.
So glad you talked about shifting suspension thinking to the end of the build process. I watched another video by an "expert" on how to build an overland vehicle and the first thing recommended was suspension (facepalm). ...another so called expert bluring the lines between offroading and overlanding to the detrement of the novices.
Keep up the fantatic work.
for awning just use a Tarp with some prepared mounting points on the car; keep the poles
You beat me to it
Yes, keep the current system and make some mounting points on each of the long sides, then get a tarp with grommets corresponding to the mounting points and attach the tarp on the side the wind or rain or sun is coming from and extend to the ground where you stake it in.
I think the below links are a great solution. It might not be as convenient in some ways as a permanently mounted awning but then again you don't always need to use a tarp every day. This can be stored inside your vehicle so one less thing to be hanging off your roof and placing more weight up high. I really like mine. They even have a screened in version. Reasonably priced solution also.
slumberjack.com/roadhouse-tarp/
slumberjack.com/roadhouse-screen-tarp/
@R E I didn't think of the hammock, as with my weight, I won' atttach it to the car - he could do it
Weight IS everything. Explored all over Australia and learned this the hard way too. If you have a light vehicle, so long as to have AT tyres, you don't even need 4wd. I have a briend who did London to Sydney in a 1966 VW Beetle with just slightly bigger tyres. Weight prevents you floating on sand and sinks you deeper in the mud. What would I buy next time. An earlier VW transporter bus with the rear motor.
I couldn't agree more on weight! I need to try to reduce the weight of my van before I restart my trip post COVID. I was shocked to learn I was running close to 12K lbs when I was weighed before going on a ferry. I can't imagine where I'm going to find 1000 lbs to lose. I brought enough tools to rebuild the entire van I think so that is probably the best place to start. Thanks for the video! (I also agree on hi-lift jacks! I never carry one and have never missed not having one.)
Love your videos, I enyoy overloading and I thought I needed something really complicated and expensive to go the next step. but now I see how it could be cheaper and easier following your advice. Weight and aerodinamics are important to me due to fuel economy. now you show me that it is importan for drivability.
-Some one mentioned the aluminum bumpers, witch is a great idea, you mentioned the lighter solar cells too, the wheels are steel, I know there are more reliable, but can they be changed to the allow ones? I have never bend any of my allow wheels, but I do not do any extreme. and that is rotation weight that impact much more on gas. Smaller tires?
-A more efficient car, like the new jeep with 8 speed or the 2.0 lt turbo engine, will reduce the amount of gas needed for the same range.
-Can you swap the 2 batteries for a more efficient battery?
- an extra layer of insulation on the fridge, so it will consume less electricity... (but I do not know if you could then use a smaller battery)
-How many times did you used the shovel? can you get away with a lighter one?
-My Boss took out the air-conditioning unit from his jeep.... :O (he wanted an original jeep experience).... I know that is a bad idea.
-A less capable 4x4 should be a little lighter. right?
So if you reduce the weight, it would be for the handling of the vehicle, or/and to add more things?
keep those videos coming!!!!
Definitely on the fence about hi-lift jacks. On one hand they can be problematic and heavy....but on the other....mine has saved my bacon a few times. If weight wasn't such a consideration I'd have one with me every time....but sometimes you need to make sacrifices.
That's exactly the thing. If weight was no concern I'd have a front and rear winch and a land anchor. I'd have a much bigger fridge, and a freezer. I'd have way more battery capacity, I'd have all kinds of luxuries.... buuuut that's not how this works.
Best overlanding advice on the tube! Born of experience.
Wow, thanks!
I have a friend who knows how to stick metal together make me a bottle jack adapter kit. Simply a bit of tubing that fits over the top of the piston and attached to that are various saddles, pads, etc. So one wraps around my trailer frame, another cradles my vehicle axles, the last simply has pads that go under the factory lift points on the unibody. Marginal weight/complexity with loads of ease of use and safety. You want to massively upgrade your standard equipment factory jack? Get to a GM dealer and order up a Hummer jack. Not a hi-lift but sure behaves as one!
Awning suggestion: Hi Dan, I know you're probably on your new adventure now in your new rig and your poor JKU is sitting neglected at home but I wanted to take a moment to toss out a suggestion about that little 1250 ARB awning that you haven't been happy with coverage wise.
I have a 2500 and will likely add the 1250 on the new Ursa Minor I have on order because while I was in the garage the other day I noticed that the arb side windbreak I purchased for my 2500 is actually also listed as compatible for the 1250.
It never seems to be advertised on any sites and I only noticed because right there in bold print on the stuff it comes in it lists "Windbreak Side 2500, 2000, 1250". ARB also makes a front windbreak for the 1250.
After reading this the obvious dawned on me that of course the single side wind breaks would be compatible with all widths of their awnings ....they all extend to the same length! 🤦🏻♂️
Anyway, figured I would mention it so your viewers know there are some options other than a (awesome) batwing configuration. There are times where a smaller footprint for an awning is desirable.
Here's the ARB part numbers:
813403 - Windbreak SIDE 2500, 2000 1250
813301 - Windbreak FRONT 1250
Maybe this will help you fall back in love with that little ARB awning.
Hope you are enjoying your new adventure! Safe travels! 😎
Now we're in complete agreement!
My overlanding buddies mess with me cause I don't have steel bumpers, steel rims, winch, highlift jack, I use aluminum skids and so on. They say I'm cheap sometimes. No, not at all. I go very minimalist and very very light!
And when I float over sand and soft ground and they're using their winch and jacks and all that cause they sank, they can't figure out why! Hahahaha.
(I do carry recovery boards and a small shovel cause they're not very heavy)
Right on
totally agree, keep the weight low. I myself have a toyota hzj 78 with only an upgraded suspension, pop up roof, 50 liter water tank and 180 amp extra batteries, simple interior with, very important, a good fridge. But no winch, hi Jack etc. We have already driven more than 50000 km in Africa and never had any problems. No punctures, no broken suspension and no overheated engine
Because of your videos I can't wait to go back to Africa.
Good idea to lose the Hi-Lift jack, especially since you have a winch. I got rid of mine a few months ago. I carry a bottle jack and a few blocks of wood, good to go. I'm still trying to figure out other ways to lighten the load.
Ronny Dahl has a good video on the different jacks you can get. And yes he scrapped the hi lift and just Carry’s 2 bottle jacks. Made me just get a good bottle jack as I also have a winch.
Hi Dan, great videos! Here's another awning idea for you... Shadyboy. A local Canadian company in the lower mainland. 49" aluminum housing, but fabric opens up to 10'x6'. Light weight and reasonably priced too. Cheers!
Thanks for the info
I believe that ARB have a hydraulic jack that is lighter and safer than the hilift. The main use I have for a hilift is to lift the wheel (using the lift mate) when bogged - lift the wheel, pack underneath it, put a maxtrax down, and lower the wheel back down onto the maxtrax. Repeat that on each corner. It beats lying in the mud with a trolly or bottle jack (although you'll want to carry one of those anyway....)
Have fabricator duplicate your front and rear bumpers out of aluminum (including winch mount and rear spare mount) as well as all your skid plates. I don't know if Jeep has already done this, but an aluminum or carbon fiber hood would save lots of weight as well. Anti-lock brakes (?), gut the whole system! You don't need anti-lock brakes off-road. Glass is heavy. No one will know if you replace all your glass other than the windshield with plexiglass.
Another great video!!! Keep them coming. I enjoy living vicariously through you.
Thank you! Will do!
Really looking forward to both the build and the trip!
You and me both!!! (LOTS of irons in the fire. Something will work!)
I used a bottle jack. Done
Hopefully Someone @Jeep will see this ! Love your content ! I have learned a ton . Thanks ,Much Appreciated!
For shelter, Slumberjack makes a tarp, the Roadhouse, that I have heard good things about. Stores inside the vehicle, takes longer to set up (especially solo), and not as cool as having one permanently on the vehicle; but only weighs 5kgs, is much larger, has many different configurations, and it isn't gonna get stolen off the vehicle. Also super inexpensive. Love the videos Dan!
Stores inside the vehicle is almost immediately a no for me. Interior storage space is at such a premium!
Valuable advice, as always. Center of weight is key (beside weight itsself). Currently, I am in the process of building an underpowered overland vehicle, hence looking for light materials and chose 9mm casemaker sandwich panels for building the interior. Very light, very durable. Hope to meet you one day on the Old Silk Roads because this is your natural next step to take ;-)
I'll get there one day, but COVID is messing up all my plans right now!
Great video. Really looking forward to the end of this virus, so we can all get back onto the road!
Super helpful, I am in the process of modifying my vehicle in the next weeks and your advice came in time
Can't wait to find out where you are traveling next. And what vehicle!
Hi Dan. Suspension and weight is fairly easy to work around. I have a Nissan Patrol Ute and did a GVM upgrade. She is now rated at 3900kgs Max GVM. With a bit of fine tuning I have got a really comfortable ride. Yet with all my gear on the back ( my set up is very similar to yours ) and even when I hook up my caravan ( I live in this full time ) and have the additional 300kgs of tow ball weight ( caravan weighs in at 3000kgs ), I am well within GVM.
BTW. My ute is set up this way so I can leave the caravan behind and head off out back for weeks or months on end. 😁
Sounds like a great setup!
Also, with your weight, that 4.5 inches will settle some. My teraflec 3 inch lift with heavy duty overland springs settled.
I wanted to make a comment about your awning. I went on a week-long trip along the MABDR in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Granted the rear end is different as I have a hatch and you have a swinging door, but what I did was draped a tarp over the hatch while it was open and had some pre tied paracord at the different corners and a couple tent stakes to anchor it down. It gave me nice wrap around coverage at the back. It wasn't the quickest to set up or disassemble but it was extremely light and it did really well at keeping the weather out and maintaining privacy.
Nice and simple! That's something I'll investigate more for the next one for sure
@@TheRoadChoseMe maybe include a couple super light pipe type poles to create a dynamic "tent" at the rear.
Definitely agree about the high lift jack! If you didn't have a winch it would be a different story, but with the winch, the jack is more liability than asset!
Although the 2 items are indivisible, I'd put the third point ahead of the first one. Build the vehicle first, and build the suspension to match.
There are replacement axle upgrades for Wrangler, using a Dana 60 rear and full floating Dana 44 up front, so it's possible to go even heavier than you already have...which will use more fuel...
More EXCELLENT information to glean if/when I ever get my overlanding project started 😀
Thank you so much for sharing. I just purchased a low mileage 2001 Toyota Landcruiser Cygnus which is a right hand drive LX470. I am in the planning stages of an overland build for use in here in Canada and the US. I have a 97Landcruiser built for serious offroad use, so I have much to learn about building a overland vehicle. I plan on using an aluminum front bumper and skids to try to save on weight. Thanks for all of the great content.
Thanks for sharing!
Another great video. We had our flexible panels fail on our expedition to AK and are now converting to solid panels. I will also be installing a 270 awning on our Gladiator build. If you find a suspension manufacturer that has heavier (not necessarily taller) springs please let us know..
Great video - I’m reconsidering taking a hi-lift jack, winch, fitting diff-guards on my Land Rover re-build as a result of your helpful video - building-out the interior with light-weight aluminium/composite shelving to carry wolf-packs is the way I’m going, really thinking about the weight of everything. Looking forward to see your choice of vehicle for your next trip - looks like the vaccines are on their way, so hopefully, 2021 will allow everyone to get outside and travel a bit more
Excellent, Dan. It's refreshing to hear such a focus on weight, which has been the enemy in our vehicles when off-roading, in our flying, and in our sailing. Weight is often misconstrued as adding 'strength' when in fact its efficient engineering design and materials science that brings optimum strength while minimizing weight. Re: your 'next vehicle', how can you possibly say much about that without nailing down the conditions it must cope with? Waiting makes total sense. (Do we see an on-line auction coming some day...?)
I whole heartedly agree with the principal of weight management and being cognizant of GVWR, however I think the issues you were having have more to do with springs/shocks vs. vehicle weight. I don't really think that being slightly over (especially due to consumables such as food, water, fuel etc.) is a huge concern or means you have to give up handling , especially if you have to make compromises that impact your long term comfort, recoverability and peace of mind. I also subscribe to not building monster trucks for overlanding, and for my truck I upgraded to heavier springs which made the vehicle ride 2.5 - 3 inches total lift and I added racing shocks (King 2.0 in my case but any of the major brands will do) and it improves handling tremendously. I don't have the really expensive options such as clickers on the shocks, or bigger diameters etc., just the basic mid-travel shocks and the reservoir and increased shock oil volume help keep the oil cooler so you don't loose dampening and premature failure due to overheated shocks. For corrugations and general comfort, I let the tire do more of the work and I found with stiffer shocks, the tire pressure needs to come down. I have 34x10.5 tires on 17 in rims BFG KO2 and they do well for me. The truck rides firmer but with properly dialed in shocks it's still quite comfortable. I would think that would greatly reduce the poor handling and wallowing side to side feeling for your Jeep. I don't have a Jeep but if I did I would look at a coilover setup.
With regard to the hi-lift, I agree with your decision to ditch it if that's your choice, but I don't think safety is an issue if you are properly trained. It's such a versatile recovery tool, and I have been stuck in sand and water (river) where getting under the vehicle with a bottle jack would have been impossible. Again, I'm not criticizing your decision if you go that route, just saying the safety issues are predictable and I think the tool is safe in the proper hands. Also, I tried the exhaust air lift bag, and I found they are hard to position precisely and they tend to move as they inflate. On one occasion the air jack shifted from under the frame and ended up bending some of the quarter panels which was expensive to repair. Also they get quite dirty and you have to bring that in to your vehicle taking up space and adding dirt. I prefer the exterior mounted jack. The jeep can handle a reasonable amount of weight aft rear axle since the axles are so far back and there is little overhang/weight to begin with.
With the ARB awning, I have the longer one and it's side mounted on the vehicle. It's bolted to the truck and has held up well for me even hitting brush and light tree branches. I like the ARB for its lightness and I have the tent/room accessory that is bulky but comes in handy in insect infested areas or rain. For you it might be too bulky, but they also make a sheet than can block the side or multiple sides. I don't have one but I imagine they can be folded flat and stowed away for those times when you have wind, rain or sun coming from the side.
Regarding the solar panels, I see nothing wrong with trying other panels if you choose, however for your existing panels I would not think that small of additional profile would effect wind resistance or fuel economy unless you are at HWY speeds for extended periods. Also the frames are aluminum, so not much weight there either.
I admire your current build and it seems like one of the best in terms of well thought out choices, comfort, reliability etc.
Thank you for the excellent content.
Looking forward to your next build and trips!
Trust me - ME TOO!
This is pretty good information. It's on the money.
See you at Lake Baikal in July. Don't forget the mozzie spray and head net...... :-)
As always great and honest video, thanks for that! Please keep us updated on your weight reduction approach as this would be very interesting and challenging for all of us. Thanks mate
Will do!
Old man emu makes some great springs for over landing. They only offer about two inches of lift but they have multiple options of springs for a given setup. I’ve used them on two builds and have yet to get a wow that’s awesome from anybody but it works well for carrying weight.
Agree, they are one of the best in the industry for offering lifts that are based on weight, not height.
Thank you! Bottle jacks are military standard.
Corrugation? Great word. We use the term "washboard". I heard Canadians can now get into the States by using a loophole in the law. How? Have your Jeep shipped and then fly. Apparently there are companies that handle these details for people with motorhomes and flying into the States is not prohibited, just driving across the border. Anything to escape the snow.
I've heard about that too.
But personally, I'm super excited for the snow! That's why I choose to live here.
Consider narrow tires with forged wheels, 255/80/R17 (33 inches diameter) tires and 17 inches Method Race 703 trail series wheels, is very tough, lightweight and designed for the tire deflates down to 10psi without fear of tire "de-bead" (yes I know some people don't like forged/aluminum wheels for overlanding)
Edit: also consider full floating axle mod for the solid axle
Very informative and helpful . Thanks for sharing this great video . Hope to meet you out on some dirt track or road sometime . Cheers from Steve Stott in Sutherlin Oregon U.S.A.
I hope so too!
Thanks for another great video. I'm way excited to see what your building next and where you're going!
Chris Shontz of venture4wd overlands all over north America and has a VERY similar setup to yours. I recommend comparing notes with him on future setup ideas.
Cheers, we exchange emails all the time and look forward to meeting up as soon as we can!
I like AEV products. They're good for overlanding.
Dan - check out solar panels made by Lightleafsolar.com here in Saskatoon. Tough, light...2 kg for a 100 watt panel. I have a couple that I use with my fiberglass egg type trailer.
He is supplying panels for Escapod and other teardrop manufacturers and recently made some extremely large 1000 watt panels for Solarolla to use on an electric powered RV.
Thanks for the great advice, keep up the good video’s to us 👍🇳🇱❤️🇨🇦
When I drove around Australia and North America in a 1972 VW camper, camping for free, off-grid for 55-60% of the nights, and driving every other day, we never used a leisure battery. Our laptop, camera batteries and interior lighting ran from the vehicle battery. Never had an issue. Are leisure batteries essential?
With my fridge, water pump, UV lamp and big laptop and all my camera gear, I consider it essential for me. Others might not need it though.
I love your logic and insight to this hobby/lifestyle. You're unique in that your vehicle isn't loaded w 150k worth of sponsor crap. I love it. I do wonder why w all the talk of weight savings...why do you run steel wheels? Surely an alloy would be far lighter not only the ones rolling but also your spare.
In West Africa I wanted them to be indestructible, because replacements for a Jeep would be very hard to find. Elsewhere in the world I wouldn't run them.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Makes sense.
Brilliant video Dan 👍👍
What about adding side covers in the event of rain or other elements to your awning....it will take more time to set it up more than 270 awning,but its way lighter option...but you might have the same problem with 270 too...you have a great video on the topic from Andrew St.Pierre white...sun shifting during the day for instance...and its a way more expensive investment and its gunna add up your fuel consumption....just a thought to consider...
For sure sides are a thought, but of course I have to roll them up and store them somewhere...
If you are going to do the helium balloon thing, you might also consider letting some air out of your tires. Not sure how many square inches are in your tire, but multiply that times say 10psi lower tire inflation, and you may be talking about a substantial weight savings of unsprung weight. lol
I like the way you think! Maybe I'll get a pet bird as well, he can flap his wings and help carry some of the weight!
@@TheRoadChoseMe @5150lane Maybe just replace the air in the tires with helium while you're at it.
I think Hydrogen is even lighter! What could possibly go wrong!! haha
@@TheRoadChoseMe It's also cheaper than helium...
At my work (meteorology) we are running into issues with cost when launching weather balloons, and have looked into a few different hydrogen generators. IF we find one good/safe enough for dragging around in the field with the artillery I'll let you know lol.
Interesting analysis. For me Money would be high on the list. Any alteration to the vehicle or extra gadgets would chew up too much of my budget. The more things you have, the more things you have to keep an eye on and they can break down. Charles Lindbergh chose a light single engined aircraft as an engine failure wouldn´t be possible to survive anyway even if it had two or three engines. They were not reliable or powerful enough at the time to do anything positive for him. A second or even a third engine would multiply the risk of having a failure so it wasn´t worth it. Also you must be able to use the things you have (safely). A vehicle that have all things can´t do all things as it would be too heavy so weight and volume will always be a consideration. I rather take less recovery gear and omit a few adventures than have it all and just use it once. A simple matrix for positive and negative sides of every piece of gear can help out with the calculations: is this piece really necessary and what value does it give me? My outdoor activities have taught me to try have three different usages for each item. Things can be combined to achieve the same purpose. Thanks for a very informative and interesting channel!
Thanks for sharing your well-reasoned thoughts on this important topic. You have previously said saving time is not a high priority for making equipment selections -- so it's a little surprising you don't give more consideration to using a tarp instead of an awning.
I'm incorporating 1 inch thick-walled aluminum tubing into my roof rack so that up to two pairs of 1/2 x 36 inch rod can be extended out from the sides and back of my SUV for just that purpose. When rain is not a concern but sun and wind are, custom-fit shade cloth will do the job. For your setup similar materials could be devised, and save significant weight.
Absolutely, that's a great idea and something I will investigate for the next build!
Could do a bigger alternator and second battery depending on if you drive alot and don't sit
The high lift jack and bottle jack aren't really interchangeble. The bottle jack pretty much only works under the axle and it's often near impossible to deploy it when off road. If the ground is at all soft you will need a base for it, further reducing the height available under the axle. Their travel is limited so best to go for a telescopic design. It will need to be a low height design to fit under the axle with a flat tyre. I have a 4 tonne, low height, telescopic bottle jack but have never managed to use it off road.
The biggest failing of the high lift jack is the tendency to slip off which is incredibly dangerous. Make sure you carry the right adapter to use the official jacking points. I also have welded lugs at strategic points around the vehicle so the jack cannot slip sideways. If you need to jack the vehicle off road it's the only viable option in practice.
I agree with everything you said, I just don't think it's very likely I'll ever need to jack the vehicle off road...
Great information 👍👍👍
can prefer you the rhino rack Dome 1300 Awning. its small as your one but opened it covers a much bigger place.
Awesome videos
What do you think about just getting a lightweight UTV winch....2-3k pounds....maybe one that mounts to a hitch. It's not like we need to drive up a vertical well. A small tug, along with the wheel torque, should get you out of most situations, and it'd be nice to be able to put it out back for self recovery. Use a snatch block if you need more force.
I use a small 3000 pound chain hand winch. It is all we have ever needed. Almost every time I have been stuck, a front winch would have been totally useless anyway. Who wants to get more stuck? LOL
Thanks Dan. It is very helpful to hear what worked, what didn’t, and what you would do differently. I have heard before that the Jeep payload is a serious setback for it’s suitability as a global overlander. Maybe you will need to move to a vehicle with a higher payload?
I consider paylod the Wrangler's Achilles heel.
Great video. Safe travels 🤙
Thanks, you too!
Good content! Really helpful. Thanks for your video, Dan!
My pleasure!
Always useful Dan ! Thank you 🤙🏼
Sounds like a future build is in the future?
Yep, I'm hammering out the details now. I'll document the whole thing here when it gets underway
It occurs to me that you could mount solid solar panels to a roof-rack, and then make sure the roof-rack can be easily removed for shipping.
In theory yes, but it's a pain in the backside to have to do that at a shipping port, and then figure out where in the container you'll put the rack so it won't move around and damage the vehicle. I've seen people do it.
Make so much sense. Thanks!
Another great video! Thanks Dan.
If you buy a bottle jack, generally they will only work vertically, so look for one that will also operate horizontally, just in case. One concern I have with a bottle jack; it gets stored and ignored for long periods, so will its seal have aged and cause the jack to not be useable when I finally go to use it?
I'm not sure, though I'd be using mine every 6,000 miles at a minimum to do tire rotations.
Great content and insight as usual. Just curious, why not a Toyota? Unrivaled reliability and sold/serviced around the world. I have a 94 land cruiser since new and by far the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. Granted, a new one is ridiculously expensive but they’re 30 year vehicles at the minimum. Also, the 4Runner is another great option.
They work, though for where I was going in Africa there aren't really models sold in North America that transfer over there well. Also not the same amount of aftermarket support, popup roof, etc. etc.
As you said on the price too - I spent less on my Jeep PLUS all expenses all around Africa for three years than the price of a new land cruiser.
I once saw an airbag jack used, would that be an option?
Bottle jack is good idea, I share your experience with high lift jacks. My solution to that recovery&weight problem was to have Exhaust Jack Lifting Air Bag Kit. It could lift 5000 kg (11000 pounds) and was much lighter and safer than high lift jack. Just google it and you can find it anywhere. It packs small, light and can help overturning vehicles who can be found on their side at random places. Also when I had winch, I mounted it on bracket that I would connect with profile in profile connection and plug for electricity. I always had it inside the car, and I could mount it both in front and in back of the vehicle. There it was dry and clean and in perfect spot for weight. Also I could access it from all sides of the car and mount it where it was needed.
Yes, those are a good idea. The only risk is if your vehicle won’t start, they’re totally useless 🤷
@@solooverland3666 Then you still have the shovel and the bottle jack!
One thing I've often wondered is how people travel the world on motorbikes yet nearly everyone travelling by car tends to hit or exceed the manufacturer payload.
I suppose a lot has to do with comfort and convenience but I don't see many people driving with minimal gear.
When I drove AK-Argentina I met people on motorbikes that had more stuff than I had in my little 2-door Jeep! (I had my backpacking setup, and not much else!)
love your videos man!!
🖐
Thanks for the video Dan. About the awning... Here is an idea I like as an alternative to the expensive 270 degree awnings: ruclips.net/video/92S4Mh9z0xo/видео.html&ab_channel=BREAKFREE4X4 I think the original idea may have come from Australia. I think it's called a "Fred's arm". Not sure how the weight of the swingarm apparatus compares to the weight of a 270. Also not sure about the cost to fab one vs just buying a 270. But, I think it's a cool idea that I'm going to look at more myself. To me, it seems that if the awning ever got damaged on a trip, it would be easier (and cheaper) to replace a small ARB 2500-type awning than a full 270. Anyway, just sharing ideas.
I love your vehicle and your videos. Do you think you can make this crossing in the Democratic Republic of Congo as we did between Lubumbashi and Kinshasa? and in how long? thank you again for your videos
I would love to attempt that route, but I really have no idea how long it would take, how safe it is these days. etc. A lot of research would be required I think!
@@TheRoadChoseMe If one day you make up your mind, we are on the ground in Kinshasa and we will certainly do this crossing again.
Hâve you look at the Teraflex Outback lift kit? I have the 3’’ one and the support my jeep full form3 and a trailer with no issues.
I have not had a look yet, I will now!
@@TheRoadChoseMe Sorry for the fat finger syndrom reply loll I hade an othe lift kit. I just swap the control arm (not an obligation) and the coil spring. The spring are around 600$ installed. If you have a warm place to do it, it would be cheaper.
Great videos as usual!!!!
Could you please tell me what are the electrical and mechanical components that you had most issues with?
How easy was to find spare parts for your Jeep model in Africa and South America?
Cheers!
Actually, I never had a problem with any of them!
Jeep dealers are dotted around the continents, you just have to plan ahead to do services .
😎👍
Jack in lieu of a HiLift: Buy an ex army Hummer H1 M998 original scissor jack with tote bag.
Dude ( I don't know your name ) you have a great channel. Keep it up. And, Merry Christmas from Nebraska, spoken by a Utahan. (I'm attending law school at Creighton).
Thanks, you too! - my name is Dan by the way!
@@TheRoadChoseMe Dan. It's good to "meet" you. When I get done with law school, pay down the massive debt, I'm going to put together an old truck, and finally be cool like you Overlanders. Before school I worked in a bike shoppe for 15 years, raced professionally on the road, and was able to travel around the USA in pursuit of cycling goals. Traveling for bike racing has given me a taste of travel/exploration that I want to fulfill with a vehicle. Currently I am putting my nose to the grind in an attempt to build a foundation for my family. I'll eventually be able to explore with the advice from folks like you, and I'll do it near my fifties with my teenage children and wife. So far my kids are seven months, and four years. Thanks for the reply by the way, you have a gift of communication, and your channel is very good. I stumbled across it last night, and have watch several of them. Take care!
Cheers Bryce, all the best to you too!
Do you think that the 4.5in lift would make the jeep not fit in a shipping container anymore? Especially with those rigid solar panels
What’s the height limit of a container?
@Jason Floyd it's all covered in this one!
ruclips.net/video/nfXrj6J87Ts/видео.html
@Jake Schreiber - It would be close, but I think it would still fit. From memory it had about 4 inches clearance when I drove it in in Egypt.
Have you tested to see how much electricity/energy the panels are producing on a daily/weekly/monthly basis? I have no clue, but with my limited knowledge of that technology, I have wondered does the electrical output outweigh with the added weight and "worry" of one more piece of equipment to maintain/manage over the duration of an extended trip. What is the calculated benefit of a solar system compared to say an extra deep cell battery and say upgraded, aftermarket, performance out put, alternator?
The charge controller gives me all those stats, so yes I know exactly how much it makes.
For me, I will *always* have solar. I go into details here ruclips.net/video/L4_QWFYtTNs/видео.html
@@TheRoadChoseMe I watched it and that explained a lot. It makes sense to me know to have those. Especially permanently mounted to the roof.
Your info is amazing!! Thank you so much! Forgive me if I’ve missed the video...but what headlight upgrade did you use? Btw, really excited about your next expedition,,
I currently have TruckLite LSD headlights from Rigid, they're at least ten thousand times better than the stock lights
@@TheRoadChoseMe How did you find LED's in African dust? I've currently got 7" sealed beams (did have Cibie halogens but they filled with water in Africa) and they're not great. I'm glad I've got my Lightforce Striker LED spot lights to back them up, but they cause so much glare if there's the slightest bit of dust.
They were brilliant.
Simply from a weight standpoint, would you avoid a diesel?
Not because of weight, but if I were going internationally I'd certainly avoid a newer diesel - ruclips.net/video/YoxdojIpiGY/видео.html
Thanks for the info! Would you ever consider going without a winch? I have been on the fence myself about the added weight.
I drove to Argentina without one, and I never wanted one. But for West Africa I'm really happy I had it, and now I enjoy getting more and more remote likely I'll have one in the future
I was going to ask that as well. I've watched most of Dan's informative and entertaining vids but can't remember if he's using synth rope. I think I almost halved the weight of my winch by changing to synthetic rope and an alloy fairlead. If you keep it covered from the sun you won't get uv degredation and synth is very much safer, easy to splice if you do damage.
I have a little (decent) 4500lb towball mounted winch and an adapter for the front of my Defender. This means I can pull myself back the few feet from when I had grip or pull forward if required. It isn't a huge winch but has been able to pull me out a couple of times (using snatch block if required).
I teach 4x4 driving here in the UK but have yet to go anywhere exciting!
Video idea.. How I stay warm in a Jeep.
How can I get notified when you do post your Jeep for sale? I'm also in Canada.
... I have not made a hard decision on that yet, but IF I do, I'll post on my website, IG and FB and probably here too.
Really unsure about that right now.
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Regardless if you have a high lift or not you still have to have a jack and the factory ones are so cheesy and undependable and such a small footprint that they push right into any soft ground
Right, which is why I will carry a quality bottle jack, and something to use as a base so it doesn't push into the ground!
@@TheRoadChoseMe jack base plates can be used to help level the Jeep on uneven ground as well.
@@TheRoadChoseMe bonus feature of the high lift Jack is its excellent in deep mud it would suck to have to lay on your belly to put the Jack underneath the axle in a foot of mud
@Derrick's Adventures - No doubt the hi-lift has a ton of benefits and we can make a list as long as our arms.... but for me... from experience, I don't think it's worth the weight and hassle.
Is new Jeep JL rubicon 2L petrol automatic is enough good as your jeep?
MOST vehicles have the same problem, unless go go BIG, F250 and up.